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by  errata 
led  to 

ent 

une  pelure, 

fapon  d 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

32X 


A] 


ADYENTirEES  OF  CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE. 


PEOPLE'S  EDITION. 


I 

1 


"1 


1 


f- 


i 


THE 


ADVENTURES 


OF 


CAPTAIN  BONNEVILLE,  U.  S.  A. 


IN  THE 


ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  AND  THE  FAR  WEST. 


DIGESTED   FROM   HIS  JOURNAL   AND   ILLUSTRATED   FROM 
VARIOUS  OTHER  SOURCES 


BY 


WASHINGTON  IRVING. 


AUTHOR'S    REVISED    EDITION, 


COMPLETE  IN  ONE  VOLUME. 


NEW    YORK: 

G,  p.  PUTNAM'S  SONS, 

fOUBTH  AVENUE  AND  TWENTY-TUIRD  8TBECT. 


^y-V^iha'^ 


Entered  accorJing  Uj  Act  of  Congrcps,  in  the  >ear  18f»8,  by 

0.  I'.  Putnam  and  Son, 

In  <he  Clerk'8  Office  of  the  Di.-^tru-t  ('oui-t  for  thu  Southern  Diutrict  of 

New  York. 


1  "JZ. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 


rioi 


State  of  the  fur  tratlo  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  —  Amer- 
_^  ican  enterprises.  —  General  Asliley  and  his  asso- 
ciates.—  Sublette,  a  famous  leader.  —  Yearly  ren- 
dezvous ainonf?  the  mountains.  —  Stratagems  and 
dangers  of  the  trade.  —  Hands  of  trappers.  —  Indian 
banditti. — Crows  and  Blackleet. — l\Iountaineers. 

—  Traders  of  the  Far  West.  —  Character  and  habits 

of  the  trapper 27 

CHAPTER  n. 

Departure  from  Fort  Osage. — Modes  of  transportation. 

—  Pack-horses.  —  Wagons.  —  Walker  and  Cerr(J ; 
their  characters. —  Buoyant  feelings  on  launching 
upon  the  Prairies.  —  Wild  equipments  of  the  trap- 
pers.—  Their  gambols  and  antics. — Ditlerence  of 
character  between  the  American  and  Trench  trap- 
pers.—  Agency  of  the  Kansas.  —  General  Clarke. 

—  White  Plume,  the  Kansas  Chief — Night  sceno 
in  a  trader's  camp.  —  Colloquy  between  White 
Plume  and  the  Captain.  —  liee-hunters. — Their 
expeditions.  —  Their  feuds  with  the  Indians.  — 
Bargaining  talent  of  White  Plume    .        .        «        .39 


CHAPTER  HI. 

Wide  prairies.  — Vegetable  pfoductions.  —  Tabular  hills. 

—  Slabs  of  sandstone.  —  Nebraska  or  Platte  River. 

—  Scant}'  tare.  —  Bufialo  skidls.  —  Wagons  turned 


VI  CONTENTS. 


lAOl 


into  boats.  —  Herds  of  Buflfalo.  —  Cliffs  resembling 
castles.  —  The  Chimney.  —  Scott's  Blufis.  —  Story- 
connected  with  them.  —  The  bighorn  or  ahsahta,  — 
its  nature  and  habits.  —  Difference  between  that 
and  the  "  woolly  sheep,"  or  goat  of  the  mountains      60 

CHAPTER  IV. 

An  alarm.  —  Crow  Indians  —  their  appearance  —  mode 
of  approach —  their  vengeful  errand —  their  curios- 
ity. —  Hostility  between  the  Crows  and  Blackfeet, 

—  Loving  conduct  of  the  Crows. — Laramie's  Fork. 

—  First  navigation  of  the  Nebraska.  —  Great  eleva- 
tion of  the  country.  —  Rarity  of  the  atmosphere  —  its 
cflTect  on  the  wood-work  of  wagons.  —  Black  Hills 

—  their  wild  and  broken  scenery.  —  Indian  dogs. 

—  Crow  trophies.  —  Sterile  and  dreary  country.  — 
Banks  of  the  Sweet  Water.  —  Buffalo  hunting.  — 
Adventure  of  Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  cook  ...      69 

CHAPTER  V. 


Magnificent  scenery. — Wind  River  Mountains.  —  Treas- 
ury of  waters.  —  A  stray  horse.  —  An  Indian  trail. 

—  Trout  streams.  —  The  Great  Green  River  Valley. 

—  An  alarm.  —  A  band  of  trappers.  —  Fontenelle, 
his  information.  —  SuflTcrings  of  thirst.  — Encamp- 
ment on  the  Seeds-ke-dce.  —  Strategy  of  riv^l 
traders.  —  Fortification  of  the  camp.  —  The  Black- 
feet.  —  Banditti  of  the  mountains.  —  Their  charac- 
ter and  habits 72 

CHAPTER  VL 

Sibletto  and  his  band.  —  Robert  Campbell.  —  Mr. 
Wyeth  and  a  bund  of  "  Down-easters."  —  Yankee 
enterprisp.  —  Fitzpatrick  —  his  adventure  with  the 
Blackfeet.  —  A  rendezvous  of  mountaineers.  —  The 
battle  of  Pierre's  Hole.  — An  Indian  ambuscade. — 
Sublette's  return 88 


•^^^' 


CONTENTS, 


vii 


lAttl 


CHAPTER  VII. 


mbling 
■  Story 
hta,— 
m  that 
intaias 


-mode 
curios- 
ickfeet, 
s  Fork. 
t  eleva- 
re  —  its 
k  IlilU 
ti  dogs, 
titry.  — 
ting.  — 


rioB 


Treaa- 

in  trai'. 

[Valley. 

tenelle, 

|ncamp- 

if  rivTil 

Black- 

iharac- 


l  —  Mr. 
\inkee 
ith  the 
I— The 
lade.  — 


60 


59 


7a 


83 


Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet.  —  Fontenelle's  camp  in  dan- 
ger. —  Captain  Bonneville  and  the  Blackfeet.  — 
Free  trappers —  their  character,  habits,  dress,  equip- 
ments, horses.  —  Game  fellows  of  the  ir  untains  — 
their  visit  to  the  camp.  —  Good  fell  /ship  and 
good  cheer.  —  A  carouse.  —  A  swagger,  a  brawl, 
and  a  reconciliation 100 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Plans  for  the  winter.  —  Salmon  River. —  Abundance  of 
salmon  west  of  the  mountains.  —  New  arrange- 
ments. —  Caches.  —  Cerrd's  detachment.  —  Move- 
ments in  Fontenelle's  camp.  —  Departure  of  the 
Blackfeet— their  fortunes. — Wind  Mountain  streams. 
—  Buckeye,  the  Delaware  hunter,  and  the  grizzly 
bear.  —  Bones  of  murdered  travellers.  —  Visit  to 
Pierre's  Hole.  —  Traces  of  the  battle.  —  Nez  Perc6 
Indians.  —  Arrival  at  Salmon  River . 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Horses  turned  loose.  —  Preparations  for  win  tor- quarters. 
—  Hungry  times. —  Nez  Percys,  their  honesty,  piety, 
pacific  habits,  religious  ceremonies.  —  Captain  Bon- 
neville's conversations  with  tliem.  —  Their  love  of 
gambling 

CHAPTER   X. 

Blackfeet  in  the  Horse  Prairie.  —  Search  after  the  hun- 
ters. —  Difficulties  and  dangers.  —  A  card  party  in 
the  wilderness.  —  The  card  party  interrupted. — 
"  Old  Sledge,"  a  losing  game.  —  Visitors  to  the 
camp. —  Iroquois  hunters. —  Hanging-eared  Indians. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Rival  trapping  parties.  —  Maneuvering.  —  A  desperate 
game.  —Vanderburgh  and  the  Blackfeet. — Deserted 


107 


117 


121 


Viil  CONTENTS. 


PAOB 


camp  fire.  —  A  dark  defile. — An  Indian  ambush.  — 
A  fierce  mel^e.  —  Fatal  consequences.  —  Fitzpatrick 
and  Bridger.  —  Trappers'  precautions.  —  Meeting 
with  the  Blackfeet.  —  More  fighting.  —  Anecdote 
of  a  young  Mexican  and  an  Indian  girl  •        .        .    129 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  winter  camp  in  the  wilderness.  —  !Medley  of  trappers, 
hunters,  and  Indians.  —  Scarcity  of  game.  —  New 
arrangements  in  the  camp.  —  Detachments  sent  to 
a  distance.  — Carelessness  of  the  Indians  when  en- 
camped. —  Sickness  among  the  Indians.  —  Excellent 
character  of  the  Nez  Percc^^s. —  The  Captain's  effort 
as  a  pacificator.  — A  >^ez  Percy's  argument  in  fa- 
vor of  war.  —  Robberies  by  the  Blackfeet.  —  Long 
suffering  of  the  Nez  Percys.  —  A  hunter's  elysiura 
among  the  mountains.  —  More  robberies.  —  The 
Captain  preaches  up  a  crusade.  —  The  effect  upon 
his  hearers        ........    137 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
Story  of  Kosato,  the  renegade  Blackfoot 

CHAPTER  XIV. 


The  party  enters  the  mountain  gorge.  —  A  wild  fast- 
ness among  the  bills.  —  Mountain  mutton.  —  Peace 
and  plenty.  —  The  ar..orous  trapper. —  A  piebald 
wedding.  —  A  free  trapper's  wife  —  her  gala  equip- 
ments. —  Christmas  ia  the  wilderness      .        . 


0 


-    153 


Me< 


1»7 


"\ 


CHAPTER  XV. 

hunt  after  hunters.  —  Hungry  times.  —  A  voracious 
repast.  —  Wintry  weather.  —  Godin's  River.  — 
Splendid  winter  scene  on  the  great  lava  plain  of 
Snake  River.  —  Severe  travelling  and  tramping  in 
the  snow.  —  Maneuvers  of  a  solitary  Irulian  liorse- 


Pre< 


CONTENTS, 


IX 


man.  —  Encampment  on  Snake  River.  —  Banneck 
Indians.  —  The  Horse  chief —  his  charmed  life 


PAGV 


165 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Misadventures  of  Matthieu  and  his  party.  —  Return  to 
the  caches  at  Salmon  River.  —  Battle  between  Nez 
Percys  and  Blackfeet. — Heroism  of  a  Nez  Perc^ 
woman  —  enrolled  among  the  braves       .       -        .    170 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Opening  of  the  caches.  —  Detachments  of  Cerr^  and 
Hodgkiss.  —  Salmon  River  Mountains.  —  Supersti- 
tion of  an  Indian  trapper.  —  Godiu's  River. —  Prepa- 
rations for  trapping. — An  alarm.  —  An  interrup- 
tion. —  A  rival  band.  —  Phenomena  of  Snake  River 
Plain. — Vast  clefts  and  chasms. — Ingulfed  streams. 
—  Sublime  scenery. — A  grand  buffalo  hunt  .        • 


185 


CHAPTER  XVHI. 

Meeting  with  Hodgkiss.  —  Misfortunes  of  the  Nez  Per- 
cys. —  Schemes  of  Kosato,  the  renegado  —  his  foray 
into  the  Horse  Prairie.  —  Invasion  of  Hlackfcet.  — 
Blue  John,  and  his  forlorn  hope  —  their  generous 
enterprise  —  their  fate.  —  Constemation  and  despair 
of  the  village.  —  Solemn  obsequies.  —  Attempt  at 
Indian  trade. — Hudson's  Bay  Company's  monopoly. 
—  Arrangements  for  autumn.  —  Breaking  up  of  an 
encampment 195 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Precautions  in  dangerous  defiles.  —  Trappers'  mode  of 
defense  on  a  prairie. —  A  mysterious  visitor.  —  Ar- 
rival in  Green  River  Valley.  —  Adventures  of  the 
detachments.  —  The  forlorn  partisan  —  his  tale  of 
disasters    


107 


■ 

'I 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Gathering  in  Green  River  Valley.  —  Visitings  and  feast- 
ings  of  leaders.  —  Rough  wassailing  among  the  trap- 
pers.—  Wild  blades  of  tlie  mountains.  —  Indian 
belles.  —  Potency  of  bright  beads  and  red  blankets. 

—  Arrival  of  supplies.  —  Revelry  and  extravagance. 

—  Mad  wolves.  —  The  lost  Indian    •        .        .        . 


PAQl 


21B 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Schemes  of  Captain  Bonneville.  —  The  Great  Salt  Lake. 
—  Expedition  to  explore  it. —  Preparations  for  a 
journey  to  the  Bighorn 220 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Crow  country.  —  A  Crow  paradise.  —  Habits  of  the 
Crows.  —  Anecdotes  of  Rose,  the  renegade  white 
man  —  his  figlits  with  the  Blackfeet  —  his  elevation 
—  his  death.  —  Arapooish,  the  Crow  chief — his 
eagle.  —  Adventure  of  Robert  Campbell.  —  Honor 


among  Crows 


225 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Departure  from  Green  River  Valley.  —  Popo  Agie  —  its 
course  —  the  rivers  into  which  it  runs. —  Scenery  of 
the  Bluffs. --Tho  great  Tar  Spring. — Volcanic 
tracts  in  the  Crow  country.  —  Burning  mountain 
of  Powder  River.  —  Sulphur  s])rings.  —  Hidden 
fires.  —  Colter's  Hell.  —  Wind  River.  —  Campbell's 
party.  —  Fitzpatrick  and  his  trappers.  —  Captain 
Stewart,  an  amateur  traveller.  —  Nathaniel  Wyeth 

—  anecdotes  of  his  expedition  to  the  Ear  West. — 
Disaster  of  Campbell's  party.  —  A  union  of  bands. 

—  The  Bad  Pass.  —  The  rapids.  —  Departure  of 
Fitzpatrick.  —  Embarkation  of  peltries.  —  Wyeth 
and  iiis  bull  boat.  —  Adventures  of  Captain  Bon- 
neville in  tho  Bighorn  Mountains.  —  Adventures  in 
the  plain.  —  Traces  of   Indians.  --Travelling  pre- 


CONTENTS,  ^ 

PAQI 

cautions.  —  Dangors  of  making  a  smoke.  —  The 
rendezvous 234 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Adventures  of  the  party  of  ten.  -.-  The  Balaamite  mule. 

—  A  dead  point.  —  The  mysterious  elks.  —  A  night 
attack.  —  A  retreat.  —  Travelling  under  an  alarm. 

—  A  joyful  meeting.  —  Adventures  of  the  other  par- 
ty. — A  decoy  elk.  —  Retreat  to  an  island.  —  A  sav- 
age dance  of  triumph.  —  Arrival  at  Wind  River      .    246 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Captain  Bonneville  sets  out  for  Green  River  Valley.  — 
Journey  up  the  Popo  Agie.  —  Buffaloes.  —  The  star- 
ing white  bears.  —  The  smoke.  —  The  warm  springs. 

—  Attempt  to  traverse  the  Wind  River  Mountains. 

—  The  Great  Slope.  —  Mountain  dells  and  chasms. 

—  Crj'stal  lakes.  —  Ascent  of  a  snowy  peak.  —  Sub- 
lime prospect.  —  A  panorama.  — ''  Lea  dignes  de 
pitie,"  or  wild  men  of  the  mountains 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

A  retrograde  move.  —  Channel  of  a  mountain  torrent.  — 
Alpine  scenery.  —  Cascades. — Beaver  valleys. — 
Beavers  at  work  —  their  architecture  —  their  modes 
of  felling  trees.  — Mode  of  trapping  beaver.  —  Con- 
tests of  skill.  —  A  beaver  "  up  to  trap."  —  Arrival 
at  the  Green  River  caches 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Boute  towards  Wind  River.  —  Dangerous  neighbor- 
hood.—  Alarms  and  precautions.  —  A  sham  en- 
campment.—  Apparition  of  an  Indian  spy.  —  Mid- 
night move.  —  A  mountain  defile.  —  The  Wind 
River  Valley.  —  Tracking  a  party.  —  Deserted 
camps.  —  Symptoms  of  Crows.  —  Meeting  of  com- 
ra(?es.  —  A  trapper  entrapped.  —  Crow  pleasaD';ry. 


253 


263 


in 


l    I 


zu 


CONTENTS. 


PA<}| 


—  Crow  spies.  —  A  decampment.  —  Return  to  Green 
River  Valle'-.—  Meeting  with  Fitzpatrick's  party  — 
tiieir  adventures  among  the  Crows.  —  Orthodox 
Crows 271 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

region  of  natural  cariosities.  —  Tlie  plain  of  white 
clay.  —  Hot  springs.  —  The  Beer  Spring.  —  De- 
parture to  seek  the  free  trappers.  —  Plain  of  Port- 
neuf.  —  Lava.  —  Chasms  and  gullies.  —  Ranneck 
Indians  —  their  hunt  of  the  buffalo.  —  Hunters* 
feast.  — Trencher  hen  =?.  —  Bullying  of  an  absent 
foe.  —  The  damp  comrade.  —  The  Indian  spy. — 
Meeting  with  Ilodgkiss — his  adventures.  —  Poor- 
devil  Indians.  —  Triumph  of  the  Bannocks.  —  Black- 
feet  policy  in  war 284 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  camp  at  tbe  Portneuf.  —  Fine  springs.  —  The 
Banneck  Indians  —  their  honesty.  —  Captain  Bon- 
nevilla  prepare?  k)r  an  expedition.  —  Christmas.  — 
The  American  Falls.  —  Wild  scenery.  —  Fishing 
Falls.  —  Snake  Indians.  —  Scenery  on  the  Bruneau. 
—  View  of  volcanic  country  fiom  a  mountain. — 
Powder  River.  —  Shosliokoes,  or  Root  Diggers  — 
their  character,  habits,  habitations,  dogs.  —  Vanity 
at  its  last  shift 296 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Temperature  of  the  climate.  —  Root  Diggers  on  horse- 
back. —  An   Indian  guide.  —  Mountain    prospects. 

—  The  Grand  Rnnd.  —  DilKculties  on  Snake  River. 

—  A  scramble  over  the  Blue  Mountains.  —  Suffer- 
ings from  hunger.  —  I'ruppect  of  the  Imnmhah  Val- 
lev.  —  The  exhausted  traveller  .        .        • 


309 


CONTENTS.  Xlil 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

PAai 

Progress  in  tho  valley.  —  An  Inuim  cavalier.  —  The 
Captain  falls  into  a  lethargy.  —  A  Ncz  Perec?  pa- 
triarch. —  Hospitable  treatment.  —  The  bald  head. 
—  BargrJninjf.  —  Value  of  an  old  plaid  cloak. — 
The  ftijnily  horse.—  The  cost  of  an  Indian  present    320 

CHAPTER  XXXH. 

J^ez  Percd  camp.  —  A  chief  with  a  hard  name.  —  The 
]Jig  Hearts  of  the  cast.  —  Hospitable  treatment.  — 
The  Indian  guides.  —  Mysterious  councils.  —  The 
loquacious  chief.  —  Indian  tomb.  —  Grand  Indian 
reception.  —  An  Indian  feast.  —  Town  criers.  — 
Honesty  of  the  Nez  Perc<f's. —  The  Captain's  attempt 
at  healing 329 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Scenery  of  the  "NYay-lee-way.  —  A  substitute  for  tobac- 
co. —  Sublime  scenery  of  Snake  River.  —  The  gar- 
rulous old  chief  and  iiis  cousin. — A  Nez  Perc^ 
meeting.  —  A  stolon  skin.  —  The  scapegoat  dog.  — 
Mysterious  conferences.  —  The  little  chief.  —  His 
hospitality.  —  The  Captain's  account  of  the  United 
States.  —  His  healing  skill 


341 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah  —  its  commander.  —  Indians  in 
its  neighborhood. —  Exertions  of  Mr.  Pambrune  for 
their  improvement.  —  Religion.  —  Code  of  laws.  — 
Range  of  the  Lower  Nez  Percds.  —  Camash,  and 
other  roots.  —  Nez  Perct?  horses.  —  Preparations  for 
departure.  —  Refusal  of  supplies.  —  Departure.  — 
A  laggard  and  glutton 

CHAPTER  XXX\. 

The  uninvited  guest.  —  Free  and  easy  manners.  —  Sal- 
utary jokes. —  A  prodigal  son — Exit  of  the  glut- 


'>tl 


353 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


PA«I 


II 


ton. —  A  fiuddcc  change  in  fortune.  —  Danger  of  a 
visit  to  peer  relations. — Plucking  of  a  prosperous 
man.  —  A  vagabond  toilet.  —  A  substitute  for  the 
very  fine  horse.  —  I 'aid  travelling.  —  The  uninvited 
guest  and  the  patriarchal  colt.  —  A  beggar  on  horse- 
back.—A  catastrophe.  —  Exit  of  the  merry  vaga- 
bond  

CHAPTER   XXXVI. 


363 


The  difficult  m«  Jintain.  — A  smoke  and  consultation.  — 
The  Captain's  speech.  — An  icy  turnpike.  —  Danger 
of  a  false  step.  —  Arrival  on  Snake  River.  —  Return 
to  Portueuf.  —  Meeting  of  comrades        .        .  371 

CHAPTER  XXX vir. 

Departure  for  the  rendezvous.  —  A  war  party  of  Black- 
feet. —  A  mock  bustle.  —  Sham  fires  at  night.— 
Warlike  precautions.  —  Dangers  of  a  night  attack. 
—  A  panic  among  horses.  —  Cautious  march.  — 
The  Beer  Springs.  —  A  mock  carousal. —  Skirmish- 
ing with  buflaloes.  —  A  buH'alo  bait. — Arrival  at 
the  rendezvous.  —  Meeting  of  various  bands   .        •    379 


I       A 


CHAPTER  XXXVHI. 

Plan  of  the  Salt  Lake  expedition.  —  Great  sandy  des- 
erts. —  SutTerings  from  thirst.  —  Ogden's  River.  — 
Trails  and  smoke  of  lurking  savages.  —  Thefts  at 
night.  —  A  trapper's  revenge.  —  Alarms  of  a  guilty 
conscience.  —  A  murderous  victory.  —  Californian 
mountains.  —  Plains  along  the  Pacific.  —  Arrival  at 
Monterey  —  account  of  the  place  and  neighborhood. 

—  Lower  California  —  its  extent.  —  The  peninsula 

—  soil  —  climate  —  production.  —  Its  settlemen"^  by 
the  Jesuits  —  their  sway  over  the  Indians  —  their 
expulsion.  —  Ruins  of  a  Missionary  establishment. 

—  Sublime  scenery.  —  Upper  California.  —  Missions 


De 


kr, 


CONTENTS, 


XV 


PAOI 


of  a 
irous 
r  the 
vited 
orse- 
raga- 


S63 


:>n. — 
anger 
letura 


371 


Black- 
5ht.— 
It  tack, 
rch.  — 
•inish- 
val  at 


379 


des- 
yer.  — 

jfti  at 
Iguilty 
lorniaa 
lival  at 
irhood. 

unsula 

iu^  by 
their 

liment. 

issions 


rAai 

—  their  power  and  policy.  —  Resources  of  tie  coun- 

tiy.  —  Designs  of  foreign  nations      •        •  •    885 

CiIAPTER  XXXIX. 

G&y  life  at  Monterey.  —  Mexican  horsemen.  —  A  bold 
dragoon.  —  Use  of  the  lasso.  —  Vaqueros.  —  Noos- 
ing a  bear.  —  Fight  between  a  bull  and  a  bear.  — 
Departure  from  Monterey. — Indian  horse-slealers. 

—  Outrages  committed  by  the  travellers.  —  Indig- 
nation of  Captain  Bonneville 397 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Travellers'  tales. — Indian  lurkers.— Prognostics  of  Buck- 
eye. —  Signs  and  portents.  —  The  medicine  wolf.  — 
An  alarm.  —  An  ambush.  —  The  captured  provant. 
—  iriumph  of  liuckej'e.  —  Arrival  of  supplies.  — 
Grand  carouse.  — Arraiiirements  for  the  vear.  —  Mr. 
Wyeth  and  his  new  levied  band        .... 


CHAPTER  XLI. 
A  yoyage  in  a  bull  boat  -,        .        .        , 


403 


410 


^  CHAPTER  XLII. 

Departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  for  the  Columbia.  — 
Advance  of  \V'yeth.  —  Eflbrts  to  keep  the  lead.  — 
Hudson's  Bay  party.  —  A  junketing.  —  A  delectable 
beverage.  —  Honey  and  alcohol.  —  High  carousing. 

—  The  Canadian  ban  vmrnt.  —  A  cache. —  A  rapid 
move.  —  Wyeth  and  his  plans.  —  Ills  travelling 
companions.  —  Buflalo  hunting. — More  convivial- 
ity. —  An  interruption 

CHAPTER  XLIII. 

k  rapid  march.  —  A  cloud  of  dust.  —  Wild  horsemen.  — 
"High  jinks."  —  Ilorse-racing  and  rifle   shooting. 

—  The  game  of  "  Hand."  —  The  fishing  season.  — 


432 


xvi 


CONTENTS, 


PAGl 

Mode  of  fisbinp. —  Table  lands.  —  Salmon  fishers. 

—  The  Captain's  visit  to  an  fndian  lodge.  —  The  In- 
dian girl.  —  The  pocket  mirror.  —  Supper —  Trou- 
bles of  an  evil  conscience 440 

CHAPTER   XLlv. 

Outfit  of  a  trapper.  —  Risks  to  which  ho  is  subjected.— 
I'artnership  of  trappers.  —  Enmity  of  Indians. — 
Distant  smoke.  —  A  country  on  fire.  —  Gun  Creek. 

—  Grand  Rond.  —  Fine  pastures.  —  Perplexities  in 

a  smoky  country.  —  Conflagration  of  forests    .        .    449 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

The  Skynscs — their  trafhc — hunting  —  food  —  horses. 

—  A  horse-race.  —  Devotional  feelings  of  the 
Skynses,  Nez  Percys,  and  Flatheads.  —  Prayers.  — 
Exhortations.  —  A  preacher  on  horseback.  —  Effect 
of  religion  on  the  manners  of  the  tribes.  —  A  new 
light 456 


CHAPTER  XLVI. 

Scarcity  in  the  camp.  — Refusal  of  supplies  by  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company.  —  Conduct  of  the  Indians.  — 
A  hungry  retreat. — John  Day's  River.  —  The  Blue 
Mountains.  —  Salmon  fishing  on  Snake  River.  — 
Messengers  from  the  Crow  country.  —  Bear  River 
Valley.  —  Immense  migration  of  buflalo. —  I>»iiger 
of  buffalo  hunting. —  A  wounded  Indian.  —  Eutaw 
Indians.  —  A  "  surround  "  of  antelopes    .        .        . 

CHAPTER  XLVII. 

A.  festive  winter.  —  Conversion  of  the  Shoshonies.  —Visit 
of  two  free  trappers.  —  Gayety  in  the  camp. — A 
touch  of  the  tender  passion.— The  reclaimed  squaw. 
—  An  Indian  fine  lady.  — An  elopement.  —  A  pur- 
suit. —  Market  value  of  a  bad  wife  .        •       .        • 


463 


473 


CONTENTS. 


xvH 


VAOI 


re. 
n- 

)U- 


.    440 


PAU 


CHAPTER  XLVIII. 


BrtAking  up  of  winter  quarters.  —  Move  to  Green  River. 

—  A  trappe;  and  liis  riHo. —  An  arrival  in   camp. 

—  A  free  trapper  and  hi.s  squaw  in  distress.  —  Story 

of  a  Bluckl'oul  buUu 480 


cck. 
3  in 


.    449 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 

K  rendezvous  at  Wind  River.  —  Campaign  of  Monfcro 
and  his  brigade  in  the  Crow  country.  —  Wars  be- 
tM-een  the  Crows  and  Blackteet.  —  Death  of  Ara- 
pooish.  —  Blackfeet  lurkers. — Sagacity  of  the  horse. 
—  Dependence  of  tlie  hunter  on  his  horse.  — Return 
to  the  settlements 487 


jrses. 
tho 
rs.  — 
Effect 
L  new 


.    456 


APPENDIX. 

Mr.  Wyeth,  and  the  trade  of  tlie  Far  West  .  .  .497 
Wreck  of  a  Japanese  juidc  on  tlie  Noiihwest  coast  .  502 
InBtriictions  to  Captain  Bonneville  from  the  Major-Gen- 

eral  commanding  the  Army  of  the  United  States    .    503 


Hud- 

ins.  — 
Blue 

rer.  — 

River 

iger 

lEutaw 


.    463 


-Visit 


P 


—  A 


[squavr. 
•  Apur- 


473 


INTRODUCTORY    NOTICE. 


IITLE  engaged  in  writing  nn  account  of 
the  grand  enterprise  of  Astoria,  it  was 
my  practice  to  seek  all  kinds  of  oral  in- 
(biiiiution  connected  with  the  subject.  Nowhere 
did  I  pick  up  more  interesting  particulars  than  at 
ihe  table  of  Mr.  Johii  Jacob  Astor ;  who,  being 
the  patriarch  of  the  Fur  Trade  in  the  United 
States,  was  accustou^ed  to  have  at  his  board  va- 
rious persons  of  adventurous  turn,  some  of 
whom,  iiad  been  engaged  in  iiis  own  great  under- 
taking ;  others,  on  tiieir  own  accvnuit,  had  made 
expeditions  to  tlie  Rocky  Mountains  and  the 
waters  of  the  Columbia. 

Among  these  personages,  one  who  peculiarly 
took  my  fancy,  was  Captain  Bonnkville,  of  the 
United  States  army ;  who,  in  a  rambling  kind  of 
enterprise,  had  strangely  ingrafted  the  trapper 
and  hunter  upon  the  soldier.  As  his  expeditions 
and  adventures  will  form  the  leading  theme  of 
the  following  pages,  a  few  biographical  particulars 
concerning  him  may  not  be  unacceptable. 

Captain  Bonneville  is  of  French  parentage. 
His  father  was  a  worthy  old  emigrant,  who  came 
to  this  country  many  years  since,  and  took  up  his 


20 


INTRODVC    ')RY  NOTICE. 


b  1 1 


abode  in  New  York.  He  Is  represented  as  a 
man  not  much  calculated  for  the  sordid  struggle 
of  a  money-making  world,  but  possessed  of  a 
happy  temperament,  a  festivity  of  imagination, 
and  a  simplicity  of  heart,  that  made  him  proof 
against  its  rubs  and  trials.  He  was  an  excellent 
scholar;  well  acquainted  with  Latin  and  Greek, 
and  fond  of  the  modern  classics.  His  book  was 
liis  elysium  ;  once  immersed  in  the  pages  of  Vol- 
taire, Corneille,  or  Racine,  or  of  liis  favorite  Eng- 
glish  author,  Shakespeare,  he  forgot  the  world  and 
all  its  concerns.  Often  would  he  be  seen  in  sum- 
mer weather,  seated  under  one  of  the  trees  on 
the  Battery,  or  the  portico  of  St.  Paul's  Church 
in  Broadway,  his  bald  head  uncovered,  liis  hat 
lying  by  his  side,  his  eyes  riveted  to  the  page  of 
his  book,  and  his  whole  soul  so  engaged,  as  to 
lose  all  consciousness  of  the  passing  throng  or 
the  passing  hour. 

Captain  Bonneville,  it  will  be  found,  inherited 
something  of  his  father's  bonhomime,  and  his  ex- 
citable imagination  ;  though  the  latter  was  some- 
what disciplined  in  early  years,  by  mathematical 
studies.  He  was  educated  at  our  national  mili- 
tary Academy  at  West  Point,  where  he  acquitted 
himself  very  creditably;  thence,  he  entered  the 
army,  in  which  he  has  ever  since  continued. 

Tiie  nature  of  our  military  service  took  him  to 
the  frontier,  where,  for  a  number  of  years,  he 
was  stationed  at  various  posts  in  the  Far  West. 
Here  he  was  brought  into  frequent  intercourse 
with  Indian  traders,  mountain  trappers,  and  other 
pioneers  of  the  wilderness ;  and  became  so  excited 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


21 


by  their  tales  of  wild  scenes  and  wild  adventures, 
and  their  accounts  of  vast  and  maiji^nificent  re- 
pious  as  yet  unexplored,  that  an  expedition  to  the 
Rocky  Moiuitains  became  the  ardent  desire  of  his 
heart,  and  an  enterprise  to  explore  untrodden 
tracts,  the  leading  object  of  his  ambition. 

By  degrees  he  shaped  tiiis  vague  day-dream 
into  a  practical  reality.  Havii^g  made  himself 
acquainted  with  all  the  requisites  for  a  trading 
enterprise  beyond  the  mountains,  he  determitied 
to  undertake  it.  A  leave  of  absence,  and  a  sanc- 
tion of  his  expedition,  was  obtained  from  the 
major-general  in  chief,  on  his  offering  to  combine 
public  utility  with  his  private  projects,  and  to 
collect  statistical  information  for  the  War  Depart- 
ment, concerning  the  wild  countries  and  wild 
tribes  he  might  visit  in  the  course  of  his  journey- 


mgs. 


Nothing  now  was  wanting  to  the  darling  pro- 
ject of   the  captain,   but    the    ways  and    means. 
The  expedition  would   require  an  outfit  of  many 
thousand  dollars ;  a  staggering  obstacle  to  a  sol- 
dier, whose  capital  is  seldom  anything  more  than 
his  sword.      Full  of  that  buoyant  hope,  however, 
which  belongs  to  the  sanguine  temperament,  he 
repaired  to  New  York,  the  great  focus  of  Ameri 
can    enterprise,    where    there  are    always    funds 
ready  for  any  scheme,  however  chimerical  or  ro 
mantic.      Here  he  had  the  good   fortune  to  meet 
with  a  gentleman  of  high  n^spectability  and   in 
rluencc,  who  had   been   his  associate  in  boyhood, 
and  who  cherished  a  school-fellow  friendship  for 
him.     He  took  a  general  interest  in  the  scheme 


W' 


11<>I 


22 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


of  the  captain ;  introduced  him  to  commercial 
men  of  his  acquaintance,  and  in  a  little  while  an 
association  was  formed,  and  the  necessary  funds 
were  raised  to  carry  the  proposed  measure  into 
effect.  One  of  the  most  efficient  persons  in  this 
association  was  Mr.  Alfred  Seton,  who,  when  quite 
a  youth,  had  accompanied  one  of  the  expeditions 
sent  out  by  Mr.  Astor  to  his  commercial  estab- 
lishments on  the  Columbia,  and  had  distinguislied 
himself  by  his  activity  and  courage  at  one  of  the 
interior  posts.  Mr.  Seton  was  one  of  the  Amer- 
ican youths  who  were  at  Astoria  at  the  time  of 
its  surrender  to  the  British,  and  who  manifested 
such  grief  and  indignation  at  seeing  the  flag  of 
their  country  hauled  down.  The  hope  of  seeing 
that  flag  once  more  planted  on  the  shores  of  the 
Columbia,  may  have  entered  into  his  motives  for 
engaging  in  the  present  enterprise. 

Thus  backed  and  provided,  Captain  Bonneville 
undertook  his  expedition  into  the  Far  West,  and 
was  soon  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Year 
after  year  elapsed  without  his  return.  The  term 
of  his  leave  of  absence  expired,  yet  no  report  was 
made  of  him  at  head-quarters  at  Washington. 
He  was  considered  virtually  dead  or  lost,  and  his 
nrme  was  stricken  from  the  army  list. 

It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1835,  at  the  country 
seat  of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  at  Ilellgate,  that  I 
first  met  with  Captain  Bonneville.  He  was  then 
just  returned  from  a  residence  of  upwards  of 
tlu'ee  years  among  the  mountains,  and  was  on 
his  way  to  report  himself  at  head-quarters,  in  the 
Uopes  of  being  reinstated   in  the  service.     From 


u 


■■']  II 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


23 


mitry 
Ihat  I 

then 
IS  of 
IS  on 
II  the 

'rora 


nil  that  I  could  learn,  \\\^  wanderings  in  the  wil- 
derness, though  they  had  gratified  his  curiosity 
and  his  love  of"  adventure,  had  not  much  bene- 
fited his  fortunes.  Like  Corporal  Trim  in  his 
ctirapaigns,  he  had  "  satisfied  the  sentiment,"  and 
that  was  all.  In  fact,  he  was  too  much  of  the 
frank,  free-hearted  soldier,  and  had  inherited  too 
much  of  his  father*s  temperament,  to  make  a 
scheming  trapper,  or  a  thriCty  bargainer.  There 
was  something  in  the  whole  appearance  of  the 
captain  that  prepossessed  me  in  his  favor.  He 
was  of  the  middle  size,  well  made  and  well  set ; 
and  a  military  frock  of  foreign  cut,  that  had  seen 
service,  gave  him  a  look  of  compactness.  His 
countenance  was  frank,  open,  and  engaging ;  well 
browned  by  the  sun,  and  had  something  of  a 
French  expression.  He  had  a  pleasant  black  eye, 
a  high  forehead,  and  while  he  kept  his  hat  on, 
the  look  of  a  man  in  the  jocund  prime  of  his 
days ;  but  the  moment  his  head  was  uncovered,  a 
bald  crown  gained  him  credit  for  a  few  more 
years  than  he  was  really  entitled  to. 

Being  extremely  cuiious,  at  the  time,  about 
everything  connected  with  the  Far  West,  I  ad- 
dressed numerous  questions  to  him.  They  drew 
from  him  a  number  of  extremely  striking  details, 
which  were  given  with  mingled  modesty  and 
frankness ;  and  in  a  gentleness  of  manner,  and  a 
foft  tone  of  voice,  contrasting  singularly  with  the 
wild  and  often  startling  nature  of  his  themes. 
It  was  difiicult  to  conceive  the  mild,  quiet-looking 
personage  before  you,  the  actual  hero  of  the  stir- 
'•ing  scenes  related. 

In  the  course  of  three  or   four  months,  hap- 


M 


I 


i 


24 


INTRODUCrORY  NOTICE. 


peuiiig  to  be  at  the  city  of  Washington,  I  again 
came  upon  the  captain,  who  was  attending  the 
Blow  adjustment  of  his  affairs  with  the  War  De- 
partment. I  found  him  quartered  with  a  worthy 
brother  in  arms,  a  major  in  the  army.  Here  he 
was  writing  at  a  table,  covered  with  maps  and 
papers,  in  the  centre  of  a  large  barrack  room, 
fancifully  decorated  with  Indian  arms,  and  tro- 
phies, and  war  dresses,  and  the  skins  of  various 
wild  animals,  and  hung  round  with  pictures  of 
Indian  games  and  ceremonies,  and  scenes  of  war 
and  hunting.  In  a  word,  the  captain  was  beguil- 
ing the  tediousness  of  attendance  at  court,  by  au 
attempt  at  authorship  ;  and  was  rewriting  and 
extending  his  travelling  notes,  and  making  maps 
of  the  regions  he  had  explored.  As  he  sat  at 
the  table,  in  tliis  curious  apartment,  with  his 
high  bald  head  of  somewhat  fore'gn  cast,  he  re- 
minded me  of  some  of  those  antique  pictures  of 
authors  that  I  have  seen  in  old  Spanish  volumes. 

The  result  of  his  labors  was  a  mass  of  manu- 
script, which  he  subsequently  put  at  my  disposal, 
to  fit  it  for  publication  and  bring  it  before  the 
world.  I  found  it  full  of  interesting  details  of 
life  among  the  mountains,  and  of  the  singular 
castes  and  races,  both  white  men  and  red  men, 
among  whom  he  had  sojourned.  It  bore,  too, 
throughout,  tlie  impress  of  his  character,  his  hou' 
Commie,  his  kindliness  of  spii-it,  and  his  suscep- 
tibih'ty  to  the  grand  and  beautiful. 

That  manuscript  has  formed  the  staple  of  the 
following  work.  I  have  occasionally  interwoven 
facts  and  details,  gathered  from  various  sources, 
especially  from  the  conversatioiis  and  journals  of 


ht 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTICE. 


2% 


Boine  of  the  captain's  contemporaries,  who  were 
actors  in  the  scenes  he  describes.  I  have  also 
given  it  a  tone  and  coloring  drawn  from  my  own 
observation,  daring  an  excursion  into  the  Indian 
country  beyond  tlie  bounds  of  civilization  ;  as  I 
before  observed,  however,  the  work  is  substan- 
tijdly  the  narrative  of  the  worthy  captain,  and 
many  of  its  most  graphic  passages  are  but  little 
varied  from  his  own  language. 

I  shall  conclude  this  notice  by  a  dedication 
which  he  had  made  of  his  manuscript  to  his  hos- 
pitable brother  in  ju'ms,  in  whose  quarters  I  found 
him  occupied  in  his  literary  labors  ;  it  is  a  ded- 
icjition  which,  I  believe,  possesses  tlie  qualities, 
not  always  found  in  complimentary  documents  of 
the  kind,  of  being  sincere,  and  being  merited. 


TO 

JAMES  HARVEY  HOOK, 

MAJOR,    U.    S.    A. 

WHOSE  JKALOUSY   OF   ITS  HONOR, 

WHOSE     ANXIETY     FOR     ITS     INTERESTS, 

AND 
WHOSE  SENSIUILITY   FOR   ITS   WANTS, 
HAVE  ENDKARED    HIM   TO  THE   SERVICE   AS 

2ri)e  Soltifcr's  IFcienti ; 

AUD   WHOSE  GENERAL   AM KNITY,  CONSTANT  CHEERFUMSEMi 

DISINTERESTED   HOSPITALITY,    AND    UNWEARIED 

BENEVOLENCE,   ENTITLE   11151   TO  THE 

STH.L  LOKTIE):  TITLE  OF 

THE    FRIEND    OF    MAN, 

THIS   WORK    IS   INSCRIBED, 
ETC. 

Ntw-York,  1843. 


n 


i\i 


adventurp:s 


OF 


CAPTAIN   BONNEVILLE. 


CHAPTER  I. 


State  of  tlie  fur  trade  of  the  Kocky  Mountains. — American 
enterprises.  —  General  Ashloy  and  his  associates.  —  Sub- 
lette, a  famo'.is  leader.  —  Yearly  rendezvous  among  the 
mountains. —  Strataj^enis  and  dangers  of  the  trade.  —  IJanda 
of  trappers. —  Indian  banditti.  —  Crows  and  lilackfeet. — 
Mountaineers.  —  Traders  of  the  Far  West.  — Character  and 
habits  of  the  trapper. 

N  a  recent  work  we  have  given  an  ac- 
count of  the  grand  enterprise  of  Mr. 
John  Jacob  Astor,  to  establish  an  Amer- 
ican emporium  for  the  fur  trade  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Cohmi])ia,  or  Oregon  River ;  of  tlie  failure  of 
that  enterprise  through  the  capture  of  Astoria  by 
the  British,  in  1814 ;  and  of  the  way  in  which 
the  control  of  the  trade  of  the  Columbia  and  its 
dependencies  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  North-west 
Company.  "We  have  stated,  likewise,  the  unfortu- 
nate supineness  of  the  American  government,  in 
aeglecting  the  application  of  Mr.  Astor  for  the 


1 1 


28 


D  ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES, 


i  I 


protection  of  the  American  flag,  and  a  small  mili 
tary  force,  to  enable  liini  to  reinstate  himself  m  the 
possession  of  Astoria  at  the  retnrn  of  peace  ;  when 
the  post  was  formally  given  np  by  the  British  gov- 
ernment, thongh  still  occupied  by  the  North-west 
Company.  By  that  supineness  the  sovereignty  in 
the  country  has  been  virtually  lost  to  tht  United 
States ;  and  it  will  cost  both  governments  much 
trouble  and  dilficulty  to  settle  matters  on  that  just 
and  rightful  footing,  on  v/hich  they  would  readily 
have  been  placed,  had  the  i)roposition  of  Mr.  Astor 
been  attended  to.  A\^e  shall  now  state  a  few  par- 
ticulars of  subsequent  events,  so  as  to  lead  the 
reader  up  to  the  period  of  which  we  are  about 
to  treat,  and  to  prej)are  him  for  the  circumstances 
of  our  narrative. 

In  consequence  of  the  apathy  and  neglect  of 
the  American  government,  Mr.  Astor  abandoned 
all  thoughts  of  regaining  Astoria,  and  made  no 
further  attempt  to  extend  his  enterprises  beyond 
the  Ilocky  Mountains ;  and  the  North-west  Com- 
pany considered  themselves  the  lords  of  the  coun- 
try. They  did  not  long  enjoy  unmolested  the 
sway  wliicli  they  had  somewhat  surreptitiously 
attained.  A  fierce  competition  ensued  between 
tliem  and  their  old  rivals,  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany ;  which  was  carried  on  at  great  cost  and 
sacrifice,  and  occasionally  with  the  loss  of  life. 
It  ended  in  the  ruin  of  most  of  the  partners  of 
the  North-west  Company  ;  and  the  merging  of  the 
relics  of  that  establishment,  in  1821,  in  the  rival 
association.  Yvom  that  time,  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  enjoyed  a  monopoly  of  the  Indian  trade 


CHECK    TO  AMERICAN  ENTERPRISE.       29 


from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  to  the  "Rocky  ^louii 
tains,  and  for  a  considerable  extent  north  and 
south.  They  removed  their  emporium  from  As- 
toria to  Fort  Vancouver,  a  strong  post  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Columbia  River,  about  sixty  miles 
from  its  mouth  ;  whence  they  furnished  thoir  in- 
terioi'  posts,  and  sent  forth  their  brigades  of  trap 
pers. 

The  Rocky  Mountains  formed  a  vast  barrier 
between  them  and  the  United  States,  and  their 
stern  and  awful  defiles,  their  rugged  valleys,  and 
the  great  western  plains  watered  by  their  rivers, 
remained  almost  a  terra  incognita  to  the  American 
tra})per.  The  dilTiculties  experienced  in  1808,  by 
M".  Henry  of  the  Missouri  Company,  the  first 
American  who  trapped  upon  the  head-waters  of 
the  Columbia ;  and  the  frightful  hardships  sus- 
tained by  Wilson  P.  Hunt,  Ramsay  Crooks, 
Robert  Stuart,  and  other  intrepid  Asiorians,  in 
their  ill-fated  expeditions  across  the  mountahis, 
appeared  for  a  time  to  check  all  further  enterprise 
in  that  direction.  The  American  traders  contented 
themselves  with  following  up  the  head  branches 
of  the  Missouri,  the  Yellowstone,  and  other  rivers 
and  streams  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  moun- 
tains, but  forbore  to  attempt  those  great  snow- 
crowned  sierras. 

One  of  the  first  to  revive  these  tramontane  ex- 
peditions was  General  AsWey,  of  Missouri,  a  man 
whose  courage  and  achievements  in  the  prosecution 
of  his  enterprises,  have  rendered  him  famous  in 
the  Far  West.  In  conjunction  with  Mr.  Henry, 
already  mentioned,  he  established  a  post  on  the 


fp 


li'll  * 


80 


B  ONNE  VIL  L  h?  S  A  D  YEN  T UR ES. 


banks  of  the  Yellowstono  River,  in  1822,  and  in 
the  following  year  pushed  a  resolute  band  of  trap- 
pers across  the  mountains  to  the  banks  of  the 
Green  River  or  Colorado  of  the  West,  often 
known  bv  the  Indian  name  of  the  Secds-ke-dee 
Agie.^  This  attempt  was  followed  up  and  sus- 
tained by  others,  until  in  1825  a  footing  was  se- 
cured, and  a  comj)lete  system  of  trapping  organized 
beyond  the  mountains. 

It  is  diiHcult  to  do  justice  to  the  courage,  for- 
titude, and  perseverance  of  the  pioneers  of  the  fur 
trade,  who  conducted  these  early  expeditions,  and 
first  broke  their  way  through  a  wilderness  where 
everytliing  was  calculated  to  deter  and  dismay 
them.  They  had  to  tj'averse  the  most  dreary 
and  desolate  mountains,  and  barren  and  trackless 
wastes,  uninhabited  by  man,  or  occasionally  in- 
fested by  predator}^  and  cruel  savages.  They  knew 
nothing  of  the  country  beyond  the  verge  of  their 
horizon,  and  had  to  gather  information  as  they 
wandered.  They  l)eheld  volcanic  i)lains  stretcliing 
around  them,  and  ranges  of  mountains  piled  up 
to  the  clouds,  and  glistening  wuth  eternal  frost :  but 
knew  nothing  of  their  defiles,  nor  how  they  were  to 
be  penetrated  or  traversed.  They  launched  them- 
selves in  frail  canoes  on  rivers,  without  knowing 
whither  their  swift  currents  would  carry  them,  or 
what  rocks,  and  shoals,  and  rapids,  they  miglit  en- 
counter in  their  course.  They  had  to  be  contin- 
ually on  the  alert,  too,  against  the  mountain  tribes, 
who  beset  every  defile,  laid  ambuscades  in  their 

1  I.  e.    Tlie  Prairie  Hen  River.  Agie  in  the  Crow  language 
•ignifies  river. 


BOBLETTE. 


31 


path,  or  attiicked  thorn  in  their  niglit  encamp- 
in(3iits ;  so  tliat,  of  the  liardy  bands  of  tiappora 
tliat  first  entered  into  these  reijfions,  thrct?  liftlis 
are  said  to  liave  fallen  by  the  hands  of  sava<jo 
foes. 

In  tills  wild  and  warlike  school  a  number  of 
leaders  have  sprunir  up,  orii^inally  in  the  emploj', 
8ubse(piently  ])artners  of  Ashley;  amonj^  these 
we  may  miMitlon  Smith,  Fitz])atrick,  Bridi^er, 
Robert  Campbell,  and  William  Sublette ;  whoso 
adventures  and  exploits  j)artake  of  the  wildest 
spirit  of  romance.  The  association  commenced 
by  Generul  Ashley  un(hirwent  various  modifica- 
tions. That  gentleman  havin«^  accpiired  sulTicient 
fortune,  sold  out  his  interest  and  retired  ;  and  the 
leading  spii'it  that  succeeded  him  was  Captain 
William  Sublette ;  a  man  worthy  of  note,  as  his 
name  has  become  renowned  in  frontier  story.  He 
is  a  native  of  Kentucky,  and  of  game  descent ; 
his  maternal  grandfather,  Colonel  AVlieatley,  a 
companion  of  15oon,  having  been  one  of  the 
pioneers  of  the  West,  celebrated  in  Indian  war- 
fare, and  killed  in  one  of  the  contests  of  the 
"  IMoody  Ground."  We  shall  frecpiently  have 
occasion  to  speak  of  this  Sublette,  and  always  to 
the  credit  of  his  game  qualities.  In  1830,  tho 
association  took  the  name  of  the  liockv  Moun- 
tarn  Fur  Company,  of  which  Captain  Sublette 
and  Robert  Campbell  were  prominent  members. 

Li  the  meantime,  the  success  of  this  company 
attracted  the  attention  and  excited  the  emulation 
of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  brought  them 
race  more  into  the  field  of  their  ancient  enterprise. 


li 


\ 


It 


B ONNK  VI LUC'S  A  D  VKNTUREa, 


Mr.  Astor,  the  founder  of  the  assocuition,  had  re- 
tired from  busy  Hfc,  and  the  con(jerns  of  the  com- 
pany were  ably  managed  by  Mr.  Il;unsay  Crooks, 
of  Snake  River  renown,  wlio  still  olliciates  as  ita 
presiikiut.  A  competition  innnediately  ensued 
between  the  two  compani(is,  for  tlic  tijuk)  with  the 
mountain  tribes,  and  tlie  trapping  of  the  liead- 
waters  of  the  Cohnnl)ia,  and  tlie  other  great  trib- 
utaries of  tlie  Pacilic.  Besulo  the  regular  ope- 
ratk»ns  of  these  formidable  rivals,  there  have  been 
from  time  to  time  desultory  enterprises,  or  rather 
experiments,  of  minor  associations,  or  of  adveu- 
turcms  individuals,  beside  roving  bands  of  independ- 
ent trappers,  who  either  hunt  for  themselves,  or 
engage  for  a  single  season,  in  the  service  of  one 
or  (Jther  of  the  main  companies. 

The  conse(pience  is,  that  the  Rocky  Mountains 
and  the  ulterior  regions,  from  the  Russian  pos- 
sessions in  the  north,  down  to  the  Spanish  settle 
raents  of  California,  have  been  traversed  and  ran- 
sacked in  every  direction  by  bands  of  hunters 
and  Indian  traders  ;  so  that  there  is  scarcely  a 
mountain  pass,  or  defile,  that  is  not  known  ind 
threaded  in  their  restless  migrations,  nor  a  name- 
less stream  that  is  not  haunted  by  the  'onely  trap- 
per. 

The  American  fur  companies  keep  no  estab- 
lished post  beyond  the  mountauis.  Everything 
there  is  regulated  by  resident  partners ;  that  is  to 
Bay,  partners  who  reside  in  the  tramontiuie  coun- 
try, but  who  move  about  from  place  to  place, 
either  with  Indian  tribes,  whose  trainc  they  wish 
to  monopolize,  or  with  main  bodies  of  their  own 


jii.ii 


YJ'U RL  Y  RENDEZVO US. 


33 


meu,  wliuiu  tlioy  employ  in  trading  aiid  triqipitii;. 
Ill  tlu;  incjiii  timo,  they  detach  hands,  or  *  hrigad«;8" 
us  th(T  are  termed,  of  trappers  in  various  direc- 
tions, assigning  to  each  a  portion  of  country  as  a 
hunting,  or  trap[)ing  ground.  In  the  monlhs  of 
June  and  duly,  wiien  there  is  an  interval  h(it\veen 
the  hunting  seasons,  a  gcncu'al  nmdczvous  is  held, 
at  some  designated  place  in  the  mountains,  .where 
the  affairs  of  the  past  year  are  settlcMl  by  the  res- 
ident partners,  and  the  plans  for  the  following 
year  arranged. 

To  this  rendezvous  repair  the  various  brigades 
of  trap[)ers  from  tlieir  widely  separated  hunting 
grounds,  bringing  in  the  prochicts  of  their  year's 
campaign.  Hither  also  repa'r  the  Indian  tribes 
accustomed  to  tralHc  their  peltries  with  the  com- 
pany. Bands  of  free  trappers  resort  hither  also, 
*o  sell  the  furs  they  have  collected ;  or  to  engage 
vheir  services  for  the  next  hunting  season. 

To  this  rendezvous  the  company  sends  annually 
a  convoy  of  supplies  from  its  establishment  on 
the  Atlantic  frontier,  under  the  guidance  of  some 
experienced  partner  or  officer.  On  the  arrival 
of  this  convoy,  the  resident  partner  at  the  rendez- 
vous depends,  to  set  all  his  next  year's  machinery 
in  motion. 

Now  as  the  rival  companies  keep  a  vigilant  eye 
upon  each  other,  and  are  anxious  to  discover  each 
othei''s  plans  and  movements,  they  generally  con- 
trive to  hold  their  annual  assemblages  at  no  great 
distance  apart.  An  eager  competition  exists  also 
between  their  respective  convoys  of  supplies,  which 

shall  lirst  reach  its  place  of  rendezvous.     For  this 
3 


fjlt    11 


1  '  'S 


u 


B ONNE  VI L  LK'S  A D  VENTURES. 


purpose,  they  set  off  with  tlie  first  appearance  of 
grass  on  the  Atlantic  frontier,  and  push  with  all 
diligence  for  the  niountains.  The  company  that 
can  first  open  its  tempting  supplies  of  coffee,  to- 
bacco, ammunition,  scarlet  cloth,  blankets,  bright 
shawls,  and  glittering  trinkets,  has  the  greatest 
chance  to  get  all  the  peltries  and  furs  of  the  In- 
dians and  free  trappers,  and  to  engage  their  ser- 
vices for  the  next  season.  It  is  able,  also,  to  lit 
out  and  dispatch  its  own  trappers  the  soonest,  so 
as  to  get  the  start  of  its  competitors,  and  to  have 
the  first  dash  into  the  hunting  and  trapping 
grounds. 

A  new  species  of  strategy  has  sprung  out  of 
this  hunting  and  trapping  competition.  The  con- 
stant study  of  the  rival  bands  is  to  forestall  and 
outwit  each  other ;  to  supplant  each  other  in  the 
good-will  and  custom  of  the  Indian  tribes  ;  to  cross 
each  other's  plans ;  to  mislead  each  other  as  to 
routes ;  in  a  word,  next  to  his  own  advantage,  the 
study  of  the  Indian  trader  is  the  disadvantage  o) 
his  competitor. 

The  influx  of  this  wandering  trade  has  had  its 
effects  on  the  habits  of  the  mountain  tribes.  They 
have  found  the  trapping  of  the  beaver  their  most 
profitable  species  of  hunting ;  and  the  trafiic  with 
the  white  man  has  opened  to  them  sources  of 
luxury  of  which  they  previously  had  no  idea. 
The  introduction  of  fire-arms  has  rendered  them 
more  successful  hunters,  but  at  the  same  time  more 
formidable  foes  ;  some  of  them,  incorrigibly  savago 
ai.  ]  warlike  in  their  nature,  have  foun<l  the  ex 
peditions  of  the  fur  traders  giand  objects  of  prcf 


^ANGA^JiS   OF   THE   THADE, 


35 

itabJe  adventure      Tn   «     i 

of  trappers  with  tl,e,V  3'?  '""'  ''r»«^  »  '-a.uJ 

I'eeome  as  i^^^^^Z  f  !'  """»t"'-n«,  Las 
as  the  plunder  of  ."utv'  /''',"  "'^^^  ^"'"■'"'^ 
'le^ert.    The  Crovvs  am   JM?t^  "^'  ^'■•^''  "^  the 

Astoria,  still  coSu^ther  ^'-^-'^-''-ers  to 
««em  to  have    bro    1   t      ^  T  """"^  '"'''''•^'  •>'" 

T|.e,  know  the  roSl'rurtr:^^'^'-- 
wliere  to  w.ylay  them  on    ht"  "  """''f'^^  ^ 

to  find  them  in  ^,e  hmuT, I         •'""'■""^'*'  '^''^''^ 

;-eraboutthem-,t,e.~;:'^"^!'- 
trapper,  thorefo.-e,  is   „  n«  .    .  -I'lel.teofa 

■•'■"1  I'e  must  sleep  vWth  h^    '       '''  ''""^  '""''ant, 
A  new  order^:';  ^  '  I  ^X';  '"  '?  ^•^"•^- 
grown  out  of  this  system  of   f^^^^'''' '*''■  ^''^« 
times  of  the  great  Northl.  n""^'-     ^"  ""^  «W 
fade  in  furs^,"  purstT!|  •  ^T^'  '^'"«"  'ho 
=»"^1  rivers,  the  exp'S    w  ^^  "''""'  ""^  ^''^es 
t«a«  and    canoes      The  .'  '""'''^'^  °°  '"  "^''t- 
'^e'-e  the  rank  and 'file  itllT"""'''  °''  '"'^'"'«» 

-d  even  the  hardy  "  In  or7h"  "' '^  "■»'^«''' 
great  rufflers  and  Jme   W,^)        the  north,"  those 

died  fron.  point  to  Znt  of   .' ''"''  •^''"'  '^  '^'^  I'^^- 

A  totally  difF^ent    !    1  'n'i"'='f«n« 

"  the  Mon'ltaheers  "  the    t  T  ''"'"'S  "P  '  - 
that  scale  the  vast  mo „,?t         T'  *'""'    ''^i>P^'^ 
their  hazardous  vocat^nM  ''''•'""•'"•'"d  pursue 
They  move  "cm  p°:  ^"'f  '''^''-  ^'^'^  >■-««.,««. 
The  equestrian  exe.Ss      t/r  °"    '"'^^'^''ack. 
-  -gaged,  the  n^^oV       ^I^^     ^f  ■«"  '% 

-.  vast  plains  and  n.ouii:;r;':;v"::,'-- 


n 


/ 


36 


^^ 


B  ONNE  VILLE'  S  A  D  VEN  TURKS. 


•s  - 


liilarating  in  atmospheric  qualities,  seem  to  make 
them  pliys'ically  and  mentally  a  more  lively  and 
mercurial  race  than  the  fur  traders  and  trappers 
of  former  days,  the  self-vaunting  "  men  of  the 
north."  A  man  who  hestrides  a  horse,  must  be 
essentially  different  from  a  man  who  cowers  in  a 
canoe.  We  find  them,  accordingly,  hardy,  lithe, 
vigorous,  and  active ;  extravagant  in  word,  in 
thought,  and  deed ;  heedless  of  hardship  ;  daring 
of  danger ;  prodigal  of  the  present,  and  thought- 
less of  the  future. 

A  diffei'ence  is  to  be  perceived  even  between 
these  mountain  hunters  and  those  of  the  lower 
regions  along  the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  The 
latter,  generally  French  Creoles,  live  comfortably 
in  cabins  and  log-huts,  well  sheltered  from  the  in- 
clemencies of  the  seasons.  They  are  within  the 
reach  of  frequent  supplies  from  the  settlements ; 
their  life  is  comparatively  free  from  danger,  and 
from  most  of  the  vicissitudes  of  the  upper  wilder- 
ness. The  consequence  is,  that  they  are  less 
hardy,  self-dependent  and  game-spirited,  than  the 
mountaineer.  If  the  latter  by  chance  comes  among 
them  on  his  way  to  and  from  the  settlements,  he 
is  like  a  game-cock  among  the  common  roosters 
of  the  poultry-yard.  Accustomed  to  live  in  tents, 
or  to  bivouac  in  the  open  air,  he  despises  the  com- 
forts and  is  impatient  of  the  confinement  of  the 
log-house.  If  his  meal  is  not  ready  in  season,  he 
takes  his  rifle,  hies  to  the  forest  or  prairie,  shoots 
his  own  game,  lights  his  fire,  and  cooks  his  repast. 
"With  his  horse  and  his  rifle,  he  is  independent  of 
the  world,  and  spurns  at  all  its  restraints.     'J'he 


\ 


CnARACTKR    OF   THE   TRAP  PER. 


37 


\ 
make   • 

y  and 

ippers 

)f   the 

list  be 

rs  in  a 

r,  lithe, 

oril,  iu 

daring 

liougiit- 

between 
e  lower 
i.     The 
ifortably 
1  the  in- 
Ithin  the 
^ements ; 
<Ter,  and 
•  wilder- 
are  less 
[than  tike 
s  among 
.ents,  he 
roosters 
in  tents, 
he  corn- 
It  of  the 
sason,  he 
s,  shoots 
is  repast, 
ideut  of 
8.     Tbe 


very  superintendents  at  the  lower  posts  will  not 
put  liira  to  mess  with  the  common  men,  the  hire* 
lings  of  the  establishment,  but  treat  him  as  some- 
thing superior. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  class  of  men  on  the  face 
of  the  earth,  says  Captain  Bonneville,  who  lead  a 
life  of  more  continued  exertion,  peril,  and  excite- 
ment, and  who  are  more  enamored  of  their  oc- 
cupations, than  the  free  trappers  of  the  West. 
No  toil,  no  danger,  no  privation  can  turn  the  trap- 
per from  his  pursuit.  Plis  passionate  excitement 
at  times  resembles  a  mania.  In  vain  may  the 
most  vigilant  and  cruel  savages  beset  his  path ;  in 
vain  may  rocks,  and  precipices,  and  wintry  torrents 
oppose  his  progress ;  let  but  a  single  track  of  a 
beaver  meet  his  eye,  and  he  forgets  all  dangers 
and  defies  all  ditriculties.  At  times,  he  may  be 
seen  with  his  traps  on  his  shoulder,  buffeting  his 
way  across  rapid  streams,  amidst  floating  blocks 
of  ice :  at  other  times,  he  is  to  be  found  with  his 
traps  swung  on  his  back  clambering  the  most  rug- 
ged mountains,  scaling  or  descending  the  most 
frightful  precipices,  searching,  by  routes  inacces- 
sible to  the  horse,  and  never  before  trodden  by 
white  man,  for  springs  and  lakes  unknown  to  hia 
comrades,  and  where  he  may  meet  with  his  favor- 
ite game.  Such  is  the  mountaineer,  the  hardy  trap- 
per of  the  West ;  and  such,  as  we  have  slightly 
sketched  it,  is  the  wild,  Kcbin  Hood  kind  of  life, 
with  all  its  strange  and  motley  populace,  now  ex- 
isting in  full  vigor  among  the  Rocky  Mountains 

Having  thus  given  the  reader  some  idea  of  the 
actual  state  of  the  fur  trade  in  the  interior  of  our 


ff 


38 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


vast  continent,  and  made  him  acquainted  with  the 
wild  chivalry  of  the  mountains,  we  will  no  longer 
delay  the  introduction  of  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  band  into  tliis  field  of  their  enterprise,  but 
launch  them  at  once  upon  the  perilous  plams  of 
(he  Far  West. 


i 


ciiaptp:r  ti. 

Departure  from  Fort  Osage. — Modes  of  transportation. — 
Pack-horses.  —  Wagons.  —  Walker  and  Cerr^;  their  char- 
acters.—  liiiovant  feelings  on  launcliing  upon  the  Prai- 
ries.—  Wild  e«|nipments  of  the  trappers.  —  Their  gambols 
and  antics.  —  i^iti'erence  of  (;haracter  between  the  American 
and  PVench  trappers,  —  Agency  of  the  Kansas.  —  General 
Clarke. —  White  Plume,  the  Kansas  Chief.  —  Night  scene 
in  a  traders  camp.  —  Colloquy  between  White  Plume  and 
the  ('aptain.  —  IJee  huntr  —  Their  expeditions.  —  Their 
feuds  with  the  Indians.  -  ^^argaining  talent  of  White 
Plume. 


T  was  on  the  first  of  May,  1832,  that 
Captain  Bonneville  took  his  departure 
oni  the  frontier  post  of  Fort  Osage,  on 
the  Missouri.  lie  had  enlisted  a  party  of  one 
hundred  and  ten  men,  most  of  whom  had  been  in 
the  Indian  country,  and  some  of  whom  were  ex- 
perienced hunters  and  trappers.  Fort  Osage,  and 
other  places  on  the  borders  of  the  western  wilder- 
ness, abound  with  characters  of  the  kind,  ready 
for  any  expedition. 

The  ordinary  mode  of  transportation  in  these 
great  inland  expeditions  of  the  fur  traders  is  on 
mules  and  pack-horses ;  but  Captain  Bonneville 
substituted  wagons.  Though  he  was  to  travel 
through  a  trackless  wilderness,  yet  the  greater 
part  of  his  route  would  lie  across  oj^en  plains,  des- 


.1 


40 


BONNE  VILLI? S  AD  VENTURES. 


titute  of  forests,  and  where  wheel  carriages  can 
pass  in  every  direction.  The  chief  dithculty  occurs 
in  passing  the  deep  ravines  cut  through  the  prai- 
ries by  streams  and  winter  torrents.  Here  it  is 
often  necessary  to  dig  a  road  down  the  banks, 
and  to  make  bridges  for  tlie  wagons. 

In  trans{)orting  his  baggage  iii  vehicles  of  this 
kind,  Captain  Bonneville  thought  he  would  save 
the  great  delay  caused  every  morning  by  packing 
the  horses,  and  the  labor  of  unpacking  in  the  even- 
ing. Fewer  horses  also  would  be  required,  and 
less  risk  incurred  of  their  wandering  away,  or 
being  frightened  or  carried  off  by  the  Indians. 
The  wagons,  also,  would  be  more  easily  defended, 
and  might  form  a  kind  i£  fortification  in  case  of 
attack  in  the  open  prairies.  A  train  of  twenty 
wagons,  drawn  by  oxen,  or  by  four  mules  or  horses 
each,  and  laden  with  merchandise,  ammunition,  and 
provisions,  were  disposed  in  two  columns  in  the 
centre  of  the  party,  which  was  equally  divided 
into  a  van  and  a  rear-guard.  As  sub-leaders  or 
lieutenants  in  his  expedition.  Captain  Bonneville 
had  made  choice  of  Mr.  I.  R.  Walker  and  Mr.  M. 
S.  Cerre.  The  former  was  a  native  of  Tennessee, 
about  six  feet  high,  strong  built,  dark  complexioned, 
brave  in  spirit,  though  mild  in  manners.  He  had 
resided  for  many  years  in  Missouri,  on  the  frontier  ; 
had  been  among  the  earliest  adventurers  to  Santa 
Fe,  where  he  went  to  trap  beaver,  and  was  taken 
by  the  Spaniards.  Being  liberated,  he  engaged 
with  the  Spaniards  and  Sioux  Indians  in  a  war 
against  the  Pawnees ;  then  returned  to  Missouri; 
and  had  acted  by  turns  as  sheriff,  trader,  trapper, 


JiL 


LAUNCHING    OUT  ON    THE  PRAIRIES.       4a 


until  he  was  enlisted  as  a  leader  by  Captain 
Bonneville. 

Cerre,  his  other  leader,  had  likewise  been  in 
expeditions  to  Santa  Fu,  in  which  he  had  endured 
much  hardship.  lie  was  of  the  middle  size,  li^ht 
comidexioned,  and  though  but  about  twenty-live 
years  of  age,  was  considered  an  experienced  In- 
dian trader.  It  was  a  great  object  with  Captain 
Bonneville  to  get  to  the  mountains  before  the 
sunnner  heats  and  summer  flies  should  render  the 
travelling  across  the  prairies  distressing  ;  and 
before  the  annual  assemblages  of  people  connected 
with  the  fur  trade,  should  have  broken  up,  and 
dispersed  to  the  hunting  grounds. 

The  two  rival  associations  already  mentioned, 
the  American  Fur  Company  and  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company,  had  their  several  places  of 
rendezvous  for  the  present  year  at  no  great  dis- 
tance apart,  in  Pierre's  Hole,  a  deep  valley  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains,  and  thither  Captain  Bon- 
neville intended  to  shape  his  course. 

It  is  not  easy  to  do  justice  to  the  exulting  feel- 
ings of  the  worthy  captain,  at  finding  himself  at 
the  head  of  a  stout  band  of  hunters,  trappers,  and 
woodmen ;  fairly  launched  on  the  broad  prairies, 
with  his  face  to  the  boundless  West.  The  tamest 
ndiabitant  of  cities,  the  veriest  spoiled  child  of 
civilization,  feels  his  heart  dilate  and  his  pulse  beat 
high,  on  finding  himself  on  horseback  in  the  glo- 
rious wilderness ;  what  then  must  be  the  excitement 
of  one  whose  imagination  had  been  stimulated  by 

residerce  on  the  frontier,  and  to  whom  the 
fk^ilderness  was  a  resiou  of  romance ! 


frfl 

III 


hi 


42 


B ONN-E  VILL r?S  AD  VENTURES. 


His  hardy  followers  partook  of  liis  excitement- 
Most  of  them  had  already  experienced  the  wild 
freedom  of  savage  life,  and  looked  forward  to  a 
renewal  of  ])ast  scenes  of  adventure  and  exploit. 
Their  very  appearance  and  ecpiipment  exiii- 
bited  a  piebald  mixtnre,  half  civUized  and  half 
savage.  Many  of  them  looked  more  like  Indians 
than  white  men,  in  their  garbs  and  accoutre- 
ments, and  their  very  horses  were  caparis- 
onec.  in  barbaric  style,  with  fantastic  trappings. 
The  outset  of  a  band  of  adventurers  on  one  of 
these  expeditions  is  always  animated  and  joyous. 
The  welkin  rang  with  their  shouts  and  yelps,  after 
the  manner  of  the  savages ;  and  with  boisterous 
jokes  and  light-hearted  laughter.  As  they  passed 
the  straggling  hamlets  and  solitary  cabins  that 
fringe  the  skirts  of  the  frontier,  they  would  startle 
their  inmates  by  Indian  yells  and  war-whoops,  or 
regale  them  with  grotesque  feats  of  horsemanship, 
well  suited  to  their  half  savage  appearance.  Most 
of  these  abodes  were  inhabited  by  men  who  had 
themselves  been  in  similar  expeditions ;  they  wel- 
comed the  travellers,  therefore,  as  brother  trappers, 
treated  them  with  a  hunter's  hospitality,  and 
cheered  them  with  an  honest  God  speed,  at  partuig. 

And  here  we  would  remark  a  great  diiference, 
in  point  of  character  and  quality,  between  the  two 
classes  of  trappers,  the  ''  American"  and  "  French," 
as  they  are  called  in  contradistinction.  The  latter 
is  meant  to  designate  the  French  Creole  of  Canada 
or  Louisiana ;  the  former,  the  trapper  of  the  old 
American  stock,  from  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  and 
others  of  the  Western  States.     The  French  trap- 


»  % 


THE  AMERICAN   TRAPPER, 


43 


sment. 
I  wild 
i  tx)  11 
xploit. 
cxlii- 
l  half 
ndians 

iOUtl'C- 

aparis- 
[)pings. 
)ne  of 
joyous. 
s,  after 
sterous 


lis   that 
L  startle 
)ops,  or 
anship, 
Most 
ho  had 
y  wel- 
appers, 
and 
)artuig. 
ivence, 
Ihe  two 
vench," 
latter 
/auada 
the  old 
ie,  and 
(i  trap- 


per is  represen  ;ed  as  a  lighter,  softer,  more  self 
iu<lulgent  kind  of  man.  He  must  have  his  Indian 
wife,  his  lodge,  and  his  petty  conveniences.  Ho 
is  gay  and  thouglitless,  takes  little  heed  of  land- 
marks, depends  upon  liis  leaders  and  companions 
to  tliink  for  tlie  common  wi^al,  and,  if  left  to  him- 
self, is  easily  perplexed  and  lost. 

The  American  trapper  stands  hy  himself,  and 
is  peerless  for  the  service  of  the  wilderness.  Drop 
him  in  the  midst  of  a  prairie,  or  in  the  heart  of 
tlie  mountains,  and  he  is  never  at  a  loss.  He 
notices  every  landmark ;  c^n  retrace  his  route 
through  the  most  monotonous  plains,  or  the  most 
perplexed  lahyrinths  of  the  mountains  ;  no  danger 
nor  difficulty  Ciin  appall  him,  and  he  scorns  to  com- 
plain under  any  privation.  In  ecpiipping  the  two 
kinds  of  trapj)ers,  the  Creole  and  Canadian  are 
apt  to  prefer  the  light  fusee  ;  the  American  always 
gras[)s  his  rifle ;  he  despises  what  he  calls  the  "  shot- 
gun." We  give  these  estimates  on  the  authority 
of  a  trader  of  long  experience,  and  a  foreigner 
by  birth.  "  I  consider  one  American,"  said  he, 
"  equal  to  three  Canadians  hi  point  of  sagacity, 
aptness  at  resources,  self-dependence,  and  fearless- 
ness of  s})irit.  In  fact,  no  one  can  coj)e  with  him 
as  a  stark  tramper  of  the  wilderness." 

Beside  the  two  classes  of  trappers  just  men- 
tioned, Captain   Bonneville   had  enlisted   several 
Delaware  Jmlians  in  his  employ,  on  whose  hunt 
ing  qualilications  he  placed  great  reliance. 

On  the  Cth  of  May  the  travellers  passed  the 
last  border  habitation,  and  bade  a  long  farewell 
to  the  ease  and  sec?  rity  of  civilization.    The  buoy- 


/ 


44 


J3 ONSE  VILLIiT S  AD  YEN T Uh  PH, 


aut  aiid  clamorous  si)irits  with  wliich  they  had 
commenced  their  m.irch,  gnuhially  subsided  as 
they  entered  upon  .ts  dilliculties.  Tliey  found 
the  prairi<;s  saturated  with  the  heavy  cold  rains, 
prevalei't  m  certiiin  seasons  of  the  year  in  this 
part  of  the  country,  the  wagon  wheels  sank  deep 
in  the  mire,  the  horses  were  often  to  tlie  fetlock, 
and  both  steed  and  rider  were  coni})letely  jaded 
by  the  evening  of  the  12th,  when  they  reached 
the  Kansas  Kiver ;  a  fine  stream  about  three 
hundred  yards  wide,  entering  the  Mistsouri  from 
the  south.  Though  fordable  in  almost  every  part 
at  the  end  of  summer  and  during  the  autumn, 
yet  it  was  necessary  to  construct  a  raft  for  the 
transportation  of  the  wagons  and  effects.  All 
this  was  done  m  the  course  of  the  following  day, 
and  by  evenuig,  the  whole  party  arrived  at  tlie 
agency  of  the  Kansas  tribe.  This  was  under  the 
superintendence  of  General  Clarke,  brother  of  the 
celebrated  traveller  of  the  same  name,  who,  with 
Lewis,  made  the  first  expechtion  down  the  waters 
of  the  Columbia.  He  was  living  like  a  patriarch, 
surrounded  by  laborers  and  interpreters,  all 
snugly  housed,  and  provided  with  excellent 
farms.  The  functionary  next  m  consequence  to 
the  agent  was  the  blacksmith,  a  most  important, 
and,  indeed,  mdispen sable  personage  in  a  frontier 
community.  The  Kansas  resemble  the  Osages  in 
features,  dress,  and  language  ;  they  raise  com  and 
hunt  the  buffalo,  ranging  the  Kansas  River,  and 
its  tributary  streams;  at  the  time  of  the  captain's 
visit,  they  were  at  war  with  the  Pawnees  of  the 
Nebraska,  or  Platte  River.  ; 


WlllTK  PLUME. 


45 


Tlie  uiuisiial  siglit  of  a  train  of  wa^i^ons,  caused 
.•juitc  a  sensation  among  these  savages ;  who 
thronged  about  tlie  earavan,  examining  every 
thing  minutely,  and  asking  a  tliousand  questions  : 
exhibiting  a  deg'-ee  of  excitability,  and  a  lively 
I'uriosity,  totally  0})posite  to  th:it  apathy  with 
which  their  race  is  so  often  reproached. 

The  personage  who  most  attracted  the  caj)- 
tain's  attention  at  this  jdace,  was  "  AVhite  Plume," 
the  Kansas  chief,  and  they  soon  became  good 
friends.  White  Plume  (we  are  pleased  with  his 
chivalrous  souhriquct)  iidiabited  a  large  stone 
house,  built  for  him  by  order  of  the  American 
government :  but  the  establishment  liad  not  been 
carried  out  in  corresponding  style.  It  might  be 
palace  without,  but  it  was  wigwam  within  ;  so 
that,  between  the  stateliness  of  his  mansion,  and 
the  squ.didness  of  his  furniture,  the  gallant  White 
Plume  presented  some  such  whimsical  incongruity 
as  we  see  in  the  gala  equi])meRts  of  an  Indian 
chief,  on  a  treaty-making  embassy  at  Washington, 
wlio  has  been  generously  decked  out  in  cocked  hat 
and  military  coat,  in  contrast  to  his  breech-clout 
and  leathern  leggings  ;  being  grand  officer  at  top, 
and  raii^ijed  Indian  at  bottom. 

Wliite  Plume  was  so  taken  with  the  courtesy 
of  the  captain,  and  pleased  with  one  or  two  pres- 
ents received  from  him,  that  he  accompanied  him 
a  day's  journey  on  his  march,  and  passed  a  night 
in  his  camp,  on  the  margin  of  a  small  stream. 
The  method  of  encamping  generally  observed  by 
the  captahi,  wis  as  follows:  The  twenty  wagons 
jv^ere  disposed    in   a  square,  at  the   distance   of 


i 


4G 


nONM':VILLE'S  ADVK^  TURI^S, 


tliirt y-tliiL'o  fi'L't  from  cacli  other.  In  every  inter 
vmI  there  wus  a  mess  stiitioiKul ;  and  eaeh  mess 
had  its  lire,  where  the  men  cooked,  ate,  iTossiped, 
and  shipt.  The  liorses  were  placed  in  the  eentro 
of  tlie  s(juare,  with  a  gnard  stationed  over  them 
at  iiiglit. 

The  horses  were  "  side-lined,"  as  it  is  termed  : 
that  is  to  say  the  fore  and  liind  foot  on  the  same 
side  of  tlie  animal  were  tied  together,  so  as  to  ho 
within  eightiien  inches  of  each  other.  A  horse 
thns  fettered  is  for  a  time  sjidly  emharrassed,  hnt 
Boon  hecomes  sulliciently  accustomed  to  the  re- 
straint to  move  ahont  slowly.  It  prevents  his 
wandering;  and  his  being  easily  carried  oft'  at 
night  by  lurking  Trulians.  When  a  horse  that  is 
"  foot  free,"  is  tied  to  one  thus  secured,  the  latter 
forms,  as  it  were,  a  pivot,  round  which  the  other 
runs  and  curvets,  in  case  of  alarm. 

The  encampment  of  which  we  are  speaking, 
presented  a  striking  scene.  The  various  mess- 
lires  were  surrounded  by  picturesipie  groups, 
standing,  sitting,  and  reclining  ;  some  busied  in 
cooking,  others  in  cleaning  their  weapons  :  while 
the  fre(|uent  laugh  told  that  the  rough  joke,  or 
merry  story  was  going  on.  In  the  middle  of  the 
camp,  before  the  principal  lodge,  sat  the  two 
chieftains,  Captain  Bonneville  and  White  Plume, 
in  soldier-like  communion,  the  captain  delighted 
with  the  opportunity  of  meeting,  on  social  terms, 
with  one  of  the  red  warriors  of  the  wilderness, 
the  unsophisticnted  children  of  nature.  The 
'atter  was  s([uaf(ed  on  his  buffalo  robe,  his  strong 
teatui'es  and  red  skin  glaring  in  the  broad  light 


BKE  rtuNTrns 

'^f    '1    \A',\/.\\\<r  /],.p     .,,1  ■,       , 

Ihe  feuds  of  Whit,.   T>i  ,' 

'-"  -nfincl  to  I  re,  n""-''  'r'"''''  '"'"  "<" 
-.y  of  ,.rusl,es  «it  b  e  L  I"  '  .'""'  """''  '" 
"■•8  for  whom  he  seeTne,      '    7' "  *''  "^  "'"-■"' 

•^^"tol  hy  these  nv.nhies  is  "  f-  '",''''"«  l"'^*"- 
"f  "i«  .•u,oie„t  books  oVvn  ■""'  ''"""  "'  ""y 
I'-'lia.-  to  our  wt  em  t^onr'"'  ■•""'  '''  '"  '-i 

reader.  ^    "'  "**  """tceptable  to  tlio 

fever  a,„I  «.,„  «;!  ex;;„     ""^'•.  '""'^  '■^"°'^-  "^ 
on  new  soil,  an.l  in  ThTi'  •?  ^""'•^''  ^o'"  "vin-r 

'."e  -^-.n:whe„  thVnrv"  :°'=""^^^  '"^^    ^" 

"«'•   settlers   form  p'rti'    nf    ■"  °''"''  ""^^«  «'«"- 

l-^I'-e  for  a  bee  h.n  t      H '•'"■°  °'-  ""■«'^.  ""'J 

^'^ives  with  a  wagon  anJr"=  '',''"'''*•''  "'->- 

casks,  they  sally  off  ,™      ^'^  "'""ber  of  empty 

'he  wil„er„es,s,\,ir    trtr  e  """  "''^^'  ""» 
"orth,  or  south,  without  •  „ v  T  '"■^''  '^est, 

nance  of  the  American  If^  '■"^"*"'  '"  ""e  ordi- 
«"-Wcls  all  trespass  ulfrr'",""'"''  '^'"'*  ^t^ctly 
"";  Indian  tribes      ^°"  *^  ^"'^'^^  b«'o„gi„„  ,^' 

Tlie  belts  of  woodhinr)  n    .  . 
f-'-ies,  an.,   border   t      "'""  ■""  *''  '"-« 
'""."""^^'•"We  swarms  of  w  M     '  "''"   ^'^'P'*'''   ''^ 


f 


' 


48 


B ONNE  VILLE  S  AD  VENTURES. 


honey  tolled  from  the  rich  flowers  of  the  prairies. 
The  bees,  according  to  poijular  assertion,  are 
migrating,  like  the  settlers,  to  the  west.  An 
Indian  trader,  well  experienced  in  the  country, 
informs  us  that  within  ten  years  that  he  has 
passed  in  the  Far  West;  the  bee  has  advanced 
westward  above  a  hundred  miles.  It  is  said  on 
the  Missouri,  that  the  wild  turkey  and  the  wild 
bee  go  up  the  river  together :  neither  are  found 
m  the  upper  regions-  It  is  but  recently  that  the 
wild  turkey  has  been  killed  on  the  Nebraska,  or 
Platte  ;  and  his  travelling  competitor,  the  wild 
bee,  appeared  there  about  the  same  time. 

Be  all  this  as  it  may :  the  course  of  our  party 
of  bee  hunters,  is  to  make  a  wide  circuit  through 
the  woody  river  bottoms,  and  the  patches  of  forest 
on  the  prairies,  marking,  as  they  go  out,  every 
tree  in  which  they  have  detected  a  hive.  These 
marks  are  generally  respected  by  any  other  bee 
hunter  that  should  couic  ii^)on  their  track.  When 
they  have  marked  oifficient  to  fill  all  their  casks, 
they  turn  their  faces  hon.oward,  cut  down  the 
trees  as  they  proceed,  arid  hav-ng  loaded  their 
wagon  with  honey  and  wax,  return  well  pleased 
to  the  settlements. 

Now  it  so  happens  that  the  Indians  relish  wild 
honey  as  highly  as  do  the  white  men,  and  are  the 
more  delighted  with  this  natural  luxury  from  its 
having,  in  many  instances,  but  recently  made  its 
appearance  in  their  lands.  The  consequence  is, 
numberless  disputes  and  conflicts  between  them 
and  the  bee  himters :  and  often  a  party  of  the 
h  tter,  returning,  laden  with  rich  spoil,  from  one 


Hifc! 


IJl' 


then-  l>,a„.ess  cut  to    .icerid  ^  '°,  ""^  '''''^' 

to  escape  with  no  greater  uJJ  ,J  ""''  ''■'''l'^ 
sound  rib-roasting.  ^""'"^  '^'■"^  than  a 

the'Sa,:;  whf:  sf"  f  r""''"  ««•-'- 

«.mplaint.     They  we  e"!?.';  *'  ""^^  '""<'■■ 
western  part  of  mss:::C':ZrTtC''''''\-^  'he 
bee  hunters  on   the  fronH.         i"""' *'"»""'» 
'"•"ting   ground    iL     "u\    '  '","'  "''"'^<^  &vorite 
Kansa.r  tribe.    Aceordin^      ;/''"   '"'"'-^  "^   "-e 
Wun.e,  however  nirs^  w       •'"'''"""  "'  ^^''"^ 
anced   between  hin  a  .^1^;  ^T'  '"'•'^  "="- 
as  often  treated  them  1     .'''''■'  '  ''«  ''»vi"g 

t% -.ad  robbed  itVth:^^'''^^'''^'-' - 

he»Ce';sf:/;:;;:f"='"'.^'^'-<'^'°-.-that 

'%l>ts  of  civilisation  Z"!  T^""''^''  ^"'"^  "^  the 
>vlutes,a,s  wasevinL  in  •  \"  '"""^'■'"''-^  to  the 
a  bargain.  He  ', led  ?  r""''"="^  °^ "'•'-■"g 
«ome  com  with  wide'  j  ""•  ?  '  "'  '*""•"  '"''r 
t'-i",  and  left  the  la  J.  /"''f '  ""^  '^°'t''y  cap- 
"''•ui-'e,  his  nat  ve  eldv.f  ^  '°''  ^'"'^''  ■"««'  ^ 
-l-edad.oitnel:afrSer  '"'--'  -J^ 


ii 

■It' 


« 


•' 


P^ 


i 


CHAPTER  III. 

Wide  prairies.  —  Vegetable  productions.  —  Tabular  hillf*.  - 
Slabs  of  sandstone.  —  Nebraska  or  Platte  River.  —  Scanh 
fare. —  IJutfalo  skulls.  —  Wngoiia  turned  into  boats.— 
Herds  of  Buffalo.  —  Clilfs  reseuibling  castles.  —  The  Chim- 
ney.—  Scott's  Jilulls. —  Story  connected  with  tiiem. — 
Tlie  bighorn  or  ahsahta  —  its  nature  and  habits.  —  l^ifl'er- 
ence  between  that  and  the  "  woolly  sheep,"  or  goat  of  the 
mountains. 


ill  I 


ROM  the  middle  to  tlic  end  of  M;iy, 
Captain  l>onneville  pursued  a  western 
II  course  over  vast  luidulating  j)]ains,  des- 
ticute  of  tree  or  shrub,  rendered  miry  hy  occa- 
sional rain,  and  cut  up  by  deep  water-courses 
vvliei'e  they  had  to  dig  roads  for  their  wagons 
down  tlie  soft  crumbling  banks,  and  to  throw 
bridges  across  the  streams.  The  weather  liad 
attained  the  summer  heat ;  the  thermometer 
standing  about  fifty-seven  degrees  in  the  morning, 
early,  but  rising  to  about  ninety  degrees  at  noon. 
The  incessant  breezes,  however,  which  sweep 
tliese  vast  plains,  render  the  heats  endurable. 
Game  was  scanty,  and  they  had  to  eke  out  their 
scanty  fare  with  wild  roots  and  vegetables,  such 
as  the  Indian  potato,  the  wild  onion,  and  the 
prairie  tomato,  and  they  met  with  cpiantities  of 
**  rod  root,"  from  which  the  hunters  make  a  very 


h. 


NEBRASKA    OR  PLATTE  RIVER, 


51 


palatable  hevenige.  The  only  human  being  thai 
crossed  their  path  was  a  Kansas  warrior,  return- 
ing from  some  solitary  expedition  of  bravado  oi 
revenge,  bearing  a  Pawnee  scalp  as  a  troj)hy. 

The  country  gradually  rose  as  they  proceedtMl 
westward,  and  their  route  took  them  over  high 
ridges,  commanding  wide  and  beautiful  prospects. 
The  vast  plain  was  studded  on  the  west  with  in- 
numerable hills  of  conical  shape,  such  as  are  seen 
north  of  the  Arkansas  River.  These  hills  have 
their  summits  apparently  cut  off  about  tiie  same 
elevation,  so  as  to  leave  flat  surfaces  at  top.  It 
is  conjectured  by  some,  that  the  whole  country 
may  originally  have  been  of  the  altitude  of  these 
tabular  hills  ;  but  through  some  process  of  nature 
may  have  sunk  to  its  present  level ;  these  insu- 
lated eminences  being  protected  by  broad  founda- 
tions of  solid  rock. 

Captain  Bonneville  mentions  another  geologicid 
phenomenon  north  of  Red  River,  where  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth,  in  considerable  tracts  of  country, 
is  covered  with  broad  slabs  of  sandstone,  having 
the  form  and  position  of  grave-stones,  and  look- 
ing as  if  they  had  been  forced  up  by  some  sub- 
terranean agitation.  "  The  resemblance,"  says 
he,  "  which  these  very  remarkable  spots  have  in 
many  places  to  old  church-yards  is  curious  in  the 
extreme.  One  might  almost  fancy  himself  among 
the  tombs  of  the  pre- Adamites." 

On  the  2(1  of  June,  they  arrived  on  the  main 
stream  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  River  ;  twenty- 
nve  miles  below  the  head  of  the  Great  Island. 
The  low  banks  of  this  river  give  it  an  appearance 


I  !!f 


jli  I" 


B 0 .V;V^ VJLL ETS  AD VENTUR E8. 


of  greafc  width.  Qiptain  Bonneville  measured  it 
in  one  place,  and  found  it  twenty-two  hundred 
yards  from  bank  to  bank.  Its  depth  was  from 
three  to  six  feet,  the  bottom  full  of  quicksands. 
The  Nebraska  is  studded  with  islands  covered 
with  that  species  of  poplar  called  the  cotton -wood 
tree.  Keeping  up  along  the  course  of  this  river 
for  several  days,  they  were  obliged,  from  the 
scarcity  of  game,  to  put  themselves  upon  si  '•rt 
allowance,  and,  occasionally,  to  kill  a  steer.  Th^y 
bore  their  daily  labors  and  privations,  however, 
with  great  good  humor,  taking  their  tone,  in  all 
probability,  from  the  buoyant  spirit  of  their 
leader.  "  If  the  weather  was  inclement,"  says 
the  captain,  "  we  watched  the  clouds,  and  hoped 
for  a  sight  of  the  blue  sky  and  the  merry  sun. 
If  food  was  scanty,  we  regaled  ourselves  with  the 
hope  of  soon  falling  in  with  herds  of  buffixlo,  and 
having  nothing  to  do  but  slay  and  eat."  We 
doubt  whether  the  genial  captain  is  not  describing 
the  cheeriness  of  his  own  breast,  which  gave  a 
cheery  aspect  to  everything  around  him. 

There  certainly  were  evidences,  however,  that 
the  counti'y  was  not  always  equally  destitute  of 
game.  At  one  place,  they  observed  a  field  dec- 
orated with  buffalo  skulls,  arranged  in  circles, 
curves,  and  other  mathematical  figures,  as  if  for 
some  mystic  rite  or  ceremony.  They  were  al- 
most innumerable,  and  seemed  to  have  been  a 
vast  hecatomb  offered  up  in  thanksgiving  to  the 
Great  Spirit  for  some  signal  success  in  the  chase. 

On  the  11th  of  June,  they  came  to  the  fork  of 
the  Nebraska,  wheie  it    divides  itself  into    twc 


WAGONS    TURNED   INTO  BOATS. 


53 


equal  and  beautiful  streams.  One  of  these 
branches  rises  in  the  west-southwest,  near  the 
head  waters  of  the  Arkansas.  Up  the  course  of 
this  branch,  as  Captain  Bonneville  was  well 
aware,  lay  the  route  to  the  Camanche  and  Kio- 
way  Indians,  .and  to  the  northern  Mexican  settle- 
ments ;  of  the  other  branch  he  knew  nothing. 
Its  sources  might  lie  among  wild  and  inaccessible 
dirt's,  and  tumble  and  foam  down  rugged  defiles 
and  over  craggy  precipices ;  but  its  direction  was 
in  the  true  course,  and  up  this  stream  he  deter- 
mined to  prosecute  his  route  to  the  RocKy  Moun- 
tains. Finding  it  impossible,  from  quicksands 
and  other  dangerous  impediments,  to  ci'oss  the 
river  in  this  neighborhood,  he  kept  up  along  the 
south  fork  for  two  days,  merely  seeking  a  safe 
fording  place.  At  length  he  encamped,  caused 
the  bodies  of  the  wagons  to  be  dislodged  from 
the  wheels,  covered  with  buffixlo  hides,  and  be- 
smeared with  a  compound  of  tallow  and  ashes  ; 
thus  forming  rude  boats.  In  these,  they  ferried 
their  effects  across  the  stream,  which  was  six 
hundred  yards  wide,  with  a  swift  and  strong  cur- 
rent. Tlu-ee  men  were  in  each  boat,  to  manage 
it ;  others  waded  across,  pushing  the  barks  be- 
fore them.  Thus  all  crossed  in  safety.  A  march 
of  nine  miles  took  them  over  high  rolling  prairies 
to  the  north  fork  ;  their  eyes  being  regaled  with 
the  welcome  sight  of  herds  of  buffalo  at  a  dis- 
tance, some  careering  the  plain,  others  grazing 
and  reposing  in  the  natural  meadows. 

Skirting  along  the  north  fork  for  a  day  or  two, 
excessively  annoyed  by  musquitoes   and  bufJalo 


I 


54 


DONNEVILLPS  ADVENTURES, 


gnats,  they  reached,  on  the  evening  of  tlie  17  th, 
a  small  but  beautiful  grove,  fronn  which  issued 
the  confused  notes  of  singing  birds,  the  first  they 
had  heard  since  crossing  the  boundary  of  Mis- 
souri. After  so  many  days  of  weary  travelling, 
through  a  naked,  monotonous,  and  silent  country 
it  was  delightful  once  more  to  hear  the  song  of 
the  bird,  and  to  behold  the  verdure  of  the  grove. 
It  was  a  beautiful  sunset,  and  a  sight  of  the 
glowing  rays,  mantling  the  tree-tops  and  rustling 
branches,  ghiddened  every  heart.  They  pitched 
their  camp  in  the  grove,  kindled  their  fires,  par- 
took merrily  of  their  rude  fare,  and  resigned 
themselves  to  the  sweetest  sleep  they  had  en- 
joyed since  their  outset  upon  the  prairies. 

The  country  now  became  rugged  and  broken. 
High  bluffs  advanced  upon  the  river,  and  forced 
the  travellers  occasionally  to  leave  its  banks  and 
wind  their  course  into  the  interior.  In  one  of 
the  wild  and  solitary  passes,  they  were  startled 
by  the  trail  of  four  or  five  pedestrians,  whom 
they  supposed  to  be  spies  from  some  predatory 
camp  of  either  Arickara  or  Crow  Indians.  This 
obliged  them  to  redouble  their  vigilance  at  night, 
and  to  keep  especial  watch  upon  their  horses. 
In  these  rugged  and  elevated  regions  they  began 
to  see  the  black-tailed  deer,  a  species  larger  than 
the  ordinary  kind,  and  chiefly  found  in  rocky  and 
mountainous  countries.  They  had  reached  also 
a  great  buffalo  range  ;  Captain  Bonneville  as- 
cended a  high  bluff,  commandhig  an  extensive 
view  of  the  surrounding  plains.  As  far  as  hia 
Bye  could  reacn,  the  country  seemed  absolutely 


"I 


SCOTT S  BLUFFS. 


55 


blackened  by  innumerable  herds.  No  language, 
lie  says,  could  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
vast  living  mass  thus  presented  to  his  eye.  IIo 
remarked  that  the  bulls  and  cows  generally  con- 
gregated in  se[)arate  herds. 

Opposite  to  the  camp  at  this  place  was  a  sin- 
gular phenomenon,  which  is  among  the  curiosities 
of  the  country.  It  is  called  the  Cliimney.  The 
lower  part  is  a  conical  mound,  rising  out  of  the 
naked  plain  ;  from  the  summit  shoots  up  a  shaft 
or  column,  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
in  height,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  The 
height  of  the  whole,  according  to  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, is  a  hundred  and  seventy-five  yards.  It  is 
composed  of  indurated  clay,  with  alternate  layers 
of  red  and  white  sandstone,  and  may  be  seen  at 
the  distance  of  upwards  of  thirty  miles. 

On  the  21st,  they  encamped  amidst  high  and 
beetling  cliffs  of  indurated  clay  and  sandstone, 
bearing  the  semblance  of  towers,  castles,  churches, 
and  foitified  cities.  At  a  distance,  it  was  scarcely 
possible  to  persuade  one's  self  that  the  works  of 
art  were  not  mingled  with  these  fantastic  freaks 
of  nature.  They  have  received  the  name  of 
Scott's  Bluffs,  from  a  melancholy  circumstance. 
A  number  of  years  since,  a  party  W'ere  descending 
tlie  upper  part  of  the  river  in  canoes,  when  their 
frail  barks  were  overturned  and  all  their  powder 
spoiled.  Their  rifles  being  thus  rendered  use- 
less, they  were  unable  to  procure  food  by  limiting 
and  had  to  depend  upon  roots  and  wild  fruits  for 
subsistence.  After  suffering  extremely  from  hun- 
ger, they  arrived  at  Laramie's  Fork,  a  small  ti'ib* 


I 


ui\>m 


56 


B ONNE  VILLE'S  A D  VENTURES. 


I   ¥ 


utary  of  the  north  branch  of  the  Nebraska,  about 
sixty  miles  above  the  elites  just  mentioned.  Here 
one  of  the  party,  by  the  name  of  Scott,  was  tiiken 
ill  ;  and  his  companions  came  to  a  halt,  until  he 
should  recover  health  and  strength  sufficient  to 
proceed.  While  they  were  searching  round  in 
quest  of  edible  roots,  they  discovered  a  fresh  trail 
of  white  men,  who  had  evidently  but  recently 
preceded  them.  What  was  to  be  done  ?  By  a 
forced  march  they  might  overtake  this  party,  and 
thus  be  able  to  reach  the  settlements  in  safety. 
Should  they  linger,  they  might  all  perish  of  famine 
and  exhaustion.  Scott,  however,  was  incapable 
of  moving ;  they  were  too  feeble  to  aid  him  for- 
ward, and  dreaded  that  such  a  clog  would  pre- 
vent their  coming  up  with  the  advance  party. 
The  J  determined,  therefore,  to  abandon  him  to 
his  fate.  Accordingly,  under  pretense  of  seeking 
food,  and  such  simples  as  might  be  efficacious  in 
his  malady,  they  deserted  him  and  hastened  for- 
ward upon  the  trail.  They  succeeded  in  overtak- 
ing the  party  of  which  they  were  in  quest,  but 
concealed  their  faithless  desertion  of  Scott ;  alleg- 
ing that  he  had  died  of  disease. 

On  the  ensuing  summer,  these  very  individuals 
visiting  these  parts  in  company  with  others,  came 
suddenly  upon  the  bleached  bones  and  grinning 
skull  of  a  human  skeleton,  which,  by  certain  signs 
they  recognized  for  the  remains  of  Scott.  This 
was  sixty  long  miles  from  the  place  where  they 
had  abandoned  him  ;  and  it  a})peared  that  the 
wretched  man  had  crawled  that  immense  distance 
before  death  put  an  end  to  his  miseries.     The 


It 


THE  AnSAHTA. 


57 


It 


wild  and  picturesque  bluffs  in  the  neighborhood  of 
his  lonely  grave  have  ever  since  borne  his  name 

Amidst  this  wild  and  striking  scenery,  Captain 
Bonneville,  for  the  first  time,  beheld  flocks  of  the 
ahsahta  or  bighorn,  an  animal  which  frequents 
these  cliff's  in  great  numbers.  They  accord  with 
the  nature  of  such  scenery,  and  add  much  to  its 
romantic  effect ;  bounding  like  goats  from  crag 
to  crag,  often  trooping  along  the  lofty  shelves  of 
the  mountains,  under  the  guidance  of  some  vener- 
able patriarch,  with  horns  twisted  lower  than  his 
muzzle,  and  sometimes  peering  over  the  edge  of 
a  precipice,  so  high  that  they  appear  scarce  bigger 
than  crows  ;  indeed,  it  seems  a  pleasure  to  them 
to  seek  the  most  rugged  and  frightful  situations, 
doubtless  from  a  feeling  of  security. 

This  animal  is  commonly  called  the  mountain 
sheep,  and  is  often  confounded  with  another  ani- 
mal, the  "  woolly  sheep,"  found  more  to  the  north- 
ward, about  the  country  of  the  Flatheads.  The 
latter  likewise  inhabits  cliffs  in  summer,  but  de- 
sccntio  into  the  valleys  in  the  winter.  It  has  white 
wool,  like  a  sheep,  mingled  with  a  thin  growth 
of  long  hair  ;  but  it  has  short  legs,  a  deep  belly, 
and  a  beard  like  a  goat.  Its  horns  are  about  five 
inches  long,  slightly  curved  backwards,  black  as 
jet,  and  beautifully  polished.  Its  hoofs  are  of 
the  same  color.  This  animal  is  by  no  means  so 
active  as  the  bighorn ;  it  does  not  bound  much, 
but  sits  a  good  deal  upon  its  haunches.  It  is  not 
80  plentiful  either ;  rarely  more  than  two  or  three 
are  seen  at  a  time.  Its  wool  alone  gives  a  re- 
semblance to  the  sheep ;  it  is  more  properly  of 


I 


t 


58 


B  ONNE  VlLUr  S   ADVENT  URES 


\l 


the  goat  genus.  The  flosli  is  said  to  have  a 
musty  Havor ;  some  have  thought  tlie  fleece  might 
be  valuable,  as  it  is  said  to  be  as  line  as  tliat  of 
the  goat  of  Cashmere,  but  it  is  not  to  be  procured 
in  sufficient  (juan titles. 

The  ahsahta,  argali,  or  bighorn,  on  the  con- 
trary, has  short  hair  like  a  deer,  and  resembles  it 
in  shape,  but  lias  the  head  and  horns  of  a  sheep, 
and  its  flesh  is  said  to  be  a  delicious  mutton. 
The  Indians  consider  it  more  sweet  and  delicate 
than  any  other  kind  of  venison.  It  abounds  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  fi'om  the  fiftieth  degree  of 
north  latitude,  quite  down  to  California ;  gener- 
ally in  the  highest  regions  capable  of  vegetation  ; 
sometimes  it  ventures  into  the  valleys,  but  on  the 
least  alarm,  regains  its  favorite  cliffs  and  preci- 
pices, where  it  is  perilous,  if  not  impossible  for 
the  hunter  to  follow.^ 

1  Dimensions  of  a  male  of  this  species,  from  the  nose  to  tho 
base  of  the  tail,  five  feet;  len{?th  of  the  tail,  four  inches;  girth 
of  the  boily,  four  feet;  height,  three  foot  oight  inches;  the 
horn,  three  feet  six  inches  loDic;  one  foot  tliree  inches  in  cir- 
ciunfljreucti  at  base. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

An  alarm. — Crow  Indians  —  their  appearance  —  mode  of 
approach —  tlicir  ven{i;eful  errand —  their  curiosity.  —  Hos- 
tihty  between  the  (.'rows  and  Hhickfeet, —  Loving  conduct 
ot'  the  Crows. — Laramie's  I'ork.  —  First  Navi/^ation  of  the 
Nebraska. — Great  elev^ation  of  tlic  country. —  IJarit^' of  the 
atmosphere  —  its  effect  on  the  wood-work  of  waj^ons. 
—  Black  Hills  —  their  wild  and  broken  scenery.  —  Indian 
doj^s.  —  Crow  trophies  — Sterile  and  dreary  country. — 
Uanks  of  the  Sweet  Water.  —  Buft'ulo  hunting.  —  Adven- 
ture of  Tom  Cain,  the  Irish  cook. 


HEN  on  the  march,  Captain  Bonneville 
always  .sent  some  of  his  bust  iiunters  in 
the  advance  to  reconnoitre  the  conntry, 
a.s  well  as  to  look  out  for  game.  On  tlie  24th 
of  May,  as  the  cai'avan  was  slowly  journeying 
up  the  banks  of  the  Nebraska,  the  iiunters  came 
galloping  back,  waving  their  caps,  and  giving  tho 
alai'm  cry,  Indians  !   Indians  ! 

The  captain  immediately  ordered  a  halt :  tho 
hunters  now  came  up  and  announced  that  a  lai'ge 
war-party  of  Crow  Indians  were  just  above,  on 
the  river.  Tiie  captain  knew  the  character  of 
those  savages  ;  one  of  the  most  roving,  warlike, 
crafty,  and  predatory  tribes  of  the  mountains 
horse-stealers  of  the  first  order,  and  easily  pro- 
voked to  acts  of  sanjifuinarv  violence.  Orders 
were  accordingly  given  to  prepare  for  action,  and 


'I    ] 


60 


B ONNE  VILLir S  AD  VENTURES, 


i  1^  i  ft 


i  lull 


every  one  promptly  took  the  post  tlmt  had  been 
RPsit^ried  him,  in  the  general  or<ler  of  the  march, 
in  all  cases  of  warlike  emergeiury. 

Everything  being  put  in  battle  array,  the  cap- 
tain took  the  lead  of  his  little  band,  and  moved 
on  slowly  and  warily.  In  a  .lule  while  he  be- 
Ijeld  the  Crow  warriors  enunging  from  among 
the  bluffs.  There  were  about  sixty  of  them ; 
fine  martial-looking  fellows,  painted  and  arrayed 
for  .var,  and  mounted  on  horses  decked  out  with 
all  kinds  of  wild  trappings.  They  came  pranc- 
ing along  in  gallant  style,  with  many  wild  and 
dexterous  evolutions,  for  none  can  surpass  them 
in  horsemanshij) ;  and  their  bright  colors,  and 
flaunting  and  fantastic  embellishments,  glaring 
and  sparkling  in  the  morning  sunshine,  gave  them 
really  a  striking  appe;u'ance. 

Their  mode  of  approach,  to  one  not  acquainted 
with  the  tactics  and  ceremonies  of  this  rude  chiv- 
alry of  the  wilderness,  had  an  air  of  dii-ect  hos- 
tility. They  came  galloping  forward  in  a  Ixjdy, 
as  if  about  to  make  a  furious  charge,  but,  when 
close  at  hand,  opened  to  the  right  and  left,  and 
wheeled  in  wide  circles  round  the  travellers, 
whooping  and  yelling  like  maniacs. 

This  done,  their  mock  fuiy  sank  into  a  calm, 
and  the  chief,  approaching  the  captjiin,  who  had 
remained  warily  d/awn  up,  though  informed  of 
the  pacific  nature  of  the  maiueuvre,  extended  to 
him  the  hand  of  fi'iendship.  The  pipe  of  peace 
was  smoked,  and  now  all  was  good  fellowship. 

The  Crows  were  in  pursuit  of  a  band  of  Chey- 
ennes,  who  had  attacked  their  village  in  the  night, 


INDTAN  CUR  r  OS  FT  r. 


61 


and  killed  one  of  their  people.  They  had  al ready 
been  five  and  twenty  «lays  on  the  track  of  the 
manuiders,  and  were  detc^rmined  not  to  return 
hojne  until  tlu^y  had  sated  their  reven;;e. 

A  few  days  previously,  some  of  their  scouts, 
who  were  ranging  the  country  at  a  distance  from 
the  main  body,  had  discovered  the  party  of  Cap- 
tain Ronneville.  Tlu;y  had  dogged  it  for  a  time 
in  secret,  astonished  at  the  long  train  of  wagons 
and  oxen,  and  especially  struck  with  the  sight  of 
a  cow  and  calf,  quietly  following  the  caravan  ; 
gupposing  tiiem  to  be  some  kind  of  tame  buffalo. 
Having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  carried  bnck 
to  their  chief  intelligence  of  all  that  thev  had 
seen.  lie  had,  in  consequence,  diverged  from 
his  pursuit  of  vengeance  to  behold  the  wondei-s 
described  to  him.  "  Now  that  we  have  met  you," 
said  he  to  Captain  Bomieville,  "  and  have  seen 
these  marvels  with  our  own  eyes,  our  hearts  are 
glad. "  In  fact,  nothing  could  exceed  the  curios- 
ity eviticed  by  these  people  as  to  the  objects  be- 
fore them.  Wagons  had  never  been  seen  by  them 
before,  and  they  examined  them  with  the  greatest 
minuteness ;  but  the  calf  was  the  peculiar  object 
of  their  admiration.  They  watched  it  with  in- 
tense interest  as  it  licked  the  hands  accustomed 
to  feed  it,  and  were  struck  with  the  mild  expres- 
sion of  its  countenance  and  its  perfect  docility. 

Afte  much  sage  consultation,  they  at  length 
determined  that  it  muGt  be  the  "  great  medicine  " 
of  the  white  party  ;  an  appellation  given  by  the 
Indians  to  anything  of  stipematural  and  myste- 
tious  power,  that  is  guarded  as  a  talisman.     They 


62 


BONNEVILLFTS  ADVENTURES. 


?i  '!|it^ 


h    ' 


were  completely  thrown  out  in  their  conjecture^ 
however,  by  an  offer  of  the  white  men  to  ex- 
change the  calf  for  a  horse;  their  estimation  of 
tlie  j^reat  medicine  sank  in  an  instant,  and  they 
declined  the  bargain. 

At  the  request  of  the  Crow  chieftain  the  two 
parties  encamped  together,  and  passed  the  residue 
of  the  day  in  company.  The  captain  was  well 
pleased  with  every  opportunity  to  gain  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  "  unsopliisticatcd  sons  of  nature,'*  who 
lu»d  so  long  been  objects  of  his  poetic  specula- 
tions ;  and  indeed  this  wild,  horse-stealing  tribe 
is  one  of  the  most  notorious  of  the  mountains. 
The  chief,  of  course,  had  his  scalps  to  sliow  and 
his  battles  to  recount.  The  Blackfoot  is  the 
Iiereditary  enemy  of  the  Crow,  towards  whom 
hostility  is  like  a  cheris!  jd  principle  of  religion  ; 
for  every  tribe,  besides  its  casual  antagonists,  has 
some  endurinjT  foe  with  whom  there  can  be  no 
permanent  reconciliation.  The  Crows  and  Black- 
feet,  upon  the  whole,  are  enemies  worthy  of  each 
other,  beiuK  rojjues  and  ruffians  of  the  first  water. 
As  their  predatory  excursions  extend  over  tlie 
same  regions,  they  often  come  in  contact  with 
each  other,  and  these  casual  conflicts  serve  to 
keep   their   wits  awake  and  their  passions  alive. 

The  present  party  of  Crows,  however,  evinced 
nothing  of  the  invidious  character  for  which  they 
are  renowFied.  During  the  day  and  night  that 
they  were  encamped  in  company  with  the  travel- 
lers, tlieir  conduct  was  friendly  in  the  extreme. 
They  were,  in  fact,  quite  irksome  in  their  atten- 
tions, and  had  a  caressing  man»ier  at  times  quite 


I] 


.'^ 


I  I 


LARAMIE'S   FORK. 


63 


fijecture, 
1  to  ex- 
ation  of 
nd   tliey 

the  two 
residue 
'^{is  well 
kiiowl- 
re,"  who 
spectiiji- 
ig  tribe 


importunate.  It  was  not  until  after  separation 
ofi  the  following  morning,  that  tiie  captain  and 
his  men  ascertained  the  secret  of  all  this  loving- 
kindness.  In  the  course  of  their  fraternal  ca- 
resses, the  Crows  had  contrived  to  empty  tiie 
pockets  of  their  white  brothers ;  to  abstract  the 
very  buttons  from  their  coats,  and,  above  all,  to 
make  free  witli  their  hunting  knives. 

By  equal  {dtitudes  of  tlie  sun,  taken  at  this 
last  encampment,  Captain  Bonneville  ascertained 
his  latitude  to  be  41°  47'  north.  The  thermom- 
eter, at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  stood  at  fifty- 
nine  degrees  ;  at  two  o'clock,  p.  m.,  at  ninety-two 
degrees ;  and  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  at  sev- 
enty degrees. 

The  Black  Mills,  or  Mountains,  now  began  to 
be  seen  at  a  distance,  printing  the  horizon  wi'b 
their  ruij^ijed  and  broken  outlines  ;  and  threaten- 
ing  to  oppose  a  ditiicult  barrier  in  the  way  of 
the  travellers. 

On  tlie  2Gth  of  May,  the  travellers  encamped 
at  Laramie's  Fork,  a  clear  and  beautiful  stream, 
rising  in  the  west-southwest,  maintaining  an 
average  width  of  twenty  yards,  and  winding 
through  broad  meadows  abounding  in  currants 
nnd  gooseberries,  and  adorned  with  groves  and 
clumps  of  trees. 

By  an  observation  of  Jupiter's  satellites,  with 
R  D(jlland  reflecting  telescope,  Captain  Bonneville 
ascertained  the  longitude  to  be  102°  o7'  west  of 
Greenwich. 

We  will  here  step  ahead  of  our  narrative  to 
nbserve,  that  about  three  years  after  the  time  of 


\<  n-  II  III 


M 


, 

, 

■l  1 

'   1     ' 

i  i 

I 

;  :•       \\  \ 

1    ; 

1 

1 
1 

1 

[!i 

i' 

"'   1 

' 

il 

64 


nONNEVTLLFTS  ADVENTURES. 


which  we  are  treat iiiG:,  ]\Ir.  Robert  Campbell,  for- 
merly of  tlie  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company, 
descended  the  Platte  from  this  fork,  in  skin  ca- 
noes,  thus  proving,  what  had  always  been  dis- 
credited, that  the  river  was  navigable.  About 
the  same  time,  he  built  a  fort  or  trading  post  at 
Laramie's  Fork,  which  he  named  Fort  William, 
after  his  friend  and  partner,  Mr.  William  Sub- 
lette. Since  that  time,  the  Platte  has  become  a 
highway  for  the  fur  traders. 

For  some  days  past,  Captain  Bonneville  had 
been  made  sensible  of  the  great  elevation  of 
country  into  which  he  was  gradually  ascending, 
by  the  etfect  of  the  dryness  and  rarefaction  of 
the  atmosphere  upon  his  wagons.  The  wood- 
work shrunk ;  the  paint  boxes  of  the  wheels 
were  continually  working  out,  and  it  was  neces- 
sai'y  to  support  the  spokes  by  stout  props  to  pre- 
vent their  falling  asunder.  The  travellers  were 
now  entering  one  of  those  great  step[)e8  of  the 
Far  West,  where  the  prevalent  aridity  of  the  at- 
mosphere renders  the  country  unfit  for  cultiva- 
tion. In  these  regions  there  is  a  fresh  sweet 
growth  of  grass  in  the  spring,  but  it  is  scanty 
and  short,  and  parches  up  in  the  course  of  the 
summer,  so  that  there  is  none  for  the  hunters  to 
set  fire  to  in  the  autumn.  It  is  a  common  ob- 
servation, that  "  above  the  forks  of  the  Platte 
the  grass  does  not  burn."  All  attempts  at  agri- 
culture and  gardening  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Fort  William,  have  been  attended  with  very  little 
success.  The  gniin  and  vegetables  raised  there 
have  be<Jn  scanty  in  quantity  an<l  poor  in  quality. 


1 

4 

T 

n( 
in 

ell 

i 

Cr 

1 

tilt 

t 

K.i 

1 

stn 

1 

d;i\ 
tlin 

1 

Wil^ 

ing 

INDIAN  DOGS. 


65 


The  preat  clovaiion  of  tliese  plains,  and  tlie  dry- 
iit\<5s  of  the  atmosphere,  will  tend  to  retain  these 
immense  rej^ions  in  a  state  of  pristine  wildness. 

In  the  course  of  a  day  or  two  more,  the  trav- 
ellers entered  that  wild  and  broken  tract  of  the 
Crow  country  calh'd  the  Black  Hills,  and  here 
their  journey  became  toilsome  in  the  extreme. 
Kiigiied  steeps  and  deep  ravines  incessantly  ob- 
structed their  progress,  so  that  a  great  part  of  the 
day  was  spent  in  the  painful  toil  of  digging 
through  banks,  filling  up  ravines,  forcing  the 
wagons  up  the  most  forbidding  ascents,  or  swing- 
ing them  with  ropes  down  the  face  of  dangerous 
precipices.  The  shoes  of  their  horses  were  worn 
out,  and  their  feet  injured  by  the  rugged  and 
stony  roads.  The  travellers  were  annoyed  also 
by  frequent  but  brief  storms,  which  would  come 
hurrying  over  the  hills,  or  through  the  mountain 
defiles,  rage  with  great  fury  for  a  short  time,  and 
then  pjiss  off,  leaving  everything  calm  and  serene 


agam. 


For  several  nights  the  camp  had  been  infested 
\<y  vagabond  Indian  dogs,  prowling  about  in  quest 
of  food.  They  were  about  the  size  of  a  large 
pointer ;  with  ears  short  and  erect,  and  a  long 
bushy  tail  —  allogether,  they  bore  a  striking  re- 
semblance to  a  wolf.  These  skulking  visitora 
would  keep  about  the  purlieus  of  the  camp  until 
diiylight ;  when,  on  the  first  stir  of  life  among 
the  sleepers,  they  would  scam|)er  of!  until  they 
reached  some  rising  ground,  where  they  would 
take  their  seats,  and  keep  a  sharp  aid  hungry 
watch  upon  every  movement.     The  moment  the 


llii    Piliil  :! 


1 


Ml 
P 


111  il^^ 


66 


B ONNE  VILLF:H  A D  YEN  Tl  RES. 


ti'iivellers  were  fairly  on  the  march,  and  the  camp 
Was  abandoned,  these  starveling  hangers-on  would 
hasten  to  the  deserted  fires  to  seize  upon  the 
half-picked  bones,  the  offals  and  garbage  that  lay 
about ;  and,  having  made  a  hasty  meal,  with 
many  a  snap  and  snarl  and  growl,  would  follow 
leisui'ely  on  the  trail  of  the  caravan.  Many  at- 
tempts were  made  to  coax  or  catch  them,  but  in 
vain.  Their  quick  and  suspicious  eyes  caught 
the  slightest  sinister  movement,  and  they  turned 
and  scampered  off.  At  length  one  was  taken, 
lie  was  terribly  alarmed,  and  crouched  and  trem- 
bled as  if  expecting  instant  death.  Soothed, 
however,  by  caresses,  he  began  after  a  time 
to  gather  confidence  and  wag  his  tail,  and  at 
length  was  brought  to  follow  close  at  the  heels 
of  his  captors,  still,  however,  darting  around  fur- 
tive and  suspicious  glances,  and  evincing  a  dispo- 
sition to  seal*. per  off  upon  the  least  alarm. 

On  the  first  of  July  the  band  of  Crow  war- 
riors again  crossed  their  path.  They  came  in 
vaunting  and  vainglorious  style ;  displaying  five 
Cheyenne  scalps,  the  trophies  of  their  vengeance. 
They  were  now  bound  homewards,  to  appease 
the  manes  of  their  comrade  by  these  proofs  that 
his  death  had  been  revenged,  and  intended  to 
have  scalp-dances  and  other  triumphant  rejoic- 
ings. Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men,  however, 
were  by  no  means  disposed  to  renew  their  con- 
fiding intimacy  with  these  crafty  savages,  and 
above  all,  took  care  to  avoid  their  pilfeiing  ca- 
resses. They  remarked  one  preciuition  of  tiie 
Crows  with  respect  to   their  horses ;    to  protect 


an 

til 


Th 


ROUTE   OF    rilE    TKAVKLLKHS. 


m 


Jieir  lioof^  from  tlm  sharp  and  j>'«gjre(l  rocika 
amoiif;  wliicli  tliey  liud  to  pass,  tliey  had  covered 
them  u'itli  shoes  or  buHf'alo  h'nle. 

Tlie  route  of  tlie  travellers  lay  generally  along 
the  course  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte,  but  occa- 
eiunally,  where  steep  promontories  advanced  to 
the  mar^tin  of  the  stream,  they  wore  obliged  to 
mike  irdand  circuits.  One  of  these  took  theui 
through  a  bold  and  stern  country,  bordered  by  a 
I'ange  of  low  mountains,  running  eiist  and  west. 
Everytiiing  around  bore  traces  of  some  fearful 
convulsion  of  nature  in  times  long  pas^  Hith- 
erto the  various  strata  of  rock  had  exhibited 
a  gentle  elevation  towards  the  southwest,  but 
here  everything  appeared  to  have  been  subverted, 
and  thrown  out  of  place.  In  many  places  thero 
were  heavy  beds  of  white  sandstone  resting  upon 
red.  Inmiense  strata  of  rocks  jutted  up  into 
crags  and  cliffs;  and  sometimes  formed  perpen- 
dicular walls  and  overhanging  precipices.  An 
air  of  sterility  prevailed  over  these  savage  wastes. 
The  valleys  were  destitute  of  herbage,  and 
scantily  clothed  with  a  stunted  species  of  worm- 
wood, genei'ally  known  among  traders  and  trap- 
pers by  the  name  of  sage.  From  an  elevated 
point  of  their  march  through  this  region,  the 
travellers  Ciiuiirht  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Powder 
River  Mountains  away  to  the  north,  stretching 
Along  the  very  verge  of  the  horizon,  and  seem- 
ing, from  the  snow  with  winch  they  were  man- 
tled, to  be  a  chain  of  small  white  clouds,  connect- 
u»g  sky  and  eartii. 

Thoi.gh   the    thermometer    at    midday  ranged 


rir 


C8 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVKNTUltES. 


i||i 


I     I 
1   *     It 


i 


1,1' 
I  << 


from  eighty  to  ninety,  and  oven  sometimes  rose 
to  ninety-three  degrees,  yet  oecasional  spots  of 
Know  were  to  be  seen  on  the  tops  of  ihe  low 
tnountains,  ainofig  whicii  the  travellers  were 
jonrneying;  proofs  of  the  great  elevation  of  the 
whole  region. 

The  Nebraska,  in  its  passage  through  the 
l^hick  Hills,  is  confined  to  a  much  narrower 
channel  than  that  through  which  it  flows  in  the 
plains  below  ;  but  it  is  deeper  and  clearer,  and 
rushes  with  a  stroFiger  current.  The  scenery, 
also,  is  more  varied  and  beautiful.  Sometimes 
it  glides  rapidly  but  smootlily  through  a  pictur- 
esque valley,  between  wooded  banks ;  then,  forc- 
ing its  way  into  the  bosom  of  rugged  mountains, 
it  rushes  impetuously  through  narrow  defiles, 
roaring  and  foaming  down  rocks  and  rapids,  until 
it  is  again  soothed  to  rest  in  some  peaceful  val- 
ley. 

On  the  12th  of  July,  Captain  Bonneville  aban- 
doned the  main  stream  of  the  Nebraska,  which 
was  contiiuially  shouldered  by  rugged  promon- 
tories, and  making  a  bend  to  the  southwest,  for  a 
couple  of  days,  part  of  the  time  over  plains  of 
loose  sand,  encamped  on  the  14th,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Sweet  Water,  a  stream  about  twenty 
yards  in  breadth,  and  four  or  five  feet  deep,  flow- 
ing between  low  banks  over  a  sandy  soil,  and 
tbrming  one  of  the  forks  or  upper  branches  of 
the  Nebraska.  Up  this  stream  they  now  shaped 
their  course  for  several  successive  days,  tending, 
generally,  to  the  west.  The  soil  was  light  and 
gaudy ;     the    country    much    diversified.       Fre- 


V 


TOM   CAIN   THE  COOK. 


69 


quently  the  plains  were  studded  with  isolated 
blocks  of  rock,  sometimes  in  tlie  shape  of  a 
half  globe,  and  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet 
hi^di.  These  singular  masses  had  occasionally  a 
\(iry  imposing,  and  even  sublime  appearance,  ris- 
ing from  the  midst  of  a  savage  and  lonely  land- 
Bcape. 

As  the  travellers  continued  to  advance,  they 
became  more  and  more  sensible  of  the  elevation 
of  the  country.  Tlie  hills  around  were  more 
generally  capped  with  snow.  The  men  com- 
plained of  cramps  and  colics,  sore  lips  and  mouths, 
and  violent  headaches.  The  wood-work  of  the 
wagons  also  shrank  so  much,  that  it  was  with 
(lifliculty  the  wheels  were  kept  from  falling  to 
pieces.  The  country  bordering  upon  the  river 
W{vs  frequently  gashed  with  deep  ravines,  or 
traversed  by  high  bluffs,  to  avoid  which,  tlie 
tiavellers  were  obliged  to  make  wide  circuits 
through  the  plains.  In  the  course  of  these,  they 
came  upon  immense  herds  of  buffalo,  which  kept 
scouring  off  in  the  van,  like  a  retreating  army. 

Among  the  motley  retainers  of  the  camp  was 
Tom  Cain,  a  raw  Irishman,  who  officiated  as 
cook,  whose  various  blunders  and  expedients  in 
his  novel  situation,  and  in  the  wild  scenes  and 
wild  kind  of  life  into  which  he  had  suddenly 
been  thrown,  had  made  him  a  kind  of  butt  or 
\lroll  of  the  camp.  Tom,  however,  began  to  dis- 
cover an  ambition  superior  to  his  station  ;  and 
the  conversation  of  the  hunters,  and  their  stories 
of  their  exploits,  inspired  him  with  a  desire  to 
slevate   himself   to    the    dignity  of   their    order 


f1 


pli 


70 


B ONNE  VI LL ETS  AD  VENTURES, 


The  buffalo  in  such  immense  droves  presented  a 
tempting  opportunity  for  making  iiis  first  essay. 
He  rode,  in  the  line  of  mareii,  all  prepared  for 
acrtion :  his  powdei'-finsk  and  sliot-j>onch  know- 
inijiy  shnig  at  the  ponmiel  of  liis  saddle,  to  he  at 
hand  ;  his  rifle  balanced  on  his  shoulder.  While 
in  this  {)li.i][ht,  a  troop  of  buffalo  came  trotting  by 
in  great  alarm.  In  an  instant,  Tom  sprang  from 
his  horse  and  gave  chase  on  foot.  Finding  they 
were  leaving  him  beiiii  d,  he  levelled  his  rifle  and 
pulled  trigger.  iWs  ■  V-oi  produced  no  other  ef- 
fect than  to  increa.  the  "^^  eed  of  the  buffalo,  and 
to  frighten  his  own  horse,  who  took  to  his  heels, 
and  scampered  off  with  all  the  ammunition. 
Tom  scampered  after  him,  hallooing  with  might 
and  main,  and  the  wild  horse  and  wild  Irishman 
Boon  disappeared  among  the  ravines  of  the  prairie. 
Captain  Bonneville,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the 
line,  and  had  seen  the  transaction  at  a  distance, 
detached  a  party  in  pursuit  of  Torn.  After  a 
long  interval  they  returned,  leading  the  frightened 
horse ;  but  though  they  had  scoured  the  country, 
and  looked  out  and  shouted  from  every  height, 
they  had  seen  nothing  of  his  rider. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  knew  Tom's  utter 
awkwardness  and  inexperience,  and  the  dangers 
of  a  bewildered  Irishman  in  the  midst  of  a  prairie, 
he  halted  and  encamped  at  an  early  hour,  that 
there  might  be  a  regular  hunt  for  him  in  the 
morning. 

At  early  dawn  on  the  following  day  scouts  were 
sent  off  in  every  direction,  while  the  main  body, 
after    breakfast,  proceeded  slowly  on  its  course. 


Ik. 

■ 

TOMS  RETDRN. 


ft 


It  was  not  until  tho  middlo  of  the  afternoon  that 
tlie  hunters  retiirneil,  witli  honest  Tom  mounted 
behhid  one  of  them.  They  had  found  hhn  hi  a 
complete  state  of  |)erplexity  and  amazement.  Ilis 
appeiirance  caused  shouts  of  merriment  in  tho 
mmp,  —  but  Tom  for  once  could  not  join  in  the 
(uirth  raised  at  his  expense :  he  was  completely 
diapfallen,  and  apparently  cured  of  the  hunting 
mania  for  Jie  rest  of  his  Ufe. 


CIIAPTKR  V. 

Mngnificpnt  scenery.  —  W.'nd  River  Mountains.  —  Treasury 
of  waters.  —  A  stray  liar.se.  —  An  Indian  trail.  —  Trout 
Btreains.  —  The  Cireat  Cnen  Uiver  Valie}'.  —  An  alarm.  — 
A  band  of  trappers.  —  Fou  e^ielle,  his  information.  —  SulVor- 
inf^s  of  thirst.  —  Kniamp\nent  on  the  Seods-ke-dee.  — 
Stratef^y  of  ri/al  traders.  — Fortilication  of  the  camp. — 
The  IJIackfeet.  —  Banditti  ( f  the  mountains.  —  Their  char- 
acter and  habits. 


i}  Lf 


T  was  on  tlie  20th  of  July  that  CaptJiin 
Bonneville  first  came  in  siyht  of  the  ijrand 
region  of  his  hopes  ami  anticipations,  the 
Kocky  JMoiuitains.  lie  had  heen  making  a  hend 
to  tlie  south,  to  avoid  some  obstacles  along  the 
river,  and  liad  attained  a  high,  rocky  ridge,  when 
a  magnificent  prospect  burst  upon  his  sight.  To 
the  west,  rose  the  Wind  River  JMonntains,  with 
their  bleached  and  snowy  summits  towering  into 
the  clouds.  These  stretched  far  to  the  north-north- 
west, until  they  melted  away  into  what  appeared 
to  be  faint  clouds,  but  which  the  experienctid  eyes 
of  the  veteran  hunters  of  the  party  recognized  for 
the  ruui^ed  mountains  of  the  Yellowstone ;  at  the 
feet  of  which,  extended  the  wild  Crow  country : 
a  })erilous,  though,  prolitiiblc  region  for  the  trapper. 
To  the  southwest,  the  eye  ranged  over  an  im- 
mense extent  of  wilderness,  with  what  appeared 
to  be  a  snowy  vapor  resting    upon  its  horizon. 


WIXD   RIVER   .\fOUM TAINS. 


73 


This,  however,  was  pohitod  out  as  another  braru^h 
of  the  Great  Chippewyan,  or  Rocky  chain  ;  hv.'uig 
the  Eiitaw  Mountains,  at  whose  basis,  t\u)  waiuler- 
ini;  tribe  of  hunters  of  the  same  name  pitch  tljeir 
tents. 

AVe  cjxn  imagine  the  entluisiasm  of  the  worthy 
captain,  when  he  beheld  the  vast  and  mountainous 
scene  of  liis  adventurous  enterprise  thus  suddenly 
unveiled  before  him.  We  can  imagine  with  what 
fciilini^s  of  awe  and  admiration  he  must  have  con- 
templated the  Wind  Ilivcr  Sierra,  or  bed  of  moun- 
tains ;  that  i^reat  fountain-head,  from  whose  sprin<^s, 
and  lakes,  and  melted  snows,  some  of  those  mighty 
rivers  take  their  rise,  whicli  wander  over  hundreds 
of  miles  of  varied  country  and  clime,  and  lind 
tluMr  way  to  the  opposite  waves  of  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific. 

The  Whid  River  INIountains  are,  in  fact,  among 
tlu;  most  remarkable  of  the  whole  Rocky  chain  ; 
and  would  appear  to  be  among  the  loftiest.  They 
foi'm,  as  it  were,  a  great  bed  of  mountains,  about 
eighty  miles  in  length,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty 
in  breadth  ;  with  rugged  peaks,  covered  with  eter 
nal  snows,  and  deep,  narrow  valleys,  full  of  springs, 
and  brooks,  and  rock-bound  lakes.  From  this 
great  treasury  of  waters,  issue  forth  limpid  streams, 
which,  auixmentiuij:  as  they  descend,  become  main 
tributaries,  of  the  Missouri  on  the  one  side,  and 
the  Columbia  on  the  other ;  and  give  rise  to  the 
8eeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green  River,  the  great  Col- 
orado of  the  West,  that  empties  its  current  into 
the  Gulf  of  California. 

The  Wind  River  Mountains  are  notorious  in 


1 1 


FT 


74 


n ONS E VI L LF:S  AD\ 'FN TUR ES. 


n 


i('!;i::l 


I  ll'i 


Imiitcrs'  and  trappers'  stories:  tlicir  ruffi^od  defilos, 
and  the  roiii^h  tracts  about  their  nei<:hhorhoo<1, 
liavirii^  h(!eii  hirkin<^-phices  for  the  predatory 
hordes  of  tht;  mountains,  and  scenes  of  roui^di 
encounter  with  Crows  and  IJhxkftiet.  It  w:us  to 
tlie  west  of  these  mountains  in  the  valU^y  of  tlie 
Seeds-ke-deo  Aijjie,  or  Green  River,  that  Captain 
lionnevilI(!  intended  to  make  a  halt,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  .i^ivin<^  repose  to  his  peoj)le  and  his  liorses^ 
after  tlieir  weary  journeyi^i^ ;  {ii»d  of  collecting 
information  as  to  his  future  course.  This  Green 
lliver  Valley,  and  its  inunediate  neighborhood,  as 
we  liave  already  observed,  formed  the  main  point 
of  rendezvous,  for  the  prescint  year,  of  the  rival 
fur  companico,  and  the  motley  populace,  civilized 
and  savage,  connected  with  them.  Several  days 
of  rugged  travel,  however,  yet  remaiiuul  for  the 
captain  and  his  men,  before  they  should  encamp 
iii  this  desired  resting-place. 

On  the  '21st  of  duly,  as  they  were  pursuing 
their  course  through  one  of  the  meadows  of  the 
Sweet  Water,  they  beheld  a  horse  grazing  at  a 
little  distance.  He  showe<l  no  alarm  at  their  ap- 
proach, but  suffered  himself  quietly  to  be  taken, 
evincing  a  perfect  state  of  tameness.  The  scouts 
of  the  party  were  instantly  on  the  lookout  for 
the  owners  of  this  animal ;  lest  some  dangerous 
band  of  savages  might  be  lurking  in  the  vicinity. 
After  a  narrow  search,  they  discovered  the  trail 
of  an  Indian  party,  which  had  evidently  passed 
through  that  neighborhood  but  recently.  The 
horse  was  accordingly  taken  possession  of,  as 
tu  estray  ;  but  a  more  vigilant  watch  than  usual 


Nil 


r'  I 


TROUT  RTUEAM, 


75 


mis  kept  round  tho  ('.'iiiip  :it  iiii;lits,  lost  his  forra<^r 
owners  should  ht»  upon  tlur  prowh 

TIio  travt'lh'rs  h;ul  now  attained  so  hi^jh  an 
elevation,  that  ou  tlu;  '2.'»d  of  duly,  .it  dayluvak, 
(here  was  eonsiderahki  i<'e  in  the  wattT-huekets, 
and  th(!  thernioineter  stood  at  twentv-two  de^jrees. 
'V\\<\  rarity  of  the  atmospheric  continued  to  aU'eet 
the  woo<l-work  of  tiu;  waL(on.s,  and  the  wheels 
werii  ineessajjtly  fallini^  to  pieces.  A  remedy  was 
at  k'njTtli  (leviscid.  Tin;  tire  of  oaeli  wheel  was 
tak(M»  off;  a  hand  of  wood  was  nailed  round  the 
exterior  of  the  felloes,  the  tire  was  then  ma(h3  red 
iiot,  repku^ed  round  tlu;  wheel,  and  suddenly  cooled 
with  water.  Hy  this  means,  the  whole  was  hound 
toijetlier  with  ;i^reat  comi)actness. 

The  extreme  elevation  of  these  ijrcat  steppes, 
"■lieh  rani^e  alon<^  the  feet  of  tlu;  Kocky  ]Moun- 
tuins,  tiike  away  from  the  seemins^  heiirht  of  their 
peaks,  which  yield  to  few  in  tlu;  known  world  in 
point  of  altitude  al)ov(i  the  level  of  the  sea. 

On  the  21  til,  the  travellers  took  final  leave  of 
the  Sweet  Water,  and  keeping  westwardly,  over 
a  low  atid  very  rocky  ridij^e,  one  of  the  most 
southern  spurs  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains, 
they  encami)ed,  after  a  manth  of  seven  hours  and 
a  half,  on  the  hanks  of  a  small  clear  stream,  run- 
ninj^  to  the  south,  in  which  they  caught  a  number 
of  tine  trout. 

The  sight  of  thc^e  fish  was  hailed  with  pleas- 
ure, as  a  sign  that  diey  had  reached  the  waters 
which  fiow  into  the  Pacific ;  for  it  is  only  on  the 
western  streams  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  tliat 
trout  are   to  be  taken.     The   stream  on    which 


i| 


i    I 


76 


D  ONNI'J  VILLE' S  AD  VEN T UR ES. 


Lliey  had  tlius  encam[)efl,  proved;  in  effect,  to  be 
tributary  to  the  Seeds-ke-dee  Agie,  or  Green 
River,  into  which  it  flowed,  at  some  distance  to 
the  south. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  considered  liimst.'lf  as 
having  fairly  passed  the  crest  of  tlie  Rocky 
Mountains  ;  and  felt  some  degree  of  exultation  in 
being  the  iirst  individual  that  had  crossed,  north 
of  the  settled  provinces  of  Mexico,  from  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  to  those  of  the  Pacific, 
with  wagons.  Mr.  William  Sublette,  the  enter- 
prising leader  of  the  Rocky  JMountain  Fur  Com- 
pany had,  two  or  three  years  previously,  readied 
the  valley  of  the  Wind  River,  which  lies  on  the 
noi-th(!ast  of  the  mountiiins  ;  but  had  })roceeded 
with  them  uo  further. 

A  vast  valley  now  spread  itself  before  the 
travellers,  bounded  on  one  side  by  the  Wind 
River  JMountjiins,  and  to  the  west,  by  a  long  range 
of  high  hills.  This,  Captain  lionneville  was 
assured  by  a  veteran  hunter  in  his  com[)any,  wis 
the  great  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee ;  and  the 
same  informant  would  fain  have  persuade  I  him, 
that  a  small  stream,  three  feet  deep,  which  he 
came  to  on  the  2oth,  was  that  river.  The  captain 
was  convinced,  however,  that  the  stream  was  too 
insignificant  to  drain  so  wide  a  valley  and  the 
adjacent  mountains  :  he  encampe<l,  therefore,  at 
an  early  hour,  on  its  bt^rders,  that  he  might  take 
the  whole  of  the  next  day  to  reach  the  main 
"iver  ;  which  he  presumed  to  flow  between  him 
and  the  distant  range  of  western  hills. 

On  the  2Gth  of  July,  he  commenced  his  mai'ch 


at  ai 

l.-v. 
as  br 

Wi)Ul( 

nioni 

tlu! 

party 

halt, 

ture( 

had 

horse, 

secret 

to   at 

WOll'< 

nu-'dia 
sent  t 


FONT  I.N  ELLE  AND  /J  IS  PARTY. 


77 


ct,  to  be 
r  Green 
itaiice  to 

imscilf  MS 
5  Rocky 
Itatioii  ill 
3(1,  north 
roni  the 
i  Pacific, 
16  enter- 
II  r  Coin- 
reiidied 
s  on  the 
roceeded 

fore   the 

|e   Wind 

i«^  nmiije 

le    WHS 

my,  WIS 

ind    the 

L  I  liini, 

lich   he 

captain 

was   too 

md  the 

tore,  at 

;;ht  take 

(!  main 

en  him 

niai'ch 


at  an  early  honr,  making  directly  across  the  val- 
l(.'y,  towards  the  hills  in  the;  west ;  proceeding  at 
as  hrisk  a  rate  as  the  jaded  condition  of  his  horses 
woiild  permit.  About  eleven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  a  great  cloud  of  dust  'vas  descried  in 
the  rear,  advancing  directly  on  the  trail  of  the 
party.  The  ahirm  was  given  ;  they  all  cjime  to  a 
li.ilt,  and  heM  a  council  of  war.  Some  conjec- 
tured that  the  band  of  Indians,  whose  trail  they 
had  discovered  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  stray 
horse,  had  been  lying  in  wait  for  them,  in  some 
secret  fastness  of  the  mountains ;  and  were  a))out 
to  attack  them  on  the  open  })lain,  where  they 
wou'd  have  no  shelter.  Pre])aration3  were  im- 
mediately made  for  defense ;  and  a  scouting  party 
st^nt  otF  to  reconnoitre.  They  soon  came  gallop- 
ing back,  making  signals  that  all  was  well.  The 
cloud  of  dust  was  made  by  a  band  of  fifty  or  sixty 
mounted  trappers,  belonging  to  the  American  Fur 
Comj.any,  who  soon  came  up,  leading  their  pack- 
horses.  They  were  headed  by  Mr.  Fontenelle, 
an  experienced  leader,  or  "  partisan,"  as  a  chief 
of  a  i)arty  is  called,  in  the  technical  language  of 
tlie  trappers. 

JMr.  Fontenelle  infonned  Captain  Bonneville, 
that  he  was  on  his  way  from  the  company's 
trading  post  on  the  Yellowstone,  to  the  yearly  ren- 
.iezvous,  with  reinforcements  and  supplies  for 
their  hunting  and  trading  })arties  beyond  the 
'ns  :   and   that   he   expected    to    meet,   by 


moun 


appointment,  witb  a  band  of  free  trappers  in  that 
V(!ry  neighborhood.  II(^  had  fallen  upo!i  the  trail 
of  Captain    lionneville's  party,  just  after  leaving 


78 


D  ONNE  V J  LIE'S  A  D  VKN  TUBES 


the  Nebraska  ;  Jiiid,  finding  tluit  they  liail  fright- 
ened off  Jill  tlie  giinie,  had  been  obliged  to  pnsh 
on,  by  forced  niarclies,  to  avoid  famine :  ootli 
men  and  horses  were,  therefore,  much  travel- 
worn  ;  but  this  was  no  place  to  halt ;  the  plain 
before  tbem  he  said,  was  destitute  of  glass  and 
water,  neither  of  vvhlt;h  would  be  met  with  short 
of  the  Green  River,  which  was  yet  at  a  consider- 
able  distance.  He  hoped,  he  added,  as  his  party 
were  all  on  horseback,  to  reach  the  river,  with 
hard  travelling,  by  nigbtfall  :  but  he  doubted  the 
jjossibility  of  Ca})tain  IJonneville's  arrival  there 
with  his  wagons  before  the  day  following.  Hav- 
ing imparted  this  information,  he  pushed  forward 
with  all  speed. 

Captain  IJonneville  followed  on  as  fast  as  cir- 
cumstances would  })ermit.  The  ground  was  lirm 
and  gravelly  ;  ])ut  the  horses  were  too  nnich 
fatigued  U)  move  rapidly.  After  a  long  and 
harassing  day's  march,  without  pausing  for  a 
noontide  meal,  they  were  compelled,  at  nine 
o'clock  al  night,  to  encamp  in  an  open  plain,  des- 
titute of  water  or  pasturage.  On  the  following 
morning,  the  horses  were  turned  loose  at  the  peep 
of  day  ;  to  slake  their  thirst,  if  possible,  from  the 
dew  (jollected  on  the  sparse  grass,  here  and  thei'e 
epringing  up  among  dry  sand-banks.  The  soil  of 
a  great  part  of  this  Green  Uiver  Valley  is  a 
whitish  clay,  into  which  the  rain  cannot  penetrate, 
but  which  dries  and  cracks  with  the  sun.  In 
6ome  j)laces  it  j)roduces  a  salt  weed,  and  grass 
iloni'  tlie  marijius  of  tlu^  stri'ams  ;  bul  ihe  wider 
expanses  of  it  are  ilesolate   and   barren.      It  wiii 


f  jtfiiiin 


STRATA  ay  OF  RIVAL    TRADERS. 


79 


not  until  noon  tliat  Ca|)t:iin  Bonneville  reached 
the  banks  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Colorado  of  the 
West ;  in  the  meantime,  the  suiferings  of  both 
men  and  horses  had  been  excessive,  and  it  was 
with  almosi  frantic  eagerness  that  they  hurried  to 
allay  their  burning  tliirst  in  the  limpid  current  of 
the  river. 

Fontenelle  and  his  party  had  not  fared  much 
better ;  the  chief  [)art  had  managed  to  reach  the 
riv'cr  by  nightfall,  but  were  nearly  knocked  up 
by  the  exeriion  ;  the  horses  of  others  sank  under 
them,  and  they  were  obliged  to  pass  the  night  upon 
the  road. 

On  the  following  morning,  July  27th,  Fon- 
tenelle moved  his  Ciimp  across  the  river  ;  while 
C:!.ptjiin  Bonneville  proceed(;d  some  little  distance 
Ik'Iow,  where  there  was  a  small  but  fresh  meadcnv, 
yielding  ;ibun<lant  pasturages.  Here  the  poor 
jaded  horses  were  turneci  out  to  graze,  and  take 
tlujir  rest:  tlie  weary  Journey  up  the  mountains 
had  worn  them  down  in  llesli  and  spirit ;  but  this 
last  march  across  the  thirsty  plain  had  nearly 
fuiisheil  them. 

The  captain  liad  here  the  first  taste  of  the 
boasted  strategy  of  the  fm-  trade.  During  his 
brief,  but  social  encampnuiit,  in  company  witli 
Fontenelle,  that  experienced  trapper  had  managed 
to  win  over  a  number  of  Delaware  Indians  wiioin 
the  captjiin  liad  brought  with  him,  by  otJ'ering 
thiMu  four  hundred  dollars  eadi,  for  the  ensuing 
lutunmal  hunt.  Tho  captain  was  somtnvhat 
astouished  wIumi  he  saw  th(;se  hunters,  on  vvho.se 
services  he  liad  calculated  securely,  sud<Jenly  puck 


Iff: 


41 


80 


BONNEVILLE'S  AD  VENTURES, 


up  tlusir  tr;ij)s,  juid  ^o  over  to  the  rival  camp. 
That  lie  mi^h',  in  some  tiK^isiire,  however,  be 
cv/en  wJth  hi«  cvuiij)etit(ir,  ho  <lisj)jitehe(l  two  scouts 
to  j'*ok  out  for  the  band  of  free  trappers  wlio 
•»vere  to  meet  FontcMielle  in  this  neighborhood, 
and  to  endeavor  to  bring  them  to  his  camp. 

As  it  would  be  necessary  to  remain  some  time 
in  this  neighlMH'hood,  thnt  both  men  and  horses 
might  repose  and  recruit  their  strength  ;  and  a^s 
it  was  a  region  full  of  danger,  Captain  Bonneville 
pnx^eeded  to  fortify  liis  caiup  with  breastworks 
of  logs  and  pickets. 

These  precautions  were,  at  that  time,  pecul- 
iarly necessary,  from  the  bands  of  Blackfeet  In- 
dians which  were  rovinij  about  the  neiii^hborliood. 
These  savages  are  the  most  dangerous  banditti 
of  the  mountains,  and  the  inveterate  foe  of  the 
trappers.  They  are  Jshmaelites  of  the  first 
order  ;  always  with  weapon  in  hand,  ready  for 
action.  The  young  braves  of  the  tribe,  who  are 
destitute  of  property,  go  to  war  for  booty ;  to 
gain  horses,  and  acipiire  the  means  of  setting  up 
a  lodge,  supporting  a  faiaily,  and  entitling  them- 
selves to  a  seat  in  the  public  counciV'.  The  vet- 
eran warriors  fight  merely  for  the  .'  •ve  of  the 
tluiig,  and  the  consecpu^nce  which  success  gives 
thewj   among   their    peo})le. 

Thejr  are  capitid  hoi'semen.  and  are  generally 
wdl  moiff»ted  on  short,  stout  horses,  similar  to 
th<'  prairie  [>onieK,  to  be  met  with  at  St.  Louis. 
When  on  a  wabf  p:irty,  however,  they  go  on  foot, 
to  enable  thorn  to  !<kulk  throuijh  the  country  with 
g  eAter  secrecy ;  to  keej)  in   thickets  and  ravines, 


%A  i 


THE  BLA  CKFEE  T   I  :V  D I A  NS. 


81 


and  W'**^  ni'jre  adroit  sul)terfuge.s  and  stratui^oms. 
Their  mode  of  warfare  is  entirely  by  anilmsh, 
vnrprise,  and  sndiien  assault?  in  the  niijht  time. 
i!  tliey  succeed  in  c;insing  a  j)anic,  they  dasli  for- 
vvanl  with  a  headloni;  fury :  if  the  enemy  is  on 
tlie  alert,  and  shows  no  signs  of  fear,  they  become 
wary  aiui  deliberate  in  their  movements. 

Some  of  them  are  armed  in  the  primitive  stylo, 
iv'ith  bows  and  arrows ;  the  greater  part  have 
American  fusees,  made  after  the  fashion  of  those 
of  the  lIudsL  -s  I5ay  Comj)any.  These  they  pro- 
cure at  the  tradmg  p(jstof  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, on  IMarias  Kiver,  where  they  traffic  their  pel- 
tries for  arms,  ammunition,  clothing,  and  trinkets. 
They  are  extremely  fond  of  spirituous  li(|aors 
and  tobacco ;  for  which  nuisances  they  are  /i^ady 
to  exchange,  not  merely  their  guns  and  hordes, 
but  even  their  wives  and  daughters.  As  tlicsy 
are  a  trea<^herous  race,  and  have  cherished  a  lurk- 
ing hostility  to  the  whites  ever  since  one  of  their 
tribe  wjis  killed  by  ^Ir.  Lewis,  the  associate  of 
(ieneral  Clarke,  in  bis  exploring  expedition  across 
the  Uocky  Mountains,  the  American  Fur  Com- 
j)any  is  obliged  constitntly  to  keep  at  that  post  a 
garrison  of  sixty  or  seventy  men. 

Under  the  general  name  of  Klackfeet,  are  com- 
[jrehended  sev(;ral  tribes :  sucli  as  the  Surcies, 
the  Peagans,  the  Blood  Indians,  and  the  Gros 
Ventres  of  the  Prairies :  who  roam  about  the 
southern  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Mis- 
Bouri  rivers,  together  with  some  other  tribes  fur- 
ther north. 

The  bands  infesting  the  Wind  River  Moim- 


M 

I, 


m 


( 


w 


;, 


82 


BONNE  VILLUrS  AU  M  NTURES, 


n^ 


I'tins,  and  tlie  country  adjjicent,  at  the  time  of 
which  wo  are  treating,  were  (iros  Ventres  of  the 
Pniiries,  which  are  not  to  he  confounded  with 
G?"os  Ventres  of  the  Missouri,  who  keep  ahout 
the  lower  part  of  that  river,  and  are  friendly  to 
the  white  men. 

This  hostile  hand  keeps  ahout  the  head  watcra 
of  the  Missouri,  and  numhers  ahout  nine  hun- 
dred tiijlitinir  men.  Once  in  the  course  of  two 
or  three  years  they  ahandon  their  usual  ahodes, 
and  make  a  visit  to  the  Arapahoes  of  the  Ar- 
kansas. Their  route  lies  either  through  the 
Crow  country,  and  the  Black  Hills,  or  through 
the  lands  of  tlie  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  l^an- 
nacks,  and  Shoshonies.  As  they  enjoy  their 
favorite  state  of  hostility  with  all  these  trihes, 
tlieir  expeditions  are  prone  to  he  conducted  in 
the  most  lawless  and  pn^datory  style ;  nor  do 
they  hesitate  to  extend  their  maraudings  to  any 
party  of  white  men  they  meet  w'th ;  following 
their  trails ;  hcvering  ahout  their  canij)s ;  way- 
laying and  dogging  the  caravans  of  the  freo 
traders,  an<l  nnirdejing  the  solitary  trapper.  The 
consequences  are,  fre<pient  and  desperate  fights 
hetween  them  anl  the  "mountaineers,*  in  tho 
wild  defiles  and  fastnesses  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. 

The  band  in  nuestion  was,  at  this  time,  on  their 
way  hotnewa''d  from  one  of  their  customary  visits 
to  the  Arap.hoei  ;  and  in  the  ensuing  chapter, 
we  shall  tre;ir  ot  som<  bloody  encounters  between 
them  and  the  trapp^fu"^,  which  had  taken  uuice 
just  before  the  arrival  of  Captain  lk>ui«A^*»^^ 
umonir  the  mouiituius. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

fi'jMctte  an<l  his  band.  —  Robert  Campbell.  —  Mr.  Wveth  and 
a  band  of  "  Down-easters."  —  Yankee  Kntfrjtri/.e.  —  Kitz- 
pafriek  —  his  ailventure  w\{]\  the  Hlackfeet.  —  A  renrlez- 
vons  of  mountaineers.  —  The  bai:!e  of  IMerre's  Hole.  — Au 
Indian  ambuscade.  —  Sublette's  return. 


HAVING    C:i|)tain   Bonneville   and    liis 
band    ens(H)nsced    within   tlieir    fortilied 


ijj   c:im[)   in    the   Green    River  Valley,  wo 


hhail  .^tcj)  l):iok  and  aeitynipany  a  party  <>t*  the 
Roeky  ]M(jnntain  Fur  Company  in  its  pro«^res.s, 
with  .sni)plie.s  from  St.  Louis,  to  the  annual  ren- 
dezvous at  Pierre's  IIoli;.  'I'his  party  eonsisted 
of  sixty  men,  well  mounted,  and  eonduetin*^  a 
line  of  pack-horses.  Th('y  were  connnanded  hy 
Captain  William  Suhhitte,  a  partner  in  the  com- 
pany, and  one  of  the  UKJst  active,  intrepid,  and 
renownetl  leaders  in  this  half  militarv  kind  of 
service,  lie  was  a(*companied  hy  his  associate 
in  business,  and  tried  compainon  in  daui^er,  Mr. 
Robert  Campbell,  one  of  the  pioneers  of  the  trade 
ht'vond  the  moimtains,  who  had  (^ommai'ided  trap- 
V)in<^  parties  there  in  times  of  the  t^ri^ntest  jx  ril. 

As  the.^  worthy  compeers  were  on  their  I'oute 
10  the  frontier,  they  fell  in  with  another  expedi- 
tion, likewise  on  its  way  to  the  mountains.  This 
fas  a  party  of  regular  *'  Down-easters,"  that  is  to 


81 


BONUKVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


II: 


II 


8uy,  people  of  Now  Engliuid,  who,  witli  tlie  all- 
peiic'triitiiig  and  iiU-pcrviiding  si)ii'it  of  their  race, 
were  now  pushing  their  way  into  a  new  field  of 
enterprise,  with  which  they  were  totally  unac- 
fr'iainted.  The  party  had  been  fitted  out,  and 
was  niaintiiined  and  connnanded  by  Mr.  Nathan- 
iel J.  Wyeth,  of  Boston.^  This  gentleman  had 
conceived  an  idea,  that  a  profitable  fishery  for 
salmon  might  be  estal)lisl.»ed  on  the  Columbia 
River,  and  connected  with  the  fur  trade.  Ho 
had,  accordingly,  invested  cjii)ital  in  goods,  ctd- 
culated,  as  he  supposed,  for  the  Indian  trade,  and 
had  enlisted  a  number  of  Eastern  men  in  liis 
employ,  who  had  never  been  in  the  Far  West, 
nor  knew  anything  of  the  wilderness.  With 
these,  he  was  bravely  stt^ering  his  way  across  the 
continent,  undismayed  by  danger,  dilHculty,  or 
distance,  in  the  same  way  that  a  New  England 
coaster  and  his  neighbors  will  coolly  launch  forth 
on  a  voyage  to  the  JMack  Sea,  or  a  whaluig  cruise 
to  the  Pacific 

With  all  their  national  aptitude  at  expedient 
and  resoui'i-f),  Wyeth  and  his  men  felt  themselves 
completely  at  a  loss  when  they  reached  the  fi'on- 
tier,  and  found  that  the  wilderness  required  ex- 
perience and  habitudes  of  which  tlu^y  were  totally 
deficient.  Not  one  of  the  party,  excepting  the 
leader,  had  ever  seen  an  Indian  or  handled  a 
rifle ;  they  were  without  guide  or  interpreter,  and 
totally  unac(juainted  with  "  wood  craft,"  and  the 
Diodes  of  making  their  wa}^  among  savage  hordes, 

1  In  the  former  editions  of  this  work  we  have  erroneonslt 
giraa  this  eutcrprising  individual  the  title  of  captaiu. 


FITZPATRICK. 


m 


and   subsisting   tliemselves  during  long   niurchea 
over  wild  mountains  and  barron  ])lains. 

In  this  i)r(jdicanient,  Captain  Suhletto  found 
them,  in  a  manner  becalmed,  or  rather  run 
aground,  at  the  little  frontier  town  of  Independ- 
ence, in  Missouri,  and  kindly  took  them  in  tow. 
The  two  parties  travelled  amicably  together  ;  the 
frontier  men  of  Sublette's  party  gave  their  Yuu 
kee  comrades  some  lessons  in  hunting,  and  some 
insight  into  the  art  and  mystery  of  dealing  with 
the  Indians,  and  they  all  arrived  without  accident 
at  the  upper  branches  of  tlie  Nebraska  or  Platte 
River. 

In  the  course  of  their  march,  INIr.  Fitzpatrick, 
the  partner  of  the  company  who  was  resident  at 
that  time  beyond  the  momi tains,  came  down  from 
the  rendezvous  at  Pierre's  Hole  to  meet  them, 
and  hurry  Ihcm  forward.  lie  travelled  in  com- 
pany with  them  vuitil  they  reached  the  Sweet 
Water  ;  then  taking  a  couple  of  horses,  one  for 
the  saddle,  and  the  other  as  a  pack-horse,  he 
started  off  express  for  Pierre's  Hole,  to  make 
arranijements  against  their  arrival,  that  he  mi^jht 
commence  his  hunting  camj^aign  before  the  rival 
company. 

Fitzpatrick  was  a  hardy  and  experienced  moun- 
taineer, and  knew  all  the  passes^  and  deiiles.  As 
he  was  pursuing  his  lonely  course  up  the  Green 
River  Valley,  he  descried  several  horsemen  at  a 
Jistance,  and  cir.ne  to  a  halt  to  reconnoitre.  He 
supposed  them  to  be  some  detachment  from  the 
rendezvous,  or  a  party  of  friendly  Indians.  They 
perceived    him,  and  setting  up   the    war-whoop, 


\ 


lilt  I! 


!: 


I 


I 


H 


86 


D ONNK  VI LL ITS  AD  VENTURES. 


daslied  forward  at  full  speed :  lio  saw  at  once  hit 
mistake  and  his  peril  —  tliey  were  Hluckfeet. 
Spriii«ring  upon  ins  fU;ete.st  horse,  and  ahandon- 
in<^  the  other  to  the  enemy,  he  made  for  the 
mountains,  and  succeeded  in  esca])in«^  uj)  one  of 
the  most  (lan;:erous  defiles.  IIcM'e  he  concealed 
himself  until  he  thoui^ht  the  Indians  had  gone 
off,  when  he  returned  into  the  valley.  He  was 
again  pursued,  lost  his  remaining  horse,  and  oidy 
escaped  by  seranii)ling  up  among  the  cliffs.  For 
several  days  he  lemained  lurking  among  rock.s 
and  precipices,  and  almost  famished,  having  hut 
one  remaining  charge  in  his  rifle,  which  he  kept 
/or  self-defense. 

In  the  meantime,  Sublette  and  Camphell,  with 
their  fellow-traveller,  W3'eth,  had  })ursued  their 
march  unmolested,  and  arriviid  in  the  Greeu 
River  Valley,  totally  unconscious  that  there  was 
any  lurking  enemy  at  hand.  They  had  en- 
camped one  night  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream, 
which  came  down  from  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tiiins,  when  about  midnight,  a  band  of  Indians 
burst  upon  their  camp,  with  horrible  yells  and 
whoops,  and  a  discharge  of  guns  and  arrows. 
Happily  no  other  harm  was  done  tlum  wounding 
one  mule,  and  Ciiusing  several  horses  to  break 
loose  from  their  pickets.  The  Ciimp  was  in- 
etiintly  in  arms  ;  but  the  Indians  retreated  with 
yells  of  exultation,  carrying  off  several  of  the 
horses,  under  covert  of  the  night. 

This  was  somewhat  of  a  disagreeable  foretaste 
of  mountain  life  to  some  of  Wyeth's  band,  ac- 
customed ouly  to  tlie  regular  aud  peaceful  life  of 


PILHRirS  nOLE, 


87 


New  Kiifrlund  ;  nor  wms  it  ultogi^thcr  to  the  tasto 
of  ('Hptaiii  Sublette's  men,  who  were  cliieHy 
ci'Ltihis  uiul  towiisnuMi  fVuin  St.  Louis.  They 
lujntinued  their  march  the  next  morning,  keep- 
ing scouts  ahead  and  upon  their  flanks,  and  ar- 
lived  without  further  molestation  at  Pierre's 
11. le. 

The  first  incpiiry  of  CapUiin  SuMette,  on  reach- 
ing the  reiulezvous,  was  for  Fitzpatrick.  lie  had 
not  arrived,  nor  had  any  intelligence  been  received 
concernini'  him.  Great  uneasiness  was  now  enter- 
tainecl,  lest  he  should  have  fallen  into  the  hands 
of  the  lilaekfeet,  who  had  made  the  midnight  at- 
tack upon  tlie  camp.  It  was  a  matter  of  general 
joy,  therefore,  when  he  ma<l(;  his  a|)pearance,  eon- 
ducted  by  two  half-bree<l  Iroquois  hunters.  Ho 
had  lurked  for  several  davs  amom;  the  mountains, 
until  almost  starved ;  at  length  he  esca[)ed  the 
vigilance  of  his  enemies  in  the  night,  and  was  so 
fortunate  as  to  meet  the  two  Iroipiois  hunters, 
wlio,  being  on  horseback,  conveyed  him  without 
further  dilHeulty  to  the  rendezvous.  He  arrived 
there  so  emaciated  that  lie  could  scarcely  be  rec- 
O'niized. 

The  valley  called  Pierre's  Hole  is  about  thirty 
miles  in  len<;th  and  fifteen  in  width,  bounded  to 
the  west  and  south  by  low  and  broken  ridges, 
ind  overlooked  to  the  east  by  three  lofty  moun- 
tiins,  called  the  three;  Teton^,  which  domineer  iis 
landmarks  over  a  vast  extent  of  country. 

A  fine  stream,  fed  by  rivulets  and  mounUiin 
S})rings,  pours  through  the  valley  towards  the 
aorth,  diviiling  it  into  nearly  equal  parts.     The 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  t458C 

(716)  872-4503 


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B ONNF.VILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


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i'     il  i!'  ^ 


meadows  on  its  borders  are  broad  and  extensive, 
covered  with  willow  md  cotton- wood  trees,  so 
closely  interlocked  and  matted  together,  as  to  be 
nearly  impassable. 

In  this  valley  was  congregated  tlie  motley 
populace  connected  with  the  fur  trade.  Hero 
the  two  rival  companies  had  their  encampments, 
with  their  retainers  of  all  kinds  :  traders,  trappers, 
hunters,  and  half-breeds,  assembled  from  all  cpiar- 
ters,  awaiting  their  yearly  supplies,  and  their 
orders  to  start  off  in  new  directions.  Here,  also, 
the  savage  tribes  connected  with  the  trade,  the 
Nez  Perces  or  Chopunnish  Indians,  and  Flat- 
heads,  had  pitched  their  lodges  beside  the  streams, 
and  with  their  squaws  awaited  the  distribution 
of  goo<ls  and  finery.  There  was,  moreover,  a 
band  of  fifteen  free  trappers,  commanded  by  a 
gallant  leader  from  Arkansas,  named  Sinclair, 
who  held  their  encampment  a  little  apart  from 
the  rest.  Such  was  the  wild  and  heterogeneous 
assemblage,  amounting  to  several  hundred  men, 
civilized  and  savage,  distributed  in  tents  and 
lodges  in  the  several  camps. 

The  arrival  of  Captain  Sublette  with  supplies 
put  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  in  full 
activity.  The  wares  and  merchandise  were 
quickly  opened,  and  as  quickly  disposed  of  to 
trappers  and  Indians ;  the  usual  excitement  and 
revelry  took  place,  after  which,  all  hands  began  to 
disperse  to  their  several  destinations. 

On  the  17th  of  July,  a  small  brigade  of  four- 
teen trappers,  led  by  IMilton  Sublette,  brother  of 
the  <:aptain,  set  out  with  the  intention  of  proceed- 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  THE  BLACKFLET.     89 

in<T  to  the  southwest.  Tliey  .vere  accompanied 
by  Sinclair  and  his  fifteen  free  trappers  ;  Wyeth, 
also,  and  his  New  En<^land  band  of  beaver  hunt- 
ers and  salmon  fishers,  now  dwindled  down  to 
eleven,  took  this  opportunity  to  prosecute  their 
cruise  in  the  wilderness,  accompanied  with  such 
experienced  pilots.  On  the  first  day,  they  pro- 
ceeded about  eight  miles  to  the  southeast,  and 
encamped  for  the  night,  still  in  the  valley  of 
Pierre's  Hole.  On  the  following  morning,  jost 
as  they  were  raising  their  camp,  they  observed  \ 
long  line  of  people  pouring  down  a  defile  of  tlio 
mountains.  They  at  first  supposed  them  to  be 
Fontenelle  and  his  part}'',  whose  arrival  had  been 
daily  expected.  Wyeth,  however,  reconnoitered 
them  with  a  spy-glass,  and  soon  perceived  they 
were  Indians.  They  were  divided  iTito  two  par- 
ties, forming,  in  the  whole,  about  one  hundr^'"' 
and  fifty  persons,  men,  women,  and  children. 
Some  were  on  horseback,  fantastically  painted 
and  arrayed,  with  scarlet  blankets  fluttering  in 
the  wind.  The  greater  part,  however,  were  on 
foot.  They  had  perceived  the  trappers  before 
they  were  themselves  discovered,  and  came  down 
yelling  and  whooi)ing  into  the  plain.  On  nearer 
approach,  they  were  ascertained  to  be  Blackfeet. 

One  of  the  trappers  of  Sublette's  brigade,  a 
half-breed,  named  Antoine  Godin,  now  mounted 
his  horse,  and  rode  forth  as  if  to  hold  a  confer- 
ence. He  was  the  son  of  an  Irocjuois  hunter, 
who  had  been  cruelly  murdered  by  the  Blackfeet 
at  a  small  stream  below  the  mountains,  which 
^till  bears  his  name.     In  company  with  Antoine 


ihI  ! 


90 


B ONNE VILL E'S  AD  VEN T ORES. 


i 


pi^illi 


rode  forth  a  Flathead  Indian,  whose  once  power- 
ful tiibe  had  been  completely  broken  down  in 
their  wars  with  the  r>lackfeet.  Both  of  them, 
therefore,  cherished  the  most  venixeful  hostility 
against  these  marauders  of  the  mountains.  The 
Blackfeet  came  to  a  halt.  One  of  the  chiefs  ad- 
vanced singly  and  unarmed,  bearing  the  pipe  of 
peace.  This  overture  was  certainly  paciiic ;  but 
Antoine  and  the  Flathead  were  predisposed  to 
hostility,  and  pretended  to  consider  it  a  treacher- 
ous movement. 

"  Is  your  piece  charged  ?  "  said  Antoine,  to  his 
red  companion. 

"  It  is." 

"  Then  cock  it,  and  follow  me." 

They  met  the  Blackfoot  chief  half  way,  who 
extended  his  hand  in  friendship.  Antoine  grasped 
it. 

"  Fire  ! "  cried  he. 

The  Flathead  levelled  his  piece,  and  brought 
the  Blackfoot  to  the  ground.  Antoine  snatched 
off  his  scarlet  blanket,  which  was  richly  orna- 
mented, and  galloped  off  with  it  as  a  trophy  to 
the  cixmp,  the  bullets  of  the  enemy  whistling 
after  him.  The  Indians  innnediately  threw  them- 
selves into  the  edge  of  a  swamp,  among  willows 
and  cotton-wood  trees,  interwoven  with  vines. 
Here  they  began  to  fortify  themselves ;  the 
women  digging  a  trench,  and  throwing  up  a 
breastwork  of  logs  and  branches,  deep  hid  in  the 
bosom  of  the  wood,  while  the  warriors  skirmished 
at  the  edge  to  keep  the  trappers  at  bay. 

Tlie  latter  took   then-   station   in  a  ravine  iu 


AN  ALARM  —  A    TURN-OUT. 


n 


front,  whence  they  kept  np  a  scattering  fire.  As 
to  Wyeth,  and  liis  little  band  of  "  Down-easters," 
they  were  perfectly  astonnded  by  this  second 
specimen  of  life  in  the  wilderness  ;  the  men,  be- 
ing especially  unused  to  bush-fighting  and  the 
use  of  the  rifle,  were  at  a  loss  how  to  proceed. 
"Wyeth,  however,  acted  as  a  skillful  commander, 
lie  got  all  his  horses  into  camp  and  secured 
them  ;  then,  making  a  breastwork  of  his  packs  of 
goods,  he  charged  liis  men  to  remain  in  garrison, 
and  not  to  stir  out  of  their  fort.  For  himself, 
he  mingled  with  the  other  leaders,  determined  to 
tiike  his  share  in  the  conflict. 

In  tlie  meantime,  an  express  had  been  sent  off 
to  the  rendezvous  for  reinforcements.  Captain 
Sublette,  and  his  associate,  Campbell,  were  at 
their  camp  when  the  express  came  galloping 
across  the  plain,  waving  his  cap,  and  giving  the 
alarm ;  "  Blackfeet !  Blackfeet !  a  fight  in  the 
upper    part   of    the     valley  !  —  to    arms  !     to 


arms  i 

The  alarm  was  passed  from  camp  to  camp.  It 
was  a  common  cause.  Every  one  turned  out 
with  horse  and  rifle.  The  Nez  Perces  and  Flat- 
heads  joined.  As  fast  as  horsemen  could  arm 
and  mount  they  galloped  off;  the  valley  was  soon 
alive  with  white  jen  and  red  men  scouring  at 
full  speed. 

Sublette  ordered  his  men  to  keep  to  the  camp, 
being  recruits  from  St.  Louis,  and  unused  to  In- 
dian warfare.  He  and  his  friend  Campbell  pre- 
pared for  action.  Throwing  off  their  coats,  roll- 
ing up  their  sleeves,  and  arming  themselves  with 


'  ! 

•  --.'-i 

i 

1 

1 

i 


n 


ft 


'\\ 


i    s 


^1  : 


A 


I  " 


B ONNE  VJLLE'S  AD  VENTURES, 


pistols  and  rifles,  they  mounted  their  horses  and 
dashed  forward  among  the  iirst.  As  they  rode 
along,  they  made  their  wills  in  soldier-like  style  ; 
each  stating  how  his  effects  should  be  disposed  of 
hi  case  of  his  death,  and  appointing  the  other  his 
executor. 

The  Blackfeet  warriors  had  supposed  the  brig- 
ade of  Milton  Sublette  all  the  foe  they  had  to 
deal  with,  and  were  astonished  to  behold  tho 
whole  valley  suddenly  swarming  with  horsemen, 
galloping  to  the  Held  of  action.  They  withdrew 
into  their  fort,  which  was  completely  hid  from 
sight  in  the  dark  and  tangled  wood.  Mo3t  of 
their  women  and  children  had  retreated  to  the 
mountains.  The  trappers  now  sallied  forth  and 
approached  the  swamp,  firing  into  the  thickets  at 
random  ;  the  Blackfeet  had  a  better  sight  at  their 
adversaries,  who  were  in  the  open  Held,  and  a 
half-breed -was  wounded  in  the  shoulder. 

AVhen  Captain  Sublette  arrived,  he  urged  to 
penetrate  the  swamp  and  storm  the  fort,  but  all 
hung  back  in  awe  of  the  dismal  horrors  of 
the  place,  and  the  danger  of  attacking  such  des 
peradoes  in  their  savage  den.  The  very  Indian 
allies,  though  accustomed  to  bush-fighting,  re- 
garded it  as  almost  impenetrable,  and  full  of 
frightful  danger.  Sublette  was  not  to  be  turned 
from  his  purpose,  but  offered  to  lead  the  way  into 
the  swamp.  Cam})bell  stepj)ed  forward  to  accom- 
pany him.  Before  entering  the  perilous  wood, 
Sublette  took  his  brothers  aside,  and  told  them 
thtit  in  case  he  fell,  Campbell,  who  knew  his  will, 
was  to  be  his  executor.     This  done,  he  grasped 


li;     I 


ATTACK   ON   THE  INDIAN  FORT. 


93 


his  rifle  and  piislied  into  the  thickets,  followed  by 
Campbell.  Sinclair,  the  partisan  from  Arkansas, 
was  at  the  edge  of  the  v/ood  with  his  brother  and 
a  few  of  his  men.  Ex  3ited  by  the  gallant  exam- 
ple of  the  two  friends,  he  pressed  forward  to 
share  their  dangers. 

The  swamp  was  produced  by  the  labors  of  the 
beaver,  which,  by  damming  u})  a  stream,  had  in- 
undated  a  portion  of  the  valley.  The  place  was 
all  overgrown  with  woods  and  thickets,  so  closely 
matted  and  entangled,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
see  ten  paces  ahead,  and  the  three  associates  in 
peril  had  to  crawl  along,  one  after  another,  mak- 
ing their  way  by  putting  the  branches  and  vines 
aside ;  but  doing  it  >vith  caution,  lest  they  should 
attract  the  eye  of  soixie  lurking  marksman.  They 
took  the  lead  by  turns,  each  advancing  about 
twenty  yards  at  a  time,  and  now  and  then  hal- 
looing to  their  men  to  follow.  Some  of  the  latter 
gradually  entered  the  swamp,  and  followed  a  little 
distance  in  their  rear. 

They  had  now  reached  a  more  open  part  of 
the  wood,  and  had  glimpses  of  the  rude  fortress 
from  between  the  trees.  It  was  a  mere  breast- 
work, as  we  have  said,  of  logs  and  branches,  with 
blankets,  buffalo  robes,  and  the  leathern  covers  of 
lodges,  extended  round  the  top  as  a  screen.  The 
movements  of  the  leaders,  as  they  groped  their 
way,  had  been  descried  by  the  sharp-sighted 
enemy.  As  Sinclair,  who  was  in  the  advance, 
was  putting  some  branches  aside,  he  was  shot 
through  the  body.  He  fell  on  the  spot.  "  Take 
aie  to  my  brother,"  said  he  to  Campbell.     The 


I ' 


1  1 


Il''l 


94 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


latter  gave  him  in  charge  to  some  of  the  men. 
who  conveyed  him  out  of  the  swamp. 

Sublette  now  took  tlie  advance.  As  he  was 
reconnoitering  the  fort,  he  perceived  an  Indian 
peeping  through  an  aperture.  In  an  instant  his 
rifle  was  levelled  and  discharged,  and  the  ball 
struck  the  savage  in  the  eye.  While  he  was  re- 
loading, he  called  to  Campbell,  and  pointed  out  to 
him  tlie  hole  ;  "  AVatch  that  place,"  said  he,  "  and 
you  will  soon  have  a  fair  chance  for  a  shot." 
Sciirce  had  he  uttered  the  words,  when  a  ball 
struck  him  in  the  shoulder,  and  almost  wheeled 
him  round.  His  first  thought  was  to  take  hold 
of  his  arm  with  his  other  hand,  and  move  it  up 
and  down.  He  ascertained,  to  his  satisfaction, 
that  the  bone  was  not  broken.  The  next  moment 
he  was  so  fiint  that  he  could  not  stand.  Campbell 
took  him  in  his  arms  and  carried  him  out  of  the 
thic'iet.  The  same  shot  that  struck  Sublette, 
wounded  another  man  in  the  head. 

A  brisk  fire  was  now  opened  by  the  raoun- 
tahieers  from  the  wood,  answered  occasionally 
from  the  fort.  Unluckily,  the  trappers  and  their 
allies,  in  searching  for  the  fort,  had  got  scattered, 
60  that  Wyeth,  and  a  number  of  Nez  Pei'^es, 
approached  the  fort  on  the  northwest  side,  while 
others  did  the  same  on  the  opposite  quarter.  A 
cross-fire  thus  took  place,  which  occasionally  did 
mischief  to  friends  as  well  as  foes.  An  Indian 
was  shot  down,  close  to  Wyeth,  by  a  ball  which, 
he  was  convinced,  had  been  sped  from  the  rifle  ot 
a  trapper  on  the  other  side  of  the  fort. 

The  number  of  wliites  and  their  Iiidian  allies, 


SPEECH   OB    BLACKFEET   CHIEF. 


95 


'f 


had  by  tliis  time  so  much  increased  by  arrivals 
fi'oin  the  rendezvous,  that  the  Blackl'eet  were 
coin])letely  overmatclicd.  They  kept  do<i;ge(lIy 
ill  their  fort,  liu  'ever,  making  no  offer  of  sur- 
n  nder.  An  occasional  firing  into  the  breastwork 
was  kept  up  during  the  day.  Now  and  then 
one  of  the  Indian  allies,  in  bravado,  would  rush 
up  to  the  fort,  fire  o^/er  the  ramparts,  tear  off  a 
buffalo  robe  or  a  scarlet  blanket,  and  return  with 
it  in  triumph  to  his  comrades.  Most  of  the  savage 
garrison  that  fell,  however,  were  killed  in  the  first 
part  of  the  attack. 

At  one  time  it  was  resolved  to  set  fire  to  the 
fort ;  and  the  scjuaws  belonging  to  the  allies  were 
employed  to  collect  combustibles.  This,  however, 
was  abandoned  ;  the  Nez  Perces  being  unwilling 
to  destroy  the  robes  and  blankets,  and  other  spoils 
of  the  enemy,  wliich  they  felt  sure  would  fall  into 
their  hands. 

The  Indians,  when  fighting,  are  prone  to  taunt 
and  re^'ile  each  other.  During  one  of  the  pauses 
of  the  battle,  the  voice  of  the  Blackfeet  chief  waa 
heard. 

"  So  long,"  said  he,  "  as  we  had  powder  and 
bail,  we  fought  you  in  the  open  field :  when  those 
w  ire  spent,  we  retreated  here  to  die  with  our 
women  and  children.  You  may  burn  us  in  oui 
fort ;  but,  stay  by  our  ashes,  and  you  who  are  so 
liungry  for  fighting,  will  soon  have  enough. 
There  are  four  hundred  lodges  of  our  brethren 
at  band.  They  will  soon  be  here  —  their  arms 
^re  strong  —  their  bearts  are  big  —  they  will 
avengo  us!" 


i! 


96 


D ONNEViLLE'S  A D VKN TURES. 


Tliis  spcecli  was  tninslaUMl  two  or  three  times 
by  Nez  Perce  and  ereole  interpreters.  By  tlie 
time  it  was  rendt^riMl  into  Kii<»lisli,  tlie  chief  was 
made  to  say,  that  four  hundred  h)dires  of  liis  ti'ibc 
were  attacking  the  encanipnient  at  the  otlier  end 
of  the  vaHey.  Every  one  now  was  for  hurryin« 
to  the  defense  of  the  rendezvous.  A  party  waa 
left  to  keep  watch  upon  the  fort ;  the  rest  gallope(/ 
off  to  the  (!ainp.  As  niglit  came  on,  tlie  trapi)era 
drew  out  of  tlie  swamp,  and  remained  about  the 
skirts  of  the  wood.  By  morning,  their  com 
panions  returned  from  the  rendezvous,  with  the 
report  that  all  was  safe.  As  the  day  opened,  they 
ventured  within  the  swamp  and  approached  the 
fort.  All  \vas  silent.  They  advanced  up  to  it 
without  opposition.  They  entered :  it  had  been 
abandoned  iu  the  night,  and  the  Blackfeet  liad 
effected  their  retreat,  carrying  off  their  wounded 
on  litters  made  of  branches,  leaving  bloody  traces 
on  the  herbage.  The  bodies  of  ten  Indiana  were 
found  within  the  fort ;  among  them  the  one  shot  in 
the  eye  by  Sublette.  The  Blackfeet  afterwards 
rei)orted  that  they  had  lost  twenty-six  warriors  in 
this  battle.  Thirty-two  horses  were  likewise 
found  killed  ;  among  them  were  some  of  those 
recently  carried  off  from  Sublette's  party,  iu  the 
night ;  which  showed  that  these  were  the  very 
savages  that  had  attacked  him.  They  proved  to 
be  an  advance  party  of  the  main  body  of  Black- 
feet, which  had  been  upon  the  trail  of  Sublette's 
party.  Five  white  men  and  one  half-breed  were 
killed,  and  several  wounded.  Seven  of  the  Nez 
Perces  were  also  killed,  and  six  wounded.     They 


DEVOTION   OF  A   SQUAW. 


97 


had  an  old  chief,  who  was  reputed  as  iiividnerable. 
Ill  the  course  of  the  action  lie  was  hit  by  a  spent 
hall,  and  threw  up  blood  ;  but  his  skin  was  un- 
broken. His  people  were  now  fully  convinctMl 
that  he  was  proof  against  powder  and  ball. 

A  striking  circumstance  is  related  as  having 
occurred  the  morning  after  the  battle.  As  some 
of  the  trappers  and  their  Indian  allies  were  ap- 
proaching the  fort,  through  the  woods,  they  be- 
held an  Indian  woman,  of  noble  form  and  features, 
leaning  against  a  tree.  Their  surprise  at  her 
lingering  here  alone,  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  her 
enemies,  was  dispelled,  when  they  saw  the  corpse 
of  a  warrior  at  her  feet.  Either  she  was  so  lost 
in  grief  as  not  to  perc  ive  their  ap})roach ,  or  a 
proud  spirit  kept  her  silent  and  motioidess.  The 
Indians  set  up  a  yell,  on  discov^ering  her,  and 
before  the  trappers  could  interfere,  her  mangled 
body  fe!'  upon  the  corpse  which  she  had  refused 
to  abandon.  We  have  heard  this  anecdote 
discredited  by  one  of  the  leaders  who  had 
been  hi  the  bal!'e  but  the  fact  may  have  taken 
place  without  his  seeing  it,  and  been  concealed 
from  him.  It  is  an  instance  of  female  devotion, 
even  to  the  death,  which  we  are  well  disposed  to 
believe  and  to  record. 

After  the  battle,  the  brigade  of  Milton  Sublette, 
together  with  the  free  trappers,  and  Wyeth's  New 
England  band,  remained  some  days  at  the  rendez 
vous,  to  see  if  the  main  body  of  Blackfeet  intende*. 
to  make  an  attack ;  nothing  of  the  kind  occurring 
they  once  more  put  themselves  in  motion,  and 
proceeded  on  their  route  towards  the  southwest. 


I       I 


•■»■ 


ikr 


98 


B ONNE  VILLFTS  A D  VENTURES. 


I  m 


i'i'i:' 


Mr 


II  r 


Captain  Siiljlctfo  l»aviiii,Mlisti'il)iiU!il  his  supplies, 
had  intended  to  set  off  on  his  retinMi  to  St.  Ijt)ui.s, 
talcing  with  him  the  peltries  collected  from  tho 
trappers  and  Indians.  His  wound,  however, 
ohlii^ed  him  to  postpone  his  departure.  Several 
who  were  to  hav(5  accompanied  him,  became  im- 
patient of  this  delay.  Among  these  was  a  young 
Hostonian,  Mr.  Jose[)h  INIore,  one  of  the  followers 
»)f  INIr.  Wyeth,  who  had  seen  enough  of  mountain 
life  and  savage  warfare,  and  was  eai'er  to  return 
to  the  abodes  of  civilization.  He  and  six  others, 
among  whom  weie  a  Mr.  Foy,  of  Mississippi, 
INIr.  Alfred  K.  Stephens,  of  St.  Louis,  and  two 
grandsons  of  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boon,  set  out 
together,  in  advance  of  Sublette's  party,  thinking 
they  would  make  their  own  way  through  the 
mountains. 

It  was  just  five  days  after  the  battle  of  the 
swauip,  that  these  seven  companions  were  making 
their  way  through  Jackson's  Hole,  a  valley  not 
far  from  the  three  Tetons,  when,  as  they  were  de- 
scending a  hill,  a  party  of  Blackfeet  that  lay  in 
ambush  started  up  with  terrific  yells.  The  horse 
of  the  young  Bostonian,  who  was  hi  fi'ont,  wheeled 
round  with  affright,  and  threw  his  imskillful  rider. 
The  young  man  scrambled  up  the  side  of  the  hill, 
but,  unaccustomed  to  such  wild  scenes,  lost  hia 
presence  of  mind,  and  stood,  as  if  paralyzed,  on 
the  edge  of  a  bank,  until  the  Blackfeet  came  up 
and  slew  him  on  the  spot.  His  comrades  had  fied 
on  the  first  alarm;  but  two  of  them,  Foy  and 
Stephens,  seeing  his  danger,  paused  when  thej 
had  got  half  way  up  the  liill,  turned  buck,  dis 


SUIiL  IITTE'S    CAR  A  VA  N, 


90 


rnouiitiMl,  and  liastoned  to  liis  assistiinco.  Foy 
was  instantly  killed.  Stt^pluMis  was  stJvtUHtl^ 
wouiidod,  l)nt  escaped,  to  die  live  days  afterwards. 
Tlio  survivors  nsturned  to  the  (^ainp  of  Captain 
Sni>lette,  hi'inijfiin^  tidini^s  of  this  new  disaster. 
Tiiat  hardy  leader,  as  soon  as  he  could  bear  tlui 
journey,  set  out  on  his  return  to  8t.  Louis,  ae- 
companiiMl  by  Ca!nj)bell.  As  they  had  a  nunil)er 
of  pa(;U-horses  ri(;hly  laden  with  peltries  to  conv(jy, 
tliey  chose  a  dilferent  route  through  the  moun- 
tains, out  of  the  way,  as  tliey  hoped,  of  the  lurk- 
ing bands  of  Hlackfeet.  They  succeeded  in  mak- 
ing the  frontier  in  safety.  We  remember  to  have 
seen  them  with  their  band,  about  two  or  three 
months  afterwards,  i)assinix  through  a  skirt  of 
woodland  in  the  upper  part  of  Missouri.  Their 
long  cavalcade  stretched  in  single  file  for  nearly 
half  a  mile.  Sublette  still  wore  his  arm  in  a  sling- 
The  mountaineers  in  their  rude  huntiuix  dresses, 
armed  with  rifles,  and  I'oughly  mounted,  and  lead- 
ing their  })ack-h()rses  down  a  hill  of  the  forest, 
looked  like  banditti  returning  with  j)lunder.  On 
the  top  of  some  of  the  packs  were  perched  several 
half-breed  chihh'en,  perfect  little  imps,  with  wild 
black  eyes  glaring  from  among  elf  locks.  These, 
I  was  told,  were  children  of  the  trap[)ers :  pledgee 
of  love  fi'om  their  squaw  spouses  in  the  wildor- 

DO»S. 


ii|i!  11 


.1' 


'     ! 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Retreat  of  the  Blackfeet.  —  Fontenelle's  camp  in  danger.  — 
Captain  Bonneville  and  the  Blackfeet. —  Free  trappers  — 
their  character,  habits,  dress,  equipments,  horses. —  (}ame 
fellows  of  the  mountains  —  their  visit  to  the  camp.  —  Good 
fellowship  and  good  cheer.  —  A  carouse.  —  A  swagger, 
a  brawl,  and  a  reconciliation. 


I  liii! 


I 


HE  Blackfeet  warriors,  when  they  ef- 
fected their  midnight  retreat  from  their 
wild  fastness  in  Pierre's  Hole,  fell  back 
into  the  valley  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green 
River,  where  they  joined  the  main  body  o;^  their 
band.  The  whole  force  amounted  to  several  hun- 
dred fighting  men,  gloomy  and  exasperated  by 
their  late  disaster.  They  hud  with  them  tlieir 
wives  and  children,  which  incapacitated  them  for 
any  bold  and  extensive  enterprise  of  a  warlike  na- 
ture ;  but  when,  in  the  course  of  their  wander- 
ings, they  came  in  sight  of  the  encampment  of 
•  Fontenelle,  who  had  moved  some  dist-  uce  up 
Green  River  Valley  in  search  of  the  free  trappers, 
they  put  up  tremendous  war-cries,  and  advanced 
fiercely  as  if  to  attack  it.  Second  thoughts 
caused  thein  to  moderate  their  fury.  They  rec 
ollectcd  the  severe  lesson  just  received,  and 
could  not  but  remark  the  strength  of  Eor.tonelle's 
position;  which  had  been  chosen  with  great  judg- 
ment. 


\ 


lit 


BLACKFEET   VISIT  BONNEVILLE. 


101 


A  formal  talk  ensutvL  Tlie  Blackfeet  said 
nothing  of  tlie  late  battle,  of  vvhicii  Foiitenello 
had  as  yet  received  no  accounts ;  the  latter,  how- 
ever, knew  the  hostile  a  i  perfidious  nature  of 
these  savages,  and  took  care  to  inform  Miem  of 
the  encampment  of  Captain  Bonneville,  that  they 
might  know  thore  were  more  white  men  in  the 
neighborhood. 

The  conference  ended,  Fontenelle  sent  a  Dela- 
ware Indian  of  his  party  to  conduct  fifteen  of  tlie 
Blackfeet  to  the  camp  of  Captain  Bonneville. 
There  were  at  that  time  two  Crow  Indians  in  the 
captain's  camp,  who  had  recently  arrived  there. 
They  looked  with  dismay  at  this  deputation  from 
their  implacable  enemies,  and  gave  the  Captain  a 
terrible  character  of  them,  assuring  him  that  the 
best  thing  he  could  possibly  do,  was  to  put  those 
Blackfeet  deputies  to  death  on  the  spot.  The 
captain,  however,  who  had  heard  nothing  of  the 
conflict  at  Pierre's  Hole,  declined  all  compliance 
with  this  sage  counsel.  He  treated  the  grim 
warriors  with  his  usual  urbanity.  They  passed 
some  little  time  at  the  camp  ;  saw,  no  doubt,  that 
everything  was  conducted  with  military  skill  and 
vigilance ;  and  that  such  an  enemy  was  not  to  bo 
easily  surprised,  nor  to  be  molested  with  impu- 
nity, and  then  departed,  to  report  all  that  they 
had  seen  to  their  comrades. 

The  two  scouts  which  Captain  Bonneville  had 
sent  out  to  seek  for  the  band  of  free  trappers,  ex- 
Dected  by  Fontenelle,  and  to  invite  them  to  hia 
camp,  had  been  successful  in  their  search,  and  on 
the  12th  of  August  those  worthies  made  their  up- 


li^ili 


,- 


!    ! 


I 


iiii 


i 


i'lliil;!! 


102 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


pearance.  To  explain  the  meaning  of  the  appel- 
lation, free  trapper,  it  is  necessary  to  state  the 
terms  on  which  the  men  enlist  in  the  service  of 
the  fur  companies.  Some  have  regular  wages, 
and  are  furnished  with  weapons,  horses,  traps, 
and  other  requisites.  These  are  under  command, 
and  bound  to  do  every  duty  required  of  them 
connected  with  the  service ;  such  as  hunting,  trap- 
ping, loading  and  unloading  the  horses,  mounting 
guard ;  and,  in  short,  all  the  drudgery  of  the 
camp.     These  are  the  hired  trappers. 

The  free  trappers  are  a  more  independent 
class  ;  and  in  describing  them,  we  shall  do  little 
more  than  transcribe  the  graphic  description  of 
them  by  Captain  Bonneville.  "  They  come  and 
go,"  says  he,  '*  when  and  where  they  please ; 
provide  their  own  horses,  arms,  and  other  equip- 
ments ;  trap  and  trade  on  their  own  account,  and 
dispose  of  their  skins  and  peltries  to  the  highest 
bidder.  Sometimes,  in  a  dangerous  hunting 
ground,  they  attach  themselves  to  the  camp  of 
some  trader  for  protection.  Here  they  come  un- 
der some  re.:trictions  ;  they  have  to  conform  to 
the  ordinary  rufes  for  trapping,  and  to  submit  to 
such  restraints,  and  to  take  part  in  such  general 
duties,  as  are  established  for  the  good  order  and 
safety  of  the  camp.  In  return  for  this  protec- 
tion, and  for  their  camp  keeping,  they  are  bound 
to  dispose  of  all  the  beaver  they  take,  to  the  tra- 
der who  commands  the  camp,  at  a  certain  rate 
per  skin  ;  or,  should  they  pi'efer  seeking  a  mar- 
ket elsewhere,  they  are  to  make  him  an  allow- 
ance, of  from  thirty  to  forty  dollars  for  the  whole 
bunt. 


tl' 


— 14 


FREE   TRAPPERS, 


103 


Tliere  is  an  inferior  order,  who,  either  from 
prudence  or  poverty,  cotne  to  these  dangerous 
hunting  grounds  without  hoi'ses  or  accoutrements, 
and  are  furnished  by  tlie  traders.  Tiiese,  Hke  the 
hired  trappers,  are  bound  to  exert  themselves  to 
tlie  utmost  in  taking  beaver,  which,  without  skin- 
ning, they  render  in  at  the  trader's  lodge,  where  a 
Btipuhited  price  for  each  is  phiced  to  their  credit. 
These,  though  generally  included  in  the  generic 
name  of  free  trappers,  have  the  more  specific  title 
of  skin  trappers. 

The  wandering  whites  who  mingle  for  any 
length  of  time  with  the  savages,  have  invariably  a 
proneness  to  adopt  savage  habitudes  ;  but  none 
more  so  than  the  fi-ee  trappers.  It  is  a  matter  of 
vanity  and  ambition  witii  tliem  to  discard  every- 
tliing  that  may  bcjir  the  stamp  of  civilized  life, 
and  to  adopt  the  manners,  habits,  dress,  gesture, 
and  even  walk  of  the  Indian.  You  cannot  pay 
a  free  trapper  a  gi'eater  compliment,  than  to  per- 
suade him  you  have  mistaken  him  for  an  Indian 
brave  ;  and,  in  truth,  the  counterfeit  is  complete. 
His  hair,  suffered  to  attain  to  a  great  length,  is 
(Carefully  combed  out,  and  either  left  to  fall  care- 
lessly over  his  shoulders,  or  plaited  neatly  and 
tied  up  in  otter  skins,  or  parti-colored  ribbons. 
A  hunting-shirt  of  ruffled  calico  of  bright  dyes, 
or  of  ornamented  leather,  falls  to  his  knee  ;  be- 
low which,  curiously  fashioned  leggins,  orna- 
mented with  strings,  fringes,  and  a  profusion  of 
hawks'  bells,  reach  to  a  costly  pair  of  moccasins 
of  the  finest  Indian  fabric,  richly  embroidered 
with  beads.     A  blanket  of  scarlet,  or  some   other 


m 


I' ' 


104 


BONNEVlLLira   ADVENTURES. 


■  ■  I 


lii'i'^ 


km 


i 


K 


mm 

I  Mi 


*■  ■  •>,  t 


I    u 


bright  color,  hangs  from  his  shoulders,  and  is 
girt  round  his  waist  with  a  red  sash,  in  which 
lie  bestows  his  pistols,  knife,  and  the  stem  of  iiis 
Indian  pipe  ;  preparations  either  for  peace  or 
war.  His  gun  is  lavishly  decorated  with  brass 
tacks  and  vermilion,  and  provided  with  a  fringed 
cover,  occtisionally  of  buckskin,  ornamented  hero 
and  there  with  a  feather.  His  horse,  the  noble 
minister  to  the  pride,  pleasure,  and  profit  of  the 
mountaineer,  is  selected  for  his  speed  and  spirit, 
and  prancing  gait,  and  holds  a  place  in  his  esti- 
mation second  only  to  himself.  He  shares 
largely  of  his  bounty,  and  of  his  pride  and  pomp 
of  trapping.  He  is  caparisoned  in  the  most  dash- 
ing and  fantastic  style  ;  the  bridles  and  crupper 
are  weightily  embossed  with  beads  and  cockades  ; 
and  head,  mane,  and  tail  are  interwoven  with 
abundance  of  eagles*  plumes,  which  flutter  in  the 
wind.  To  complete  this  grotesque  equipment, 
the  proud  animal  is  bestreaked  and  bespotted 
with  vermilion,  or  with  white  clay,  whichever 
presents  the  most  glaring  contrast  to  his  real 
color. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonne- 
ville of  these  rangers  of  the  wilderness,  and  their 
appearance  at  the  camp  was  strikingly  character- 
istic. They  came  dashing  forward  at  full  speed, 
firing  their  fusees,  and  yelling  in  Indian  style. 
Their  dark  sunburnt  faces,  and  long  flowing  hair, 
their  leggings,  flaps,  moccasins,  and  richly-dyed 
blankets,  and  their  painted  horses  gaudily  capari- 
soned, gave  them  so  much  the  air  and  appearance 
of  Indians,  that   it  was  difficult  to  persuade  one's 


VISIT   OF   THE  FREE   TRAPPERS.        105 

Be.f  that  they  were  white  men,  and  had  been 
brought  up  in  civilize'l  life. 

Captain  Bonneville,  who  was  delighted  with 
the  game  look  of  these  cavaliers  of  the  mountains, 
welcomed  them  heartily  to  his  camp,  and  ordered 
a  free  allowance  of  grog  to  regaie  inem,  which 
soon  put  them  in  the  most  braggart  spirits. 
They  pronounced  the  captain  the  finest  fellow  in 
the  world,  and  his  men  all  bons  gargons,  jovial 
lads,  and  swore  they  would  pass  the  day  with 
them.  They  did  so  ;  and  a  day  it  was,  of  boast, 
swagger,  and  rodomontade.  The  prime  bullies 
and  braves  among  the  free  trappers  had  each  his 
circle  of  novices,  from  among  the  captain's  band ; 
mere  greenhorns,  men  unused  to  Indian  life ; 
mangeurs  de  lard,  or  pork  eaters ;  as  such  new- 
comers are  superciliously  called  by  the  veterans 
of  the  wilderness.  These  he  would  astonish  and 
delight  by  the  hour,  with  prodigious  tales  of  his 
doin";s  amontj  the  Indians  ;  and  of  the  wonders 
he  had  seen,  and  the  wonders  he  had  performed, 
in  his  adventurous  peregrinations  among  the 
mountains. 

In  the  evening,  the  free  trappers  drew  off,  and 
returned  to  the  camp  of  Fontenelle,  highly  de- 
lighted with  their  visit  and  with  their  new  acquain- 
tances, and  promising  to  return  the  following  day. 
They  kept  their  word :  day  after  day  their  visits 
were  repeated  ;  they  became  "  hail  fellow  well 
met  "  with  Captain  Bonneville's  men ;  treat  after 
treat  succeeded,  until  both  parties  got  most  po- 
tently convinced,  or  rather  confounded,  by  liquor. 
Now  came   on  confusion  and  uproar.     The  free 


It 


■■:\\ 


I  I 


1  ( 

I  ' 


106 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


m 


liM!!! 


f.'i:V\ 


E::,  'III 


iii 


mm 


trappers  were  no  longer  snflTered  to  have  all  the 
Bvvagger  to  themselves  The  camp  bullies  and 
prime  trappers  of  the  party  began  to  ruffle  up, 
and  to  brag,  in  turn,  of  their  peril?  and  achieve- 
ments. Each  now  tried  to  out-boast  and  out- 
talk  the  other;  a  quarrel  ensued  as  a  matter  of 
course,  and  a  general  fight,  according  to  frontier 
usage.  The  two  factions  drew  out  their  forces 
for  a  pitched  battle.  They  fell  to  work  and  be- 
labored each  other  with  might  and  main  ;  kicks 
and  cuffs  and  Q.'y  blows  were  as  well  bestowed  as 
they  were  well  merited,  until,  having  fought  to 
their  hearts'  content,  and  been  drubbed  into  a  fa- 
miliar acquaintance  with  each  other's  prowess  and 
good  qualities,  they  ended  the  fight  by  becoming 
firmer  friends  than  they  could  have  been  rendered 
by  a  year's  peaceable  companloni^iiip. 

While  Captain  Bomieville  nmused  himself  by 
observi':g  the  habits  and  characteristics  of  this 
singular  class  of  men,  and  indulged  them,  for  the 
time,  in  all  their  vagaries,  he  profited  by  tlie  op- 
r>ortunity  to  collect  from  them  information  con- 
cerning tiie  difl^erent  parts  of  the  country  about 
which  they  had  been  accustomed  to  range  ;  the 
characters  of  the  triber>,  and,  in  short,  every  thing 
important  to  his  enterprise.  He  also  succeeded 
in  securing  the  services  of  several  to  guide  and 
aid  him  in  his  peregrinations  among  the  moun- 
tains, and  to  trap  for  him  during  the  ensuing  sea- 
Bon.  Having  strengthened  his  party  with  such 
valuable  recruits,  he  felt  in  some  measure  con- 
Boled  for  the  loss  of  the  Delaware  Indians,  de* 
coyed  from  him  by  Mr.  Fontenelle. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


!     I   \ 


Plans  for  the  winter.  —  Salmon  River. —  Abundan-vS  of  sal- 
mon west  of  the  mountains.  —  New  arrangements. — 
Caches.  —  Cerr^'s  detachment.  —  Movements  in  Fonte- 
nelle's  camp. —  Deiiarture  of  the  Hiackfeet  —  tlieir  for- 
tunes.—  Wind  Mountain  streams. — Buckeye,  the  Dela- 
ware hunter,  and  the  j^rizzly  bear.  —  Hones  of  murdered 
travellers.  —  Visit  to  Pierre's  Hole.  —  Traces  of  the  battle. 
—  Nez  Pared  Indians.  —  Arrival  at  Salmon  River. 

HE  information  derived  from  the  free 
tappers  determined  Captain  Bonneville 
as  to  his  further  movements.  He  learnt 
that  in  the  Green  River  Valley  the  winters  were 
severe,  the  snow  frequently  i'alling  to  the  depth 
of  several  feet ;  and  that  there  was  no  jrood  win- 
tering ground  in  the  neighborhood.  The  upper 
pait  of  Salmon  River  was  represented  as  far 
more  eligible,  besides  being  in  an  excellent  bea- 
ver cou!itry ;  and  thither  the  captain  resolved  to 
bend  his  course. 

The  Salmon  River  is  one  of  the  upper  branches 
of  the  Oregon  or  Columbia ;  and  takes  its  rise 
from  various  sources,  among  a  group  of  moun- 
tains to  the  northwost  of  the  Wind  River  chain. 
It  owes  its  name  to  the  immense  shoals  of  salmon 
which  ascend  it  in  the  months  of  September  and 
October.     The  salmon  on  the  west  side  of  the 


I  I 


li      ^^1  IW>' 


jm 


II  m 


108 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


Rocky  IMoun tains  c^re,  like  the  buffak)  on  tlie 
easiern  plains,  vast  niigratory  supplies  for  the 
wants  of  man,  that  come  and  go  with  the  seasons. 
As  the  butfalo  in  countless  throngs  find  their  cer- 
tain way  in  the  transient  pasturage  on  the  prairies, 
ak)ng  the  fresh  banks  of  ilie  rivers,  and  up  every 
vaUey  and  green  defile  of  llie  mountains,  so  tho 
siilmon,  at  their  allotted  seasons,  regulated  by  a 
KUL'ime  and  all-seeing  Providence,  swarm  in 
myriads  up  the  great  rivers,  and  find  their  way 
up  their  main  branches,  and  into  the  minutest 
tributary  streams ;  so  as  to  pervade  the  great 
arid  plains,  and  to  penetrate  even  among  barren 
mountains.  Thus  wandering  tribes  are  fed  in 
the  desert  places  of  the  wilderness,  where  there  is 
no  herbage  for  the  animals  of  the  chase,  and 
where,  but  for  these  periodical  supplies,  it  would 
be   impossible  for  man  to  subsist. 

The  rapid  currents  of  the  rivers  which  run 
into  the  Pacific  render  the  ascent  of  them  very 
exhausting  to  the  salmon.  When  the  fish  first 
run  up  the  rivers,  they  are  fat  and  in  fine  order. 
The  struggle  against  impetuous  streams  and  fre- 
quent rapids  gradually  renders  them  thin  and 
weak,  and  great  numbers  are  seen  fioating  down 
the  rivers  on  their  backs.  As  the  seasoii  ad- 
vances and  the  water  becomes  chilled,  they  are 
Hung  in  myriads  on  the  shores,  where  the  wolves 
and  bears  assemble  to  banquet  on  them.  Often 
they  rot  in  such  quantities  along  the  river  banks, 
us  to  taint  the  atmosphere.  They  are  commonly 
f~om  two  to  three  feet  long. 

Capttiiii    Bonneville    now    made  his   arrange* 


ARRANGEMENTS  FOR    WINTER. 


109 


mciits  for  the  autumn  and  tf>e  winter.  The  na- 
ture of  the  country  throuj;li  which  he  was  uhout 
to  trav^^l  rendered  it  impossible  to  proceed  with 
waj^ons.  He  liad  more  goods  and  supplies  of 
various  kinds,  also,  tijan  were  required  lor  pres- 
ent purposes,  or  than  could  be  conveniently  trans- 
ported on  horseback ;  aided,  therefore,  by  a  few 
contidential  men,  he  made  caches^  or  secret  pits, 
during  the  night,  when  all  the  rest  of  the  camp 
were  asleep,  and  in  these  deposited  the  superflu- 
ous effects,  together  with  the  wagons.  All  traces 
of  the  caches  were  then  carefully  obliterated. 
This  is  a  common  expedient  with  the  traders  and 
trappers  of  the  mountains.  Having  no  estab- 
lished posts  and  magazines,  they  make  these 
caches  or  deposits  at  certain  points,  whither  they 
repair  occasionally,  for  supplies.  It  is  an  expe- 
dient derived  from  the  wandering  tribes  of  In- 
dians. 

Many  of  the  horses  were  still  so  weak  and 
lame  as  to  be  unfit  for  a  long  scramble  through 
the  mountains.  These  were  collected  into  one 
cavalcade,  and  given  in  charge  to  an  experienced 
trapper,  of  the  name  of  Matthieu.  He  was  to 
proceed  westward,  with  a  brigade  of  trappers,  to 
Bear  River ;  a  stream  to  the  west  of  the  Green 
liiver  or  Colorado,  where  there  was  good  pas- 
turage for  the  horses.  In  this  neighborhood  it 
was  expected  he  would  meet  the  Shoshonie  vil- 
lages or  bands,^  on  their  yearly  migrations,  with 

1  A  village  of  Indians,  in  trappers'  language,  does  not  always 
Impl}^  a  fixed  comnuinity;  but  often  a  wandering  horde  or 
uacd.    The  Shoshonies,  like  most  of  the  mountain   tribes, 


I* 


I-  W 


'» 


'i 


11^.11 


ii^ 


110 


r. ONNE VILLI': a  AD VEN T URES, 


M 


m 


1 


l'  II  '■* 


m 


mM 


\M 


whom  ho  was  to  trade  Or  peltiics  and  provisions. 
After  lie  liad  traded  will:  these  people,  finislied 
his  trappings,  and  reeriiitcd  the  strengtli  of  the 
horses,  he  was  to  pr()c:;ed  to  Sahnon  Kiver  and 
rejoin    Captain   \\o)  .io,  who    intended   to   fix 

his  quarters  there  for  tlie  winter. 

Wiiile  these  .'irrungenienls  were  in  progress 
in  the  camp  of  Captain  Bonneville,  there  was  u 
sudden  biL^tle  and  stir  in  the  camp  of  Fontenelle. 
One  of  the  partners  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany had  arrived,  in  all  haste,  from  the  rendez- 
vous at  Pierre's  Hole,  in  quest  of  tlie  supplies. 
The  competition  between  the  two  rival  companies 
was  just  now  at  its  height,  and  prosecuted  with  un- 
usual zeal.  The  tramontane  concerns  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  were  managed  by 
two  resident  pnrtners,  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger ; 
those  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  by  Vander- 
burgh and  Dripps.  The  latter  were  ignorant  of 
the  mountain  regions,  but  trusted  to  make  up  by 
vigilance  and  activity  for  their  want  of  knowledge 
of  the  country, 

Fitzpatrick,  an  experienced  trader  and  trapper, 
knew  the  evils  of  competition  in  tlie  same  hunting 
grounds,  and  had  proposed  that  the  two  compa- 
nies should  divide  the  country,  so  as  to  hunt  in 
different  directions :  this  proposition  being  re- 
jected, he  had  exerted  himself  to  get  first  into 
the  field.  His  exertions,  as  has  already  been 
shown,    were    effectual.     The    early    arrival    of 

have  no  settled  residences ;  but  are  a  nomadic  people,  dwell- 
ing in  tents  or  lodges,  and  shifting  their  encampments  from 
alace  to  place,  according  as  fish  and  game  abound. 

S 


DKPARTUItE    OF  RIVAL    C0yfPANIE3.     Ill 

Su  jlette,  with  Hiip})H(!s,  liad  enabled  tlu!  various 
l)ri;jja(U!.s  of  tluj  Uoc^ky  MouiitJiiii  Company  to 
ptart  otf  to  tlieir  respective  hunting  grounds. 
Kitzpatrick  himself,  with  hs  a^jsociate,  Bridger, 
iiad  pushed  otf'  with  a  strong  party  of  trappers, 
for  a  prime  beaver  country  to  the  nortli-north- 
west. 

This  had  put  Vanderburgh  upon  his  mettle. 
He  had  hastened  on  to  meet  Fontenelle.  Find- 
ing liiin  at  his  camp  in  Green  River  Valley,  he 
immediately  furnished  himself  with  the  supplies; 
j)ut  himself  at  the  head  of  the  free  trappers  and 
Dela wares,  and  set  off  with  all  speed,  determined 
to  follow  hard  upon  the  heels  of  Fitzpatrick  and 
]5ritlger.  Of  the  adventures  of  these  parties 
amon({  the  mountains,  and  the  disiistrous  effects 
of  their  competition,  we  shall  have  occasion  to 
treat  in  a  future  chapter. 

Fontenelle  having  now  delivered  his  supplies 
and  accomplished  his  errand,  struck  his  *^nts  and 
set  off  on  his  return  to  the  Yellowstone.  Captain 
IJonneville  and  his  baud,  therefore,  remained 
alone  in  the  Green  River  Valley  ;  and  their  sit- 
uation might  have  been  pei'ilous,  had  the  Black- 
feet  band  still  lingered  in  the  vicinity.  Those 
marauders,  however,  had  been  dismayed  at  lind- 
iug  so  many  resohite  and  well-appointed  parties 
of  white  men  in  this  neighborhood.  They  had, 
therefore,  abandoned  this  pait  of  the  country, 
passing  over  the  head  waters  of  the  Green  River, 
und  bending  their  course  towards  the  Yellow- 
stone. Misfortune  pursued  them.  Their  route 
lay  through  the  country  of  their  deadly  enemies, 


i 


111  ■ 


f! 


\ 

i 

! 

:|, 

1       / 

1   ': 

■    '            >  : , 

- 

1    • 

'  ■( ' 

TI 

V 

; 

I'. 

I    * 

'    )  ' 

ill  ^ 


112 


B ONNK VI L LF^S  AD VEN TUHtJU. 


the  Cmws.  In  tlio  Wind  River  Valley,  whieK 
lies  east  of  tlie  njouiituins,  tliey  were  ein^ouutc'red 
by  a  powerful  war  party  of  that  tribe,  aiul  corn- 
pl(Mely  [)ut  to  rout.  Forty  of  them  were  k'lled, 
iiuitiy  of  their  women  ainl  ehildreii  captured,  and 
the  scattered  fugitives  hunted  like  wild  beasts, 
until  they  were  completely  chased  out  of  the 
Crow  country. 

On  tlie  22d  of  August  Cfiptain  Boimevillo 
broke  up  his  camp,  and  set  out  on  his  route  for 
Salmon  River.  His  baggage  was  arranged  m 
packs,  three  to  a  nmle,  or  pack-horse  ;  one  being 
dis[)osed  on  each  side  of  tlie  animal,  and  one  on  the 
top  ;  the  three  forming  a  load  of  from  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty  to  two  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds.  This  is  the  trappers'  style  of  loading 
their  pack-horses ;  his  men,  however,  were  in- 
expert at  adjusting  the  packs;  which  were  prone 
to  get  loose  and  slip  off;  so  that  it  was  necessary 
to  keep  a  rear-guard  to  assist  in  reloading.  A 
few  days'  experience,  however,  brought  them  into 
proper  training. 

Their  march  lay  up  the  valley  of  the  Seeds- 
ke-dee,  overlooked  to  the  right  by  the  lofty  peaks 
of  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  From  briirht 
little  lakes  and  fountain-heads  of  this  remarkable 
bed  of  mountains,  poured  forth  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Seeds-ke-dee.  Some  came  rush- 
ing down  gullies  and  ravineg ;  others  tumbling 
m  crystal  cascades  from  inaccessible  clefts  and 
rocks,  and  others  winding  their  way  in  rapid  and 
pellucid  currents  across  the  valley,  to  throw 
themselves  into  the  main  river.     So  transparent 


I 


roue 

X 

into 


rijjlit 


BUCKEYE  AND    THE  BEAR. 


113 


wcie  tlioMo  waters,  tluit  the  trout  with  which  they 
iihounded  could  he  seen  glidiu;:^  ahouL  r:fl  if*  in 
tlie  air ;  and  tiieir  pchldy  heds  were  di.sliiKrlly 
visible  at  the  depth  of  many  feet.  Tiiis  lieautilul 
and  diaphanous  quality  of  the  Rocky  IMouutaiu 
Pt reams,  prevails  for  a  long  time  after  they  have 
mingled  their  waters  and  swollen  into  important 
rivers. 

Issuinjy  from  the  upper  part  of  the  valley, 
Captain  Hofineville  continued  to  the  east-north- 
east, across  rough  and  lofty  ridges,  and  deep 
rocky  defiles,  extremely  fatiguing  both  to  man 
and  horse.  Among  his  hunters  was  a  Delaware 
Indian  who  had  remained  faithful  to  him.  His 
name  was  Buckeye.  He  had  often  prided  him- 
Belf  on  his  skill  and  success  in  coping  with  the 
grizzly  bear,  that  terror  of  the  hunters.  Though 
crippled  in  the  left  arm,  he  declared  he  had  no 
hesitation  to  close  with  a  wounded  bear,  and 
attack  him  with  a  sword.  If  armed  with  a  rifle, 
he  was  williufj  to  brave  the  animal  when  in  full 
force  and  fury.  He  had  twice  an  opportunity 
of  proving  his  prowess,  in  the  course  of  this 
mountain  journey,  and  was  each  time  successful. 
His  mode  was  to  seat  himself  upon  the  ground, 
with  his  rifle  cocked  and  resting  on  his  lame  arm. 
Thus  prepared,  he  would  await  the  approach  of 
the  bear  with  perfect  coolness,  nor  pull  trigger 
until  he  was  close  at  hand.  In  each  instance,  he 
laid  the  monster  dead  upon  the  spot. 

A  march  of  three  or  four  days,  through  savage 

and  lonely  scenes,  brought  Captain   Bonneville  to 

the  fatal   d(ifile  of  Jackson's  Hole,  where  poor 

8 


I  <  > 


if 


lU 


i ONNE  VILLI? S  AD  VEN  TUBES. 


I' 
'I 

'lit ) 

III-  'nii 


More  and   Foy  had   been  surprised  and  murdered 
by  the  Blackfeet.       The   feelings  of  the   captain 
w*>re  shocked  at  beholding  the  bones  of  these  un 
fortunate  young  men   bleaching  among  the  rocks ; 
and  he  caused  them  to  be  decently  interred. 

On  the  third  of  September  he  arrived  on  the 
summit  of  a  mountain  which  commaiided  a  full 
view  of  the  eventful  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole  ; 
whence  he  could  trace  the  winding  of  its  stream 
through  green  meadows  and  forests  of  willow 
and  cotton-wood,  and  have  a  prospect,  between 
distant  mountains,  of  the  lava  plains  of  Snake 
River,  dimly  spread  forth  like  a  sleeping  ocean 
belo^  . 

After  enjoying  this  magnificent  prospect,  he 
descended  into  the  valley,  and  visited  the  scenes 
of  the  late  desperate  conflict.  There  were  the 
remains  of  the  rude  fortress  in  the  swamp,  shat- 
tered by  rifle  shot,  and  strewed  witli  the  mingled 
bones  of  savages  and  horses.  There  was  the  late 
populous  and  noisy  rendezvous,  with  the  traces 
of  trappers*  camps  and  Indian  lodges ;  but  their 
fires  were  extinguished,  the  motley  assemblage 
of  trappers  and  hunters,  white  traders  and  Indian 
braves,  had  all  dispersed  to  different  points  of  the 
wilderness,  and  the  valley  had  relapsed  into  its 
pristine  solitude  and  silence. 

That  night  the  captain  encamped  upon  the 
battle  ground  ;  the  next  day  he  resumed  his  toil- 
some peregrinations  through  the  mountains.  For 
upwards  of  two  weeks  he  continued  his  painful 
march ;  both  men  and  horses  sufToring  excess- 
ively at  times  from  hunger  and  thirst.     At  length, 


FALSE  ALARM. 


115 


on  the  19th  of  Se{'toinber,  he  reached  the  upper 
waters  of  Salmon  River. 

The  weather  was  cold,  and  there  were  symp 
toms  of  an  impending  storm.  The  niglit  set  in, 
but  Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian,  was  missing. 
He  had  left  the  party  early  in  the  morning,  to 
hunt  by  himself,  according  to  his  custom.  Fears 
were  entertained  lest  he  should  lose  his  way 
and  become  bewildered  in  tempestuous  weather. 
These  fears  increased  on  the  following  morning, 
when  a  violent  snow-storm  came  on,  which  soon 
covered  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  several  inches. 
Captain  Bonneville  immediately  encamped,  and 
sent  out  scouts  in  every  direction.  After  some 
search  Buckeye  was  discovered,  quietly  seated  at 
a  considerable  distance  in  the  rear,  waiting  the 
expected  approach  of  the  party,  not  knowing  that 
they  had  passed,  the  snow  having  covered  their 
trail. 

On  the  ensuing  morning  they  resumed  their 
march  at  an  early  hour,  but  had  not  proceeded 
far  when  the  hunters,  who  were  beating  up  the 
country  in  the  advance,  came  galloping  back,  mak- 
ing signals  to  encamp,  and  crying  Indians !  Indians ! 

Captain  Bonneville  immediately  struck  into  a 
skirt  of  wood  and  prepared  for  action.  The  sav . 
ages  were  now  seen  trooping  over  the  hills  in 
great  numbers.  One  of  them  left  the  main  body 
and  came  forward  singly,  making  signals  of  peace. 
He  announced    them   as  a  band  of  Ncz   Perces^ 

-  We  should  observe  that  this  tribe  is  universally  called  by 
its  French  name,  which  is  pronounced  by  the  trappers,  iV'e- 
percy.  There  are  two  main  branches  of  this  tribe,  the  ui>pel 
Nepercys  and  the  lower  Nepercys,  as  we  ahall  show  hereafter. 


".  I   ,■ 


^H' 


I'lHi 


i*f 


-i 
f^ 


\  li 


»i 


■II 


i|f 


•I    I 


116  B  ONNE  VI LIE'S  AD  YEN  TURES, 

or  PiciTcd-nosed  iLuUjins,  frienlly  to  the  whites, 
\vhereiii)on  an  invitation  was  leturned  by  Captain 
Bonneville,  for  them  to  come  and  encamp  with 
him.  They  halted  for  a  short  time  to  make 
their  toilette,  an  operation  as  important  with  ac 
Indian  warrior  as  with  a  fashionable  beanty 
This  done,  they  arranged  themselves  in  martial 
style,  the  chiefs  leading  the  van,  the  braves  fol- 
lowing in  a  long  line,  painted  and  decorated,  and 
topped  off  with  fluttering  plumes.  In  this  way 
they  advanced,  shouting  and  singing,  firing  off 
their  fusees,  and  clashing  their  shields.  The 
two  parlies  encamped  hard  by  each  other.  The 
Nez  Perces  were  on  a  hunting  expedition,  but 
had  been  almost  famished  on  their  march.  They 
had  no  provisions  left  but  a  f^w  dried  salmon,  yet 
finding  the  white  men  equally  in  want,  they  gen- 
erously offered  to  share  even  this  meagre  pittance, 
and  frequently  repeated  the  offer,  with  an  ear- 
nestness that  left  no  doubt  of  their  sincerity. 
Their  generosity  won  the  heart  of  Captain  Bon- 
neville, and  produced  the  most  cordial  good-will 
on  the  part  of  his  men.  For  two  days  that  tlie 
parties  remained  in  company,  the  most  amicable 
intercourse  prevailed,  and  they  parted  the  best  of 
friends.  Captain  Bonneville  detached  a  few  men, 
under  Mr.  Cerre,  an  able  leader,  to  accompany 
the  Nez  Perces  on  their  hunting  expedition,  and 
to  trade  with  them  for  meat  for  the  winter's 
supply.  After  this,  he  proceeded  down  the  river 
About  five  miles  below  the  forks,  when  he  came 
to  a  halt  ou  the  26th  of  September,  to  establish 
bis  winter  quarters. 


n!l  -. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Horses  turned  loose. — Preparations  for  winter  quarters. — 
Hungry  times. — Noz  Percys,  their  honesty,  piety,  pacific 
habits,  religious  ceremonies. — Captain  Bonneville's  con- 
versations with  them. — Their  love  of  gambling. 

T  was  gratifying  to  Captain  Bonneville, 
after  so  long  and  toilsome  a  course  of 
travel,  to  relieve  his  poor  jaded  horses 
of  the  burdens  under  which  they  were  almost 
ready  to  give  out,  and  to  behold  them  rolling 
upon  the  grass,  and  taking  a  loni,^  repose  after  all 
their  sufferings.  Indeed,  so  exhausted  were  they, 
that  those  employed  under  the  saddle  were  no 
longer  capable  of  hunting  for  the  daily  subsis- 
tence of  the  camp. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  a  win- 
ter cantonment.  A  temporary  fortification  was 
thrown  up  for  the  protection  of  the  party ;  a 
secure  and  comfortable  pen,  into  which  the  horses 
could  be  driven  at  night ;  and  huts  were  built 
for  the  reception  of  the  merchandise. 

This  done,  Captain  Bonneville  made  a  distri- 
bution of  his  forces :  twenty  men  were  to  remain 
with  him  in  garrison  to  protect  the  property  ;  the 
rest  were  organized  into  three  brigades,  and  sent 
off  in  different  directions,  to  subsist  themselves  by 


1 

! 

* 

1 

i 

1 

! 

i 

1 

• 

; 

1 
1 

I 

1 
! 

i 

^ 

flfl^ 

118 


BONNEVILLTTS  ADVENTURES. 


fviUffi' 


hunting  the  buffalo,  until  the  snow  should  become 
too  deep. 

Indeed,  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  pro- 
vide for  the  whole  party  in  this  neighborhood. 
It  was  at  the  extreme  western  limit  of  the  buf- 
falo range,  and  these  animals  had  recently  been 
completely  hunted  out  of  the  neighborhood  by 
the  Nez  Perces,  so  that,  although  the  hunters  of 
the  garrison  were  contiruuilly  on  the  alert,  rang- 
ing the  country  round,  they  brought  in  scarce 
game  sufficient  to  keep  famine  from  the  door. 
Now  and  then  there  was  a  scanty  meal  of  fish  or 
wild  fowl,  occasionally  an  antelope ;  but  fre- 
quently the  cravings  of  hunger  had  to  be  ap- 
peased with  roots,  or  the  flesh  of  wolves  and 
muskrats.  Rarely  could  the  inmates  of  the  can- 
toiunent  boast  of  having  made  a  full  meal,  and 
never  of  having  wherewithal  for  the  morrow.  In 
this  way  they  starved  along  until  the  8th  of  Oc- 
tober, when  they  were  joined  by  a  party  of  five 
families  of  Nez  Perces,  who  in  some  measure 
reconciled  them  to  the  hardships  of  their  situa- 
tion, by  exhibiting  a  lot  still  more  destitute.  A 
more  forlorn  set  they  had  never  encountered : 
they  had  not  a  morsel  of  meat  or  fish ;  nor  any- 
thing to  subsist  on,  excepting  roots,  wild  rosebuds, 
the  barks  of  certain  plants,  and  other  vegetable 
productions  ;  neither  had  they  any  weapon  for 
hunting  or  defense,  excepting  an  old  spear :  yet 
the  poor  fellows  madf»,  no  murmur  nor  complaint ; 
but  seemed  accustomed  to  their  hard  fare.  If 
they  could  not  teach  the  white  men  their  practi- 
cal stoicism,  they  at  least  made  them  acquainted 


PIETY   OF   THE  NEZ  PERCES. 


119 


W'th  the  edible  properties  of  roots  and  wild  rose- 
buds, and  furnished  them  a  supply  from  their  own 
Btore.  The  necessities  of  the  camp  at  length 
became  so  urgent,  that  Captain  Bonneville  de- 
termined to  dispatch  a  party  to  the  Horse  Prairie, 
a  plain  to  the  north  of  his  cantonment,  to  procure 
a  supply  of  provisions.  When  the  men  were 
About  to  depart,  he  proposed  to  the  Nez  Perc<^s 
that  they,  or  some  of  them,  should  join  the  hunt- 
ing party.  To  his  surprise,  they  promptly  de- 
clined. He  inquired  the  reason  for  their  refusal, 
seeing  that  they  were  in  nea»-ly  as  starving  a 
situation  as  his  own  people.  They  replied  that 
it  was  a  sacred  day  with  them,  and  the  Great 
Spirit  would  be  angry  should  they  devote  it  to 
hunting.  They  offered,  however,  to  accompany 
the  party  if  it  would  delay  its  departure  until  the 
following  day ;  but  this  the  pinching  demands  of 
hunger  would  not  permit,  and  the  detachment 
proceeded. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  four  of  them  signified 
to  Captain  Bonneville  that  they  were  about  to 
hunt.  "  What !  "  exclaimed  he,  "  without  guns 
or  arrows  ;  and  with  only  one  old  spear  ?  What 
do  you  expect  to  kill  ? "  They  smiled  among 
themselves,  but  made  no  answer.  Preparatorj^ 
to  the  chase,  they  performed  some  religious  rites, 
ind  offered  up  to  the  Great  Spirit  a  few  short 
prayers  for  safety  and  success  ;  then,  having  re- 
ceived the  blessings  of  their  wives,  they  leaped 
upon  their  horses  and  departed,  leaving  the  whole 
party  of  Christian  spectators  amazed  and  rebuked 
Dy  this  lesson  of  faith  and  dependence  on  a  su- 


:■ 


; 


120 


B ONNE  VILLE'S  A D  VEN  TURKS. 


Ill* 


preme  and  benevolent  Being.  "  Accustomed,** 
adds  Captain  Bonneville,  "  as  I  had  heretofore 
been,  to  find  the  wretched  Indian  reveling  in 
blood,  and  stained  by  every  vice  which  can  de- 
grade human  nature,  I  could  scarcely  realize  the 
scene  which  I  had  witnessed.  Wonder  at  such 
unaffected  tenderness  and  piety,  where  it  was 
least  to  have  been  sought,  contended  in  all  our 
bosoms  with  shame  and  confusion,  at  receiving 
such  pure  and  wholesome  instructions  from  ciea- 
iures  so  far  below  us  in  all  the  arts  and  comforts 
of  life."  The  simple  prayers  of  the  poor  Indians 
were  not  unheard.  In  the  course  of  four  or  five 
days  they  returned,  laden  with  meat.  Captain 
Bonneville  was  curious  to  know  how  they  had 
attained  such  success  with  such  scanty  means. 
They  gave  him  to  understand  that  they  had 
chased  the  herds  of  buffalo  at  full  speed,  until 
they  tired  them  down,  when  they  easily  dis- 
patched them  with  the  spear,  and  made  use  of 
the  same  weapon  to  flay  the  carcasses.  To  cany 
through  their  lesson  to  their  Christian  friends, 
the  poor  savages  were  as  charitable  as  they  had 
been  pious,  and  generously  shared  with  them  the 
spoils  of  their  hunting;  givuig  them  food  enough 
to  last  for  several  days. 

A  further  and  more  intimate  intercourse  with 
this  tribe  gave  Captain  Bonneville  still  greater 
jause  to  admire  their  strong  devotional  feeling. 
"  Simply  to  call  these  people  religious,"  says  he, 
"  would  convey  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  deep  hue 
of  piety  and  devotion  which  pervades  their  whole 
conduct.     Their  honesty  is  immaculate,  aud  their 


the 
ugh 


iiig. 

he, 

hue 

lole 

heir 


RELIGIOUS    C  ERE  MONIES. 


121 


purity  of  purpose,  and  their  ohservance  of  the 
rites  of  theT  religion,  are  inos^t  unitbrm  antl 
remarkable.  Tliey  are,  certainly,  more  like  a 
nation  of  saints   than  a   horde  of  savages." 

In  fact,  tlie  antibelligerent  policy  of  this  tribe 
may  have  sprung  from  the  doctrines  of  Christ ijin 
charity,  for  it  would  appear  that  they  had  im- 
bibed some  notions  of  the  Christian  faith  from 
Catholic  missionaries  and  traders  who  had  been 
among  them.  They  even  had  a  rude  calendar  of 
the  fasts  and  festivals  of  the  Romish  Church,  and 
some  traces  of  its  ceremonials.  These  luive  be- 
come blended  with  their  own  wild  rites,  and 
present  a  strange  medley,  civilized  and  bar- 
barous. On  the  Sabbath,  men,  women,  and 
children  array  themselves  in  their  best  style,  and 
assemble  round  a  pole  erected  at  the  head  of  the 
camp.  Here  they  go  through  a  wild  fantastic 
ceremonial ;  strongly  resembling  the  religious 
dance  of  the  Shaking  Quakers ;  but  from  its 
enthusiasm,  much  more  striking  and  impressive. 
During  the  intervals  of  the  ceremony,  the  prin- 
cipal chiefs,  who  officiate  as  priests,  instruct  them 
in  their  duties,  and  exhort  them  to  virtue  and 
good  deeds. 

'-  There  is  something  antique  and  patriarchal," 
observes  Captain  Bonneville,  "  in  this  union  of 
the  offices  of  leader  and  priest  ;  as  there  is  in 
many  of  their  customs  and  manners,  which  are 
ill  strongly  imbued  with  religion." 

The  worthy  captain,  indeed,  appears  to  have 
been  strongly  interested  by  this  gleam  of  uidooked 
for  light  amidst  the  darkness   of  the   wilderness. 


1  ■'■'rm 

\     '       1 

1 

■1  ■  ^ 

1 

!i  'i 

;i 

:     i 

i  i 


)\A 


122 


B ONNEVrLLFTS  A  D  VFNTVRKS, 


"""'''111' 


Tie  exerted  himself,  duriiifr  l»Ia  sojourn  among 
tills  simple  j;>id  well-disposed  pciople,  to  inculcate, 
as  far  as  he  was  able,  the  gentle  and  humanizing 
precepts  of  tlie  Christian  faith,  and  to  make  them 
acquainted  with  the  leading  j)oints  of  its  history  ; 
and  it  spejiks  highly  for  the  purity  and  benignity 
of  his  heart,  that  he  derived  unmixed  happiness 
from  the  task. 

"  Many  a  time,"  says  he,  "  was  my  little  lodge 
thronged,  or  rather  piled  with  hearers,  for  they 
lay  on  the  ground,  one  leaning  over  the  other, 
until  there  was  no  further  room,  all  listening 
with  greedy  ears  to  the  wonders  which  the  Great 
Spirit  had  revealed  to  the  white  man.  No  other 
feubject  gave  them  half  the  satisfaction,  or  com- 
manded half  the  attention  ;  and  but  ^aw  scenes 
in  my  life  remain  so  freshly  on  my  memory,  or 
are  so  pleasurably  recalled  to  my  contemplation, 
as  these  hours  of  intercourse  with  a  distant  and 
benighted   race  in  the  midst  of  the  desert." 

The  only  excesses  indulged  in  by  this  temper- 
ate and  exemplary  people,  appear  to  be  gambling 
and  horseracing.  In  these  they  engage  with  an 
eagerness  that  amounts  to  infatuation.  Knots  of 
o-amblers  will  assemble  before  one  of  their  lod^e 
fires,  early  in  th.e  evening,  and  remain  absorbed 
in  the  chances  and  changes  of  the  game  until 
long  after  dawn  of  the  following  day.  As  night 
advances,  they  wax  warmer  and  warmer.  Bets 
increase  in  amount,  one  loss  only  serves  to  lead 
to  a  greater,  until  in  the  course  of  a  single  night's 
gambling,  the  richest  chief  may  become  the 
poorest  varlet  in  the  camp. 


CHAPTER  X. 


n 


Blackfoet  in  the  Horse  Prairie.  — Soareli  af^^r  the  hunters.  — 
DifHcuUies  and  danj^ers.  —  A  card  parly  in  the  wiiileniess. 
—  The  card  party  interrupted.  —  "Old  Skd^e,"  ti  losing 
game.  —  Visitors  to  tlie  camp.  —  Iroquois  huaters.  — Hang* 
ing-eared  Indians. 


I  per- 
iling 


in  til 
light 
Bets 
lead 
rht'a 
the 


N  the  12th  of  October,  two  young  In- 
dians of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe  arrived 
at  Captain  Bonneville's  encami)inent. 
They  were  on  their  way  homeward,  but  had 
been  obliged  to  swerve  from  their  ordinary  route 
through  the  mountains,  by  deep  snows.  Their 
new  route  took  them  through  the  Horse  Prairie. 
In  traversing  it,  they  had  been  attracted  by  the 
distant  smoke  of  a  camp  fire,  and,  on  stealing 
near  to  reconnoitre,  had  discovered  a  war  party 
of  Blackfeet.  They  had  several  horses  with 
them ;  and,  as  they  generally  go  on  foot  on 
warlike  excursions,  it  was  concluded  that  these 
horses  had  been  captured  in  the  course  of  their 
maraudinjjs. 

This  intellijTence  awakened  solicitude  on  the 
tuind  of  Captain  Bonneville,  for  the  party  of 
hunters  whom  he  had  sent  to  that  neighborhood; 
and  the  Nez  Perces,  when  informed  of  the  cir- 
cumstance, shook  their  heads,  and  declared  their 


124 


B ONN E VI LL h?8  AD VEN T URES, 


m. 


mm 


belief  that  the    horses  they  had  seen  had  been 
Btolen  from  that  very  party. 

Anxious  for  information  on  tlie  subject,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  dispatched  two  hunters  to  beat 
up  the  country  in  that  direction.  They  searched 
in  vain  ;  not  a  trace  of  the  men  could  l)e  found 
but  they  got  into  a  region  destitute  of  game,  where 
they  were  well-nigh  famished.  At  one  time,  they 
were  three  entire  days  without  a  mouthful  of 
food ;  at  length  they  beheld  a  buffalo  grazing  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountiun.  After  maneuvering  so 
as  to  get  within  shot,  they  fired,  but  merely 
wounded  him.  He  took  to  flight,  and  they  fol- 
lowed him  over  hill  and  dale,  with  the  eagerness 
and  perseverance  of  starving  men.  A  more 
lucky  shot  brought  him  to  the  ground.  Stanfield 
sprang  upon  him,  plunged  his  knife  into  his 
throat,  and  allayed  his  raging  hunger  by  drink- 
ing his  blood.  A  fire  was  instantly  kindled  be- 
side the  carcass,  when  the  two  hunters  cooked, 
and  ate  again  and  agam,  until,  perfectly  gorged, 
they  sank  to  sleep  before  their  hunting  fire.  On 
the  following  morning  they  rose  early,  made  an- 
other hearty  meal,  then  loading  themselves  with 
buffalo  meat,  set  out  on  their  return  to  the  camp, 
to  report  the  fruitlessness  of  their  mission. 

At  length,  after  six  weeks'  absence,  the  hun- 
ters made  their  appearance,  and  were  received 
with  joy,  proportioned  to  the  anxiety  that  had 
been  felt  on  their  account.  They  had  hunted 
with  success  on  the  prairie,  but,  v^^hile  busy  dry- 
ing buffalo  meat,  were  joined  by  a  few  panic- 
stricken  Flatheads,  who    informed  them  that   a 


RETURN  OF  THE  HUNTERS. 


125 


nted 
dry- 
inic- 
at   a 


powerful  band  of  Blackfoet  were  at  liand.  Tlie 
hunters  immediately  abandoncMl  the  dan<^erous 
huntinj^  ground,  and  accompanied  the  Flatheads 
to  their  vilhige.  Here  they  fo  iid  Mr.  Cerrd, 
and  tlio  detachment  of  hunters  sent  with  him  to 
acicompany  the  hunting  party  of  the  Ncz  Perc<5s. 

After  remaining  some  time  at  the  villnge,  until 
thtiy  supposed  the  Blackfeet  to  have  left  the 
neighborhood,  they  set  off  with  some  of  INIr. 
Cerrd's  men,  for  the  cantonment  of  Salmon 
lliver,  where  they  arrived  without  accident. 
They  informed  Captain  Bonneville,  however, 
that  not  far  from  his  (quarters,  they  had  found  a 
wallet  of  fresh  meat  and  a  cord,  which  tln^y  sup- 
posed hud  been  left  by  some  prowling  Blackfeet. 
A  few  days  afterwards,  Mr.  Cerre,  with  the  re- 
mainder of  his  men,  likewise  arrived  at  the  can- 
tonment. 

Mr.  Walker,  one  of  the  subleaders,  who  had 
gone  \Yith  a  band  of  twenty  hunters,  to  range  the 
country  just  leyond  the  Horse  Prairie,  had,  like- 
wise, his  share  of  adventures  with  the  all-pervad- 
ing Blackfeet.  At  one  of  his  encampments,  the 
guard  stationed  to  keep  watch  round  the  camp 
grew  weary  of  their  duty,  and  feeling  a  little  too 
secure,  and  too  much  at  hom'>  on  these  prairies, 
retired  to  a  small  grove  of  willows,  to  amuse 
themselves  with  a  social  game  of  cards,  called 
"old  sledge,"  which  is  as  popular  among  these 
trampers  of  the  prairies,  as  whist  or  ecartd  among 
the  polite  circles  of  the  cities.  From  the  midst 
of  their  sport,  they  were  suddenly  roused  by  a 
discharge   of  fire-arms,  and    a  shrill  war-wlioop. 


,:|    i:        ! 


ir* 


l|ii 


120 


BONNEVILLI'.  6  ADVENTURES, 


Stnrtiiij^  oil  tli(;ir  feet,  und  siKitc]iiii«^  up  theii 
rifK^H,  tlicy  bclicld  in  disinay  tlujir  horsos  juhI 
mules  ali(.':i(ly  in  possession  of  the  enemy,  who 
liiid  stolen  upon  the  camp  un[)er('eived,  while 
they  were  spell-hountl  hy  the  niaijic  of  "  old 
Hl(!di:;e."  The  Indians  sprang'  upon  the  animals 
barebacked,  and  endeavored  to  ur<^e  them  off 
under  a  <iillini»  fire,  that  did  some  execution. 
The  nudes,  however,  (;onf(junded  by  the  hurly- 
burly,  and  dislikin<r  their  n(!W  I'iders,  kicked  up 
their  luHils  and  dismounted  half  of  theui,  in  spite 
of  their  hois(;manship.  This  threw  the  rest  into 
confusion  ;  they  endeavored  to  protect  their  un- 
horsed comrades  from  the  furious  assaults  of  the 
whites ;  but,  after  a  scene  of  "  confusion  worse 
(jonfounded,"  horses  and  mules  were  abandoned, 
and  the  Indians  betook  themselves  to  the  bushes. 
Here  they  quickly  scratched  holes  in  the  earth 
about  two  fcict  deep,  in  which  they  prostrated 
themselves,  and  while  thus  screened  from  the 
shots  of  the  white  men,  were  enabled  to  make 
such  use  of  tlieir  bows  and  arrow^s  and  fusees  as 
to  repulse  tlieir  assailants,  and  to  efl'ect  their  re- 
treat. This  adventure  threw  a  temporary  stigma 
upon  the  game  of  "  old  slodge." 

In  the  course  of  the  autumn,  four  Irociuois 
hunters,  driven  by  the  snow  from  their  hunting 
grounds,  made  their  appearance  at  the  cantonment. 
They  were  kindly  welcomed,  and  during  their  so- 
journ made  themselves  useful  in  a  variety  of 
ways,  being  excellent  trapj)ers  and  first-rate  woods- 
men. They  weic  of  tlie  remnants  of  a  party  oi 
lro<j[Uois  hunters,  that  came  from  Canada  into  these 


VISIT  OF  PKSDS    0Ri:iLLE8. 


127 


mountain  n»«(i<)ns  many  yoars  proviously,  in  tlio 
employ  of  tli(3  Hudson's  I  Jay  (.'Ompany.  'l'li<'y 
wurc  led  by  u  bravo  cliict'tain,  named  Pierre,  wl»o 
fell  by  the  hands  of  tlie  Iihiekfecit,  and  ^Jave  hiH 
name  to  the  fated  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole.  This 
branch  of  the  Iro(|Uois  tribe  has  ever  sinre  re- 
mained among  these  mountains,  at  mortal  enmity 
with  the  Blackfeet,  and  have  lost  many  of  thei: 
piime  hunters  in  their  feuds  witli  that  ferocious 
race.  Some  of  them  fell  in  with  General  Ashley, 
in  the  course  of  one  (>f  his  mdlant  excursions  into 
the  wild(;rness,  and  have  continued  ever  since  in 
the  emi)loy  of  the  com[)any. 

Among  the  motley  visitors  to  the  wintei 
(juarters  of  Ca}>tain  Bonneville,  was  a  party  of 
Tends  Oreilles  (or  Hanging-ears)  and  their  chief. 
These  Indians  iiave  a  strong  resemblance,  in 
character  and  customs,  to  the  Nez  Perces.  Th3y 
amount  to  about  three  hun<b'ed  lodges,  and  are 
well  armed,  and  possess  great  numbers  of  horses. 
During  the  spring,  summer,  and  autumn  they 
hunt  the  buffalo  about  the  head  waters  of  the  IMis- 
souri,  Henry's  Fork  of  the  Snake  River,  and  the 
northern  branches  of  Salmon  River.  Their  winter 
quarters  are  upon  the  Racine  Amere,  where  they 
subsist  upon  roots  and  dried  buffalo  meat.  Ui)on 
this  river  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  have  estab- 
lished a  trading  post,  where  the  Fends  Oreilles 
wid  the  Flatheads  bring  their  peltries  to  exchange 
for  arms,  clothing,  and  trinkets. 

This  tribe,  like  the  Nez  Perces,  evince  strong 
and  [)eculiar  feelings  of  natural  piety.  Their 
religion  is  not  a  mere  superstitious  fear,  like  that 


128 


D  ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VEN  TURES. 


liiil 


1!|  Ifll 


ii 


of  most  savages ;  they  evince  abstract  notions  of 
morality,  a  deej)  reverence  for  an  overi-uling 
Spirit,  and  a  respect  for  the  rights  of  their  fellow- 
men.  Ill  one  respect,  their  religion  partakes  of 
the  pacific  doctrines  of  the  Quakers.  They  hold 
that  the  Great  Spirit  is  displeased  with  all  nations 
who  wantonly  engage  in  war;  they  abstain,  there- 
fore, from  all  aggressive  hostilities.  But  though 
thus  unoffending  in  their  policy,  they  are  called 
upon  continually  to  wage  defensive  warfare, 
especially  with  the  Blackfeet;  with  whom,  in  the 
course  of  their  hunting  expeditions,  they  come  in 
frequent  collision,  and  have  desperate  battles. 
Their  conduct  as  warriors  is  without  fear  or  re- 
proach, and  they  can  never  be  driven  to  abandon 
their  hunting  grounds. 

Like  most  savages,  they  are  firm  believers  in 
dreams,  and  in  the  power  and  efficacy  of  charms 
and  amulets,  or  medicines,  as  they  term  them. 
Some  of  their  braves,  also,  who  have  had  numer- 
ous hair-breadth  'scapes,  like  the  old  Nez  Perce 
chief  in  the  battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  are  believed 
to  wear  a  charmed  life,  and  to  be  bullet  proof. 
Of  these  gifted  beings  marvelous  anecdotes  are 
related,  wliich  are  most  potently  believed  by  their 
fellow-savages,  and  sometimes  almost  credited  by 
the  wlut-e  hunters. 


li 


CHAPTER  XL 

Kival  trapping  parties.  —  Maneuvering.  —  A  desperate  game 
— Vanderburgh  and  the  Blackfeet. — Deserted  camp  fire. — 
A  dark  delile.  —  An  Indian  ambush. — A  fierce  melde. — 
Fatal  consequences.  —  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger.  —  Trappers* 
precautions.  —  Meeting  with  the  Hlackfeet. — More  fight- 
ing.—  Anecdote  of  a  young  Mexican  and  an  Indiau  girl. 

[IILE  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men 
are  sojourning  among  the  Nez  Perces, 
on  Salmon  River,  we  will  inquire  after 
the  fortunes  of  those  doughty  rivals  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  American  Fur  Companies,  who 
started  off  for  the  trapping  grounds  to  the  north- 
northwest. 

Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of  the  former  company, 
as  we  have  already  shown,  having  received  their 
supplies,  had  taken  the  lead,  and  hoped  to  have  the 
first  sweep  of  the  hunting  ground.  Vanderburgh 
and  Dripps,  however,  the  two  resident  partners 
of  the  opposite  company,  by  extraordinar}^  exer- 
tions, were  enabled  soon  to  put  themselves  upon 
their  traces,  and  pressed  forward  with  such  speed 
as  to  overtake  th^m  just  as  they  had  reached  the 
heart  of  the  beaver  country.  In  fact,  being  ig- 
norant of  the  best  trapi)iiig  grounds,  it  was  their 
object  to  follow  on  and  profit  by  the  superior 
knowledge  of  the  other  party. 


1 

^l 

'1 

1 

;               :  { 

:         ^  f 

1 

I 

1 

i  ' 

;    1 

i 

■    I 

III 


t : 


130 


B0^  XEVILLFTS  ADVENT IjREa, 


'i\ii 


Notl)ing  could  equal  the  chaf^rin  of  Fitzpatrick 
and  Bndger,  at  being  dogged  by  their  inexperi- 
enced rivals;  especially  after  their  offer  to  divide' 
the  country  with  them.  They  tried  in  every  way  to 
blind  and  baffle  them  ;  to  steal  a  march  upon  them, 
or  lead  them  on  a  wrong  scent ;  but  all  in  vain. 
Vanderburgh  made  up  by  activity  and  intelligence, 
for  his  ignorance  of  the  country  ;  was  always  wary, 
always  on  the  alert ;  discovered  every  movement 
of  his  rivals,  however  secret,  and  was  not  to  be 
eluded  or  misled. 

Fitzpatrick  and  his  colleague  now  lost  all 
patience :  since  the  others  persisted  in  following 
them,  they  determined  to  give  them  an  unprofit- 
able chase,  and  to  sacrifice  the  hunting  season, 
rather  than  share  the  products  with  their  rivals. 
They  accordingl}'^  took  up  their  line  of  march  down 
the  course  of  the  Missouri,  keeping  the  main 
Blackfoot  trail,  and  tramping  doggedly  forward, 
without  stopping  to  set  a  single  trap.  The  others 
beat  the  hoof  after  them  for  some  time,  but  by 
degrees  began  to  perceive  that  they  were  on  a 
wild-goose  chase,  and  getting  into  a  country  per- 
fectly barren  to  the  trapper.  They  now  came  to 
a  halt,  and  bethought  themselves  how  to  mal^e  up 
for  lost  time,  and  improve  the  remainder  of  the 
season.  It  was  thought  best  to  divide  their  forces 
and  try  different  trapping  grounds.  AYhile  Dripps 
went  in  one  direction,  Vanderburgh,  with  about 
fifty  men,  proceeded  in  another.  The  latter,  in 
his  headlong  march,  had  got  hi  to  the  very  heart 
of  the  Blackfoot  ccantry,  yet  seems  to  have  l»een 
ancoDscious  of  his  danger.     As  his  scouts  were 


all 


up 

the 

irces 


BLACK  FOOT  A  MB  USH. 


131 


out  one  clay,  tliey  came  upon  the  traces  of  a  recent 
band  of  savages.  There  were  tlie  deserted  lirea 
still  smoking,  surrounded  by  the  carcasses  of 
})uffaloes  just  killed.  It  was  evident  a  party  of 
Blackfeet  had  been  friMitened  from  their  hunting 
camp,  and  had  retreated,  probably  to  seek  reinforce- 
ments. The  scouts  hastened  back  to  the  camp, 
and  told  Vanderburgh  what  they  had  seen.  He 
made  light  of  the  alarm,  and,  taking  nine  men  with 
him,  galloped  off  to  reconnoitre  for  himself.  He 
found  the  deserted  hunting  camp  just  as  they  liad 
represented  it ;  there  lay  the  carcasses  of  buffa- 
loes, partly  dismembered ;  there  were  the  smoulder- 
ing fires,  still  sending  up  their  wreaths  of  smoke ; 
everything  bore  traces  of  recent  and  hasty  retreat ; 
and  gave  i-eason  to  believe  that  the  savages  were 
still  lurking  in  the  neighborhood.  With  heedless 
daring,  Vanderburgh  put  himself  upon  their  trail, 
to  trace  them  to  their  place  of  concealment.  It 
led  him  over  prairies,  and  through  skirts  of  wood- 
land, until  it  entered  a  dark  and  dangerous  ravine. 
Vanderburgh  pushed  in,  without  hesitation,  fol- 
lowed by  his  little  band.  They  soon  found  them- 
selves in  a  gloom.y  dell,  between  steep  banks  over- 
hung with  trees ;  where  the  profound  silence  was 
only  broken  by  the  tramp  of  their  own  horses. 
Suddenly  the  horrid  war-whoop  burst  on  their 
ears,  mingled  with  the  sharp  report  of  rifles,  and 
a  legion  of  savages  sprang  from  their  conceal- 
ments, yelling,  and  shaking  their  buffalo  robes  to 
frighten  the  horses.  Vanderburgh's  horse  fell, 
mortally  wounded  ])y  the  first  discharge.  In  his 
fall,   he   pinned   his   rider    to   the  ground ;    who 


:  1 

! 

1 

i 

* 
t 

/ 

; 

i  \ 

j 

' 

.|::: 

• 

M 


132 


B ONNE  VI LIE'S  A  D  VENTURES, 


called  in  vain  upon  his  men  to  assist  in  extricat- 
ing him.  One  was  shot  down  and  scalped  a  few 
paces  distant ;  most  of  the  others  were  severely 
wounded,  and  sought  their  safety  in  flight.  The 
savages  approached  to  dispatch  the  unfortunate 
leader,  as  he  lay  struggling  beneath  his  horse. 
lie  had  still  his  rifle  in  his  hand,  and  his  pistols 
in  his  belt.  The  first  savage  that  advanced  re- 
ceived the  contents  of  the  rifle  in  his  breast,  and 
fell  dead  upon  the  spot ;  but  before  Vanderburgh 
could  draw  a  pistol,  a  blow  from  a  tomahawk  laid 
him  prostrate,  and  he  was  dispatched  by  repeated 
wounds. 

Such  was  the  fate  of  Major  Henry  Vander- 
burgh :  one  of  the  best  and  worthiest  leaders  of 
tiie  American  Fur  Company  ;  who,  by  his  manly 
bearing  and  dauntless  courage,  is  said  to  have 
made  himself  universally  popular  among  the  bold- 
hearted  rovers  of  the  wilderness. 

Tliose  of  the  little  band  who  escaped  fled  in 
consternation  to  the  camp,  and  spread  direful  re- 
ports of  the  force  and  ferocity  of  the  enemy. 
The  party,  being  without  a  head,  were  in  com- 
plete confusion  and  dismay,  and  made  a  precipi- 
tate ret  eat,  without  attempting  to  recover  the  re- 
mains of  their  butchered  leader.  They  made  no 
halt  until  they  reached  the  encampment  of  the 
Pends  Oreilles,  or  Hanging-ears,  where  they 
offered  a  reward  for  the  recovery  of  the  body, 
but  without  success  ;  it  never  could  be  found. 

In  the  meantime  Fitzpatrick  and  Bridger,  of 
the  Rocky  Mountain  Company,  fared  but  little 
l)etter  than  their  rivals.     In   their  eairerness  to 


m 


\l$.l\ 


TRAPPERS'  PRECAUTION, 


135 


mislead  them,  they  had  betrayed  themselves  into 
danger,  and  got  into  a  region  infested  with  the 
Blackfeet.  They  soon  found  that  foes  were  on 
the  watch  for  them  ;  but  they  were  experienced 
in  Indian  warfire,  and  not  to  be  surprised  at 
night,  nor  drawn  into  an  ambush  in  the  day-time. 
As  the  evening  advanced,  the  horses  were  all 
brought  in  and  picketed,  and  a  guard  was  sta- 
tioned round  the  camp.  At  the  earliest  streak 
of  day  one  of  the  leaders  would  mount  his  horse, 
and  gallop  off  full  speed  for  about  half  a  mile  ; 
then  look  round  for  Indian  trails,  to  ascertain 
whether  there  had  been  any  lurkers  round  the 
camp :  returning  slowly,  he  would  reconnoitre 
every  ravi '  nd  thicket  where  there  might  be 
an  ambush.  This  done,  he  would  gallop  off  in 
an  opposite  direction  and  repeat  the  same  scru- 
tiny. Finding  all  things  safe,  the  horses  would 
be  turned  loose  to  graze,  but  always  under  the 
eye  of  a  guard. 

A  caution  equally  vigilant  was  observed  in  the 
march,  on  approaching  any  defile  or  place  where 
an  enemy  might  lie  in  wait ;  and  scouts  were  al- 
ways kept  in  the  advance,  or  along  the  ridges  and 
rising  grounds  on  the  flanks. 

At  length,  one  day,  a  large  band  of  Blackfeet 
appeared  in  the  open  field,  but  in  the  vicinity  of 
rocks  and  cliffs.  They  kept  at  a  wary  distance, 
but  made  friendly  signs.  The  trappers  replied 
in  the  same  way,  but  likewise  kept  aloof.  A 
small  party  of  Indians  now  advanced,  bearing  the 
pipe  of  peace ;  they  were  met  by  an  equal  num- 
ber of  white  men,  and  they  formed  a  group,  mid- 


«i  I 


IJ 


I 


134 


B ONNE  VILLE'S  A D VENTURES. 


way  between  tlie  two  bands,  wbere  the  pipe  i^as 
circulated  from  hand  to  hand,  and  smoked  with 
all  due  ceremony.  An  instance  of  natural  affec- 
tion took  place  at  this  pacific  meeting.  Among 
the  free  trappers  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  band, 
was  a  spirited  young  Mexican,  named  Loretto ; 
who,  in  the  course  of  his  wanderings,  had  ran- 
«3omed  a  beautiful  Blackfoot  girl  from  a  band  of 
Crows  by  whom  she  had  been  captured.  He 
made  her  his  wife,  aftei  the  Indian  style,  and  she 
had  followed  his  fortunes  ever  since,  with  the 
most  devoted  affection. 

Among  the  Blackfeet  warriors  who  advanced 
with  the  calumet  of  peace,  she  recognized  a 
brother.  Leaving  her  mfant  with  Loretto,  she 
rushed  forward  and  threw  herself  upon  her  broth- 
er's neck ;  who  clasped  his  long-lost  sister  to  his 
heart,  with  a  warmth  of  affection  but  little  com- 
patible with  the  reputed  stoicism  of  the  savage. 

While  this  scene  was  taking  place,  Bridger 
left  the  main  body  of  trappers,  and  rode  slowly 
towards  the  group  of  smokers,  with  his  rifle  rest- 
ing across  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  The  chief 
of  the  Blackfeet  stepped  forward  to  meet  him. 
From  some  unfortunate  feeling  of  distrust,  Brid- 
ger cocked  his  rifle  just  as  the  chief  was  extend- 
ing his  hand  in  friendship.  The  quick  ear  of  the 
savage  Ciiught  the  click  of  the  lock  ;  in  a  twink- 
ling, he  grasped  the  barrel,  forcing  the  muzzle 
downward,  and  the  contents  were  discharged  hito 
the  earth  at  his  feet.  His  next  movement  was 
to  wrest  the  weapon  from  the  hand  of  Bridger, 
and  fell  him  with  it  to  the  earth.     He  might 


LORKTIO  AND  UTS  INDIAN    WIFE.     135 

have  foiiiid  this  no  easy  task,  had  not  the  unfor 
tunate  leader   received   two  arrows   m   his  back 
during  the  struggle. 

The  chief  now  sjjrang  into  the  vacant  saddle 
and  galloped  off  to  his  band.  A  wild  hurry- 
slvurry  scene  ensued ;  each  party  took  to  the 
banks,  the  rocks,  and  trees,  to  gain  favorable  po- 
sitions, and  an  irregular  firing  was  kept  up  on 
either  side,  without  much  effect.  The  Indian 
girl  had  been  hurried  off  by  her  people,  at  the 
outbreak  of  the  affray.  She  would  have  returned, 
through  the  dangers  of  the  fight,  to  her  husband 
and  her  child,  but  was  prevented  by  her  brother. 
The  young  Mexican  saw  her  struggles  and  her 
agony,  and  heard  her  piercing  cries.  With  a 
generous  impulse,  he  caught  up  the  child  in  his 
arms,  rushed  forward,  regardless  of  Indian  shaft 
or  rifle,  and  placed  it  in  safety  upon  her  bosom 
Even  the  savage  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  chief  was 
reached  by  this  noble  deed.  He  pronounced 
Loretto  a  madman  for  his  temerity,  but  bade  him 
depart  in  peace.  The  young  Mexican  hesitated  : 
he  urged  to  have  his  wife  restored  to  him,  but  her 
brother  interfered,  and  the  countenance  of  the 
chief  grew  dark.  The  girl,  he  said,  belonged  to 
his  tribe  —  she  must  remain  with  her  people. 
Loretto  would  still  have  lingered,  but  his  wife 
implored  him  to  depart,  lest  his  life  should  be  en- 
dangered. It  was  with  the  greatest  reluctance 
that  he  returned  to  his  companions. 

The  approach  of  nighb  put  an  end  to  the  skir- 
mishing fire  of  the  adverse  parties,  and  the  sav- 
ages drew  off  without  renewing  their  hostilities. 


mm 


J 


136 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


M 


We  cannot  but  remark,  that  both  in  this  affiiii 
and  in  that  of  Pierre's  Hole,  the  affray  commenced 
by  a  hostile  act  on  the  part  of  white  men,  at  the 
moment  when  the  Indian  warrior  was  extending 
tlie  hand  of  amity.  In  neither  instance,  as  far 
as  circnmstances  have  been  stated  to  us  by  differ- 
ent persons,  do  we  see  any  reason  to  suspect  tlie 
savage  chiefs  of  perfidy  in  their  overtures  of  friend- 
ship. Tliey  advanced  in  the  confiding  way,  usual 
among  Indians  when  they  bear  the  pipe  of  peace, 
and  consider  themselves  sacred  from  attack.  If 
we  violate  the  sanctity  of  this  ceremonial,  by  any 
hostile  movement  on  our  part,  it  is  we  who  incur 
the  charge  of  faithlessness  ;  and  we  doubt  not  that 
in  both  these  instances  the  white  men  have  been 
considered  by  the  Blackfeet  as  the  aggressors,  and 
have,  in  consequence,  been  held  up  as  men  not 
to  be  trusted. 

A  word  to  conclude  the  romantic  incident  of 
Loretto  and  his  Indian  bride.  A  few  months 
subsequent  to  the  event  just  related,  the  young 
Mexican  settled  his  accounts  vith  the  Kocky 
Mountain  Company,  and  obtained  his  discharge. 
He  then  left  his  comrades  and  set  off  to  rejoin 
his  wife  and  child  among  her  people ;  and  we 
understand  that,  at  the  time  we  are  writing  these 
pages,  he  resides  at  a  trading-house  established  of 
late  by  the  American  Fur  Company,  in  the  Black- 
foot  country,  where  he  acts  as  an  interpreter  and 
has  his  Indian  girl  with  him. 


! 


t 


iLl! 


ilti 


I!  frH'     I 


CHAPTER  XIL 

A  wiitor  camp  in  the  wilderness.  —  Medley  of  trappers,  hun- 
ters, and  Indians.  —  Scarcity  of  game.  —  New  arrange- 
ments in  the  camp.  —  Detachments  sent  to  a  distance.  — 
Carelessness  of  the  Indiars  when  encamped.  —  Sickness 
among  the  Indians.  —  Exce.lent  character  of  the  Nez  Perec's. 
—  The  Captain's  effort  as  a  pacificator. — A  Nez  Percy's  ar- 
gument in  favor  of  war.  —  Kobberies  by  the  lilackfeet. — 
Long  sutfering  of  the  Nez  Perct^s.  —  A  hunter's  elysium 
among  the  mountains.  —  More  robberies.  —  The  Captain 
preaclie.s  up  a  crusade.  —  The  effect  upon  his  bearers. 


OR  the  greater  part  of  the  month  of 
November,  Captain  Bonneville  remained 
in  his  temporary  post  on  Salmon  River, 
lie  was  now  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  wishes  ; 
leading  a  hunter's  life  in  the  heart  of  the  wilder- 
ness, with  all  its  wild  populace  around  him. 
Beside  his  own  people,  motley  in  character  and 
costume  —  Creole,  Kentuckian,  Indian,  half-breed, 
hired  trapper,  and  free  trapper  —  he  was  sur- 
rounded by  encampments  of  Nez  Perces  and 
Flatheads,  with  their  droves  of  horses  covering 
the  hills  and  plains.  It  was,  he  declares,  a  wild 
and  bustling  scene.  The  hunting  parties  of  white 
men  and  red  men,  continually  sallying  forth  and 
returning ;  the  groups  at  the  various  encamp- 
ments, some  cooking,  some  working,  some  amus- 
ing themselves  at  different  games  ;  the  neighing 


138 


BONN  FAILLE'S  ADVENTUliES. 


of  horses,  tlie  braying  of  asses,  the  resounding 
strokes  of  the  axe,  the  sliarp  report  of  the  rifle, 
the  whoop,  the  Iialloo,  and  the  frequent  burst  of 
laughter,  all  in  the  midst  of  a  region  sixhhinly 
roused  from  pericct  silence  and  loneliness  by  this 
transient  hunters'  s  yourn,  realized,  ho  says,  the 
idea  of  a  "populous  solitude." 

The  kind  and  genial  character  of  the  captain 
had,  evidently,  its  influence  on  the  opposite  races 
thus  fortuitously  congregated  together.  The 
most  perfect  harmony  prevailed  between  them. 
The  Indians,  he  says,  were  friendly  in  their  dis- 
positions, and  honest  to  the  most  scrupulous  de- 
gree, in  their  intercourse  with  the  wliite  men. 
It  is  true  they  were  somewhat  impoi-tunate  in 
their  curiosity,  and  apt  to  be  continually  in  the 
way,  examining  everything  with  keen  and  pry- 
ing eye,  and  watching  every  movement  of  the 
white  men.  All  this,  however,  was  borne  with 
great  good  humor  by  the  captain,  and  through  his 
example  by  his  men.  Indeed,  throughout  all  his 
transactions,  he  shows  himself  the  friend  of  the 
poor  Indians,  and  his  conduct  towards  them  is 
above  all  praise. 

The  Nez  Perces,  the  Flatheads,  and  the 
Ilanging-ears,  pride  themselves  upon  the  number 
of  their  horses,  of  w/iich  they  possess  more  in 
proportion  than  any  otlicr  of  the  mountain  tribes 
within  the  buffalo  range.  Many  of  the  Indian 
warriors  and  hunters,  encamped  around  Captain 
Boiuieville,  possess  from  thirty  to  forty  horses 
each.  Their  horses  are  stout,  well  built  ponies, 
of    great    wind,    and    capable    of    enduring    the 


of 


NE  \V  A RRA y G E M EN TS. 


13ft 


geverest  hanlsliip  and  futij^ue.  The  swiftest  of 
tlieni,  liowever,  are  those  obtained  from  the 
whitteS,  vvlwle  sufrieieiitly  young  to  become  accli- 
mated and  imucil  to  the  rough  service  of  tlie 
moiuitalns. 

J5y  degrees  the  populousuess  of  this  encamp- 
nuM»t  began  to  produce  its  inctonveniences.  Tlie 
iinmefise  (b'oves  of  liorses  owned  l>y  the  Indiana 
consumed  the  herbage  of  tlie  surrounding  hills  ; 
while,  to  drive  them  to  any  distant  pasturage,  in  a 
neighborhood  abounding  with  lui'king  arid  deadly 
enemies,  would  be  to  endanger  the  loss  both  of 
man  and  beast.  Game,  too,  began  to  grow  scai'ce. 
It  was  soon  hunted  and  fi'ightened  out  of  the 
vicinity,  and  though  the  Indians  made  a  wide 
ciicuit  through  the  mountjiins  in  the  hope  of 
driving  the  buffalo  towards  the  canlomnent,  their 
expedition  was  unsuccessful.  It  was  plain  that 
so  large  a  party  could  not  subsist  themselves 
there,  nor  iti  any  one  place,  throughout  the  win- 
ter. Captain  Bonneville,  therefore,  altered  his 
whole  arrangements.  He  detatched  fifty  men 
towards  the  south  to  winter  upon  Snake  River, 
and  to  trap  about  its  waters  in  the  spring,  with 
orders  t)  rejoin  him  in  t'le  month  of  Jidy,  at 
Horse  Creek,  in  Green  River  Valley,  which  he 
had  fixed  upon  as  the  general  rendezvous  of  his 
company  for  the  ensuing  year. 

Of  all  his  late  party,  he  now  retained  with 
him  merely  a  small  number  of  free  trappers,  with 
U'hom  he  intended  to  sojourn  among  the  Nez 
Perces  and  Flatheads,  and  adopt  the  Indian 
mode    of    moving    with     the    game    and    grass, 


' 


I   ; 


If 


m\ 


140 


BONNEVILLhTS  ADVENTURES, 


Those  bands,  in  eflfcct,  shortly  afterwards  broke 
up  their  encjinipinents  and  set  off  for  a  less 
beaten  neighborhood.  Captain  Bonneville  re- 
mained behind  for  a  few  d{i3'9,  that  lie  nn'ght  se- 
cretly prepare  caches^  in  which  to  deposit  every- 
thing not  required  for  current  use.  Thus  light- 
ened of  iill  superfluous  incumbrance,  he  set  off 
on  the  20th  of  November  to  rejoin  his  Jn<lian 
allies.  He  found  them  encamped  in  a  sec.'uded 
part  of  the  country,  at  the  head  of  a  small 
stream.  Considering  themselves  out  of  all  dan- 
ger, in  this  sequestered  spot,  from  their  old  ene- 
mies, the  Blaekfeet,  their  encampment  manifested 
the  most  negligent  security.  Their  lodges  were 
scattered  in  every  direction,  and  their  horses 
covered  every  hill  for  a  great  distance  round, 
grazing  upon  the  upland  bunch  grass,  which 
grew  in  great  abundance,  and  though  dry,  re- 
tained its  nutritious  properties  instead  of  losing 
them,  like  other  grasses,  in  the  autumn. 

When  the  Nez  Perces,  Flatheads,  and  Pends 
Oreilles  are  encamped  in  a  dangerous  neighbor- 
hood, says  Captain  Bonneville,  the  greatest  care 
is  taken  of  their  horses,  those  prime  articles  of 
Indian  wealthy  and  objects  of  Indian  depredation. 
Each  warrior  has  his  horse  tied  by  one  foot  at 
night  to  a  stake  planted  before  his  lodge.  Here 
they  remain  until  broad  daylight;  by  that  time 
the  young  men  of  the  camp  are  already  ranging 
over  the  surrounding  hills.  Each  family  then 
drives  its  horses  to  some  eligible  spot,  where  they 
are  left  to  graze  unattended.  A  young  Indian 
repairs  occasionally  to  the  pasture  to  give  them 


\\ 


LACK    OF  PRECAUTION. 


141 


time 


wfttcr,  ami  to  Bee  tluit  all  is  well.  So  accustomed 
are  the  horses  to  this  management,  tliat  they 
keep  together  iii  tlie  pasture  where  they  have 
been  left.  As  tlie  sun  sinks  behind  tlie  hills, 
they  may  be  seen  moving  from  all  points  towards 
(he  camp,  where  they  surrender  themselves  to  be 
tii'd  up  for  the  niglit.  Even  in  situations  of  dan- 
ger, the  Indians  rarely  set  guards  over  their 
camp  at  night,  intrusting  that  ofTice  entirely  to 
their  vijjrilant  and  well-trained  dofjs. 

In  an  encampment,  however,  of  such  fancied 
security  as  that  in  which  Captain  IJonnevillo 
found  his  Indian  friends,  much  of  these  precau- 
tions with  respect  to  their  horses  are  omitted 
They  merely  drive  them,  at  nightfall,  to  some  se- 
questered little  dell,  and  leave  them  there,  at  per- 
fect liberty,  until  the  morning. 

One  object  of  Captam  Bonneville  in  wintering 
among  these  Indians,  was  to  procure  a  supply  of 
horses  against  the  spring.  They  were,  however, 
extremely  unwilling  to  part  with  any,  and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  he  purchased,  at  the 
rate  of  twenty  dollaro  each,  a  few  for  the  use  of 
some  of  his  free  trappers,  who  were  on  foot;  and 
dependent  on  him  for  their  equipment. 

In  this  encampment  Captain  Bonneville  re- 
mained from  the  21st  of  November  to  the  9  th  of 
December.  During  this  period  the  thermometer 
ranged  from  thirteen  to  forty-two  degrees.  There 
were  occasional  falls  of  snow  ;  but  it  generally 
melted  away  almost  immediately,  and  the  tender 
blades  of  new  grass  began  to  shoot  up  among 
the  old.  On  the  7th  of  December,  however,  the 
thermometer  tell  to  seven  degrees. 


142 


B ONNE VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


!'! 


ii 


The  render  will  recollect  that,  on  distributing 
his  forces,  when  in  Green  lliver  Valley,  Captain 
Bonneville  had  detached  a  party,  headed  by  a 
leader  of  the  name  of  Matthieu,  with  all  the 
weak  and  disabled  horses,  to  sojourn  about  Bear 
River,  meet  the  Soshonie  bands,  arid  afterwards 
to  rc'join  him  at  his  whiter  camp  on  Salmon 
River. 

More  than  sufficient  time  had  elapKcd,  yet 
Matthieu  failed  to  make  his  appearance,  and  un- 
easiness iiCgan  to  be  felt  on  his  account.  Captain 
Bonneville  sent  out  four  men,  to  range  the  country 
through  whi(;h  he  would  have  to  pass,  and  en- 
deavor to  get  some  information  concerning  him  ; 
for  his  r<)ute  lay  across  the  great  Snake  River 
plain,  which  spreads  itself  out  like  an  Arabian 
desert,  and  on  which  a  cavalcade  could  be  de- 
scried at  a  great  distance.  The  scouts  soon  re- 
tuined,  having  proceeded  no  further  than  the  tdge 
of  the  plaifj,  p  etending  that  their  horses  were 
lame ;  h\\\  it  \v.\s  evident  they  had  feared  to  ven- 
ture, witr;  so  P'Mali  a  force,  into  Ihese  exposed 
and   dangcro  tS   regions. 

A  disease,  vvhich  Captain  Bonneville  supposed 
to  be  pneumonia,  now  appeared  among  the  Jn 
dians,  carrying  off  numbers  of  them,  after  an  ill 
ness  of  three  or  four  days.  The  worthy  captain 
acted  as  physician,  prescribing  profuse  sweatings 
tvi\d  copious  bleedings,  and  uniformly  with  suc- 
cess, if  the  patient  was  subsequently  treated  with 
pro[)er  care.  In  exti-aordinary  cases,  the  poor 
6avag(!S  called  in  the  aid  of  their  own  doctors  or 
conjurors,   who    oiliciated   with    j^reat  noise    and 


PFACE   CONFERENCE  PROPOSED.        143 


'•r. 


!? 


mummery,  but  with  little  benefit.  Those  wjio 
died  during  this  epidemic,  were  buried  in  graves, 
after  tlie  manner  of  the  wliites,  but  witiiout  any 
regard  to  tiie  direction  of  the  head.  It  is  a  fact 
worthy  of  notice,  tiiat,  while  this  malady  made 
such  ravaires  amons;  the  natives,  not  a  siuijle 
white  man  had  the  slightest  symptom  of  it. 

A  familiar  intercourse  of  some  standinir  with 
the  Pierced-nose  and  Flathead  Indians,  had  now 
convinced  Captain  Bonneville  of  their  amicable 
and  inoffensive  character  ;  lie  began  to  take  u 
stroncr  interest  in  them,  and  conceived  the  idea  of 
becoming  a  pacificator,  and  healing  the  deadly 
feud  between  them  and  the  Blackfeet,  in  which 
they  were  so  deplorably  the  sufferers.  He  pro- 
posed the  matter  to  some  of  the  leaders,  and 
urged  that  they  should  meet  the  Blackfeet  chiefs 
in  a  grand  pacific  conference,  offering  to  send  two 
of  his  men  to  the  enemy's  camp  with  pi})e,  tobac- 
co, and  flag  of  truce,  to  negotiate  the  proi)osed 
meeting. 

The  Nez  Perces  and  Flathead  sages,  uj)ou 
this,  held  a  council  of  war,  of  two  days'  duration, 
in  which  there  was  abundance  of  hard  smoking 
and  long  talking,  and  both  eloquence  and  tobacco 
were  nearly  exhausted.  At  length  they  came  to 
a  decision  to  reject  the  worthy  captain's  proposi- 
tion, and  upon  pretty  substantial  grounds,  as  the 
reader  may  judge. 

"  AVar,"  said  the  chiefs,  "  is  a  bloody  business, 
nnd  full  of  evil ;  but  it  keeps  the  eyes  of  the 
chiefs  always  open,  and  makes  the  limbs  of  the 
young   men   strong   and   suj)ple.     In  war,  every 


I   ,  n 


I 


lU 


B ONNE  VILLETS  AD  VENTURES. 


II 


one  IS  on  the  alert.  If  we  see  a  trail,  we  know 
it  must  be  an  enemy  ;  if  the  Blackfeet  come  to 
us,  we  know  it  is  for  war,  and  we  are  ready. 
Peace,  on  the  other  hand,  sounds  no  alarm  ;  the 
eyes  of  the  chiefs  are  closed  m  sleep,  and  the 
young  men  are  sleek  and  lazy.  The  horses  stray 
into  the  mountains  ;  the  women  and  their  little 
babes  go  about  alone.  But  the  heart  of  a  Black- 
foot  is  a  lie,  and  his  tongue  is  a  trap.  If  he  says 
peace,  it  is  to  deceive  ;  he  comes  to  us  as  a 
brother :  he  smokes  his  pipe  with  us  ;  but  when 
he  sees  us  weak,  and  off  our  guard,  he  will  slay 
and  steal.  We  will  have  no  such  peace ;  let 
there  be  war  !  " 

With  this  reasoning,  Captain  Bonneville  was 
fain  to  acquiesce ;  but,  since  the  sagacious  Flat- 
heads  and  their  allies  were  content  to  remain  in  a 
state  of  warfare,  he  wished  them,  at  least,  to  exer- 
cise the  boasted  vigilance  which  war  was  to  pro- 
duce, and  to  keep  their  eyes  open.  He  repre- 
sented to  them  the  impossibility,  that  two  such 
considerable  clans  could  move  about  the  country 
without  leaving  trails  by  which  they  might  be 
traced.  Besides,  among  the  Blackfeet  braves 
wtre  several  Nez  Perce s,  who  had  been  taken 
prisoners  in  early  youth,  adopted  by  their  captors, 
and  trained  up  and  imbued  with  warlike  and  pred- 
atory notions  ;  these  had  lost  all  sympathies  with 
their  native  tribe,  and  would  be  prone  to  lead  the 
enemy  to  their  secret  haunts.  He  exhorted  them, 
therefore,  to  keep  upon  the  alert,  and  never  to 
remit  their  vigilance,  while  within  the  range  of  so 
crafty  and  cruel  a  foe.     All  these  counsels  were 


UlgJ 


lii 


HORSES   CARRIED   OFF. 


145 


lost  upon  his  easy  and  simple-minded  hearers.  A 
careless  indifference  reijjned  throughout  their  en- 
Ciimpments,  and  their  horses  were  permitted  to 
range  the  hills  at  night  in  perfect  freedom.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  had  his  own  horses  brought  in  at 
uight,  and  properly  picketed  and  guarded.  The 
evil  he  apprehended  soon  took  place.  In  a  single 
night,  a  sweep  was  made  through  the  neighboring 
pastures  by  the  Blackfeet,  and  eighty-six  of  the 
tinest  horses  carried  off.  A  whip  and  a  rope 
were  left  in  a  conspicuous  situation  by  the  rob- 
bers, as  a  taunt  to  the  simpletons  they  had  un- 
horsed. 

Long  before  sunrise,  the  news  of  this  calamity 
spread  like  wildfire  through  the  different  encamp- 
ments. Captain  Bonneville,  whose  own  horses 
remained  safe  at  their  pickets,  watched  in  momen- 
tary expectation  of  an  outbreak  of  warriors, 
Pierced-nose  and  Flathead,  in  furious  pursuit  of 
the  marauders ;  but  no  such  thing  —  they  con- 
tented themselves  with  searching  diligently  over 
hill  and  dale,  to  glean  up  such  horses  as  had 
escaped  the  hands  of  the  marauders,  and  then  re- 
signed themselves  to  their  loss  with  the  most 
exemplary  quiescence. 

Some,  it  is  true,  who  were  entirely  unhorsed, 
set  out  oa  a  begging  visit  to  their  cousins,  as  they 
call  them,  the  Lower  Nez  Perces,  who  inhabit 
the  lower  country  about  the  Columbia,  and  pos- 
sess horses  in  abundance.  To  these  they  repair 
when  in  difficult}^  and  seldom  fail,  by  dint  of  beg- 
ging and  bartering,  to  get  themselves  once  more 

mounted  on  horseback. 

IC 


m 


i ' 


146 


B ONNE VILLFTS  A D VEN TUBES, 


f!l 


:%, 


Game  had  now  become  scarce  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  camp,  and  it  was  necessary,  according; 
to  Indian  custom,  to  move  off  to  a  less  beaten 
ground.  Captain  Bonneville  proposed  the  Horse 
Prairie  ;  but  his  Indian  friends  objected,  that 
many  of  the  Nez  Perces  had  gone  to  visit  tlunr 
cousins,  and  that  the  whites  were  few  in  number, 
so  that  their  united  force  was  not  sufficient  to 
venture  on  the  buffalo  grounds,  which  were  in- 
fested by  bands  of  Blackfeet. 

They  now  spoke  of  a  place  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, which  they  represented  as  a  perfect  hun- 
ter's elysium.  It  was  on  the  right  branch,  or 
liead  stream  of  the  river,  locked  up  among  cliffs 
and  precipices,  where  there  was  no  danger  from 
roving  bands,  and  where  the  Blackfeet  dare  not 
enter.  Here,  they  said,  the  elk  abounded,  and 
the  mountain  sheep  were  to  be  seen  trooping 
upon  the  rocks  and  hills.  A  little  distance  be- 
yond it,  also,  herds  of  buffalo  were  to  be  met 
with,  out  of  the  range  of  danger.  Thither  they 
proposed  to  move  their  camp. 

The  proposition  pleased  the  cr.ptain,  who  was 
desirous,  through  the  Indians,  of  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  all  the  secret  places  of  the  land. 
Accordingly,  on  the  9th  of  December,  they  struck 
their  tents,  and  moved  forward  by  short  stages, 
as  many  of  the  Indians  were  yet  feeble  from  the 
late  malady. 

Following  up  the  right  fork  of  the  river,  they 
came  to  where  it  entered  a  deep  gorge  of  the 
mountains,  up  which,  lay  the  secluded  region  so 
much  vaunted  by  the  Indians.     Captain  Bonne- 


MORE  LOSSES, 


147 


fille  lialted,  and  encamped  for  three  days,  before 
tntering  the  gorge.  In  tlie  meantime,  he  de- 
taclied  live  of  his  free  trappers  to  scour  the  liills 
atid  kill  as  many  elk  as  possible,  before  the  main 
body  should  enter,  as  they  would  then  be  soon 
frightened  away  by  the  various  Indian  hunting 
parties. 

While  thus  encamped,  they  were  still  liable  to 
the  marauds  of  the  Blackfeet,  and  Captain  Bonne- 
ville admonished  his  Indian  friends  to  be  upon 
their  guard.  The  Nez  Perces,  however,  notwith- 
staui' I ng  their  recent  loss,  were  still  careless  of 
their  horses ;  merely  driving  them  to  some  se- 
cluded spot,  and  leaving  them  there  for  the 
night,  without  setting  any  guard  upon  them. 
Tiie  conse(iuence  was  a  second  swoop,  in  which 
forty-one  were  carried  off.  This  was  borne  with 
eipial  philosophy  with  the  first,  and  no  effort  was 
made  either  to  recover  the  horses,  or  to  take  ven- 
geance on  the  thieves. 

The  Ne/  Perces,  however,  grew  more  cautious 
with  res[)ect  *o  their  remaining  horses,  driving 
them  regularly  to  the  camp  every  evening,  and 
fastening  them  to  pickets.  Captain  Bonneville, 
however,  told  them  that  this  was  not  enough.  It 
was  evident  that  they  were  dogged  by  a  daring 
and  persevering  enemy,  who  was  encouraged  by 
past  impunity  ;  they  should,  therefore,  take  more 
than  usual  preciiutions,  and  post  a  guard  at  night 
over  their  cavalry.  They  could  not,  however,  be 
persuaded  to  depart  from  their  usual  custom. 
The  horse  once  picketed,  the  care  of  the  owner 
»7as  over  for  the  night,  and  he  slept  profoundly 


l\ 


ii  1 


1 1 


m 


148 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


3\ 


None  waked  in  the  camp  but  the  gamblers,  who, 
absorbed  in  their  play,  were  more  difficult  to  be 
roused  to  external  circumstances  than  even  the 
sleepers. 

The  Blackfeet  are  bold  enemies,  and  fond  of 
hazardous  exploits.  I'he  band  that  were  hover- 
ing about  the  neighborhood,  finding  they  had 
such  pacific  people  to  deal  with,  redoubled  their 
daring.  The  horses  being  now  picketed  before 
the  lodges,  a  number  of  Blackfeet  scouts  pene- 
trated in  the  eaHy  part  of  the  night  into  the  very 
centre  of  the  camp.  Here  they  went  about 
among  the  lodges,  as  calmly  and  deliberately  as 
if  at  home,  quietly  cutting  loose  the  horses  that 
stood  picketed  by  the  lodges  of  their  sleeping 
owners.  One  of  these  prowlers,  more  adventu- 
rous than  the  rest,  approached  a  fire,  round  which 
a  group  of  Nez  Percys  were  gambling  with  the 
most  intense  eagerness.  Here  he  stood  for  some 
time,  muflled  up  in  his  robe,  peering  over  the 
shoulders  of  the  players,  watching  the  changes  of 
their  countenances  and  the  fluctuations  of  the 
game.  So  completely  engrossed  were  they,  that 
the  presence  of  this  muffled  eaves-dropper  was 
unnoticed,  and  having  executed  his  bravado,  he 
retired  undiscovered. 

Having  cut  loose  as  many  horses  as  they  could 
conveniently  carry  off,  the  Blackfeet  scouts  re- 
joined their  comrades,  and  all  remained  patiently 
round  the  camp.  By  degrees,  the  horses,  finding 
themselves  at  liberty,  took  their  route  towards 
their  customary  gazing  ground.  As  they  emerged 
from  the  camp,  they  were  silently  taken  jyosses- 


THE  CAPTAIN  SPEAKS  FOR    WAR.      14S 

siou  of,  until,  having  secured  about  thirty,  the 
Blackfeet  sprang  on  their  backs  and  scampered 
off.  The  chitter  of  hoofs  startled  the  gam- 
blers from  their  game.  They  gave  the  alarm, 
which  soon  roused  the  sleepers  from  every  lodge. 
Still  all  was  quiescent ;  no  marshalling  of  forces, 
no  saddling  of  steed  and  dashing  off  in  pursuit, 
no  lalk  of  retribution  for  their  repeated  outrages. 
The  patience  of  Captain  Bonneville  was  at  length 
exhausted.  He  had  played  the  part  of  a  pacifi- 
cator without  success  ;  he  now  altered  his  tone, 
and  resolved,  if  possible,  to  rouse  their  war  spirit. 

Accordingly,  convoking  their  cliiefs,  he  in- 
veighed against  their  craven  policy,  and  urged 
the  necessity  of  vigorous  and  retributive  meas- 
ures, that  would  check  the  confidence  and  pre- 
sumption of  theu'  enemies,  if  not  inspire  them 
with  awe.  For  this  purpose,  he  advised  that  a 
war  party  should  be  immediately  sent  off  on  the 
trail  of  the  marauders,  to  follow  them,  if  neces- 
sary, into  the  very  heart  of  the  Blackfoot  coun- 
try, and  not  to  leave  them  until  they  had  taken 
signal  vengeance.  Beside  this,  he  recommended 
ilie  organization  of  minor  war  parties,  to  make 
reprisals  to  the  extent  of  the  losses  sustained. 
'*  Unless  you  rouse  yourselves  from  your  apathy,'* 
said  he,  "  and  strike  some  bold  and  decisive  blow, 
you  will  cease  to  be  considered  men,  or  objects 
of  manly  warfare.  The  very  squaws  and  chil- 
ilren  of  the  Blackfeet  will  be  sent  against  you, 
w}n\G  their  warriors  reserve  themselves  for  nobler 
antagonists." 

This   harangue   had   evidently   a  meoientory 


«i 


I.,  1 


i'  \ 


1 1  ■  ■  ■■Ml  "* 


150 


B  ONNE  VILLE^S  AD  VENTURES, 


m-  > 


effect  upon  the  pride  of  the  hearers.  After  a 
short  pause,  however,  one  of  the  orators  arose. 
It  was  bad,  he  said,  to  go  to  war  for  mere  re- 
venge. The  Great  Spirit  had  given  them  a  heart 
for  peace,  not  for  war.  They  had  lost  horses,  it 
was  true,  but  they  could  easily  get  others  from 
their  cousins,  the  Lower  Nez  Perots,  without  in- 
curring any  risk ;  whereas,  in  war  they  should 
lose  men,  who  were  not  so  readily  replaced.  As 
to  their  late  losses,  an  increased  watchfulness 
would  prevent  any  more  misfortunes  of  the  kind. 
He  disapproved,  therefore,  of  all  hostile  measures ; 
and  all  the  other  chiefs  concurred  in  his  opinion. 

Captain  Bonneville  again  took  up  the  point. 
"  It  is  true,"  said  he,  "  the  Great  Spirit  has  given 
you  a  heart  to  love  your  friends ;  but  he  has  also 
given  you  an  arm  to  strike  your  enemies.  Un- 
less you  do  something  speedily  to  put  an  end  to 
this  continual  plundering,  I  must  say  farewell. 
As  yet,  I  have  sustained  no  loss ;  thanks  to  the 
precautions  which  you  have  slighted :  but  my 
property  is  too  unsafe  here  ;  my  turn  will  come 
next ;  I  and  my  people  will  share  the  contempt 
you  are  bringing  upon  yourselves,  and  will  be 
thought,  like  you,  poor-spirited  beings,  who  may 
at  any  time  be  plundered  with  impunity." 

The  conference  broke  up  with  some  signs  of 
excitement  on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Early 
the  next  morning,  a  party  of  thirty  men  set  off 
in  pursuit  of  the  foe,  and  Captain  Bonneville 
hoped  to  hear  a  good  account  of  the  Blackfeet 
marauders.  To  his  disappointment,  the  war  party 
came  lagging  back  on  the  following  day,  leading 


s  of 
iarly 

otf 
Iville 
:feet 
[arty 

ling 


WOUNDED  PRIDE  SATISFIED, 


151 


*    f 


a  few  old,  sorry,  broken-down  horses,  which  the 
freebooters  had  not  been  able  to  urge  to  sutficient 
speed.  The  effort  exhausted  the  martial  spirit, 
and  satisfied  the  wounded  pride  of  the  Nez  Perc6e, 
and  they  relapsed  into  their  usual  state  of  passive 
indifference. 


\  i 


H 


;  - 


ii 


<    : 


i1 


-I 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


ii»  •• 


STORY  OF  KOSATO,  THE  RENEGADE  BLACKFOOT. 

II F  t'.ie  meekness  and  long-suffering  of  the 
I  Pierced-noses  grieved  the  spirit  of  Cap- 
tain lionneville,  there  was  another 
individual  in  the  camp,  to  whom  they  were  still 
more  annoying.  This  was  a  Blackfoot  renegado, 
named  Kosato,  a  fiery,  hot-blooded  youth,  who, 
with  a  beautiful  girl  of  the  same  tribe,  had  taken 
refuge  among  the  Nez  Perces.  Though  adopted 
into  the  tribe,  he  still  retained  the  warlike  spirit 
of  his  race,  and  loathed  the  peaceful,  inoffensive 
habits  of  those  around  him.  The  hunting  of  the 
deer,  the  elk,  and  the  buffalo,  which  was  the 
height  of  their  ambition,  was  too  tame  to  satisfy 
his  wild  and  restless  nature.  His  heart  burned 
for  the  foray,  the  ambush,  the  skirmish,  the 
scamper,  and  all  the  haps  and  hazards  of  roving 
and  predatory  warfare. 

The  recent  hoverings  of  the  Blackfeet  about 
the  camp,  and  their  nightly  prowls,  and  daring 
and  successful  marauds  had  kept  him  in  a  fever 
and  a  flutter;  like  a  hawk  in  a  cage,  who  hears 
his  late  companions  swooping  and  screaming  in 
wild  liberty  above  him.  The  attempt  of  Captain 
Bonneville  to  rouse  the  war  spirit  of  the  Nez 
Perces,  and  prompt  them  to  retaliation,  was  ar- 


K  OS  A  TO,   TUE  RENEGADE. 


155 


dently  sccondtKl  by  Kosato.  For  several  days  lie 
was  incessantly  (levisit:g  schemes  of  vengeance, 
and  endeavoring  to  set  on  foot  an  expedition 
tliat  should  carry  dismay  and  desolation  into  the 
Black  feet  towns.  All  his  art  was  exerted  to 
touch  upon  those  sprin^o  of  human  action  with 
which  he  was  most  familiar.  He  drew  the 
listening  Sfivages  round  him  by  his  nervous 
eloquence ;  taunted  them  with  recitals  of  past 
wrongs  and  insults  ;  drew  glowing  pictures  of 
triumphs  and  trophies  within  their  reach ;  re- 
counted tales  of  daring  and  romantic  enterprise, 
of  secret  marchings,  covert  lurking?,  midnight 
sm'prisals,  sackings,  burnings,  plunderings,  scalp- 
ings  ;  together  with  the  triumphant  return,  and 
the  feasting  and  rejoicing  of  the  victors.  These 
wild  tales  were  intermingled  with  the  beating  of 
the  drum,  the  yell,  the  war-whoop  and  the  war- 
dance,  so  inspiring  to  Indian  valor.  All,  how- 
ever, were  lost  upon  the  peaceful  spirits  of  his 
hearers  ;  not  a  Nez  Perces  was  to  be  roused  to 
vengeance,  or  stimulated  to  glorious  war.  In 
the  bitterness  of  his  heart,  the  Blackfoot  rene- 
gado  repined  at  the  mishap  which  had  severed 
liini  from  a  race  of  congenial  spirits,  and  driven 
him  to  take  refuge  among  beings  so  destitute  of 
martial   fire. 

The  character  and  conduct  of  this  man  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  Captain  Bonneville,  and 
he  was  anxious  to  hear  the  reason  why  he  had 
deserted  his  tribe,  and  why  he  looked  back  upon 
♦hem  with  such  deadly  hostility.  Kosato  told 
him  his  own  story   briefly ;  —  it  gives  a  picture 


I    IIP 


i!^ 


1 1     I 

\\\ 


*  \ 


154 


BOiVNEVJLLE'S  ADVENTURF.B. 


■! 


i 


i 


ill 


of  the  deep,  stroii":  passions  that  work  in  the 
bosoms  of  these  miscalled  stoics. 

"You  see  my  wife,"  said  he:  "she  is  good; 
she  is  beautiful —  1  love  her.  Yet,  she  has  been 
the  cause  of  all  mv  troubles.  She  was  the  wife 
of  my  chief.  I  loved  her  more  than  he  did ; 
and  she  knew  it.  We  talked  together ;  we 
laughed  together ;  we  were  always  seeking  euch 
otiier's  society  ;  but  we  were  as  innocent  as  chil- 
dren. The  chief  grew  jealous,  and  conunanded 
her  to  speak  with  me  no  more.  His  heart  be- 
came hard  towards  her;  his  jealousy  grew  more 
furious.  lie  beat  her  without  cause  and  without 
mercy  ;  and  threatened  to  kill  her  outright,  if  she 
even  looked  at  me.  Do  you  want  traces  of  his 
fur^'  ?  Look  at  that  scar  !  His  rage  against  me 
was  no  less  persecuting.  War  parties  of  the 
Crows  were  hovering  round  us  ;  our  young  men 
had  seen  their  trail.  All  hearts  were  roused  for 
action  ;  my  horses  were  before  my  lodge.  Sud- 
denly the  chief  came,  took  them  to  his  own 
pickets,  and  called  them  his  own.  What  could  I 
do  ?  —  he  was  a  chief.  I  dur.«<^  not  speak,  but 
my  heart  was  burning.  I  jomed  no  longer  in 
the  council,  the  hunt,  or  the  war-feast.  What 
had  I  to  do  there  ?  an  unhorsed,  degraded  war- 
rior. I  kept  by  myself,  and  thought  of  nothing 
but  these  wrongs  and  outrages. 

"  I  was  sitting  one  evening  upon  a  knoll  that 
overlooked  the  meadow  where  the  horses  were 
pastured.  I  saw  the  horses  that  were  once  mine 
grazing  among  those  of  the  chief.  This  mad- 
dened me,  and  I  sat  brooding  for  a  time  over  the 


..^Tsr. 


STORY  OF  KOSATO. 


155 


injuries  I  had  suffered,  and  the  cruelties  which 
ehe  I  h)ved  had  endured  for  my  sake,  until  my 
heart  swelled  and  jrrew  sore,  and  my  teeth  wvse 
clinched.  As  I  looked  down  upon  the  meadow, 
I  saw  the  chief  walking  amon;:!^  his  horses.  I 
fastened  my  eyes  on  him  as  a  hawk's ;  my  blood 
boiled  ;  I  drew  my  breath  hard.  He  went 
atnong  the  willows.  In  an  instant  I  was  on  my 
feet ;  my  hand  was  on  my  knife  —  I   flew  rather 


than     ran  —  before    he    was     aware,    I 


sprang 


upon  him,  and  with  two  blows  laid  him  dead  at 
my  feet.  I  covered  his  body  with  earth,  and 
strewed  bushes  over  the  place  ;  then  hastened  to 
her  I  loved,  told  her  what  I  had  done,  and  urged 
her  to  fly  with  me.  She  only  answered  me  with 
tears.  I  reminded  her  of  the  wrongs  I  had  suf- 
fered, and  of  the  blows  and  stripes  she  had  en- 
dured from  the  deceased  ;  I  had  done  nothing  but 
an  act  of  justice.  I  again  urged  her  to  fly ;  but 
she  only  wept  the  more,  and  bade  me  go.  My 
heart  was  heavy,  but  my  eyes  were  dry.  I 
folded  my  arms.  *  'Tis  well,'  said  I,  '  Kosato 
will  go  alone  to  the  desert.  None  will  be  with 
him  but  the  wiid  beasts  of  the  desert.  The 
ftcskers  of  blood  may  follow  on  his  trail.  They 
may  come  upon  him  when  he  sleeps,  and  glut 
their  revenge  ;  but  you  will  be  safe.  Kosato 
will  go  alone.' 

"  I  turned  awfiy.  She  sprang  after  me,  and 
strained  me  in  her  arms.  *  No,'  cried  she,  *  Ko- 
Bato  shall  not  go  alone !  Wherever  he  goes  I 
will  go  —  he  shall  never  part  from  me.* " 

'*  We  hastily  took  in  our  hands  such  things  ai 


':il 


156 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


lit . 


we  most  needed,  and  stealing  quietly  from  tha 
village,  mounted  the  first  horses  we  encountered. 
Speeding  day  and  night,  we  soon  reached  this 
tribe.  They  received  us  with  welcorne,  and  we 
have  dwelt  with  them  in  peace.  They  are  good 
and  kind  ;  they  are  honest ;  but  their  hearts  are 
the  hearts  of  women." 

Such  was  the  story  of  Kosato,  as  related  by 
In'm  to  Captain  Bomieville.  It  is  of  a  kind  that 
often  occurs  in  Indian  life ;  where  love  elope- 
ments fiom  tribe  to  tribe  are  as  frequent  as 
among  the  novel-i'ead  heroes  and  heroines  of 
sentimental  civilization,  and  often  give  rise  Ij 
bloody  and  lasting  feuds. 


mmn 


Up 


liiHi 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

riie  party  enters  the  mountain  Rorj^e.  —  A  wild  fastness 
among  the  hills.  —  Mountain  mutton. —  Peace  and  plenty. 
—  The  amorous  trapper.  —  A  piebald  wedding.  —  A  free 
trapper's  wife  —  her  gala  equipments.  —  Christmas  in  the 
wilderness. 

N  the  19th  of  December  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  confederate  Indians  raised 
their  camp,  and  entered  the  narrow 
/j:;()ige  made  by  the  north  fork  of  Salmon  River. 
Up  this  lay  the  secure  and  plenteous  hunting 
region  so  temptingly  described  b;'  the  Indians. 

Since  leaving  Green  River  the  plains  had  in- 
variably been  of  loose  sand  or  coarse  gravel, 
and  the  rocky  formation  of  the  mountains  of 
primitive  limestone.  The  rivers,  in  general, 
were  skirled  with  willows  and  bitter  cotton-wood 
trees,  and  the  prairies  covered  with  wormwood. 
In  the  hollow  breast  of  the  mountains  which  they 
were  now  penetrating,  the  surrounding  heights 
were  clothed  with  pine  ;  while  the  declivities  of 
the  lower  hills  afforded  abundance  of  bunch  grass 
for  the  horses. 

As  the  Indians  had  represented,  they  were 
now  in  a  natural  fastness  of  the  mountains,  the 
ingress  and  egress  of  which  was  by  a  deep  gorge, 
^  narrow,  rugged,    and    dilficidt,  as  to   prevent 


I 


158 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Becret  approach  or  rapid  retreat,  and  to  admit  of 
easy    defense.     Tlie     Bluekfeet,     therefore,     re 
frained  from  venturing  in  after  the  Nez  Perce*. 
awaiting  a  better  chance,  when  they  should  once 
more  emerge  into  the  open  country. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  found  that  the  In- 
dians had  not  exaggerated  the  advantages  of  this 
region.  Besides  numerous  gangs  of  elk,  large 
flocks  of  the  ahsahta  or  bighorn,  the  mountain 
sheep,  were  to  be  seen  bounding  among  the  pre- 
cipices. These  simple  animals  were  easily  cir- 
cumvented and  destroyed.  A  few  hunters  may 
sun'ound  a  flock  and  kill  as  many  as  they  please. 
Numbers  were  daily  brought  into  camp,  and  the 
flesh  of  those  which  were  young  and  fat,  was 
extolled  as  superior  to  the  finest  mutton. 

Here,  then,  there  was  a  cessation  from  toil, 
from  hun<rer,  and  alarm.  Past  ills  and  dangers 
were  forgotten.  The  hunt,  the  game,  the  song, 
the  story,  the  rough  though  good-humored  joke, 
made  time  pass  joyously  away,  and  plenty  and 
security  reigned  throughout  the  camp. 

Idleness  and  ease,  it  is  said,  lead  to  love,  and 
love  to  matrimony,  in  civilized  life,  and  the  same 
I  rocess  takes  place  in  the  wilderness.  Filled 
with  good  cheer  and  mountain  mutton,  one  of  tlie 
free  trappers  began  to  repine  at  the  solitude  of 
his  lodge,  and  to  experience  the  force  of  that 
great  law  of  nature,  "  It  is  not  meet  for  man  to 
live  alone." 

After  a  night  of  grave  cogitation,  he  repaired 
to    Kowsoter,    the    Pierced-nose    chief;  and  un 
folded  to  him  the  secret  workings  of  his  bosom. 


MATRIMOSr. 


159 


"I  want,"  said  he,  "a  wife.  Give  me  one 
from  amoiif;^  your  tribe.  Not  a  young,  giddy- 
pated  girl,  tliat  will  think  of  nothing  but  flaunting 
and  finery,  but  a  sober,  discreet,  hard-working 
squaw  ;  one  that  will  sliare  my  lot  without  flinch- 
ing, however  hard  it  may  be ;  that  can  take  care 
of  my  lodge  and  be  a  companion  and  a  helpmate 
to  me  in  the  wilderness."  Kowsoter  promised  to 
look  round  among  the  females  of  his  tribe,  and 
procure  such  a  one  as  he  desired.  Two  days 
were  requisite  for  the  search.  At  the  expiration 
of  these,  Kowsoter  called  at  his  lodge  and  in- 
formed him  that  he  would  bring  his  bride  to  him 
in  the  course  of  the  afternoon.  He  kept  his  word. 
At  the  appointed  time  he  approached,  leading  the 
bride,  a  comely  copper-colored  dame,  attired  in 
her  Indian  finery.  Her  father,  mother,  brothers 
by  the  half  dozen,  and  cousins  by  the  score,  all 
followed  on  to  grace  the  ceremony,  and  greet  the 
new  and  important  relative. 

The  trapper  received  his  new  and  numerouii 
family  comiection  with  proper  solemnity ;  he 
placed  his  bride  beside  him,  and,  filling  the  pipe, 
the  great  symbol  of  peace,  with  his  best  tobacco, 
took  two  or  three  whiffs,  then  handed  it  to  tlie 
chief,  who  transfen-ed  it  to  the  father  of  the 
bride,  from  whom  it  was  passed  on  from  lumd  to 
liand  and  mouth  to  mouth  of  the  whole  circle  of 
kinsmen  round  the  fire,  all  maintaining  the  most 
profound  and   becoming  silence. 

After  several   pipes  had  been  filled  and  emp- 
tied   in    this    solenm    ceremonial,    the  chief  ad 
dressed    the    bride ;    detailing,    at    considerable 


I 


i    I 


,  I 


160 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


i . 


I  ii 


length,  the  duties  of  a  wife  ;  which,  among  In- 
dians, are  little  less  onerous  than  tiiose  of  the 
pack-horse  ;  this  done,  he  turned  to  her  friends, 
and  congratulated  them  upon  the  great  alliance 
she  had  made.  They  showed  a  due  sense  of 
their  good  fortune,  especially  when  the  nuptial 
preoents  came  to  he  distributed  among  the  chiefs 
and  relatives,  amounting  co  about  one  hundred 
and  eighty  dollars.  The  company  soon  retired, 
and  now  the  worthy  trapper  found,  indeed,  that 
he  had  no  green  girl  to  deal  with  ;  for  the  know- 
ing dame  at  once  assumed  the  style  and  dignity 
of  a  trapper's  wife,  taking  possession  of  the  lodge 
as  her  undisputed  empire;  arranging  everything 
according  to  her  own  taste  and  habitudes ;  and 
appearing  as  much  at  home,  and  on  as  easy  terms 
with  the  trapper,  as  if  they  had  been  man  and 
wife  for  years. 

We  have  already  given  a  picture  of  a  free 
trapper  and  his  horse,  as  furnished  by  Captain 
Boinieville :  we  shall  here  subjoin,  as  a  com- 
panion picture,  his  description  of  a  free  trapper's 
wife,  that  the  reader  may  luive  a  correct  idea  of 
the  kind  of  blessing  the  worthy  hunter  in  ques- 
tion hjid  invoked  to  solace  him  in  the  wilderness. 

"  The  free  trapper,  while  a  bachelor,  has  no 
greater  pet  than  his  horse  ;  but  the  moment  he 
takes  a  wife  (a  sort  of  brevet  rank  in  matrimony 
occasionally  bestowed  upon  some  Indian  fair  one, 
like  the  heroes  of  ancient  chivalry,  in  the  open 
field),  he  discovers  that  he  has  a  still  more  fan- 
ciful and  capricious  animal  on  which  to  lavish 
his  expenses. 


ihh 


free 
itaiii 
com- 
»per's 
III  of 
ques- 
•ntiss. 

■18    110 

it  he 
nony 

one, 
open 

faii- 
ivisli 


A  FREE   TRAPPER'S   WIFE, 


161 


"  No  sooner  does  an  Indian  belle  experience 
this  promotion,  than  all  her  notions  at  once  rise 
and  expand  to  the  dignity  of  her  situation ;  and 
the  purse  of  her  lover,  and  his  credit  into  the 
bargain,  are  tasked  to  the  utmost  to  lit  her  out 
in  becoming  style.  The  wife  of  a  free  trapper 
to  be  equipped  and  arrayed  like  any  ordinary  and 
undistinguished  squaw?  Perish  the  groveling 
tliought !  In  the  first  place,  she  must  have  a 
horse  for  her  own  riding ;  but  no  jaded,  sorry, 
earth-spirited  hack ;  such  as  is  sometimes  as- 
signed by  an  Indian  husband  for  the  transpor- 
tation of  his  squaw  and  h,:r  pappooses  :  the  wife 
of  a  free  trapper  must  have  the  most  beautiful 
animal  she  can  lay  her  eyes  on.  And  then,  as 
to  his  decoration  :  headstall,  breast-bands,  sadd. 
and  <*''upper  are  lavishly  embroidered  with  beads, 
and  hung  with  thimbles,  hawks*  bells  and 
bunches  of  ribands.  From  each  side  of  the 
saddle  hangs  an  esquimooty  a  sort  of  pocket,  in 
which  she  bestows  the  residue  of  her  trinkets 
and  knick-knacks,  which  cannot  be  crowded  on 
the  decoration  of  her  horse  or  herself.  Over  this 
she  folds,  with  great  care,  a  drapery  of  scarlet 
and  bright-colored  calicoes,  and  now  considers 
the  caparison  of  her  steed  complete. 

"  As  to  her  own  person,  she  is  even  still  more 
extravagant.  Her  hair,  esteemed  beautiful  in 
proportion  to  its  length,  is  carefully  plaited,  and 
made  to  fall  with  seeming  negligence  over  either 
breast.  Her  riding  hat  is  stuck  full  of  party- 
colored  feathers ;  her  robe,  fashioned    somewhat 

after  that   of   the  whites,  is  of  red,  green,  and 

U 


M 


•i: 


I 


V 


162 


BONNEVILLE'S  AD  VESTURES 


Bometimes  gray  cloth,  but  always  of  the  fiuest 
texture  that  can  be  procured.  Her  leggins  and 
moccasons  are  of  the  most  beautiful  and  expen- 
sive workmanship,  and  fitted  neatly  to  the  foot 
and  ankle,  which  with  the  Indian  women  are 
generally  well  formed  and  delicate.  Then  as  to 
jewelry  :  in  the  way  of  fujger-rings,  ear-riiigs, 
necklaces,  and  other  female  glories,  nothing 
within  reach  of  the  trapper's  means  is  omit- 
ted, tiiat  can  tend  to  impress  the  beholder  with 
an  idea  of  the  lady's  high  estate.  To  finish  the 
wiiole,  she  selects  from  among  her  blankets  of 
various  dyes,  one  of  some  glowing  color,  and 
throwing  it  over  her  shoulders  with  a  native 
grace,  vaults  into  the  saddle  of  her  gay,  prancing 
steed,  and  is  ready  to  follow  her  mountaineer  '  to 
the  last  gasp  with  love  and  loyalty.' " 

Such  is  the  general  picture  of  the  ^roc  trap- 
per's wife,  given  by  Captain  Bonneville  ;  how 
far  it  applied  in  its  details  to  the  one  in  question, 
does  not  altogether  appear,  though  it  would  seem 
from  the  outset  of  her  connubial  career,  that  siic 
was  ready  to  avail  herself  of  all  tiie  pomp  and 
circumstance  of  her  new  condition.  It  is  worthy 
of  mention,  that  wherever  tliere  are  several 
wives  of  free  trappers  in  a  camp,  the  keenest  ri- 
valry exists  between  them,  to  the  sore  detriment 
of  their  husbands'  purses.  Their  whole  time  is 
expended,  and  their  ingenuity  tasked  by  endeav- 
ors to  eclipse  each  other  in  dress  and  decoration. 
Tiie  jealousies  and  heart-burnings  thus  occa- 
Bioned  among  these,  so  styled,  cluhlren  of  nature, 
are  equally  intense  with  those  of  the  rival  lead- 


:(l  !i  ' 


CUR  IS  TMA  S  FES  TI VI  TIES, 


1C3 


to 


ers  of  style  aiul  fashion  in  the  luxurious  abodes 
of  civilized  life. 

The  genial  festival  of  Christmas,  which  through- 
out all  Christendom  lights  up  the  fireside  of 
home  with  mirth  and  jollity,  followed  hard  upon 
the  wedding  just  described.  Though  far  fioin 
kindred  and  friends.  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
handful  of  free  trappers  were  not  disposed  to 
KulFer  the  festival  to  pass  iinenjoyed ;  they  were 
in  a  region  of  good  cheer,  and  were  disposed  to 
be  joyous ;  so  it  was  determined  to  ""  light  up  tho 
yule  clog,"  and  celebrate  a  merry  Christmas  in 
the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

On  Christmas  eve,  accordingly,  they  began 
their  rude  fetes  and  rejoicings.  In  the  course 
of  the  night  the  free  trappers  surrounded  tho 
lodije  of  the  Pierced-nose  chief,  and  in  lieu  of 
Christmas  carols,  saluted  him  with  a  feu  de  joie. 

Kowsoter  received  it  in  a  truly  Christian  spirit, 
and  after  a  speech,  in  which  he  expressed  his  high 
j,n-atincation  at  the  honor  done  him,  invited  the 
whole  company  to  a  feast  on  the  following  day. 
His  invitation  was  gladly  accepted.  A  Christ- 
mas dinner  in  the  wi^jwam  of  an  Indian  chief! 
There  was  noveltv  in  the  idea.  Not  one  failed 
to  be  present.  The  bancpiet  was  served  up  in 
primitive  style:  skins  of  various  kinds,  nicely 
dressed  for  the  occasion,  were  si)read  upon  the 
ground ;  upon  these  were  heai)ed  up  abundance 
of  venison,  elk  meat,  and  mountain  mutton  ;  with 
various  bitter  roots,  which  the  Indians  use  as  con- 
diments. 

After  a  short  prayer,  the  company  all  seated 


I 


!t 


t 


t  ; 


'1^ 


'^;S^^'^-n  ■  ^■■&. 


104 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


themselves  cross-legged,  in  Turkish  fashion,  to 
the  banquet,  wliich  passed  oft'  with  great  hilarity. 
After  which  various  games  of  strengtli  and  agility 
by  both  white  men  and  Indians,  closed  the  Christ* 
mas  festivities. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

A  hunt  after  hunters.  —  Hnnfjry  times.  —  A  voracious  repa.st. 

—  Wintry  weatlier.  —  Godin's  Hiver.  —  Splendifl  winter 
scene  on  the  great  lava  plain  of  Snake  Kiver.  —  Severe 
travelling  and  tramping  in  tiie  snow. —  Maneuvers  of  a 
solitary  Indian  horseman.  —  Encampment  on  Snake  River. 

—  Banneck  Indians.  —  The  horse  chief —  his  c'^'rmed  life. 

HE  continued  absence  of  Mi^'tliifu  and 
his  party  had,  by  this  time,  caused  great 
uneasiness  in  the  mind  of  Capta'  i  Bonne- 
ville ;  and,  finding  there  was  no  depc  dence  to  be 
placed  upon  the  perseverance  and  courage  of  scout- 
ing parties,  in  so  perilous  a  quest,  he  determined 
to  set  out  himself  on  the  search,  and  to  keep  on 
until  he  should  ascertain  something  of  the  object 
of  his  solicitude. 

Accordingly,  on  the  26th  December,  he  left 
the  camp,  accompanied  by  thirteen  stark  trappers 
and  hunters,  all  well  mounted  and  armed  for  dan- 
gerous enterprise.  On  the  following  morning 
they  passed  out  at  the  head  of  the  mountain 
gorge,  and  sallied  forth  into  the  open  plain.  As 
they  confidently  expected  a  brush  with  the  Black- 
feet,  or  some  other  predatory  horde,  they  moved 
with  great  circumspection,  and  kept  vigilant  watch 
in  their  encampments. 

In  the  c/)urse  of  another   day  tliey  left  the 


I   : 


J 


I 


t 


0i 


i|!iii^|r 


166 


Z?  ONNE  villi: 3  AD  VENTURE'S 


main  branch  of  Salmon  River,  and  proceeiled 
Bouth  towards  a  puss  called  John  Day's  Defile. 
It  was  severe  and  arduous  travelling.  The  plains 
were  swept  by  keen  and  bitter  blasts  of  wintry 
wind ;  the  ground  was  generally  covered  with 
5now,  game  was  scarce,  so  that  hunger  generally 
prevailed  in  the  camp,  while  the  want  of  pastur- 
age soon  began  to  manifest  itself  m  the  declining 
vigor  of  the  horses. 

The  par^y  had  scarcely  encamped  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  28tli,  when  two  of  the  hunters  who 
had  sallied  forth  in  quest  of  game  came  galloping 
back  ui  great  alarm.  While  hunting  they  had 
perceived  a  party  of  savages,  evidently  maneuver- 
ing to  cut  them  off  from  the  camp ;  and  nothing 
had  saved  them  from  being  entrapped  but  the 
speed  of  their  horses. 

These  tidings  struck  dismay  into  the  camp. 
Captain  Bonneville  endeavored  to  reassure  his 
men  by  representing  the  position  of  their  encamp- 
ment, and  its  capability  of  defense.  lie  then 
ordered  the  horses  to  be  driven  in  and  picketed, 
and  threw  up  a  rough  breastwork  of  fallen  trunks 
of  trees,  and  the  vegetable  rubbish  of  the  wilder- 
ness. Within  this  barrier  was  maintained  a  vigi- 
lant watch  throughout  the  night,  which  passed 
away  without  alarm.  At  early  dawn  they  scru- 
tinized the  surrounding  plain,  to  discover  whether 
any  enemies  had  been  lurking  about  during  the 
night :  not  a  foot-print,  however,  was  to  be  dis- 
covered in  the  coarse  gravel  with  which  the  plain 
was  covered. 

Hunger  now  began  to  cause  more  uneasiness 


.4    VORACIOUS  REPAST. 


167 


than  the  apprehensions  of  surrounding  enemies. 
After  marching  a  few  miles  they  encamped  at  the 
foot  of  a  mountain,  in  hopes  of  finding  huffalo. 
It  was  not  until  the  next  dav  that  they  discovered 
a  pair  of  fine  bulls  on  the  edge  of  the  plain,  among 
rocks  and  ravines.  Havinj;  now  been  two  davs 
and  a  half  without  a  mouthful  of  food,  they  took 
especial  care  that  these  animals  should  not  escape 
them.  AVhile  some  of  the  surest  marksmen  ad- 
vanced ciiutiously  with  their  rifles  into  the  rough 
ground,  four  of  the  best  mounted  horsemen  took 
their  stations  in  the  plain,  to  run  the  bulls  down 
should  they  only  be  maimed. 

The  buffalo  were  wounded,  and  set  off  in  head- 
lon<jj  ilhrht.  The  half-famished  horses  were  too 
weak  to  overtake  them  on  the  frozen  ground,  but 
succeeded  in  driving  them  on  the  ice,  where  they 
sli[)pe(l  and  fell,  and  were  easily  dispatched.  The 
hunters  loaded  themselves  with  beef  for  present 
and  future  supply,  and  then  returned  and  en- 
camped at  the  last  night's  fire.  Here  they  passed 
the  remainder  of  the  dav,  cookin;;  and  eating  with 
a  voracity  proportioned  to  previous  starvation  ; 
forgettuig  in  the  hearty  revel  of  the  moment,  the 
certain  dangers  with  which  they  were  environed. 

The  cravings  of  hunger  being  satisfied,  they 
now  began  to  debate  about  their  furtlier  progress. 
The  men  were  much  disheartened  by  the  hard- 
ships they  had  already  endured.  Indeed,  two 
who  had  been  in  the  rear  guard,  taking  advan- 
tage of  their  position,  had  deserted  and  returned 
to  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perc(js.  The  prospect 
nhead  was  enough  to  staof^rer  the  stoutest  heart 

O  CO 


168 


BONNEVILLE'S   ADVENTURES. 


IM^ 


They  were  in  the  dead  of  winter.  As  far  as  tlia 
eje  could  reach  the  wild  landscape  was  wrapped 
in  snow  ;  which  was  evidently  deepening  as  they 
advanced.  Over  this  they  would  have  to  toil 
with  the  icy  wind  blowing  in  their  faces :  their 
horses  might  give  out  through  want  of  pastur 
age ;  and  they  themselves  must  expect  interval? 
of  horrible  famine  like  that  they  had  already  ex- 
perienced. 

With  Captain  Bonneville,  however,  persever 
ance  was  a  matter  of  pride ;  and  liaving  under- 
taken  this  enterprise,  nothing  could  turn  him 
back  until  it  was  accomplished  :  though  he  de- 
clares that,  had  lie  anticipated  the  diiriculties  and 
sufferings  which  attended  it,  he  should  have 
flinched  from  the  underUiking. 

Onward,  therefore,  the  little  band  urged  their 
way,  keeping  along  the  course  of  a  stream  called 
John  Day's  Creek.  The  cold  was  so  intense  that 
they  had  frequently  to  dismount  and  travel  on 
foot,  lest  they  should  freeze  in  their  saddles. 
The  days,  which,  at  this  season,  are  short  enough 
even  in  the  open  prairies,  were  narrowed  to  a 
few  hours  by  the  high  mountains,  which  allowed 
the  travellers  but  a  brief  enjoyment  of  the  cheer- 
ing rays  of  the  sun.  The  snow  was,  generally, 
at  least  twenty  inchea  in  depth,  and  in  many 
places  much  more  :  those  who  dismounted  had 
to  beat  their  way  with  toilsome  steps.  Eight 
miles  were  considered  a  good  day's  journey.  The 
horses  were  almost  famished  -,  for  tlie  herbage  was 
covered  by  the  deep  snow,  so  that  they  had  noth- 
ing to  subsist  upon  but  scanty  wisps  of  the  dry 


bu 

th( 
an(| 


hm 


m 


A  FREEZING  MARCH, 


169 


mgU 


ier- 

illy, 

my 
Ihad 

I*' 

:iie 

>th- 
Iry 


bunch  grass  which  peered  above  the  surface,  and 
the  small  branches  and  twigs  of  frozen  willows 
and  wormwood. 

In  this  way  they  urged  their  slow  and  painfid 
course  to  the  south  down  John  Day's  Creek,  until 
it  lost  itself  in  a  swamp.  Here  they  encamped 
upon  the  ice  among  stitfened  willows,  where  they 
were  obliged  to  beat  down  and  clear  away  the 
snow  to  procure  pasturage  for  their  horses. 

Hence,  they  toiled  on  to  Godin  River;  so 
ciilled  after  an  Irocjuois  hunter  in  the  service  of 
Sublette,  who  was  murdered  there  by  the  Black- 
feet.  Many  of  the  features  of  this  remote  wil- 
derness are  thus  named  after  scenes  of  violence 
and  bloodshed  that  occurred  to  the  early  pioneers. 
It  was  an  act  of  filial  vengeance  on  the  part  of 
Godin's  son,  Antoine,  that,  as  the  reader  may 
recollect,  brought  on  the  recent  battle  at  Pierre's 
Hole. 

From  Godin's  River,  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  followers  came  out  upon  the  plain  of  the 
Three  Butes  ;  so  called  from  three  singular  and 
isolated  hills  that  rise  from  the  midst.  It  is  a 
part  of  the  great  desert  of  Snake  River,  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  tracts  beyond  the  mountaiiis. 
Could  they  have  experienced  a  respite  from  their 
sufferings  and  anxieties,  the  immense  landscape 
spread  out  before  them  was  calculated  to  inspire 
admiration.  AVinter  has  its  beauties  and  glories, 
as  W'^11  as  summer  ;  and  Captain  Bonneville  had 
the  soul  to  appreciate  them. 

Far  away,  says  he,  over  the  vast  plains,  and 
up   the  steep  sides   of  the  lofty  mountains,   the 


i 


!r 


m 


liM 


170 


B ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VEN TURES. 


n^'  ... 


snow  lay  spread  in  dazzling  whiteness :  and 
whenever  the  sun  emerged  in  the  morning  above 
tlie  giant  peaks,  or  burst  forth  from  among  clouds 
in  his  mid-day  course,  mountain  and  doll,  glazed 
rock  and  frosted  tree,  glowed  and  sparkled  with 
surpassing  lustre.  The  tall  pines  seemed  sprink- 
led with  a  silver  dust,  and  the  willows,  studded 
with  minute  icicles  reflecting  the  prismatic  rays, 
brought  to  mind  the  fairy  trees  conjured  u])  by 
the  cali[)h.'s  story-teller,  to  adorn  his  vale  of 
diamonds. 

The  poor  wanderers,  however,  nearly  starved 
with  hunger  and  cold,  were  in  no  mood  to  enjoy 
the  glories  of  these  brilliant  scenes  ;  though  they 
stamped  pictures  on  their  memory  which  have 
been  recalled  with  delight  in  more  genial  situa- 
tions. 

Encampmg  at  the  west  Bute,  they  found  a 
jilacc  swept  by  the  winds,  so  that  it  was  bare 
of  snow,  and  there  was  abundance  of  bunch 
grass.  Here  the  horses  were  turned  loose  to 
graze  throughout  the  night.  Though  for  once 
they  had  ample  pasturage,  yt'  the  keen  winds 
were  so  intense,  that,  in  the  morning,  a  nude  was 
found  frozen  to  death.  The  tra[)pers  gathered 
round  and  mourned  over  him  as  over  a  cherished 
friend.  They  fjared  their  half-famished  horses 
would  soon  share  his  fate,  for  there  seemed  seance 
blood  enoiiifh  left  in  their  veins  to  withstand  the 
freezing  cold.  To  beat  the  way  further  through 
the  snow  with  these  enfeebled  animals,  seemed 
next  to  impossible  ;  and  despondency  began  to 
crcci)  over  their  hearts,  when,  fortunately,  they 


ii.  i' 


THE  WARY  nORSEMAy. 


171 


discovered  a  trail  made  by  some  hunting  party. 
Into  this  they  immediately  entered,  and  pro- 
ceeded with  less  diihculty.  Shortly  afterward,  a 
fine  buffalo  bull  came  bounding  across  the  snow, 
and  was  instantly  brought  doAvn  by  the  hunters, 
A  fire  was  soon  l)lazin<j  and  cracklinjj,  and  an 
ample  repast  soon  cooked,  and  sooner  dispatche<l, 
after  which  they  made  some  further  progress  and 
then  encjamped.  One  of  the  men  reached  the 
camp  nearly  frozen  to  death ;  but  good  cheer 
and  a  blazing  fire  gradually  restored  life,  and 
put  his  blood  in  circulation. 

Having  now  a  beaten  path,  they  proceeded  the 
next  morning  with  more  facility;  indeed,  the  snow 
decreased  in  depth  as  they  receded  from  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  temperature  became  more  mild.  In 
tiie  course  of  the  day,  they  discovered  a  solitiiry 
horseman  hoverini;  at  a  distance  before  them  en 
the  plain.  They  spurred  on  to  overtake  him ; 
hut  he  was  better  mounted  on  a  freslier  steed,  and 
ko})t  at  a  wary  distance,  reconnoitring  them  with 
evident  distrust ;  for  the  wild  (b'ess  of  the  free 
trappers,  their  leggins,  blankets,  and  cloth  caps 
garnished  with  fur  and  topped  off  WMth  feathers, 
even  their  very  elf-locks  and  weather-bronzed 
complexions,  gave  them  the  look  of  Indians  rather 
than  white  men,  and  made  him  mistake  them  for 
a  war  party  of  some  hostile  tribe. 

After  nuich  maneuvering,  the  wild  horseman  was 
at  length  brought  to  a  parley  ;  but  even  then  he 
conducted  himself  with  the  caution  of  a  knowing 
prowler  of  the  prairies.  Dismounting  from  his 
horse,  and  using  him  as  a  breastwork,  he  levelled 


i  ! 


'Hi 


»»^* 


172 


B  ONNE  villi: S  AD  VENTURES. 


his  gun  across  his  back,  aiul,  thus  prepared  for 
defense  like  a  wury  cruiser  upon  the  liigh  sejis, 
he  permitted  liimself  to  be  approached  within 
speaking  distance. 

He  proved  to  be  an  Indian  of  the  Banneck 
tril>e,  belonging  to  a  band  at  no  great  distance. 
It  was  some  time  before  he  could  be  f)er8uaded 
that  he  was  conversing  with  a  party  of  white  men, 
and  induced  to  lay  aside  his  reserve  and  join  them. 
He  then  jjave  them  the  interestinij  intelli<^encc, 
that  there  were  two  companies  of  white  men  en- 
camped in  the  neighborhood.  This  was  cheering 
news  to  Captain  Bonneville ;  who  hoped  to  find 
in  one  of  them  the  long-sought  party  of  Matthieu. 
Pushing  forward,  therefore,  with  ronovate^l  spirits, 
lie  reached  Snake  River  by  nightfall,  and  there 
fixed  his  encimipment. 

Early  the  next  morning  (13th  January,  1833), 
dilijjent  search  was  made  about  the  neiijhborhood 
for  traces  of  the  reported  parties  of  white  men. 
An  encjimpment  was  soon  discovered,  about  four 
miles  further  up  the  river ;  in  which  Captain  Bon- 
neville, to  liis  great  joy,  found  two  of  IVIatthieu's 
men,  from  whom  he  learnt  that  the  rest  of  his 
party  would  be  there  in  the  course  of  a  few  days. 
It  was  a  matter  of  great  pride  iun\  s«lf-gratulatiou 
to  Captain  Bonneville,  that  he  had  thus  accom- 
plished his  dreary  and  doubtful  entt'rprise  ;  and  he 
determined  to  pass  some  time  in  this  encampment, 
lioth  to  wait  the  return  of  IMiUthieu,  and  :o  give 
neetlftd  repose  to  men  and  horses. 

It  was,  in  fu«*t,  one  of  the  most  eligible  and 
delightful  wintering  giounds  in  that  v;hole  ranga 


EN  CAMP  MEM    ON   SNAKE  HIV  EH.       j73 


1^ 


:iii(l 


MgO 


of  country.  Tlie  Snake  River  liere  wound  its 
devious  way  between  low  banks  througb  the  great 
plain  of  the  Three  Butes ;  and  was  bordered  by 
wide  and  fertile  meadows.  It  was  studded  with 
islands,  which,  like  the  alluvial  bottoms,  were 
covered  with  groves  of  cotton-wood,  thickets  of 
willow,  tracts  of  gooil  lowland  grass,  and  abund- 
ance of  green  rushes.  The  adjacent  plains  were 
so  Viist  in  extent,  that  no  single  band  of  Indians 
could  drive  the  buffalo  out  of  them ;  nor  was  the 
snow  of  sufficient  depth  to  give  any  serious  incon- 
venience. Indeed,  during  the  sojourn  of  Captain 
Bonneville  in  this  neighborhood,  which  was  in  the 
heart  of  winter,  he  found  the  weather,  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  cold  and  stormy  days,  gene- 
rally mild  and  pleasant ;  freezing  a  little  at  night, 
but  invai'iably  thawing  with  the  morning's  sun — • 
resembling  the  spring  weather  in  the  middle  parts 
of  the  United  States. 

The  lofty  range  of  the  Three  Tetons,  those 
great  landmarks  of  the  Rocky  Mountiiins,  rising  in 
the  east,  and  circling  away  to  the  north  and  west 
of  the  great  plain  of  Snake  River ;  and  the  moun- 
fiiins  of  Salt  River  an«l  Fortneuf  towards  the 
south,  catdi  the  earliest  falls  of  snow.  Tiieir 
white  robes  lengthen  jis  the  winter  advances,  and 
spread  themselves  far  into  the  plain,  driving  the 
buffalo  in  herds  to  the  banks  of  the  river  in  quest 
^^f  food ;  where  they  arc  easily  slain  in  great 
numbers. 

Such  were  the  palpable  advantages  of  this 
winter  encampment ;  added  to  which,  it  was  secure 
from  the  provvlings  and  pluuderings  of  any  petty 


Ill 


174 


B  ONNE  VILLE'S  ADVENT  UP.  ES, 


band  of  roving  Blackfoet ;  the  (lifTiculf^es  of  rotrpat 
rciulcring  it  unwise  for  those  crafty  (Itipr^d  it'>ri 
to  venture  an  attack,  unless  with  an  ovfincvciiiig 
force. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  encampment  lay  the 
Banneck  Indians ;  numbering  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  lodges.  They  are  brave  and  cunnini' 
warriors,  and  deadly  foes  of  the  Biackfeet,  whom 
tlujy  easily  overcome  in  battles  where  their  fore  js 
are  ecjual.  They  are  not  vengeful  and  enterprising 
in  warfare,  however ;  seldom  sending  war  parties 
to  attiick  tiie  Biackfeet  towns,  but  contenting  them- 
selves with  defending  their  own  territories  and 
liouse.  About  one  third  of  their  warriors  are 
armed  with  fusees  ;  the  rest  with  bows  and  arrows. 

As  soon  as  the  spring  opens,  they  move  down 
the  right  bank  of  Snake  lliver,  and  encamp  ut  the 
heads  of  the  Boisee  and  Payette.  Here  their 
horses  wax  fat  on  goo<l  pasturage,  while  the  tribe 
revels  in  plenty  upon  the  flesh  of  deer,  elk,  bear, 
and  beaver.  They  then  descend  a  little  furtiier, 
and  are  met  by  the  Lower  Nez  Perces,  witii  whom 
tliey  trade  for  horses ;  jjriving  in  exchange  beaver, 
buffalo,  and  buffalo  i/..>38.  Hence  tliey  stiiko 
upon  the  trib^itary  str<.-Bis  on  the  left  bank  of 
Snake  lliver,  and  encamp  at  the  rise  of  the  Port- 
neuf  and  Blackfoot  streams,  in  the  buffalo  range. 
Their  horses,  although  of  the  Nez  Perce  breed, 
are  inferior  to  the  parent  stock,  from  being  ridden 
an  too  early  an  age  ;  being  often  bought  when  but 
two  years  old,  and  immediately  put  to  hard  work. 
They  have  fewer  horses,  also,  than  most  of  these 
migratory  tribes. 


THE  nORSE   CHIEF. 


17^ 


At  tlie  time  that  Captain  BonPG^'iilc  o.^me  into 
tho  iieighl»orhoO'i  of  thcso  Tiulians.,  tlioy  wen;  all 
in  mourning  for  their  chief,  siirn.uned  Tho  Ilor.so. 
Tliis  cliief  was  said  to  possess  a  cluirmed  life,  or 
rather,  to  be  invulnerable  to  lead;  no  bullet  having 
ever  hit  him,  tliough  he  had  been  in  n^peated 
batfles,  and  often  shot  at  by  the  surest  marksmen. 
Ho  had  shown  great  magnanimity  in  his  intercourse 
with  the  white  men.  One  of  the  great  men  of 
his  family  had  been  slain  in  an  attack  upon  a  band 
of  trappers  i)assing  through  the  territories  of  his 
tribe.  Vengeance  had  been  sworn  by  the  Ban- 
necks  ;  but  The  Horse  interfered,  declaring  In'm- 
sclf  the  friend  of  white  men,  and,  having  great 
influence  and  authority  among  his  i)eople,  lie  com- 
pelled them  to  forego  all  vindictive  j)lans,  and  to 
conduct  themselves  amicably  whenever  they  came 
in  contact  with  the  traders. 

This  chief  had  l)ravely  fallen  in  resisting  an  at- 
tack made  by  the  Blackfeet  upon  his  tribe,  while 
encamped  at  the  head  o^'  Godin  River.  His  fall 
in  nowise  lessened  the  faith  of  his  pe(>j)hj  in  his 
charmed  life ;  f(jr  they  declared  that  it  was  not  a 
bullet  which  laid  him  low,  'hut  a  bit  of  horn  which 
had  been  shot  into  him  by  some  l^lackfoot  marks- 
man  ;  aware,  no  doubt,  of  the  inciruiacy  of  lead. 
Since  his  death,  there  was  no  one  with  sufHcnent 
inliuence  over  the  tribe  to  restrain  the  wild  and 
})redatory  propensities  of  the  young  men.  The 
tonsoquence  was,  they  had  becmne  troublesome 
and  dangerous  neigh V)ors ;  openly  friendly,  for  the 
Bake  of  trallic,  but  disposed  to  conunit  secret  de- 
predations, and  to  molest  any  small  party  that 
aii^^ht  fall  within  their  reach. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Misadventures  of  Mattliicu  and  liis  party. —  Return  to  tim 
caches  at  Salmon  Uiver.  —  Battle  between  Nez  Perc(?3  and 
lilackfeet.  —  Heroism  of  a  Nez  Terc^i  wouian — earuUed 
among  the  braves. 


N  tlie  3(1  of  February,  Miitthieu,  with 
the  residue  of  his  bund,  arrived  in  camp. 
He  had  a  disastrous  story  to  relate 
After  parting  with  Captain  Bonneville  in  Green 
River  Valley,  he  had  proceeded  to  the  westward, 
keeping  to  the  north  of  the  Eutaw  Mountains,  a 
«pur  of  the  great  Rocky  chain.  Here  he  experi- 
enced the  most  ruirged  travelling  for  his  horses, 
and  soon  discovered  that  there  was  but  little 
cbance  of  meeting  the  Shoshonie  bands.  He  now 
proceeded  nlong  Hear  River,  a  stream  much  fre- 
qucLted  by  trappers;  intending  to  shape  his  course 
to  Salmon  jiiver,  to  rejoin  Captain  Bonneville. 

He  wis  misled,  however,  either  through  the 
ignorance  or  treachery  of  an  Indian  guide,  and 
conducted  into  a  wild  vnlley,  where  he  lay  en- 
camped during  the  autumn  and  the  early  part  of 
the  winter,  nearly  buried  in  snow,  and  almost 
Btarveu.  Earl^^  in  the  season  he  detached  five 
mui,  with  nine  horses,  to  proceed  to  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Sheep  Rock,  on  Bear  River,  where 
gume  was  plenty,  and  there  to  procure  a  supjdy 


ai 


,'ony 


;:r^'';  ^- 


„'■■■-   0... 


4 


iui\i 


ENCOUNTER    WITH  1  INDIANS. 


177 


five 
ibor- 
here 


for  the  uimp.  They  had  not  proceeded  far  on 
tlicir  expedition,  when  their  trail  was  discovered 
by  a  party  of  nine  or  ten  Indians,  wlio  immediately 
commenced  a  lurking  pursuit,  dogging  tliem  se- 
cretly for  five  or  six  days.  So  long  as  their  en 
Ciimpments  were  well  chosen,  and  a  proper  watcb 
maintained,  the  wary  savages  kept  aloof;  at  length 
observing  that  they  were  badly  encamped,  in  a 
situation  where  they  might  be  approached  with 
secrecy,  the  enemy  crept  stealthily  along  under 
cover  of  the  river  bank,  preparing  to  burst  sud- 
denly upon  their  prey. 

They  had  not  advanced  within  striking  distance, 
however,  before  they  were  discovered  by  one  of 
the  tra])pers.  He  immediately,  but  silently,  gave 
the  alarm  to  his  companions.  They  all  sprang 
upon  their  horses,  and  prepared  to  retreat  to  a 
safe  position.  One  of  the  party,  however,  named 
Jennings,  doubted  the  correctness  of  the  alarm, 
and,  before  he  mounted  his  horse,  wanted  to  as- 
certain the  fact.  His  companions  urged  him  to 
mount,  but  in  vain  ;  he  was  incredulous  and  ob- 
stinate. A  volley  of  fire-arms  by  the  savages  dis- 
pelled his  doubts ;  but  so  overpowered  his  nerves, 
that  he  was  unable  to  get  into  his  saddle.  Hi* 
comrades,  seeing  his  peril  and  confusion,  gener- 
ously leapt  from  their  horses  to  protect  liim.  A 
shot  from  a  rifle  brougiit  him  to  the  earth  ;  in  his 
agony  he  called  upon  the  other-:  not  to  desr-^^  him. 
Two  of  them,  Le  Roy  and  Ross,  after  fighting 
desperately,  were  captured  by  tln^  savages ;  the 
remaining  two  vaulte<l  into  their  saddles  and  saved 

themselves  by  headlong  flight,  being  pursued  for 

12 


'hi.-'   "-'v. 


f 


178 


D OSNE VILLE: S  ad VKN T UR ES. 


!l# 


ucjirly  thirty  miles.  They  got  siifcj  buck  to 
IMiitthieii's  (3iimp,  whore  tlieir  story  inspired  such 
dreiul  of  hirking  Indians,  tliat  the  liunters  coul<l 
not  be  prevailed  upon  to  undertake  another  foray 
in  (piest  of  provisions.  They  remained,  therefore, 
jdmost  starving  in  their  camp ;  now  and  then  kill- 
ing an  old  or  disabled  horse  for  food,  while  the 
elk  and  the  mountain  sheep  roamed  unmolested 
amon<x  the  surroundinir  mount:iins. 

The  disastrous  surprisal  of  this  hunting  party 
is  cited  by  Captain  Bonneville  to  show  the  im- 
portiuice  of  vigilant  watching  and  judit^ious  en- 
campments in  the  Indian  country.  Most  of  these 
kind  of  disasters  to  traders  and  trappers  arise  frcjm 
some  careless  inattention  to  the  state  of  their 
arms  and  ammunition,  the  placing  of  their  horses 
at  night,  the  position  of  their  camping  ground,  and 
the  posting  of  their  night  watches.  Tiie  Indian  is 
•X  vigilant  and  crafty  foe ;  by  no  means  given  to 
liarebrained  assaults;  he  seldom  attacks  when  ho 
finds  his  foe  well  i)repared  and  on  the  alert.  Cau- 
tion is  at  least  as  efficacious  a  protection  against 
liim  as  couraije. 

The  Indians  who  m:ide  tliis  attack  were  at  first 
supposed  to  be   Hlackfeet ;  until   Captain  l)onne- 
ville  found,  subsequently,  in  the  cam[)  of  the  Ban 
necks  a  horse,  saddle,  and  bridle,  which  he  re 
comiized  as  havinij  belonijed  to  one  of  the  hunters 
The    Bannecks,  however,  stoutly   denied  having 
taken  rJiese  spoils  in  fight,  and  persisted  in  affirm- 
ing that  the  outrage  had  been  perpetralcvl  by  a 
Blackfoot  band. 

Captain  lioiiueville  reiuaijieil  ou  Snake  Hi  er 


to 
M'h 
xM 
r;iy 
ore, 
kill- 

the 

>arty 

im- 
i  eu- 
tlioso 

from 

their 
lorses 
[1,  and 
ill  an  is 

en   to 

en  l»o 
Caii- 

(r-ainst 

it  lirst 
tonne- 
Uau 
lie  re 
inters 
^aviui5 
itrirn\- 
by  a 

iHier 


HARDS /I  I  PS    OF    rilE   MARCH. 


179 


nearly  three  v/eeks  after  tlie  arrival  of  Mattlileu 
and  his  party.  At  length  his  horses  having  re- 
covered streni^th  sulFicient  for  a  journey,  he  pre- 
I)ared  to  retnrii  to  the  Nez  Perces,  or  ratlier  to 
visit  his  caches  on  Salmon  River ;  that  he  mii^lit 
take  thence  goods  and  c(jnipments  for  the  opening 
ne:ison.  Accordingly,  leaving  sixteen  men  at 
Snake  River,  ho  set  out,  on  the  IDthof  February, 
with  sixteen  others,  on  his  journey  to  the  caches. 

Fording  the  river,  he  proceeded  to  the  borders 
of  the  deep  snow,  when  he  enc^amped  under  the 
lee  of  immense  piles  of  burnt  rock.  On  the  2l3t 
he  was  amiin  flounderinji  throiiixh  the  snow,  on 
the  great  Snake  River  plain,  where  it  lay  to  the 
depth  of  thirty  inches.  It  was  sufficiently  in- 
crusted  to  bear  a  pedestrian  ;  but  the  poor  lun'ses 
))roke  through  the  crust,  and  j)lunged  and  strained 
at  every  step.  So  lacerated  were  they  by  the  ice, 
that  it  was  necessary  to  change  the  fnjnt  cwiiry 
lumdred  yards,  and  put  a  diirerent  one  in  the  a<I- 
vance,  to  break  the  way.  The  open  i)rairies  were 
swept  by  a  piercing  and  biting  wind  from  the 
northwest.  At  night,  they  had  to  task  their  in- 
^einiity  to  provide  shelter  and  keep  from  freezing. 
In  the  first  place,  they  dug  deep  holes  in  the  snow, 
piling  it  up  in  ramparts  to  windward,  as  a  protec 
tion  against  the  blast.  Beneath  these,  they  spread 
buffalo  skins ;  upon  wdiich  they  stretched  them- 
selves in  full  (h*ess,  with  caps,  cloaks,  and  moc- 
casins, and  covered  themselves  with  numerous 
')iankets;  notwithstanding  all  which,  they  were 
iWx'.w  severely  pinched  with  the  cold. 

Ou  the  28th  of  February,  they  arrived  ou  the 


i 


w^ 


I  : 


•   1 


f: 


180 


B  ONNK  VI L  L  /C'  S  A  D  VKNTURES. 


I)juiks  of  (iodiii  Kiver.  This  stream  emerges 
from  the  inouiitiiina  opiKJsite  an  eastern  branch 
of  the  JNIahule  Kiver,  vuiinin*^  southeast,  forms  a 
deep  and  swift  current  about  twenty  yards  wide, 
j)assing  rapidly  tlirough  a  defile  to  which  it  gives 
its  name,  and  tlien  enters  the  great  phiin,  where, 
iafter  meandering  about  forty  miles,  it  is  finally 
lost  in  the  region  of  the  Burnt  Roeka. 

On  the  banks  of  this  river,  Caj)tain  Bonnevirio 
was  80  fortunate  as  to  come  upon  a  buffalo  trail. 
Following  it  up,  he  entered  the  deiile,  where  he 
remjiined  encamped  for  two  days,  to  alh^w  the 
hunters  time  to  kill  and  dry  a  supply  of  bufTido 
beef.  In  this  sheltered  deiile,  the  weather  was 
moderate,  and  grass  was  already  s})routing  more 
than  an  inch  in  height.  There  was  abundance, 
too,  of  the  salt  weed  ;  which  grows  most  plenti- 
ful in  clayey  and  gravelly  barrens.  It  resembles 
pennyroyal,  and  derives  its  name  from  a  partial 
saltness.  It  is  a  nourishing  food  for  the  horses 
in  the  winter,  but  they  reject  it  the  moment  the 
young  grass  affords  sufficient  pasturage. 

On  the  Oth  of  March,  having  cured  sufficient 
meat,  the  party  resumed  their  march,  and  moved 
on  with  comparative  ease,  excerpting  where  they 
had  to  make  their  way  through  snow-drifts  which 
had  been  piled  up  by  the  wind. 

On  the  11th,  a  small  cloud  of  smoke  was  ob- 
Berved  rising  in  a  deep  part  of  the  defile.  An 
encampment  was  instantly  formed,  and  scouts 
were  sent  out  to  reconnoitre.  They  returned 
with  intelligence  that  it  was  a  hunting  party  of 
Flatheads,  returning  from  the  buffalo  range  ladei) 


iicient 
iioved 
they 

Ls  ob- 

An 

icoutft 

lurued 

rtv  of 

ladei> 


BLACK  FOOT  A  ^r  BUS  CADE. 


181 


with  meat.  Captain  Bonneville  joined  tliem  the 
next  day,  and  persuaded  them  to  proceed  with 
his  party  a  few  miles  helow,  to  the  cjiches,  whith- 
er he  pro})0.sed  also  to  invite  the  Nez  Percua, 
whom  he  hoped  to  find  somewhere  in  this  nei<;h- 
horhood.  In  fact,  on  the  Kith,  he  was  rejoinc^l 
hy  that  friendly  tribe,  who,  since  he  separated 
from  them  on  Salmon  River,  had  likewise  been 
out  to  hunt  the  butfalo,  but  had  continued  to  1)6 
haunted  and  harassed  by  their  old  enemies  the 
lilackfect,  who,  as  usual,  had  contrived  to  carry 
off  many  of  their  horses. 

In  the  course  of  this  hunting  expedition,  a 
small  band  of  ten  lodges  separated  from  the  main 
body,  in  search  of  better  pasturage  for  their 
horses.  About  the  1st  of  INIarch,  the  scattered 
parties  of  Blackfoot  banditti  united  to  the  num- 
ber of  three  hundred  fighting  men,  and  deter- 
mined upon  some  signal  blow.  Proceeding  to 
the  former  cam[)ing  ground  of  the  Nez  Percds, 
they  found  the  lodges  deserted  ;  upon  which,  they 
hid  themselves  among  the  willows  and  tliickets, 
watciiing  for  some  straggler,  who  might  guide 
them  to  the  present  "  whereabout "  of  their 
intended  victims.  As  fortune  would  have  it, 
Kosato,  the  Blackfoot  renegade,  was  the  first  to 
})ass  along,  accompanied  by  his  blood-bought 
bride.  He  was  on  his  way  from  the  main  body 
of  hunters  to  the  little  band  of  ten  lodges.  The 
Blackfeet  knew  and  marked  him  as  he  passed ; 
he  was  within  bow-shot  of  their  ambusciide  ;  yet, 
much  as  they  thirsted  for  his  blood,  they  forbore 
to  launch  a  shaft ;  sparing  him  for  the  moment, 


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182 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


that  Ik  might  lead  them  to  their  prey.  Secretly 
following  his  trail,  they  discovered  the  lodges  of 
the  unfortunate  Nez  Percys,  and  assailed  them 
with  shouts  and  yellings.  The  Nez  Percds  num- 
bered only  twenty  men,  and  but  nine  were  armed 
with  fusees.  They  showed  themselves,  however, 
as  brave  and  skillful  in  war  as  they  had  been 
mild  and  long-suffering  in  peace.  Their  first  care 
was  to  dig  holes  inside  of  their  lodges ;  thus  en- 
sconced, they  fought  desperately,  laying  several 
of  the  enemy  dead  upon  the  ground ;  while  they, 
though  some  of  them  were  wounded,  lost  not  a 
single  warrior. 

During  the  heat  of  the  battle,  a  woman  of  the 
Nez  Perces,  seeing  her  warrior  badly  wounded  and 
uuable  to  %ht,  seized  his  bow  and  arrows,  and 
bravely  and  successfully  defended  his  person,  con- 
tributing to  the  safety  of  the  whole  party. 

In  another  part  of  the  field  of  action,  a  Nez 
Percd  had  crouched  behind  the  trunk  of  a  flillen 
tree,  and  kept  up  a  galling  fire  from  his  covert. 
A  Blackfoot  seeing  this,  procured  a  round  log, 
and  placing  it  before  him  as  he  lay  prostrate, 
rolled  it  forward  towards  the  trunk  of  the  tree 
behind  \»hich  his  enemy  lay  crouched.  It  was 
a  moment  of  breathless  interest :  whoever  first 
showed  himself  would  be  in  danger  of  a  shot. 
The  Nez  Percds  put  an  end  to  the  suspense. 
The  moment  the  logs  touched,  he  sprang  upon 
his  feet,  and  discharged  the  contents  of  his  ftisee 
into  the  back  of  his  antagonist.  By  this  time, 
the  Blackfeet  had  got  possession  of  the  horses ; 
eeveral  of  their  warriors  lay  deitd  on  the  field. 


hii 


con- 


)rses ; 
fieW, 


FATE   OF  K  OS  AT  a. 


183 


and  tlie  Nez  Percys,  ensconced  in  tlicir  lodges, 
soemod  resolved  to  defend  themselves  to  the  last 
gasp.  It  so  happened  that  the  chief  of  the  Black- 
feet  party  was  a  renegade  from  the  Nez  Percys ; 
unlike  Kosato,  however,  ho  had  no  vindictive 
rage  against  his  native  tribe,  but  was  rather  dis 
posed,  now  he  had  got  the  booty,  to  spare  all  un- 
necessary effusion  of  blood.  He  held  a  long 
parley,  therefore,  with  the  besieged,  and  finally 
drew  off  his  warriors,  taking  with  him  seventy 
horses.  It  appeared,  afterwards,  that  the  bullets 
of  the  Blackfeet  had  been  entirely  expended  in 
tlie  course  of  the  battle,  so  that  they  were 
obliged  to  make  use  of  stones  as  substitutes. 

At  the  outset  of  the  fight,  Kosato,  the  rene- 
gade, fought  with  fury  rather  than  vuior  :  ani- 
mating the  others  by  word  as  well  as  deed.  A 
wound  in  the  head  from  a  rifle  ball  laid  him 
senseless  on  the  earth.  There  his  body  remained 
when  the  battle  was  over,  and  the  victors  were 
leadinij  off  the  horses.  His  wife  hunor  over  him 
with  frantic  lamentations.  The  conquerors  paused 
and  urged  her  to  leave  the  lifeless  renegade,  and 
return  with  them  to  her  kindred.  She  refused 
to  listen  to  their  solicitations,  and  they  passed 
on.  As  she  sat  watching  the  features  of  Kosato, 
and  giving  way  to  passionate  grief,  she  thought 
she  perceived  him  to  breathe.  She  was  not  mis- 
taken. The  ball,  which  had  been  nearly  spent 
before  it  struck  him,  had  stunned  instead  of  kill- 
ing him.  By  the  ministry  of  his  faithful  wife, 
he  gradually  recovered  ;  reviving  to  a  redoubled 
love  for  her,  and  hatred  of  his  tribe. 


111' 


ill* 


II 


^11 


184 


BONNE  VILLFTS  A D  VENTURES. 


As  to  the  female  who  had  so  bravely  defended 
her  husband,  she  was  elevated  by  the  tribe  to  a 
rank  far  above  her  sex,  and,  beside  other  honor- 
able distinctions,  was  thenceforward  permitted  to 
take  a  part  in  the  war  dances  of  the  bj-aves  I 


;,  if    1 


!? 


.:i 


CFIAPTER   XVir. 

Opening  of  the  caches.  —  Detachments  of  Cerr(5  and  Ilodff- 
kiss.  —  Salmon  River  ISIoiintains.  —  Superstition  of  an  In- 
dian trapper.  —  Godin's  Ilivcr.  —  Preparations  for  trappings. 

—  An  alarm.  —  An   interruption.  —  A  rival    band. —  Phe- 
nomena of  Snake  River  Plain.  —  Vast  clefts  and  chasms. 

—  Ingulfed  streams.  —  Sublime  scenery.  —  A  grand  buf- 
falo hunt. 

APTAIN  BONNEVILLE  found  his 
caches  perfectly  secure,  and  having  se- 
cretly opened  them,  he  selected  such  ar- 
ticles as  were  necessary  to  equip  the  free  trap- 
pers, and  to  supply  the  inconsiderable  tn.de  with 
the  Indians,  after  which  he  closed  them  again. 
Tiie  free  trappers  ing  newly  rigged  out  and 
supplied,  were  in  high  spirits,  and  swaggered 
gayly  about  the  camp.  To  compensate  all  hands 
for  past  sufferings,  and  to  give  a  cheerful  spur  to 
further  operations,  Captain  Bonneville  now  gave 
the  men  what,  in  frontier  phrase,  is  termed  "  a 
regular  blow  out.  It  was  a  day  of  uncouth 
gambols  and  frolics,  and  rude  feasting.  The  In- 
dians joined  in  the  sports  and  games,  and  was  all 
mirth  and  good  fellowship. 

It  was  now  the  middle  of  March,  and  Captain 
Bonneville  made  preparations  to  open  the  spring 
campaign.     He  had  pitched  upon  Malade  River 


>i  >i 


lii 


*\ 


186 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


\\  %      :• 


w  s 


f 


for  liis  main  trapping  grouiid  for  the  season. 
This  is  a  stream  which  rises  amotior  the  great 
bed  of  mountains  noi'th  of  tiie  hiva  phiin,  and  after 
a  winding  course,  falls  into  Snake  River.  Pre- 
vious to  his  departure,  the  captain  dispatched  Mr. 
CeiTe  with  a  few  men,  >  vi^it  the  Indian  villages 
and  purchase  horses ;  he  furnished  his  clerk,  Mr. 
Hodgkiss,  also  with  a  small  stock  of  goods,  to 
keep  up  a  trade  with  the  Indians  during  the 
spring,  for  such  peltries  as  they  might  collect, 
appointing  the  caches  on  Salmon  River  as  the 
point  of  rendezvous,  where  they  were  to  rejo'n 
him  on  the  15th  of  June  following. 

This  done,  he  set  out  for  Malade  River  with 
a  band  of  twenty-eight  men,  composed  of  hired 
and  free  trappers,  and  Indian  hunters,  together 
with  eight  squaws.  Their  route  lay  up  along 
the  right  fork  of  Salmon  River,  as  it  pjisses 
through  the  deep  defile  of  the  mountains.  They 
travelled  very  slowly,  not  above  five  miles  a  day, 
for  many  of  the  horses  were  so  weak  that  they 
faltered  and  staggered  as  they  walked.  Pasturage, 
however,  was  now  growing  plentiful.  There  was 
abundance  of  fresh  gi-ass,  which  in  some  places 
had  attained  such  heiofht  as  to  wave  in  the  wind. 
The  native  fiocks  of  the  wilderness,  the  mountain 
sheep,  as  tbey  are  called  by  the  trappers,  were 
continually  to  be  seen  upon  the  hills  between 
which  they  passed,  and  a  good  supply  of  mutton 
was  provided  by  the  hunters,  as  they  were  ad- 
vancing towards  a  region  of  scarcity. 

In  the  course  of  his  journey.  Captain    Bonne 
ville  had  occasion  to  remark  an  instance  of  the 


Inl'itii 


n 


IND I A  N  S  UPERS  TI TI  ON. 


187 


Ivviis 
Lces 
lind. 
Itaiii 
^ere 
reeii 
toil 
ad- 

ime 
itbe 


many  notions,  and  almost  superstitions,  which 
prevail  ainonoj  the  Indians,  and  amon;^  some  of 
the  white  men,  with  respect  to  the  sagacity  of 
the  beavei*.  The  Indian  hnnters  of  his  party 
were  in  the  h{d)i^  of  exploring  all  the  streams 
along  which  they  [)assed,  in  ..earcii  of  "  beaver 
lodges,"  and  occasionally  set  their  traps  with 
some  success.  One  of  them  however,  though  an 
experienced  and  skillful  trapper,  was  invariably 
unsuccessful.  Astonished  and  mortified  at  such 
unusual  bad  luck,  he  at  length  conceived  the  idea, 
that  there  was  some  odor  about  his  person,  of 
which  the  beaver  got  scent,  and  retreated  at  his 
approach.  He  inunediately  set  about  a  tiiorough 
purification.  Maki  2;  a  rude  sweating  house  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  he  would  shut  himself  up 
until  in  a  reeking  perspiration,  and  then  suddeidy 
emerging,  woidd  plunge  into  the  river.  A  num- 
ber of  these  sweatings  and  plungings  having,  as 
he  supposed,  rendered  his  person  perfectly  "  ino- 
dorous," he  resumed  his  trapping  with  renovated 
hope. 

About  the  begimiing  of  April,  they  encamped 
upon  Grodin's  River,  where  tiiey  found  the  swamp 
full  of  "  muskrat  houses."  Here,  therefore.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  determined  to  remain  a  lew  days 
and  make  his  first  regidar  attempt  at  trapping. 
That  his  maiden  cam[)aign  might  open  with 
spirit,  he  promised  the  Indians  and  free  trappers 
an  extra  price  for  every  muskrat  they  should 
take.  All  now  set  to  work  for  the  next  day's 
fport.  The  utmost  animjition  and  gayety  pre- 
vailed throughout  the  camp.     Everything  looked 


I 


»  i  \ 


\\ 


188 


B ONNE  VI LIE'S  A D  VENTURES. 


•\\\ 


auspicious  for  their  spring  Ccimpaign.  The  abim- 
dance  of  muskrats  in  the  swamp,  was  but  an 
earnest  of  the  nobler  game  they  were  to  find 
wlien  they  sliould  reach  tlie  Mahide  River,  and 
have  a  capital  beaver  country  all  to  themselves, 
where  they  might  trap  at  their  leisure  without 
molestation. 

In  the  midst  of  their  gayety,  a  hunter  came 
galloping  into  the  camp,  shouting,  or  rather  yell- 
ing, "  A  trail !  a  trail !  —  lodge  poles  !  lodge 
poles ! " 

These  were  words  full  of  meaning  to  a  trap- 
per's ear.  They  intimated  that  there  was  some 
band  in  the  neighborhood,  and  probably  a  hunt- 
ing party,  as  they  had  lodge  poles  tor  an  en- 
campment. The  hunter  came  up  and  told  his 
story.  He  had  discovered  a  fresh  trail,  in  which 
the  traces  made  by  the  dragging  of  lodge  poles 
were  distinctly  visible.  The  •  buffalo,  too,  had 
just  been  driven  out  of  the  neighborhood,  which 
showed  that  the  hunters  had  already  been  on  the 
range. 

The  gayety  of  the  camp  was  at  an  end ;  all 
preparations  for  muskrat  trapping  were  sus- 
pended, and  all  hands  sallied  forth  to  examine 
the  trail.  Their  worst  fears  were  soon  con- 
firmed. Infallible  signs  showed  the  unknown 
party  in  the  advance  to  be  white  men  ;  doubt- 
less, some  rival  band  of  trappers  !  Here  was 
competition  when  least  expected  ;  and  that,  too, 
by  a  party  already  in  the  advance,  who  were 
driving  the  game  before  them.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  now  a  taste  of  the  sudden  transitions  to 


RIVAL    TRAPPERS. 


189 


m 


ii 


1 


which  a  trapper's  life  is  subject.  The  buoyant 
confidence  in  an  uninterrupted  hunt  was  at  an 
end;  every  co*  ntenance  lowered  with  gloom  and 
disappointment. 

Captain  Bonnevillo  immediately  dispatched 
two  spies  to  overtake  the  rival  party,  and  en- 
deavor to  learn  (heir  plans  ;  in  the  meantime,  he 
turned  his  back  upon  the  swamp  and  its  muskrat 
houses,  and  followed  on  at  *^  long  camps."  which, 
in  trapper's  language,  is  equivalent  to  long  stages. 
On  the  6th  of  April,  he  met  his  spies  returning. 
Tiiey  had  kept  on  the  irail  like  hounds,  '.mtil 
they  overtook  tlie  party  at  the  south  end  of 
Godin's  Defile.  Here  they  found  them  comfort- 
ably encamped,  twei.ty-two  prime  trappers,  all 
well  appointed,  with  excellent  horses  in  capital 
condition,  led  by  Milton  Sublette,  and  an  able  co- 
adjutor named  Jarvie,  and  in  full  march  for  the 
Malado  hunting  ground. 

This  was  stunnintr  news.  The  Malade  River 
was  the  only  trapping  ground  within  reach  ;  but 
to  have  to  compete  there  with  veteran  trappers, 
perfectly  at  home  among  the  mountains,  and  ad- 
mirably mounted,  while  they  were  so  poorly 
p  ovided  with  horses  and  trappers,  and  had  but 
one  man  in  iheir  party  acquainted  with  the 
country  —  it  was  out  of  the  question  ! 

The  only  hope  that  now  remained,  was  that 
the  snow,  which  still  lay  deep  among  the  moun- 
t'lins  of  Godin  River,  and  blocked  up  the  usual 
pass  to  the  Malade  country,  might  detain  the 
Dther  party,  until  Captain  Bonneville's  horses 
ehould  get  once  more  into  good  condition  in  their 
present  ample  pasturage. 


190 


B  ONNE  VILLI'? S  AD  VENTURES, 


The  rival  i);irties  now  oncainped  together,  not 
out  of  coinpaniuijslilp,  but  to  keep  an  eye  upon 
each  other.  Day  alter  day  passed  by,  without 
tiiiy  possibility  of  getting  to  tiie  Malade  country. 
Sublette  and  Jarvio  endeavored  to  force  their 
way  across  the  mountain;  but  the  snows  lay  ho 
deep  as  to  oblige  tiiein  to  turn  back.  In  the 
meantime,  the  captain's  horses  were  daily  gain- 
ing strength,  and  their  hoofs  improving,  which 
had  been  vvoimi  luid  battered  by  mountain  service. 
The  captain,  also,  was  increasing  Iiis  stock  of 
provisions,  so  that  the  delay  was  all  in  his  favor. 

To  any  one  who  merely  contemplates  a  map 
of  the  country,  this  dilliculty  of  getting  from 
Godin  to  Malade  River  will  appear  inexplicable, 
as  the  interveninii  mountains  terminate  in  the 
great  Snake  River  plain,  so  that,  apparently,  it 
would  be  perfectly  easy  to  proceed  round  their 
bases. 

Here,  however,  occur  some  of  the  striking 
phenomena  of  tin's  wild  and  sublime  I'cgion. 
The  great  lower  plain  which  extends  to  the  feet 
of  these  mountains  is  broken  up  near  their  bases 
into  crests  and  ridges,  resembling  the  surges  of 
the  ocean   breaking  on  a  rocky  siiore. 

In  a  line  with  the  mountains,  the  plain  is 
gashed  with  immerous  and  dangerous  chasms, 
from  four  to  ten  feet  wide,  and  of  great  depth. 
Captain  Bonneville  attempted  to  sound  some  of 
these  openings,  but  without  any  satisfactory  re- 
sult. A  stone  dropped  into  one  of  them  rever- 
berated against  the  sides  for  apparently  a  XQvy 
great  depth,  and,  by  its  sound,  indicated  the  same 


:i.  1-        •  ■:;,.|: 


SNAKE  RIVER  PLAIN, 


191 


\\'\ 


iii  li 


.mg 


of 

In  is 
Isms, 
;pti\. 
of 
re- 
;ver- 
very 


kind  of  suUstanec  with  tlie  sui'fiu^o,  us  lonjjj  hs 
the  strokes  could  he  heard.  Tlie  horse,  instiny- 
t\\'v\y  sa<;acions  in  avoidIn«:f  danger  shrinks  l)ark 
in  ahum  fi'oni  the  least  of  these  ehiisnis  ;  priirk- 
ing  up  his  ears,  snorting  and  pawing,  until  per- 
mitted to  turn  away. 

AVe  have  been  toM  by  a  person  well  ao 
quainted  with  the  country,  tliat  it  is  aouietinies 
neccfrsary  to  travel  fifty  and  ?^ixty  miles,  to  get 
rou!id  one  of  these  tremendoris  ravines.  Consid- 
erable streams,  like  that  of  Godin's  River,  that 
lun  with  a  bold,  free  current,  lose  themselves  in 
this  plain  ;  some  of  them  end  in  swamps,  others 
suddenly  disappear ;  finding,  no  doubt,  subterra- 
nean outlets. 

Opposite  to  these  chasms,  Snjd^e  River  makes 
two  desperate  leaps  over  precipices,  at  a  sliort 
distance  from  each  other ;  one  twenty,  the  other 
forty  feet  in   height. 

The  volcanic  plain  in  question  forms  an  area 
of  about  sixty  miles  in  diameter,  where  nothing 
meets  the  eye  but  a  desolate  and  awful  waste  ; 
■•vhere  no  grass  grows  nor  water  runs,  and  where 
nothing:  is  to  be  seen  but  lava.  Ran<2jes  of 
mountains  skirt  this  plain,  and,  in  Captain  Bon- 
n^iville's  opinion,  were  formerly  comiected,  until 
rent  asunder  by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  Far 
to  the  east,  the  Three  Tetons  lift  their  heads  sub- 
limely, and  dominate  this  wide  sea  of  lava; — one 
of  the  most  striking  features  of  a  wilderness 
where  everything  seems  on  a  scale  of  stern  and 
simple  grandeur. 

We    look    forward   with  impatience  for    some 


192 


D  ON  NIC  VI LL  A"  B  AD  VEN  TURES. 


imn. 


ftblo  geologist  to  explore  thid  sublime,  but  ftlino8t 
unkiiowu  rescioii. 

It  was  not  until  (he  2/>th  of  April,  that  tlie 
two  parties  of  traf)pers  broke  up  their  eiieanip- 
nieuts,  and  undertook  to  cross  over  the  soulhwest 
end  of  the  inoutitain  by  a  pass  explored  by  their 
scouts.  From  various  points  of  the  mountain, 
they  commanded  boundless  prospects  of  the  lava 
plain,  stretching  away  in  cold  and  gloomy  bar- 
renness as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  On  the 
evening  of  the  26th,  they  reached  the  plain  west 
of  the  mountain,  watered  by  the  Malade,  the 
Boisee,  and  other  streams,  which  comprised  the 
contemplated  trapping  ground. 

The  country  about  the  Boisde  (or  Woody) 
River,  is  extolled  by  Captain  Bonneville  as  the 
most  enchanting  he  had  seen  in  the  Far  West: 
presenting  the  mingled  grandeur  and  beauty  of 
mountain  and  plain  ;  of  bright  ruiming  streams 
and  vast  grassy  meadows  waving  to  the  breeze. 

We  shall  not  follow  the  captain  throughout  his 
trapping  campaign,  which  lasted  until  the  begin- 
ning of  June ;  nor  detail  all  the  maneuvers  of 
the  rival  trapping  parties,  and  their  various 
schemes  to  outwit  and  out-trap  each  other  Suf- 
fice it  to  say,  that  after  having  visited  and  camped 
about  various  streams  with  various  success.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  set  forward  early  in  June  for  the 
appointed  rendezvous  at  the  caches.  On  the 
way,  he  treated  his  party  to  a  grand  buffalo  hunt. 
The  scouts  had  reported  numerous  herds  in  a 
plain  beyond  an  intervening  height.  There  was 
au    immediate    halt ;    the    fleetest    horses    were 


BUFFALO  nUNT. 


193 


Suf. 
iped 
iCap- 
Ir  the 
the 
hunt, 
in  a 
was 

Iweie 


forthwith  mounted,  and  the  party  advanced  to 
tlie  summit  of  the  hill.  Hence  they  heliehl  tho 
great  phiiii  below  ahsohitely  swiirmin«;  with  buf- 
falo. Captain  Boimeville  now  appointed  the 
place  where  he  would  encamp ;  and  towards 
which  the  hunters  were  to  drive  the  game.  lie 
cautioned  the  latter  to  advance  slowly,  reserving 
the  strength  and  9j)eed  of  the  horses,  until  within 
a  moderate  distance  of  tho  herds.  Twenty-two 
horsemen  descended  cautiously  into  the  plain, 
conformably  to  these  dire(!tions.  "  It  was  a 
beautiful  sight,"  says  the  captain,  "  to  see  the 
rumiers,  as  they  are  called,  advancing  in  column, 
at  a  slow  trot,  until  within  two  hundred  ami  fifty 
yards  of  the  outskirts  of  the  herd,  then  dashing 
on  at  full  speed,  until  lost  in  the  immense  multi- 
tude of  butTaloes  scouring  the  plain  in  every  di- 
rection." All  was  now  tumult  and  wild  confu- 
sion. In  the  meantime,  Captain  Boimeville  and 
the  residue  of  the  party  moved  on  to  the  ap- 
pointed camping  ground  ;  thither  the  most  expert 
runners  succeeded  in  driving  numbers  of  buffalo, 
which  were  killed  hard  by  the  camp,  and  the 
flesh  transported  thither  without  difficulty.  In  a 
little  while  the  whole  camp  looked  like  one  great 
slaughter-house  ;  the  carcasses  were  skillfully  cut 
up,  great  fires  were  made,  scaffolds  erected  for 
drying  and  jerking  beef,  and  an  ample  provision 
was  made  for  future  subsistence.  On  the  15th 
of  June,  the  precise  day  appointed  for  the  ren- 
dezvous, Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  ar- 
rived safely  at  the  caches. 

Here  he  was  joined  by  the  other  detachments 
18 


11 


'f 


194 


B ONIJEVILLE? S  AD  VENTURES, 


of  his  main  party,  all  in  good  health  and  spiritg. 
The  caches  were  again  opened,  supplies  of  vari- 
ous kinds  taken  out,  and  a  liberal  allowance  of 
aqua  vita  distributed  througlioui  the  camp,  to 
celebrate  with  proper  conviviality  this  merry 
meeting. 


J^ 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

M<>eting  with  Ilodffkisa.  —  IMisfortunes  of  the  Nez  Percys.  — 
Stliemes  of  Kosato,  the  renej^ailo  —  his  foray  into  the  Horse 
Prairie.  —  Iriva^^ion  of  IMackfeet.  —  Bhie  John,  and  hia 
forlorn  hope  —  their  fjcnerous  enterprise  —  their  fate.  — 
Consternation  and  despair  of  the  vilia.cce. — Solemn  obse- 
quies.—  Attempi  at  Indian  trade.  —  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany's monopoly.  —  Arrangements  for  autumn.  —  Breaking 
up  of  an  encampment. 

"t^lAVING  now  a  pretty  strong  party,  well 
armed  and  equipped.  Captain  Bonne- 
ville no  longer  felt  the  neces.sity  of 
fortifying  himself  in  the  secret  places  and  fast- 
nesses of  the  niountains ;  but  sallied  forth  boldly 
into  tlie  Snake  River  plain,  in  search  of  his  clerk, 
riodgkiss,  who  had  remained  with  the  Nez 
Perccs.  He  found  him  on  the  24th  of  June, 
and  learnt  from  him  anotlier  chapter  of  misfor- 
tunes which  had  racently  befallen  that  ill-fated 
race. 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Bonneville,  in 
March,  Kosato,  the  renegade  Blackfbot,  had  re- 
covered from  the  wound  received  in  battle ;  and 
with  his  strength  revived  all  his  deadly  liostility 
to  his  native  tribe.  He  now  resumed  his  efforts 
to  stir  up  the  Nez  Perces  to  reprisals  upon  their 
old  enemies ;   reminding  them  incessantly  of  all 


1 

1 

i 

i  i 

i  i  ; 

'■  I 

!  ' ' 

I       HI 

r 

i 

■y     a: 

m 


196 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


l|il 


If 


m 


the  outrages  and  robberies  they  had  recently  ex- 
perienced, and  assuring  them  tliat  such  would 
continue  to  be  their  lot,  until  they  proved  theni- 
Belves  men  by  some  signal  retaliation. 

The  impassioned  eloquence  of  the  desperado, 
at  length  produced  an  effect ;  and  a  band  of 
braves  enlisted  under  his  guidance,  to  penetrate 
into  the  Blackfoot  country,  harass  their  villages, 
carry  off  their  horses,  and  commit  all  kinds  of 
depredations. 

Kosato  pushed  forward  on  his  foray,  as  far  as 
the  Horse  Prairie ;  where  he  came  upon  a  strong 
party  of  Blackfeet.  Without  waiting  to  esti- 
mate their  force,  he  attacked  them  with  charac- 
teristic fury,  and  was  bravely  seconded  by  his 
followers.  The  contest,  for  a  time,  was  hot  and 
bloody :  at  length,  as  is  customary  with  these  two 
tribes,  they  paused,  and  held  a  long  parley,  or 
rather  a  war  of  words. 

"  What  need,"  said  the  Blackfoot  chief,  taunt- 
ingly, "  have  the  Nez  Perccs  to  leave  their  homes, 
and  sally  forth  en  war  parties,  when  they  have 
danger  enough  at  their  own  doors  ?  If  you  want 
fighting,  return  to  your  villages ;  you  will  have 
plenty  of  it  there.  The  Blackfeet  warriors  have 
hitherto  made  war  upon  you  as  children.  They 
are  now  coming  as  men.  A  great  force  is  at 
hand  ;  they  are  on  their  way  to  your  towns,  and 
are  determined  to  rub  out  the  very  name  of  the 
Nez  Perces  from  the  mountains.  Return,  I  say, 
to  your  towns,  and  fight  there,  if  you  wish  to  live 
any  longer  as  a  people." 

Kosato  took  him  at  his  word ;  for  he  knew  the 


BLUE  JOHN'S  ENTERPRISE. 


197 


\unt- 
)mes. 
mve 
want 
have 
have 
phey 
is  at 
,  an^l 
the 
say, 
live 

the 


character  of  his  native  tribe.  Hastening  back 
with  his  band  to  the  Nez  Perce  village,  he  told 
all  that  he  had  seen  and  heard ;  and  urged  the 
most  prompt  and  strenuous  measures  for  defense. 
The  Nez  Perces,  however,  heard  him  with  their 
accustomed  phlegm  :  the  threat  of  the  Blackfeet 
had  been  often  made,  r.nd  as  often  had  proved  a 
mere  bravado  ;  such  they  pronounced  it  to  be  at 
present,  and,  of  course,  took  no  precautions. 

They  were  soon  convinced  that  it  was  no 
empty  menace.  In  a  few  days,  a  band  of  three 
hundred  Blackfeet  warriors  appeared  upon  ilie 
hills.  All  now  was  consternation  in  the  village. 
The  force  of  the  Nez  Perces  was  too  small  to 
cope  with  the  enemy  in  open  fight ;  many  of  the 
young  men  having  gone  to  their  relatives  on  the 
Columbia  to  procure  horses.  The  sages  met  in 
hurried  council.  What  was  to  be  done  to  ward 
off  a  blow  which  threatened  annihilation  ?  In 
this  moment  of  imminent  peril,  a  Pierced-nose 
chief,  named  Blue  John  by  the  whites,  offered  to 
approach  secretly  with  a  small,  but  chosen  band, 
through  a  defile  which  led  to  the  encampment 
of  the  enemy,  and,  by  a  sudden  onset,  to  drive 
off  the  horses.  Should  this  blow  be  successful, 
the  spirit  and  strength  of  the  invaders  would  be 
broken,  and  the  Nez  Perces,  having  horses, 
would  be  more  than  a  match  for  them.  Should 
It  fail,  the  village  would  not  be  worse  off  than  at 
present,  when  destruction  appeared  inevitable. 

Twenty-nine  of  the  choicest  warriors  instantly 
volunteered  to  follow  Blue  John  in  this  hazard- 
ous enterprise.     They  prepared  for  it  with  the 


!   ■! 


m 


198 


B  ONNE  VILLE' S  AD  VEN T URE8. 


Bolemnity  and  devotion  peculiar  to  the  tribe. 
Blue  Jolin  consulted  his  medicine,  or  talismanic 
charm,  such  as  every  chief  keeps  in  his  lodge  as 
a  supernatural  protection.  The  oracle  assured 
him  that  his  enterprise  would  be  completely  suc- 
cessful, provided  no  rain  should  fall  before  he  had 
passed  through  the  defile;  but  should  it  rain,  his 
band  would  be  utterly  cut  off. 

The  day  was  clear  and  bright ;  and  Blue  John 
anticipated  that  the  skies  would  be  propitious. 
He  departed  in  high  spirits  with  his  forlorn 
hope  ;  and  never  did  band  of  braves  make  a 
more  gallant  display  —  horsemen  and  horses  be- 
ing decorated  and  equipped  in  the  fiercest  and 
most  glaring  style  —  glittering  with  arms  and 
ornaments,  and  fluttering  with  feathers. 

The  weather  continued  serene,  until  they 
readied  the  defile;  but  just  as  they  were  enter- 
ing it,  a  black  cloud  rose  over  the  mountain  crest, 
and  there  was  a  sudden  shower.  The  warriors 
turned  to  their  leader  as  if  to  read  his  opinion  of 
tiiis  unlucky  omen ;  but  the  countenance  of  Blue 
John  remained  unchanged,  and  they  contiimed  to 
press  forward.  It  was  their  hope  to  make  their 
way,  undiscovered,  to  the  very  vicinity  of  the 
Black  foot  camp  ;  but  they  had  not  proceeded  far 
in  the  defile,  when  they  met  a  scouting  party  of 
the  enemy.  They  attacked  and  drove  them 
among  the  hills,  and  were  pursuing  them  with 
great  eagerness,  when  they  heard  shouts  and 
yells  behind  them,  and  beheld  the  main  body  of 
the  Blackfeet  advancing. 

The  second  chief  wavered  a  little  at  the  sight. 


n 


DEFEAT   OF   THE  NEZ  PERCiS.         199 

and  proposed  an  instant  retreat.  "  We  came  to 
fight !  "  replied  Blue  Jolin,  sternly.  Then  giv- 
ing his  war-whoop,  he  sprang  forward  to  the 
conflict.  His  braves  followed  him.  They  made 
a  headlong  cliarge  upon  the  enemy  ;  not  with 
the  hope  of  victory,  but  the  determination  to  sell 
their  lives  dearly.  A  frightful  carnage  rather 
than  a  regular  battle,  succeeded.  The  forlorn 
band  laid  heaps  of  their  enemies  dead  at  their 
feet,  but  were  overwhelmed  with  numbers,  and 
pressed  into  a  gorge  of  the  mountain,  where  they 
continued  to  fight  until  they  were  cut  to  pieces. 
One,  only,  of  the  thirty  survived.  He  sprang  on 
the  horse  of  a  Blackfoot  warrior  whom  he  had 
slain,  and  escaping  at  full  speed,  brought  home 
the  baleful  tidings  to  his  village. 

Who  can  paint  the  horror  and  desolation  of 
the  inhabitants  ?  The  flower  of  their  warriors 
laid  low,  and  a  ferocious  enemy  at  their  doors. 
The  air  was  rent  by  the  shrieks  and  lamenta- 
tions of  the  women,  who,  casting  off  their  orna- 
ments, and  tearing  their  hair,  wandered  about, 
frantically  bewailing  the  dead,  and  predicting 
destruction  to  the  living.  The  remaining  war- 
riors armed  themselves  for  obstinate  defense ;  but 
showed  by  their  gloomy  looks  and  sullen  silence, 
that  they  considered  defense  hopeless.  To  their 
surprise,  the  Blackfeet  refrained  from  pursuing 
their  advantage;  perhaps  satisfied  with  the  blood 
already  shed,  or  disheartened  by  the  loss  they 
had  themselves  sustained.  At  any  rate,  they  dis- 
appeared from  the  hills  and  it  was  soon  ascer- 
tained that  t!iey  had  returned  to  the  Horse 
Prairie. 


^ 


ii 


I 


200 


B  ONNE  VILLUS  AD  VENT  ORES. 


The  unfortuiuite  Nez  Perces  now  began  once 
more  to  broathe.  A  lew  of  their  warriors,  tak- 
ing pack-horses,  repaired  to  the  dehl'j  to  bring 
away  the  bodies  of  their  shiughtered  brethren. 
They  found  them  mere  headless  trunks  ;  and  the 
wounds  with  which  they  were  covered,  showed 
how  bravely  tley  had  fought.  Their  hearts,  too, 
had  been  torn  out  and  carried  otf ;  a  proof  of 
their  signal  valo:  •  for  in  devouring  the  heart  of 
a  foe  renowned  tor  bravery,  or  who  has  distin- 
guished  himself  in  battle,  the  Indian  victor  thinks 
he  appropriates  to  himself  the  courage  of  the  de- 
cease<l. 

Gatherinof  the  mangled  bodies  of  the  slain,  and 
strapping  them  across  their  pack-horses,  the  war- 
riors returned,  in  dismal  procession,  to  the  village. 
The  tribe  came  forth  to  meet  them  ;  the  women 
with  pierc'ng  cries  and  wailings  ;  the  men  with 
downcast  countenances,  in  which  gloom  and  sor- 
row seemed  fixed  as  if  in  marble.  The  muti- 
lated and  almost  undistinofuishable  bodies  were 
placed  in  rows  upon  the  ground,  in  the  midst 
of  the  assemblage ;  and  the  scene  of  heart-rend- 
ing anguish  and  lamentation  that  ensued,  would 
have  confounded  those  who  insist  on  Indian 
stoicism. 

Such  was  the  disastrous  event  that  had  over- 
whelmed the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  during  the  ab- 
sence of  Captain  Bonneville ;  and  he  was  in- 
formed that  Kosato,  the  renegade,  who,  being 
stationed  in  the  village,  had  been  prevented  from 
going  on  the  forlorn  hope,  was  again  striving  to 
rouse    the    vindictive    feelings    of    his    adopted 


ver- 
ab- 
in- 
jing 


UNSUCCESSFUL  ATTEMPT  TO   TRADE.    201 

brethren,  and   to  prompt    them    to    revenge    tho 
fahiuiijliter  of  their  devoted  braves. 

During  his  sojourn  on  the  Siiake  River  plain, 
Captain  lionneviile  made  one  of  his  first  essays 
at  the  strategy  of  tlie  fur  trade.  There  was  at 
this  time  an  assemblage  of  Nez  Perees,  Flat- 
heads,  and  Cottonois  Indians,  encamped  together 
upon  the  plain ;  well  provided  with  benver,  which 
they  had  collected  during  the  spring.  These 
they  were  waiting  to  traffic  with  a  resident  trader 
(>f  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  was  sta- 
tioned among  them,  and  with  whom  they  were 
accustomed  to  deal.  As  it  happened,  the  trader 
was  almost  entirely  destitute  of  Indian  goods ; 
his  spring  supply  not  having  yet  reached  him. 
Captain  l-v>nneville  had  secret  intelligence  that 
supplies  were  on  their  way,  and  would  soon  ar- 
rive ;  he  hoped,  howeverj  by  a  prompt  move,  to 
anticipate  their  arrival,  and  secure  the  market  to 
himself.  Throwing  himself,  therefore,  among 
the  Indians,  he  opened  his  packs  of  merchandise, 
and  displayed  the  most  tempting  wares ;  bright 
cloths,  and  scarlet  blankets,  and  glittering  orna- 
ments, and  everything  gay  and  glorious  in  the 
eyes  of  warrior  or  squaw ;  all,  however,  was 
in  vain.  The  Hudson's  Bay  trader  was  a  per- 
fect master  of  his  business,  thoroughly  acquainted 
with  the  Indians  he  had  to  deal  with,  and  held 
such  control  over  them,  that  none  dared  to  act 
openly  in  opposition  to  his  wishes:  nay  more  — — 
he  came  nigh  turning  the  tables  upon  the  captain, 
and  shaking  the  allegiance  of  some  of  his  free 
wrappers,    by    distributing    liquors    among    them. 


IIH 


!i 


■i 

it' 


■■■;  t 


ii 


i- 


202 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


The  latier,  therefore,  was  glad  to  give  up  a  com- 
petition, where  the  war  was  likely  to  be  carried 
into  his  own  eamp. 

In  fact,  the  traders  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany have  advantages  over  all  competitors  in  the 
trade  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains.  That  huge 
mono|)oly  centres  within  itself  not  merely  its  own 
hereditary  and  long-established  power  and  influ- 
ence ;  but  also  those  of  its  ancient  rival,  but  now 
integral  part,  the  famous  Northwest  Company. 
It  has  thus  its  races  of  traders,  trappers,  hunters, 
and  voyageurs,  born  and  brougiit  up  in  its  service, 
and  inheriting  from  preceding  generations  a  know- 
ledge and  aptitude  in  everything  connected  with 
Indian  life,  and  Indian  tiailic.  In  the  process  of 
years,  this  company  has  been  enabled  to  spread 
its  ramifications  in  every  direction  ;  its  system  of 
intercourse  is  founded  upon  a  long  and  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  ciiaracter  and  necessities  of  the 
various  tribes  ;  and  of  all  the  fastnesses,  defiles 
and  favorable  hunting  grounds  of  the  country. 
Their  capital,  also,  and  the  manner  in  which  th'^jlr 
supplies  are  distributed  at  various  posts,  or  for- 
warded by  regular  caravans,  keep  their  traders 
well  supplied,  and  enable  them  to  furnish  their 
goods  to  the  Indians' at  a  cheap  rate.  Their  men, 
too,  being  chiefly  drawn  from  the  Canadas,  where 
they  enjoy  great  influence  and  control,  are  en- 
gaged at  the  most  trifling  wages,  .  nd  supported 
at  little  cost ;  the  provisions  which  they  take  witli 
them  beinsr  little  more  than  Indian  corn  and 
grease.  They  are  brought,  also,  into  the  most 
perfect    discipline    and    subordination,    especially 


they 


THE  COTTON  OIS  FEAR   THE  BLACK  FEET.    203 

when  their  lemlers  have  once  got  tliein  to  their 
Bcene  o^  action  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

Tliese  circumstances  combine  lo  give  tiie  leaders 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  a  decided  advan- 
XiigQ  over  all  the  American  companies  that  come 
within  their  range ;  so  that  any  close  competition 
with  them  is  almost  hopeless. 

Shortly  after  Captain  Bonneville's  ineffectual 
attempt  to  participa  ?  in  the  trade  of  the  asso- 
ciated camp,  the  supplies  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  arrived ;  and  the  resident  trader  was 
enabled  to  monopolize  the  market. 

It  was  now  the  beginning  of  July  ;  in  the  lat- 
ter part  of  which  month,  Captain  Bonneville  had 
appointed  a  rendezvous  at  Horse  Creek,  in  Green 
River  Valley,  with  some  of  the  parties  which  he 
had  detached  in  the  preceding  year.  He  now 
turned  his  thoughts  in  that  direction,  and  prepared 
for  the  journey. 

The  Cottonois  we»'e  anxious  for  him  to  proceed 
at  once  to  their  country ;  which,  they  assured  him, 
abounded  in  beaver.  The  lands  of  this  tribe  lie 
immediately  north  of  those  of  the  Flatheads,  and 
are  open  to  the  inroads  of  the  Blackfeet.  It  is 
true,  the  latter  professed  to  be  their  allies  ;  bit 
tliey  had  been  guilty  of  so  many  acts  of  perfidy, 
that  the  Cottonois  had,  latterly,  renounced  their 
hollow  friendship,  and  attached  themselves  to 
the  Flatheads  and  Nez  Perces.  These  they  had 
ftccompanied  in  their  migrations,  rather  than  re- 
main alone  at  home,  exposed  to  the  outrages  of 
the  Blackfeet.  They  were  now  apprehensive  that 
these  marauders  would  range  their  country  dur- 


ii-  i 


11 


tl 


204 


BOS  NEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


irig  their  absence,  and  destroy  the  beaver:  tliis 
was  their  reason  for  urginjj;  Captain  lionneville 
to  make  it  his  autnmiial  '•  'Mtinj;  yiound.  The 
latter,  liowevcr,  vva.s   no  Do  tempted  :   Ids  en- 

gagements reqiured  Ids  presence  at  tlie  rendezvous 
in  Gre(Mi  River  Valley  ;  and  he  had  already 
formed  his  ulterior  plans. 

An  unexpected  dilficulty  now  arose.  The 
free  trappei'S  suddeidy  made  a  stand,  and  declined 
to  accompany  him.  It  was  a  long  and  weary 
journey  ;  the  route  lay  through  Pierre's  Hole, 
and  other  mountain  passes  infested  by  the  Black- 
feet,  and  recently  the  scenes  of  sanguinary  con- 
flicts. They  were  not  disposed  to  undertake  such 
umiecessary  toils  and  dangers,  when  they  had 
good  and  secure  trapping  grounds  nearer  at  hand, 
on  the  head  waters  of  Salmon  River. 

As  these  were  {vQit  and  independent  fellows, 
whose  will  and  whim  were  a[)t  to  be  law  —  who 
had  the  whole  wilderness  before  them,  "  where  to 
choose,"  and  the  trader  of  a  rival  company  at 
hand,  ready  to  pay  for  their  services  —  it  was 
necessary  to  bend  to  their  wishes.  Captain  Bon- 
neville fitted  them  out,  therefore,  for  the  hunting 
ground  in  question ;  appointing  Mr.  Hodgkiss 
to  act  as  their  partisan,  or  leader,  and  fixing  a 
rendezvous  where  he   should  meet   them  in  the 

course  of  the  ensuing  winter.     The  brigade  con- 
es o 

sisted  of  twenty-one  fi'ee  trappers,  and  four  or 
five  hired  men  as  camp-keepers.  This  was  not 
the  exact  arrangement  of  a  trapping  party ; 
which,  when  accurately  organized,  is  composed 
of  two  thirds   trappeis,  whose   duty   leads  them 


M'ere 
taking 
and  pi 
pers,  ai 
tic  dres 


'    '■ .. 


DISPERSION   OF    THE   CAMPS, 


205 


ling  a 
U  the 
con- 
ir  or 
IS  not 
larty ; 
Iposed 
them 


continuully  abroad  in  pursuit  of  game  ;  and  ono 
third  camp-keepers,  who  cook,  pack,  and  unpack; 
pet  up  the  tents,  take  care  of  the  horses,  and  do 
all  other  duties  usually  assi;j;ned  by  the  Indians  to 
their  women.  This  part  of  the  service  is  apt  to 
be  fullilled  by  French  Creoles  from  Canada  and 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

In  the  meantiuie,  the  associjited  Inib'ans,  having 
completed  their  trade  and  received  tlieir  supplies, 
were  all  ready   to  disperse  in   various  directions. 

As  there  was  a  tbrniidable  band  of  lilackfeet 
just  over  a  mountain  to  the  northeast,  by  which 
Hodgkiss  and  his  free  trappers  would  have  to 
pass ;  and  as  it  was  known  that  those  sharp- 
sighted  marauders  had  their  scouts  out,  watching 
every  movement  of  the  encampments,  so  as  to 
cut  off  stragglers  or  weak  detachments,  Captain 
Bonneville  prevailed  upon  the  Nez  Perces  to  ac- 
company Hodgkiss  and  his  party,  uni  I  they 
should  be  beyond  the  range  of  the  enemy. 

The  Cottonois,  and  the  Pends  Oreilles,  deter- 
mined to  move  together  at  the  same  time,  and  to 
pass  close  under  the  mountain  infested  by  the 
Blackfeet;  while  Captain  Bonneville,  with  hia 
party,  was  to  strike  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the 
southeast,  bending  his  course  for  Pierre's  Hole, 
on  his  way  to  Green  River. 

Accordingly,  on  the  Gth  of  July,  all  the  camps 
M'ere  raised  at  the  same  moment ;  each  party 
taking  its  separate  route.  The  scene  was  wild 
and  picturesque :  the  long  line  of  traders,  trap- 
pers, and  Indians,  with  their  rugged  and  fantas- 
tic dresses  and  accoutrements  ;  their  varied  weap- 


mi 


206 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ons,  their  iiimimerablc  horses,  some  under  tlie 
fituUlIe,  some  bunleiuMl  with  packaj^es,  others  fol- 
lowing in  droves;  all  stretching  in  lengthening 
cavalcades  across  the  vast  landscape,  and  making 
for  different  points  of  the  plaiim  and  mountains. 


r 


Iftii  'A^ 


W) 


M 


the 


CHAPTER    XIX. 


M 


Precautions  in  danperous  defiles.  —  Trappers*  mode  of  derense 
on  a  prairio. —  A  mysterious  visitor.  —  Arrival  in  Green 
JJiver  Valley.  —  Adventures  of  the  detachments.  —  The 
forlorn  partisan  —  his  tulo  of  disasters. 


P  CI 


S  the  route  of  Captain  Bonneville  lay 
through  what  was  considered  the  most 
perilous  part  of  this  re<^on  of  dangers, 
he  took  all  his  measures  with  military  skill,  and 
ohserved  the  strictest  circumspection.  When  on 
the  march,  a  small  scouting  party  was  thrown 
in  the  advance,  to  reconnoitre  the  country  through 
which  they  were  to  pass.  The  encampments 
were  selected  with  great  care,  and  a  watch  was 
kept  up  night  and  day.  The  horses  were  brought 
in  and  picketed  at  night,  and  at  daybreak  a  party 
was  sent  out  to  scour  the  neighborhood  for  half  a 
mile  round,  beating  up  every  grove  and  thicket 
that  could  give  shelter  to  a  lurking  foe.  Wlien 
all  was  reported  safe,  the  horses  were  cast  loose 
and  turned  out  to  graze.  Were  such  precautions 
generally  observed  by  traders  and  hunters,  we 
should  not  so  often  hear  of  parties  bemg  sur- 
prised by  the  Indians. 

Having  stated  the  military  arrangements  of 
the  captain,  we  may  here  mention  a  mode  of 
defense  on  the  open  prairie,  which  we  have  heard 


i! 

I  M 


208 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Fit 

ill 


from  a  veteran  iu  the  Indian  trade.  When  a 
party  of  trap{)ers  is  on  a  journey  witli  a  convoy 
of  goods  or  peltries,  every  man  has  three  pack- 
horses  under  his  care  ;  each  horse  hiden  with 
three  packs.  Every  man  is  })rovided  with  a 
picket  with  an  iron  head,  a  mallet,  and  hobbles, 
or  leathern  fetters  for  the  horses.  The  trappers 
proceed  across  the  prairie  in  a  long  line ;  or 
sometimes  three  parallel  lines,  sufficiently  distant 
from  each  other  to  prevent  the  packs  from  inter- 
fering. At  an  alarm,  when  there  is  no  covert  at 
hand,  the  line  wheels  so  as  to  bring  the  front  to 
the  rear  and  form  a  circle.  All  then  dismount, 
drive  their  pickets  mto  the  ground  in  the  centre, 
fasten  the  horses  to  them,  and  hobble  their  fore 
legs,  so  that,  m  case  of  alarm,  they  cannot  break 
away.  They  then  unload  them,  and  dispose  of 
their  packs  as  breastworks  on  the  periphery  of  the 
circle ;  each  man  having  nine  packs  behind  which 
to  shelter  himself.  In  this  promptly-formed  fort- 
ress, they  await  the  assault  of  the  enemy,  and  are 
enabled  to  set  large  bands  of  Indians  at  defiance. 
The  first  night  of  his  march,  Cajjtain  Bonne- 
ville encamped  upon  Henry's  Fork  ;  an  upper 
branch  of  Snake  River,  called  after  the  first 
American  trader  that  erected  a  fort  beyond  the 
mountains.  About  an  hour  after  all  hands  had 
come  to  a  halt  the  clatter  of  hoofs  was  heard,  and 
a  solitary  female,  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  came  gal- 
loping up.  She  was  mounted  on  a  mustiing,  or 
half- wild  horse,  which  she  managed  by  a  long 
rope  hitched  round  the  under  jaw  by  way  of 
bridle.      Dismounting,  she    walked   silently  into 


place 


W^h. 


i^suuanimititimmtkiikm 


3reak 
se  of 
»f  the 
vhicU 
fort- 
(1  tire 
ance. 
nne- 
ipper 
iirst 
the 
had 
aud 
n-al- 
12^.  or 
long 

y  ot* 

hi  to 


NEW  RECRUIT. 


209 


the  midst  of  the  camp,  and  there  seated  herself 
on  the  ground,  still  holding  her  horse  by  the  long 
halter. 

Tlie  sudden  and  lonely  apparition  of  this 
woman,  and  her  calm,  yet  resolute  demeanor, 
awakened  universal  curiosity.  The  hunters  and 
liappers  gathered  round,  and  gazed  on  her  as 
Eomething  mysterious.  She  remahied  silent,  but 
maintained  her  air  of  Ciilmness  and  self-possession. 
Captain  Bonneville  approached  and  interrogated 
her  as  to  the  object  of  her  mysterious  visit.  Her 
answer  was  brief  but  earnest  —  "I  love  the 
whites  —  I  will  go  with  them."  She  was  forth- 
with invited  to  a  lodge,  of  which  she  readily 
took  possession,  and  from  that  time  forward  was 
considered  one  of  the  camp. 

In  consequence,  very  probably,  of  the  military 
precautions  of  Captain  Bonneville,  he  conducted 
his  party  in  safety  through  this  hazardous  region. 
No  accident  of  a  disastrous  khid  occurred,  ex- 
cepting the  loss  cf  a  horse,  which,  in  passing  along 
the  giddy  edge  of  the  precipice,  called  the  Cor- 
nice, a  dangerous  pass  between  Jackson's  and 
Pierre's  Hole,  fell  over  the  brink  and  was  dashed 
to  pieces. 

On  the  13th  of  July,  (1833,)  Captain  Bonne- 

ville  arrived  at  Green  River.     As  he  entered  the 

valley,  he  beheld   it  strewed   in  every  direction 

with  the  carcasses  of  buffaloes.     It  was  evident 

that  Indians  had  recently  been  there,  and  in  great 

numbers.     Alarmed  at  this   sight,  he  came  to  a 

halt,  and  as  soon  it  was  dark,  sent  out  spies  to  his 

place  of  rendezvous  on  Horse  Creek,  where  he 

u 


ii 


hi 


!( 


:  1 


lil 


'  I 


210 


BONNEVJLLE'S  AOyENTURES. 


mtm' 


m 


had  expected  to  meet  with  his  detached  parties  of 
tra})pers  on  the  following  day.  Early  in  tlie 
morning,  the  spies  made  their  appearance  in  the 
camp,  and  with  them  came  three  trappers  of  one 
of  his  bands,  from  the  rendezvous,  who  told  him 
his  people  were  all  there  expecting  him.  As  to 
the  slaughter  among  the  buffaloes,  it  had  been 
made  by  a  friendly  band  of  Shoshonies,  who  ha<l 
fjillen  in  with  one  of  his  trapping  parties,  and 
accompanied  them  to  the  rendezvous.  Havhig 
imparted  this  intelligence,  the  three  worthies  from 
the  rendezvous  broached  a  small  keg  of  "  alcohol," 
which  they  had  brought  with  them,  to  enliven  this 
merry  meeting.  The  li(juor  went  briskly  round ; 
all  absent  friends  were  toasted,  and  the  party 
moved  forward  to  the  rendezvous  in  high  spirits. 
The  meeting  of  associated  bands,  who  have 
been  separated  from  each  other  on  these  hazard- 
ous enterprises,  is  always  interesting  ;  each  having 
its  tale  of  perils  and  adventures  to  relate.  Such 
was  the  case  with  the  various  .detachments  of 
Captain  Bonneville's  company,  thus  brought 
together  on  Horse  Creek.  Here  was  the  de- 
tachment of  fifty  men  which  he  had  sent  from 
Salmon  River,  in  the  preceding  month  of  No- 
vember, to  winter  on  Snake  River.  They  had 
met  with  many  crosses  and  losses  in  the  course 
of  their  spring  hunt,  not  so  much  from  Indians  as 
from  white  men.  They  had  come  in  competition 
with  rival  trapping  parties,  particularly  one  be- 
longing to  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company ; 
and  they  had  long  stcu'ies  to  relate  of  their 
uaaneuvers    to    forestaii    <u'  distress    each   other. 


any ; 
\i\mT 
i>ther. 


A    F  on  LORN  PARTISAN'. 


211 


In  fact,  in  these  virulent  and  sordid  competitions, 
the  trappers  of  each  party  were  more  intent  upon 
injuring  their  rivals,  than  benefiting  themselves ; 
breaking  each  other's  traps,  trampling  and  tearing 
to  pieces  the  beaver  lodges,  and  doing  everything 
in  their  power  to  mar  the  success  of  the  hunt. 
We  forbear  to  detail  these  pitiful  contentions. 

The  most  lamentable  talc  of  disasters,  how- 
ever, that  Captain  Bonneville  had  to  hear,  was 
from  a  partisan,  whom  he  had  detached  in  the 
preceding  year,  with  twenty  men,  to  hunt  through 
the  outskirts  of  the  Crow  country,  and  on  the 
tributary  streams  of  the  Yellowstone  ;  whence 
he  was  to  proceed  and  join  him  in  his  winter 
quarters  on  Salmon  River.  This  partisan  ap- 
peared at  the  rendezvous  without  his  party,  and 
a  sorrowful  tale  of  disasters  had  he  to  relate.  In 
hunting  the  Crow  country,  he  fell  in  with  a  village 
of  that  tribe  ;  notorious  rogues,  jockeys,  and  horse 
stealers,  and  errant  scamperers  of  the  mountains. 
These  decoyed  most  of  his  men  to  desert,  and 
carry  off  horses,  traps,  and  accoutrements.  When 
he  attempted  to  retake  the  deserters,  the  Crow 
warriors  ruffled  up  to  him  and  declared  the  de- 
serters vvere  their  good  friends,  had  determined  to 
remain  among  them,  and  should  not  be  molested. 
The  poor  partisan,  therefore,  was  fain  to  leave 
his  vagabonds  among  these  birds  of  their  own 
feather,  and,  being  too  weak  in  numbers  to  at- 
tempt the  dangerous  pass  across  the  mountains  to 
meet  Captain  Bonneville  on  Salmon  River,  he 
made,  with  the  few  that  remained  faitliful  to  him, 
for  the  neighborhood  of  TuUock's  Fort,  on  the 


!1 


if 


'.1 


' 


'it 


- 


i 


I 


III! 


212 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Yellowstone,  under  the  protection  of  which  he 
went  into  winter  quarters. 

He  soon  found  out  that  the  neighborhood  of 
the  fort  was  nearly  as  bad  as  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Crows.  His  men  were  continually  stealing 
away  thither,  with  whatever  beaver  skins  they 
could  secrete  or  lay  their  hands  on.  These  they 
would  exchange  with  the  hangers-on  of  the  fort 
for  whisky,  and  then  revel  in  drunkenness  and 
debauchery. 

The  unlucky  partisan  made  another  move. 
Associating  with  his  party  a  few  fi*ee  trappers, 
whom  he  met  with  in  this  neighborhood,  he  started 
wfF  early  in  the  spring  to  trap  on  the  head  waters 
of  Powder  River,  In  the  course  of  the  journey, 
his  horses  were  so  much  jaded  in  traversing  a  steep 
mountain,  that  he  was  mduced  to  turn  them  loose 
to  graze  duruig  the  night.  The  place  was  lonely  ; 
the  path  was  rugged ;  there  was  not  the  sign  of 
an  Indian  in  the  neighborhood ;  not  a  blade  of 
grass  that  had  been  turned  by  a  footstep.  But 
who  can  calculate  on  security  in  the  midst  of  the 
Indian  country,  where  the  foe  lurks  in  silence  and 
secrecy,  and  seems  to  come  and  go  on  the  wings 
of  the  wind  ?  The  horses  had  scarce  been  turned 
loose,  when  a  couple  of  Arickara  (or  Rickaree) 
warriors  entered  the  camp.  They  affected  a  frank 
and  friendly  demeanor ;  but  their  appearance  and 
movements  awakened  the  suspicions  of  some  of 
the  veteran  trappers,  well  versed  in  Indian  wiles. 
Convinced  that  they  were  spies  sent  on  some  sui- 
ister  errand,  they  took  them  in  custody,  and  set  to 
work  to  drive  in  the  horses.     It  was  too  late  — 


Pf  loff; 


■tfUWliMMillMii 


■iiM'' 


w*.--  >  ,m^tmv*m 


I 


fg^ 


NEGOTIATION    WITH  ARICKARAS,       213 

the  horses  were  already  gone.  In  fact,  a  waf 
party  of  Arickaras  had  been  hoverhig  on  their 
trail  for  several  days,  watching  with  the  patience 
and  perseverance  of  Indians,  for  some  moment 
of  negligence  and  fancied  security,  to  make  a  suc- 
cessful swoop.  The  two  spies  had  evidently  been 
sent  into  the  camp  to  create  a  diversion,  while 
their  confederates  carried  off  the  spoil. 

The  unlucky  partisan,  thus  robbed  of  his  horses, 
turned  furiously  on  his  prisoners,  ordered  them  to 
be  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  swore  to  put  them 
to  death  unless  his  property  were  restored.  The 
robbers,  who  soon  found  that  their  spies  were  in 
captivity,  now  made  their  appearance  on  horseback, 
and  held  a  parley.  The  sight  of  them,  mounted 
on  the  very  horses  they  had  stolen,  set  the  blood 
of  the  mountiiiueers  in  a  ferment ;  but  it  was  use- 
less to  attack  them,  as  they  would  have  but  to 
turn  their  steeds  and  scamper  out  of  the  reach  of 
pedestrians.  A  negotiation  was  now  attempted. 
The  Arickaras  offered  what  they  considered  fair 
terms ;  to  barter  one  horse,  or  even  two  horses, 
for  a  prisoner.  The  mountaineers  spurned  at 
their  offer,  and  declared  that,  unless  all  the  horses 
were  relinquished,  the  prisoners  should  be  burnt 
to  death.  To  give  force  to  their  threat,  a  pyro 
yf  logs  and  fagots  was  heaped  up  and  kindled  into 
a  blaze. 

The  parley  continued ;  the  Arickaras  released 
one  horse  and  then  another,  in  earnest  of  their 
proposition ;  finding,  however,  that  nothing  short 
of  the  relinquishment  of  all  their  spoils  would 
purchase  the  lives  of  the  captives,  they  abandoned 


214 


B ONNE ML L A" H  AD  VE^.  TURES. 


tlicin  to  their  fate,  moving  off  with  many  parting 
words  and  lamentable  howlings.  The  prisoners 
seeing  them  depart,  and  knowing  the  horrible  fate 
that  awaited  them,  made  a  desperate  effort  to 
escape.  They  partially  succeeded,  but  were  se- 
verely wounded  and  retaken  ;  then  dragged  to  the 
blazing  pyre,  and  burnt  to  death  in  the  sight  of 
their  retreating  comrades. 

Such  are  the  savage  cruelties  that  white  men 
learn  to  practice,  who  mingle  in  savage  life ;  and 
such  are  the  acts  that  lead  to  terrible  recrimination 
on  the  part  of  the  Indians.  Should  we  hear  of 
any  atrocities  committed  by  the  Arickaras  upon 
captive  white  men,  let  this  signal  and  recent  pro- 
vocation be  borne  in  mind.  Individual  cases  of 
the  Idnd  dwell  in  the  recollections  of  whole  tribes ; 
and  it  is  a  point  of  honor  and  conscience  to  re- 
venge them. 

The  loss  of  his  horses  completed  the  ruin  of 
the  unlucky  partisan.  It  was  out  of  his  power 
to  prosecute  his  hunting,  or  to  maintain  his  party  ; 
the  only  thought  now  was  how  to  get  back  to 
civilized  life.  Ai  the  first  water-course,  his  men 
built  canoes,  and  committed  themselves  to  the 
stream.  Some  engaged  themselves  at  various 
tradmg  establishments  at  which  they  touched, 
others  got  back  to  the  settlements.  As  to  the 
partisan,  he  found  an  opportunity  to  make  his  way 
to  the  rendezvous  at  Green  River  Valley ;  which 
he  r^sached  in  time  to  render  to  Captain  Boimeville 
this  forlorn  account  of  his  misadventures. 


ve- 


to 


HE  Green  River  Valley  was  at  his  time 
the  scene  of  one  of  those  general  gather- 
ings of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians, 
that  we  have  already  mentioned.  The  three  rival 
companies,  which,  for  a  year  past  had  been  en- 
deavoring to  out-trade,  out-trap,  and  out-wit  each 
other,  were  here  encamped  in  close  proximity, 
awaiting  their  annual  supplies.  About  four  miles 
from  the  rendezvous  jf  Captain  Bonneville  was 
that  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  hard  by 
which,  was  that  also  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 
Company. 

After  the  eager  rivalry  and  almost  hostility  dis- 
played by  these  companies  in  their  late  campaigns, 
it  might  be  expected  that,  when  thus  brought  in 
juxtaposition,  they  would  hold  themselves  warily 
and  sternly  aloof  from  each  other,  and,  should  they 
Happen  to  come  in  contact,  brawl  and  bloodshed 
would  ensue. 

No  such  thing !  Never  did  rival  lawyers,  after 
a  wrangle  at  the  bar,  meet  with  more  social  good 


iil 


CHAPTER  XX. 

'jratherin^  m  Greon  River  Valley.  —  Visitinffs  and  feastinga 
of  loaders.  —  Rout^li  wassailing  among  the  trappers.  — 
Wild  blades  of  tlie  mountains.  —  Indian  belles.  —  I'otency 
of  bright  beads  and  red  blankets.  —  Arrival  of  supplies. — 
Revelry  and  extravagance.  —  Mad  wolves.  —  The  lost  In- 
dian. 


If  m^'i  ■        ! 


I! 


216 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


im 


humor  at  a  circuit  dinner.  The  liunting  season 
over,  all  past  tricks  and  maneuvers  are  forgotten, 
all  feuds  and  bickerinijs  buried  in  oblivion.  From 
the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of  September, 
all  trapping  is  suspended  ;  for  the  beavers  are  then 
sheddini;  their  furs,  and  their  skins  are  of  little 
value.  This,  then,  is  the  trapper's  holiday,  when 
lie  is  all  for  fun  and  frolic,  and  ready  for  a  satur- 
nalia amoncj  the  mountains. 

At  the  present  season,  too,  all  parties  were  in 
good  humor.  The  year  had  been  productive. 
Competition,  by  threatening  to  lessen  their  prof- 
its, had  quickened  their  wits,  roused  their  ener- 
gies, and  made  them  turn  every  flxvorable  chance 
to  the  best  advantage  ;  so  that,  on  assembling  at 
their  respective  places  of  rendezvous,  each  com- 
pany found  itself  in  possession  of  a  rich  stock  of 
peltries. 

The  leaders  of  the  different  companies,  there- 
fore, mingled  on  terms  of  perfect  good  fellowship  ; 
interchanging  visits,  and  regaling  each  other  in 
the  best  style  their  respective  camps  afforded. 
But  the  rich  treat  for  the  worthy  captain  was  to 
see  the  "  chivalry  "  of  the  various  encampments, 
engaged  in  contests  of  skill  at  running,  jumping, 
wrestling,  shooting  with  the  rifle,  and  running 
horses.  And  then  their  rou£jh  hunters'  feastin^js 
and  carousals.  They  drank  together,  they  sang, 
they  laughed,  they  whooped  ;  they  tried  to  out- 
brag  and  outlie  each  other  in  stories  of  their 
adventures  and  achievements.  Here  the  free 
trappers  were  in  all  their  glory  ;  they  considered 
themselves  the  "  cocks  of  the  walk,"  and  always 


object 
him  wi 
of  his 


EXTRAVAGANCE   OF  TRAPPERS. 


217 


Ling3 


carried  the  highest  crests.  Now  aiul  then  famil- 
iarity Wiis  pushed  too  far,  and  would  effervesce 
into  a  brawl,  and  a  "  rough  and  tumble  "  fight ; 
but  it  all  ended  in  cordial  reconciliation  and 
maudlin  endearment. 

The  presence  of  the  Shoshonie  tribe  contrib- 
uted occasionally  to  cause  temporary  jealousies 
and  feuds.  The  Shoshonie  beauties  becjmie  ob- 
jects of  rivalry  among  some  of  the  amorous 
mountaineers.  Happy  was  the  trapper  who 
could  muster  up  a  red  blanket,  a  string  of  gay 
beads,  or  a  j)aper  of  precious  vermilion,  with 
which  to  win  the  smiles  of  a  Shoshonie  fair  one. 

The  caravans  of  supplies  arrived  at  the  valley 
just  at  this  period  of  gallantry  and  good-fellow- 
ship. Now  commenced  a  scene  of  eager  compe- 
tition and  wild  prodigality  at  the  different  en- 
campments. Bales  were  hastily  ripped  open, 
and  their  motley  contents  poured  forth.  A  ma- 
nia for  purchasing  spread  itself  throughout  the 
several  bands,  —  munitions  for  war,  for  hunting, 
for  gallantry,  were  seized  upon  with  equal  avid- 
ity —  rifles,  hunting  knives,  traps,  scarlet  cloth, 
red  blankets,  gairish  beads,  and  glittering  trinkets, 
were  bought  at  any  price,  and  scores  run  up 
without  any  thought  how  they  were  ever  to  bo 
rubbed  off.  The  free  trappers,  especially,  were 
extravagant  in  their  purchases.  For  a  free 
mountaineer  to  pause  at  a  paltry  consideration 
of  dollars  and  cents,  in  the  attainment  of  any 
object  that  might  strike  his  fancy,  would  stamp 
him  with  the  mark  of  the  beast  in  the  estimation 
of  his  comrades.     For  a  trader  to  refuse  one  of 


218 


B ONNE V!L L F/S  AD VEN T UR FS. 


tliese  free  and  floiiriKliing  blades  a  credit,  wliat. 
ever  unpaid  scores  niiglit  stare  him  in  the  face, 
would  be  a  flagrant  affront  scarcely  to  be 
forgiven. 

Now  succeeded  another  outbreak  of  revelry 
and  extravagance.  The  trappers  were  newly 
fitted  out  and  arraj^ed,  and  dashed  about  with 
their  horses  caparisoned  in  Indian  style.  The 
Shoshonie  beauties  also  flaunted  about  in  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow.  Every  freak  of  prodigal- 
ity was  indulged  to  its  full  extent,  and  ui  a 
little  while  most  of  the  trappers,  having  squan- 
dered away  all  their  wages,  and  perhaps  run 
knee-deep  in  debt,  were  ready  for  another  hard 
campaign  in  the  wilderness. 

During  this  season  of  folly  and  frolic,  there 
was  an  alarm  of  mad  wolves  in  the  two  lower 
camps.  One  or  more  of  these  animals  entered 
the  camps  three  nights  successively,  and  bit  sev- 
eral of  the  people.  ; 

Captain  Bonneville  relates  the  case  of  an  In- 
dian, who  was  a  universal  favorite  in  the  lower 
camp.  He  had  been  bitten  by  one  of  these  ani- 
mals. Being  out  with  a  party  shortly  after- 
wards, he  grew  silent  and  gloomy,  and  lagged 
l)ehiTid  the  rest  as  if  he  wished  to  leave  them. 
They  halted  and  urged  him  to  move  faster,  but 
lie  entreated  them  not  to  approach  him,  and,  leap- 
ing from  his  horse,  began  to  roll  frantically  on 
the  earth,  gnashing  his  teeth  and  foaming  at  the 
mouth.  Still  he  retained  his  senses,  and  warned 
his  companions  not  to  come  near  him,  as  ho 
Bhould  not  be  able  to  restrain  himself  from  bitin« 


CASKS   OF  nYDROrnOBIA. 


219 


them.  They  Imrneil  off  to  obtain  relief;  but  on 
tlieir  return  lie  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  Ilia 
Iwrse  and  accoutrements  remained  upon  the  spot. 
Three  or  four  days  afterwards  a  solitary  Indian, 
believed  to  be  the  same,  was  observed  crossin*^  a 
valley,  and  pursued  ;  but  he  d.irted  away  into  the 
fastnesses  of  the  mountains,  and  was  seen  no 
more. 

Another  instiince  we  have  from  a  different  per- 
son who  was  present  in  the  encampment.  One  of 
the  men  of  the  Kocky  Mountain  Fur  Company 
had  been  bitten.  He  set  out  shortly  afterwards, 
in  company  with  two  white  men,  on  his  return  to 
the  settlements.  In  the  course  of  a  few  days  he 
showed  symptoms  of  hydrophobia,  and  became 
nvving  towards  night.  At  len<rth,  breaking  away 
from  his  companions,  he  rushed  into  a  thicket 
of  willows,  where  they  left  liim  to  Lis  fate  1 


[n  In- 
lower 

ani- 
lafter- 

Lo-nred 


I.    t 


i 


I! 


n 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Schemes  of  Captain  Ponneville.  —  The  Gr<»at  Salt  Lake. '- 
Expedition  to  explore  it. —  ['reparations  for  a  journey  to 
the  Bighorn. 

APTATN  BONNEVILLE  now  found 
himself  at  the  head  of  a  liardy,  well- 
senf=50Med,  and  well-appointed  company 
of  trappers,  all  benefited  by  at  least  one  year's 
experience  among  the  raountains,  and  capable  of 
protecting  themselves  from  Indian  wiles  and 
stratagems,  and  of  providing  for  their  subsistence 
wherever  game  was  to  be  found.  He  had,  ulso, 
an  excellent  troop  of  horses,  in  prime  condition, 
and  lit  for  hard  service.  He  determined,  there- 
fore, to  strike  out  into  some  of  the  bolder  parts 
of  his  scheme.  One  of  these  was  to  carry  his 
expeditions  into  some  of  the  unknown  tracts  of 
the  Far  West,  beyond  what  is  generally  termed 
the  buffalo  range.  This  would  have  something 
of  tlie  merit  and  charm  of  discovery,  so  de^r  to 
every  brave  and  adventurous  spirit.  Another 
favorite  project  was  to  establish  a  trading  post  on 
the  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  River,  near  the 
Multnomah  Valley,  and  to  endeavor  to  retrieve 
for  his  country  some  of  the  lost  trade  of  Astoria. 
The  f^i'st  of  the  above  mentioned  views  was, 
at  present,  uppermost  in  his  mind  —  the  explor- 


nig 
turt' 
ill"" 
niin< 
vagji 
«alt 
vxiai 
those 
rauirc 
Cw 
of  th 
ascen 
you  b 
itself 
ther,  i 
the    e 
attenti 
upon  ; 
serted 
Nearer 
is  stud( 
sheep  r 
tent  of 
l)eaks  b 
of  nierf 
summits 
among  t 
are  the 
large  tr, 
view  by 
some  fu 
vest  of 
auticipat( 


IS 


Lake.  — 
irney  to 


GRhAT  SALT  LAKE. 


221 


explor- 


ing of  unknown  rojnrionH.  Anionjnr  tlio  gnmd  fea- 
tures of  the  wilderness  about  which  lie  was  roam- 
ni«;,  one  had  made  a  vivid  impression  on  his 
mind,  and  Ixien  clothed  by  his  ima;L;ination  with 
vaijue  and  ideal  charms.  This  is  a  ijreat  lake  of 
salt  water,  hivini^  the  feet  of  the  mountains,  hul 
extendin<r  far  to  the  west-southwest,  into  one  of 
those  vast  and  elevated  plateaus  of  land,  wdiich 
rauire  hi«jrh  above  the  level  of  the  Pacific. 

Captain  15oiuieville  gives  a  striking  account 
of  the  lake  when  seen  from  the  land.  As  you 
ascend  the  mountains  about  its  shores,  says  he, 
you  behold  this  immense  body  of  water  spreading 
itself  before  you,  and  stretching  further  and  fur- 
ther, in  one  wide  and  far-reachhig  expanse,  until 
the  eye,  wearied  with  continued  and  strained 
attention,  rests  in  the  blue  dimness  of  distance, 
upon  lofty  ranges  of  mountains,  confidently  as- 
serted to  rise  from  the  bosom  of  the  waters. 
Nearer  to  you,  the  smooth  and  unruflled  surface 
is  studded  with  little  islands,  where  the  mountain 
sheep  roam  in  considerable  numbers.  What  ex- 
tent of  lowland  may  be  encompassed  by  the  high 
peaks  beyond,  must  remain  for  the  present  matter 
of  mere  conjecture  ;  though  from  the  form  of  the 
summits,  and  the  breaks  which  may  be  discovered 
among  them,  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  they 
are  the  sources  of  streams  calculated  to  water 
large  tracts,  which  are  probably  concealed  from 
view  by  the  rotundi/y  of  the  lake's  surface.  At 
some  future  day,  in  all  probability,  the  rich  har- 
vest of  beaver  fur  which  may  be  reasonably 
anticipated  in  such  a  spot,  will  temnt  adventurers 


!   , 


222 


BONNEVlLLeti  ADVENTUREa. 


\ 


lilll 


to  reduce  all  this  doubtful  region  to  the  palpable 
certainty  of  a  beaten  track.  At  present,  how- 
ever, destitute  of  the  means  of  making  boats,  the 
trapper  stands  upon  the  shore,  and  gazes  upon 
a  j)romised  land  which  his  feet  are  never  to  tread. 

Such  is  the  somewhat  fanciful  view  which 
Captain  Boimeville  gives  of  this  great  body  of 
water.  He  has  evidently  taken  part  of  his  ideas 
concerning  it  from  the  representations  of  others, 
who  have  somewhat  exaii^i!;e rated  its  features.  It 
is  reported  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  lonsf,  and  fiftv  miles  broad.  The  ranws  of 
mountain  peaks  which  Captain  Bonneville  speaks 
of,  as  rising  from  its  bosom,  are  probably  the 
summits  of  mountains  beyond  it,  which  may  be 
visible  at  a  vast  distance,  when  viewed  from  an 
eminence,  in  the  transparent  atmosphere  of  these 
lofty  regions.  Several  large  islands  certainly 
exist  in  the  lake  ;  one  of  which  is  said  to  be 
mountainous,  but  not  by  any  means  to  the  extent 
required  to  furnish  the  series  of  peaks  above 
mentioned. 

Captain  Sublette,  in  one  of  his  early  expe- 
ditions across  the  mountains,  is  said  to  hr.ve  sent 
four  men  in  a  skin  canoe,  to  explore  tlie  lake, 
who  professed  to  have  navigated  all  round  it ; 
but  to  have  suffered  excessively  from  thirst,  the 
water  of  the  lake  being  extremely  salt,  and  there 
b(Mng  no  fresh  streams  running  into  it. 

Captain  Bonneville  doubts  this  report,  or  that 
the  men  accomplished  the  circumnavigation,  be- 
cause, he  says,  the  lake  receives  several  large 
streams  from  the  mountains  which   bound  it  to 


ihe 

SW( 

tiie 

dur 

leav 

its  s 

T 

lake 

ville 

level 

trans 

allow 

/ire  a 

and  i 

wagoi 

passa< 

altitnc 

a  bodi 

is  cite 

Bonne 

much  i 

To 
its  seer 
captiiin 
one  in 
leading 
with 
streams 


S 


1  The  1; 
ICO,  the  la 
plateau,  a 
fides. 


IS  St 


neailj  one 


iible 

lOW- 

tlie 
I  poll 

f  of 
ideas 
hers, 
.     It 

fitly 

;es  of 

peaks 

y   the 

ay  be 

)m  an 
these 

tainly 
to  be 
xtent 
above 

expe- 
re  sent 

lake, 
ml  it; 
1st,  the 

there 

►r  that 
|n,  be- 
large 
it  to 


E-sEVATlON    OF  GREAT  SALT  LAKE.    223 


the  east.  In  tlie  spring,  when  the  streams  are 
swollen  by  rain  and  by  the  melting  of  the  snows, 
tlie  lake  rises  several  feet  above  its  ordinary  level ; 
during  the  summer,  it  gra<lual]y  subsides  again, 
leaving  a  sparkling  zone  of  the  finest  salt  upon 
its  si  lores. 

The  elevation  of  the  vast  plateau  on  which  this 
lake  is  situated,  is  estimated  by  Captain  Bonne- 
ville at  one  and  three  fourths  of  a  mile  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean.  The  admirable  purity  an() 
transparency  of  the  atmosphere  in  this  region^ 
allowing  objects  to  be  seen,  and  the  report  of 
lire  arms  to  be  heard,  at  an  astonishing  distance  j 
and  its  extreme  dryness,  causing  the  wheels  of 
wagons  to  fall  in  pieces,  as  instanced  in  former 
passages  of  this  work,  are  proofs  of  the  great 
altitude  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  plains.  That 
a  body  of  salt  water  should  exist  at  such  a  height, 
is  cited  as  a  singular  phenomenon  by  Captain 
Bonneville,  though  the  salt  lake  of  Mexico  is  not 
much  inferior  in  elevation.  ^ 

To  have  this  lake  properly  explored,  and  all 
its  secrets  revealed,  was  the  grand  scheme  of  the 
captiiin  for  the  present  year ;  and  while  it  was 
one  in  which  his  imaghiation  evidently  took  a 
leading  part,  lie  believed  it  would  be  attende(? 
with  great  profit,  from  the  numerous  beaver 
streams  with  which  the  lake  must  be  fringed. 

1  The  lake  of  Tezcuco,  which  surrounds  the  city  of  Mex- 
ico, the  largest  and  lowest  y)^  the  five  lakes  on  the  Mexican 
plateau,  and  one  of  the  most  impregnated  with  saline  par- 
ticles, is  seven  thousand  four  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet,  ol 
nearly  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


f 

ill 


i  11 


'ill 


224 


B  ONNE  VJLL£? S  AD  VEN TURKS. 


This  momentous  undertaking  he  confided  to  hia 
lieutenant,  Mr.  Walker,  in  whose  experience  and 
ability  he  liad  great  confidence.  He  instnicted 
him  to  keep  along  the  shores  of  the  lake,  and  trap 
in  all  the  streams  on  liis  route  ;  also  to  keep  a 
journal,  and  minutely  to  record  the  events  of  his 
journey,  and  everything  curious  or  interesting, 
making  maps  or  charts  of  his  route,  and  of  the 
surrounding  country. 

No  pains  nor  expense  were  spared  in  fitting 
out  the  party  of  forty  men,  which  he  was  to 
command.  They  had  complete  supplies  for  a 
year,  and  were  to  meet  Captain  Bonneville  in  the 
ensuing  summer,  in  the  valley  of  Bear  River,  the 
largest  tributary  of  the  Salt  Lake,  which  was  to 
be  his  point  of  general  rendezvous. 

The  next  care  of  Captain  Bonneville,  was  to 
arrange  for  the  safe  transportation  of  the  peltries 
which  he  had  collected,  to  the  Atlantic  States. 
Mr.  Robert  Campbell,  the  partner  of  Sublette, 
was  at  this  time  in  the  rendez.vous  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Fur  Company,  having  brought  up  their 
supplies.  He  was  about  to  set  off  on  his  return, 
with  the  peltries  collected  during  the  year,  and 
intended  to  proceed  through  the  Crow  country, 
to  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Bighorn  River, 
and  to  descend  in  l)oats  down  that  river,  the  Mis- 
souri, and  the  Yellowstone,  to  St.  Louis. 

Captain  Bonneville  determined  to  forward  his 
peltries  by  the  same  route,  under  the  especial  care 
of  Mr.  Cerrc.  By  way  of  escort,  he  would  ac- 
company Cerre  to  the  point  of  embarkation,  and 
then  make  an  autumnal  hunt  in  the  Crow  country. 


rbo 

Cr 

An 


» 

:    I 
f 


>u 


CHAPTER   XXII. 


The  Crow  country.  —  A  Crow  paradise.  —  Habits  of  the 
Crows.  —  Anecdotes  of  Rose,  the  renegade  white  man —  hif 
fights  with  the  Blackfeet  —  liis  elevation  —  his  death.  — 
Arapooish,  the  Crow  chief —  his  eagle.  —  Adventure  of 
Robert  Campbell.  —  Honor  among  Crows. 


EFORE  we  accompany  Captain  Bonne- 
ville into  the  Crow  country,  we  will  im- 
^31  part  a  few  facts  about  this  wild  re- 
gion, and  the  wild  people  who  inhabit  it.  We 
are  not  aware  of  the  precise  boundaries,  if  there 
are  any,  of  the  country  claimed  by  the  Crows  ; 
it  appears  to  extend  from  the  Black  Hills 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  including  a  part  of 
their  lofty  ranges,  and  embracing  many  of  the 
plains  and  valleys  watered  by  the  Wind  River, 
the  Yellowstone,  the  Powder  River,  the  Little 
Missouri,  and  the  Nebraska.  The  country  va- 
ries in  soil  and  climate ;  there  are  vast  plains 
of  sand  and  clay,  studded  with  large  red  sand- 
hills ;  other  parts  are  mountainous  and  pictur- 
esque ;  it  possesses  warm  springs,  and  coal  mines, 
and  abounds  with  game. 

But  let  us  give  the  account  of  the  country  as 
rendered  by  Arapooish,  a  Crow  chief,  to  Mr. 
Robert  Campbell,  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur 

Gnnpany. 

15 


■m\ 


226 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENT UHES. 


"  The  Crow  country,"  said  he,  "  is  a  good 
country.  The  Great  Spirit  has  put  it  exactly  in 
the  right  place  ;  while  you  are  in  it  you  faie 
well ;  whenever  you  go  out  of  it,  whichever  way 
you  travel,  you  fare  worse. 

"  If  you  go  to  the  south,  you  have  to  wander 
over  great  barren  plains ;  the  water  is  warm  and 
bad,  and  you  meet  the  fever  and  ague. 

"To  the  north  it  is  cold  ;  the  winters  are  lonsr 
and  bitter,  with  no  grass  ;  you  cannot  keep  horses 
there,  but  must  travel  with  dogs.  What  is  a 
country  without  horses  ? 

"  On  the  Columbia  they  are  poor  and  dirty, 
paddle  about  in  canoes,  and  eat  fish.  Their  teeth 
are  worn  out ;  they  are  always  taking  fish-bones 
out  of  their  mouths.     Fish  is  poor  food. 

"  To  tiie  east,  they  dwell  in  villages  ;  they 
live  well ;  but  they  diink  the  muddy  water  of 
the  Missouri  —  that  is  bad.  A  Crow's  dog 
would  not  drink  such  water. 

"About  the  forks  of  the  Missouri  is  a  fine 
country ;  good  watei  ;  good  grass ;  plenty  of 
buffalo.  In  summer,  it  is  almost  as  good  as 
the  Crow  country  ;  but  in  winter  it  is  cold  ;  the 
grass  is  gone  ;  and  there  is  no  salt  weed  for  the 
horses. 

"The  Crow  country  is  exactly  in  the  right 
place.  It  has  snowy  mountains  and  sunny 
plains  ;  all  kinds  of  climates  and  good  things  for 
every  season.  When  the  summer  heats  scorch 
the  prairies,  you  can  draw  up  under  the  moun- 
tains, where  the  air  is  sweet  and  cool,  the  grass 
fresh,  and  the  bright  streams  come  tumbling  out 


In 


BOSE,    THE   OUTLAWS 


227 


dog 


fine 

Ly    of 
)(1     US 

the 
H'  tlie 

right 
unny 
for 
corch 
noun- 


gs 


out 


of  the  snow-banks.  There  you  Cfin  hunt  the 
elk,  the  deer,  and  the  anteh)[)e,  when  tlieir  skina 
are  lit  for  dresising  ;  there  you  will  find  plenty  of 
white  bears  and  mountain  sheep. 

"  In  the  autumn,  wiien  your  horses  are  fiit  and 
strong  from  the  mountaiii  pastures,  you  can  go 
down  into  the  plains  and  hunt  the  buffalo,  or  trap 
beaver  on  the  streams.  And  when  winter  comes 
on,  you  can  take  shelter  in  the  woody  bottoms 
along  the  rivers ;  there  you  will  find  buffalo 
meat  for  yourselves,  and  cotton-wood  bark  for  your 
horses :  or  you  may  winter  in  tlie  Wind  River 
Valley,  where  there  is  saltweed  in  abundance. 

"The  Qj  country  is  exactly  in  tlie  right 
place.  Eveiything  good  is  to  be  found  there. 
There  is  no  country  like  the  Crow  country." 

Such  is  the  eulogiuni  on  his  country  by  Ara- 
pooish. 

We  have  had  repeated  occasions  to  speak  of 
the  restless  and  predatory  habits  of  the  Crows. 
They  can  muster  fifteen  hundred  fighting  men  ; 
but  their  incessant  wars  with  the  Blackfeet,  and 
their  vagabond,  predatory  habits^  are  gradually 
wearing  them  out. 

In  a  recent  work,  we  related  the  circumstance 
of  a  white  man  named  Rose,  an  outlaw,  and  a 
designing  vagabond,  who  acted  as  guide  and  in- 
terpreter to  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  on  their 
journey  across  the  mountains  to  Astoria,  v/ho 
came  near  betraying  them  into  the  hands  of  the 
Crows,  and  who  remained  among  the  tribe,  mar- 
rying one  of  their  women,  and  adopting  theii 
u>n«ienial  habits.^      A  tew  anecdotes  of  the  sub 


■I! 


1  See  Astoria. 


n 


228 


B  ONNE  VILLE"  S  A  I)  YEN  T  URES. 


sequent  fortunes  of  that  renegade  may  not  e 
uninteresting,  especially  as  tliey  are  connected 
witii   the   fbrfanes  of  the   tribe. 

Rose  was  powerful  in  frame  and  fearless  iu 
spirit ;  and  soon  by  his  daring  deeds  took  his 
rank  among  the  first  braves  of  the  tribe.  He 
aspired  to  command,  and  knew  it  was  only  to  be 
attained  by  desperate  exploits.  He  distinguished 
himself  in  repeated  actions  with  the  Blackfeet. 
On  one  occasion,  a  band  of  those  savages  had 
fortified  themselves  within  a  breastwork,  and 
could  not  be  harmed.  Rose  proposed  to  storm 
the  work.  "  Who  will  take  the  lead  ?  "  was  the 
demand.  "  I !  "  cried  he  ;  and  putting  himself  at 
tlieir  head,  rushed  forward.  The  first  Blackfoot 
that  opposed  him  he  shot  down  with  his  rifle,  and, 
snatching  up  the  war-club  of  his  victim,  killed 
four  others  within  the  fort.  The  victory  was 
complete,  and  Rose  returned  to  the  Crow  village 
covered  with  glory,  and  bearing  five  Blackfoot 
scalps,  to  be  erected  as  a  trophy  before  his  lodge. 
From  this  time,  he  was  known  among  the  Crows 
by  the  name  of  Che-ku-kaats,  or  "  the  man  who 
killed  five."  He  became  chief  of  the  village,  or 
rather  band,  and  for  a  time  was  the  popular  idol. 
His  popularity  soon  awakened  envy  among  the 
native  braves ;  he  was  a  stranger,  an  intruder,  a 
white  man.  A  party  seceded  from  his  command. 
Feuds  and  civil  wars  succeeded  that  lasted  for 
two  or  three  years,  until  Rose,  having  contrived 
to  set  his  adopted  brethren  by  the  ears,  left  them, 
and  went  down  the  Missouri  in  1823.  Here  he 
fell  iu  with  one  of  the  earliest  trapping  expedi- 


CONFERENCE    WITH   Tnr^   „ 

yvfTH  THE  CROWS.      2^ 

iJoiis  sent  by  Geripml    a-.it 

tains.     I,   wi  er,:'  t'; ^""r  "«^  ■"-»- 

-'■Sublette.  Co":  LisrV'''^^'''''-'^- 

«n,l  .nterpreter.  Vfu.n  l.e  2  ,  '  "'"  "'  ^'"'^"^ 
Crow.,,  |,e  was  exceedi,,.!  ^  ''""  "'"""='  "'e 
goods;    making   pS  'f  ^!r'~"'  ^^i"'  ""■-> 

'i'ln's,  doub  less  bo^    .     '"°''-""'<le<l  chief. 
^n  that'  expe  'S  S:;  ,'''J7';«  "-  Populan.y. 
robbe,!  of  their  ho  se      „  n  "'  ^''^f^'Hcl:   vve.e 

the  place  where  the  tbCt^fc    f''""   ^""«^'- 
tl'e  name  of  Horse  Creek  ^w      ^^'"^  '"■"  >>««'■« 
«'''efl«er  the  horses  wJtp  ,.  i      T  ""'  '"('»««^<i 
«'%ation  and  ma  aleLTnt  of  R   ""■""='"   "^  "'- 
P'^bablo,  for   suchCs    t,e         IV  "  ''''  "°'  ■-"- 
tended  to  practice  ol     f        ''"''"'^  '"«  h»d  in- 
M.-.  Hunt  a'nd  hrp,:,;.  °"""'"'  '°"«* 

Tlie  last  anecdote  vve  havB  „p  r.  . 
Indian  trader,  ^y^  General  ^T"  ''  ''"'"  "" 
i'-s  military  expedition  nptreMif  "•"'."  """^^ 
to  protect  the  fur  trl,  1  i  ,^'^"">-'.  '"  1825, 
«-'-th  the  Crow  natio  a!'  r  M^  "  «""--e"eo 
Indian  dignitar7and  Cro  '^  ^^'^  "S^-'ed  as 
military  were   stntt     .  '"'eipreter.      The 

fro.  tife  se:;:  oir  r.i-:\r  t  s:  f '«- 

f  al  and  the  chiefs  were  smok     '     ^'''*  ""*  ««"'• 
"'S    speeclies,    the   offit  "  P'P^"  ""d  mak. 

f-li-di;,  left  the  t  oop"Zi  d"'"""'"'    «"    -- 
of  ceremonial.    Son^e  of  T     ^^'\  ""^^  "'«  «ce"6 
P-ceivins  this,  sZl  !  ,     .^^ ,  '""■'"^  C^^' 
unobserved,  contrived  loli  1    ''*  ''"'"P'  ««', 
t'-e  flekl-pieces  with  d^t    V    n  •"";''-'">'««  of 
— andin,  oecurre^''^  th^^^^  «  ^^ 


- 

:    ..'}[' 

1 

ll 

J 

^  't 

Ml 


230 


B 0N^  E YULE'S  A D  VENTURES. 


m\ 


i\\ 


of  tlie  Indians,  knowing  the  cannon  to  be  useleM, 
became  insolent.  A  tumult  arose.  In  the  con- 
fusion, Colonel  O'Fallen  snapped  a  pistol  in  the 
face  of  a  brave,  and  knocked  him  down  with  the 
butt  end.  The  Crows  were  ail  in  a  fury.  A 
chance-medley  fight  was  on  the  point  of  taking 
place,  when  Rose,  his  natural  sympathies  as  a 
white  man  suddenly  recurring,  broke  the  stock 
of  his  fusee  over  the  head  of  a  Crow  warrior, 
and  laid  so  vigorously  about  him  with  the  barrel, 
that  he  soon  put  the  whole  throng  to  flight. 
Luckily,  as  no  lives  had  been  lost,  this  sturdy 
ribroasting  calmed  the  fury  of  the  Crows,  and 
the  tumult  ended  without  serious  consequences. 

What  was  the  ultimate  fate  of  this  vagabond 
hero  is  not  distinctly  known.  Some  report  him 
to  have  fallen  a  victim  to  disease,  brought  on  by 
his  licentious  life ;  others  assert  that  he  was  mur- 
dered in  a  feud  among  the  Crows.  After  all,  his 
residence  among  these  savages,  and  the  influence 
he  acquired  over  them,  had,  for  a  time,  some  ben- 
eficial effects.  He  is  said,  not  merely  to  have 
rendered  them  more  formidable  to  the  Blackfeet, 
but  to  have  opened  their  eyes  to  the  policy  of 
cultivating  the  friendship  of  the  white  men. 

After  Rose's  death,  his  policy  continued  to  be 
cultivated,  with  indifferent  success,  by  Arapooish, 
the  chief  already  mentioned,  who  had  been  his 
great  friend,  and  whose  character  he  had  contrib- 
uted to  develop.  This  sagacious  chief  endeav- 
ored, on  every  occasion,  to  restrain  the  predatory 
propensities  of  his  tribe  when  directed  against 
the  while  men.    "  If  we  keep  friends  with  them," 


,M 


CAHPREU.  BURIES  FURS. 


231 

feet,  and  can  rule    til  ^"'"^  ""^  "'"«k- 

P'-etendedtobea.,.i'  ™?';:''""'^''  ^'■•''P"o'«'» 
"«'-  a,„„„.  the  i:.,  ,,  ™  JH"  ."""'  ••  "  "^  «•■"- 
priest,  doctor,  prophef   an7  '      compound  of 

"''»"t  with  I,  ,'„  a    ,1  1    T"^"™'-     "«  '«'-™'l 
"••  familiar.      WithtT!  T  "  "■'  ^"'  "  '"'"^''^'"<^ " 

-ko'l  that  this  wa  II  ch  ."."""'  '"  '''=''"<"^'- 
was  necessary,  ,«  lif  "''"^''"!""^"'  ••  but  said  it 
among  his  people   ^  "  '""='"  ""''  ""'-■ence 

-f^ffht^s?:;/"'"'^''''"'-''- 

fappincr  exne,i;  Tn,  I  '"""^«  "^  ""e  of  his 

of.  Ara^ooiXt  ":  ZT-:T  I"/"^  -'"'^^^ 

eh-eftain.     He  ,„d  eoirClj "  '"'''*'   "'^  "'« 

fi"-^.  and,  fearful  of  1;^.  „*>     ?'  r""'"^  "^ 

•"-'  a  part  i„  the  lod.e  of  !h^    h  T''^'  '^''"'''""^ 

.■^"■•'•ed  m  a  cache.     One  „;  l''f '  '"^  ■•-'  '"« 

'"">   tlie  lodge   with   a  1  7    V     "P""'-'''  «""e 

'"■-"self  fo.-  a  time  whl.    ?  ^  .'"■''^"'  "'"'  ''^ated 

;e..,-..,  turning'^  CriVT^tf;,-''-     Ae 

complete  frankness      W  '  /^°^</he  importance  of 

flas  been  robbed      cJa^'        ""  >""""  cache 
have  been  takenfrom  U.»"'   '''  ''°"  '»->'  ^l''- 


J(j 


y'i 


232 


BONNE  VILLUS  AD  VENTURES 


Campbell  examined  the  cache,  and  estimated 
his  loss  to  be  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  beaver 
pkins. 

Arapooish  now  summoned  a  meeting  of  the 
villaj^e.  He  bitterly  reproached  his  people  for 
robbing  a  stranger  who  had  confided  to  their 
honor  ;  and  commanded  that  whoever  had  taken 
the  skins,  should  bring  them  back ;  declaring 
that,  as  Campbell  was  his  guest  and  inmate  of 
his  lodge,  he  would  not  eat  nor  drink  until  every 
skin  was  restored  to  him. 

The  meeting  broke  up,  and  every  one  dis- 
persed. Arapooish  now  charged  Campbell  to 
give  neither  reward  nor  thanks  to  any  one  who 
Bhould  bring  in  the  beaver  skins,  but  to  keep 
count  as  they  were  delivered. 

In  a  little  while,  the  skins  began  to  make  their 
appearance,  a  few  at  a  time;  they  were  laid 
down  in  the  lodge,  and  those  who  brought  them 
departed  without  saying  a  word.  The  day  passed 
away.  Arapooish  sat  in  one  corner  of  his  lodge, 
wrapped  up  in  his  robe,  scarcely  moving  a  mus- 
cle of  his  countenance.  When  night  arrived,  he 
demanded  if  all  the  skins  had  been  brought  in. 
Above  a  hundred  had  been  given  up,  and  Camp- 
bell .  expressed  himself  contented.  Not  so  the 
Crow  chieftain.  He  fasted  all  that  night,  nor 
tasted  a  drop  of  water.  In  the  morning,  some 
more  skins  were  brought  in,  and  continued  to 
come,  one  and  two  at  a  time,  throughout  the  day ; 
until  but  a  few  were  wanting  to  make  the  num- 
ber complete.  Campbell  was  now  anxious  to  put 
an  end  to  this  fasting  of  the  old  chief,  and  again 


nONKSTY  OF  AHAPOOISri 


233 


I  ( 


declared  tliat  he  was  perfectly  satisfied.  Arapooish 
demanded  what  number  of  .skins  wei*e  yet  want- 
ing. On  being  told,  lie  winspcred  to  some  of  his 
people,  who  disappeared.  After  a  time  the  niini- 
l)er  were  brouglit  in,  though  it  was  evideht  they 
were  not  any  of  the  skins  that  had  been  stolen, 
but  others  gleaned  in  the  village. 

"  Is  all  right  now  ?  "  demanded  Arapooish. 

"  All  is  right,"  replied  Campbell. 

"  Good  !   Now  bring  me  meat  and  drink  !  " 

When  they  were  alone  together,  Arapooish 
had  a  conversiciion  with  his  guest. 

"  When  you  come  another  time  among  the 
Crows,"  said  he,  "  don't  liide  your  goods  :  trust 
to  them  and  they  will  not  wrong  you.  Put  your 
goods  in  the  lodge  of  a  chief,  and  they  are  sa- 
cred ;  hide  them  in  a  cache,  and  any  one  who 
finds  will  steal  them.  My  people  have  now  given 
up  your  goods  for  my  sake  ;  but  there  are  some 
foolish  young  men  in  the  village,  vvho  may  bo 
disposed  to  be  troublesome.  Don't  linger,  there- 
fore, but  pack  your  horses  and  be  off." 

Campbell  took  his  advice,  and  made  his  way 
safely  oi:t  of  the  Crow  country.  He  has  ever 
since  maintained,  that  the  Crows  are  not  so  black 
as  they  are  painted.  "Trust  to  their  honor," 
says  he,  "  and  you  are  safe :  trust  to  their  hon- 
esty, and  they  will  steal  the  hair  off  of  your 
head." 

Having  given  these  few  preliminary  particu- 
lars, we  will  resume  the  course  of  our  narrativa 


CITAPTER  XXIII. 


'W. 


Depnrttirc  from  firpon  IJiver  Valloy. —  Popo  Apio  — lt«  course 

—  the  rivors  into  which  it  runs. —  Scenery  of  the  liluffs.  — 
Tlie  great  'I'nr  Spriiif;.  —  Volcanic  tracts  in  the  Crow  coun- 
try. —  nurning  mountain  of  I'owdcM'  IJivcr.  —  Sulphur 
springs.  —  Hidden  tires.  —  C'olter's  Hell.  —  Wind  Hiver.  — 
('ampbell's  party. —  Kit/patrick  and  his  trappers.  —  Cap- 
tain   Stewart,  an   amateur   traveller.  —  Nathaniel  Wyeth 

—  anecdotes  of  his  expedition  to  the  Far  West.  —  Disaster 
of  Camplx-lTs  party.  —  A  union  of  bands.  —  The  IJad  Pass. 

—  The  rapids.  —  r)eparture  of  Kitzj)atnck.  —  Kmbarkation 
of  peltries,  —  Wyeth  and  his  bull  boat.  —  Adventin-es  of 
Captain  IJounevillo  in  the  IJighorn  Mountains.  —  Adven- 
tures in  the  plain.  —  Traces  of  Indian^  — Travelling  pre- 
cautions.—  Dan^jers  of  n»aking  a  smoke.  —  The  reudez- 
vous. 


N  the  25tli  of  July,  Captain  Boniievillo 
struck  Iiis  tents,  and  set  out  on  his  route 
for  t]i(i  liiohoni,  at  tlie  lioad  of  a  party 
of  iifty-six  men,  indndin<^  tliose  who  were  to 
embark  with  Cerre.  Crossino;  the  Green  River 
Valley,  he  proceeded  along  the  south  point  of  the 
"Whid  River  range  of  mountains,  and  soon  fell 
upon  the  track  of  Mr.  Robert  Campbell's  party, 
which  had  preceded  him  by  a  day.  This  he 
pursued,  until  he  perceived  that  it  led  down  the 
banks  of  the  Sweet  Water  to  the  southeast. 
As  this  was  different  from  Iris  proposed  direction. 


rOPO  AGIE. 


235 


n\\ 


he  loft  it ;  and  turning  to  the  northeast,  soon 
came  u|)on  tlio  waters  of  the  Popo  Agie.  This 
stream  takes  its  rise  in  the  Wind  River  Moun- 
tains. Its  name,  like  most  Indian  names,  is 
charaetcM'istic.  Popo^  in  the  Crow  hin<;na«;e, 
sii^nifyinu;  head  ;  and  yl///V?,  rivar.  It  is  tlie  liead 
of  a  lonii'  river,  (  xtiMidiiiu  from  the  south  end  of 
tli(;  Wind  River  Mountains  in  a  nortlieast  (hree- 
tion,  until  it  falls  into  the  Yellowstone.  Its 
course  is  gen<M*ally  through  plains,  hut  is  twice 
crossed  hy  chains  of  mountains ;  the  fn-st  called 
the  Littlehorn,  the  second,  the  liighorn.  After 
it  has  forced  its  way  through  the  first  chain,  it 
is  called  the  Horn  River ;  after  the  second 
chain,  it  is  called  the  Bighorn  River.  Its  i)assa;,.» 
through  this  last  'liain  is  •  rough  and  violent; 
making  re[)eated  Tails,  and  rushing  down  long 
and  furious  rapids,  whi<;h  threat(Mied  destruction 
to  the  navigator ;  though  a  hardy  trapper  is  said 
to  have  shot  down  them  in  a  canoe.  At  the 
foot  of  these  ra[)ids,  is  the  liead  of  navigation  ; 
where  it  was  the  intention  of  the  parties  to  con- 
struct hoats,  and  emhark. 

Proceeding  down  along  tlie  Popo  A.gie,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  came  ai;ain  in  full  view  of  the 
"  Bluffs,"  as  they  are  Ciilled,  extending  from  the 
base  of  the  Wind  River  JMountains  far  away  to 
the  east,  and  presenting  to  the  eye  a  confusion 
of  hills  and  cliffs  of  red  sandstone,  some  peaked 
vid  angular,  some  round,  some  broken  mto  crags 
and  precipices,  and  piled  up  in  fantastic  masses ; 
but  all  naked  and  sterile.  There  appeared  to  be 
no  soil  favorable  to  vegetiition,  nothing  but  coarse 


286 


B  ONNE  VILLE*8  AD  VENTURES. 


mm. 


fmp^f 


l] 

■ 

■1!' 

1 

■ 

• 

a 

1 

m 

1 

11 

im- 

ft    .itBi, 

>  abTT-  « 

^M 

^ 

gravel  ;  yet,  over  all  this  isolated,  barren  land- 
scape, were  diffused  such  atmospherical  tints  and 
hues,  as  to  blend  the  whole  into  harmony  and 
beauty. 

In  this  neighboi'hood,  the  captain  made  search 
for  the  "  Great  Tar  Spring,"  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  mountains;  the  medicinal  properties  of 
which,  he  h^d  heard  extravagantly  lauded  by  the 
trappers.  After  a  toilsome  search,  he  found  it 
at  the  foot  of  a  sand-bluff,  a  little  to  the  east  of 
the  Wind  River  Mountains  ;  where  it  exuded  in 
a  small  stream  of  the  color  and  consistency  of 
tar.  The  men  immediately  hastened  to  collect 
a  quantilv  of  it  to  use  as  an  ointment  for  the 
galled  backs  of  their  horses,  and  as  a  balsam  for 
their  own  pains  and-  aches.  From  the  descrip- 
tion given  of  it,  it  is  evidently  the  bituminous  oil, 
c;dled  petroleum  or  naphtha,  which  forms  a  prin- 
cipal ingredient  in  the  potent  medicine  called 
British  Oil.  ^t  is  found  in  various  parts  of 
Europe  ^nd  Asia,  in  several  of  the  West  India 
islands,  aid  in  „ome  places  of  the  United  States. 
In  the  Sbiio  of  Nev  York,  it  is  called  Seneca 
Oil,  from  being  found  near  the  Seneca  Lake. 

The  Crow  country  has  other  natural  curiosi- 
ties, which  are  held  in  superstitious  awe  by  the 
Indians,  and  considered  great  marvels  by  the 
trappers.  Such  is  the  burning  mountiiin,  on 
Powder  River,  abounding  with  anthi*acite  coal. 
Here  the  earth  is  hot  and  cracked ;  in  many 
places  emitting  smoke  and  sulphurous  vapors,  ;i3 
if  covering  concealed  fires.  A  volcanic  tract  of 
similar  character  is  found  on  Stuiking  River,  one 


m 


MEETING    WITH  CAMPBELL, 


237 


jscnp- 
iis  oil, 
prill- 
c:illed 
Ls  of 
India 
»tates. 
jeiieca 


of  the  tributaries  of  the  Bigliorn,  whicli  takes 
its  unhappy  name  from  the  odor  derived  from 
sulphurous  springs  and  streams.  Tliis  last  men- 
tioned place  was  first  discovered  by  Colter,  a 
hunter  belonging  to  Lewis  and  Clarke's  explor- 
ing party,  who  came  upon  it  in  the  course  of  his 
lonely  wanderings,  and  gave  such  an  account  of 
its  gloomy  terrors,  its  hidden  fires,  smoking  pits, 
noxiou'="  streams,  and  the  all-pervading  "  smell 
of  brimstone,"  that  it  received,  and  has  ever  since 
retained  among  trappers,  the  name  of  "  Colter's 
Hell!" 

Resuming  his  descent  along  the  left  br  .Iw  of 
the  Popo  Agie  Captain  Bonneville  soon  reached 
the  plains  ;  where  he  found  several  large  streams 
entering  from  the  west.  Among  these  was  AVind 
lliver,  which  gives  its  name  to  the  mountains 
among  which  it  takes  its  rise.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  important  streams  of  the  Crow  country. 
The  river  being  much  swollen,  Ca])tain  Bonne- 
ville halted  at  its  mouth,  and  sent  out  scouts  to 
look  for  a  fording  place.  While  thus  encamped, 
he  beheld  in  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  a  long 
line  of  horsemen  descending  the  slope  of  the  hills 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Popo  Agie.  His 
first  idea  was,  that  they  were  Indians ;  he  soon 
discovered,  however,  that  they  were  white  men, 
and,  by  the  long  line  of  pack-horses,  ascertahied 
them  to  be  the  convoy  of  Campbell,  which,  hav- 
ing descended  the  Sweet  Water,  was  now  on  its 
way  to  the  Horn  River. 

The  two  parties  came  together  two  or  three 
days    afterwards,  on    the    4th    of  August,  after 


i 


t) 


I!  ■  < 


238 


B ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


m 


>ii^ 


II 


\M 


■ 
,     i 

1 

luivliig  piisscfl  tlirough  the  gap  of  tlie  Liltleliom 
]\IountMiu.  Ill  company  with  CaiiiphuH's  con- 
voy, was  a  tra[>ping  J)arty  of  the  Rocky  iMouii- 
tain  Coinpany,  Iieaded  by  Fitzpatrick ;  who, 
after  Cami)l)eirs  embarkation  on  the  Bigliorn, 
was  to  take  cliarge  of  all  the  horses,  and  pro- 
ceed on  a  tra}v|)ing  campaign.  There  were, 
moreover,  two  chance  companions  in  the  rival 
camp.  One  was  Captain  Stewart,  of  tlie  British 
army,  a  gentleman  of  noble  connections,  who 
was  amusing  himself  by  a  wandering  tour  in  the 
Far  West ;  in  the  course  of  which,  he  htid  lived 
hi  hunter's  style ;  accompanying  A'arious  bands 
of  traders,  trappers,  and  Indians ;  and  manifest- 
ing that  relish  for  the  wilderness  that  belongs  to 
men  of  game  spirit. 

The  other  casual  inmate  of  Mr.  Campbell's 
camp  was  Mr.  Nathaniel  Wyeth  ;  the  self-same 
leader  of  the  band  of  New  Eno-land  salmon  fish- 
ers,  with  whom  we  parted  company  in  the  valley 
of  Pierre's  Hole,  after  the  battle  with  the  Black- 
feet.  A  few  days  after  that  affair,  he  jigain  set 
out  from  the  rendezvous  in  company  with  Miltou 
Sublette  and  liis  brigade  of  trappers.  On  his 
mnrch,  he  visited  the  battle  ground,  and  pene- 
trated to  the  deserted  fort  of  the  Blackfeet  in 
the  midst  of  the  wood.  It  was  a  dismal  scene. 
The  fort  was  strewed  with  the  mouldering  bodies 
of  the  slain  ;  while  vultures  soared  aloft,  or  sat 
brooding  on  the  trees  around  ;  and  Indian  doga 
howled  about  the  place,  as  if  bewailing  the  death 
of  their  masters.  Wyeth  travelled  for  a  consid- 
able  distance  to  the  southwest,  iii  company    with 


MR.   WYETII  AND  HIS  BAND. 


239 


IMilto!!  Sublette,  when  they  separated ;  and  the 
former,  witli  eleven  men,  the  remnant  of  his 
band,  pushed  on  for  Snake  River  ;  kept  down  the 
course  of  that  eventful  stream ;  traversed  tlio 
Blue  jMountains,  trap})ing  beaver  occasionally  by 
the  way,  and  finally,  after  hardships  of  all  kinds, 
arriv^ed,  on  the  29th  of  October,  at  Vancouver, 
on  the  Columbia,  the  main  factory  of  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company. 

He  experienced  hospitable  treatment  at  the 
hands  of  the  agents  of  that  company ;  but  his 
men,  heartily  tired  of  wandering  in  the  wilder- 
ness, or  tempted  by  other  pros})ects,  refused,  for 
the  most  part,  to  continue  any  longer  in  his 
service.  Some  set  off  for  the  Sandwich  Islands  ; 
some  entered  into  other  employ.  Wyeth  found, 
too,  that  a  great  part  of  the  goods  he  had 
brouijht  with  him  were  unfitted  for  the  Indian 
trade;  in  a  word,  his  expedition,  undertiiken 
entirely  on  his  own  resources,  proved  a  failure. 
He  lost  everything  invested  in  it,  but  his  hopes. 
These  were  as  strong  as  ever.  He  took  note  of 
everything,  therefore,  that  could  be  of  service  to 
him  in  the  further  prosecution  of  his  project ;  col- 
lected all  the  information  within  his  reach,  and 
then  set  off,  accompanied  by  merely  two  men, 
on  his  return  journey  across  the  contment 
He  had  got  thus  far  "  by  hook  and  by  crook, 
a  mode  in  which  a  New  England  man  can  make 
his  way  all  over  the  world,  and  tluough  all  kmds 
of  diiriculties,  and  was  now  bound  for  Boston  ; 
in  full  confidence  of  being  able  to  form  a  com- 
pany for  the  salmon  fishery  and  fur  trade  ol  the 
Columbia. 


fit 

m 

m 


240 


S ONNE  YULE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


The  party  of  Mr.  Campbell  had  met  with  a 
disaster  in  the  course  of  their  route  from  the 
Sweet  Water.  Three  or  four  of  the  men,  who 
were  reconnoitring  tlie  country  in  the  advance 
of  the  main  body,  were  visited  one  night  in  their 
camp,  by  fifteen  or  twenty  Shoshonies.  Consid- 
ering this  tribe  as  perfectly  friendly,  they  received 
them  in  the  most  cordial  and  confiding  manner. 
In  the  course  of  the  night,  the  man  on  guard 
near  the  horses  fell  sound  asleep ;  pon  which  a 
Shoshonie  shot  him  in  the  head,  and  nearly  killed 
liim.  The  savages  then  made  off  with  the  horses, 
leaving  the  rest  of  the  party  to  find  their  way  to 
the  main  body  on  foot. 

The  rival  companies  of  Captain  Bonneville  and 
Mr.  Campbell,  thus  fortuitously  brought  together, 
now  prosecuted  their  journey  in  great  good  fel- 
lowship ;  forming  a  joint  camp  of  about  a  hun- 
dred men.  The  captain,  however,  began  to 
entertain  doubts  that  Fitzpatrick  and  his  trap- 
pers, who  kept  profound  silence  as  to  their  future 
movements,  intended  to  hunt  the  same  grounds 
which  he  had  selected  for  his  autumnal  campaign ; 
which  lay  to  the  west  of  the  Horn  River,  on  its 
tributary  streams.  Li  the  course  of  his  march, 
therefore,  he  secretly  detached  a  small  party  of 
trappers,  to  make  their  way  to  those  hunting 
grounds,  while  he  continued  on  with  the  main 
bod^  ;  appointing  a  rendezvous,  at  the  next  full 
moon,  about  the  28th  of  August,  at  a  place  called 
the  Medicine  Lodge. 

On  reaching  the  second  chain,  called  the  Big- 
born  Mountains,  where  the  river  forced  its  im- 


W' 


I! 


•■w>inei¥H"^-g^  t 


■^-<*>1 


\l 


EMBARK] NG    ON  THE  BIGHORN. 


241 


m 


1  a 
the 

lUce 

heir 

isid- 

iived 

incr. 

ruard 

lich  a 

killed 

orses, 

ay  to 


|e  Big- 
tts  im- 


petuous way  through  a  precipitous  defile,  with 
cascades  and  rapids,  the  travellers  were  obliged 
to  leave  its  banks,  and  traverse  the  mountains 
by  a  rugged  and  frightliil  route,  emphaticiilly 
called  the  "  Bad  Pass."  Descending  the  oppo- 
site side,  they  again  made  for  the  river  banks  ; 
and  about  the  middle  of  August,  reached  the 
point  below  the  rapids,  where  the  river  becomes 
navigable  for  boats.  Here  Captain  Bonneville 
detached  a  second  party  of  trappers,  consisting 
of  ten  men,  to  seek  and  join  those  whom  he  had 
detached  while  on  the  route,  appointing  for  them 
the  same  rendezvous,  (at  the  Medicine  Lodge,)  on 
the  28th  of  August. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  construct  "  bull 
boats,"  as  they  are  technically  called ;  a  light, 
fragile  kind  of  bark,  characteristic  of  the  expe- 
dients and  inventions  of  the  wilderness ;  being 
formed  of  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  frames. 
They  are  sometimes,  also,  called  skin  boats. 
Wyeth  was  the  first  ready  ;  and,  with  his  usual 
promptness  and  hardihood,  launched  his  frail 
bark,  singly,  on  this  wild  and  hazardous  voyage, 
down  an  almost  interminable  succession  of  rivers, 
winding  through  countries  teeming  with  savage 
hordes.  Milton  Sublette,  his  former  fellow  tra- 
veller, and  his  companion  in  the  battle  scenes  of 
Pierre's  Hole,  took  passage  in  his  boat.  His 
crew  consisted  of  two  white  men,  and  two  Indi- 
ans. We  shall  hear  further  of  Wyeth,  and  his 
wild  voyage,  in  the  course  of  our  wanderings 
about  the  Far  West. 

The    remaining  parties   soon  completed  their 
16 


if 


1 


llfW 


\l: 


242  BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 

Beveral  armaments.  Tliat  of  Captain  Bonne- 
ville was  composed  of  three  bull  boats,  in  which 
he  embarked  all  his  peltries,  giving  them  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Cerre,  with  a  party  of  thirty-six 
jnen.  Mr.  Cam[)bell  took  command  of  his  own 
boats,  and  the  little  squadrons  were  soon  gliding 
down  the  brii'ht  current  of  the  Bisjhorn. 

The  secret  precautions  which  Captain  Bonne- 
ville had  taken,  to  throw  his  men  first  into  the 
trapping  ground  west  of  the  Bighorn,  were,  prob- 
ably, superfluous.  Jt  did  not  appear  that  Fitz- 
patrick  had  intended  to  hunt  in  that  direction. 
The  moment  Mr.  Campbell  and  his  men  em- 
barked with  the  peltries,  Fitzpatrick  took  charge 
of  all  the  horses,  amounting  to  above  a  hundred, 
and  struck  off  to  the  east,  to  trap  upon  Little- 
honi.  Powder,  and  Tongue  rivers.  He  was  ac- 
companied by  Ca})tain  Stewart,  who  was  desirous 
of  having  a  range  about  the  Crow  country.  Of 
the  adventures  they  met  with  in  that  region  of 
vagabonds  and  horse  stealers,  we  shall  have  some- 
thinu  to  relate  hereafter. 

Captain  Bonneville  being  now  left  to  prosecute 
his  trapping  campaign  without  rivalry,  set  out, 
on  the  17th  of  August,  for  the  rendezvous  at 
Medicine  Lodije.  He  had  but  four  men  remain- 
ing  with  him,  and  forty-six  horses  to  take  care 
of;  with  these  he  had  to  make  his  way  over 
mountain  and  plain,  through  a  marauding,  horse- 
stealing region,  full  of  peril  for  a  numerous  cav- 
alcade so  slightly  manned.  He  addressed  himself 
to  his  dilRcult  journey,  however,  with  his  usual 
alacrity  of  spirit. 


A 


TRACES    OF  INDIANS. 


213 


I    n 


ne- 

lich 
in 
-six 
3\vn 
ling 

nne- 

the 

^rob- 

Fitz- 

3tion. 
em- 
harge 
idred, 
Uttle- 
as  ac- 
;sivous 
Of 
on  of 
some- 


In  the  afternoon  of  his  first  day's  journey,  on 
drawing  near  to  the  Bigliorn  Mountain,  on  the 
summit  of  whidi  he  intended   to  encamp  for   the 
night,  he   observed,  to   his  (hscjuiet,  a  cloud  of 
smoke  rising  from  its  base.      He  came  to  a  lialt, 
and  watched  it  anxiously.     It  was  very  irregu- 
lar ;  sometimes  it  would  almost  die  away ;  and 
then  would  mount  up  in  heavy  volumes.     There 
was,  apparently,  a  large  party  encamped  there  ; 
probably,  some  ruffian  horde  of  Blackfeet.     At 
any  rate,  it  would  not  do  for  so  small  a  number 
of  men,  with  so  numerous  a  cavalcade,  to  venture 
within   sight   of  any   wandering   tribe.      Captiiin 
Bonneville  and  his  companions,  therefore,  avoided 
this    dangerous     neighborhood,    and,    proceeding 
with  extreme  caution,  reached  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  apparently   without    being  discovered. 
Here  they  found  a  deserted   Blackfoot   fort,  in 
which  they   ensconced   themselves ;    disposed  of 
everything  as   securely  as  possible,  and    passed 
the  night  without  molestation.     Pearly  the  next 
morning    they  descciided    the  south  side  of  the 
mountain  into  the  great  plain  extending  between 
it  and   the   Littlehorn    range.     Here   they  soon 
came  upon  numerous  footprints,  and  the  carcasses 
of  buffaloes;  by  which  they  knew  there  nuist  be 
Indians    not    far    off.     Captain    Bonneville  now 
began  to  feel  solicitude  about  the  two  small  par- 
ties of  trappers  whicli  he  had  detached  ;  lest  the 
Indians  should  have  come  ui)on  them  before  they 
had  united  their  forces.      But  he  felt  still  more 
solicitude  about  his  own  party  ;  for  it  was  hardly 
to  be  expected  he    could   traverse   these  naked 


244 


BONNEVlLLhTS  ADVENTURES. 


t!     ! 


m 


ih 


plains  undiscovered,  when  Indians  were  abroad  ; 
and  should  he  be  discovered,  his  chance  would 
be  a  desperate  one.  Everything  now  depended 
upon  the  greatest  circumspection.  It  was  danger- 
ous to  discharge  a  gun,  or  light  a  fire,  or  make 
the  least  noise,  where  such  quick-eared  and 
quick-sighted  enemies  were  at  hand.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  they  saw  indubitable  signs 
that  the  buffalo  had  been  roaming  there  in  great 
numbers,  and  had  recently  been  frightened  away. 
That  night  they  encamped  with  the  greatest  care ; 
and  threw  up  a  strong  breastwork  for  their  pro- 
tection. 

For  the  two  succeeding  days  they  pressed  for- 
ward rapidly,  but  cautiously,  across  the  great 
plain  ;  fording  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Horn 
River ;  encamping  one  night  among  thickets ; 
the  next,  on  an  island  ;  meeting,  repeatedly,  with 
traces  of  Indians  ;  and  now  and  then,  in  passing 
through  a  defile,  experiencing  alarms  that  induced 
them  to  cock  their  rifles. 

On  the  last  day  of  their  march  hunger  got  the 
better  of  their  caution,  and  they  shot  a  fine  buf- 
falo bull  at  the  risk  of  being  betrayed  by  the  re- 
port. They  did  not  halt  to  make  a  meal,  but 
carried  the  meat  on  with  them  to  the  place  of 
rendezvous,  the  Medicine  Lodge,  where  they  ar- 
rived safely,  in  the  evening,  and  celebrated  their 
arrival  by  a  hearty  supper. 

The  next  morning  they  erected  a  strong  pen 
for  the  horses,  and  a  fortress  of  logs  for  them- 
selves ;  and  continued  to  observe  the  greatest 
caution.     Their  cookmg  was  all  done  at  midday 


pen 
Ihem- 
patest 
[dday 


MEETING  AT   THE  RENDEZVOUS.        245 


i 


when  the  fire  makes  no  glare,  and  a  moderate 
smoke  cannot  be  perceived  at  any  great  distance. 
In  the  morning  and  the  evening,  when  the  wind 
is  lulled,  the  smoke  rises  perpendicularly  in  a 
blue  column,  or  floats  in  light  clouds  above  the 
tree-tops,  and  can  be  discovered  from  afar. 

In  this  way  the  little  party  remained  for 
several  days,  cautiously  encamped,  until,  on  the 
29th  of  August,  the  two  detachments  they  had 
been  expecting,  arrived  together  at  the  rendez- 
vous. They,  as  usual,  had  their  several  calea  of 
adventures  to  relate  to  the  captain,  which  «e  will 
furnish  to  the  reader  in  the  next  chapter 


1 

r! 


It  the 
buf- 
le  re- 
but 

le  of 
|y  ar- 
1  their 


mi 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 


Aaventurcs  of  the  part}' of  ten.  — The  Balaamite  mule.  —  A 
dead  point.  —  The  mysterious  elks.  —  A  night  attack. — 
A  retreat. — Travelling  under  an  alarm. — A  joyful  meet- 
ing. —  Adventures  of  the  other  party.  —  A  decoy  elk. — Re- 
treat to  an  island. —  A  savage  dance  of  triumph.  —  Arrival 
at  Wind  River. 

HE  adventures  of  the  detachment  of  ten 
are  the  first  in  order.  These  trappers, 
wlien  they  separated  from  Captain  Bon- 
neville at  the  place  where  the  furs  were  em- 
barked, proceeded  to  the  foot  of  the  Bighorn 
Mountain,  and  having  encamped,  one  of  tliem 
mounted  his  mule  and  went  out  to  set  Ins  trap  in 
a  neighboring  stream.  He  had  not  proceeded  far 
when  his  steed  came  to  a  full  stop.  The  trapper 
kicked  and  cudgelled,  but  to  every  blow  and  kick 
the  mule  snorted  and  kicked  up,  but  still  refused 
to  budge  an  inch.  The  rider  now  cast  his  eyes 
warily  around  in  search  of  some  cause  for  this  de- 
mur, when,  to  his  dismay,  he  discovered  an  Indian 
fort  within  gunshot  distance,  low^ering  through 
the  twilight.  In  a  twinklinjx  he  wheeled  about ; 
his  mule  now  seemed  as  eager  to  get  on  as  him- 
self, and  in  a  few  moments  brought  him,  clatter- 
ing with  his  traps,  among  his  comrades.  He  was 
jeered  at  for  liis  alacrity  in  retreating ;  his  report 


arms. 


'   5 


MYSTERIOUS  JELKS. 


247 


)ugh 
)out ; 
Ihim- 
itter- 
was 
jport 


was  treated  as  a  false  alarm  ;  his  brother  trappers 
contented  themselves  with  reconnoitring  the  fort 
at  u  distanee,  and  prononnecd  llnit  it  was  deserted. 
As  night  Slit  in,  the  usnal  precaution,  enjoined  by 
Captain  lionneville  on  his  men,  was  observed. 
The  horses  were  broiiglit  in  and  tied,  and  a 
guard  stationed  over  them.  This  done,  the  men 
wrapped  themselves  in  their  blankets,  stretched 
themselves  before  the  fire,  and  being  fatigued 
with  a  long  day's  march,  and  gorged  with  a 
hearty  supper,  were  soon  in  a  profound  sleep. 

The  camp  fires  gradually  died  away ;  all  was 
dark  and  silent;  the  sentinel  stationed  to  watch 
the  horses  had  marched  as  far,  and  supped  as 
heartily  as  any  of  his  companions,  and  while  they 
enored,  he  began  to  nod  at  his  post.  After  a 
time,  a  low  trampling  noise  reached  his  ear.  He 
half  opened  his  closing  eyes,  and  beheld  two  or 
three  elks  moving  about  the  lodges,  picking,  and 
smelling,  and  grazing  here  and  there.  The  sight 
of  elk  within  the  purlieus  of  the  camp  caused 
some  little  surprise ;  but,  having  had  his  supper, 
he  cared  not  for  elk  meat,  and,  suffering  them  to 
graze  about  unmolested,  soon  relapsed  into  a  doze. 

Suddenly,  before  daybreak,  a  discharge  of  fire- 
arms, and  a  struggle  and  tramp  of  horses,  made 
every  one  start  to  his  feet.  Tiie  first  move  was 
to  secure  the  horses.  Some  were  gone  ;  others 
were  struggling,  and  kicking,  and  trembling,  for 
there  was  a  horrible  uproar  of  whoops,  and  yells, 
and  fire-arms.  Several  trappers  stole  quietly  from 
the  camp,  and  succeeded  in  driving  in  the  horses 
which  had  broken  away ;  the  rest  were  tethered 


248 


BONNEVILLhra  ADVENTURES. 


Btill  more  strongly.  A  bn'ustwork  was  throwu 
up  of  sml(lle.'«,  baggage,  and  camp  furniture,  ano 
uJl  hands  waited  anxiously  for  daylight.  Tiie 
Indians,  in  the  meantime,  collected  on  a  neighbor- 
ing heigiit,  kept  up  the  most  horrible  clamor,  in 
hopes  of  striking  a  panic  into  the  camp,  or  fright- 
ening off  the  horses.  When  the  day  dawned, 
the  trappers  attacked  them  briskly  atid  drove 
them  to  some  distance.  A  desultory  firing  was 
kept  up  for  an  hour,  when  the  Indians,  seeing 
nothing  was  to  be  gained,  gave  up  the  contest 
and  retired.  They  proved  to  be  a  war  party  of 
Blackfeet,  who,  while  in  search  of  the  Crow  tribe, 
liad  fallen  upon  the  trail  of  Captain  Boimeville 
on  the  Popo  Agie,  and  dogged  him  to  the  Big- 
horn ;  but  had  been  completely  baflled  by  his 
vigilance.  They  had  then  waylaid  the  present 
detachment,  and  were  actually  housed  in  perfect 
silence  within  their  fort,  when  the  mule  of  the 
trapper  made  such  a  dead  point. 

The  savages  went  off  uttering  the  wildest  de- 
nunciations of  hostility,  mingled  with  opprobrious 
terms  in  broken  English,  and  gesticulations  of 
the  most  insulting  kind. 

In  this  melee,  one  white  man  was  wounded, 
and  two  horses  were  killed.  On  preparing  the 
morning's  meal,  however,  a  number  of  cups, 
knives,  and  other  articles  were  missing,  which 
had,  doubtless,  been  carried  off  by  the  fictitious 
elk,  during  the  slumber  of  the  very  sagacious 
sentinel. 

As  the  Indians  had  gone  off  in  the  direction 
which   the  trappers  1  ad  intended   to    travel,  the 


Big- 


inded, 
IK  the 

cups, 
(which 

ition3 
liciou3 


jction 
ll,  tho 


AfEETING    WITH   COMRADES. 


249 


latter  charif^ed  their  route,  and  puslied  f()rward 
rapidly  througli  tlje  ''  Had  Pass,*'  nor  hahed  until 
night;  when,  supposinj^  tlienisclvert  out  of  the 
reach  of  the  enemy,  tl»ey  contented  themselves 
with  tying  up  their  horses  and  postinj^  a  pjuard. 
Tiiey  had  scarce  laid  down  to  sleep,  Vv  lien  a  dog 
strayed  into  the  camp  with  a  small  pack  of  moc- 
casins tied  upon  his  back  ;  for  dogs  are  made  to 
carry  burdens  among  the  Indians.  The  sentinel, 
more  knowing  than  he  of  the  preceding  night, 
awoke  his  companions  and  reported  the  circum- 
stance. It  was  evident  that  Indians  were  at 
hand.  All  were  instantly  at  work  ;  a  strong  pen 
was  soon  constructed  for  the  horses,  after  com- 
pleting which,  they  resumed  their  slumbers  with 
the  composure  of  men  long  iinn*ed  to  dangers. 

In  the  next  night,  the  prowling  of  dogs  about 
the  camp,  and  various  suspicious  noises,  showed 
that  Indians  were  still  hovering  about  them. 
HuxTying  on  by  long  marches,  they  at  length  fell 
upon  a  trail,  which,  with  the  experienced  eye  of 
a  veteran  woodman,  they  soon  discovered  to  Ije 
that  of  the  party  of  t^-appers  detached  by  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  when  on  his  march,  and  which 
they  were  sent  to  join.  They  likewise  ascer- 
tained from  various  signs,  that  this  party  had 
Buffered  some  maltreatment  from  the  Indians. 
They  now  pursued  the  trail  with  intense  anxiety ; 
it  carried  them  to  the  banks  of  the  stream  called 
the  Gray  Bull,  and  down  along  its  course,  until 
they  came  to  where  it  empties  into  the  Horn 
River.  Here,  to  their  great  joy,  they  discovered 
the  <*omrades  of  whom  they  were  in  search,  all 


Ilv 


250 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


W^ 


^>p 


iMl 


llflWtt^ 


Btroiigly  fortified,  and  in  a  state  of  great  watch- 
fulness  and  anxiety. 

We  ?io\v  take  np  the  adventures  of  this  first 
detacliment  of  trappers,  Tliese  men,  after  part- 
\u<f  with  the  main  body  under  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, had  proceeded  slowly  for  several  days  up 
the  course  of  the  river,  trapping  beaver  as  they 
went.  One  morning,  as  they  were  about  to  visit 
their  trnps,  one  of  the  camp-keepers  pointed  tf» 
a  fine  elk,  grazing  at  a  distance,  and  requested 
them  to  shoot  it.  Three  of  the  trappers  started 
off  for  the  purpose.  In  passing  a  thicket,  they 
were  fired  upon  by  some  savages  in  ambush, 
and  at  the  same  time,  the  pretended  elk,  throw- 
ing off  his  hide  and  his  horn,  started  forth  an  In- 
dian warrior. 

One  of  the  tlu'ce  trappers  had  been  brought 
down  by  the  volley  ;  the  others  fied  to  the  oamp, 
and  all  hands,  seizing  up  whatever  they  could 
carry  off,  retreated  to  a  small  island  in  the  river, 
and  took  refuge  amoiig  the  willows.  Here  they 
were  soon  joined  by  their  comrade  who  had 
fallen,  but  who  had  merely  been  wounded  in  the 
neck. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Indians  took  possession 
of  the  deserted  camp,  with  all  the  traps,  accoutre- 
ments, and  horses.  While  they  were  busy  among 
the  spoils,  a  solitary  trapper,  who  had  been  ab- 
sent at  his  work,  came  sauntering  to  the  camp 
with  his  traps  on  his  back.  lie  had  ap- 
proached near  by,  when  an  Indian  came  forward 
and  motioned  him  to  keep  away  ;  at  the  same 
moment,  he  was  perceived  by  his  comrades  on  the 


fo  jn 


1  11 


AN  INSULTING    WAR  DANCE. 


251 


:'TSv* 


•iver, 

they 

had 

the 


ssion 
utre- 

iib- 
iinp 
ap- 
Iwanl 
Isaine 
\\  the 


island,  and  warned  of  his  danger  with  loud  mes. 
Tlie  poor  fellow  stood  for  a  moment,  bewildered 
and  aghast,  then  dropping  his  traps,  wheeled  and 
made  off  at  full  speed,  quiekened  by  a  sportive 
volley  which  the  Indians  rattled  after  him. 

In  high  good  humor  with  'heir  easy  triumph, 
the  savages  now  formed  a  circle  round  the  fire 
and  perfoimed  a  war  dance,  with  the  uiducky 
trappers  for  rueful  spectators.  This  done,  em- 
boldened by  what  they  considered  cowardice  on 
the  part  of  the  white  men,  they  neglected  their 
usual  mode  of  bush-fighting,  and  advanced  opeidy 
within  twenty  paces  of  the  willows.  A  sharp 
volley  from  tlie  trappers  brought  them  to  a  sud- 
den halt,  and  laid  three  of  them  breathless. 
The  chief,  who  had  statioiied  himself  on  an  emi- 
nence to  direct  all  the  movements  of  his  people, 
seeinjr  three  of  his  warriors  laid  lo^  v  ordered  the 
rest  to  retire.  They  immediately  aid  so,  and 
the  whole  band  soon  disappeared  behind  a  point 
of  woods,  carrying  off  with  them  the  horses, 
traps,   and   the  greater  part  of  the  baggage. 

It  was  just  after  this  misfortune,  that  the 
party  of  ten  men  discovered  this  forlorn  band  of 
trappers  in  a  fortress,  which  they  had  thrown  up 
after  their  disaster.  They  were  so  perfectly  dis- 
oiayed,  that  they  could  not  be  induced  even  to 
|0  in  quest  of  their  traps,  which  they  had  set  in 
«  neigiiboring  stream.  The  two  parties  now 
joined  their  forces,  and  made  their  way,  without 
further  misfortune,  to  the  rendezvous. 

Captain  Bonneville  perceived  from  the  reports 
of  these  parties,  as  well  as  from  what  he  had  ob- 


1HJ 


«' 


^l- 


l 


I 


252 


B  ONNE  VJLLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


served  himself  in  his  recent  march,  that  he  was 
in  a  neighborliood  teemins  with  danger.  Two 
wandering  Snake  Indians,  also,  who  visited  the 
camp,  assured  him  that  there  were  two  large 
bands  of  Crows  marching  rapidly  upon  him. 
He  broke  up  his  encampment,  therefore,  on  t!ie 
1st  of  September,  made  his  way  to  the  south, 
across  the  Littlehorn  Mountain,  until  he  reached 
Wind  River,  and  then  turning  westward,  moved 
slowly  up  the  banks  of  that  stream,  giving  time 
for  his  men  to  trap  as  he  proceeded.  As  it  was 
not  in  the  plan  of  the  present  hunting  campaign 
to  go  near  the  caches  on  Green  River,  and  as  the 
trappers  were  in  want  of  traps  to  replace  those 
they  had  lost,  Captain  Bonneville  undertook  to 
visit  the  caches,  and  procure  a  supply.  To  ac- 
company him  in  this  hazardous  expedition,  which 
would  take  him  through  the  defiles  of  the  Wind 
River  Mountains,  and  up  the  Green  River  Val- 
ley, he  took  but  three  men ;  the  main  party 
were  to  continue  on  trapping  up  towards  the 
head  of  Wind  River,  near  which  he  was  to  re- 
join them,  just  about  the  place  where  that  stream 
issues  from  the  mountains.  We  shall  accompany 
the  captain  on  his  adventurous  errand. 


I'»i 


i 


NQ3 
?WO 

the 
irge 
iiim. 
the 
)uih, 
ched 
oved 
time 
[  was 
paign 
IS  the 
those 
ok  to 
?o  ac- 
vvhich 
Whid 

Viil- 
party 
3    the 
to  re- 
tream 
pany 


CHAPTER   XXV. 

Captain  Bonneville  sets  out  for  Green  River  Valley.  —  Jour- 
ney up  the  Pope  Aji^io.  —  Ruffrtloes.  —  The  staring  white 
bears.  —  The  smoke.  —  The  warm  springs  — Attempt  to 
traverse  the  Wind  Kiver  Moniitains. —  The  Great  Slope. 
Mountain  dells  and  chasms.  —  Crystal  lakes.  —  Ascent  of 
a  si.owy  peak.  —  Sublime  prospect.  —  A  panorama.  —  "  Lea 
digues  de  pitie,"  or  wild  men  of  the  mountains. 


AVING  forded  Wind  River  a  little  above 
i  KQ  k^  ^^^  mouth,  Captain  Boiiiievilie  and  his 
»»»w*.i^  three  companions  proceeded  across  a 
gravelly  phi'n,  until  they  fell  upon  the  Popo  Agie, 
up  the  left  bank  of  which  they  held  their  course, 
nearly  in  a  southerly  direction.  Here  they  came 
upon  numerous  droves  of  buffalo,  and  halted  for 
the  purpo-se  of  procuring  a  supply  of  beef.  As 
the  hunters  were  stealing  cautiously  to  get  within 
shot  of  the  game,  two  small  white  bears  suddenly 
presented  themselves  in  their  patli,  and,  rising 
upon  their  hind  legs,  contemplated  them  for  soiue 
time,  with  a  whimsically  solemn  gaze.  The  hunt- 
ers remained  motionless ;  whereupon  the  bears, 
having  apparently  satisfied  their  curiosity,  lowered 
themselves  upon  all  fours,  and  began  to  withdraw 
The  hunters  now  advanced,  upon  which  the  bears 
turned,  rose  again  upon  their  haunches,  and  re- 
peated their  serio-comic  examination.     This  was 


\ 
i 


254 


B ONNEVILLE S  AD  VENTURES. 


-ill 


INMii 


m 


mi 


repeated  several  times,  until  the  hunters,  piqued 
at  their  unmannerly  staring,  rebuked  it  witli  a 
discharge  of  their  rifles.  The  bears  made  an 
awkward  bound  or  two,  as  if  wounded,  and  then 
walked  off  with  great  gravity,  seeming  to  com- 
mune together,  and  every  now  and  then  turning 
to  take  another  look  at  the  imnters.  It  was  well 
for  tlie  latter  that  the  bears  w  jre  but  half  grown, 
and  had  not  yet  acquired  the  ferocity  of  their 
kind. 

The  buffalo  were  pomewhat  startled  at  the  re- 
port of  the  fire-arms ;  but  the  hunters  succeeded 
in  killing  a  couple  of  fine  cows,  and,  having  se- 
cured the  best  of  the  meat,  continued  forward 
until  some  time  after  dark,  when,  encamping  in 
a  large  thicket  of  willows,  they  made  a  great  fire, 
roasted  buffalo  beef  enough  for  half  a  score,  dis- 
posed of  the  whole  of  it  with  keen  relisii  and 
high  glee,  arid  then  "  turned  in  "  for  the  night  and 
slept  soundly,  like    weary  and   well  fed   hunters. 

At  dayh'ght  they  were  in  the  saddle  again,  and 
skirted  along  the  river,  passing  through  fresh 
grassy  meadows,  and  a  succession  of  beautiful 
groves  of  willows  and  cotton-wood.  Towards 
evening,  Captain  Bonneville  observed  a  smoke  at 
a  distance  rising  from  among  hills,  directly  in  the 
route  he  was  pursuing.  Apprehensive  of  some 
hostile  band,  he  concealed  the  horses  in  a  tliicket, 
and,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  men,  crawled  cau- 
tiously up  a  height,  from  which  he  could  overlook 
the  scene  of  danger.  Here,  with  a  spy-glass,  he 
recotmoitred  the  surrounding  country,  but  not  a 
lodge  uor  fire,  not  a  man,  horse,  nor  dog,  was  to 


fHWi 


m 


WIND  RIVER  MOUNTAINS. 


255 


be  discovered ;  in  short,  the  smoke  which  had 
caused  such  alarm  proved  to  be  the  vapor  from 
several  warm,  or  rather  hot  springs  of  consider- 
able magnilude,  pouring  forth  st»'eams  in  avevy 
direction  over  a  bottom  of  white  chiy.  One  of 
the  springs  was  about  twenty-five  yards  in  diam- 
eter, aa<l  so  deep,  tliat  tlie  water  was  of  a  brigiit 
green  color. 

They  were  now  advancing  diagonally  upon  the 
chain  of  Wind  River  Mountains,  which  lay  be- 
tween them  and  Green  River  Valley.  To  coast 
round  their  southern  points  would  be  a  wide  cir- 
cuit ;  whereas,  could  they  fo'  e  their  way  through 
them,  they  might  proceed  in  a  straight  line. 
The  mountjiins  were  lofty,  with  snowy  peaks  and 
cragged  sides ;  it  was  hoped,  however,  that  some 
practicable  defile  might  be  found.  They  at- 
te!:!;"*«^d,  accordingly,  to  penetrate  the  mountains 
by  following  up  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Popo 
Agie,  but  soon  found  themselves  in  the  midst  of 
stupendous  crags  and  precipices,  that  barred  all 
progress.  Retracing  their  steps,  and  falling  back 
upon  the  river,  they  consulted  where  to  make 
another  attempt.  They  were  too  close  beneath 
the  mountains  to  scim  them  generally,  but  they 
now  recollected  having  noticed,  from  the  plain,  a 
beautiful  slope,  rising,  at  an  angle  of  about  thirty 
degrees,  and  apparently  without  any  break,  until 
it  reached  the  snowy  region.  Seeking  this  gen- 
tle acclivity,  they  began  to  ascend  it  with  alac- 
rity, trusting  to  find  at  the  top  one  of  those  ele- 
vated plains  which  prevail  among  the  Rocky 
M(;untains.     The  slone  was  covered  with  coarse 


ill 


:    if 


[\ 


lii 


iiii|.i' 


256 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


gravel,  interspersed  with  plates  of  freestona 
They  attained  the  summit  with  some  toil,  but 
found,  instead  of  a  level,  or  rather  undulating 
plain,  that  they  were  on  the  brink  of  a  deep  and 
precipitous  ravine,  from  the  bottom  of  which 
rose  a  second  slope,  similar  to  the  one  they  had 
just  ascended.  Down  into  this  profound  ravine 
they  made  their  way  by  a  rugged  path,  oi*  rather 
fissure  of  the  rocks,  and  then  labored  up  the  sec- 
ond slope.  Tliey  gained  the  summit  only  to  find 
themselves  on  another  ravine,  and  now  perceived 
that  this  vast  mountain,  which  had  presented 
such  a  sloping  and  even  side  to  the  distant  be- 
holder on  the  plain,  was  shagged  by  frightful 
precipices,  and  seamed  with  longitudinal  chasms, 
deep  and  dangerous. 

In  one  of  tliese  wild  dells  they  passed  the 
night,  and  slept  soundly  and  sweetly  after  their 
fatigues.  Two  days  more  of  arduous  climbing 
and  scrambling  oidy  served  to  admit  them  into 
the  heart  of  this  mountainous  and  awful  solitude ; 
where  difficulties  increased  as  they  proceeded. 
Sometimes  they  scrambled  from  rock  to  rock,  up 
the  bed  of  some  mountain  stream,  dashing  its 
bright  way  down  to  tlie  plains  ;  sometimes  they 
availed  themselves  of  the  paths  made  by  the  deer 
and  the  mountain  sheep,  which,  however,  often 
took  them  to  the  brink  of  fearful  precipices,  or 
led  to  rugged  defiles,  impassable  for  their  horses. 
At  one  place,  they  were  obliged  to  slide  their 
horses  down  the  face  of  a  rock,  in  which  attempt 
some  of  the  poor  animals  lost  their  footing,  rolled 
to  the  V)ottom,  and  came  near  being  dashed  to 
pieces. 


ASCENT  OF  A  SNOWY  PEAK. 


257 


into 
ude; 
leded. 
:,  up 
\il  its 
they 
deer 
loften 
[js,  or 
>rses 
Itheir 
;mpt 
lolled 
id   to 


In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day,  the  travel- 
lers attained  one  of  the  elevated  valleys  locked 
up  in  this  singular  bed  of  mountains.  Here 
were  two  bright  and  beautiful  little  lakes,  set  like 
mirrors  in  the  midst  of  stern  and  rocky  heights, 
and  surrounded  by  grassy  meadows,  inexpressibly 
refreshing  to  the  eye.  These  probably  were 
among  the  sources  of  those  mighty  streams  which 
take  their  rise  among  these  mountains,  and  wan- 
der hundreds  of  miles  through  the  plains. 

In  the  green  pastures  bordering  upon  these 
lakes,  the  travellers  halted  to  repose,  and  to  give 
their  weary  horses  time  to  crop  the  sweet  and 
tender  herbage.  Tiiey  had  now  ascended  to  a 
great  height  above  the  level  of  the  plains,  yet 
they  beheld  huge  crags  of  granite  piled  one  upon 
another,  and  beetling  like  battlemtnts  far  above 
them.  While  two  of  the  men  remained  in  the 
camp  with  the  horses,  Captain  Bonneville,  accom- 
panied by  the  other  men,  set  out  to  climb  a 
neighboring  height,  hoping  to  gain  a  commanding 
prospect,  and  discern  some  practicable  route 
through  this  stupendous  labyrinth.  After  much 
toil,  he  reached  ihe  summit  of  a  lofty  cliff,  but  it 
was  only  to  behold  gigantic  peaks  rising  all 
around,  and  towering  far  into  the  snowy  regions 
of  the  atmosphere.  Selecting  one  which  ajK 
pea  red  to  be  the  highest,  he  crossed  a  narrow  in- 
tervening valley,  and  began  to  scide  it.  He  soon 
found  that  he  had  undertaken  a  tremendous  task  ; 
but  the  pride  of  man  is  never  more  obstinate 
than  when  climbing  mountains.     The  ascent  was 

so  steep  ar.d  rugged  that  he  and   his  corapaniona 

17 


I  I  ! 


•4T') 


wk» 


m 


ff 


258 


B OSNE VI LL E'S  ADVEVT URES. 


were  frequently  obli^jeil  to  clam})er  on  hands  and 
knees,  willi  tlieir  guns  slung  upon  their  baeks. 
Fre(iuently,  exhausted  with  fatigue,  and  dripping 
witli  perspiration,  they  threw  themselves  upon 
the  snow,  and  took  liandfuls  of  it  to  allay  their 
parcliing  tiiirst.  At  owi.  place,  they  even  stripped 
off  their  coats  and  hung  theni  upon  the  bushes, 
and  thus  lightly  clad,  proceeded  to  scramble  over 
these  eternal  snows.  As  they  ascended  still 
higher,  there  were  cool  breezes  that  refreshed  and 
braced  Mieoi,  and  springing  with  new  ardor  to 
their  ta  ;  .  th  -  '  at  length  attained  the  summit. 

Here  <.  ^cenc  Hurst  upon  the  view  of  Captain 
Bonneville,  that  for  ji  time  astonished  and  over- 
whelmed him  with  its  immensity.  Pie  stood,  in 
fact,  upon  that  dividing  ridge  which  Indians  re- 
gard as  the  crest  of  the  world ;  and  on  each  side 
of  wliich,  the  landscape  may  be  said  to  decline  to 
the  two  cardinal  oceans  of  the  jjlobe.  Which- 
ever  way  he  turned  his  eye,  it  was  confounde*! 
by  the  vastness  and  variety  of  objects.  Beneath 
him,  the  Rocky  Mountains  seemed  to  open  all 
their  secret  recesses :  deep,  solemn  valleys ; 
treasured  lakes ;  dreary  passes ;  rugged  defiles, 
and  foaming  torrents ;  while  beyond  their  savage 
precincts,  the  eye  Wiuj  lost  in  an  almost  immeas- 
urable landsciipe ;  sti'ctching  on  every  side  into 
dim  and  hazy  distance,  like  the  expanse  of  a 
summer's  sea.  Whichever  way  he  looked,  ho 
beheld  vast  plains  jrlimmerinij  with  reflected  sun- 
shine;  mighty  streams  wandering  on  their  shin- 
ing course  toward  either  ocean,  and  snowy  moun- 
tains, chain  beyond  chain,  and  peak  beyond  peak, 


'  'p 


'  ^ 


SUBLIME  PROSPECT, 


259 


lavage 
Imeaa- 
into 
of  a 
^(1,  ho 
sun- 
shin- 
hioun- 
peak, 


till  they  melted  like  eloiuls  into  the  liorlzon. 
For  a  time,  the  Indian  fable  seemed  realized  : 
he  had  attained  tliat  heiidit  from  which  the 
Blackfoot  warrior  after  dealh,  fir.-it  catches  a  view 
of  the  land  of  souls,  and  beholds  the  liap()y  hunt- 
ing grounds  spread  out  l>elow  him,  brighteiiing 
w\ii  the  abodes  of  the  free  and  cenerous  spirits 

*?  I 

The  captain  stood  for  a  long  while  gazing  upon 
U\\a  scene,  lost  in  a  crowd  of  vague  and  indefi- 
nite ideas  and  snnsations.  A  long-ilrawn  inspir- 
ation at  lengtli  reli'ived  him  from  this  enthrall- 
ment  of  the  mind,  aud  he  began  to  aiudyze  the 
parts  of  this  vast  panorama,  A  simple  n'lmer- 
ation  of  a  few  of  its  features,  may  give  ome 
idea  of  its  collective  grandeur  and  magnificence. 
The  peak  on  which  the  captain  had  taken  his 
stand,  commanded  the  whole  Wind  Kiver  chain  ; 
which,  in  fact,  may  rather  be  consi«lei  J  one  im- 
mense mountain,  broken  into  snowy  peaks  and 
lateral  spurs,  and  seamed  with  narrow  valleys. 
Some  of  these  valleys  glittered  with  silver  lakes 
and  gushing  streams  ;  tlie  fountain  heads,  as  it 
were,  of  thf?  mighty  tributaries  to  the  Atlantic 
and  Pacilic  Oceans.  Beyond  the  snowy  peaks, 
to  the  south,  and  far,  far  below  the  mountain 
range,  the  gentle  river,  called  the  Sweet  Water, 
was  seen  pursuing  its  tranquil  way  through  the 
ru«Tired  rejjions  of  the  Black  Hills.  In  the  east, 
tiie  head  waters  of  Wind  River  wandered 
through  a  plain,  until,  mingling  in  one  powerful 
current,  they  forced  their  way  through  the  range 
of  Horn  Mountains,  and  were  lost  to  view.  To 
the    norUi,  were   caught  glimpses   of   the  upper 


i  ill 

■  •  'I 

'  i 

I  ■ 

■  '1 


i^mm 


2G0 


B ONNE  VILLE^S  AD  VENTURES. 


Btreams  of  the  Yellovvsloiie,  tliat  great  tributary 
of  the  Missouri.  In  another  direction  were  to 
be  seen  some  of  the  sources  of  tiie  Oregon,  or 
Columbia  flowing  to  the  northwest,  past  those 
towering  hmchnarks  the  three  Tetons,  and  pour- 
ing down  into  the  great  lava  plain ;  while,  al- 
most at  the  captain's  feet,  the  Green  River,  or 
Colorado  of  the  West,  set  forth  on  its  wandering 
pilgrimage  to  the  Gulf  of  California  ;  at  first  a 
mere  mountaii?  torrent,  dashing  northward  over 
crag  and  precipice,  in  a  succession  of  cascades, 
and  tumbling  into  the  plain,  where,  expanding 
into  an  ample  river,  it  circled  away  to  the  south, 
and  after  alternately  shining  out  and  disappear- 
ing in  the  mazes  of  the  vast  landscape,  was  fi- 
nally lost  in  a  horizon  of  mountains.  The  day 
was  calm  and  cloudless,  and  the  atmosphere  so 
pure  that  objects  were  discernable  at  an  astonish- 
ing distance.  The  whole  of  this  immense  area 
was  inclosed  by  an  outer  range  of  shadowy 
peaks,  some  of  them  faintly  marked  on  the  hori- 
zon, which  seemed  to  wall  it  in  from  the  rest  of 
the  earth. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  Captain  Bonneville 
had  no  instruments  with  him  with  which  to  as- 
certain the  altitude  of  this  peak.  He  gives  it  as 
his  opinion,  that  it  is  the  loftiest  point  of  the 
North  American  continent ;  but  of  this  we  have 
no  satisfactory  proof.  It  is  certain  that  the 
Rocky  Mountains  are  of  an  altitude  vastly  supe- 
rior to  what  was  formerly  supposed.  We  rather 
incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  highest  peak  is 
further  to  the  northward,  and  is  the  same  nieas- 


nKRMiT  INDIANS. 


261 


J 
1 


or 


leville 

to  as- 
it  as 

If  the 

have 

the 

jsupe- 
•ather 
[ak  is 
meas- 


urcfl  by  Mr.  Thompson,  surveyor  to  tlie  N«)rth- 
west  Company;  who,  by  the  joint  means  of  the 
barometer  ainl  tri;:;()nom('tric  mt'sisiirtMni'nt,  ascer- 
tnined  it  to  be  twenty-five  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  ;  an  elevation  only  interior 
to  that  of  the  Himalayas.^ 

For  a  long  time,  Captain  Bonneville  remained 
gazing  around  him  with  wonder  and  enthusiasm  ; 
at  length  the  chill  and  wintry  winds,  whiiling 
about  the  snow-clad  heii^ht,  admonished  him  to 
descend.  lie  soon  I'cgained  the  spot  where  ho 
and  his  companions  had  thrown  off  their  coats, 
which  were  now  gladly  resumed,  and,  retracing 
their  course  down  the  peak,  they  safely  rejoined 
their  companions  on  the  border  of  the  lake. 

Notwithstanding  the  savage  and  almost  inac- 
cessible nature  of  these  mountains,  they  have 
their  iidiabitants.  As  one  of  tije  party  was  out 
hunting,  he  came  upon  the  solitary  track  of  a 
man,  in  a  lonely  valley.  Following  it  up,  he 
reached  the  brow  of  a  cliff,  whence  he  beheld 
three  savages  ruiming  across  the  valley  below 
him.  He  fired  his  gun  to  call  their  attention, 
hoping  to  induce  them  to  turn  back.  They  oidy 
fled  the  faster,  and  disappeared  among  the  rocks. 
The  hunter  returned  and  reported  what  he  had 
seen.  Captain  I^onnevilie  at  once  concluded  that 
these  belonged  to  a  kind  of  hermit  race,  scanty 
in  number,  that  inhabit  the  highest  and  most  in 
accessible  fastnesses.  They  speak  the  Shoshonie 
language,  and  probably  are  offsets  from  that  tribe, 

1  See  the  letter  of  Professor  Renwick,  in  the  Appendix  to 
AB'oria* 


i      ) 


m 


m 


262 


BON  NEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


tlioiij^l:  tlicy  luivc  pcciillnrities  of  their  own, 
wlucli  (listiriirnlsli  tlicin  from  all  other  Indijins. 
Tlioy  ftre  iniserahly  poor ;  own  no  horsi^s,  aiui 
are  (hjstitute  of*  every  convenience  to  be  derived 
from  an  intercourse  v/ith  the  whites.  Their 
weapons  are  bows  and  stone-pointed  arrows,  with 
wliicii  they  hunt  the  deer,  tiie  elk,  and  the  moun- 
lain  sheep.  Tiiey  are  to  be  found  scattered  about 
the  countries  of  the  Shoshonie,  Flathead,  Crow, 
and  Hlackfeet  tribes;  but  their  residences  are  al- 
ways in  lonely  places,  and  the  clefts  of  the  rocks. 

Their  footsteps  are  often  seen  by  the  trappers 
in  the  hiu;h  and  solitary  valleys  anion";  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  smokes  of  their  fires  descried  among 
the  precipices,  but  they  themselves  are  rarely  met 
with  and  still  more  rarely  brou^^ht  to  a  parley,  so 
great  is  their  shyness,  and  their  dread  of  stran- 
gers. 

As  their  poverty  ofTers  no  temptation  to  the  ma- 
rauder, and  as  they  are  inoffensive  in  their  habits, 
they  are  never  the  objects  of  warfare :  should 
one  of  them,  however,  fall  into  the  hands  of  a 
war  ])arty,  he  is  sure  to  be  made  a  sacrifice,  for 
the  sake  of  that  savage  trophy,  a  scalp,  and  that 
barbarous  ceremony,  a  scalp  dance.  Those  for- 
lorn beinjrs,  formin*;  a  mere  link  between  human 
nature  and  the  brute,  have  been  lool^^d  down 
upon  with  pity  and  contempt  by  the  creole  trap- 
pers, wdio  have  given  them  the  appellation  of 
'*]es  digues  de  pitie,"  or  ''the  objects  of  pity." 
They  appear  more  worthy  to  be  called  the  wild 
men  of  the  mountiuns. 


I ; 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


'I 


!  I 


A  retrograde  move.  —  Clmtniel  of  a  mountain  torrent.  —  Al- 
pine sicencry.  --  Cnscades.  —  Ik-avcr  valli'vs.  —  I't'iivera  at 
work  —  tlieir  arcliitpcture  —  tht-ir  iiKxles  ot*  fflliiii;  trees.  — 
Mode  of  triippiiij^  l)eaver. — Contests  of  skill.  —  A  beaver 
"  up  I.,  trap."  —  Arrival  at  the  Green  Itiver  caclies. 

HE  view  from  the  snowy  peak  of  the 
Wind  Uiver  Mountain,  while  it  had  ex- 
cited Captain  Bonneville's  enthusiasm, 
had  satisfied  him  that  it  would  he  useless  to  force 
a  i)assage  westward,  throui^h  multi[)lyin^  harriers 
of  cliffs  and  precipices.  Turning  his  face  east- 
ward, therefore,  he  endeavoi-ed  to  rei^ain  the 
plains,  intending  to  make  the  circuit  round  the 
southern  point  of  the  mountain.  To  descend, 
and  to  extricate  himself  from  the  lieart  of  this 
rock-piled  wilderness,  was  almost  as  ditlicult  jis  to 
penetrate  it.  Taking  his  course  down  the  ravine 
of  a  tumhling  stream,  the  commencement  of  some 
future  river,  he  descended  from  rock  to  rock,  and 
shelf  to  shelf,  between  stupendous  clitrs  and  bee- 
tling crags,  that  sprang  up  to  the  sky.  Ollen  he 
had  o  cross  and  recross  the  rushinix  torrent,  as  it 
wouu(i  foamin<x  and  roarinix  down  its  broken 
cliannel,  or  was  walled  by  ]ierpendicular  preci- 
pices ;  and  imminent  was  the  hazard  of  breaking 
the  Icffs  of  the  horses  in  the  cleRs  and  iissuresof 


illh:! 


IH 


11 


264 


UONNEVILLICS  ADVENTURES. 


■m^ 


IIIHP^ 


slippery  rocks.  Tlie  wliole  scenery  of  this  deep 
riivine  was  of  Alpine  wiidness  and  sublimity. 
Sometimes  the  travellers  paf3sed  l)eneath  cascades 
which  pitched  from  such  lofty  heights,  that  the 
water  fell  into  the  stream  like  heavy  rain.  In 
otlier  places,  torrents  came  tumbling  from  cnig  to 
crag,  <lashing  into  foam  and  spray,  and  making 
tremendous  din  and  uproiM*. 

On  the  second  day  of  their  descent,  the  trav- 
ellers, having  got  beyond  the  steepest  pitch  of  the 
mountains,  Ciime  to  where  the  deep  and  ruggud 
ravine  began  occasionally  to  expand  into  small 
levels  or  valleys,  and  the  stream  to  assume  for 
short  intervals  a  more  peaceful  character.  Here, 
not  merely  the  river  itself,  but  every  rivulet  flow- 
ing into  it,  was  dannne*!  up  by  connnunities  of 
industrious  beavers,  so  as  to  inundaie  the  neiijh- 
borhood,  and  make  continual  swamps. 

During  a  midday  halt  in  one  of  these  beaver 
valleys.  Captain  Bonneville  left  his  companions, 
aiid  strolled  down  the  course  of  the  stream  to  rec- 
onnoitre, lie  had  not  proceede<l  far,  when  he 
came  to  a  beaver  pond,  and  caught  :•  glim{)se  of 
one  of  its  j)ainstaking  iidiabitants  busily  at  work 
uj)on  the  dam.  The  curiosity  of  the  capUiin  was 
aroused,  to  behold  the  mode  of  operating  of  this 
far-famed  architect ;  he  moved  forward,  therefore, 
with  the  utmost  caution,  parting  the  branches  of 
the  water  willows  without  making  any  noise, 
until  having  attained  a  position  commanding  a 
view  of  the  whole  })ond,  he  stretched  himself  fiat 
on  the  ground,  and  watched  the  solitary  work- 
man.    Ir;  a  little  while,  three  others  appeared  at 


BEAVERS  AT    WORK. 


265 


the  head  of  tlie  dam,  bringing  sticks  and  buslies. 
Witli  these  they  proceeded  directly  to  the  barrier, 
which  Captain  Bonneville  perceived  was  in  need 
of  repair.  Having  deposited  their  loads  upon  the 
broken  part,  they  dived  into  the  water,  and 
Fhortly  reappeared  at  the  surface.  Each  now 
brought  a  quantity  of  mud,  with  which  he  would 
piaster  the  sticks  and  bushes  just  deposited.  This 
kind  of  masonry  was  continued  for  some  time,  re- 
])eated  sui)plies  of  wood  and  mud  being  brought, 
and  treated  in  the  same  manner.  This  done,  the 
industrious  beavers  hidulged  in  a  little  recreation, 
chasing  each  other  about  the  pond,  dodging  and 
whisking  about  on  the  surface,  or  diving  to  the 
bottom  ;  and  in  their  frolic,  often  slapping  their 
tails  on  the  water  with  a  loud  clacking  sound. 
While  they  were  thus  amusing  themselves,  an- 
other of  the  fraternity  made  his  appearance,  and 
looked  gravely  on  their  sports  for  some  time,  with- 
out offering  to  join  in  them.  He  then  climbed 
the  bank  close  to  where  the  captain  was  con- 
cealed, and,  rearing  himself  on  his  hind  (piarters, 
HI  a  sitting  position,  put  his  fore  paws  against  a 
young  |)inL-tree,  and  began  to  cut  the  bark  with 
his  teeth.  At  times  he  would  tear  olf  a  small 
piece,  and  holding  it  between  his  })aws,  and  re- 
taining his  sedentary  position,  wouM  feed  hinvself 
with  it,  after  the  fashion  of  a  monkey.  The  ob- 
ject of  the  beaver,  however,  was  evidently  to  cut 
down  the  tree ;  and  he  was  proceeding  with  his 
work,  when  he  was  alarmed  b)''  the  a])proach  of 
Captain  Bonneville's  men,  wlio,  feeling  anxious 
tit   the   protracted   absence  of  their  leader,  were 


m 


2GG 


£J  ONNE  VILLI? S  AD  VENTURES 


coiiiiiiij  in  seiircli  of  liim.  At  the  sound  of  their 
voices,  all  tlie  beavers,  hiisy  as  well  as  idle,  dived 
at  once  beiie;ith  tlie  surface,  and  were  no  more  to 
be  seen.  Caj)tain  JJonneville  regretted  this  in- 
terruption. II(;  had  heard  much  of  the  sagacity 
of  the  beaver  in  cutting  down  trees,  in  which,  it 
is  said,  they  manage  to  make  them  full  into  the 
water,  and  in  such  a  position  and  direction  as 
may  be  most  favoral)le  for  conveyance  to  the  de- 
sired point.  In  the  present  instance,  the  tree 
was  a  tall  straight  i)ine,  and  as  it  grew  perpendic- 
ularly, and  there  was  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring, 
the  beaver  could  have  felled  it  in  any  direction  he 
pleased,  if  r<?ally  c;ipable  of  exercising  a  discretion 
in  the  matter,  lie  was  evidently  engaged  in 
*^  belting "  the  tree,  and  his  lirst  incision  had 
been  on  the  side  nearest  to  the  water. 

Ca})tain  Bonneville,  however,  discredits,  on  the 
whole,  the  alleged  sagacity  of  the  beaver  in  this 
particular,  and  thinks  the  animal  has  no  other 
aim  than  to  get  the  tree  down,  without  any 
of  the  subtle  calculation  as  to  its  mode  or  direc- 
tion of  falling.  This  attribute,  he  thinks,  has 
been  ascribed  to  them  from  the  circumstance,  that 
most  trees  growing  near  water-courts,  either 
lean  bodily  towards  the  stream,  or  stretch  their 
largest  limbs  in  that  direction,  to  benefit  by  the 
space,  the  light,  and  the  air  to  be  found  there. 
The  beaver,  of  course,  attacks  those  trees  wdiich 
are  nearest  at  hand,  and  on  the  banks  of  the 
stream  or  pond.  He  makes  incisions  round 
them,  or,  in  technical  phrase,  l)elts  them  with  his 
Ceeth,  and  when  they  full,  they  naturally  take  the 


SAGACITY   OF    THE  BEAVER. 


267 


direction  in  which  tlieir  trunks  or  branches  pre- 
ponderate. 

*'  I  have  often,"  says  Captain  Bonneville,  "seen 
trees  measci'ing  eigiiteen  inches  in  diameter,  at 
the  places  where  they  had  been  cut  through  l)y 
the  beaver,  but  they  lay  in  all  directions,  and 
often  very  inconveniently  for  the  after  ])urpo?>es 
of  the  animal.  In  fact,  so  little  ini^enuity  do  th(;y 
at  times  display  in  this  particular,  that  at  one  of 
our  camps  on  Snake  Uiver,  a  beaver  was  found 
with  liis  head  wedged  into  the  cut  wliich  lie  had 
made,  the  tree  having  fallen  upon  him  and  h(;ld 
him  prisoner  until  he  died." 

Great  choice,  acconling  to  the  ciij)tain,  is  cer- 
tainly displayed  by  the  beaver  in  selecting  the 
wood  which  is  to  furnish  baric  for  winter  })ro- 
vision.  The  whole  beaver  household,  old  and 
young,  set  out  upon  this  business,  and  will  often 
make  long  journeys  before  they  are  suited. 
Sometimes  they  cut  down  trees  of  the  largest 
size  and  then  cull  the  brandies,  the  bark  of  whi(th 
is  most  to  their  taste.  These  tliey  cut  into 
lengths  of  about  three  feet,  convey  tlu»m  to  the 
water,  am.  float  them  to  their  lodges,  where  they 
are  stored  away  for  wint(3r.  They  are  stucUous 
of  cleanliness  and  comfort  in  their  Iodides,  and 
after  their  repasts,  will  carry  out  the  sticks  from 
which  they  have  eatcMi  the  l/:u-k,  and  throw  them 
hito  the  current  beyond  the  barrier.  They  are 
jealous,  too,  of  their  territories,  and  extremely 
pugnacious,  never  permitting  a  strange,  beaver  to 
enter  their  j)remises,  and  often  lighting  with  such 
virulence  as  almost  to  tear  each  other  to  pieces. 


T 

1 
I     1 

^1 

268 


B  ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VEN  7  URES. 


In  the  spring,  wliicli  is  the  breeding  seoson.  ♦h'^ 
male  Ic.  ves  the  female  at  home,  and  sets  oiT  or 
p.  tour  of  pleasure,  ramhiing  often  to  a  great  ('is- 
tance,  recreating  liimself  in  every  clear  and  quiet 
expanse  of  water  on  his  way,  and  climbing  the 
banks  occasionally  to  feast  upon  the  tender 
sprouts  of  the  young  willows.  As  summer  ad- 
vances, he  gives  up  his  bachelor  rambles,  and 
bethinking  hims<df  of  housekeeping  duties,  re- 
turns home  to  his  mate  and  his  new  progeny, 
and  marshals  them  all  for  the  foraging  expedition 
in  quest  of  winter  provisions. 

After  having  shown  the  public  spirit  of  this 
praiseworthy  little  animal  as  a  member  of  a  com- 
munity, and  his  amiable  and  exemplaiy  condu<'t 
as  the  father  of  a  family,  we  grieve  to  record  thn 
perils  with  which  he  is  environed,  and  the  snarco 
set  for  him  and  his  painstaking  household. 

Practice,  says  CapUiin  Jionneville,  has  given 
such  a  quickness  of  eye  to  the  experienced  trap- 
per in  all  that  relates  to  his  })ursuit,  that  he  (';ui 
detect  the  sliglitest  sign  of  beaver,  however  wild  ; 
and  although  the  lodge  may  be  concealed  by 
close  thickets  and  overhai),i-ii»^-  willows,  he  cjsn 
generally,  at  a  single  glanv  >  make  an  accurate 
guess  at  the  number  of  its  inmates,  lie  now 
joes  to  work  to  set  his  trap ;  planting  it  upon 
diie  shore,  in  some  chosen  place,  two  or  three 
i*\€fces  below  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  se- 
cures it  by  a  chain  to  a  pole  set  deep  in  the  mud. 
A  small  twig  is  then  stripped  of  its  l>ark,  and  one 
end  s  dipped  in  the  "medicine,"  as  the  trappers 
term  the  peculiar  Ijait  which  they  en)pIoy.     This 


l^ODE   OF   TRAPPING  BEAVER. 


269 


nr'l  of  tlie  stick  rises  about  four  Miches  ubove  tho 
surface  of  tho,  water,  the  other  end  is  phiuteil  be- 
tween the  jaw^  of  the  trap.  The  beaver,  pos- 
Bessiiif^  an  acute  sense  of  smell,  is  soon  attracted 
by  the  odor  of  the  bait.  As  he  raises  his  nose 
towards  it,  his  foot  is  caught  in  the  trap.  In  liis 
fright  lie  throws  a  somerset  into  the  deep  water 
The  trap,  being  fastened  to  the  pole,  resists  all 
his  efforts  to  drag  it  to  the  shore ;  the  chain  by 
which  it  is  fastened  defies  his  teeth ;  he  strufjfrles 
^  r  a  time,  and  at  length  sinks  to  the  bottom  and 
is  drowned. 

Upon  rocky  bottoms,  where  it  is  not  possible  to 
plant  the  pole,  it  is  thrown  into  the  streirin.  The 
beaver,  when  entrapped,  often  gets  fastened  by 
the  chain  to  sunken  loi^s  or  floatinij  timber ;  if  ho 
gets  to  shore,  he  is  entangled  in  the  thickets  of 
brook  willows.  In  such  cases,  however,  it  costs 
the  trapper  diligent  search,  and  sometimes  a  bout 
at  swimming,  before  he  finds  his  game.    • 

Occasionally  it  happens  that  several  members 
of  a  beaver  family  are  trapped  in  succession. 
The  survivors  then  become  extremely  shy,  and  Ciiii 
scarcely  be  "  brought  to  medicine,"  to  use  the  trap- 
per's phrase  for  ''  taking  the  b.'ut."  In  such  case, 
the  trapper  gives  up  the  use  of  the  bait,  and  con- 
ceals his  traj)s  in  the  usual  paths  and  crussing- 
places  of  the  household.  The  beaver  now  being 
completely  "  up  to  trap,"  approaches  them  cau- 
tiously, and  springs  them  ingeniously  with  a  stick. 
At  other  times,  he  turns  the  traps  bottom  upwards, 
by  the  same  means,  and  occasionally  even  drags 
Uiem  to  the  barrier  and  conceals  them  in  the  mud. 


*i??|mA] 

'' 

270 


BONNEV.fLLE'.H  ADVENTURES, 


The  trapper  now  gives  up  the  contest  of  ingenuity, 
and  shouldering  his  traps,  marclies  otF,  admitting 
that  he  is  not  yet  '•  up  to  heaver." 

On  the  day  lblh)wing  Captain  Bonneville's  su- 
pervision of  the  industrious  and  frolicsome  com- 
munity of  heavers,  of  which  he  has  given  so  edify- 
ing an  account,  he  succeeded  in  extricating  himself 
from  the  AVind  Kiver  JNIountains,  and  regaining 
the  plain  to  the  eastward,  made  a  great  bend  to 
tlie  south,  so  as  to  go  round  the  bases  of  the 
mountains,  and  arrived  witliout  furtlier  incident 
of  importance,  at  the  old  j)lace  of  rendezvous  in 
(ireen   River  Valley,  on   the    17th  of  September. 

lie  found  the  caches,  in  which  he  had  dej)osited 
his  sup(U'lluous  goods  and  e(iuipments,  all  safe,  and 
liaving  oj)ened  and  taken  fiom  them  the  necessary 
suppli<;s.  he  cIosimI  them  again  ;  tjiking  c-are  to 
obliterate  all  ti'aces  that  might  betray  them  to  the 
keen  eyes  of  Indian  marauders. 


11! 


'li 


I   J 


CHAPTER   XXVIT. 

Iioiite  towards  Wind  River.  —  DanfT'^'ous  neif;hhoihoo(l. — 
Alarms  and  prt-cautioiis.  —  A  isliam  ciicannnniMit.  —  A|>- 
paritioii  oCan  Indian  spy.  —  Midnight  move.  —  A  UKtuntain 
dclih;.  —  The  Wind  Hiver  Valley. —  Trai-kiii;!  a  party.— 
Deserted  camps.  —  Symptoms  of  Crow?  —  Meeting  of  com- 
rades.—  A  trapper  entrapped.  —  Crov«-  plfcasantry. —  ('row 
spies.  —  A  decampment.  —  K'etnrn  toCi'r^ii  Kiver  Valley.  — 
Meetinf^  with  I'"it/])atrick's  party  —  th  i.' advent uro**  among 
the  Crows.  — Orthodox  Crows. 


N  tlio  18th  of  September,  Ciiptuiii  Bon- 
neville and  liis  three  coin[):inion.s  set  out, 
bright  and  early,  to  rejoin  the  main  party, 
from  \vhi(;h  they  had  parted  on  Wind  liiver. 
Tlieir  route  hiy  up  the  Green  River  Valley,  with 
that  stream  on  their  riiiht  liand,  and  bevond  it, 
the  ran^e  of  Wind  River  Mountains.  At  tlio 
head  of  the  valley,  they  were  to  pass  through  a 
defile  whieh  would  bring  them  out  l)eyond  the 
northern  end  of  these  mountains,  to  tlie  head  of 
AVind  River ;  where  tliey  expected  to  meet  tlio 
main  ptirty,  according  to  arrangement. 

We  have  alretuly  advertc<l  to  the  dangerous 
nature  of  this  neigh])orh()od,  infested  by  rovin«» 
bands  of  Crows  and  Hlackfeet  ,  to  wliom  Xha  r.u- 
tncrous  defiles  and  passes  of  the  coimtry  afford 
capitiU  places  tor  ambush  and  surpiise.  The  trav- 
ellers, therefore,  kcjit  a  vigilant  eye  upon  every 
tiiir:}!  that  mii^ht  ;jive  intimation  of  lurkini;  danger. 


p 


I 


272 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


1i 


pt  m 


About  two  hours  after  midday,  as  they  reached 
the  summit  of  a  liill,  tliey  discovered  huffalo  on 
tlie  i»laiii  below,  running  in  every  direction.  One 
of  the  men,  too,  fancied  he  Iieard  tlie  report  of  a 
guiu  It  was  eonchided,  therefore,  that  tiiere  was 
Bcme  party  of  Inchans  below,  hunting  the  buffalo. 

The  horses  were  innnediately  concealed  in  a 
narrow  ravine;  and  the  ciiptain,  mounting  an  emi- 
nence, but  concealing  himself  from  view,  reconnoi- 
tred the  whole  neighborhood  with  a  telescope. 
Not  an  Indian  was  to  be  seen ;  so,  after  haltinij 
about  an  hour,  he  resumed  his  journey.  Con- 
vinced, however,  that  he  was  in  a  <l:inixerou.s 
ntiighborhood,  he  a<lvanced  with  the  utmost  cau- 
tion ;  windimi  his  way  throu<di  hollows  and  ravines, 
and  avoiding,  as  much  as  possible,  any  open  tract, 
or  rising  ground,  that  might  betray  his  little  party 
to  the  watchful  eve  of  an  Indian  scout. 

Arriving,  at  length,  at  the  edge  of  the  open 
meadow-land  borderinfj  on  the  river,  he  ajjain 
observed  the  butfalo,  as  far  as  he  could  see,  scam- 
p(M*ing  in  great  alarm.  Once  more  concealing  the 
Ik  jses,  he  and  his  com})anions  remained  for  a  long 
time  watching  the  various  groups  of  the  animals, 
as  each  auight  the  panic  and  started  off;  but  they 
sought  in  vain  to  discover  the  cause. 

They  were  now  about  to  enter  the  mountain 
dofile,  at  the  head  of  Green  Kiver  Valley,  where 
they  might  be  waylaid  and  attiicked ;  they,  there- 
fore, arranged  the  j)acks  on  their  horses,  in  the 
manner  most  secure  and  convenient  for  sudden 
flight,  should  such  be  necessary.  This  done,  they 
aij^ain  set  forward,  kee!)in<'  the  most  anxious  look- 
out  in  every  direction. 


Ifn 


A   8nA}f  E^CASfPSfENT. 


273 


nt.Vm 
'here 
lere- 
the 
fldeii 
they 
ook- 


It  was  now  (Irawhiir  tnwanls  eveniiiir ;  l)Ut  tliey 
could  not  tliiiik  of  encamping  for  the  night,  in  a 
phice  so  full  of  (lunger.  Captiiin  IJonneville,  there- 
fore, determined  to  halt  alxjut  sunset,  kindle  a  fire, 
HH  if  for  encampment,  to  cfXik  and  eat  suppei* ; 
but,  as  soon  as  it  was  sutficiently  dark,  to  make  a 
rapid  move  for  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and 
seek  some  secluded  spot  for  their  night's  lodgings. 

Accordingly,  as  the  sun  went  down,  the  little 
party  came  to  a  halt,  made  a  large  fire,  si)itted 
their  buffalo  meat  on  wooden  sticks,  and,  when 
Kuiriciently  roasted,  plantefl  the  savory  viands 
before  them  ;  cutting  off  hujfe  slices  with  their 
hunting  knives,  and  supping  with  a  hunter's  ap- 
petite. The  light  of  their  fire  would  not  fail,  as 
they  knew,  to  attract  the  attention  of  any  Indian 
horde  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  they  trusted  to 
be  off  and  away,  before  any  [irowlers  could  reach 
the  })lace.  While  they  were  supping  thus  hastily, 
however,  one  of  thcjir  party  suddenly  started  up, 
and  shouted  "  Indians  !  "  All  were  instiuitly  on 
their  feet,  with  their  rifles  in  their  hands  ;  but 
could  see  no  enemy.  The  raan,  however,  de- 
clared that  he  had  seen  an  Indian  advancing, 
cautiously,  along  the  trail  which  they  had  made  iu 
coming  to  the  encampment ;  wlio,  the  moment  he 
was  perceived,  had  thrown  himself  on  the  ground, 
and  disappeared,  lie  urged  Captain  Bonneville 
instantly  to  decamp.  The  captain,  however,  took 
the  matter  more  coolly.  The  single  fact,  that  the 
Indian  had  endeavored  to  hide  himself,  convinced 
him  that  he  was  not  one  of  a  party,  on  the  ad- 
vance  to   make   an  attack.     He   was,   probably. 

IS 


ffjiil 


i 


274 


liOSSrA'ILLI'TB  ADVESTURE  5. 


Bomc  scout,  who  h.ul  follow*^!  tip  their  trail,  luitil 
ho  came  in  si^lit  of  tlioir  lire.  lie  would,  in 
Bucli  case,  return,  and  report  what  he  had  seen  to 
his  companions.  These,  supposin;L(  the  white  men 
had  encamped  for  the  nii^ht,  woul<l  keep  alonf 
until  very  hite,  when  all  should  be  asleep.  They 
would,  then,  accor<lin<^  to  Indian  tactics,  make 
their  stealthy  approaches,  and  j)lace  themselves  in 
aml)ush  around,  {)reparatory  to  their  atUick,  at 
the  usual  hour  of  diiy light. 

vSuch  was  Captain  Bonneville's  conclusion  ;  in 
conse(pience  of  which,  he  counselled  his  men  to 
keep  perfectly  (juiet,  and  act  as  if  free  from  all 
alarm,  until  the  proper  time  arrived  for  a  move. 
They,  accordingly,  continued  their  repast  with 
pretended  appetite  and  jollity ;  and  then  trimmed 
and  replenished  their  tire,  as  if  for  a  bivouac. 
As  soon,  however,  as  the  night  had  completely 
set  in,  they  left  their  fire  blazing  ;  walked  quietly 
among  the  willows,  and  then  leaping  into  their 
saddles,  made  off  as  noiselessly  as  possible.  In 
proportion  as  they  left  the  point  of  danger  behind 
themy  they  relaxed  in  their  rigid  and  anxious  taci- 
turnity, and  began  to  joke  at  the  exi)ense  of  their 
enemy ;  whom  they  pictured  to  themselves  mous- 
ins:  in  the  neiijjhborhood  of  their  deserted  fire, 
waiting  for  the  proper  time  of  attack,  and  pre- 
paring for  a  grand  disappointment. 

About  midnight,  feeling  satisfied  that  they  had 
gained  a  secure  distance,  they  posted  one  of  their 
number  to  keep  watch,  in  case  the  enemy  should 
follow  on  their  trail,  and  then,  turning  abruptly 
into  a  dense  and  matted  thicket  of  willows,  halted 


it^ii' 


GIVING    THE  INDIANS   TIlE  SLIP.       275 

for  the  fiiglit  at  the  foot  of  the  mountani,  iiistoiid 
of  making  for  tlio  summit,  as  they  had  originally 
hitended. 

A  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  like  a  sailor  on 
the  ocean,  snatches  morsels  of  enjoymont  in  the 
midst  of  trouhle,  and  sleeps  soundly  when  sur- 
rounded hy  <langer.  The  little  party  now  ma<le 
their  arrangements  for  sleep  with  perfect  calmness* 
they  did  not  venture  to  make  a  fire  and  cook,  it 
is  true,  though  generally  done  hy  hunters  when- 
ever they  come  to  a  halt,  and  have  provisions. 
They  comforted  tluunselves,  liowever,  hy  smoking 
a  tranquil  pipe ;  and  then  calling  in  the  watch, 
and  turning  loose  the  horses,  stretched  themselves 
on  their  pallets,  agreed  that  whoever  should  lirst 
awake,  should  rouse  the  rest,  and  in  a  little  while 
were  all  in  as  sound  sleep  as  though  in  the  midst 
of  a  fortress. 

A  little  hefore  day,  they  were  all  on  tlie  alort ; 
it  was  the  hour  for  Indian  marau<l.  A  sentinel 
was  immediately  detached,  to  post  himself  at  a 
little  distance  on  their  trail,  and  give  the  alarm, 
fihould  he  see  or  hear  an  enemy. 

AVith  the  first  blink  of  dawn,  the  rest  sought 
the  horses  ;  brought  them  to  the  Gimp,  and  tied 
them  up,  until  an  hour  after  sunrise  ;  when,  the 
sentinel  having  reported  that  all  was  well,  they 
sprang  once  more  into  their  saddles,  and  pursued 
the  most  covert  and  secret  paths  up  the  mountain, 
avoiding  the  direct  route. 

At  noon,  they  halted  and  made  a  hasty  repast ; 
and  then  bent  their  course  so  as  to  regain  the 
route  from  wliich  they  had  diverged.     They  wero 


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276 


B  ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


Wf^ 


now  made  sensible  of  the  clanger  from  whicli  they 
had  just  escaped.  There  were  tracks  of  Indians 
who  had  evidently  been  in  pursuit  of  them;  but 
liad  recently  returned,  baffletl  in  their  search. 

Trusting  that  they  had  now  got  a  fair  start, 
and  could  not  be  overtaken  before  night,  even  ir 
case  the  Indians  should  renew  the  chase,  they 
pushed  briskly  forward,  and  did  not  encamp  until 
late ;  when  they  cautiously  concealed  themselves 
in  a  secure  nook  of  the  mountains. 

Without  any  further  alarm,  they  made  their 
way  to  the  head  waters  of  "Wind  River,  and 
reached  the  neighborhood  in  which  they  had 
appointed  the  rendezvous  with  their  comprnions. 
It  was  within  the  precincts  of  the  Crow  country ; 
the  Wind  River  Valley  being  one  of  the  favorito 
haunts  of  that  restless  tribe.  After  much  search- 
ing. Captain  Bonneville  came  upon  a  trail  which 
had  evidently  been  made  by  his  main  party.  It 
was  so  old,  however,  that  he  feared  his  people 
might  have  left  the  neighborhood ;  driven  off, 
perhaps,  by  some  of  those  war  parties  which 
were  on  the  prowl.  He  continued  his  search 
with  great  anxiety,  and  no  little  f  tigue  ;  for  his 
horses  ^^^ere  jaded,  and  almost  crippled,  by  their 
forced  marches  and  scramblings  through  rocky 
defiles. 

On  the  following  day,  about  noon.  Captain 
Bonneville  came  upon  a  deserted  camp  of  his 
people,  from  which  they  had,  evidently,  turned 
back  ;  but  he  could  find  no  signs  to  indicate  why 
they  had  done  so  ;  whether  they  had  met  with 
misfortune,  or  molestation,  or  in  what  direction 


ANXIETY   OF   THE   CAPTAIN. 


277 


I  they 
idians 
l;  but 
1. 

start, 
ven  ip 
,  they 
:)  until 
iselves 


T 


their 
and 
y  had 
L^nions. 
(untry ; 
iivorito 
search- 
l  which 


y 


It 

jeople 
en  off, 
which 
search 
br  his 
y  their 
rocky 

laptain 
of  his 
turned 
te  why 
t  with 
ection 


tliey  liad  gone.  lie  was  now,  more  than  ever, 
perplexed. 

On  the  following  day,  he  resumed  his  march 
with  increasing  anxiety.  The  feet  of  his  horses 
had  by  this  time  become  so  worn  and  wounded  by 
the  rocks,  that  he  had  to  make  moccasins  for 
tliem  of  buffalo  hide.  About  noon,  he  came  to 
another  deserted  camp  of  his  men  ;  but  soon  after 
.ost  their  trail.  After  great  search,  he  once  more 
found  it,  turning  in  a  southerly  direction  along 
the  eastern  bases  of  the  AVind  River  Mountains, 
which  towered  to  the  right.  lie  now  pushed 
forward  with  all  possible  speed,  in  hopes  of  over- 
taking the  party.  At  night,  he  slept  at  another 
of  their  camps,  from  wpich  they  had  but  recently 
departed.  AATien  the  day  dawned  sufficiently  to 
distinguish  objects,  he  perceived  tl:e  danger  that 
must  be  dogging  the  heels  of  his  main  p,  ty. 
All  about  tlie  camp  were  traces  of  Indians,  who 
must  have  been  prowling  about  it  at  the  time  his 
people  had  passed  the  night  there  ;  and  who  must 
still  be  hovering  about  them.  Convinced,  now, 
that  the  main  party  could  not  be  at  any  great 
distance,  he  mounted  a  scout  on  the  best  horse, 
and  sent  him  forward  to  overtake  them,  to  warn 
them  of  their  danger,  and  to  order  them  to  halt, 
until  he  should  rejoin  them. 

In  the  afternoon,  to  his  great  joy,  he  met  the 
scout  returning,  with  six  comrades  from  the  main 
party,  loadmg  fresh  horses  for  his  accommodation  ; 
and  on  the  following  day  (September  25th),  all 
hands  were  once  more  reunitt^d,  after  a  separa- 
tion of  nearly  three  weeks.     Their  meeting  was 


278 


D ONNE  VILLtr S  AD  VEN T URES. 


hearty  a,iHl  joyous ;  for  tliey  had  both  ex- 
perienced dangers  and  perplexities. 

The  main  party,  in  pursuing  their  course  up 
the  "Wind  Uiver  Valley,  had  been  dogged  the  whole 
way  by  a  war  party  of  Crows.  In  one  place, 
they  had  been  fired  upon,  but  without  injury ;  hi 
another  place,  one  of  their  horses  had  been  cut 
loose,  and  carried  off.  At  length,  they  were  so 
closely  beset,  that  they  were  obliged  to  make  a 
retrograde  move,  lest  they  should  be  surprised  and 
overcome,  lliis  was  the  movement  which  had 
caused  such  perplexity  to  C^aptain  Bonneville. 

The  whole  party  now  remained  encamped  for 
two  or  three  days,  to  give  repose  to  both  men  and 
horses.  Some  of  the  trappers,  however,  pursued 
their  vocations  about  the  neighboring  streams. 
While  one  of  them  was  setting  his  traps,  he 
heard  the  tramp  of  horses,  find  looking  up,  be- 
held a  party  of  Crow  braves  moving  along  at  no 
great  distance,  with  a  considerable  cavalcade. 
The  trapper  hastened  to  conceal  himself,  but  was 
discerned  by  the  quick  eye  of  the  savages.  With 
whoops  and  yells,  they  dragged  him  from  his  hid- 
ing-place, flourished  over  his  head  their  toma- 
hawks and  seal  ping-knives,  and  for  a  time,  the 
poor  trapper  gave  himself  up  for  lost.  Fortu- 
nately, the  Crows  were  in  a  jocose,  rather  than  a 
sanguinary  mood.  They  amused  themselves 
heartily,  for  a  while,  at  the  expense  of  his  ter- 
rors ;  and  after  having  played  off  divers  Crow 
pranks  and  pleasantries,  suffered  him  to  depart 
unharmed.  It  is  true,  they  stripped  him  com- 
pletely, one  taking  his  horse,  another  liis  gun,  a 


) 


THE   TRAPPER  ENTRAPPED. 


279 


third  his  traps,  a  fourth  his  hhinket,  and  so  on, 
through  all  his  accoutremeuts,  and  even  his  cloth- 
in;^,  until  he  was  stark  naked  ;  but  then  they  gen- 
erously made  him  a  present  of  an  old  tattered 
bulfalo  robe,  and  dismissed  him,  with  many  com- 
plimentary speeches,  and  much  laughter.  When 
the  trapper  returned  to  the  camp,  in  sucli  sorry 
phght,  ho  was  greeted  with  peals  of  laughter  from 
his  comrades,  and  seemed  more  mortified  by  the 
style  in  which  he  had  been  dismissed,  than  re- 
joiced at  escaphig  with  his  life.  A  circumstance 
which  he  related  to  Captain  Bonneville,  gave 
some  insight  into  the  cause  of  this  extreme  jocu- 
larity on  the  part  of  the  Crows.  They  had  evi- 
dently had  a  run  of  luck,  and,  like  winning 
gamblers,  were  in  high  good  humor.  Among 
twenty-six  fine  horses,  and  some  mules,  which 
composed  their  cavalcade,  i\\v,  trapper  recognized 
a  number  which  had  belonged  to  Fitzpatrick's 
brigade,  when  they  parted  company  on  the  Big- 
norn.  It  was  "supposed,  therefore,  that  these 
vagabonds  had  been  on  his  ti'ail,  and  robbed  him 
of  part  of  his  cavalry. 

On  the  day  following  this  affair,  three  Crows 
came  into  Captain  Bonneville's  camp,  with  the 
most  easy,  innocent,  if  not  impudent  air  imagin- 
able ;  walking  about  with  that  imperturbable 
coolness  and  unconcern,  in  which  the  Indian 
rivals  the  fine  gentleman.  As  they  had  not  been 
of  the  set  which  stripped  the  trapper,  though 
evidently  of  the  same  band,  they  were  not 
molested.  Indeed,  Captain  Bonneville  treated 
tliem  V  ith  his  usual    kindness    and    hospitality^ 


■"? 


280 


B ONJNE  VILLE^S  AD  VENTURES. 


m 


4 


permittiiig  them  to  remain  all  day  in  the  camp, 
and  even  to  pass  the  ni<|lit  there.  At  the  same 
time,  however,  he  caused  a  strict  watch  to  bo 
maintained  on  all  their  movements ;  and  at  night, 
stationed  an  armed  sentinel  near  them.  The 
Crows  remonstrated  against  the  latter  being 
armed.  This  only  made  the  captain  suspect  them 
to  be  spies,  who  meditated  treachery ;  he  re- 
doubled, therefore,  his  precautions.  At  the  same 
time,  he  assured  his  guests,  that  while  they  were 
perfectly  welcome  to  the  shelter  and  comfort  of 
his  camp,  yet,  should  any  of  their  tribe  venture 
to  approach  during  the  night,  they  would 
certainly  be  shot ;  which  would  be  a  very  unfor- 
tunate circumstance,  and  much  to  be  deplored. 
To  the  latter  remark,  they  fully  assented ;  and 
shortly  afterward  commenced  a  wild  song,  or 
chant,  which  they  kept  up  for  a  long  time,  and  in 
which,  they  very  probably  gave  their  friends, 
who  might  be  prowling  around  the  camp,  notice 
that  the  white  men  were  on  the  alert.  The 
night  passed  away  without  disturbance.  In  the 
morning,  the  three  Crow  guests  were  very  press- 
ing that  Captain  Boimeville  and  his  party  should 
accompany  tliem  to  their  camp,  Avhich  they  said 
was  close  by.  Instead  of  accepting  their  in- 
vitation. Captain  Bonneville  took  his  departure 
with  all  possible  dispatch,  eager  to  be  out  of  the 
vicinity  of  such  a  piratical  horde ;  nor  did  he 
tt3lax  the  diligence  of  his  march,  until,  on  the 
8e(X)nd  day,  he  reached  the  banks  of  the  Sweet 
Water,  beyond  the  limits  of  the  Crow  country, 
and  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  had  obliterated  all 
traces  of  his  course. 


TRAIL    OF  A  PARTY   OF  CROWS.        281 


aM 


r 


Tho 


lie  now  continued  on  for  some  few  days,  at  a 
Blower  p:ice,  round  the  point  of  the  mountiiiii 
towards  Green  Rive:,  and  arrived  once  more  at 
the  caches,  on  the  !4th  of  October. 

Here  tliey  fourd  traces  of  the  band  of  Indians 
who  had  hunted  them  in  the  defile  towards  tho 
head  waters  of  Wind  Kiver.  Ilavinix  lost  all 
trace  of  them  on  their  way  over  the  mountains, 
they  had  turned  and  followed  back  their  trail 
down  Green  River  Valley  to  the  caches.  One  of 
tliese  they  had  discovered  and  broken  open,  but 
it  tbrtunately  contahied  nothing  but  fragments  of 
old  iron,  which  they  had  scattered  about  in  all 
directions,  and  then  departed.  In  examining 
their  deserted  camp,  Captiiin  Bonneville  dis- 
covered that  it  nunxbered  thirty-nine  fires,  and 
had  more  reason  than  ever  to  coni][ratulate  him- 
self  on  havhig  escaped  the  clutches  of  such  a  for- 
midable band  of  freebooters. 

He  now  turned  his  course  southward,  under 
cover  of  the  mountains,  and  on  the  2oth  of 
October  reached  Liberge's  Ford,  a  tributary  of 
the  Colorado,  where  he  came  suddenly  upon  the 
trail  of  this  same  war  party,  which  had  crossed 
the  stream  so  recently,  that  the  banks  were  yet 
wet  with  the  water  that  had  been  splashed  upon 
them.  To  judge  from  their  tracks,  they  could 
not  be  less  than  three  hundred  warriors,  and 
apparently  of  the  Crow  nation. 

Captain  Bonneville  was  extremely  uneasy  lest 
this  overpowering  force  should  come  upon  him  in 
some  place  where  he  woidd  not  have  the  means 
of  fortilying  himself  promptly.      He  now  moved 


ll: 


m 


282 


B  OyNE  VILLE' S  AD  VEN  TUBES. 


towards  Hane*s  Fork,  another  tributary  of  the 
Colorado,  where  he  encamped,  and  remained 
during  the  2GtIi  of  October.  Seeing  a  large 
cloud  of  smoke  to  the  south,  he  supposed  it  to 
arise  from  some  encampment  of  Shoshonies,  and 
sent  scouts  to  procure  information,  and  to 
purchase  a  lodge.  It  was,  in  fact,  a  band  of 
Shoshonies,  but  with  them  were  encamped  Fitz- 
patiick  and  liis  party  of  trappsrs.  That  active 
leader  had  an  eventful  story  to  relate  of  his 
fortunes  in  the  country  of  the  Crows.  After 
parting  with  Captain  Bonneville  on  the  banks  of 
the  Bighorn,  he  made  for  the  west,  to  trap  upon 
Powder  and  Tongue  rivers.  He  had  between 
twenty  and  thirty  men  with  him,  and  about  one 
hundred  horses.  So  large  a  cavalcade  could  not 
pass  through  the  Crow  country  without  attracting 
the  attention  of  its  freebooting  hordes.  A  large 
^and  of  Crows  were  soon  on  their  traces,  and 
came  up  with  them  on  the  5th  of  September,  just 
as  they  had  reached  Tongue  River.  The  Crow 
chief  came  forvard  with  great  appearance  of 
friendship,  and  proposed  to  Fitzpatrick  that  they 
should  encamp  together.  The  latter,  however, 
not  having  any  faith  in  Crows,  declined  the  in- 
vitation, and  pitched  his  camp  three  miles  off. 
He  then  rode  over,  with  two  or  three  men,  to 
visit  the  Crow  chief,  by  whom  he  was  received 
with  great  apparent  cordiality.  In  the  mean- 
time, however,  a  party  of  young  braves,  who 
considered  them  absolved  by  liis  distrust  from  ail 
scruples  of  honor,  made  a  circuit  privately,  and 
dashed  hi  to  his  encampment.      Captahi  Stewart, 


FITZPATRWK  AND   THE   CHOWS. 


283 


off. 


nrho  had  remained  there  in  the  absence  of  Fitz- 
patrick,  behaved  with  gieat  spirit;  but  the 
Crows  were  too  numerous  and  active.  They  luid 
got  possession  f  the  ciimp,  and  soon  made  booty 
of  everythhig  —  carryiiig  ott'  all  the  horses.  On 
their  way  back  they  met  Fitzpatrick  returning  to 
his  camp ;  and  finished  their  exploit  by  rifling 
and  nearly  stripping  him. 

A  negotiation  now  took  place  between  the 
plundered  white  men  and  the  triumphant  Crows  ; 
what  eloquence  and  management  Fitzpatrick 
made  use  of,  we  do  net  know,  but  he  succeeded 
in  prevailing  upon  the  Crow  chieftain  to  return 
him  his  horses  and  many  of  his  traps  ;  together 
with  his  rifles  ant?  a  few  rounds  of  ammunition 
for  each  man.  He  then  set  out  with  all  speed  to 
abandon  the  Crow  country,  before  he  should  meet 
with  any  fresh  disasters. 

After  his  departure,  the  consciences  of  some 
of  i,he  most  orthodox  Crows  pricked  them  sorely 
for  having  suffered  such  a  cavalcade  to  escape 
out  of  their  hands.  Anxious  to  wipe  off  so  foul 
D,  stigma  on  the  reputation  of  the  Crow  nation, 
they  followed  on  his  trail,  nor  quit  hovering 
about  him  on  his  march  until  they  had  stolen  a 
number  of  his  best  horses  and  mules.  It  was, 
doubtless,  this  same  band  which  came  upon  the 
lonely  trapper  on  the  Popo  Agie,  and  generously 
gave  him  an  old  buffalo  robe  in  exchange  for  his 
rifle,  Tiis  traps,  and  all  his  accoutrements.  With 
these  anecdotes,  we  shall,  lor  the  present,  take 
our  leave  of  the  Crow  country  and  its  vagabond 
cliivalry. 


!  i 

f 


f!|ii 


I  * 


ill^i 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 

A  vjgion  of  nntural  ouriositios.  —  The  plain  of  wliite  clay. — 
Hot  springs.  —The  Hcer  Spring.  —  Departure  to  seek  the 
free  trappers.  —  I'lain  of  I'ortneuf.  —  Lava.  —  Chasms  an«( 

gullies.  —  Uanneck  Indians  —  their  hunt  of  the  huflalo 

Hunters'  fi'ast.  —  Trencher  heroes.  —  I'.ullying  of  an  ahsvnt 
foe.  —  The  damp  lonirade. — The  Indian  sjn'. —  Meeting 
with  Hodgkiss — liis  adventures.  —  Poordevil  Indians. — 
Triumph  of  the  IJanneeks.  —  iJlackfeet  policy  in  war. 

ROSSING  an  elevate^!  riclf^o,  Caj)taiii 
Boiiiioville  now  came  upon  liear  Kivor, 
which,  from  its  source  to  its  entrance 
into  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  describes  tlie  fii;ure  of 
a  horseshoe.  One  of  the  principal  liead  waters 
of  this  river,  altliough  supposed  to  abound  witli 
beaver,  lias  never  been  visited  by  the  trap[)er  ; 
risiuiT  amoisi?  ruirircd  mountains,  and  beini;  bar- 
ricadoed  by  fallen  pine-trees  and  tremendous  prec- 
ipices. 

Proceeding  down  this  river,  the  party  en- 
Cimiped,  on  the  Gth  of  November,  at  the  outlet 
of  a  lake  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  from  two 
to  three  miles  in  width,  completely  imbedded  in 
low  ranges  of  mountains,  and  connected  with 
Bear  River  by  an  impassable  swamp.  It  is  called 
the  Little  Lake,  to  disthiguish  it  from  the  great 
one  of  salt  water. 

On  the  10th  of  November,  Captain  Bonneville 


^m 


BEER   SPRING. 


2o5 


visited  a  place  in  tlio  neighborhood  whicli  is  quite 
a  n'«^ion  of  niituni.  curiosities.  An  iireii  of 
about  half  a  mile  square  presents  a  level  surface 
of  white  clay  or  fullers'  earth,  perfectly  spotless, 
r(!seinbling  a  jnjreat  slab  of  l*arian  niarbhi,  or  a 
she(5t  of  daz/Jiui^  snow.  The  effect  is  strii<iiij;dy 
beautiful  at  all  times :  in  summer,  when  it  is  sur- 
rounded with  verdure,  or  in  autumn,  when  it 
contrasts  its  bri<;ht  immaculate  surface  with  the 
withered  herbaw.  Seen  from  a  distant  emi- 
nence,  it  then  shines  like  a  mirror,  set  in  tho 
brown  landscape.  Around  this  plain  are  clus- 
tered mnnerous  sprinj^^s  of  various  sizes  and 
tem[)eratures.  One  of  them,  of  scalding  heat, 
boils  furiously  and  "ncessantly,  rising  to  tho 
height  of  two  or  three  feet.  In  another  place, 
there  is  an  aperture  in  the  earth,  from  which 
rushes  a  column  of  steam  that  forms  a  perpetual 
cloud.  The  ground  for  some  distance  around 
sounds  hollow,  and  startles  the  solitary  trapper, 
as  he  hears  the  tramp  of  his  horse  giving  the 
sound  of  a  nmflled  drum.  He  pictures  to  him- 
self a  mysterious  gulf  below,  a  place  of  hidden 
fires,  and  gazes  round  him  with  awe  and  uneasi- 


ness. 


The  most  noted  curiosity,  however,  of  this 
singular  region,  k  the  Beer  Spring^  of  which 
trappers  give  wonderful  accounts.  They  are 
said  to  turn  aside  from  their  route  throuijh  the 
coimtry  to  drink  of  its  waters,  with  as  much 
eagerness  as  the  Arab  seeks  some  famous  well 
of  the  desert.  Captain  Bonneville  describes  it 
as  havinir  the  taste  of  beer.     His  men  drank  it 


I!} 


p 


286 


BONNEVILLF?S  At9VKNTURF8. 


Plri 


'm 


m 

M 

1 

^B; 

., 

i,„t_ 

1,,,^,, 

,  vi »  i ' 

H 

HH 1 

^  H 

^^^Hi 

1 

i 

a 

^^ 

with  avidity,  and  in  copious  draughts.  It  did 
not  appear  to  him  to  possess  any  medicinal  prop- 
erties, or  to  produce  any  peculiar  effects.  The 
Indians,  however,  refuse  to  taste  it,  and  endeavor 
to  ptirsuade  the  white  men  from  doing  so. 

We  have  heard  this  also  called  the  Soda  Spring, 
and  described  as  containing  iron  and  sulphur.  It 
probably  possesses  some  of  the  properties  of  the 
IJallston  water. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  for  Captain  Bonne- 
ville to  go  in  quest  of  the  party  of  free  trappers, 
detached  in  the  beginning  of  July,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Mr.  Hodgkiss,  to  trap  upon  the  liead 
waters  of  Salmon  River.  His  intention  was  to 
unite  them  with  the  party  with  which  he  was  at 
present  travelling,  that  all  might  go  into  quarters 
together  for  the  winter.  Accordingly,  on  the 
11th  of  November,  he  took  a  temporary  leave 
of  his  band,  appointing  a  rendezvous  on  Snake 
River,  and,  accompanied  by  three  men,  set  out 
upon  his  journey.  His  route  lay  across  the 
plain  of  the  Portneuf,  a  tributary  stream  of 
Snake  River,  called  after  an  unfortunate  Cana- 
dian trapper,  murdered  by  the  Indians.  The 
whole  country  through  which  he  passed,  bore 
evidence  of  volcanic  convulsions  and  conflagra- 
tions in  the  olden  time.  Great  masses  of  lava 
lay  scattered  about  in  every  direction  ;  the  crags 
and  cliffs  had  apparently  been  under  the  action 
of  fire  ;  the  rocks  in  some  places  seemed  to  have 
been  in  a  state  of  fusion ;  the  plain  was  rent  and 
split  with  deep  chasms  and  gullies,  some  of  which 
were  partly  filled  with  lava. 


BAN  NECK  INDIANS. 


2H7 


Tli(;y  had  not  proceeded  fur,  howcvfT,  beforo 
they  saw  a  party  of  horsemen,  <^allopln«^  lull  tilt 
towards  them.  They  instiintly  turned,  and  made 
full  speed  for  the  covert  of  a  woody  stream,  to 
fortify  themselves  anion i^  the  trees.  The  Indians 
came  to  a  halt,  and  one  of  them  cjime  forward 
alone.  He  reached  Captain  Bonneville  and  his 
men  just  as  they  were  dismount in<;  and  al)o\it  to 
post  themselves.  A  few  words  disp(!lled  all  un- 
easiness. It  was  a  party  of  twenty-five  Banneck 
Indians,  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  they  pr()pose<l, 
through  their  envoy,  that  both  parties  should  (mi- 
camp  together,  and  hunt  the  buffalo,  of  which 
they  had  discovered  several  large  herds  hard  by. 
Captain  Bonneville  cheerfully  assented  to  their 
proposition,  being  curious  to  see  their  manner  of 
hunting. 

Both  parties  accordingly  encamped  together  on 
a  convenient  spot,  and  prepared  for  the  hunt. 
The  Indians  first  posted  a  boy  on  a  small  hill 
near  the  camp,  to  keep  a  lookout  for  enemies. 
The  "  runners,"  then,  as  they  are  called,  mounted 
on  Heet  horses,  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
moved  slowly  and  cautiously  toward  the  })uffalo, 
keeping  as  much  as  possible  out  of  sight,  in  hol- 
ows  and  ravines.  When  within  a  proper  dis- 
tance, a  signal  was  given,  and  they  all  opened  at 
once  like  a  pack  of  hounds,  with  a  full  chorus  of 
yells,  dashing  into  the  middle  of  the  herds,  and 
launching  their  arrows  to  the  right  and  left.  The 
j)lain  seemed  absolutely  to  shake  under  the  tramp 
of  the  buffalo,  as  they  scoured  off.  The  cows  in 
headlong  panic,  the  bulls  furious  with  rage,  utter- 


288 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ing  deep  roars,  and  occasionally  turning  with  a 
desperate  rush  upon  their  pursuers.  Nothing 
could  surpass  the  spirit,  grace,  and  dexterity,  with 
which  the  Indians  manaocd  their  horses  ;  wheel- 
ino;  and  coursing  amons:  the  affrighted  herd,  and 
launchiiii;  their  arrows  with  unerrinij  aim.  Iii 
the  midst  of  the  apparent  confusion,  they  selected 
their  victims  with  perfect  judgment,  generally 
aiming  at  the  fattest  of  the  cows,  the  flesh  of  the 
bull  being  nearly  worthless,  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  In  a  few  minutes,  each  of  the  hunters  had 
crippled  three  or  four  cows.  A  single  shot  was 
suilicient  for  the  purpose,  and  the  animal,  once 
maimed,  was  left  to  be  completely  dispatched  at 
the  end  of  the  chase.  Frequently,  a  cow  ws^ 
killed  on  the  spot  by  a  single  arrow.  In  one  in- 
Btance,  Captain  Bonneville  saw  an  Indian  shoot 
his  arrow  completely  through  the  body  of  a  covt, 
so  tliat  it  struck  in  the  ground  beyond.  The 
bulls,  however,  are  not  so  easily  killed  as  the 
cows,  and  alwaj^s  cost  the  hunter  several  ar- 
rows, sometimes  making  battle  upon  the  horses, 
and  chasing  them  furiously,  tliougn  severely 
wounded,  with  the  darts  still  sticking  in  their 
flesh. 

The  grand  scamper  of  the  hunt  being  over,  ^he 
Indians  proceeded  to  dispatch  the  animals  that 
had  been  disabled ;  then  cutting  up  the  carcasses, 
they  returned  with  loads  of  meat  to  tlie  camp, 
where  the  choicest  pieces  were  soon  roasting  be- 
fore large  fires,  and  a  hunters'  feast  succeeded ; 
at  which  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  were 
qualified,  by  previous  fastmg,  to  perform  their 
pjirts  with  great  vigor. 


II 


FIGHTING    THE   WIND. 


289 


Sonic  men  are  said  tx)  wax  valorous  upon  a 
full  stomach,  and  such  seemed  to  be  the  case  with 
tire  Ban  neck  braves,  who,  in  proportion  as  they 
crammed  tli'3mselves  with  aflfalo  meat,  grew 
stout  of  heart,  until,  the  supper  at  an  end,  they 
'jc^ran  to  chai:t  war  songs,  setting  forth  tlieir 
mighty  deeds,  ai:d  the  victories  they  had  gained 
over  the  Blackfeet,  Warming  with  the  theme, 
ana  iiiHating  themselves  with  their  own  eulogies, 
these  magnanimous  heroes  of  the  trencher  would 
start  up,  advance  a  short  distance  beyond  the 
light  of  the  fire,  and  apostrophize  most  vehe- 
mently their  Blackfeet  enemies,  as  though  they 
had  been  within  hearing.  Ruffling,  and  swell- 
nig,  and  snorting,  and  slapping  their  breasts,  and 
brandishing  their  arms,  they  would  vociferate  all 
their  exploits  ;  reminding  the  Blackfeet  how  they 
had  drenched  their  towns  in  tears  and  blood ;  enu- 
merate the  blows  they  had  inflicted,  the  warriors 
they  had  slain,  the  scalps  they  had  brought  off  in 
triumph.  Then,  having  said  everything  that 
could  stir  a  man's  spleen  or  pique  his  valor,  they 
would  dare  their  imaginary  hearers,  now  that  the 
Bannecks  were  few  in  number,  to  come  and  take 
their  revenge  —  receiving  no  reply  to  this  valor- 
ous bravado,  they  would  conclude  by  all  kinds  of 
sneers  and  insults,  deriding  the  Blackfeet  for  das- 
tards and  poltroons,  that  dared  not  accept  their 
challenge.  Such  is  the  kind  cl'  swaggering  and 
rodomontade  in  which  the  "  red  men  "  are  prone 
to  indulge  in  their  vainglorious  moments ;  for, 
with  all  their  vaunt^jd  tiiciturnity,  they  are  vehe- 
mently prone  at  times  to  become  eloquent  about 

19 


'  I 


im. 


290 


B  ONNE  VILLE^S  A D  VEN TURKS, 


their   exploits,   and    to   sound  their   own  trum- 
pet 

Having  vented  their  valor  in  this  fierce  effer- 
vescence, the  Banneck  braves  gradually  calmed 
down,  lowered  their  crests,  smoothed  their  ruffled 
feathers,  and  betook  themselves  to  sleep,  without 
placing  a  single  guard  over  their  camp ;  so  that, 
liad  the  Blackfeet  taken  them  at  thei''  word,  but 
few  of  these  braggart  heroes  might  have  survived 
for  any  further  boasting. 

On  the  following  morning,  Captain  Bonneville 
purchased  a  supply  of  buffalo  meat  from  his  brag- 
gadocio friends  ;  who,  with  all  their  vaporing,  were 
in  fact  a  very  forlorn  horde,  destitute  of  fire-arms, 
and  of  almost  everything  that  constitutes  riches 
in  savage  life.  The  bargain  concluded,  the  Ban- 
necks  set  off  for  their  village,  which  was  situated, 
they  said,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Portneuf,  and  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  and  his  companions  shaped  their 
course  towards  Snake  River. 

Arrived  on  the  banks  of  that  river,  he  found 
it  rapid  and  boisterous,  but  not  too  deep  to  be 
forded.  In  traversing  it,  however,  one  of  the 
horses  was  swept  suddenly  from  his  footing,  and 
his  rider  was  flung  from  the  saddle  into  the  midst 
of  the  stream.  Both  horse  and  horseman  were 
extricated  without  any  damage^  excepting  tliat  the 
latter  was  completely  drenched,  so  that  it  was 
necessary  to  kindle  a  fire  to  dry  him.  While 
they  were  thus  occupied,  one  of  the  party  looking 
up,  perceived  an  Indian  scout  cautiously  recon- 
noitriuo  them  from  the  summit  of  a  neii»;hl)orino[ 
hill.     The  moment  he  found  himself  discoveroil, 


VTiFANl 


INDIAN  SPY. 


21)1 


he  disa[)peare(l  beliiiul  the  liill.  Fi-oiii  his  furtive 
movements,  Captjiin  Bonneville  susi)ectcd  him  to 
be  a  scout  from  the  Bluckfeet  camp,  and  that  he 
had  gone  to  report  what  he  had  seen  to  his  com- 
panions. It  would  not  do  to  loiter  in  such  a 
neighborhood,  so  the  kindling  of  the  lire  was 
abandoned,  the  drenched  horseman  mounted  in 
dripping  condition,  and  the  little  band  pushed  for- 
ward directly  into  the  plain,  going  at  a  smart 
pace,  until  they  had  gained  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  place  of  supposed  danger.  Here 
encamping  for  the  night,  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance of  sage,  or  wormwood,  which  afforded  fod- 
der for  their  horses,  they  kindled  a  huge  fire  for 
the  benefit  of  their  damp  comrade,  and  then  pro- 
ceeded to  prepare  a  sumptuous  supper  of  buffalo 
humps  and  ribs,  and  other  choice  bits,  which  they 
had  brought  with  them.  After  a  hearty  repast, 
relished  with  an  appetite  unknown  to  city  epi- 
cures, they  stretched  themselves  upon  their 
couches  of  skins,  and  under  the  starry  canopy  of 
heaven  enjoyed  the  sound  and  sweet  sleep  of 
hardy  and  well-fed  mountaineers. 

They  continued  on  their  journey  for  several 
days,  without  any  incident  worthy  of  notice, 
and  on  the  19th  of  November  came  upon  tra^'es 
of  the  party  of  which  they  were  in  search  ;  such 
us  burnt  patches  of  prairie,  and  deserted  camphig 
grounds.  All  these  were  carefully  examined,  to 
discover  by  their  fresiniess  or  antiquity  the  prob- 
able time  that  the  trappers  had  left  them;  at 
length,  after  much  wandering  and  investigating, 
they  :ame  upon  the  regular  trail  of  the  hunting 


i 


».' 


f.i 


HI 


|:f>: 


292 


B ONNE  VILLE' S  AD  YEN  TLTRES. 


party,  which  led  into  tlie  mountaiDS,  and  follow- 
ing it  up  briskly,  came  about  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  of  the  20th,  upon  the  encampment  of 
llodgkiss  and  his  band  of  free  trappers,  in  the 
bosom  of  a  mountain  valley. 

It  will  be  recollected  that  these  free  trappers, 
who  were  masters  of  themselves  and  their  move- 
ments, had  refused  to  accompany  Captaiu  Bon- 
neville back  to  Green  River  hi  the  preceding 
month  of  July,  preferring  to  trap  about  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Salmon  River,  where  they 
expected  to  find  plenty  of  beaver,  and  a  less 
dangerous  neighborhood.  Their  hunt  had  not 
been  very  successful.  They  had  penetrated  the 
great  range  of  mountains  among  which  some  of 
the  upper  branches  of  Salmon  River  take  their 
rise,  but  had  become  so  entangled  among  im- 
mense and  almost  impassable  barricades  of  fallen 
phies,  and  so  impeded  by  tremendous  precipices, 
that  a  great  part  of  their  season  had  been  wasted 
among  those  mountains.  At  one  time  they  had 
made  their  way  through  them,  and  reached  the 
Bois^e  River ;  but  meeting  with  a  band  of 
Banneck  Indians,  from  whom  they  apprehended 
hostilities,  they  had  again  taken  shelter  among  the 
mountains,  where  they  were  found  by  Captain 
Bonneville.  In  the  neighborhood  of  their  en- 
campment, the  captain  had  the  good  fortune  to 
meet  with  a  family  of  those  wanderers  of  the 
mountains,  emphatically  called  ''  les  dignes  de 
pitie,"  or  Poordevil  Indians.  These,  however, 
appear  to  have  forfeited  the  title,  for  tliey  had 
with  them  a  line  lot  of  skhis  of  beaver,  elk,  deer, 


A  BANNECK   VICTORY. 


293 


»nd  mountain  sheep.  These,  Captain  Bonneville 
purchased  from  them  at  a  fair  valuation,  and  sent 
them  off  astonished  at  their  own  wealth,  and  no 
douht  objects  of  envy  to  all  their  pitiful  tribe. 

Being  now  reinforced  by  Hodgkiss  and  his 
band  of  free  trappers,  Captain  Bonneville  put 
himself  at  the  head  of  the  united  parties,  and 
set  out  to  rejoin  those  he  had  recently  left  at  the 
Beer  Spring,  that  they  might  all  go  into  winter 
quarters  on  Snake  River.  On  his  route,  he  en- 
countered many  heavy  falls  of  snow,  which 
melted  almost  immediately,  so  as  not  to  impede 
his  march,  and  on  the  4th  of  December  he  found 
his  other  party,  encamped  at  the  very  place  where 
he  had  partaken  in  the  buffalo  hunt  with  the 
Bannecks. 

That  braggart  horde  was  encamped  but  about 
three  miles  off,  and  were  just  then  in  high  glee 
and  festivity,  and  more  swaggering  than  ever, 
celebrating  a  prodigious  victory.  It  appeared 
that  a  party  of  their  braves  being  out  on  a  hunt- 
ing excursion,  discovered  a  band  of  Blackfeet 
moving,  as  they  thought,  to  surprise  their  hunt- 
ing camp.  The  Bannecks  immediately  posted 
themselves  on  each  side  of  a  dark  ravine,  through 
which  the  enemy  must  pass,  and  just  as  they 
were  entangled  in  the  midst  of  it,  attacked  them 
with  great  fury.  The  Blackfeet,  struck  with 
sudden  panic,  threw  off  their  buffalo  robes  and 
fled,  leaving  one  of  their  warriors  dead  on  the 
spot.  The  victors  eagerly  gathered  up  the 
spoils  ;  but  their  greatest  prize  was  the  scalp  of 
the  Blackfoot  brave.     This  they  bore  off  in  tri 


294 


B ONNE VJL LF:S  ADVENT UR E3. 


m\ 


ii 


l^l! 


umph  to  their  village,  where  it  had  ever  since 
been  an  object  of  the  greatest  exultation  and 
rejoicing.  It  had  been  elevated  upon  a  pole  in 
the  centre  of  the  village,  where  the  warriors  had 
celebrated  the  scalp  dance  round  it,  with  war 
feasts,  war  songs,  and  warlike  harangues.  It 
had  then  been  given  up  to  the  women  and  boys  ; 
who  had  paraded  it  up  and  down  the  village  witli 
shouts  and  chants  and  ant?c  dances ;  occasionally 
saluting  it  with  all  '  inds  of  taunts,  invectives, 
and  revilinffs. 

The  Blackfeet,  in  this  affair,  do  not  appear  to 
have  acted  up  to  the  character  which  has  ren- 
dered them  objects  of  such  terror.  Indeed,  their 
conduct  in  war,  to  the  inexperienced  observer,  is 
full  of  inconsistencies ;  at  one  time  they  are 
headlong  in  courage,  and  heedless  of  danger  ;  at 
another  time  cautious  almost  to  cowardice.  To 
understand  these  apparent  incongruities,  one 
must  know  their  principles  of  warfare.  A  war 
party,  however  triumphant,  if  they  lose  a  war- 
rior in  the  fight,  bring  back  a  cause  of  mourning 
to  their  people,  which  casts  a  shade  over  the 
glory  of  their  achievement.  Hence,  the  Indian 
is  often  less  fierce  and  reckless  in  general  battle, 
than  he  is  in  a  private  brawl ;  and  the  chiefs  are 
checked  in  their  boldest  undertakings  by  the  fear 
of  sacrificing  their  warriors. 

This  peculiarity  is  not  confined  to  the  Black- 
fcet.  Among  the  Osages,  says  Captain  Bonne- 
ville, when  a  warrior  falls  in  battle,  h^s  comrades, 
though  they  may  have  fought  with  consummate 
valor,  and  won  a  glorious  victory,  will  leave  their 


ir  Bince 
on  and 
pole  in 
ors  had 
ith  war 
les.  It 
i  boys ; 
(TQ  with 
sionally 
'^ectives, 

)pear  to 
las  ren- 
id,  their 
3rver,  is 
ley    are 
ger ;  at 
ze.     To 
es,    one 
A  war 
a  war- 
mruing 
^er  the 
Indian 
battle, 
liefs  are 
the  fear 

Black- 

>onne- 

irades, 

Immate 

\q  theii 


EFFECT  OF  TfTE  LOSS   OF  A    WARRIOR.    295 

arms  apcn  the  field  of  battle,  and  returning  home 
with  dejected  countenances,  will  halt  without  the 
encampment,  and  wait  until  the  relatives  of  the 
slain  come  forth  and  invite  them  to  mingle  agaia 
with  their  people. 


i  ' 


^'  t  I, 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Winter  camp  at  the  Portneuf.  —  Fine  springs.  —  The  Ban- 
neck  Indianc  —  their  honesty.  —  Captain  Bonneville  pre- 
pares for  an  expedition.  —  Christmas.  —  The  American 
Falls  — Wild  scencrv.  —  Fishing  Falls  —  Snake  Indians. — 
Scenery  on  the  Hruneau.  —  View  of  volcanic  country  from 
a  mountain.  —  l*ovvder  River.  —  Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Dig- 
gers —  their  character,  habits,  habitations,  dogs.  —  Vanity 
at  its  last  shifl. 


'Saa  JN  establishing  his  winter  cannp  near  the 
I  Portneuf,  Captain  Bonneville  had  drawn 
I  off  to  some  little  distance  from  his  Ban- 
neck  friends,  to  avoid  all  annoyance  from  their 
intimacy  or  intrusions.  In  so  doino^,  however,  he 
had  been  obliged  to  take  up  his  quarters  on  the 
extreme  edge  of  ihe  flat  land,  where  he  was  en- 
compassed with  ice  and  snoTv,  and  had  nothing 
better  for  his  horses  to  subsist  on  than  wormwood. 
The  Bannecks,  on  the  contrary,  were  encamped 
among  fine  springs  of  water,  where  there  was 
grass  in  abundance.  Some  of  these  springs  gush 
out  of  the  earth  in  sufficient  quantity  to  turn  a 
mill ;  and  furnish  beautiful  streams,  clear  as  crys- 
tal, and  full  of  tiout  of  a  large  size  ;  which  may 
be  seen  darting  about  the  transparent  water. 

Winter  now  set  in  regularly.  The  snow  had 
fallen  frequently,  and  in  large  quantities,  and 
covered  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  a  foot ;  and 


he  Ban- 

rille  pre- 
Linerican 
dians. — 
I  try  from 
oot  Dig- 
-  Vanity 


car  the 

I  drawn 

is  Baii- 

n   their 

ver,  he 

on  the 

,vas  eii- 

nothinj^ 

mwood. 

camped 

re  was 

TS  gush 

turn  a 

IS  crys- 

ch  may 

r. 

ow  had 
-..,  and 
>t ;  and 


i 


nONlSTY   OF  BAXNfCCKS. 


297 


the  continued  coldness  of  the  wcr  ther  prevented 
any  thaw. 

By  degree",  a  distrust  which  at  first  suhsisted 
between  the  Indians  and  tlie  trappers,  subsided, 
and  gjive  way  to  mutual  conti«lence  and  ^rood-will. 
A  ihw  presents  convinced  tlie  ciiiefs  that  the  white 
men  were  their  frien<ls :  nor  were  the  white  men 
wanting  in  proofs  of  the  honesty  and  good  faitii  of 
their  savjjge  neighbo!*s.  Occasionally,  the  deep 
snow  and  the  want  of  fod  ^ir  obliged  them  to  turn 
their  weakest  horses  out  to  roam  in  quest  of  sus- 
tenance. If  they  at  any  time  strayed  to  the 
camp  of  the  Bannecks,  they  were  immediately 
brought  back.  It  must  be  confessed,  however, 
thai  if  the  stray  horse  happened,  by  any  chance, 
to  be  in  vigorous  plight  and  good  condition, 
though  he  was  equally  sure  to  be  returned  by 
the  honest  Bannecks,  yet  it  was  always  after  the 
lapse  of  several  days,  and  in  a  very  gaunt  and 
jaded  state  ;  and  always  with  the  remark,  that 
they  had  found  him  a  long  way  oft'.  The  un- 
charitable were  apt  to  surmise  that  he  had,  in  the 
interim,  been  well  used  up  in  a  buffalo  hunt ;  but 
those  accustomed  to  Indian  morality  in  the  matter 
of  horseflesh,  considered  it  a  singular  evidence  of 
honesfv,  that  he  should  be  brought  back  at  till. 

Being  convinced,  therefore,  from  these  and 
other  circumstances,  that  his  people  were 
encamped  in  the  neighborhood  of  a  tribe  as  hon- 
est as  they  were  valiant,  and  satisfied  that  they 
would  pass  their  winter  unmolested.  Captain 
Bonneville  prepared  for  a  reconnoitring  expedi- 
tion of  great    extent    and    peril.     This  was,   to 


*  t  iHj  b? 


298 


DONNE VILLj'TS   A  D VENTURES. 


• 


1 ,1^1 


■'■ijifi 


r 

i 


pcMiotrate  to  tlie  Hudson's  Bay  estaLlislimenta  on 
the  banks  of  tlie  Columbia,  and  to  iiuke  liimself 
acquainted  with  the  country  and  the  Indian  tribes  ; 
it  being  one  part  of  his  schenip  ""  establisli  a 
trading  post  somewhere  on  the  .r  part  of  the 
river,  so  as  to  participate  in  the  trade  lost  to  the 
United  States  by  the  capture  of  Astoria.  This 
expedition  would,  of  course,  take  liim  through 
the  Snake  River  country,  and  across  the  Blue 
Mountains,  the  scenes  of  so  much  hardship  and 
disaster  to  Hunt  and  Crooks,  and  their  Astoriau 
bands,  who  first  explored  it,  and  he  would  have 
to  pass  through  it  in  the  same  frightful  season, 
the  depth  of  winter. 

The  idea  of  risk  and  hardship,  however,  only 
served  to  stimulate  the  adventurous  spirit  of  the 
captain.  He  chose  three  companions  for  his  jour- 
ney, put  up  a  small  stock  of  necessaries  in  the 
most  portable  form,  and  selected  five  horses  and 
mules  for  themselves  and  their  baggage.  He  pro- 
posed to  rejoin  his  band  in  the  early  part  of 
March,  at  the  winter  encampment  near  the  Port- 
neuf.  All  these  arrangements  being  completed, 
lie  mounted  his  horse  on  Christmas  morning,  and 
set  off  with  his  three  comrades.  Tliev  halted  a 
little  beyond  the  Banneck  camp,  and  made  their 
Christmas  dinner,  which,  if  not  a  very  merry, 
was  a  very  hearty  one,  after  which  they  resumed 
their  journey. 

They  were  obliged  to  travel  slowly,  to  spare 
their  horses ;  for  the  snow  had  increased  in  depth 
to  eighteen  inches ;  and  though  somewhat  packed 
and  frozen,  was  not  sufficiently  so  to  yield  firm 


1, 


WfiJ)  acfuWKRr. 


299 


footin":.  Their  route  lay  to  the  west,  down  iiloug 
the  left  .side  of  Snake  River;  and  they  were  sev- 
eral days  in  reaching  the  first,  or  American  Fulls. 
The  banks  of  the  river,  for  a  eonsiderable  dis*- 
tanee,  both  above  and  below  the  falls,  have  a  vol- 
canic character:  masses  of  basdtic  rock  are  piled 
one  upon  another;  the  water  mjikes  its  way 
throu":h  their  broken  clmsms,  boilini;  throuijh 
narrow  chajinels,  or  pitching  in  beautiful  cascades 
over  ridges  of  basaltic  columns. 

Beyond  these  falls,  they  came  to  a  picturesque, 
but  inconsiderable  stream,  called  the  Cassi(i.  It 
runs  through  a  level  valley,  about  four  miles 
wide,  where  the  soil  is  good  ;  but  the  prevalent 
coldness  and  dryness  of  the  climate  is  unfavor- 
able to  vegetation.  Near  to  this  stream  there  is 
a  small  mountain  of  mica  slate,  includinir  jrarnets. 
Granite,  in  smiiU  blocks,  is  likewise  seen  in  this 
neiiihborhood,  and  white  sandstone.  From  this 
river,  the  travellers  had  a  prospect  of  the  snow 
heights  of  the  Salmon  River  Mountains  to  tha 
north  ;   the  nearest,  at  least  fifty  miles  distant. 

In  pursuing  his  course  westward.  Captain 
Bonneville  generally  kept  several  miles  from 
Snake  River,  crossing  the  heads  of  its  tributary 
streams  ;  though  he  often  found  the  open  country 
so  encumbered  by  volcanic  rods  as  to  render 
travelling  extremely  diificult.  Vv  henever  he  ap- 
proached Snake  River,  he  found  it  miming 
through  a  broad  chasm,  with  steep,  perpendicular 
sides  of  basaltic  rock.  After  several  days'  travel 
across  a  level  plain,  he  came  to  a  pju't  of  the 
river  which    fdled  him   with    astonishment    and 


'  I? 


■  I 


boo 


B ONNE VILL A' S   AD VEN TUIiES. 


I 


admiration.  As  far  as  tlie  eye  could  reach,  the 
river  was  walled  in  by  pcrpciulicular  cliffs  two 
liiiudred  and  fifty  feet  hij^h,  beetling  like  dark 
•and  gloomy  battlements,  while  blocks  an<l  fni'i;- 
ments  lay  in  masses  at  their  feet,  in  the  midst  of 
the  boiling  and  wiiirling  current.  Just  above, 
the  whole  stream  pitched  in  one  cascade  above 
forty  feet  in  height,  with  a  thundering  soun<], 
casting  up  a  volume  of  spray  that  hung  in  the 
air  like  a  silver  mist.  These  are  called  by  some 
the  Fishing  Falls,  as  the  salmon  are  taken  hero 
in  immense  quantities.  They  cannot  get  by 
these  falls. 

After  encamping  at  this  place  all  night,  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  at  sunrise,  descended  with  his 
party  through  a  narrow  ravine,  or  rather  crevice, 
in  the  vast  wall  of  basaltic  rock  which  bordered 
the  rive'* ;  this  being  the  oidy  mode,  for  many 
miles,  of  getting  to  the  margin  of  the  stream. 

The  snow  lay  in  a  thin  crust  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  so  that  their  travelling  was  much 
more  easy  than  it  had  been  hitherto.  There 
were  foot  tracks,  also,  made  by  the  natives, 
which  greatly  facilitated  their  progress.  Occa- 
sionally, they  met  the  inhabitants  of  this  wild  re- 
gion ;  a  timid  race,  and  but  scantily  provided 
with  the  necessaries  of  life.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  mantle  about  four  feet  square,  formed 
of  strips  of  rabbit  skins  sewed  together:  this 
they  hung  over  their  shoulders,  in  the  ordinary 
Indian  mode  of  wearing  the  blanket.  Their 
weapons  were  bows  and  arrows  ;  the  latter 
tipped  with  obsidian,  which  abounds  in  the  neigh- 


I     ! 


SNAKE  RIVER   DEFILE. 


801 


borhood.  Their  huts  were  sliapcil  like  Imystftcks, 
iiiKl  constuicted  of  branches  of  willow  covered 
with  ion;;  grass,  so  ns  to  be  warm  and  comfort- 
able. Occasionally,  they  were  surrounded  by 
pmaft  inclosures  ot  wormwood,  about  three  ^iint 
hi;j;li,  which  ;j;ave  tiieiii  a  cottage-like  appearance 
Three  or  four  of  these  tenements  were  occasion- 
ally grouped  together  in  some  wild  and  striking 
situation,  and  had  a  picturesque  effect.  Some- 
times they  were  in  suiTicient  number  to  form  a 
Hmall  hamlet.  From  these  people,  Captain  l^>on- 
neville's  party  frequently  purchased  salmon,  dried 
ill  an  admirable  maimer,  ns  were  likewise  the 
roes.  This  seemed  to  be  their  prime  article  of 
food  ;  but  they  were  extremely  anxious  to  get 
bufftdo  meat  in  exchange. 

The  high  walls  and  rocks,  within  which  the 
travellers  had  been  so  long  inclosed,  now  occa- 
sionally presented  openings,  through  which  they 
were  enabled  to  ascend  to  the  plain,  and  to  cut 
off  oonsiderabie  bends  of  the  river. 

Throughout  the  whole  extent  of  this  vast  and 
singular  chasm,  the  scenery  of  the  river  is  said 
to  be  of  the  most  wild  and  romantic  character. 
The  rocks  present  every  variety  of  masses  and 
grouping.  Numerous  small  streams  come  rush- 
ing and  boiling  through  narrow  clefts  and 
ravines  :  one  of  a  considerable  size  issued  from 
the  face  of  a  precipice,  within  twenty-five  feet 
of  its  summit  ;  and  after  running  in  nearly  a 
horizontal  line  for  about  one  hundred  feet,  fell, 
by  numerous  small  cascades,  to  the  rocky  bank 
of  the  river. 


802 


B  ONNK  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


In  its  career  through  this  vast  and  singular 
defile,  Snake  River  is  upwards  of  three  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  as  clear  as  spring  water.  Some- 
times it  steals  along  with  a  tranquil  and  noiseless 
course ;  at  other  times,  for  miles  and  miles,  it 
dashes  on  in  a  thousand  rapids,  wild  and  beauti- 
ful to  the  eye,  .'uid  lulling  the  ear  with  the  soft 
tumult  of  plashing  waters. 

Many  of  the  tributary  streams  of  Snake  River 
rival  it  in  the  wildness  and  picturesqueness  of 
their  scenery.  Tiiat  called  the  Bruneau  is  partic- 
ulaidy  cited.  It  runs  through  a  tremendous 
chasm,  rath  r  than  a  valley,  extending  upwanls 
of  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  You  come  upon  it 
on  a  sudden,  in  traversing  a  level  plain.  It  seems 
as  if  you  could  throw  a  stone  across  from  cliff  to 
cliff;  yet,  the  valley  is  near  two  thousand  feet 
deep  :  so  tliat  the  river  looks  like  an  inconsider- 
able stream.  Basaltic  rocks  rise  perpendicularly, 
so  that  it  is  impossible  to  get  from  the  plain 
to  the  water,  or  from  the  river  margin  to  the 
plain.  The  current  is  bright  and  limpid.  Hot 
springs  are  found  on  the  borders  of  this  river. 
One  bursts  out  of  the  cliffs  forty  feet  above  the 
river,  in  a  stream  sufficient  to  turn  a  mill,  and 
Bends  up  a  cloud  of  vapor. 

We  find  a  characteristic  picture  of  this  vol- 
canic region  of  mountains  and  streams,  furnished 
by  the  journal  of  Mr.  Wyeth,  which  lies  before 
us  ;  who  ascended  a  peak  in  the  neighboi'liood 
we  are  descril)ing.  From  this  summit,  the  coun- 
try, he  says,  apj)ears  an  indescribable  cliaos  ;  the 
tops  of  the  hills  exhibit  the  same  strata  as  far  tu* 


S/IOSflOK  0  E  IND I A  NS. 


303 


the  eye  can  reach ;  and  appear  to  have  once 
formed  the  level  of  the  conntry ;  and  the  valleys 
to  be  formed  by  tlie  sinking  of  the  eartii,  rather 
than  the  rising  of  the  hills.  Through  tlie  deep 
cracks  and  chasms  thus  formed,  the  rivers  and 
brooks  make  their  way,  which  renders  it  difficult 
to  follow  them.  All  these  basaltic  channels  are 
called  "  cut  rocks  "  by  the  trappers.  Many  of  the 
mountain  streams  di?-appear  in  the  plains  ;  either 
al)sorbed  by  their  thirsty  soil,  and  by  the  porous 
surface  of  the  lava,  or  swallowed  up  in  gulfs  and 
chasms. 

On  the  12th  of  January  (1834),  Captain  Bon^ 
neville  reached  Powder  River  ;  much  the  largest 
stream  that  he  had  seen  since  leaving  the  Port- 
neuf.  He  struck  it  about  three  miles  above  its 
entrance  into  Snake  River.  Here  he  found  him- 
self above  the  lower  narrows  and  defiles  of  the 
latter  river,  and  in  an  open  and  level  country. 
The  natives  now  made  their  appearance  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  and  evinced  the  most  insati- 
able curiosity  respecting  the  white  men  ;  sitting 
in  groups  for  hours  together,  exposed  to  the 
bleakest  winds,  merely  for  the  pleasure  of  gazing 
upon  the  strangers,  and  watching  every  move- 
ment. These  are  of  that  branch  of  the  great 
Snake  tribe  Cidled  Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers, 
from  their  subsisting,  in  a  great  measure,  on  the 
roots  of  the  earth  ;  though  they  likewise  take 
fish  in  great  quantities,  and  hunt,  in  a  small  way. 
They  are,  in  general,  very  poor;  destitute  of  most 
uf  the  comforts  of  life,  and  extrerjiely  indolent: 
but    a    mild,  inofl'ensive   race.       They  differ,  iu 


"I' 

1 

:  ■■ 

1 

304 


B  ONNE  VILLETS  A  D  VENTURES, 


«IMN'I 


f 


I 


ft 


maiij  respects,  from  the  otlier  branch  of  the 
Snake  tribe,  tlie  Shoshonies,  who  possess  horses, 
are  more  roving  and  adventurous,  and  hunt  tlie 
buffalo. 

On  the  following  day,  as  Captain  Bonneville 
approached  the  mouth  of  Powder  River,  he  dis- 
covered at  least  a  hundred  families  of  these  Difj- 
gers,  as  they  are  familiarly  called,  assembled  in 
one  place.  The  women  and  children  kept  at  a 
distance,  perched  among  the  rocks  and  cliffs 
their  eager  curiosity  being  somewhat  dashed  with 
fear.  From  their  elevated  posts,  they  scrutinized 
the  strangers  with  the  most  intense  earnestness  ; 
regarding  them  with  almost  as  much  awe  as  if 
they  had  been  beings  of  a  supernatural  order. 

The  men,  however,  were  by  no  means  so  shy 
and  reserved  ;  but  importuned  Captain  Bonne- 
ville and  his  companions  excessively  by  their 
curiosity.  Nothing  escaped  their  notice  ;  and 
anything  they  could  lay  their  hands  on  under- 
went the  most  minute  examination.  To  get  rid 
of  such  inquisitive  neighbors,  the  travellers  kept 
on  for  a  considerable  distance,  before  they  en- 
camped for  the  night. 

The  country  hereabout  was  generally  level 
and  sandy  ;  producing  very  little  grass,  but  a  con- 
si  ierable  quantity  of  sage  or  wormwood.  The 
plains  were  diversified  by  isolated  hills,  all  cut 
off,  as  it  were,  about  the  same  height,  so  as  to 
have  tabular  summits.  In  this  they  resembled 
the  isolated  hills  of  the  great  prairies  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  ;  especially  those  found  on  the 
plains  of  the  Arkansas. 


1 


t)] 


THE  ROOT  DK.GERS  AND    THEIR  DOGS.    305 

The  high  precipices  which  had  hitherto  walled 
in  the  channel  of  Snake  River  had  now  disap- 
peared, and  the  banks  were  of  the  ordinary 
height.  It  should  be  observed,  that  tlie  great 
valleys  or  plains  through  which  the  Snake  River 
wound  its  course,  were  generally  of  great 
breadth,  extending  on  each  side  from  thirty  to 
forty  miles ;  where  the  view  was  bounded  by  un- 
broken ridges  of  mountains. 

Tlie  travellers  found  but  little  snow  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Powder  River,  tliough  the 
weather  continued  intensely  cold.  They  learnt 
a  lesson,  however,  from  their  forlorn  friends,  the 
Root  Diggers,  which  they  subsequently  found  of 
great  service  in  their  wintry  wanderings.  They 
frequently  observed  them  to  be  furnished  with 
long  ropes,  twisted  from  the  bark  of  the  worm- 
wood. This  they  used  as  a  slow  match,  carrying 
it  always  lighted.  Whenever  they  wished  to 
warm  themselves,  they  would  gather  together  a 
little  dry  wormwood,  apply  the  match,  and  in  an 
instant  produce  a  cheering  blaze. 

Captain  Bonneville  gives  a  cheerless  accoutit 
of  a  village  of  these  Diggers,  which  he  saw  in 
crossing  the  plain  below  Powder  River.  "  They 
live,"  says  he,  "  without  any  further  protection 
from  the  inclemency  of  the  season  than  a  sort 
of  break- weather,  about  three  feet  high,  com- 
posed of  sage  (or  wormwood),  and  erected 
around  them  in  the  shape  of  a  half  moon." 
Whenever  he  met  with  them,  however,  they  had 

always  a  large    suite    of  half-starved  dogs ;  for 

20 


!.'J 


806 


B ONNE  VILLEPS  AD  VENTURES. 


these  animals,  in  savage  as  well  as  in  civilized 
life,  seem  to  be  the  concomitants  of  beggary. 

These  dogs,  it  must  be  allowed,  were  of  more 
use  than  tlie  beggarly  curs  of  cities.  The  In- 
dian cliildren  used  them  in  huntinj;  the  small 
game  of  the  neighborhood,  such  as  rabbits  and 
prairie  dogs;  in  which  mongrel  kind  of  chase 
they  acquitted  themselves  with  some  credit. 

Sometimes  the  Diggers  aspire  to  nobler  game, 
and  succeed  in  entrap})ing  the  antelope,  the  fleet- 
est animal  of  the  prairies.  The  process  by  which 
this  is  effected  is  somewhat  singular.  Wlien  the 
snow  has  disappeared,  says  Captain  Bonneville, 
and  the  ground  become  soft,  the  women  go  into 
the  thickest  fields  of  wormwood,  and  pulling  it 
up  in  great  quantities,  construct  with  it  a  hedge, 
about  three  feet  high,  inclosing  about  a  hundred 
acres.  A  single  opening  is  left  for  the  admission 
of  the  game.  This  done,  the  women  conceal 
themselves  behind  the  wormwood,  and  wmi  pa- 
tiently for  the  coming  of  the  antelopes  ;'wliich 
sometimes  enter  this  spacious  trap  in  considerable 
numbers.  As  soon  as  they  are  in,  the  women 
give  the  signal,  and  the  men  hasten  to  play  their 
part.  But  one  of  them  enters  the  pen  at  a  time ; 
and,  after  chasing  the  terrified  animals  round  the 
inclosure,  is  relieved  by  one  of  his  companions. 
In  this  way  the  hunters  take  their  turns,  reliev- 
ing each  other,  and  keeping  up  a  continued  pur- 
suit by  relays,  without  fatigue  to  themselves. 
The  poor  antelopes,  in  the  end,  are  so  wearied 
down,  that  the  whole  party  of  men  enter  and  dis- 
patch them  with  clubs  —  not  one  escaping  that 

\ 


SnOSIfOKOE  MANDFACTWRES. 


307 


'  ^  i 


has  entered  the  inclosure.  The  most  curious  cir- 
cumstance in  this  chase  is,  that  an  {inimal  so  flt;et 
and  agile  as  tlie  antelope,  and  straining  for  its 
life,  should  range  round  and  round  this  fated  in- 
closure, without  attempting  to  overleap  the  low 
barrier  which  surround.^:  It.  Such,  however,  is 
said  to  be  the  fact ;  and  such  their  only  mode  of 
hunting  the  antelope. 

Notwithstanding  the  absence  of  all  comfort 
and  convenience  in  their  habitations,  and  the  gen- 
eral squalidness  of  their  appearance,  the  Shosho- 
koes  do  not  apj)ear  to  be  destitute  of  ingenuity. 
They  manufacture  good  ropes,  and  even  a  toler- 
ably fine  thread,  from  a  sort  of  weed  found  in 
their  neighborhood  ;  and  construct  bowls  and 
jugs  out  of  a  kind  of  basket-work  formed  from 
small  strips  of  wood  plaited  :  these,  by  the  aid 
of  a  little  wax,  they  render  perfectly  water  tight. 
Beside  the  roots  on  which  they  mainly  depend 
for  sucwistence,  they  collect  great  quantities  of 
seed  of  various  kinds,  beaten  with  one  hand  out 
of  the  tops  of  the  plants  into  wooden  bowls  held 
for  that  purj)ose.  The  seed  thus  collected  is 
wimiowed  and  parched,  and  ground  between  two 
btones  into  a  kind  of  meal  or  flour  ;  which,  when 
mixed  with  water,  forms  a  very  palatable  paste 
or  gruel. 

Some  of  these  people,  more  provident  and  in- 
dustrious than  the  rest,  lay  up  a  stock  of  dried 
salmon,  and  other  fish,  for  winter:  with  these, 
they  were  ready  to  trailic  with  the  travellers  for 
any  objects  of  utility  in  Indian  life  ;  giving  a 
large  quantity  in  exchange  lor  an  awl,  a  knife, 


il08 


B ONNE VILL V: S  AD  VEN TURKS. 


■Ilfff!'  ! 


liii' 


wm^ 


or  (i  fish-hook.  Others  were  in  the  most  abject 
Btate  of  want  and  starvation,  and  would  even 
gather  up  t**e  fish-bones  whieh  the  travellers 
threw  away  after  a  repast,  warm  them  over 
again  at  the  fire,  and  pick  them  with  the  great- 
est avidity. 

The  further  Captain  Bonneville  advanced  into 
the  country  of  these  Root  Diggers,  the  more  evi- 
dence he  perceived  of  their  rude  and  forlorn  con- 
dition. "  They  were  destitute,"  says  he,  "  of  the 
necessary  covering  to  protect  them  from  the 
weather ;  and  seemed  to  be  in  the  most  unso- 
phisticated ignorance  of  any  other  propriety  or 
advantage  in  the  use  of  clothing.  One  old  dame 
had  absolutely  nothing  on  her  person  but  a 
thread  round  her  neck,  from  which  was  pendent 
a  solitary  bead." 

What  stage  of  human  destitution,  however,  is 
too  destitute  for  vanity  !  Though  these  naked 
and  forlorn-looking  beings  had  neither  toilet 
to  arrange,  nor  beauty  to  contemplate,  their 
greatest  passion  was  for  a  mirror.  It  was  a 
"  great  medicine,"  in  their  eyes.  The  sight  of 
one  was  sufficient,  at  any  time,  to  throw  them 
into  a  paroxysm  of  eagerness  and  delight ;  and 
they  were  ready  to  give  anything  they  had  for  the 
smallest  fragment  in  which  they  might  behold 
their  squalid  features.  With  this  simple  instance 
of  vanity  in  its  primitive  but  vigorous  state,  we 
shall  close  our  remarks  on  the  Root  Diggers, 


CHAPTER   XXX. 

Temperature  of  the  climate.  —  Root  Diggers  on  horseback.— 

An    Indian  guide.  —  Mountain    prospects.  —  The    Gtand 

Kond.  —  Difliculties  on  Snake  River.  —  A  scramble  over  the 

Blue  Mountains.  —  SuflTcrings  from  hunger.  —  Prospect  of 

the  Immahah  Valley.  —  The  exhausted  traveller. 


n 

TIE  temperature  of  the  regious  west  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  is  much  milder 
than  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  Atlan- 
tic side  ;  the  upper  plains,  however,  which  lie  at 
a  distance  from  the  sea-coast,  are  subject  in  winter 
to  considerable  vicissitude  ;  being  traversed  by  lof- 
ty "  sierras,"  crowned  with  perpetual  snow,  which 
often  produce  flaws  and  streaks  of  intense  cold. 
This  was  experienced  b}  Captain  Bonneville  and 
liis  companions  in  their  progress  vvestward.  At 
the  time  whon  they  left  the  Bannecks,  Snake 
River  was  frozen  hard  :  as  they  proceeded,  the 
ice  became  broken  and  floating ;  it  gradually  dis- 
appeared, and  the  weather  became  warm  and 
pleasant,  as  they  approached  a  tributary  stream 
tailed  the  Little  Wyer;  and  the  soil,  which  waa 
generally  of  a  watery  clay,  with  occasional  inter- 
vals of  sand,  was  soft  to  the  tread  of  the  horses. 
After  a  time,  however,  the  mountains  approached 
and  flanked  the  river  ;  the  snow  lay  deep  in  the 
valleys,  and  the  current  was  oi.ce  more  ice-bound. 


1 

! 

f    ; 

i| 

'il 

i    , 

I 

1! 

J. 

f 

7 

310 


B ONNE  VILLE' S  AD  VENTURES, 


Here  they  were  visited  by  a  party  of  Root 
Diggers,  vvlio  were  apparently  rising  in  the 
world,  for  they  had  "  horse  to  ride  and  weapon 
to  wear,"  and  were  altogetljer  better  clad  and 
equipped  than  any  of  the  tribe  that  Captain  Bon- 
nes ille  had  met  with.  They  were  just  from  tl»e 
plain  of  Boisee  River,  where  they  had  lefl  a 
number  of  their  tribe,  all  as  well  provided  as 
themselves,  having  guns,  horses,  and  comfortable 
clothing.  All  these  they  obtained  from  the 
Lower  Nez  Perces,  with  whom  they  were  in 
habits  of  frequent  traffic.  They  appeared  to  have 
imbibed  from  that  tribe  their  noncombative  prin- 
ciples, being  mild  and  inoffensive  in  tlieir  man- 
ners. Like  them,  also,  they  had  something  of 
religious  feelings ;  for  Captain  Bonneville  ob- 
served that,  before  eating,  they  washed  their 
hands  and  made  a  short  prayer  ;  which  he  un- 
derstood was  their  invariable  custom.  From 
these  Indians,  he  obtained  a  considerable  supply 
of  fish,  and  an  excellent  and  well-conditioned 
horse,  to  replace  one  which  had  become  too  weak 
for  the  journey. 

The  travellers  now  moved  forward  with  reno- 
vated spirits  ;  the  snow,  it  is  true,  lay  deeper  and 
deeper  as  they  advanced,  but  they  trudged  on 
merrily,  considering  themselves  well  provided  for 
the  journey,  which  could  not  be  of  much  longer 
duration. 

They  had  intended  to  proceed  up  the  banks  of 
Gun  Creek,  a  stream  which  flows  into  Snake 
River  from  the  west ;  but  were  assured  by  the 
uativtfs  that  the  route  in  that  direction  was  irn* 


AN  LyMAi\    GUIDE. 


311 


\\\ 


lM(S;|^ 


was  iiH' 


practicable.  The  latter  advised  them  to  keep 
along  Snake  River,  where  they  would  not  be  im- 
peded by  the  snow.  Taking  one  of  the  Diggers 
for  a  guide,  they  set  off  along  tlie  river,  and  to 
tiieir  joy  soon  found  the  country  free  from  snow, 
as  had  been  predicted,  so  that  their  horses  once 
more  had  the  benefit  of  tolerable  pasturage. 
Their  Digger  proved  an  excellent  guide,  trudg- 
ing cheerily  in  the  advance.  He  made  an  un- 
successful shot  or  two  at  a  deer  and  a  beaver, 
but  at  night  found  a  rabbit  hole,  whence  he  ex- 
tracted the  occupant,  upon  which,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  a  fish  given  him  by  the  travellers,  he  made 
a  hearty  supper,  and  retired  to  rest,  filled  with 
good  cheer  and  good  humor. 

The  next  day  the  travellers  came  to  where  the 
hills  closed  upon  the  river,  leaving  here  and  there 
intervals  of  undulating  meadow  land.  The  river 
was  sheeted  with  ice,  broken  into  hills  at  long  in- 
tervals. The  Digger  kept  on  ahead  of  the  party, 
crossing  and  recrossing  the  river  in  pursuit  of 
game,  until,  unluckily,  encountering  a  brother 
Digger,  he  stole  off  with  him,  withouit  the  cere- 
mony of  leave-taking. 

Being  now  left  to  themselves,  they  proceeded 
until  they  came  to  some  Indian  huts,  the  inhabi- 
tants of  which  spoke  a  language  totally  different 
from  any  they  had  yet  heard.  One,  however, 
understood  the  Nez  Perce  lanojuaoje,  and  through 
him  they  made  inquiries  as  to  their  route.  These 
Indians  were  extremely  kind  and  honest,  and  fur- 
oished  them  with  a  small  quantity  of  meat  ;  but 
uoue  of  them  could  be  induced  to  act  as  guides 


;    ; 


812 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Immediutely  in  the  route  of  the  travellers  Xay 
a  high  mountain,  vvhicij  they  ascended  with  some 
dilHculty.  The  prospect  I'rom  the  summit  was 
grand  but  disheartening.  Directly  before  them 
towered  the  loftiest  peaks  of  Immahah,  rising 
far  higher  than  the  elevated  ground  on  which 
they  stood  ;  on  the  other  hand,  they  were  en- 
abled to  scan  the  course  of  the  river,  dashing 
along  through  deep  chasms,  between  rocks  and 
precipices,  until  lost  in  a  distant  wilderness  of 
mountains,  which  closed  the  savage  landscape. 

They  remained  for  a  long  time  contemplating, 
with  perplexed  and  anxious  eye,  this  wild  congre- 
gation of  mountain  barriers,  and  seeking  to  dis- 
cover some  practicable  passage.  The  approach 
of  evening  obliged  them  to  give  up  the  task,  and 
to  seek  some  camping  ground  for  the  night.  Mov- 
ing bribkly  forward,  and  plunging  and  tossing 
through  a  succession  of  deep  snow-drifts  they  at 
length  reached  a  valley  known  among  trappers 
as  the  "  Grand  liond,"  which  they  found  entirely 
free  from  snow. 

This  is  a  beautiful  and  very  fertile  valley,  about 
twenty  miles  long  and  five  or  six  broad  ;  a  bright 
cold  stream  called  the  Fourche  de  Glace^  or  Ice 
River,  runs  through  it.  Its  sheltered  situation, 
embosomed  in  mountains,  renders  it  good  pastur- 
ing ground  in  the  winter  time  ;  when  the  elk 
come  down  to  it  in  great  numbers,  driven  out  of 
the  mountains  by  the  snow.  The  Indians  then 
resort  to  it  to  hunt.  They  likewise  come  to  it 
»n  the  summer  time  to  dig  the  camash  root,  of 
which  it  produces    immense  quantities.      Wheii 


DIFFICULTIES   01^  SiVAKK  RIVER.      313 

this  plant  is  in  blossom,  the  whole  valic)-  is  tinted 
by  its  blue  fiowers,  and  looks  like  the  o'  can  when 
overcast  by  a  cloud. 

After  passing  a  night  '\\\  this  valley,  the  travel- 
lers in  the  morning  scaled  the  neighboring  hills, 
to  look  out  for  a  more  eligible  route  than  that 
upon  which  they  had  uiduckily  fallen  ;  and,  after 
much  reconnoitring,  determined  to  make  their 
way  once  more  to  the  river,  and  to  travel  upon 
the  ice  when  the  banks  should  prove  impassable. 
On  the  second  day  after  this  determination,  they 
were  again  upon  Snake  River,  but,  contrary  to 
their  expectations,  it  was  nearly  free  from  ice. 
A  narrow  ribbon  ran  along  the  shore,  and  some- 
times there  was  a  kind  of  bridge  across  the 
stream,  formed  of  old  ice  and  snow.  For  a  short 
time  they  jogged  along  the  bank  with  tolerable 
facility,  but  at  length  came  to  where  the  river 
forced  its  way  intc  the  heart  of  the  mountains, 
winding  between  tremendous  walls  of  basaltic 
rock,  that  rose  perpendicularly  from  the  water 
edge,  frowning  in  bleak  and  gloomy  grandeur. 
Here  difficulties  of  all  kinds  beset  their  path. 
The  snow  was  from  two  to  three  feet  deep,  but 
soft  and  yielding,  so  that  the  horses  had  no  foot- 
hold, but  kept  plunging  forward,  straining  them- 
selves by  perpetual  efforts.  Sometimes  the  crags 
and  promontories  forced  them  upon  the  narrow 
ribbon  of  ice  that  bordered  the  shore  ;  sometimes 
tiiey  had  to  scramble  over  vast  masses  of  rock 
which  had  tumbled  from  the  impending  preci- 
pices ;  sometimes  they  had  to  ci'oss  the  stream 
up)n  the  hazardous  bridges  of  ico  und  suow,  sink 


1  ^ 

! 

Ji 

t 

i 

1 

1 

t«! 

m 


!  I' 


814 


BONNEVILLE: a  ADVENTURES, 


9iii' 


iiig  to  tlie  knee  nt  every  step  ;  sometimes  they  had 
to  scale  slippery  acclivilies,  and  to  pass  along  nar- 
row cornices  glazed  with  ice  and  sleet,  a  shoulder- 
ing wall  of  rock  on  one  side,  a  yawning  pi'ecipice 
on  the  other,  where  a  single  false  siej)  would  have 
been  fatal.  In  a  lower  and  less  dangerous  pass 
two  of  their  horses  actually  fell  into  the  river, 
one  was  saved  with  much  dilliculty,  but  the  bold- 
ness of  the  shore  prevented  their  rescuing  the 
other,  and  he  was  swept  away  by  the  rapid  current. 

In  this  way  they  struggled  forward,  manfully 
braving  ditliculties  and  dangers,  until  they  came 
to  where  the  bed  of  the  river  was  narrowed  to  a 
mere  chasm,  with  perpendicular  walls  of  rock  that 
CK^Hed  all  further  progress.  Turning  their  faces 
now  to  the  mountain,  they  endeavored  to  cross 
directly  over  it  ;  but,  after  chunbering  nearly  to 
the  summit,  found  their  path  closed  by  insur- 
mountable barriers. 

Nothing  now  remained  but  to  retrace  their 
step::.  To  descend  a  cragged  mountain,  how- 
ever, was  more  ditficult  and  dangerous  than  to 
ascend  it.  They  had  to  lower  themselves,  cau- 
tiously and  slowl)',  from  steep  to  steep  ;  and,  while 
they  managed  with  difficulty  to  maintain  their 
own  footing,  to  aid  their  horses  by  holding  on 
lirmly  to  the  rope  halters,  as  the  poor  animals 
stumbled  among  slippery  rocks,  or  slid  down  icy 
declivities.  Thus,  after  a  day  of  intense  cold,  and 
severe  and  incessant  toil,  amidst  the  wildest  of 
Bcenery,  they  managed,  about  nightfall,  to  reacli 
the  camping  ground  from  which  they  had  started 
in  the  morning,  and  for  the  tirst  time  iu  the  course 


BCALING    THE  BLUK  MOUNTAINS,      315 

of  their  nijjged  and  perilous  expedition  felt  their 
hearts  quailing  under  their   multiplied  hardships. 

A  luarty  supper,  a  tranquilizin^  pip«»  and  a 
sound  night's  sleep,  put  them  all  in  better  mood, 
and  in  the  morning  they  held  a  consultation  as  to 
their  future  movements.  Abnit  four  miles  be- 
hind, tliey  had  remarked  a  small  ridge  of  moun- 
tains approaching  closely  to  the  river.  It  was 
determined  to  scale  this  ridge,  and  seek  a  passage 
into  the  valley  which  must  lie  beyond.  Should 
they  fail  in  this,  but  one  alternative  remained — 
To  kill  their  horses,  dry  the  flesh  for  provisions, 
make  boats  of  the  hides,  and  in  these  commit 
themselves  to  the  stream  —  a  measure  hazardous 
in  the  extreme. 

A  short  march  brought  them  to  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  but  its  steep  and  cragged  sides  almost 
discouraged  hope.  The  only  chance  of  scaling  it 
was  by  broken  masses  of  rock,  piled  one  upon 
another,  which  formed  a  succession  of  crags, 
reaching  nearly  to  the  summit.  Up  these  they 
wrought  their  way  with  indescribable  difficulty 
and  peril,  in  a  zigzag  course,  climbing  from  rock 
to  rock,  and  helping  their  horses  up  after  them; 
wliich  scrambled  among  the  crags  like  mountain 
goats ;  now  and  then  dislodging  some  huge  stone, 
which,  the  moment  they  had  left  it,  would  roll 
down  the  mountain,  crashing  and  rebounding  with 
terrific  din.  It  was  some  time  after  dark  before 
they  reached  a  kind  of  platform  on  the  summit 
of  the  mountain,  where  they  could  venture  to  en- 
camp. The  winds,  which  swept  this  naked 
height,  had  whirled  all  the  snow  into  the  valley 


:|f.|t 


jjggggBlpaBiiBIt 


dl6 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


mm 


beneath,  so  that  the  liorses  found  tolerable  winter 
pasturage  on  the  dry  gi-ass  which  remained  ex- 
posed. The  travellers,  though  hungry  in  the  ex- 
treme, were  fain  to  make  a  very  frugal  supper , 
for  they  saw  their  journey  was  likely  to  be  pro- 
longed much  beyond  the  anticipated  term. 

In  fact,  on  the  following  day  they  discerned 
that,  although  already  at  a  great  elevation,  they 
were  only  as  yet  upon  the  shoulder  of  the  moun- 
tain. It  proved  to  be  a  great  sierra,  or  ridge,  of 
immense  height,  running  parallel  to  the  course  of 
the  river,  swelling  by  degrees  to  lofty  peaks,  but 
tlie  outline  gashed  by  deep  and  precipitous  ra- 
vines. This,  in  fact,  was  a  part  of  the  chain  of 
Blue  Mountains,  in  which  the  first  adventurers 
to  Astoria  experienced  such  hardships. 

We  will  not  pretend  to  accompany  the  travel- 
lers step  by  step  in  this  tremendous  mountain 
scramble,  into  which  tlit^y  had  unconsciously  be- 
trayed themselves.  Day  jifter  day  did  their  toil 
continue  ;  peak  after  peak  had  they  to  traverse, 
struggling  wiUi  difficulties  and  hardships  known 
only  to  the  mountain  trapper.  As  their  course 
lay  north,  they  had  to  ascend  the  southern  faces 
of  the  heights,  where  the  sun  had  melted  the 
snow,  so  as  to  render  the  ascent  wet  and  slippery, 
and  to  keep  both  men  and  horses  continually  on 
the  strain  ;  while  on  the  northern  sides,  the  snow 
iay  in  such  heavy  masses  that  it  was  necessary 
to  beat  a  track,  down  which  the  horses  might  be 
led.  Every  now  and  then,  also,  their  way  was 
impeded  by  tall  and  numerous  pines,  some  of 
which  had  fallen,  and  lay  in  every  direction. 


SUFFERINGS  FROM  HUNGER. 


317 


i^n 


In  the  midst  of  these  toils  and  hardships  their 
provisions  gave  out.  For  three  days  they  were 
without  food,  and  so  reduced  that  they  could 
scarcely  dnig  themselves  along.  At  length  one 
of  the  mules,  being  about  to  give  out  from  fa- 
tigue and  famine,  they  iiastened  to  dispatch  him. 
Husbanding  this  miserable  supply,  they  dried  the 
flesh,  and  for  three  days  subsisted  upon  the  nu- 
triment extracted  from  the  bones.  As  to  tlie 
meat,  it  was  packed  and  preserved  as  long  as 
they  could  do  without  it,  not  knowing  how  long 
they  might  remain  bewildered  in  these  desolate 


i    I 


regions. 


One  of  the  men  was  now  dispatched  ahead  to 
reconnoitre  the  country,  and  to  discover,  if  pos- 
sible, some  more  practiciible  route.  In  the  mean- 
time, the  rest  of  the  party  moved  on  slowly. 
After  a  lapse  of  three  days,  the  scout  rtjoined 
them.  Ho  informed  them  that  Snake  River  ran 
immediately  below  the  sierra  or  mountainous 
ridge  upon  which  they  were  travelling  ;  that  it 
was  free  from  precipices,  and  was  at  no  great 
distance  from  them  in  a  direct  line  ;  but  that  it 
would  be  impossible  for  them  to  reach  it  without 
making  a  weary  circuit.  Their  only  course 
would  be  to  cross  the  mountain  ridge  to  the  left. 

Up  this  mountain,  itherefbre,  the  weary  trav- 
ellers directed  their  steps  ;  and  the  ascent,  in 
their  present  weak  and  exhausted  state,  was  one 
of  the  severest  parts  of  this  most  painful  journey. 
For  two  days  were  they  toiling  slowly  from  cliff 
to  cliff,  beating  at  every  step  a  path  through  the 
ftnow  for  their  faltering  horses.     At  length  they 


mu'' 


mi' 


^iM; 


i 


518 


BONNEVILLE? S  ADVENTURES, 


reached  the  summit,  where  the  snow  was  blown 
off;  but  ill  descending  on  the  oi)posite  side,  they 
were  often  plunging  through  deep  drifts,  piled  in 
the  hollows  and  lavines. 

Their  provisions  were  now  exhausted,  and 
they  and  their  horses  almost  ready  to  give  out 
with  fatigue  and  hmiger,  when  one  afternoon, 
just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  behind  a  blue  line 
of  distant  mountain,  they  came  to  the  brow  of  a 
height  from  which  they  beheld  the  smooth  valley 
of  the  Immahah  stretched  out  in  smiling  verdure 
below  them. 

The  sight  inspired  almost  a  frenzy  of  delight. 
Roused  to  new  ardor,  they  forgot  for  a  time  their 
fatigues,  and  hurried  down  the  mountain,  dragging 
their  jaded  horses  after  them,  and  sometimes 
compelling  them  to  slide  a  distance  of  thirty  or 
forty  feet  at  a  time.  At  length  they  reached  the 
banks  of  the  Immahah.  Tiie  young  grass  was 
just  beginning  to  sprout,  and  the  whole  valley 
wore  an  aspect  of  softness,  verdure,  and  repose, 
heiijrhtened  bv  the  contrast  of  the  frightful  re<»ion 
from  which  they  had  just  descended.  To  add  to 
their  joy,  they  observed  Indian  trails  along  the 
margin  of  the  stream,  and  other  signs  which  gave 
them  reason  to  believe  that  there  was  an  en- 
campment of  the  Lower  Nez  Perces  in  the 
neigliborhood,  as  it  was  within  the  accustomed 
range  of  that  pacific  and  hospitable  tribe. 

The  prospect  of  a  supply  of  food  stimulated 
them  to  new  exertion,  ai  d  they  continued  on  as 
fast  as  the  enfeebled  state  of  themselves  and  their 
Bteeds  would  permit.     At  length,  one  of  the  men, 


THE  EXHAUSTED    TRAVELLER. 


319 


,  blown 
3e,  they 
piled  in 

etl,  and 
rive  out 
'ternoon, 
)lue  lino 
row  of  a 
,h  valley 
verdure 

[  delight. 

ime  their 
dragging 

,ometimes 
thirty  or 

ached  the 

crrass  was 

Die  valley 
d  repose, 
ul  region 
To  add  to 
along  the 
hich  gave 
as  an  en- 

les    in   the 
ccustomed 

Ue. 
stimulated 

ued  on  as 

i»  and  their 

)f  the  men, 


more  exhausted  than  the  rest,  threw  himself  upcn 
grass,  and  declared  he  could  go  no  further.  It 
was  in  vain  to  attempt  to  rouse  him  ;  his  spirit 
had  given  out,  and  his  replies  only  showed  the 
dogged  apathy  of  despair.  His  companions, 
therefore,  encamped  on  the  spot,  kindled  a  blazing 
lire,  and  searched  about  for  roots  with  v/hich  to 
strengthen  and  revive  him.  They  all  then  made 
a  starveling  repast ;  but  gathering  round  the  fire, 
talked  over  past  dangers  and  troubles,  soothed 
themselves  witii  the  persuasion  that  all  were 
now  at  an  end,  and  went  to  sleep  with  the  com- 
forting hope  that  the  morrow  would  bring  them 
into  plentiful  quarters. 


!    1 
i    I) 


ifir' 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


:« 


and 


Progress  in  the  valley.  —  An  Indian  cavalier.  —  The  Captain 
falls  into  a  lethargy.  —  A  Nez  Perce  patriarch.  —  Hospit- 
able treatment.  -The  bald  head.  —  Bargaining.  —  Value 
of  an  old  plaid  cloak.  —  The  famil}'  horse.  —  The  cost  of 
an  Indian  present. 

TRANQUIL  night's  rest  had  sufficiently 
restored  the  broken-down  traveller  to 
enable  him  to  resume  his  wayfaring, 
hands  set  forward  on  the  Indian  trail. 
With  all  their  eagerness  to  arrive  within  reach 
of  succor,  sucli  was  their  feeble  and  emaciated 
condition,  that  they  advanced  but  slowly.  Nor 
is  it  a  matter  of  surprise  that  thej^  shoidd  almost 
have  lost  heart  as  well  as  strength.  It  was  now 
(the  16th  of  February)  fifty-three  days  that  they 
had  been  travelling  in  the  midst  of  winter,  ex- 
posed to  all  kinds  of  privations  and  hardships; 
and  for  the  last  twentj'  days  they  had  been  en- 
tangled in  the  wild  and  desolate  labyrinths  of 
the  snowy  mountains  ;  chmbing  and  descending 
icy  precipices,  and  nearly  starved  with  cold  and 
hunger. 

All  the  morning  they  continued  following  the 
Indian  trail  without  seeing  a  human  being,  and 
were  beginning  to  be  discouraged,  when,  about 
uoon,  they  discovered  a  horseman  at  a  distance. 


AN  INDIAN   CAVALIER. 


321 


He  was  coming  directly  towards  them  ;  but  on 
discovering  them,  suddenly  reined  up  his  steed, 
came  to  a  halt,  and,  after  reconnoitring  them  for 
a  time  with  great  earnestness,  seemed  about  to 
make  a  cautious  retreat.  They  eagerly  made 
signs  of  peace,  and  endeavored,  with  the  utmost 
anxiety,  to  induce  him  to  approach.  He  re- 
mained for  some  time  in  doubt;  but  at  length, 
having  satisfied  himself  that  they  were  not  ene- 
mies, came  galloping  up  to  them.  He  was  a 
fine,  haughty -looking  savage,  fancifully  decorated, 
and  mounted  on  a  high-mettled  steed,  with  gaudy 
trappings  and  equipments.  It  was  evident  that 
he  was  a  warrior  c  "lie  consequence  among  his 
tribe.  His  whole  deportment  had  something  iu 
it  of  barbaric  dignity  ;  he  felt,  perhaps,  his  tem- 
porary superiority  in  personal  array,  and  in  the 
spirit  of  his  steed,  to  the  poor,  ragged,  travel- 
worn  trappers,  and  their  half-starved  horses. 
Approaching  them  with  an  air  of  protection,  he 
gave  them  his  hand,  and,  in  the  Nez  Perce  lan- 
guage, invited  them  to  his  camp,  which  was  only 
a  few  miles  distant ;  where  he  had  plenty  to  eat, 
and  plenty  of  horses,  and  would  cheerfully  share 
his  good  things  with  them. 

His  hospitable  invitation  was  joyfully  accepted ; 
he  lingered  but  a  moment,  to  give  directions  by 
which  they  might  find  his  camp,  and  then,  wheel- 
ing round,  and  giving  reins  to  his  mettlesome 
steed,  was  soon  out  of  sight.  The  travellers  fol- 
lowed with  gladdened  hearts,  but  at  a  snail's 
pace  ;  for  their  poor  horses  could  scarcely  drag 
oue   leg  after  the  other.      Captiiiu   Bonneville, 

21 


j  ! 


522 


B UNNE  VILLUS  A  D  VEN TUHES. 


however,  experienced  a  sudden  and  singular 
change  of  feeling.  Hitherto,  the  necessity  of 
conducting  his  party,  and  of  providing  against 
every  emergency,  had  kept  his  mind  upon  the 
stretch,  and  his  whole  system  braced  and  excited. 
In  no  one  instance  had  he  flagged  in  spirit,  or 
felt  disposed  to  succumb.  Now,  however,  that 
all  danger  was  over,  and  the  march  of  a  few 
miles  would  bring  them  to  repose  and  abundance, 
his  energies  suddenly  deserted  him;  and  every 
faculty,  mental  and  physical,  was  totally  relaxed. 
He  had  not  proceeded  two  miles  from  the  point 
where  he  had  ha(I  the  interview  with  the  Nez 
Perce  chief,  when  he  threw  himself  upon  the 
earth,  without  the  power  or  will  to  move  a  mus- 
cle, or  exert  a  thought,  and  sank  almost  instantly 
into  a  profound  and  dreamless  sleep.  His  com- 
panions again  came  to  a  halt,  and  encamped  be- 
side him,  and  there  they  passed  the  night. 

The  next  morning  Captain  Bonneville  awak- 
ened from  his  long  and  licavy  sleep,  much  re- 
freshed ;  and  they  ail  resumed  their  creeping 
progress.  They  had  not  been  long  on  the  march, 
when  eight  or  ten  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe  came 
galloping  to  meet  them,  leading  fresh  horses 
to  bear  them  to  their  camp.  Thus  gallantly 
mounted,  they  felt  new  life  infused  into  their 
languid  frames,  and  dashing  forward,  were  soon 
at  the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perce  s.  Here  they 
found  about  twelve  families  living  together,  under 
the  patriarchal  sway  of  an  ancient  and  venerable 
chief.  He  received  them  with  the  hospitality  of 
the  golden  age,  and  with  something  of  the  same 


II  OS  PI  TA  DLE    TRKA  TMENT. 


323 


lingular 

isity  of 

poll   tlio 

excited. 

pirit,  or 

rer,  tluit 

if  a  few 

andance, 

id  every 
relaxed. 

he  point 

the   Nez 

ipon   the 

}  a  mus- 
instantly 

His  com- 

baped  be- 
t. 

lie  awak- 

much  re- 
creeping 

he  march, 
ribe  came 
sh    horses 
gallantly 
into   their 
^ere  soon 
lere  they 
her,  mider 
venerable 
pitality  of 
the  samo 


kind  of  fiire  ;  for  while  he  opened  liis  arms  to 
make  them  welcome,  the  only  repast  he  set  be- 
fore them  consisted  of  roots.  They  conld  have 
wished  for  something  more  liearty  and  substan- 
tial ;  but,  for  want  of  better,  made  a  voracious 
meal  on  these  humble  viands.  Tiie  rei)ast  being 
over,  the  best  pipe  was  lighted  and  sent  round ; 
and  this  was  a  most  welcome  luxury,  having  lost 
their  smoking  apparatus  twelve  days  before, 
among  the  mountains. 

While  they  were  thus  enjoying  themselves, 
their  poor  horses  were  led  to  the  best  pastures 
in  the  neighborhood,  where  they  were  turned 
loose  to  revel  on  the  fresh  sprouting  grass  ;  so 
that  they  had  better  fare  than  their  masters. 

Captain  Bonneville  soon  felt  himself  quite  at 
home  among  these  quiet,  inoffensive  people.  His 
long  residence  among  their  cousins,  the  Upper 
Nez  Perces,  had  made  him  conversant  with  their 
language,  modes  of  expression,  and  all  their  hab- 
itudes. He  soon  found,  too,  that  he  was  well 
known  among  them,  by  report,  at  least,  from  the 
constant  interchange  of  visits  and  messages  be- 
tween the  two  branches  of  the  tribe.  Tliey  at 
first  addressed  him  by  his  name,  giving  him  his 
title  of  captain,  with  a  French  accent ;  but  they 
soon  gave  him  a  title  of  their  own,  which,  as 
usual  with  Indian  titles,  had  a  peculiar  significa- 
tion, in  the  case  of  the  captain,  it  had  some- 
what of  a  whimsical  origin. 

,  As  he  sat  chatting  and  smoking  in  the  midst 
of  them,  he  would  occasionally  take  off  his  cap. 
AVTienever  he  did   so,  there  was   a   sensation  in 


ill! 


n|  ;:!!: 


324 


B ONNE  VILLhyS  A  D  VENTURES. 


the  surrounding  circle.  The  Indians  would  half 
rise  from  their  recumbent  posture,  and  gaze  upon 
his  uncovered  head,  with  tiieir  usual  exclamation 
of  astonishment.  The  worthy  captain  was  com- 
pletely bald ;  a  phenomenon  very  surprising 
in  their  eyes.  They  were  at  a  loss  to  know 
whether  he  had  been  sciilped  in  battle,  or  en- 
joyed a  natural  immunity  from  that  belligerent 
iiilliction.  In  a  little  while,  he  became  known 
among  them  by  an  Indian  name,  signifying  "  the 
bald  chief."  "  A  soubriquet,"  observes  the  cap- 
tain, "  for  which  I  can  find  no  parallel  in  history 
since  the  days  of  '  Charles  the  Bald.'  " 

Although  the  travellers  had  banqueted  on  roots, 
and  been  regaled  with  tobacco  smoke,  yet  their 
stomachs  craved  more  generous  fare.  In  ap- 
proaching the  lodges  of  the  Nez  Perces,  they  had 
mdulged  in  fond  anticipations  of  venison  and  dried 
salmon ;  and  dreams  of  the  kind  still  haunted  their 
imaginations,  and  could  not  be  conjured  down.  The 
keen  appetites  of  mountain  trappers,  quickened 
by  a  fortnight's  fasting,  at  length  got  the  better 
of  all  scruples  of  pride,  and  they  fairly  begged 
some  fish  or  flesh  from  the  hospitable  savages. 
The  latter,  however  were  slow  to  break  in  upon 
their  winter  store,  which  was  very  limited ;  but 
were  ready  to  furnish  roots  in  abundance,  which 
they  pronounced  excellent  food.  At  length, 
Captain  Bonneville  thought  of  a  means  of  attiiin- 
ing  the  much-coveted  gratification. 

He  had  about  him,  he  says,  a  trusty  plaid,  an 
old  and  valued  travelling  companion  and  comforter 
upon  which  the  rauis  had  descended,  and  the  snows 


'^  W"^ 


VALUE   OF  AN   OLD  PLAID   CLOAR.     325 


f!(f'|| 


uld  half 
aze  upon 
ilamatioii 
vas  com- 
iurprising 
to    know 
e,  or  en- 
)elligerent 
le  known 
ying  "the 
i  the  cap- 
in  history 

id  on  roots, 
^  yet  their 
3.     In   ap- 
s,  they  had 
a  and  dried 
unted  their 
down.  The 
quickened 
the  better 
rly  begged 
le  savages. 
;k  in  upon 
mited;  but 
ance,  which 
At   length, 
IS  of  attain- 


7 


plaid,  an 
\  comforter 
d  the  snows 


ftnd  winds  beaten,  without  further  effect  than  some- 
what to  tarnish  its  primitive  lustre.  This  coat 
of  many  colors  had  excited  the  atlmiration,  and 
inflamed  the  covetousness  of  both  warriors  and 
squaws  to  an  extravagant  degree.  An  idea  now 
occurred  to  Captain  Bonneville,  to  convert  tliia 
rainbow  garment  into  the  savory  viands  so  much 
desired.  There  was  a  momentary  struggle  in  his 
mind  between  old  associations  and  projected  in- 
dulgence ;  and  his  decision  in  favor  of  the  latter 
was  made,  he  says,  with  a  greater  promptness, 
perhaps,  than  true  taste  and  sentiment  might  have 
required.  In  a  few  moments,  his  plaid  cloak  was 
cut  into  numerous  strips.  "  Of  these,"  continues 
he,  "  with  the  newly  developed  talent  of  a  man- 
millitier,  I  speedily  constructed  turbans  a  la 
Turque,  and  fanciful  head-gears  of  divers  con- 
formations. These,  judiciously  distributed  among 
Buch  of  the  vtromenkind  as  seemed  of  most  con- 
sequence and  interest  in  the  eyes  of  the  patres 
conscripii^  brought  us,  in  a  little  while,  abundance 
of  dried  salmon  and  deers'  hearts ;  on  which  we 
made  ^  sumptuous  supper.  Another,  and  a  more 
satisfactory  smoke,  succeeded  this  repast,  and  sweet 
slumbers  answering  the  peaceful  invocation  of  our 
pipes,  wrapped  us  in  that  delicious  rest  which  is 
only  won  by  toil  and  travail." 

As  to  Captain  Bonneville,  he  slept  in  the  lodge 
of  the  venerable  patriarch,  who  had  evidently  con 
ceived  a  most  disinterested  affection  for  him,  as 
was  shown  on  the  following  morning.  The  trav- 
ellers, invigorated  by  a  good  supper  and  "  fresh 
from  the  bath  of  repose,"  were  about  to  resume 


!  i 


mm 


iimn 


* 


11,.!^ 


826 


B ONNE  VILLE-S  AD  VEN  TUBES. 


their  journey,  when  this  affectionate  old  c'liief  took 
the  Ciptain  aside,  to  let  him  know  how  much  he 
loved  him.  As  a  proof  of  his  regard,  he  had 
determined  to  give  him  a  fine  horse,  wliich  would 
go  further  than  words,  and  put  his  good- will  he- 
yond  all  question.  So  saying,  he  made  a  signal, 
and  forthwith  a  beautiful  young  horse  of  a  brown 
color,  was  led,  prancing  and  snorting,  to  the  place. 
Captain  Bonneville  was  suitably  affected  by  this 
mark  of  friendship ;  but  his  experience  in  what  is 
proverbially  called  "  Indian  giving,"  made  him 
aware  that  a  parting  pledge  was  necessary  on  his 
own  part,  to  prove  that  his  friendship  was 
reciprocated.  He  accordingly  placed  a  handsome 
riffe  in  the  hands  of  the  venerable  chief,  whose 
benevolent  heart  was  evidently  touched  and  grati- 
fied by  this  outward  and  visible  sign  of  amity. 

Having  now,  as  he  thought,  balanced  this  little 
account  of  friendship,  the  captain  was  about  to 
shift  his  saddle  to  this  noble  gift-horse,  when  the 
affectionate  patriarch  plucked  him  by  the  sleeve, 
and  introduced  to  him  a  whimpering,  whining, 
leathern-skinned  old  squaw,  that  might  have 
passed  for  an  Egyptian  mummy  without  drying. 
"  This,"  said  he,  "  is  my  wife :  she  is  a  good  wife  — 
I  love  her  very  much.  —  She  loves  the  horse  — 
she  loves  him  a  great  deal  —  she  will  cry  very 
much  at  losing  him. —  I  do  not  know  how  I  shall 
comfort  her  —  and  that  makes  my  heart  very  sore." 

What  could  the  worthy  captain  do,  to  console 
the  tender-hearted  old  squaw,  and,  peradventure, 
to  save  the  venerable  patriarch  from  a  curtain 
lecture  ?     He  bethought  himself  of  a  pair  of  ear- 


COST  OF  AN  INDIAN  PliFSFNT.        327 

bobs:  it  was  true,  the  patriarch's  better-half  waa 
of  an  age  and  appearance  tliat  seemed  to  put 
personal  vanity  out  of  the  question,  but  when  is 
personal  va/iity  extinct?  The  moment  he  produced 
the  glittering  ear-bobs,  the  whimpering  and  whin- 
ing of  the  sempiternal  beldame  was  at  an  end. 
She  eagerly  placed  the  precious  baubles  in  her 
ears,  and,  though  as  ugly  as  the  Witch  of  Kndor, 
went  oir  with  a  sideling  gait,  and  cocpiettish  air, 
as  though  she  had  been  a  perfect  Semirarais. 

The  cai)tain  had  no^v  saddled  his  newly  acquired 
steed,  and  his  foot  was  in  the  stirrup,  when  the 
affectionate  patriarch  again  stepped  forward,  and 
presented  to  him  a  young  Pierced-nose,  who  had 
a  peculiarly  sulky  look.  "  This,"  said  the  vener- 
able chief,  "  is  my  son  :  he  is  very  —  good  a  great 
horseman  —  he  always  took  care  of  this  very  fine 
horse  —  he  brought  him  up  from  a  colt,  and  made 
him  what  he  is. —  He  is  very  fond  of  this  fine 
horse  —  he  loves  hiuy  like  a  brother  —  his  heart 
will  be  very  heavy  when  this  fine  horse  leaves 
the  camp." 

AVTiat  coulvl  the  captain  do  to  veward  the  youth- 
ful hope  of  this  venerable  pair,  and  comfort  hira 
for  the  loss  of  his  foster-brother,  the  horse  ?  He 
bethought  him  of  a  hatchet,  which  might  be  spared 
from  his  slender  stores.  No  r  Doner  did  he  place 
the  implement  in  the  hands  of  young  hopeful, 
than  his  countenance  brightened  up,  and  he  went 
off  rejoicing  in  his  hatchet,  to  the  full  as  much  as 
did  his  respectable  mother  in  her  ear-bobs. 

The  Ciiptain  was  now  in  the  saddle,  and  xbout 
to  start,  v'hen  the  affectionate  old  patriarch  stepped 


I" 

n 

I  jl 


p 


I 


828 


/? ONNE VILLfrS  AD VEN T VRES. 


forward,  for  the  third  time,  and,  while  he  hiid  one 
hand  gently  on  the  mane  of  the  liorse,  held  up 
the  rille  in  the  other.  "  This  riHe,"  said  he, "  shall 
he  my  gi*eat  medicine.  I  will  hug  it  to  my  heart — ■ 
I  will  always  love  it,  for  the  sake  of  my  good 
friend,  the  bald-headed  chief.  But  a  rifle,  by 
itself,  is  dumb  —  I  cannot  make  it  speak.  If  I 
had  a  little  powder  and  ball,  I  would  take  it  out 
with  me,  and  would  now  and  then  shoot  a  deer ; 
and  when  I  brought  the  meat  home  to  my  hungry 
family,  I  would  say  —  This  was  killed  by  the  rifle 
of  my  friend,  the  bald-headed  chief,  to  whom  I 
gave  that  very  fine  horse." 

There  was  no  resisting  this  appeal :  the  captain 
forthwith  furnished  the  coveted  supply  of  powder 
and  ball ;  but  at  the  same  time  put  spurs  to  his 
very  fine  gift-horse,  and  the  first  trial  of  his  speed 
was  to  get  out  of  all  further  manifestation  of 
friendship  on  the  part  of  the  affectionate  olci 
patriarch  and  his  insmuating  family. 


CHAPTER   XXXir. 

Nez  Perc^  camp.  —  A  chief  with  a  hard  name.  —The  Big 
Hearts  of  the  east.  —  Hospitable  treatment.  —  Tlie  Indian 
piiides. — Mysterious  councils. — The  loquacious  chief—. 
Indian  tomb.  —  Grand  Indian  reception. —  An  Indian  feast. 
—  Town  criers.  —  Honesty  of  the  Nez  Tercds.  —  The  cap- 
tain's attempt  at  healing. 

OLLOWING  the  course  of  the  Imma- 
hah,  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  three 
companions  soon  reached  the  vicinity 
of  Snake  River.  Their  route  now  lay  over  a 
succession  of  steep  and  isolated  hills,  with  pro- 
found valleys.  On  the  second  day  after  taking 
leave  of  the  affectionate  old  patriarch,  as  they 
were  descending  into  one  of  those  deep  and 
abrupt  intervals,  they  descried  a  smoke,  and 
shortly  afterwards  came  in  sight  of  a  small  en- 
campment of  Nez  Perces. 

The  Indians,  when  they  ascertained  that  it 
was  a  party  of  white  men  approaching,  greeted 
them  with  a  salute  of  fire-arms,  and  invited  them 
to  encamp.  This  band  was  likewise  under  the 
sway  of  a  venerable  chief  named  Yo-mus-ro-y-e- 
cut ;  a  name  which  we  shall  be  careful  not  to 
inflict  oftener  than  is  necessary  upon  the  reader. 
This  ancient  and  hard-named  chieftain  welcomed 
Captain  Bonne^ille  to  his  camp  with  the  same 


\ 


lit! 


ill 


: 

1 

1 

"ff 

1 

HI 

mi 


■ffi 

Hi:   '  i^ 


330 


n ONNE villf: a  ad  ven t ures. 


hospitality  and  loving-kindness  that  he  had  ex- 
j)erienc6d  from  his  predecessors.  He  told  the 
captain  that  he  had  often  heard  of  tlie  A  .ericans 
and  their  generous  deeds,  and  that  his  buffalo 
brethren  (the  U^  aer  Nez  Perces)  had  always 
spoken  of  them  as  the  Big-hearted  whites  of  the 
East,  the  very  good  friends  of  the  Nez  Perces. 

Captain  Bonneville  felt  somewhat  uneasy 
under  the  responsibility  of  this  magnanimous  but 
costly  appellation ;  and  began  to  fear  he  might 
be  involved  in  a  second  interchange  of  pledges 
of  friendship.  He  hastened,  therefore,  to  let  the 
old  chief  ^:^now  his  poverty-stricken  state,  and 
how  little  there  was  to  l)e  expected  from  him. 

He  informed  him  that  he  and  his  comrades 
had  long  resided  among  the  Upper  Nez  Perces, 
and  loved  them  i:'^  iiuch  that  they  had  thro\VTi 
their  arms  arc  and  ciiem,  and  now  held  them  close 
to  their  hearts.  Tliu  lie  had  received  such  ijood 
accounts  from  the  Upp*er  Nez  Perces  of  their 
cousins  the  Lower  Nez  Perces,  that  he  harl 
become  desirous  of  knowing  them  as  friends  and 
brothers.  That  he  and  his  companions  had  ac- 
cordingly loaded  a  mule  with  presents  and  set  off 
for  the  country  of  the  Lower  Nez  Percys ;  but, 
unfortunately,  had  been  entrapped  for  many  days 
among  the  snowy  mountains  ;  and  that  the  mule 
with  all  the  presents  had  fallen  into  Snake  River, 
and  been  swept  away  by  the  rapid  current 
That  instead,  therefore,  of  arriving  among  their 
friends,  the  Nez  Perces,  with  light  hearts  and 
full  hands,  they  came  naked,  hungry,  and  broken 
down ;    and  instead  of   making    them    presents, 


HOSPITA BLE    TREA  TMENT, 


331 


•;    i\\ 


■^^. 


'W 


must,  depend  ujion  them  even  for  food.  "  But," 
concluded  he,  "  we  are  going  to  the  white  men's 
fort  on  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  will  soon  return  ; 
and  then  we  will  meet  our  Nez  Perce  friends 
like  the  true  Hig  Hearts  of  the  East." 

Whether  the  hint  tiirown  out  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  speech  had  any  effect,  or  whether  the 
old  chief  acted  from  the  hos})itahle  feelings  which, 
according  to  the  captain,  are  really  inherent  in 
the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  he  certainly  showed  no  dis- 
position to  relax  his  friendship  on  learning  the 
destitute  circumstances  of  his  guests.  On  the 
contraiy,  he  urged  the  captjun  to  remain  with 
them  until  the  followiiijj  dav,  when  he  would  ac- 
company  him  on  his  journey,  and  make  him  jic- 
(juauited  with  all  his  people.  In  the  meantime, 
hf*  would  have  a  colt  killed  and  cut  up  for  trav- 
elling provisions.  This,  he  carefully  explained, 
was  intended  not  as  an  article  of  traffic,  but  as  a 
gift ;  for  he  saw  that  his  guests  were  hungry  and 
In  need  of  food. 

Captain  Bonneville  gladly  assented  to  his  hos- 
pitable arrangement.  The  carcass  of  the  colt 
was  forthcoming  in  due  season,  but  the  captain 
insisted  that  one  half  of  it  should  be  set  apart  for 
the  use  of  the  chieftaiirs  family. 

At  an  early  hour  of  the  following  morning, 
the  little  party  resume<l  their  journey,  accom- 
panied by  the  old  chief  and  an  Indian  guide. 
Their  route  was  over  a  ru<>ijed  and  broken 
country,  whei'e  the  hills  were  slippery  with  ice 
and  snow.  Their  horses,  too,  were  so  weak  and 
jaded    that  they  could  scarcely  climb  the  steep 


nair  ■>"> 


11  iiiai; 


r  J  c    ■  •            }- 

|[^^BBHBUi 

i         i 

^^^H 

ijH^^^^^^^^^^^W 

iHS^^^^^^I^Hf  ^ 

;• 

1^™!' 

^^^^■h^^^  ■  l^. 

332 


5 0^  NE VI LL E' S  AD  VEN TUB^S. 


ascents,  or  maintain  their  foothold  on  one  frozen 
declivities.  Throughout  the  whole  of  the  jour- 
ney, the  old  chief  and  the  guide  were  unremitting 
in  their  good  offices,  and  continually  on  the  alert 
to  select  the  best  roads,  and  assist  them  through 
all  difficulties.  Indeed,  the  captain  and  his  com- 
rades had  to  be  dependent  on  their  Indian  friends 
for  almost  everything,  for  they  had  lost  their 
tobacco  and  pipes,  those  great  comforts  of  the 
trapper,  and  had  but  a  few  charges  of  powder 
left,  which  it  was  necessary  to  husband  for  the 
purpose  of  lighting  their  fires. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  the  old  chief  had 
several  private  consultations  with  the  guide,  and 
showed  evident  signs  of  being  occupied  with  some 
mysterious  matter  of  mighty  import.  What  it 
was.  Captain  Bonneville  could  not  fathom,  nor 
did  he  make  much  effiDrt  to  do  so.  From  some 
casual  sentences  that  he  overheard,  he  perceived 
that  it  was  something  from  which  the  old  man 
promised  himself  much  satisfaction,  and  to  which 
he  attached  a  little  vainglory,  but  which  he 
wished  to  keep  a  secret ;  so  he  suffered  him  to 
spin  out  his  petty  plans  unmolested. 

In  the  evening  when  they  encamped,  the  old 
chief  and  his  privy  counsellor,  the  guide,  had 
another  mysterious  colloquy,  after  which  the 
guide  mounted  his  horse  and  departed  on  some 
secret  mission,  while  the  chief  resumed  his  seat 
at  the  fire,  and  sat  humming  to  himself  in  a 
pleasing  but  mystic  reverie. 

The  next  morning,  the  travellers  descended 
into  the  valley  of  the  Way-lee- way,  a  considera- 


THE  LOQUACIOUS   CHIEF. 


335 


\\\ 


ble  tributary  of  Snake  River.  Here  they  met 
the  guide  returning  from  his  secret  errand.  An- 
other private  conference  was  lield  between  him 
and  the  old  managing  cliicf,  who  now  seemed 
more  inflated  tlian  ever  with  mystery,  and  self- 
importance.  Numerous  fresh  trails,  and  various 
otiier  signs,  persuaded  Captain  Bonneville  tliat 
there  must  be  a  considerable  village  of  Nez 
Perces  in  the  neighborhood ;  but  as  his  worthy 
companion,  the  old  chief,  said  nothing  on  the  sub- 
ject, and  as  it  appeared  to  be  in  some  way  con- 
nected with  his  secret  operations,  he  asked  no 
questions,  but  patiently  awaited  the  development 
of  his  mystery. 

As  they  journeyed  on,  they  came  to  w.iere 
two  or  three  Indians  were  bathing  in  a  small 
stream.  The  good  old  chief  immediately  came 
to  a  halt,  and  had  a  long  conversation  with  them, 
in  the  course  of  which  he  repeated  to  them  the 
whole  history  which  Captain  Bonneville  had 
related  to  him.  In  fact,  he  seems  to  have  been 
a  very  sociable,  communicative  old  man  ;  by  no 
means  afflicted  with  that  taciturnity  generally 
charged  upon  the  Indians.  On  the  contrary,  he 
was  fond  of  long  talks  and  long  smokings,  and 
evidently  was  proud  of  his  new  friend,  the  bald- 
headed  chief,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  sounding  his 
praises,  and  setting  forth  the  power  and  glory  ot 
the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East. 

Having  disburdened  himself  of  everything  he 
had  to  relate  to  his  bathing  friends,  he  left  them 
U)  their  acpiatic  disports,  and  proceeded  onward 
with  the  captain  and  \\\^  companions.     As  they 


•■       \ 


aifii- 


334 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


approached  the  Way-lec-way,  however,  the  com* 
mnnicjitive  old  chief  met  with  another  and  a  very 
different  occasion  to  exert  liis  colloquial  })owers. 
On  the  banks  of  tlie  river  stood  an  isolated  mound 
covered  with  jrrass.  lie  pohited  to  it  with  somo 
emotion.  "  The  big  heart  and  the  strong  arm," 
said  lie,  "lie  buried  beneath  that  sod." 

It  was,  in  fact,  the  grave  of  one  of  liis  friends, 
a  chosen  warrior  of  the  tribe,  who  had  be;  slain 
on  this  spot  when  in  pursuit  of  a  war  party  of 
Shoshokoes,  who  had  stolen  the  horses  of  the 
village.  The  enemy  bore  off  his  scalp  as  i.  trophy  ; 
but  his  friends  found  his  body  in  this  lonely  place, 
and  committed  it  to  the  earth  with  ceremonials 
charaotci'istic  of  their  pious  and  reverential  feelings. 
They  gathered  round  the  grave  and  mourned ; 
the  warriors  were  silent  in  their  grief;  but  the 
women  and  children  bewailed  their  loss  with  loud 
lamentations.  "  For  three  days,"  said  the  old 
man,  "  we  performed  the  solenm  dances  for  the 
dead,  and  prayed  the  Great  Spirit  that  our  brother 
might  be  happy  in  the  land  of  brave  warriors  and 
hunters.  Then  we  killed  at  his  grave  fifteen  of 
our  best  and  strongest  horses,  to  serve  him  when 
lie  should  arrive  at  the  happy  hunting  grounds  ; 
and  having  done  all  this,  we  returned  sorrowfully 
to  our  homes." 

While  the  chief  was  still  talking,  an  Indian 
scout  came  galloping  up,  and,  presenting  him  with 
a  powder-horn,  wheeled  round,  and  was  speedily 
out  of  sight.  Tlie  eyes  of  the  old  chief  now 
brightenod,  and  all  his  self-importance  returned 
riis  petty  mystery  was  about  to  explode.     Turn 


GRAND  INDIAN  REChPTION. 


335 


iiig  to  Captain  Bonneville,  he  pointed  to  a  hill 
hard  by,  and  informed  him  that  behind  it  was  a 
village  governed  by  a  little  chief,  whom  he  had 
notified  of  the  approach  of  the  bald-headcul  chief, 
and  a  party  of  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East,  and 
that  he  was  prepared  to  receive  them  in  becoming 
style.  As,  among  other  ceremonials,  he  intended 
to  salute  them  with  a  discharge  of  fire-arms,  he 
had  sent  the  }iorn  of  gunpowder  that  they  might 
i-eturn  the  salute  in  a  manner  correspondent  to 
his  dignity. 

They  now  proceeded  on  until  they  doubled  the 
point  of  the  hill,  when  the  whole  population  of 
the  village  broke  upon  their  view,  drawn  out  in 
the  most  imposing  style,  and  arrayed  in  all  their 
finery.  The  effect  of  the  whole  was  wild  and  fan- 
Uistic,  yet  singularly  striking.  In  the  front  rank 
were  the  chiefs  and  principal  wari-iors,  glaringly 
painted  and  decorated ;  behind  them  were  arranged 
the  rest  of  the  people,  men,  women,  and  children. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  advanced 
slowly,  exchanging  salutes  of  fire-arms.  When 
arrived  within  a  respectful  distance,  they  dis- 
mounted. The  chiefs  then  came  forward  succes- 
sively, according  to  their  respective  characters  and 
consecjuence,  to  offer  the  hand  of  good-fellowship  ; 
each  filing  off  when  he  had  shaken  hands,  to  make 
way  for  his  successor.  Those  in  the  next  rank 
followed  in  the  same  order,  and  so  on,  until  all 
had  given  the  pledge  of  friendship.  During  all 
tlMs  time,  the  chief,  according  to  custom,  took  his 
stand  beside  the  guests.  If  any  of  his  people 
advanced  whom  he  judged  unworthy  of  the  friend- 


ffliftl 


M' 


i.: 


336 


B  ONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES, 


ship  or  confidence  of  the  white  men,  he  motioned 
them  off  by  a  wave  of  the  liand,  and  they  would 
submissively  walk  away.  When  Captain  Bonne- 
ville turned  upon  him  an  inquiring  look,  he  would 
observe,  "  he  was  a  bad  man,"  or  something  quite 
as  concise,  and  there  was  an  end  of  the  matter. 

Mats,  poles,  and  other  materials  were  now 
brought,  and  a  comfortable  lodge  was  soon  erected 
for  the  strangers,  where  they  were  kept  constantly 
supplied  with  wood  and  water,  and  other  neces- 
saries ;  and  all  their  effects  were  placed  in  safe 
keeping.  Their  horses,  too,  were  unsaddled,  and 
turned  loose  to  graze,  and  a  guard  set  to  keep 
watch  upon  them. 

All  this  being  adjusted,  they  were  conducted  to 
the  main  building  or  council  house  of  the  village, 
where  an  ample  repast,  or  rather  banquet,  was 
spread,  which  seemed  to  realize  all  the  gastro- 
nomical  dreams  that  had  tantalized  them  during 
their  long  starvation ;  for  here  they  beheld  not 
merely  fish  and  roots  m  abundance,  but  the  flesh 
of  deer  and  elk,  and  the  choicest  pieces  of  buffalo 
meat.  It  is  needless  to  say  how  vigorously  they 
acquitted  themselves  on  this  occasion,  and  how 
unnecessary  it  was  for  their  hosts  to  practice  the 
usual    cramming  principle  of   Indian  hospitality. 

When  the  repast  was  over,  a  long  talk  ensued. 
The  chief  showed  the  same  curiosity  evinced  by 
his  tribe  generally,  to  obtain  information  concern- 
ing the  United  States,  of  which  they  knew  little 
but  what  they  derived  through  their  cousins,  the 
Upper  Nez  Perces ;  as  their  traffic  is  almost  ex- 
clusively with  the  British  traders  of  the  Hudson's 


otioned 
r  would 
Bonne- 
3  would 
ig  quite 

matter, 
re  now 
L  erected 
instantly 
ir  neces- 
[  in  sale 
aied,  and 

to  keep 

ducted  to 
le  village, 
:][uet,  was 
te  gastro- 
11  during 
ilield  not 
the  flesh 
of  buifalo 
usly  they 
and  how 
actice  the 
ospitality. 
k  ensued, 
vinced  by 
conceru- 
ew  little 
usins,  the 
ilmost  ex- 
Hudsun's 


WALKING  NEWSPAPERS. 


337 


Bay  Company.  Captain  Bonneville  did  his  best 
to  set  forth  the  merits  of  his  nation,  and  the  im- 
portn.nce  of  their  friendship  to  the  red  men,  in 
whi^'li  he  was  ably  seconded  by  his  worthy  friend, 
the  old  chief  with  the  hard  name,  who  did  all  that 
he  could  to  glorify  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East. 

The  chief,  and  all  present,  listened  with  pro- 
found attention,  and  evidently  with  great  interest ; 
nor  were  the  important  facts  thus  set  forth,  con- 
fined to  the  audience  in  the  lodge ;  for  sentence 
after  sentence  was  loudly  repeated  by  a  crier  for 
the  benefit  of  the  whole  village. 

This  custom  of  promulgating  everything  by 
criers,  is  not  confined  to  the  Nez  Perccs,  but  pre- 
vails among  many  other  tribes.  It  has  its  ad- 
vantage where  there  are  no  gazettes  to  publish 
the  news  of  the  day,  or  to  report  the  proceedings 
of  important  meetings.  And  in  fact,  reports  of 
this  kind,  viva  voce,  made  in  the  hearing  of  all 
parties,  and  liable  to  be  contradicted  or  corrected 
on  the  spot,  are  more  likely  to  convey  accurate 
information  to  the  public  muid,  than  those  cir- 
culated through  the  press.  The  ollice  of  crier  is 
generally  filled  by  some  old  man,  who  is  good  for 
little  else.  A  village  has  generally  several  of  these 
walking  newspapers,  as  they  are  termed  by  tho 
whites,  who  go  about  proclaiming  the  news  ot 
the  day,  giving  notice  of  public  councils,  expedi- 
tions, dances,  feasts,  and  other  ceremonials,  and 
advertising  anything  lost.  While  Captain  Bonne- 
ville remauied  among  the  Nez  Perces,  if  a  glove, 

handkerchief,  or  anything  of  similar  value,  was 

22 


1 

II 


338 


B ONNE  VILLUS  A D  VENTURES. 


lost  or  mislaid,  it  was  carried  by  the  finder  to  th^ 
lodge  of  tlie  chief,  and  prochtmation  was  made  hy 
one  of  tlieir  criers,  for  the  owner  to  come  and 
claim  liis  property. 

How  diiricult  it  is  to  get  at  the  true  character 
of  these  wandering  tribes  of  the  wilderness  !  In 
a  recent  work,  we  liave  had  to  speak  of  this  tribe 
of  Indians  from  the  experience  of  other  traders 
who  had  casnally  been  among  them,  and  who  re- 
presented them  as  selfish,  inhospituble,  exorbitaiit 
in  tlieir  dealinijs  and  mnch  addicted  to  thievinix:^ 
Captain  Bonneville,  on  the  contrary,  who  resided 
much  among  them,  and  had  repeated  opportunities 
of  ascertaining  their  real  chanicter,  invariably 
speaks  of  them  as  kind  and  hospitable,  scrupulously 
honest,  and  remarkable,  above  all  other  Indians 
that  he  had  met  with,  for  a  strong  feeling  of  reli- 
gion. In  fact,  so  enthusiastic  is  he  in  their  praise, 
that  he  pronounces  them,  all  ignorant  and  bar- 
barous as  they  arc  by  their  condition,  one  of  the 
purest-hearted  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 

Some  cures  wliich  Captain  Bonneville  had  ef- 
fected in  simple  cases,  among  the  Upper  Nez 
Perces,  had  reached  the  ears  of  their  cousins 
here,  and  gained  for  him  the  reputation  of  a 
great  medicine  man.  He  had  not  been  long  in 
the  village,  therefore,  before  liis  lodge  began  to 
be  the  resort  of  the  sick  and  the  infirm.  The  cap- 
tiiin  felt  the  value  of  the  reputation  thus  acci- 
dentally and  cheaply  acquired,  and  e  ideavored 
to  sustain  it.     As  he  had  arrived   at   that  age 

1  Vide  Astoria,  chap  lii. 


THE  CAPTAIN  A    }f  ED  I  CINE  MAN.      339 


'f 


;r  to  tlio 
made  hy 
^me  aiui 

character 

ess  1  in 
this  tribe 
r  traders 
I  who  re- 
ixorbitant 

hieving:^ 
lo  resided 
)ortunitie8 
invariably 
rupulously 
3r  Indians 
ucT  of  reli- 
icir  praise, 
and  bar- 
one  of  the 
,e  earth. 
Ic  had  ef- 
pper  Nez 
ir   cousins 
tion    of  a 
m  long  in 
began  to 
The  cap- 
thus  acci- 
ideavored 
that  age 


when  every  man  is,  experimentally,  somothing 
of  a  physician,  he  was  enabled  to  turn  to  ad- 
vanta<Te  the  little  knowled«;e  in  the  healinix  art 
which  he  had  cjisually  picke<l  up ;  and  wad 
sulRciently  successful  in  two  or  three  cases,  to 
convince  the  simple  Indians  that  report  had  not 
exaggerated  his  medical  talents.  The  only  pa- 
tient that  effectually  baflled  his  skill,  or  rather  dis- 
couraged any  attempt  at  relief,  wjts  an  anticpiated 
squaw  with  a  church-yard  cough,  and  one  leg  in 
the  grave  ;  it  being  shrunk  and  rendered  useless 
by  a  rheumatic  alfection.  This  was  a  case  be- 
yond his  mark ;  however,  he  comfort(id  the  okl 
woman  with  a  promise  that  he  would  endeavor 
to  procure  something  to  relieve  her,  at  the  fort 
on  the  Wallah- Wallah,  and  would  bring  it  on 
his  return  ;  with  which  assurance  her  husband 
was  so  well  satisfied,  that  he  presented  the  caj)- 
tain  with  a  colt,  to  be  killed  as  provisions  for  the 
journey :  a  medical  fee  wliich  was  thankfully  ac- 
cepted. 

While  among  these  Indians,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville unexpectedly  found  an  owner  for  the  horse 
which  he  had  purchased  from  a  Root  Digger  at 
the  Big  Wyer.  The  Indian  satisfactorily  proved 
that  the  horse  had  been  stolen  from  him  some  time 
previous,  by  some  unknown  thief.  "  However," 
said  the  considerate  savage,  "  you  got  him  in  fair 
trade  —  you  are  more  in  want  of  horses  than  I 
am :  keep  him ;  he  is  yours  —  he  is  a  good  horse ; 
use  him  well." 

Thus,  in  the  continual  experience  of  acts  of 
kindness  and  generosity,  which  his  destitute  con- 


«  ! 


■*f'!li    * 


840 


B ONNE VI LL E'S  AD VEN TURKS. 


dition  did  not  allow  hira  to  reciprocate,  Captain 
Bonneville  passed  some  short  time  among  these 
good  peo[)le,  more  and  more  impressed  with  the 
general  exwllence  of  their  character. 


*! 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


:'       f.  • 


Scenery  of  the  Wny -lee-way.  —  A  substitute  for  tobacco.  — 
Sublime  scenery  of  Snake  Kiver.  —  The  fjarruious  ohl  cliief 
and  his  cousin.  —  A  Nez  I'ercd  meeting.  —  A  stok'n  skin. 
—  Tiie  sca|)e^'(»at  do^. —  Mysterious  conferences.  —  The  lit- 
tle chief.  —  His  hospitahty.  —  The  captain's  account  of  the 
United  States.  —  His  heahug  skill. 

N  resuming  his  journey,  Captain  Bonne- 
ville was  conducted  by  the  same  N^iz 
Pored  guide,  whose  knowledge  of  the 
country  was  important  in  choosing  the  routes 
and  resting  places.  He  also  continued  to  be 
accompanied  by  the  worthy  old  chief  with  the 
hard  name,  who  seemed  bent  ui)on  doing  the 
honors  of  the  country,  and  introducing  him  to 
every  branch  of  his  tribe,  llie  "Way-lee-way, 
down  the  banks  of  which  Captain  Bonneville 
and  his  companions  were  now  travelling,  is  a 
considerable  stream  winding  through  a  succession 
of  bold  and  beautiful  scenes.  Sometimes  the 
landscape  towered  into  bold  and  mountainous 
heights  that  partook  of  sublimity ;  at  other 
times,  it  stretched  along  the  water-side  in  fresh 
smiling  meadows,  and  graceful  undulating  val- 
leys. 

Frequently    in    their   route  they  encountered 
small  parties  of  the  Nez  Percds,  with  whom  they 


Hill' 


842 


D ONNE VlLLITli  AD  VEN TURES. 


111 


m 


invariably  stopped  to  shake  hands ;  and  who, 
generally,  evinced  great  curiosity  concerning 
them  and  their  adventures  ;  a  curiosity  which 
never  failed  to  be  thoroughly  satisfied  by  the 
replies  of  the  worthy  Yo-raus-ro-y-e-cut,  who 
kindly  took  upon  himself  to  be  spokesman  of 
the  party. 

The  incessant  smoking  of  pipes  incident  to  the 
long  talks  of  this  excellent,  but  somewhat  garru- 
ous  old  chief,  at  length  exhausted  all  his  stock 
of  tobacco,  so  that  he  had  no  longer  a  whiff 
with  which  to  regale  his  white  companions.  In 
this  emergency,  he  cut  up  the  stem  of  his  pipe 
into  fine  shavings,  which  he  mixed  with  certain 
herbs,  and  thus  maimfactured  a  temporary  suc- 
cedaneum,  to  enable  him  to  accompany  his  long 
colloquies  and  harangues  with  the  customary 
fragrant  cloud. 

If  the  scenery  of  the  Way-lee- way  had  charmed 
the  travellers  with  its  mingled  amenity  and  grand- 
eur, that  which  broke  upon  them  on  once  more 
reaching  Snake  River,  filled  them  with  admira- 
tion and  astonishment.  At  times,  the  river  was 
overhung  by  dark  and  stupendous  rocks,  rising 
like  gigantic  walls  and  battlements  ;  these  would 
be  rent  by  v^ide  and  yawning  chasms,  that 
seemed  to  speak  of  past  convulsions  of  nature. 
Sometimes  the  liver  was  of  a  glassy  smoothness 
and  placidity  ;  at  other  times  it  roared  along  in 
impetuous  rapids  and  foaming  cascades.  Here, 
the  rocks  were  piled  in  the  most  fantastic  crags 
and  precipices  ;  and  in  another  place,  they  were 
succeeded   by    delightful    valleys    carpeted    with 


r 


SCENERY  OF  SNAKE  RIVER. 


343 


green-sward.  Tlic  whole  of  this  wil<l  and  varied 
scenery  was  dominated  by  immense  mountains 
reri'ini^  their  distmt  peaks  into  the  (blonds.  "The 
grandeur  and  ori<j;inality  of  tlie  views,  presented 
on  e  /ery  side,"  says  Captain  Bonneville,  "  hegfj^ar 
both  the  pencil  and  the  per.  Nothing  we  had  ever 
gazed  upon  in  any  other  region  could  for  a  momc^nt 
compare  in  wild  majesty  and  impressive  sternness, 
with  the  series  of  scenes  which  here  at  every  turn 
astonished  our  senses,  and  filled  us  with  awe  and 
delight." 

Indeed,  from  all  that  we  can  gather  from  the 
journal  before  us,  and  the  accounts  of  other 
travellers,  who  passed  through  these  regions  in 
the  memoral)le  enterprise  of  Astoria,  we  are 
inclined  to  think  that  Snake  River  must  be  one 
of  the  most  renuirkable  for  varied  and  striking 
scenery  of  all  the  rivers  of  this  continent.  From 
its  head  waters  in  the  Rocky  INlountains,  to  its 
junction  with  the  Columbia,  its  windings  are 
upwai-ds  of  six  hundred  miles  through  every 
variety  of  landscape.  Rising  in  a  volciinic  region, 
amidst  cxtinijuished  craters,  and  mountains  awful 
with  the  traces  of  ancient  fires,  it  makes  its  way 
through  great  plains  of  lava  and  sandy  deserts, 
penetrates  vast  sierras  or  mountainous  chains, 
broken  into  romantic  and  often  frightful  prec- 
ipices, and  crowned  with  eternal  snows  ;  and  at 
other  times,  careers  through  green  and  smiling 
meadows,  and  wide  landscapes  of  Italian  grace 
jind  beauty.  Wildness  and  sublimity,  however, 
appear  to  be  its  prevailing  characteristics. 

Captain    Bonneville  and   his  companions  had 


mil  m 


I  ! 


If  I 


IliN^' 


BU 


B  ONNE  VILLE>S  AD  YEN  TURKS. 


pursued  their  journey  a  considerable  distance 
down  the  course  of  Snake  River,  when  the  old 
chief  halted  on  the  bank,  and  dismounting, 
recommended  that  they  should  turn  their  horses 
loose  to  graze,  while  he  summoned  a  cousin  of  Ida 
from  a  group  of  lodges  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  stream.  His  summons  was  quickly  answered. 
An  Indian,  of  an  active,  elastic  form,  leaped  into 
a  light  canoe  of  cotton-wood,  and  vigorously 
plying  the  paddle,  soon  shot  across  the  river. 
Bounding  on  shore,  he  advanced  with  a  buoyant 
air  and  frank  demeanor,  and  gave  his  right  hand 
to  each  of  the  party  in  turn.  The  old  chie^ 
whose  hard  name  we  forbear  to  repeat,  now 
presented  Captain  Bonneville,  in  form,  to  his 
cousin,  whose  nau  ;,  we  regret  to  say,  was  r^ 
less  hard,  being  nothing  lese  than  Ilay-she-in- 
cow-cow.  The  latter  evinced  the  usual  curiosity 
to  know  all  about  the  strangers,  whence  they 
came,  wliither  they  were  going,  the  object  of  their 
journey,  and  the  adventures  they  had  experience^l. 
All  these,  of  course,  were  amply  and  eloquently 
set  forth  by  the  communicative  old  chief.  To  all 
his  grandiloquent  account  of  the  bald-headed  chief 
and  his  countrymen,  the  Big  Hearts  of  the  East, 
his  cousin  listened  with  great  attention,  and 
replied  in  the  customary  style  of  Indian  welcome. 
He  then  desired  the  party  to  await  his  return, 
and,  springing  into  his  canoe,  darted  across  the 
river.  In  a  little  while  he  returned,  bringing 
a  most  welcome  supply  of  tobacco,  and  a  small 
Btock  of  provisions  for  the  road,  declaring  liis 
oiteutioii  of  accompanying  the  party.     Having  no 


THE  STOLEN  SKIN. 


345 


'm 


horse,  he  mounted  behind  one  of  the  men,  ob 
serving  that  he   should  procure  a  steed  for  him- 
self on  the  following  day. 

They  all  now  jogged  on  very  sociably  and 
cheerily  together.  Not  many  miles  beyond,  they 
met  others  of  the  tribe,  among  whom  was  one, 
whom  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades  had 
known  during  their  residence  among  the  Upper 
Nez  Perces,  and  who  welcomed  them  with  open 
arms.  In  this  neiirhlx>rhood  was  the  home  of 
their  guide,  who  took  leave  of  them  with  a 
profusion  of  good  wishes  for  their  safety  and 
happiness.  That  night  they  put  up  in  the  hut 
of  a  Nez  Perec,  where  they  were  visited  by 
several  warriors  from  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
friends  of  the  old  cliief  and  his  cousin,  who  came 
to  have  a  talk  and  a  smoke  with  the  white  men. 
The  heart  of  the  <jood  old  chief  was  o\ . -'flowing 
with  good-will  at  thus  being  surrounded  by  his 
new  and  old  friends,  and  he  talked  with  more 
spirit  and  vivacity  than  ever.  The  evening 
passed  away  in  perfect  harmony  and  good-humor, 
and  it  was  not  until  a  late  hour  that  the  visitors 
took  their  leave  and  recrossed  the  river. 

After  this  constant  picture  of  worth  and  virtue 
on  the  part  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  we  grieve  to 
have  to  record  a  circumstance  calculated  to  throw 
a  temporary  shade  uix)n  the  name.  In  the  course 
of  the  social  and  harmonious  evening  just  men- 
tioned, one  of  the  captain's  men,  who  happened 
to  be  something  of  a  virtuoso  in  his  way,  and 
fond  of  collecting  curiosities,  produced  a  smalJ 
skm,  a  great  raiity   In   the  eyes  of  men   con 


41  n  ! 


846 


BONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


m 


m 


|i|i 


versant  In  peltries.  It  attracted  much  attention 
among  the  visitors  from  beyond  the  river,  who 
})assed  it  from  one  to  the  other,  examined  it  with 
looks  of  lively  admiration,  and  pronounced  it  a 
great  medicine. 

In  the  morning,  when  the  captain  and  his 
party  were  about  to  set  off,  the  precious  skin 
was  missing.  Search  was  made  for  it  in  the  hut, 
but  it  was  nowhere  to  be  found ;  and  it  was 
strongly  suspected  that  it  had  been  purloined  by 
some  of  the  connoisseurs  from  the  other  side  of 
the  river. 

Tlie  old  chief  and  his  cousin  were  indignant  at 
the  supposed  delinquency  of  their  friends  across 
the  water,  and  called  out  for  them  to  come  over 
and  answer  for  their  shameful  conduct.  The 
others  answered  to  the  call  witli  all  the  prompti- 
tude of  perfect  innocence,  and  spurned  at  the  idea 
of  their  being  capable  of  such  outrage  upon  any 
of  the  I'^ijx-heartcd  nation.  All  were  at  a  loss  on 
whom  to  fix  the  crime  of  abstractiuij  the  in- 
valuable  skin,  when  by  chance  the  eyes  of  the 
worthies  from  beyond  the  water  fell  upon  an 
unhai)py  cur,  belonging  to  the  owner  of  the  hut. 
lie  was  a  ijallows-lookin^j  doij^,  but  not  more  so 
than  most  Indian  dogs,  who,  take  them  in  the 
mass,  are  little  better  than  a  generation  of  vipers. 
]5e  that  as  it  may,  he  was  irtantly  accused  of 
having  devoured  the  skin  in  question.  A  dog 
accused  is  getierally  a  dog  condenmed ;  and  a  dog 
condemned  is  generally  a  dog  executed.  So  was 
•t  in  the  present  instance.  The  unfortunate  cur 
was    arraigned ;    his  thievish  looks  substantiated 


THE  SCAPEGOAT  DOG. 


347 


his  guilt,  cand  he  was  condemned  by  his  judges 
from  across  the  river  to  be  hanged.  In  vain  the 
Indians  of  the  hut,  with  whom  he  was  a  great 
favorite,  interceded  in  liis  behalf.  In  vain 
Captain  Bonneville  and  his  comrades  petitioned 
that  his  life  might  be  spared.  His  judges  were 
inexorable.  He  was  doubly  guilty :  first,  in 
havinii:  robbed  their  ijood  fi'iends,  the  Bii;  Hearts 
of  the  East ;  second!}",  in  having  brought  a  doubt 
on  the  honor  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe.  He  was, 
accordingly,  swung  aloft,  and  pelted  with  stones 
to  make  his  death  more  certain.  The  sentence 
of  the  judges  being  thoroughly  executed,  a  post 
mortem  examination  of  the  body  of  the  dog  was 
held,  to  establish  liis  delinquency  beyond  all 
doubt,  and  to  leave  the  Nez  Perces  without  a 
shadow  of  suspicion.  Great  interest,  of  course, 
was  manifested  by  all  present,  during  this  oper- 
ation. The  body  of  the  dog  was  opened,  the 
intestines  rigorously  scrutinized,  but,  to  the 
horror  of  all  concerned,  not  a  particle  of  the  skin 
was  to  be  found  —  the  dog  had  been  unjustly 
executed ! 

A  great  clamor  now  ensued,  but  the  most 
clamorous  was  the  party  from  across  the  river, 
whose  jealousy  of  their  good  name  now  prompted 
them  to  the  most  vociferous  vindications  of  their 
innocence.  It  was  with  the  utmost  difliculty  that 
the  captain  and  his  comrades  could  calm  their 
ively  sensibilities,  by  accounting  for  the  dis- 
appearance of  the  skin  in  a  dozen  different  ways, 
until  all  idea  of  its  having  been  stolen  waa 
entirely  out  of  the  question. 


Ml 


IS 


I      ! 
(     i 


S48 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


fM> 


The  ueeting  now  broke  up.  The  warriors 
returned  across  the  river,  the  captain  and  his 
comrades  proceeded  on  their  journey;  but  the 
spirits  of  the  communicative  ohl  chief,  Yo-mus- 
ro-y-e-cut,  were  for  a  time  completely  dampened, 
and  he  evinced  great  mortification  at  what  had 
just  occurred.  He  rode  on  in  silence,  except, 
that  now  and  then  he  would  give  way  to  a  burst 
of  indignation,  and  exclaim,  with  a  shake  of  the 
head  and  a  toss  of  the  hand  toward  the  opposite 
shore  — "  bad  men,  veiy  bad  men  across  the 
river ; "  to  each  of  which  brief  exclamations,  his 
worthy  cousin.  Hay -she -in -cow -cow,  would 
respond  by  a  deep  guttural  sound  of  acquies- 
cence, equivalent  to  an  amen. 

After  some  time,  the  countenance  of  the  old 
cliief  again  cleared  up,  and  lie  fell  into  repeated 
conferences,  in  an  under  tone,  with  his  cousin, 
which  ended  in  the  departure  of  the  latter,  who, 
applying  the  lash  to  his  horse,  dashed  forward 
and  was  soon  out  of  sight.  In  fact,  they  were 
,  dwwing  near  to  the  village  of  another  chief, 
"Tikewise  distinguished  by  an  appellation  of  some 
"longitude,  Opush-y-e-cut ;  but  commonly  known 
as  the  great  chief.  The  cousin  had  been  sent 
ahead  to  give  notice  of  their  approach  ;  a  herald 
appeared  as  before,  bearing  a  powder-horn,  to 
enable  them  to  respond  to  the  intended  salute. 
A  scene  ensued,  on  their  approach  to  the  village, 
similar  to  that  which  had  occurred  at  the  village 
of  the  little  chief.  Tlie  whole  population  ap- 
peared in  the  field,  drawn  up  in  lines,  arrayed 
with  the  customary  regard  to  rank  and  dignity. 


Hi 


0-PUSn-Y-E'CUT. 


849 


Then  came  on  the  firing  of  salutes,  and  the 
shaking  of  hands,  in  which  last  ceremonial  every 
individual,  man,  woman,  and  child,  participated; 
for  tlic  Indians  have  an  idea  that  it  is  as  indis- 
pensable an  overture  of  friendship  among  the 
whites  as  smoking  of  the  pipe  is  among  the  red 
men.  The  travellers  were  next  ushered  to  the 
banquet,  where  all  the  choicest  viands  that  the 
village  could  furnish,  were  served  up  in  rich  pro- 
fusion. They  were  afterwards  entertained  by 
feats  of  agility  and  horse-races  r,  indeed,  their 
visit  to  the  village  seemed  the  ignal  for  com- 
plete festivity.  In  the  meantime,  a  skin  lodge 
had  been  spread  for  their  accommodation,  their 
horses  and  baggage  were  taken  care  of,  and  wood 
and  water  supplied  in  abundance.  At  night, 
therefore,  they  retired  to  their  quarters,  to  enjoy, 
as  they  supposed,  the  repose  of  which  they  stood 
in  need.  No  such  thing,  however,  was  in  store 
for  them.  A  crowd  of  visitors  awaited  tlieir 
appearance,  all  eager  for  a  smoke  and  a  talk. 
The  pipe  was  inmiediately  lighted,  and  constantly 
replenished  and  kept  alive  until  the  night  was 
far  advanced.  As  usual,  the  utmost  eagerness 
was  evinced  by  the  guests  to  learn  everything 
within  the  scope  of  their  comprehension  respect- 
ing the  Americans,  for  whom  they  professed  the 
most  fraternal  regard.  The  captain,  in  his  re- 
plies, made  use  of  familiar  illustrations,  calculated 
to  strike  their  minds,  and  impress  them  with 
«uch  an  idea  of  the  might  of  his  nation,  as  would 
induce  them  to  treat  with  kindness  and  respect 
all  stragglers  that  might  fall  in  their  path.     To 


w> 


:  'i: 
I 


\i 


i^sflllllli; 


350 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


their  inquiries  as  to  the  numbers  of  the  people 
of  the  United  Stutes,  he  assured  them  tliat  they 
were  as  countless  as  the  blades  of  grass  in  the 
prairies,  and  that,  great  as  Snake  River  was,  if 
they  were  all  encamped  upon  its  banks,  they 
would  drink  it  dry  in  a  single  day.  To  these 
and  similar  statistics,  they  listened  with  profound 
attention,  and  apparently,  implicit  belief.  It  was, 
indeed,  a  striking  scene :  the  captain,  with  his 
hunter's  dress  and  bald  head  in  the  midst,  hold- 
ing forth,  and  his  wild  auditors  seated  around 
like  so  many  statues,  the  fire  lighting  up  their 
painted  faces  and  muscular  figures,  all  fixed  and 
motionless,  excepting  when  the  pipe  was  passed, 
a  question  propounded,  or  a  startling  fa(;t  in 
statistics  received  with  a  movement  of  surprise 
and  a  half  suppressed  ejaculation  of  wonder  and 
delight. 

The  fame  of  the  captain  as  a  healer  of  dis- 
eases, had  accompanied  him  to  this  village,  and 
the  great  chief,  0-push-y-e-cut,  now  entreated  him 
to  exert  his  skill  on  his  daughter,  who  had  been 
lor  three  days  racked  with  pains,  for  which  the 
l*ierced-nose  doctors  could  devise  no  alleviation. 
The  captain  found  her  extended  on  a  pallet  of 
mats  in  excruciating  pain.  Her  father  mani- 
fested the  strongest  paternal  affection  for  her,  and 
assured  the  captain  that  if  ho  would  but  cure 
her,  he  would  place  the  Americans  near  his 
heart.  The  worthy  captain  needed  no  such  in- 
ducement. His  kind  heart  was  already  touched 
by  the  sufferings  of  the  poor  girl,  and  his  sym[)a- 
thiea  quickened  by  her  appearance ;  for  she  waa 


THE  cm  EPS  DAUGHTER. 


351 


i" 


but  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  uncommonly 
beautiful  in  form  and  feature.  The  only  dilli- 
culty  with  the  captain  was,  that  he  knew  nothing 
of  her  malady,  and  that  his  medical  science  was 
of  the  most  hfiphazard  kind.  After  considering 
and  cogitating  for  some  time,  as  a  man  is  apt  to 
do  when  in  a  maze  of  vaijue  ideas,  he  made  a 
desperate  dash  at  a  remedy.  By  iiis  directions, 
the  girl  was  placed  in  a  sort  of  rude  vapor-bath, 
much  used  by  the  Nez  Perces,  where  she  was 
kept  until  near  fainting.  He  then  gave  her  a 
dose  of  gunpowder  dissolved  in  water,  and  ordered 
her  to  be  wrapped  in  buffalo  robes  and  put  to 
sleep  under  a  load  of  furs  and  blaid^ets.  The 
remedy  succeeded:  the  next  morning  she  was 
{)vG  fnjm  pain,  though  extremely  languid  ;  where- 
upon, the  captain  prescribed  for  her  a  bowl  of 
colt's  head  broth,  and  that  she  should  be  kept 
for  a  time  on  simple  diet. 

The  great  chief  was  unbounded  in  his  expres- 
sions of  gratitude  for  the  recovery  of  his  daugh- 
ter. He  wouhl  fain  have  detained  the  captain  a 
lonn;  time  iis  his  "uest,  but  the  time  for  de- 
parture  had  arrived.  When  the  captain's  horse 
was  brougiit  for  him  to  mount,  the  chief  declared 
that  the  steed  was  not  worthy  of  him,  and  sent 
for  one  of  his  best  horses,  which  he  presented  in 
its  stead  ;  declaring  that  it  made  h.i.s  heart  glad 
to  see  his  friend  so  well  mounted.  He  then  ap- 
pointed a  young  Nez  Perce  to  accompany  his 
guests  to  the  next  village,  and  "•  to  cjirry  his 
talk "  concerning  them ;  and  the  two  parties 
separated  with  mutual  expressions  of  kindness 
and  feelings  of  good-will. 


'V\\ 


852 


n  ONNE  VILLI? S  AD  VENTURES, 


TIic  vapor-bfitli  of  whicli  we  liave  made  men- 
tion is  ill  frequent  use  among  tiie  Nez  Perc^ 
tribe,  chiefly  for  clearJiness.  Tlieir  sweating- 
houses,  as  tliey  call  them,  are  small  and  close 
lodges,  and  the  vapor  is  produced  by  water 
poured  slowly  upon  red-hot  stones. 

On  passing  the  limits  of  0-push-y-e-cut's  do- 
mains, the  travellers  left  the  elevated  table-lands, 
and  all  the  *'  1  and  romantic  scenery  which  has 
just  been  '  erlwl.  They  now  traversed  a 
gently  unduhmng  c  ^  'itry,  of  such  fertility  that 
it  excited  the  rapturous  admiration  of  two  of  the 
captain's  followers,  a  Kentuckian  and  a  native  of 
Ohio.  They  declared  that  it  surpassed  any  land 
that  they  had  ever  seen,  and  often  exclaimed,  what 
a  delight  it  would  be  just  to  nui  a  plough  through 
such  a  rich  and  teeming  soil,  and  see  it  open  its 
bountiful  promise  before  the  share. 

Another  halt  and  sojourn  of  a  night  was  made 
at  the  vilhige  of  a  chief  named  He-mim-el-pilp, 
where  similar  ceremom'es  were  observed  and 
hospitality  experienced,  as  at  the  preceding  vil- 
lages. They  now  pursued  a  west-southwest 
course  throu":h  a  beautiful  and  fertile  region, 
better  wooded  than  most  of  the  tracts  through 
which  they  had  passed.  In  their  progress,  they 
met  with  several  bands  of  Nez  Perces,  by  whom 
they  were  invariably  treated  with  the  utmost 
kindness.  Within  seven  days  after  leaving  the 
domain  of  He-mim-el-pilp,  they  struck  the  Co- 
lumbia River  at  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  where 
they  arrived  on  the  4th  of  March,  1834. 


CHAPTER   XXXIV. 

Fort  Wallah- Wallah  —  its  commander. —  Indiana  in  its 
neighborhood. —  T^xerfions  of  Mr.  Panibrunc  for  their  im- 
provement. —  Keligion.  —  Code  of  laws.  —  Kange  of  the 
Lowjr  Nez  Pertosi.  —  Camash,  and  other  roots.  —  Nez 
VeTc6  horses. —  Preparations  for  departure.  —  Refusal  of 
flupplies.  —  Departure.  —  A  laggard  and  glutton. 


V] 


-southwest 


ORT  Wftllah-Wallah  is  a  tradinir  posr 
of  the  liudf*oii's  Bay  Company,  situate^ 
just  alx)ve  tlie  moutli  of  the  rive*'  of 
tlie  Hame  name,  and  on  tlie  left  bank  of  the  Oo- 
himhia.  It  is  built  of  drift-wood,  and  calculated 
merely  for  defense  against  any  attack  of  the  na- 
tives. At  the  time  of  Captain  Bonneville's  ar- 
rival, the  whole  garrison  mustered  but  six  or 
eight  men ;  and  the  post  was  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Mr.  Pambrune,  an  agent  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

The  great  post  and  fort  of  the  company,  form- 
ing the  emporium  of  its  trade  on  the  Pacific,  is 
Fort  Vancouver  ;  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Columbia,  about  sixty  miles  from  the  sea, 
and  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wallamut.  To 
tiiis  point,  the  company  removed  its  establishtnent 
from  Astoria,  in  1821,  after  its  coalition  with  the 
Northwest  Company. 

Captain  Bonneville  and   his  comrades  expcri- 

m 


n^ 


354 


BONNEVILLE'S   AD  Vh  NTURE3, 


enced  a  polite  reception  from  Mr.  Pambruiic,  the 
Buperinteiideiit  :  for,  however  hostile  the  mem- 
bers of  the  British  Company  may  be  to  the  en- 
terprises of  American  traders,  tliey  have  always 
manifested  j^jreat  courtesy  and  hospitality  to  the 
traders  themselves. 

Fort  Wallah-Wallah  is  surrounded  by  the 
tribe  of  the  same  nrme,  as  well  as  by  the  Skyn- 
ses,  and  the  Nez  Perces  ;  who  bring  to  it  the 
furs  and  peltries  collected  in  their  hunting  expe- 
ditions. The  Wallah-Wallahs  are  a  degenerate, 
worn-out  tribe.  The  Nez  Perces  are  the  most 
numerous  and  tractable  of  the  three  tribes  just 
mentioned.  Mr.  Pambrune  informed  Captain 
Boimeville,  that  he  had  been  at  some  pains  to  in- 
troduce the  Cinistian  religion,  in  the  Roman 
Catholic  form,  among  them,  where  it  had  evi- 
dently taken  root ;  but  had  become  altered  and 
modified,  to  suit  their  peculiar  habits  of  thought, 
and  motives  of  action  ;  retjiining,  however,  the 
principal  points  of  faith,  and  its  entire  precepts 
of  morality.  The  same  gentleman  had  given 
them  a  code  of  laws,  to  which  they  conformed 
with  scrupulous  fidelity.  Polygamy,  which  once 
prevailed  among  them  to  a  great  extent,  w{is  now 
rarely  indulged.  All  the  crimes  denounced  by 
the  Christian  faith,  met  with  severe  punishment 
among  them.  Even  theft,  so  venial  a  crime 
among  the  Indians,  had  recently  been  punished 
with  hanging,  by  sentence  of  a  ciiief. 

There  certainly  appears  to  be  a  peculiar  sus- 
septibility  of  uu)ral  and  religious  improvement 
among  this  tribe,  and  they  would  seem  to  be  one 


•I 


THE  LOWER    NEZ  PEJiCES, 


355 


11   to   1)6   OUO 


af  the  very,  very  few,  that  liave  benefited  in 
rnoruls  and  inimners,  by  an  intercourse  willi  white 
men.  The  parties  wliich  visilcd  them  about 
twenty  years  previously,  in  tlie  expedition  fitted 
out  by  JNIr.  Astor,  eoniphiined  of  their  selHsluiess, 
llieir  extorti(jn,  and  their  tliievish  propensities. 
The  vvvy  reverse  of  those  quaUties  prevailed 
among  them  during  the  prolonged  sojourns  of 
Captain  Bonneville. 

The  Lower  Nez  Perces  range  upon  the  Way- 
lee-way,  Immahah,  Yenghies,  and  other  of  the 
streams  west  of  the  mountains.  They  hunt  the 
beaver,  elk,  deer,  white  bear,  and  momitain 
sheep.  Beside  the  flesh  of  these  animals,  they 
use  a  number  of  roots  for  food  ;  some  of  whieh 
would  be  well  worth  transplanting  and  eultiva- 
ting  in  the  Atlantic  States.  Among  these  is  the 
kamash,  a  sweet  root,  about  the  form  and  size  of 
an  onion,  and  sjud  to  be  really  delieiou§.  The 
cowish,  also,  or  biscuit  root,  about  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  which  they  reduce  to  a  very  palatable 
Hour,  together  with  the  jackap,  aisish,  quako, 
and  others  ;  which  they  cook  by  steaming  them 
in  the  ground. 

In  August  and  September,  these  Indians  keep 
along  the  rivers,  where  they  catch  and  dry  great 
quantities  of  salmon  ;  which,  while  they  last,  are 
their  principal  food.  In  the  winter,  they  congre- 
gate in  villages  formed  of  comfortable  huts,  or 
lodges,  covered  with  mats.  They  are  generally 
clad  in  deer-skins,  or  woolens,  and  extremely 
well  armed.  Above  all,  they  aie  celebrated  for 
owning  great    numbers    of   horses ;   which    they 


t}i  i 


350 


n  ON  NIC  villi:  s  ad  ventures. 


m 


•  I 


murk,  and  then  siifTer  to  ranjjo  in  droves  in  lh(*ip 
most  fiMtile  plains.  These  horses  are  prineipally 
of  the  pony  hreed  ;  hut  reniarkiihly  stout  and 
long-winded.  Tlicy  are  hrought  in  n^reat  num- 
bers to  the  estahlisliments  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  and  sohl  for  a  mere  trlHe. 

Such  is  the  account  given  by  Captain  Bonne- 
ville of  the  Nez  Perces  ;  who,  if  not  viewed  by 
him  with  too  partial  an  eye,  are  certainly  among 
the  gentlest,  and  least  barbarous  people  of  these 
remote  wildeinesses.  They  i!« variably  signified 
to  him  their  earnest  wish  that  an  American  post 
might  be  establi^hed  among  them  ;  and  repeated- 
ly deelaied  that  they  would  trade  with  Ameri- 
cans, in  preference  to  any  other  people. 

Captain  Bonneville  had  intended  to  remain 
some  time  in  this  neighborhood,  to  Ibrm  an  ac- 
quaintance with  the  natives  and  to  collect  infor- 
mation, and  establish  connections  that  might  be 
advantageous  in  the  way  of  trade.  The  delays, 
however,  which  he  had  experienced  on  Ids  jour- 
ney, obliged  him  to  shorten  his  sojourn,  and  to 
set  off  as  soon  as  possible,  so  as  to  reach  the  ren- 
dezvous at  the  Portneuf  at  the  appointed  time. 
He  had  seen  enough  to  convince  him  that  an 
Americafi  trade  might  be  carried  on  with  au''an- 
tage  in  this  quarter  ;  and  he  determined  soon  to 
return  with  a  stronger  party,  more  completely 
fitted  for  the  purpose. 

As  he  stood  in  need  of  some  supplies  for  his 
journey,  he  applied  to  p  irchase  them  of  Mr. 
Pambrune  ;  but  soon  found  the  difference  be- 
tween being   treated    -as   a  guest,  or  as   a    rival 


ii  i 


REFUSAL    CF  SUPPLIES, 


857 


trader.  The  worthy  superlntpndent,  wlio  liad 
extended  to  him  all  the  «:eiiial  rite.'^  of  h(>i!>pituU 
ity,  now  suddenly  Hssumed  a  withered-up  aspect 
and  demeanor,  and  observed  that,  however  he 
might  feel  di.spo.sed  to  serve  him,  personally,  he 
felt  hound  by  his  duty  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  to  do  nothing  which  should  facilitate 
or  en(!ourage  the  vi.sits  of  other  traders  among 
the  Indians  iu  that  part  of  the  country.  He  en- 
deavored to  dissuade  Captuin  Boimevillo  from 
returning  through  the  Blue  Mountains  ;  assuring 
him  it  would  be  extremely  ditficult  and  danger- 
ous, if  not  impra(*ticable,  at  this  season  of  the 
year  ;  and  advised  him  to  accompany  Mr.  Pay- 
ette, a  leader  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company, 
who  was  about  to  depart  with  a  number  of  men, 
by  a  more  circuitous,  but  safe  route,  to  carry  sup- 
plies to  the  company's  agent,  resident  among  the 
Upper  Nez  Perces.  Captain  Bom)eville,  how- 
ever, piqued  at  his  having  refused  to  furnish  him 
with  supplies,  and  doubting  the  sincerity  of  his 
advice,  determined  to  return  by  the  more  direct 
route  through  the  mountains  ;  though  varying  his 
course,  in  some  respects,  from  that  by  which  he 
had  come,  in  consequence  of  information  gath- 
ered among  the  neishboriu":  Indians. 

Accordingly,  on  the  6th  of  March,  he  and 
his  three  companions,  accompanied  by  their  Nez 
Perc^  guides,  set  out  on  their  return.  In  the 
early  part  of  their  course,  they  touched  again  at 
several  of  the  Nez  Percd  villages,  where  they 
had  experienced  such  kind  treatment  on  their  way 
down.     They  were  always  welcomed  with  cordi- 


;  I 


^ijll 


S58 


BOSNF.VILIR'S  ADVKNTURKS. 


II 


11 


m 


■  I  :,  h 


ality;  and  everything  was  done  to  fheer  them 
on  their  journey. 

On  leaving  tlie  Way-lee-way  village,  they 
were  joined  by  a  Ncz  Percd,  whose  society  wjis 
welcome<l  on  aecount  of  the  genera!  gratitude  and 
good-will  tiiey  felt  for  his  tribe.  He  soon  provcnl 
a  heavy  clog  upon  the  little  party,  being  doltish 
and  taciturn,  lazy  in  the  extreme,  and  a  huge 
feeder.  His  only  proof  of  intellect  was  in 
shrewdly  avoiding  all  labor,  and  availing  him- 
self of  the  toil  of  otliers.  When  on  i^e  march, 
he  always  lagged  behind  the  rest,  leaving  to  them 
the  task  of  breakirig  a  way  through  all  difficulties 
and  impediments,  and  leisurely  and  lazily  jogging 
along  the  track,  which  they  had  beaten  through 
the  snow.  At  the  evening  encampnjent,  wiieii 
others  were  busy  gathering  fuel,  providing  for  the 
horses,  and  cooking  the  evening  repast,  this 
worthy  Sancho  of  the  wilderness  wouM  take  his 
seat  quietly  and  cosily  by  the  fire,  puffing  away 
at  his  pipe,  and  eying  in  silence,  but  w!*h  wistful 
intensity  of  gaze,  the  savory  morsels  roasting  for 
supper. 

When  meal-time  arrived,  however,  then  came 
his  season  of  activ'  y.  He  no  longer  hung  back, 
and  waited  for  ethers  to  take  the  lead,  but  dis- 
tinguished himself  by  a  brilliancy  of  onset,  and 
a  sustained  vigor  and  duration  of  attack,  that 
completely  shamed  the  efforts  of  his  competitors 
—  albeit,  experienctnl  trenchermen  of  no  mejin 
prowess.  Never  had  they  witnessed  such  a 
power  of  mastication,  and  such  marvelous  capac- 
ity of  stomach,  as  in  this  native  and  uncultivated 


>A  \ 


A  SANCnO    OF   THE    WILDERNESS.     359 

gastronome.  Having,  by  repeated  and  prolonged 
assaults,  at  length  completely  gorged  himself,  he 
would  wrap  himself  up,  and  lie  with  the  torpor 
of  an  anaconda,  slowly  digesting  his  way  on  to  the 
next  repast. 

The  gormandizing  powers  of  this  worthy  were 
at  first,  matters  of  surprise  and  merriment  to  the 
travellers  ;  but  they  soon  liecjime  too  serious  for 
a  joke,  threatening  devjtsUition  to  the  He8h-i)ots ; 
and  ho  was  regarde<l  Jtskance,  at  his  meals,  as  a 
regular  kill-crop,  destined  to  waste  the  substance 
of  the  party.  Nothing  but  a  sense  of  the  obliga- 
tions they  were  under  to  his  nation,  induced  them 
to  bear  with  such  a  guest ;  but  he  proceeded, 
speedily,  to  relieve  them  from  the  weight  of  these 
obligations,  by  eating  a  receipt  in  full. 


CHAPTER   XXXV. 

Tlie  uninvited  piicst.  — Free  nntl  easy  mnnncrs.  —  Sniutnry 
jokes. —  A  prodiL'nl  son.— Exit  of  the  ^'liitton.— A  sud- 
den  chnn^'e  in  fortune  —  Dan^jer  of  a  visit  to  poorrclnHons. 
—  Plucking  of  a  prosperous  man.  — A  va^^•ll)on(l  toilet.— 
A  substitute  for  the  vt-rv  tine  horse.  —  Hani  travelling'.— 
The  nninvited  guest  and  the  patriarchal  colt.  —  A  heg^'^ar  on 
horseback.  —  A  catastrophe.  —  Exit  of  the  merry  vagabond. 


1'^; 


S  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  men  were 
ent'ani|>e(l  one  evening  jiinono^  the  hills 
near  Snake  River,  seated  before  their 
fire,  enjoying  a  hearty  supper,  they  were  sud- 
denly surprised  by  the  visit  of  an  uninvited  guest. 
He  was  a  ragged,  half-naked  Indian  hmiter. 
armed  with  bow  and  arrows,  and  had  the  car«iss 
of  a  fine  buck  thrown  across  his  shoulder.  Ad- 
vancing with  an  alert  step,  and  free  ;ind  easy  air. 
lie  threw  the  buck  on  the  ground,  and,  vvithoul 
waiting  for  an  invitation,  seated  himself  at  their 
mess,  helped  himself  without  ceremony,  and 
chatted  to  the  rii^ht  and  left  in  the  liveliest  jind 
most  unembarrassed  manner.  No  adroit  atid 
veteran  dinner  hunter  of  a  metropolis  could  have 
acquitted  himself  more  knowingly.  The  trav- 
ellers were  at  first  (\)mplrtrly  taken  by  surprise, 
and  could  not  but  admire  the  facility  with  which 
this   ragged  cosmoi)olite   mtide    himself  at  liomo 


THE    UNINVfTFD   GUEST. 


361 


among  them.  "Wliile  they  stared  lie  went  on, 
making  the  most  of  tlie  good  cheer  upon  whioh 
he  had  so  fortunately  alighted ;  and  was  soon 
elbow  deep  in  "  pot  hu^k,"  and  greased  from  tho 
tip  of  his  nose  tx)  the  back  of  his  ears. 

As  the  company  recovi;red  from  their  surprise, 
they  began  to  feel  annoyed  at  this  intrusion. 
Tluur  uninvited  guest,  luiHke  the  generality  of 
his  tribe,  was  somewiiat  dirty  as  well  as  I'aggcid, 
and  they  had  no  relish  for  such  a  UKiSsinate. 
Heaping  up,  therefore,  an  abundant  portion  of 
the  "  provant "  upon  a  piece  of  bark  wliich 
served  for  a  dish,  they  invited  liim  to  confine 
himself  thereto,  instead  of  foraging  in  the  gen- 
eral mess. 

He  complied  with  the  most  accommodating 
s|)irit  imaginable  ;  and  went  on  eating  and  chat- 
ting, and  laughing  and  smearing  himself,  until  In'ii 
whole  countenance  shone  with  grease  and  gotnl- 
humor.  In  ihe  course  of  his  repast,  his  attention 
was  caught  by  the  figure  of  the  gastronome,  who, 
as  usual,  was  gorging  himself  in  dogged  silence. 
A  droll  cut  of  Jie  eye  showed  either  that  lie 
knew  him  of  old,  or  perceived  at  once  his  char- 
acteristics. He  immediately  made  him  the 
butt  of  his  pleasantries  ;  and  cracked  off  two  or 
three  good  hits,  that  caused  the  sluggish  dolt  to 
prick  up  his  ears,  and  delighted  all  the  company. 
From  tliis  time,  the  uninviie<l  guest  was  taken  into 
favor  ;  his  jwkes  began  to  be  relished  ;  his  Ciire- 
less,  free  and  easy  air,  to  be  considered  singu- 
larly amusing ;  and  in  the  end,  lie  was  pro- 
uounced  by    tho   travellers  one  of  the    raeiiiest 


502 


RONNF.VlLLrrS  ADVENTURES. 


p/>m;';ani<>ijs  and  most  entertaining  vagaboud' 
iliey  liad  met  with  in  tlie  wilderness. 

Supper  being  over,  tlie  redoubtable  She-wee- 
Hlie-ouait^r,  for  sueh  was  the  simple  name  b^ 
which  he  announced  himself,  declared  his  inten- 
tion of  kfMjping  coinp;iny  with  the  party  for  a 
day  or  two,  if  they  had  no  objection  ;  and  by 
way  of  ba(;king  his  self-invitation,  presented 
the  carcass  of  the  buck  as  an  earnest  of  his 
hunting  al)ilities.  By  this  time,  he  had  so  com- 
pletely effaced  the  unfiivorable  impression  made 
by  his  first  appearance,  that  he  was  made  vv^el- 
come  to  the  camp,  and  the  Nez  Perce  guide 
undertook  to  give  him  lodging  for  tlie  night. 
The  next  morning,  at  break  of  day,  he  borrowed 
a  gun,  and  was  off  among  tlie  hills,  nor  was  any- 
thing more  seen  of  him  until  a  few  minutes  aftm* 
the  party  had  enciimped  for  the  evening,  when 
he  again  made  his  a[)pearance,  in  his  usual  frank, 
Ciireless  manner,  and  threw  down  the  carcass  of 
another  noble  deer,  which  he  hi*d  borne  on  his 
back  for  a  considerable  distav: 

This  evening  he  w:is  tlie  li'i'  i>#  the  party,  and 
his  open  communicative  disposition,  free  from  all 
disguise,  soon  put  them  in  possession  of  his  his- 
t</rjr.  He  had  been  a  kind  of  i)rodigal  son  in  \m 
nativf;  village  ;  living  a  loose,  heedless  life,  and 
disregarding  the  precepts  and  imiKirative  com- 
mands of  tlie  chiefs,  lie  had,  in  consequence, 
l)een  exj)ell(id  from  the  village,  birt,  in  nowise 
dishear<xined  at  this  banishment,  had  betaken 
himselr  to  the  society  of  the  border  Indians,  and 
hiid    M    a   caich\jS,  hap-hazard,    vagalnjud    life, 


\\\\ 


EXIT   OF   Tin:   GLUTTON. 


SG3 


perfectly  consonant  to  liis  liii!n)rs;  heedless  of 
the  fiilure,  so  lonij  as  lie  had  wherewithal  for  the 
present;  and  fearing-  no  lack  of  food,  so  long  as 
he  liad  the  inijdements  of  the  chase,  and  a  fair 
hunting  ground. 

Finding  him  very  expert  as  a  hunter,  and 
])eiug  please<l  with  his  ecccMitricities,  and  his 
strange  and  merry  humor.  Captain  Honnevillc 
fitted  hii"  out  handsomely  as  the  Ninirod  of  the 
party,  whc  all  soon  hecanie  quite  att;iched  to  him. 
One  of  the  earliest  and  most  signal  services  ho 
performed,  was  to  exorcise  the  insatiate  kill-crop, 
that  had  hitherto  oppressed  the  party,  l::  fact, 
the  doltish  Nez  Perce,  who  had  seemed  so  per- 
fectly insensihle  to  rough  treatment  of  every  kind, 
hv  which  the  travellers  had  endeavored  to  clhovv 
him  out  of  their  society,  could  not  witlistand  tho 
good-humored  bantering,  an<l  occasionally  sharp 
wit  of  She-wee-she.  lie  evidently  (juailed  under 
his  jokes,  and  sat  blinking  like  an  owl  in  ♦lay- 
light,  when  pestered  by  the  Houts  and  peckings 
of  mischievous  birds.  At  length  his  place  was 
found  vacant  at  meal-time;  no  one  knew  when 
he  wtnit  off,  or  whither  he  had  gone,  but  he  wan 
seen  no  more,  and  the  vast  surplus  that  remained 
wluMi  tlu;  repast  was  over,  showed  what  a  mighty 
gormandizer  had  dejiarted. 

Relieved  from  this  incubus,  the  little  party 
now  went  on  cheerily.  She-wee-she  kept  tln'iu 
in  fun  as  well  as  food.  His  hunting  was  always 
successful  ;  he  was  ever  rea<ly  to  render  any 
Assistance  in  the  c:im[)  or  on  the  march  ;  while  \\h 
jokes,  his   antics,  and  the  very  cut  of  his  counte- 


SCA 


B ONNE VI LIE'S  A D VEN TUR ES. 


nance,  so  full  of  whim  and  comicality,  kept  every 
one  in  good-humor. 

In  this  way  they  journeyed  on  until  they  ar- 
rived on  the  hanks  of  the  Immahali,  and  en- 
camped near  to  the  Nez  Perce  lodges.  Here 
She-wee-she  took  a  sudden  notion  to  visit  his 
people,  and  show  off  the  state  of  worldly  pros- 
perity to  which  he  had  so  suddenly  atUiined. 
lie  accordingly  departed  in  the  morning,  arrayed 
in  hunter's  style,  and  well  appointed  with  every- 
thing helitting  his  vocation.  The  huoyancy  of 
his  gait,  the  elasticity  of  his  step,  and  the  hilarity 
of  his  countenance,  showed  that  he  anticipated, 
with  chuckling  satisfaction,  the  surprise  he  was 
ahout  to  give  those  who  had  ejected  liim  from 
their  society  in  rags.  But  what  a  change  was 
there  in  his  whole  appearance  when  he  rejoined 
the  pr.rty  hi  tlie  evening !  He  came  skulking 
into  camp  like  a  heaten  cur,  with  his  tail  he- 
tween  his  legs.  All  Ms  finery  was  gone  ;  he 
was  naked  as  when  he  was  horn,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  scanty  flap  that  answered  the  pur- 
pose of  a  tig-leaf,  ilis  fellow-travellers  at  first 
did  not  know  him,  hut  supposed  it  to  be  some 
vagrant  P/ot  Digger  sneaking  into  the  camp; 
but  wh'ii  they  recognized  in  this  forlorn  object 
the'r  prinit.  wag.  She-wee-she,  whom  they  had 
seen  dep;irt  hi  the  morning  in  such  high  glee  and 
high  Icathf  ,  tfiey  could  not  contain  their  merri- 
ment, but  hailed  him  with  loud  and  repeated  peals 
of  laughter. 

She-wet  she  w;xs  not  of  a  spirit  to  be  easily 
(aatd<nvn;  he  soon   joineil  in  the  merriment  as 


A  REVERSE   OF  FORTUNE. 


365 


l\ 


'  s 


heartily  as  any  one,  and  seemed  to  consider  hia 
reverse  of  fortune  an  excellent  joke.  Cai)tain 
Bonneville,  however,  thought  i)roj)er  to  check  his 
good-humor,  and  demanded,  with  some  degree  of 
sternness,  the  cause  of  his  altered  condition.  Ho 
re})lied  in  the  most  natural  and  self-comj)lacent 
style  imaginahle,  "  that  he  had  heen  among  his 
cousins,  who  were  very  poor ;  they  had  heen 
delighted  to  see  him ;  still  more  delighted  with 
his  good  fortune  ;  they  had  taken  him  to  their 
ar.as ;  admired  his  equipments ;  one  had  hegged 
for  this;  another  for  that"  —  in  fine,  what  with 
the  poor  devil's  iidierent  heedlessness,  and  the  real 
generosity  of  his  disposition,  his  needy  cousins 
had  succeeded  in  stripping  him  of  all  his  clotluis 
and  accoutrements,  excej^ting  the  lig-leaf  with 
wliich  he  had  returned  to  camp. 

Seeing  his  total  want  of  care  and  fi^rethought, 
Captain  lionneville  determined  to  let  him  suffer 
a  little,  in  hopes  it  might  prove  a  salutary  lesson ; 
and,  at  any  rate,  to  make  him  no  more  presents 
while  in  the  neighhorhood  of  his  needy  cousins, 
lie  was  left,  therefore,  to  shift  for  himself  in  his 
naked  condition  ;  which,  however,  did  not  seem 
to  give  him  any  concern,  or  to  ahate  one  jot  of 
his  ffood-humor.  In  the  course  of  his  lounfrinff 
about  the  camp,  however,  he  got  possession  of  a 
deer-skin  ;  whereupon,  cutting  a  slit  in  the  mid- 
dle, he  thrust  his  head  through  it.  so  that  the 
two  ends  hung  down  hefore  and  behind,  soTie- 
tlii'ig  like  a  South  American  poncho,  or  the  ta- 
bard of  a  herald.  These  ends  he  tied  toffether. 
under  the  armpits  j  and  thus  arrayed,  presented 


M 


3G6 


n ONNE  villi: s  a d  vln  tubes. 


himself  once  more  before  the  captain,  with  nn 
air  of  jierfcct  self-satisfaction,  as  thongh  ho 
thought  it  inipossihle  for  any  fault  to  be  found 
with  his  toilette. 

A  little  further  journoying  brought  tlie  travitl- 
lers  to  llij  petty  village  of  Nez  Perces,  govenuMi 
by  the  worthy  and  aHf'eetionate  old  patriarch  who 
had  made  C'aptain  n«jnneville  the  costly  ])resent 
of  the  voA-y  line  horse.  The  old  man  welcomed 
them  onee  more  to  his  villaire  with  his  usu;d 
cordiality,  and  his  respectable  s<|uaw  and  hopeful 
son,  cherishing  grateful  recollections  of  the  hatchet 
and  ear-bobs,  joined  iii  a  chorus  of  friendly  gratu- 
lation. 

As  the  nmch-vaunted  steed,  once  the  joy  and 
pride  of  this  interesting  family,  was  now  nearly 
knocked  up  by  travelling,  and  totally  inadecpiate 
to  the  mountain  scraml)h;  that  lay  ahead.  Captain 
l>onneville  restored  him  to  the  venerable  })atri- 
arch,  with  renewed  acknowlediiments  for  the 
invaluable  gift.  Somewhat  to  his  surprise,  he 
w.ns  innnediately  supplied  with  a  fine  two  years' 
old  colt  in  his  stetid,  a  substitution  which,  he 
afterwards  learnt,  accordinjj  to  Indian  custom 
in  such  cases,  he  might  have  claimed  as  a  matter 
of  right.  We  do  not  find  that  any  after  claims 
were  made  on  account  of  this  colt.  This  dona- 
tion may  be  regarded,  therefore,  as  a  signal  punc- 
tilio of  Indian  honor ;  but  it  will  be  found  that 
the  animal  soon  proved  an  unlucky  icquisition  to 
the  party. 

While  at  this  village,  the  Nez  P(U'ce  guide  had 
held  consultations   with  some   of  the  inhabitants 


THE  INDIAN  DROLL. 


367 


as  to  the  monntjiiii  tract  the  party  weie  ahout  to 
traverse.  He  now  ht'gun  to  wear  an  anxious 
asjiect,  and  to  induli^e  in  gloomy  forcbodiiiiijs. 
The  snow,  he  had  been  U)ld,  lay  to  a  great  depth 
in  the  passes  of  the  mountains,  and  (hdienltie.s 
wouM  increase  as  he  ])roceeded.  He  hei;irc<l 
Captain  Bonneville,  therefore,  to  travel  V(;ry 
slowly,  so  as  to  keep  the  horses  in  strength  and 
spirit  for  the  hard  times  they  wouM  liave  to  en- 
counter. The  Captain  surrendered  the  regula- 
tion of  the  march  entinjly  to  Ins  discretion,  and 
pushed  on  in  the  adviince,  amusing  himself  with 
Imnting,  so  as  generally  to  kill  a  deer  or  two  in 
the  course  of  the  day,  and  arriving,  before  the 
rest  of  the  i)arty,  at  the  spot  designated  by  tho 
guide  for  the  evening's  encsimpment. 

In  the  meantime,  the  others  plodded  on  at  the 
lieels  of  the  guide,  accompanied  by  that  merry 
vagabond.  She-wee-she.  The  primitive  garb 
worn  by  this  droll,  left  all  his  nether  man  ex- 
j)osed  to  the  biting  blasts  of  the  mountains. 
Still  his  wit  was  never  frozen,  nor  his  sunshiny 
temper  beclouded ;  and  his  innumerable  antics 
and  practical  jokes,  while  they  rpiickened  the 
circulation  of  his  own  blood,  kept  his  companions 
in  high  good-humor. 

So  passed  the  first  day  after  the  departure 
from  tlie  patriarch's.  The  second  day  com- 
menced in  the  same  manner ;  the  capLain  in  the 
advance,  ihe  rest  of  the  party  following  on  slowly. 
She-wee-she,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  time, 
trudged  on  foot  over  the  snow,  k<M'ping  himself 
warm  by  hard   exercise,  and  all  kinds  of  c  '.uy 


¥i 


p  >, 

f  >  I 

Iff 


568 


B ONNK VfLLfrS  A D  VENTURES. 


capers.  In  the  liei;[,']it  of  his  foolery,  tlie  patri- 
archal colt,  whicli,  unbroken  to  the  saddle,  was 
Buffered  to  follow  on  at  larj^e,  happ(!ned  to  como 
within  his  reach.  In  a  moment,  he  was  on  his 
hack,  sna[)ping  his  fingers,  and  yeljiing  with  de- 
light. The  colt,  unused  to  such  a  burden,  and 
half  wild  by  nature,  fell  to  i)rancing  and  rearing 
and  snorting  and  plunging  and  kicking;  and,  at 
length,  set  off  full  speed  over  the  most  danger- 
ous ground.  As  the  route  led  generally  along 
the  steep  and  craggy  sides  of  the  hills,  both  horse 
and  horseman  were  constantly  in  danger,  and 
more  than  once  had  a  hair-breadth  esciipe  from 
deadly  peril.  Nothing,  however,  could  daunt 
this  madcap  savage.  He  stuck  to  the  colt  like  a 
plaster,  up  ridges,  down  gullies  ;  whooping  and 
yelling  with  the  wildest  glee.  Never  did  beggar 
on  horseback  display  more  headlong  horseman- 
ship. His  companions  followed  him  with  their 
eyes,  sometimes  laughing,  sometimes  holding  in 
their  breath  at  his  vagaries,  until  they  saw  the 
colt  make  a  sudden  plunge  or  start,  and  pitch 
his  unlucky  rider  headlong  over  a  precipice. 
There  was  a  general  cry  of  horror,  and  all 
liastened  to  the  spot.  They  found  the  poor 
fellow  lying  among  the  rocks  below,  sadly 
bruised  and  manned.  It  was  almost  a  miracle 
that  he  had  escaped  with  life.  Even  in  this  con- 
dition, his  merry  spirit  was  not  entirely  quelled, 
and  he  summoned  up  a  feeble  laugh  at  the 
alarm  and  anxiety  of  those  who  came  to  his  re- 
lief. He  was  extricated  from  his  rocky  bed,  and 
ifc  messenger  dispatched  to  inform  Captain  Bonne- 


MISADVENTURE   OF  SnE-WEE-SHE.    869 


] 


e  patri- 
ille,  was 
to  conio 
\  oil  l»ia 
with  (U'- 
(Icn,  uiid 
I  rearing 
;  and,  at 
,  dangev- 
lly  along 
otli  horse 
mer,  and 
'upe  from 
lid    daunt 
jolt  like  a 
oping  and 
lid  beggar 
horsenian- 
with  their 

lokUng  in 
;y  saw  the 

and  pitch 
precipice. 

',    and   all 
the    poor 

|low,    sadly 
a  miracle 

n  this  con- 

[ly  quelled, 

gh   at    the 

to  his  re- 

y  bed,  and 

in  Bonne- 


ville of  the  at  <'ident.  Tlie  latter  returned  with 
uU  speed,  and  enciimped  the  party  at  the  first 
conveni(»nt  spot.  Here  the  woundcMl  man  wsus 
stretched  upon  Initt'alo  skins,  and  the  raptain, 
who  ottioiate<l  on  all  occasions  as  doctor  and 
surgeon  to  the  party,  proceeded  to  examine  his 
wounds.  The  principal  one  was  a  long  and  dc«'p 
gush  in  the  thigli,  which  reached  to  the  bone. 
Calling  for  a  needle  and  thread,  the  captain  now 
prepared  to  sew  up  the  wound,  admonishing  the 
patient  to  submit  to  the  o|)eration  with  becijming 
fortitude.  His  gayety  was  at  an  (Mid;  he  could 
no  longer  sunnnon  up  even  a  forced  smile ;  and, 
at  the  lirst  |)uncture  of  the  needle,  flincluMl  so  pit- 
ously,  that  the  captain  was  obliged  to  pause,  and 
to  order  him  a  powerful  dose  of  alcohol.  This 
somewhat  rallied  up  his  spirit  and  warmed  his 
lieart ;  all  the  time  of  the  operation,  however, 
he  kept  his  eyes  riveted  on  the  wound,  with  his 
teeth  set,  and  a  whimsical  wincing  of  the  counte- 
nance, that  occasionally  gave  his  nose  something 
of  its  usual  comic  curl. 

When  the  wound  was  fairly  closed,  the  captiiin 
washed  it  with  rum,  and  administered  a  second 
dose  of  the  same  to  the  patient,  who  was  tucked 
in  for  the  night,  and  advised  to  compose  himself 
to  sleep.  He  was  restless  and  uneasy,  however  ; 
repeatedly  expressing  his  fears  that  his  leg  would 
he  so  much  swollen  the  next  day,  as  to  pi  event 
his  proceeding  with  the  party  ;  nor  couhl  he  be 
quieted,  until  the  Ciiptain  gave  a  decided  opinion 
favorable  to  his  wishes. 

Eari'y  tlie  next  morning,  a  gleam  of  his  merry 
24 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
.jT  target  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


■^    iim     12  2 


1.8 


1-25      1.4       1.6 

4 6"     

► 

v] 


^% 


V. 


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^;. 


'ci^l 


^ 


^^V'^ 


/^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


^ 


i\ 


<^ 


<v 


^^ 


O 


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o"..^  <^,;'4A 


% 


V 


'^ 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  873-4503 


m 


mi: 


370 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


humor  returned,  on  finding  that  his  woi;nded 
limb  retained  its  natural  proportions.  On  at- 
tempting to  use  it,  however,  he  found  himself 
unable  to  stand.  He  made  several  efforts  to 
coax  himself  into  a  belief  that  he  might  still 
continue  forward  ;  but  at  length,  shook  his  head 
despondingly,  and  said,  that  "  as  he  had  but  one 
leg,"  it  was  all  m  vain  to  attempt  i  passage  of 
the  mountain. 

Every  one  grieved  to  part  with  so  boon  a 
companion,  and  under  such  disastrous  oircumstan- 
ces.  He  was  once  more  clothed  and  equipped, 
each  one  making  him  some  parting  present,  lie 
was  then  hel|>ed  on  a  horse,  which  Captain  Bon- 
neville presented  to  him  ;  and  after  many  part- 
ing expressions  of  good- will  on  both  sides,  set  off 
on  his  return  to  his  old  haunts ;  doubtless,  to  l>e 
once  more  plucked  by  his  atTectiouate  bufc  needy 
oousics. 


wo\  nded 

On   at- 

himself 

ifforts    to 

iglit    still 

his  head 

I  but  one 

assage  of 

,0  boon  a 
ircumstan- 

equipped, 
!sent.  lie 
ptain  Bon- 
many  part- 
idcs,  set  otf 
)tless,  to  he 

but,  needy 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

The  difiicult  mountain.  —  A  smoke  and  consultation.  —  The 
captain's  speech. — An  icy  turnpike. — Danger  of  a  falsa 
step.  — Arrival  on  Snak  «  Hiver.  —  Return  to  Tortneuf. — 
Meeting  of  comrades. 

ONTINUING  their  journey  up  the 
course  of  the  Immahali,  the  travellers 
j]  found,  as  they  approached  the  head 
waters,  tlie  snow  increased  in  quantity,  so  as  to 
lie  two  feet  deep.  They  were  afjain  obliged, 
tlierefore,  to  beat  down  a  patii  for  tlieir  horses, 
Bonietimes  travelling  on  the  icy  surface  of  the 
stream.  At  length  they  reached  the  place  where 
they  intended  to  scale  tlie  mountain  ;  and,  hav- 
ing broken  a  pat li way  to  the  foot,  were  agreea- 
bly surprised  to  find  tliat  the  wind  had  drifted 
the  snow  from  off  tlie  side,  so  that  thev  attained 
tlio  summit  with  but  little  ditficulty.  Here  tliey 
encamped,  vvitli  the  intention  of  beating  a  track 
through  the  mountains.  A  short  experiment, 
however,  obliged  them  to  give  up  the  attempt, 
the  snow  lying  in  vast  drifts,  often  higher  than 
the  horses'  heads. 

Captain  Bonneville  now  took  the  two  Indian 
guides,  and  set  out  to  recoimoitre  the  neighbor- 
hood. Observing  a  higli  peak  which  overtopped 
the  rest,  he  climbed  it,  and  discovered  from  the 


I    t 


I# 


872 


BONNEVILLE'S  /-} VENTURES. 


4 


Bummit  a  pass  about  nine  miles  long,  but  so 
heavily  piled  with  snow,  that  it  seemed  impracti- 
cable. He  now  lit  a  pipe,  and,  sitting  down 
with  the  two  guides,  proceeded  to  hold  a  consul- 
tation after  the  Indian  mode.  For  a  long  while 
they  all  smoked  vigorously  and  in  silence,  pon- 
dering over  the  subject-matter  before  them.  At 
length  a  discussion  commenced,  and  the  opinion 
in  which  the  two  guides  concurred,  was,  that  the 
horses  could  not  possibly  cross  the  snows.  They 
advised,  therefore,  that  the  party  should  proceed 
on  foot,  and  they  should  take  the  horses  back  tj 
the  village,  where  they  would  be  well  taken  care 
of  until  Captain  Bonneville  should  send  for  them. 
They  urged  this  advice  with  great  earnestness ; 
declaring  that  their  chief  would  be  extremely 
angry,  and  treat  them  severely,  should  any  of 
the  horses  of  his  good  friends,  the  white  men,  be 
lost,  in  crossing  under  their  guidance  ;  and  that, 
therefore,  it  was  good  they  should  not  attempt 
it. 

Captain  Bonneville  sat  smoking  his  pipe,  and 
listening  to  them  with.  Indian  silence  and  gravity. 
When  they  had  finished,  he  replied  to  them  in 
their  own  style  of  language. 

"  My  friends,"  said  he,  "  I  have  seen  the  pass, 
and  have  listened  to  your  words ;  you  have  little 
hearts.  When  troubles  and  dangers  lie  in  your 
way,  you  turn  your  backs.  That  is  not  the  way 
with  my  nation.  When  great  obstacles  present, 
and  threaten  to  keep  them  back,  their  hearts 
Bwell,  and  they  push  forward.  They  love  to 
conquer  difficulties.     But    enough  for  the    pres- 


uiiif 


MAKING  AN  ICE  ROAD. 


373 


ent.     Kight  is  coming  on  ;  let  U3  return  to  our 
camp." 

He  moved  on,  and  tliey  ibllovved  in  silence. 
On  reaching  the  camp,  he  found  the  men  ex- 
tremely discouraged.  One  of  their  number  had 
been  surveying  the  neighborhood,  and  seriously 
assured  them,  that  the  snow  was  at  least  a  hun- 
dred feet  deep.  The  captain  cheered  them  up, 
and  diffused  fresh  spirit  in  them  b)^  his  example. 
Still  he  was  much  perplexed  how  to  proceed. 
About  dark  there  was  a  slight  drizzliuij  rain. 
An  expedient  now  suggested  itself.  This  v/as  to 
make  two  light  sleds,  place  the  packs  on  them, 
and  drag  them  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain, 
thus  forming  a  road  in  the  wet  snow,  which, 
should  it  afterwards  freeze,  would  be  sufficiently 
hard  to  bear  ilu",  horses.  Tiiis  plan  was  promptly 
put  into  execution  ;  the  sleds  were  constructed, 
the  heavy  baggage  was  drawn  backward  and  for- 
ward until  the  road  was  beaten,  when  they  de- 
sisted from  their  fatiguing  labor.  Tiie  night 
turned  out  clear  and  cold,  and  by  morning,  their 
road  was  incrusted  with  ice  sufficiently  strong  for 
fheir  purpose.  They  now  set  out  on  their  icy 
turnpike,  and  got  on  well  enough,  excepting  that 
now  and  then  a  horse  would  sidle  out  of  the 
track,  and  immediately  sink  up  .o  the  neck. 
Then  came  on  toil  and  difficulty,  and  they  would 
be  obliged  to  haul  up  the  floundering  animal  with 
»"ope3.  One,  more  unlucky  than  the  rest,  after 
•repeated  falls,  had  to  be  abandoned  in  the  snow. 
Notwithstanding  these  repeated  delays,  they  suc- 
ceeded, before   the  sun    had  acquired    sufficient 


ii^f  ^ 


374 


B ONNE  VILLEPS  AD  VENTURES. 


power  to  thaw  the  snow,  in  getting  all  the  rest 
of  their  horses  safely  to  the  other  side  of  tho 
mountain. 

Their  difficulties  and  dangers,  however,  were 
not  yet  at  an  end.  They  had  now  to  descend, 
and  the  whole  surface  of  the  snow  was  glazed 
with  ice.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to  wait 
until  the  warmth  of  the  sun  should  melt  the 
glassy  crust  of  sleet,  and  give  them  a  foothold 
in  tlie  yielding  snow.  They  had  a  frightful 
warning  of  the  danger  of  any  movement  while 
tlie  sleet  remained.  A  wild  young  mare,  in  her 
restlessness,  strayed  to  the  edge  of  the  declivity. 
One  slip  was  fatal  to  her  ;  she  lost  her  balance, 
careered  with  headlong  velocity  down  the  slip- 
pery side  of  the  mountain  for  more  than  two 
thousand  feet,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  at  the 
bottom.  When  the  travellers  afterwards  sought 
the  carcass  to  cut  it  up  for  food,  they  fjund  it 
torn  and  mangled  in  the  most  horrible  man- 
ner. 

It  was  quite  late  in  the  evening  before  tl  e 
party  descended  to  the  ultimate  skirts  of  the 
snow.  Here  they  planted  large  logs  below  them 
to  prevent  their  sliding  down,  and  encamped  for 
the  night.  The  next  day  they  succeeded  in 
bringing  down  their  baggage  to  the  encampment ; 
then  packing  all  up  regularly  and  loading  their 
horses,  they  once  more  set  out  briskly  and  cheer- 
fully, and  in  the  course  of  the  following  day  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  to  a  grassy  region. 

Here  their  Nez  Perce  guides  declared  that  all 
the  difficulties  of  the  mountains  were  at  an  end, 


i  -' 


SIGNS    OF    WHITE  MEN, 


375 


and  their  course  wjis  plain  and  simple,  and 
needed  no  further  guidance;  they  asked  leave, 
therefore,  to  return  home.  Tliis  was  readily 
granted,  with  many  tliauks  and  presents  for  their 
faithful  services.  Tliey  took  a  long  farewell 
smoke  with  their  white  friends,  after  wliich,  they 
mounted  their  horses  and  set  off,  exchanirinji 
many  farewells  and  kind  wishes. 

On  the  following  day.  Captain  Bonneville 
completed  his  journey  down  the  mountain,  and 
encamped  on  the  borders  of  Snake  River,  where 
lie  found  the  grass  in  great  abundance  and  eight 
inches  in  height.  In  this  neighborhood,  he  saw 
on  the  rocky  banks  of  the  river  several  prismoids 
of  basal tes,  rising  to  the  height  of  fifty  or  sixty 
feet. 

Nothing  particularly  worthy  of  note  occurred 
during  several  days  as  the  party  proceeded  up 
along  Snake  River  and  across  its  tributary 
streams.  After  crossing  Gun  Creek,  they  met 
with  various  signs  that  white  people  were  in  the 
neighborhood,  and  Captain  Bonneville  made 
earnest  exertions  to  discover  whether  they  were 
any  of  his  own  people,  that  he  might  join  them. 
He  soon  ascertained  that  they  had  been  starved 
out  of  this  tract  of  country,  and  had  betaken 
themselves  to  the  buffalo  region,  whither  he  now 
shaped  his  course.  In  proceeding  along  Snake 
River,  he  found  small  hordes  of  Shoshonies  linger- 
ing upon  the  minor  streams,  and  living  upon 
trout  and  other  fish,  which  they  catch  in  great 
numbers  at  this  season  in  fish-traps.  The 
greater  part  of  the   tribe,   however,   had  pene* 


!    it 


■,  ! 


i 


376 


B ONNE VILLI? S  ADVEN  TUBES. 


trated  the   mountains  to   hunt  the  elk,  deer,  and 
ahsahto  or  bighorn. 

On  the  ]2tli  of  May,  Captain  Bonneville 
reached  the  Portneuf  River,  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  he  had  left  the  winter  encampment  of  hifl 
company  on  the  preceding  Christmas  day.  He 
had  tnen  expected  to  be  back  by  the  beginning 
of  March,  but  circumstances  had  detained  him 
upwards  of  two  months  beyond  the  time,  and  the 
winter  encampment  must  long  ere  this  have  been 
broken  up.  Halting  on  the  banks  of  the  Port- 
neuf, he  dispatched  scouts  a  few  miles  nbove,  to 
visit  the  old  camping  ground  and  search  tor  signals 
of  the  party,  or  of  their  whereabouts,  should  they 
actually  have  abandoned  the  spot.  They  returned 
without  being  able  to  ascertain  anything. 

Toeing  now  destitute  of  provisions,  the  travel- 
lers i  jund  it  necessary  tr  make  a  short  hunting 
ei^carsion  after  buffalo.  They  made  caches, 
therefore,  in  an  island  in  the  river,  in  which  they 
deposited  all  their  baggage,  and  then  set  out  on 
their  expedition.  They  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
kill  a  couple  of  fine  bulls,  and  cutting  up  the 
carcasses,  determined  to  husband  this  stock  of 
provisions  with  the  most  miserly  care,  lest  they 
should  again  be  obliged  to  venture  into  the  open 
and  dangerous  hunting  grounds.  Returning  to 
their  island  on  the  18th  of  May,  they  found  that 
the  wolves  had  been  at  the  caches,  scratched  up 
the  contents,  and  scattered  them  in  t^.very  direc- 
tion. They  now  constructed  a  more  secure  one, 
in  ^which  they  deposited  their  heaviest  articles, 
auf*  then  descended  Snake  River  again,  and  en- 


f 


BE  UNI  ON   OF  PARTIES. 


377 


camped  just  above  the  American  Falls.  Here 
they  proceeded  to  fortify  themselves,  intending 
to  remain  here,  and  give  their  ho  -es  an  oppor- 
tunity to  recruit  their  strengtli  with  ^  od  pastur- 
age, until  it  should  be  time  to  set  out  for  the  an- 
ji'ial  rendezvous  in  Bear  River  Valley. 

On  the  1st  of  June  tliey  descried  four  men  on 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  opposite  to  the  camp, 
and,  having  attracted  their  attention  by  a  dis- 
charge of  rif  es,  ascertained  to  their  joy  that  they 
were  rome  jf  their  own  people.  From  tiiese 
men  Captain  Bonneville  learnt  that  the  w'.iolo 
party  which  he  had  left  in  the  preceding  month 
of  December,  were  encamped  on  Blackfoot  River, 
a  tributary  of  Snake  River,  not  very  h.r  above 
tiie  Portneuf.  Thitlier  he  proceeded  with  all 
possible  dispatch,  and  in  a  little  while  had  the 
pleasure  of  finding  himseF  once  more  surrounded 
by  his  people,  who  greeteci  his  return  among  them 
?n  the  heartiest  manner  ;  for  his  long-protracted 
absence  had  convinced  them  that  he  and  liis  three 
companions  had  been  cut  oiF  by  some  hostile 
tribe. 

The  party  had  siiffered  much  during  his  ab- 
sence. They  had  een  pinched  by  famine  and 
almost  starved,  and  had  been  foiced  to  repair  to 
the  caches  at  Salmon  River.  Here  they  fell  in 
with  the  Blackfeet  bands,  and  considered  them- 
selves fortunate  in  being  able  to  retreat  from  the 
dangerous  neighborhood  without  sustaining  any 
loss. 

Being  thus  reunited,  a  general  treat  from 
Captain  Bonneville  to  his  men  was  a  matter  of 


p 


378 


B ONNE  VILLl'TS  AD  VENTURES. 


course.  Two  days,  tlierefore,  were  given  up  to 
such  feastitjf^  and  men  iment  as  their  means  and 
situation  afforded.  Wliat  was  wanting  in  good 
clieer  was  made  up  in  good-will  ;  the  free  trap- 
pers in  particular,  distinguished  themselves  on  the 
occasion,  and  the  saturnalia  was  enjoyed  with  a 
liearty  holiday  spirit,  that  smacked  of  the  gams 
flavor  of  the  wilderness. 


t        < 
1 

1 

CHAPTER   XXXVII. 

D(  partiirc  for  the  rendezvous.  —  A  war  party  of  Blackfeet.  — 
A  mock  bustle.  —  Sham  fires  at  nij^^ht.  —  Warlike  precau- 
tions. —  Dangers  of  a  nififht  attack.  —  A  panic  among 
horses.  —  Cautious  march.  —  Tlie  lieer  Sprin^^s.  —  A  mock 
carousal. —  SkiruMthingwith  hulFaloes.  —  A  butliilo  bait, — 
Arrival  at  the  rendezvous.  —  Meeting  of  various  bands. 


FTER  the  two  days  of  festive  indul- 
gence, Captain  Bonneville  broke  up  ilie 
encampment,  and  set  out  with  his  mot- 
ley crew  of  hired  and  free  trappers,  half-breeds, 
Indians,  and  squaws,  for  the  main  rendezvous  in 
Bear  River  Valley.  Directing  his  course  up  the 
Blackfoot  River,  he  soon  reached  the  hills  among 
which  it  takes  its  rise.  Here,  wiiile  on  the  march, 
he  descried  from  the  brow  of  a  hill,  a  war  party 
of  about  sixty  Blackfeet,  on  the  plain  immediately 
below  him.  His  situation  was  perilous  ;  for  the 
greater  part  of  his  people  were  dispersed  in  vari- 
ous directions.  Still,  to  betray  hesitation  or  fear, 
woidd  be  to  discover  his  actual  weakness,  and  to 
invite  attack.  He  assumed,  instantly,  therefore, 
a  belligerent  tone  ;  ordered  the  squaws  to  lead 
the  horses  to  a  small  grove  of  ashen  trees,  and 
unload  and  tie  them  ;  and  caused  a  great  bustle 
to  be  made  by  his  scanty  handful ;  the  leaders 
riding  hither  and  thither,  and  vociferating  with 


Ml      I 


1 


880 


B ONNE Vr LIE'S  A D  VENTURES. 


i  v 


all  tlioir  minrht,  na  if  a  numerous  force  were  get- 
ting; under  way  f()r  an  attack. 

To  keep  up  the  <lece[)tion  as  to  his  force,  lie 
ordered,  at  ni«;lit,  a  number  of  extra  fires  to  he 
made  in  his  camp,  and  kept  up  a  viij^ihuit  watcli. 
His  men  were  all  directed  to  keep  themselves 
prepared  for  instant  action.  In  siich  cases  the 
experienced  trapper  sleeps  in  his  clothes,  with  his 
rifie  be^^ide  him,  the  shot-belt  and  powder-flask 
on  the  stock  ;  so  that,  in  case  of  alarm,  he  can 
Ijiy  his  hand  upon  the  whole  of  his  Cvpiipment  at 
once,  and  start  up,  com[)letely  armed. 

Captain  I^oiuieville  was  also  especially  ciirefnl 
to  secure  the  horses,  and  set  a  vigilant  guanl 
upon  them  ;  for  there  lies  the  great  object  and 
principal  danger  of  a  night  attack.  The  grand 
move  of  the  lurking  savage  is  to  cause  a  panic 
among  the  horses.  In  such  cases  one  horse 
frightens  another,  until  all  are  alarmed,  and 
struggle  to  bieak  loose.  In  camps  where  there 
are  great  mimbers  of  Indians,  with  their  horses, 
a  night  alarm  of  the  kind  is  tremendous.  The 
rumiing  of  the  horses  that  have  broken  loose  ; 
the  snorting,  stamping,  and  rearing  of  those 
which  remain  fast ;  the  howling  of  dogs  ;  the 
yelling  of  Indians ;  the  scampering  of  white 
men,  and  red  men,  with  their  guns  ;  tlie  over- 
turning of  lodges,  and  trampling  of  fires  by  the 
horses;  the  flashes  of  the  fii'es,  lighting  up  forms 
of  men  and  steeds  dasliing  throuirh  the  alooin, 
altogether  make  up  one  of  the  wildest  scenes  of 
confusion  imaginable.  In  this  way,  sometimes, 
all  the  horses  of  a  camp,  amounting  to  several 
hundred,  will  be  frightened  off  in  a  single  night. 


A  MOCK   CAROUSE, 


881 


The  lujzht  imssfd  olF  willioiit  any  distiirlmnce ; 
but  there  was  no  likelihood  that  a  war  parly  of 
Blackfeet,  once  on  th(!  track  of  a  tamp  where 
there  was  a  cliance  for  spoils,  would  tail  to  iiover 
round  it.  The  captain,  therefore,  continued  to 
maintain  the  most  vigilant  precautions  ;  throwing 
out  scouts  in  the  advance,  and  on  every  risin;; 
ground. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  he  arrived  at  the 
plain  of  wiiite  clay,  u'leady  mentione'l,  sur- 
rounded by  the  mineral  springs,  called  IJeer 
Springs  by  the  trappers.^  Here  tlie  men  all 
halted  to  have  a  regale.  In  a  few  momenta 
every  spring  had  its  jovial  knot  of  hard  drinkers, 
with  tin  cup  in  hand,  indulguig  in  a  mock  ca- 
rouse ;  quaffing,  pledgi:ig,  toasting,  bandying 
joV  js,  singing  drinking  songs,  and  uttering  peals 
of  laughter,  until  it  seemed  as  if  their  imagina- 
tions had  given  potency  to  the  beverage,  and 
cheated  them  into  a  fit  of  intoxication.  Indeed, 
in  the  excitement  of  the  moment,  they  were  loud 


1  In  a  manuscript  journal  of  Mr.  Nathaniel  G.  Wyeth,  we 
find  the  following  mention  of  this  vvaterin.i;-place: 

"  There  is  here  a  soda  spring;  or,  I  may  say,  fifty  of  them. 
These  springs  throw  out  lime,  which  deposits  and  forms  little 
hillocks  of  a  yellowish  colored  stone.  There  is.  also,  here,  a 
warm  spring,  which  throws  out  water  with  a  jet;  win* -h  is 
ike  bilge-water  in  taste.  There  are,  also,  here,  peat  beds, 
which  sometimes  take  fire,  and  leave  behind  a  deep,  light 
ashes;  in  which  animals  sink  deep.  ...  I  ascended  a 
mountain,  and  from  it  could  see  that  Bear  River  took  a  short 
turn  round  Sheep  Kock.  There  were,  in  the  plain,  many 
hundred  mounds  of  yellowish  stone,  with  a  crater  on  the  top. 
*brmed  of  the  deposits  of  the  impregnated  water. 


w<^ 


882 


B  ONNE  VILLETS  AD  VENTURES. 


Ill 


and  extravagant  in  their  commendations  of  "  the 
mountain  tap  ;  "  elevating  it  above  every  bever- 
age produced  from  hops  or  malt.  It  was  a  sin- 
gular and  fantastic  scene  ;  suited  to  a  region 
where  everything  is  strange  and  peculiar :  — 
These  groups  of  trappers,  and  hunters,  and  In- 
dians, with  their  wild  costumes,  aud  wilder  coun- 
tenances ;  their  boisterous  gayety,  and  reckless 
air ;  quaffing,  and  making  merry  round  these 
sparkling  fountains  ;  v/hile  beside  them  iay  their 
weapons,  ready  to  be  snatched  up  for  instant  ser- 
vice. Painters  are  fond  of  representing  banditti 
at  their  rude  and  picturesque  caiousals ;  but  here 
were  groups,  still  more  rude  and  picturesque ; 
and  it  needed  but  a  sudden  onset  of  Blackfeet, 
and  a  quick  transition  from  a  fantastic  revel  to  a 
furious  melee,  to  h.ivc  rendered  this  picture  of  a 
trapper's  life  complete. 

The  beer  frolic,  however,  passed  off  without 
any  untoward  circumstance ;  and,  unlike  most 
drinking  bouts,  left  neither  headache  nor  heart- 
ache behind.  Captain  Bonneville  now  directed 
his  cou'se  up  along  Bear  River  ;  amusing  him- 
self, occasionally,  with  hunting  the  buffi\lo,  with 
which  the  country  was  covered.  Sometimes, 
when  he  saw  a  huge  bull  taking  his  repose  on  a 
prairicj  he  would  steal  along  a  ravine,  until  close 
upon  him  ;  then  rouse  him  from  his  meditations 
with  a  pebble,  and  take  a  shot  at  him  as  he 
started  up.  Such  is  tlie  quickness  with  which 
this  animal  springs  upon  his  legs,  that  it  is  not 
easy  to  discover  the  muscular  process  by  which 
it  is  effected.     The  horse  rises  first  upon  his  fore 


i 


BUFFALO  BAITING. 


383 


legs ;  and  the  domestic  cow,  upon  her  hinder 
limbs  ;  but  the  buffalo  boutids  at  once  from  a 
couchant  to  an  erect  position,  with  a  celerity  that 
baffles  the  eye.  Though  fi'oni  his  bulk,  and  roll- 
ing gait,  he  does  not  appear  to  run  with  nuich 
swiftness  ;  yet,  it  takes  a  stanch  horse  to  over- 
take him,  when  at  full  speed  on  level  ground  ; 
and  a  buffido  cow  is  still  fleeter  in  her  motion. 

Among  the  Indians  and  half-breeds  of  the 
party,  were  several  admirable  horsemen  and  bold 
liunters  ;  who  amused  themselves  with  a  gro- 
tesque kind  of  buffalo  bait.  Whenever  they 
found  a  huge  bull  in  the  plains,  they  prepared  for 
tlunr  teasing  and  barbarous  sport.  Surrounding 
him  on  horseback,  they  would  discharge  their 
ari'ows  at  him  in  quick  succession,  goading  him 
to  make  an  attack ;  which,  with  a  dexterous 
movement  of  the  horse,  they  would  easily  avoid. 
In  this  way,  they  hovered  round  him,  feathering 
him  with  arrows,  as  he  reared  and  plunged  about, 
until  he  was  bristled  all  over  like  a  porcupine. 
When  they  perceived  in  him  signs  of  exhaustion, 
and  he  could  no  longer  be  provoked  to  make  bat- 
'e,  they  would  dismount  from  their  horses,  ap- 
proach him  in  the  rear,  and  seizing  him  by  the 
tail,  jerk  him  from  side  to  side,  and  drag  him 
backwards  ;  until  the  frantic  animal,  gathering 
fresh  strength  from  fury,  would  break  from  them, 
and  rush,  with  flashing  eyes  and  a  hoarse  bellow- 
ing, upon  any  enemy  in  sight ;  but  in  a  little 
while,  his  transient  excitement  at  an  end,  would 
pitch  headlong  on  the  ground,  and  expire.  The 
arrows  were   then  plucked  forth,  the  tongue  cut 


■  11 


r.: 


m 


* 


384 


BONNE  VILLE'S  AD  VENTURES. 


out  and  preserved  as  a  dainty,  and  the  carcass 
left  a  banquet  for  the  wolves. 

Pursuing  his  course  up  Bear  River,  Captain 
Bonneville  arrived,  on  the  13th  of  June,  at  the 
Little  Snake  Lake  ;  where  lie  encaniped  for  four 
or  five  days,  that  lie  might  examine  its  sliores 
and  outlets.  The  latter,  he  found  extremt'lv 
muddy,  and  so  surrounded  by  swamps  and  quaji:- 
mires,  that  he  was  obliged  to  construct  canoes  of 
rushes,  with  which  to  explore  then.  The  mouths 
of  all  the  streams  which  fall  into  this  lake  from 
the  west,  are  marshy  and  inconsiderable  ;  but  on 
the  east  side,  there  is  a  beautiful  beach,  broken, 
occasionally,  by  high  and  isolated  bluffs,  which 
advance  upon  the  lake,  and  heighten  the  charac- 
ter of  the  scenery.  The  water  is  very  shrilow, 
but  abounds  with  trout,  and  other  small  fish. 

Having  finished  his  survey  of  the  lake,  Cap- 
tain Bomieville  proceeded  on  his  journey,  until 
on  the  banks  of  the  Bear  River,  some  distance 
higher  up,  he  came  upon  the  party  which  he  had 
detached  a  year  before,  to  circumambulate  the 
Great  Salt  Lake,  and  jiscertain  its  extent,  and 
the  nature  of  its  shores.  They  had  been  en- 
camped here  about  twenty  days  ;  and  were 
greatly  rejoiced  at  meeting  once  more  with  their 
comrades,  from  whom  they  had  so  long  been  sep- 
arated. The  first  inquiry  of  Captain  Bonneville, 
wa?  about  the  result  of  their  journey,  and  the 
information  they  had  procured  as  to  the  Great 
Salt  Lake;  the  object  of  his  intense  curiosity 
and  ambition.  The  substance  of  their  report 
wiU  be  found  in  the  following  chapter.       ^ 


•i! 


he  carcass 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Plan  of  the  Salt  Lake  expedition.  —  Great  sandy  deserts. 
—  SiitTi  ings  from  thirst.  —  Ogden's  River.  —  Trails  and 
smoke  of  lurking  savages.  —  Tiiefts  at  night.  —  A  trapper's 
revenge.  —  Alarms  of  a  guilty  conscience.  —  A  murderous 
victor}'.  —  Californiaii  mountains.  —  Plains  along  the  Pa- 
cific.—  Arrival  at  Monterey  —  account  of  the  place  and 
neighborhood.  —  Lower  California  —  its  extent.  —  The  pen- 
insula --soil  —  climate  —  production.  —  Its  settlement  by 
the  Jesuits  —  their  sway  over  the  Indians  —  their  expul- 
sion. —  Kuins  of  a  Missionary  establishment.  —  Sublime 
scenery.  —  Upper  California.  —  Missions  —  their  [lower  and 
policy.  —  Resources  of  the  country.  —  Designs  of  foreigu 
nations. 


jjT  was  on  the  24th  of  July,  in  the  pre- 
cednig  year  (1833),  that  the  brigade  of 
forty  men  set  out  from  the  Green  River 
Valley,  to*  explore  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  They 
were  to  make  the  complete  circuit  of  it,  trapping 
on  all  the  streams  which  should  fall  in  their  way, 
and  to  keep  journals  and  make  charts,  calctilated 
to  imparl  a  knowledge  of  the  lake  and  the  sur- 
rounding country.  All  the  resources  of  Captain 
Bonneville  had  been  tasked  to  fit  out  this  favor- 
ite expedition.  The  country  lying  to  the  south- 
west of  the  mountains,  and  ranging  down  to  Cali- 
fornia, was  as  yet  almost  unknown  ;  being  out  of 
the  buffalo  range,  it  was  untraversed  by  the 
trapper  who  preferred  those  parts  of  the  wilder- 

2d 


w 


386 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


iiess  where  tlie  roamirjg  hords  of  that  species  of 
animal  gave  him  coiDparatively  an  ahundant  and 
hjxnrious  life.  Still  it  was  said  the  deer,  the  elk, 
and  the  bighorn  were  to  be  found  there,  so  that, 
with  a  little  diligence  and  economy,  there  was  no 
danger  of  lackiiig  food.  As  a  precaution,  how- 
ever, tiie  party  baited  on  Bear  River  and  huntetl 
for  a  few  days,  until  they  had  laid  in  a  supply  of 
dried  buffalo  meat  and  venison  ;  they  then  passed 
by  the  head  waters  of  the  Cassie  River,  and  soon 
found  themselves  launched  on  an  immense  sandy 
desert.  Southwardly,  on  their  left,  they  beheld 
the  Great  Salt  Lake,  spread  out  like  a  sea,  but 
they  found  no  stream  I'unning  into  it.  A  desert 
extended  around  them,  and  stretched  to  the  south- 
west, as  far  as  tlie  eye  could  reach,  rivalling  the 
deserts  of  Asia  and  Africa  in  sterility.  There 
was  neither  tree,  nor  herbage,  nor  spring,  nor 
pool,  nor  running  stream,  nothing  but  parched 
wastes  of  sand,  where  horse  and  rider  were  in 
danger  of  peiishing. 

Tiieir  sutFerings,  at  length,  became"  so  great 
tbat  they  abandoned  their  intended  course,  and 
made  towards  a  range  of  snowy  mountains,  bright- 
ening in  tiie  north,  where  they  hoped  to  find  water. 
After  a  time,  they  came  u[)on  a  smjiU  stream 
leading  directly  towards  these  mountains.  Hav- 
ing quenched  their  burning  thirst,  and  refreshed 
themselves  and  their  weary  horses  for  a  time, 
they  kept  along  this  stream,  which  gradually  in- 
creased in  size,  being  fed  by  numerous  brooks. 
After  approaching  the  mountains,  it  took  a  sweep 
towards   the   southwest,   and   the   travellers  stiU 


NTGriT    THEFTS. 


387 


kept  along  it,  trappinn;  beaver  as  tliey  went,  on 
the  flesh  of  which  they  subsisted  for  the  present, 
husbanding  their  dried  meat  for  future  necessi- 
ties. 

The  stream  on  which  they  liad  thus  fallen  is 
called  by  some,  Mary  River,  but  is  more  gene- 
ral Iv  known  as  Oixden's  River,  from  Mr.  Peter 
Og<len,  an  enterprising  and  intrepid  leader  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  Hrst  explored  it. 
Tlie  wild  and  half-desert  rejjion  tljrou<'li  which 
the  travellers  vrere  passing,  is  wandered  over  by 
hordes  of  Shoshokoes,  or  Root  Diggers,  the  for- 
lorn branch  of  the  Snake  tribe.  They  are  a 
shy  {)eople,  prone  to  keep  aloof  from  the  stranger. 
The  travellers  frequently  met  with  their  trails, 
and  saw  the  smoke  of  tiieir  fires  rising  in  various 
parts  of  the  vast  landscape,  so  that  they  knew 
there  were  great  numbers  in  the  neighborhood, 
but  scarcely  ever  were  any  of  them  to  be  met 
with. 

After  a  time,  they  began  to  have  vexatious 
proofs  that,  if  the  Shoshokoes  were  quiet  by  day, 
they  were  busy  at  night.  The  camp  was  dogged 
by  these  eavesdroppers ;  scarce  a  morning,  but 
various  articles  were  missing,  yet  nothing  could 
be  seen  of  the  marauders.  What  particularly  ex- 
asperated the  hunters,  was  to  have  their  traps 
stolen  from  the  streams.  One  morning,  a  trap- 
per of  a  violent  and  savage  character,  discovering 
that  his  traps  had  been  carried  off  in  the  night, 
took  a  horrid  oath  to  kill  the  Hrst  Indian  ne 
should  meet,  innocent  or  guilty.  As  he  was  re- 
turning with  his  comrades  to  camp,  he  beheld  two 


Ivi' 


388 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


unfortunate  Diggers,  seated  on  the  river  bank, 
fishing.  Advancing  upon  them,  he  levelled  hia 
rifle,  shot  one  upon  the  spot,  and  flung  his  bleed- 
ing body  into  the  stream.  The  other  Indian  fled, 
and  was  suffered  to  escape.  Such  is  the  indiffer- 
ence with  which  acts  of  violence  are  regarded  in 
the  wilderness,  and  such  the  immunity  an  armed 
ruflian  enjoys  beyond  the  barriers  of  the  laws, 
that  the  only  punisiunent  this  despcra-  i  met  with, 
was  a  rebuke  from  the  leader  of  the  party. 

The  trappers  now  left  the  scene  of  this  in- 
famous tragedy,  and  kept  on  westward,  down  the 
course  of  the  river,  whicii  wound  along  with  a 
range  of  mountains  on  the  right  hand,  and  a 
sandy,  but  somewhat  fertile  plain,  on  the  left.  As 
they  proceeded,  they  beheld  columns  of  smoke 
rising,  as  before,  in  various  directions,  which  their 
guilty  consciences  now  conver'yd  into  alarm  sig- 
nals, to  arouse  the  country,  and  collect  the  scat- 
tered bands  for  vengeance. 

After  a  time,  the  na  ives  began  to  make  their 
appearance,  and  sometimes  in  considerable  num- 
bers, but  always  pacific ;  the  trappers,  however, 
suspected  them  of  deep-laid  plans  to  diaw  them 
into  ambuscades;  to  crowd  into  and  get  posses- 
sion of  their  camp,  and  various  other  crafty  and 
daring  conspiracies,  which,  it  is  probable,  never 
entered  into  the  heads  of  the  poor  savages.  In 
fact,  they  are  a  simple,  timid,  inoffensive  race, 
unpracticed  in  warfare,  and  scarce  provided  with 
».ny  weapons,  excepting  for  the  chase.  Their 
lives  are  passed  in  the  great  sand  plains  and 
aloug  the  adjacent  rivers ;  they  subsist  sometimes 


J 


MASSACRIC   OF  SFIOSJIOROES. 


389 


on  fi3h,  at  other  times  on  roots  and  the  seeds  of 
a  plant,  called  the  cat's-tail.  They  are  of  the 
game  kind  of  people  that  Captain  Bonneville 
found  upon  Snake  River,  and  whou  he  found  so 
mild  and  inoffensive. 

The  trappers.  !}o\vever,  had  persuaded  them- 
selves that  they  were  making  their  way  through 
a  hostile  country,  and  that  implacable  foes  hung 
round  their  camp  or  beset  their  path,  watching 
for  an  opportunity  to  surprise  them.  At  length, 
one  day  they  came  to  the  banks  of  a  stream 
emptying  into  Ogden's  River,  which  they  were 
obliged  to  ford.  Here  a  great  number  of  Sho- 
shokoes  were  posted  on  the  opposite  bank.  Per- 
suaded they  were  there  with  hostile  intent,  they 
advanced  upon  them,  levelled  their  rifles,  and 
killed  twenty-five  of  them  upon  the  spot.  The 
rest  fled  to  a  short  distance,  then  halted  and 
turned  about,  howling  and  whining  like  wolves, 
and  uttering  the  most  piteous  wailings.  The 
trappers  chased  them  in  every  direction ;  the 
poor  wretches  made  no  defense,  but  fled  with 
terror  ;  neither  does  it  aj^pear  from  the  accounts 
of  the  boasted  victors,  that  a  weapon  had  been 
wielded  or  a  weapon  launched  by  the  Indians 
throughout  the  affair.  We  feel  perfectly  con- 
vinced that  the  poor  savages  had  no  hostile  in- 
tention, but  had  merely  gathered  together  through 
motives  of  curiosity,  as  others  of  theix'  tribe  had 
done  when  Captain  Bonneville  and  his  compan- 
ions passed  along  Snake  River. 

The  trappers  continued  down  Ogden's  River, 
antil  they  ascertained  that  it  lost  itself  in  a  great 


mm 


\ ' 


390 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Bwampy  lake,  to  which  there  was  no  apparent 
discharge.  They  then  strnck  directly  westward, 
across  the  great  chain  of  Californian  mountains 
intervening  between  these  interior  phiins  and  the 
eliores  of  the  Pacific. 

For  three  and  twenty  days  they  were  entangled 
among  these  mountains,  ti.')  peaks  and  ridges  of 
which  are  in  many  places  covered  with  perpetual 
snow.  Their  passes  and  defiles  present  the  wild- 
est scenery,  partaking  of  the  sublime  rather  than 
the  beautiful,  and  abounding  with  frightful  preci- 
f)ices.  The  sufferings  of  the  travellers  among 
these  savage  mountains  were  extreme  r  for  a  part 
of  the  time  they  were  nearly  starved  ;  at  length, 
they  made  their  way  through  them,  and  came 
down  upon  the  plains  of  New  California,  a  fertile 
region  extending  along  the  coast,  with  magnificent 
forests,  verdant  savannas,  and  prairies  that  look 
like  stately  parks.  Here  they  found  deer  and 
other  game  in  abundance,  and  indemnified  them- 
selves for  past  famine.  They  now  turned  to- 
wards the  south,  and  passing  numerous  small 
band'^  jf  natives,  posted  upon  various  streams, 
arrive  1  at  the  Spanish  village  and  post  of  Mon- 
terey, 

This  is  a  small  place,  containing  about  two 
hundred  houses,  situated  in  latitude  37°  north. 
It  has  a  capacious  bay,  with  indifferent  anchor- 
age. The  surrounding  country  is  extremely  fer- 
tile, especially  in  the  valleys ;  the  soil  is  richer, 
the  further  you  penetrate  into  the  interior,  and 
<he  climate  is  described  as  a  perpetual  sprmg. 
Ind-.ed,  all  California,  extending  along  the  Pacific 


PENINSULA    OF   CALIFORNIA, 


591 


I  1 


J 


Ocean  from  latitude  19°  30'  to  42*^  north,  is  rep* 
resented  as  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful 
regions  in  North  America. 

Lower  California,  in  length  about  seven  hun- 
dred miles,  forms  a  great  peninsula,  which 
crosses  the  tropics  and  terminates  in  the  torrid 
zone.  I^  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  the 
Gulf  of  California,  sometimes  called  the  Vermil- 
jon  Sea;  into  this  gulf  empties  the  Colorado  of 
the  West,  the  Seeds-ke-dee,  or  Green  xliver,  as 
it  is  also  sometimes  called.  The  peninsula  is 
traversed  by  stern  and  barren  mountains,  and  has 
many  sandy  plains,  where  the  only  sign  of  vege- 
tation is  the  cylindrical  cactus  growing  among 
the  clefts  of  the  rocks.  Wherever  there  is  water, 
however,  and  vegetable  mould,  the  ardent  nature 
of  the  climate  quickens  everytlii ng  into  aston- 
ishing fertility.  There  are  valleys  luxuriant  with 
the  rich  and  beautiful  productions  of  the  tropics. 
There  thj  sugar-cane  and  indigo  plant  attain  a 
perfection  unequalled  in  any  other  pai  L  of  North 
America.  There  flourish  the  olive,  the  fig,  the 
date,  the  orange,  the  citron,  the  pomegranate,  and 
other  fruits  belonging  to  the  voluptuous  climates 
of  the  south  ;  with  grapes  in  abundance,  that  yield 
a  generous  wine,  la  the  interior  are  salt  plains ; 
silver  mines  and  scanty  veins  of  ffold  are  said,  like- 
wise,  to  exist  ;  and  pearls  of  a  beautiful  water 
are  to  be  fished  upon  the  coast.  ^ 

The  peninsula  of  California  was  settled  in 
1698.  by  the  Jesuits,  who,  certainly,  as  far  as 
the  natives  were  concerned,  have  generally 
proved  the  most  beneficent  of  colonists.     In  the 


w 


wu 


392 


B ONNE VIL LE' S  AD VEN T URES. 


present  insttiiice,  they  guiiKKl  aiul  maintained  a 
footing  in  the  country  witliout  tlie  aid  of  military 
force,  but  solely  by  religious  influence.  T'»'^' 
formed  a  treaty,  and  enter.;d  into  the  moei 
cable  relations  with  the  natives,  then  numbering 
from  twenty-five  to  thirty  thousand  gouls,  and 
gained  a  hold  upon  their  affections,  and  a  coiif 
trol  over  their  minds,  that  effected  a  complete 
change  in  their  condition.  They  built  eleven  mis- 
sionary establishments  in  the  various  valleys  of 
the  peninsula,  which  formed  rallying  places  for 
the  surrounding  savages,  where  they  gathered  to- 
gether as  sheep  into  the  fold,  and  surrendered 
themselves  iwA  their  consciences  into  the  hands 
of  these  spiritual  pastors.  Nothing,  we  are  told, 
could  exceed  the  implicit  and  affectionatt;  devotion 
of  the  Indian  converts  to  the  Jesuit  fathers,  and 
the  Catholic  faith  was  disseminated  widely 
through  the  wilderness. 

The  growing  power  and  influence  of  the  Jes- 
uits in  the  New  World,  at  length  excited  the 
jealousy  of  the  Spanish  government,  and  they 
were  banished  from  the  colonies.  The  governor, 
who  arrived  at  California  to  expel  them,  and  to 
take  charge  of  the  country,  expected  to  find  a 
rich  and  powerful  fraternity,  with  immense  treas- 
ures hoarded  in  their  missions,  and  an  army  of 
Indians  ready  to  defend  them.  On  the  contrary, 
he  beheld  a  few  venerable  silver-haired  priests 
coming  humbly  forward  to  meet  him,  followed  by 
a  throng  of  weeping,  but  submissive  natives. 
The  heart  of  the  governor,  it  is  said,  was  so 
vouched  by  this  unexpected  sight,  that  he  shed 


DESERTICD  MISSION-HOUSE, 


899 


tears  ;  but  lie  hud  to  execute  liis  orders.  The 
Jesuits  were  accompanied  to  tlie  phice  of  their 
embarkation  by  their  simple  and  atlectionate  par- 
ishioners, who  took  leave  of  them  with  teara 
and  sobs.  Many  of  the  latter  abandoned  their 
hereditary  abodes,  and  wandered  off  to  join  their 
southern  brethren,  so  that  but  a  remnant  re- 
mained i/i  the  peninsula.  The  Franciscans  im- 
mediately succeeded  the  Jesuits,  and  subsequently 
the  Dominicans ;  but  the  latter  managed  their 
affairs  ill.  But  two  of  the  missionary  establish- 
ments are  at  present  occupied  by  priests ;  the  rest 
are  all  in  ruins,  excepting  one,  which  remains  a 
monument  of  the  former  power  and  prosperity 
of  the  order.  This  is  a  noble  editice,  once  the 
seat  of  the  chief  of  the  resident  Jesuits.  It  is 
situated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  about  half  way 
between  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  broad 
ocean,  the  peninsula  being  here  about  sixty  miles 
wide.  The  edifice  is  of  hewn  stone,  one  story 
high,  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  front,  and 
about  fifty-five  feet  deep.  The  walls  are  six  feet 
thick,  and  sixteen  feet  high,  with  a  vaulted  roof 
of  stone,  about  two  feet  and  a  half  in  thickness. 
It  is  now  abandoned  and  desolate  ;  the  beautiful 
valley  is  without  an  inhabitant — not  a  human 
being  resides  within  thirty  miles  of  the  place ! 

In  approaching  this  deserted  mission  house 
from  the  south,  the  traveller  passes  over  the 
mountain  of  San  Juan,  supposed  to  be  the  high- 
est peak  in  the  Californias.  From  this  lofty 
eminence,  a  vast  and  magnificent  prospect  unfolds 
Itself;    the  great  Gulf  of   California,    with    the 


i\ 


m^ 


894 


B ONNE  VILLUS  A D  VEN 7  UliES, 


'iiiii> 


riark  Mue  sea  boyond,  studdt'd  with  Islands  ;  and 
ill  another  direction,  the  iininense  lava  jdain  of 
San  Gabriel.  Tiie  splendor  of  the  climate  <^ivcs 
an  Italian  eircct  to  the  immense  pi'ospect.  The 
sky  is  of  a  dee{)  blue  color,  and  the  sunsets  are 
often  niai»ni(icent  bc^yond  description.  Such  is  a 
blight  and  imperfect  sketch  of  this  remarkable 
peninsula. 

Upper  California  (extends  from  latitude  31" 
10'  to  42°  on  the  Pacific,  and  inland,  to  the 
great  chain  of  snow-cajjped  mountains  which 
(livi<le  it  from  the  sand  plains  of  the  interior. 
There  are  about  tvvcnty-one  missions  in  thi>> 
province,  most  of  which  were  established  about 
lifty  years  since,  and  are  generally  under  the  care 
of  the  Franciscans.  These  exert  a  protecthig 
sway  over  about  thirt3'five  thousand  Indian  con- 
verts, who  reside  on  the  lands  around  the  mission 
houses.  Each  of  these  houses  has  fifteen  miles 
square  of  land  allotted  to  it,  subdivided  into 
small  lots,  proportioned  to  the  number  of  Indian 
converts  attached  to  the  mission.  Some  are 
inclosed  with  high  walls ;  but  in  general  they 
are  open  hamlets,  composed  of  rows  of  huts, 
built  of  sunburnt  bricks  ;  in  some  instances 
whitewashed  and  roofed  with  tiles.  Many  of 
them  are  far  in  the  interior,  beyond  the  reach  of 
all  military  protection,  and  dependent  entirely  on 
the  good-will  of  the  natives,  which  never  fails 
them.  They  have  made  considerable  progress  in 
teaching  the  Indians  the  useful  arts.  There  are 
native  tanners,  shoemakers,  weavers,  blacksmiths, 
stonecutters,  and  other  artificers  attached  to  each 


!l  « 


"^Wfl^ 


riiOI)UCt\    CATTLE,  POUTS. 


895 


establishment.  Others  are  tauijlit  huabaiidrj, 
and  the  rearhig  of  ciittle  and  horses ;  while  tho 
females  Ciird  and  spin  wool,  weave,  and  perform 
the  other  duties  allotted  to  their  sex  in  eivilized 
life.  No  soeial  intercourse  is  allowed  between 
the  unmarried  of  the  opposite  sexes  after  work- 
inj;  hours  ;  and  at  night  they  arc  locked  up  in 
separate  apartments,  and  the  keys  delivered  to 
the  priests. 

The  produce  of  the  lands,  and  all  the  profits 
arising  from  sales,  are  entirely  at  the  disposal  of 
the  priests ;  whatever  is  not  re(piired  for  tho 
support  of  the  missions,  goes  to  augment  a  fund 
which  is  under  their  control.  Hides  and  tallow 
constitute  the  principal  riches  of  the  missions, 
and,  indeed,  the  main  commerce  of  the  country. 
Grain  might  be  produced  to  an  unlimited  extent 
at  tho  establishments,  were  there  a  sufficifMit 
market  for  it.  Olives  and  grapes  are  also  reared 
at  the  missions. 

Horses  and  horned  cattle  abound  throughout 
all  this  region  ;  the  former  may  be  })urchased  at 
from  three  to  five  dollars,  but  they  are  of  an 
inferior  breed.  Mules,  which  are  here  of  a  large 
size  and  of  valuable  qualities,  cost  from  seven  to 
ten  dollars. 

There  are  several  excellent  ports  along  this 
coast.  San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey,  the 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  the  northern  port  of 
Bondage  ;  all  afford  anchorage  for  ships  of  the 
largest  class.  The  port  of  San  Francisco  is  too 
well  known  to  require  much  notice  in  this  place 
The  entrance  from  the  sea  is  sixty-seven  fathoms 


It 


il 


396 


B  ONNEVILLE'S  AD  VENTVREa. 


deep,  and  within,  whole  navies  might  ride  with 
perfect  safety.  Two  large  rivers,  which  take 
their  rise  in  mountains  two  or  three  hundred 
miles  to  the  east,  and  run  through  a  countiy 
unsurpassed  for  soil  and  climate,  empty  them- 
selves into  the  harbor.  The  country  around 
affords  admirable  timber  for  ship-building.  In  a 
word,  this  favored  port  combines  advantages 
which  not  only  fit  it  for  a  grand  naval  depot,  but 
almost  render  it  capable  of  being  made  the  dom- 
uiant  military  post  of  these  seas. 

Such  is  a  feeble  o  itline  of  the  Californian 
coast  and  country,  the  value  of  which  is  more 
and  m^;e  attracting  the  attention  of  naval  powers. 
The  Russians  have  always  a  ship  of  war  upon 
this  station,  and  have  already  encroached  upon 
the  Californian  boundaries,  by  taking  possession 
of  the  port  of  Bundago,  and  fortifying  it  with 
several  guns.  Recent  surveys  have  likewise 
been  made,  l)oth  by  the  Russians  and  the  En- 
glish, and  we  have  little  doubt,  that,  at  no  very 
distant  day,  this  neglected,  and,  until  recently, 
almost  unknown  region,  will  be  found  to  possess 
sources  of  wealth  sufficient  to  sustahi  a  powerful 
and  prosperous  empire.  Its  inhabitants,  them- 
selves, are  but  little  aware  of  its  real  riches ; 
they  have  not  enterprise  sufficient  to  acquaint 
themselves  with  a  vast  interior  that  lies  almost  a 
terra  incognita  ;  nor  have  they  the  skill  and  in- 
dustry to  cultivate  properly  the  fertile  tracts 
along  the  coast ;  nor  to  piosecute  that  foreign 
commerce  wli'ch  brings  all  the  resources  of  a 
country  into  profitable  action. 


";..^A 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 


Gay  life  at  Monterey.  —  Mexican  horsemen.  —  A  bold  dra- 
goon. —  Use  of  the  lasso.  —  Vaqiieros.  —  Noosing^  a  bear.  — 
Fight  between  a  bull  and  a  bear.  —  Departure  from  Mon« 
terey. — Indian  horse-stealers.  —  Outrages  committed  by 
the  travellers.  —  Indignation  of  Captain  Bonneville. 

friE  wandering  band  of  trappers  were 
well  received  at  Monterey :  the  inliabi- 
tants  were  desirous  of  retaining  them 
among  them,  and  offered  extravagant  wages  to 
such  as  were  acquainted  with  any  mechanic  art. 
When  they  went  into  the  country,  too,  they 
were  kindly  treated  by  the  priests  at  the  mission  ; 
who  are  always  hospitable  to  strangers,  whatever 
may  be  their  rank  or  religion.  They  had  no 
lack  of  provisions  ;  being  permitted  to  kill  as 
many  as  they  pleased  of  the  vast  herds  of  cattle 
that  gr^ze  the  countiy,  on  condition,  merely,  of 
rendenng  the  hides  to  the  owners.  They  at- 
tended bull-fights  and  horse-races  ;  forgot  all  the 
purposes  of  their  expedition  ;  squandered  away, 
^•eely,  the  property  that  did  not  belong  to  them  ; 
t.nd,  in  a  word,  reveled  in  a  perfect  fool's  para- 
dise. 

What  especially  delighted  them,  was  the  eques- 
trian skill  of  the  Californians.  Tlie  vast  num- 
oer  and  the  cheapness  of  the  horses  in  tliis  coud 


i       1 


m 


m 


4.  II 


■;■  li 

f  li 


Wi 


398 


B ONNE VILLETS  aD  VENTURES. 


try,  makes  every  one  a  cavalier.  The  Mexicans 
and  half-breeds  of  California,  spend  the  greater 
part  of  Uieir  time  in  the  saddle.  They  are 
fearless  riders  ;  and  their  daring  feats  upon  un- 
broken colts  and  wild  horses,  astonished  our  trap- 
pers ;  though  accustomed  to  the  bold  riders  of 
the  prairies. 

A  Mexican  horseman   has  much  resemblance, 
in  many  points,  to  the  equestrians  of  Old  Spain  ; 
and  especially  to    the  vainglorious  Caballero  of 
Andalusia.     A    Mexican    dragoon,  for   instance, 
is    represented    as    arrayed     in    a    round    blue 
jacket,    with   red   cuffs    and   collar ;    blue    vel- 
vet breeches,  unbuttoned  at  the  knees  to  show 
his    white    stockings ;    bottinas  of  deer-skin ;     9 
round-crowned  Andalusian  hat,  and  his  hair  cued 
On  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  he  carries  balanced 
a   long  musket,    with   fox-skin   round   the  lock 
He  is  cased  in  a  cuirass  of  double-fold  deer-skin 
and  carries  a  bull's  hide  shield  ;  he  is  forked  in 
a  Moorish  saddle,  high  before  and  behind  ;  his 
feet  are    thrust    into    wooden    box    stirrups,  of 
Moorish  fiishion,  and  a  tremendous  pair  of  iron 
spurs,  fastened    by  chains,  jingle    at    his    heels. 
Thus  equipped,  and  suitably  mounted,  he  consid- 
ers himself  the  glory  of  California,  and  the  ter- 
ror of  the  universe. 

The  Californian  horsemen  seldom  ride  out 
without  the  lasso  ;  that  is  to  say,  a  long  coil  of 
cord,  with  a  slip  noose  ;  with  which  they  are 
expert,  almost  to  a  miracle.  The  lasso,  now  al- 
most entirely  confined  to  Spanish  America,  is 
eaid  to  be  of  great  antiquity  ;  and  to  have  come, 


m 


BULL  AND  BEAR  FIGHT. 


399 


h   America,  is 
to  have  come, 


originally,  from  the  East.  It  was  used,  we  are 
told,  by  a  pastoral  people  of  Persian  descent ; 
of  whom  eight  thousand  accompanied  the  army 
of  Xerxes.  By  the  Spanish  Americans,  it  is 
used  for  a  variety  of  purposes ;  and  among 
others,  for  hauling  wood.  Without  dismounting, 
tliey  cast  the  noose  round  a  log,  and  thus  drag 
it  to  their  houses.  The  vaqueros,  or  Indian 
cattle  drivers,  have  also  learnt  the  use  of  the 
lasso  from  the  Spaniards  ;  and  employ  it  to  catch 
the  half-wild  cattle,  by  throwing  it  round  their 
horns. 

The  lasso  is  also  of  great  use  in  furnishing  the 
public  with  a  favorite,  though  barbarous  sport ; 
the  combat  between  a  bear  and  a  wild  bull.  For 
this  purpose,  three  or  four  horsemen  sally  forth 
to  some  wood,  frequented  by  bears,  and,  deposit- 
ing the  carcass  of  a  bullock,  hide  themselves 
in  the  vicinity.  The  bears  are  soon  attracted 
by  the  bait.  As  soon  as  one,  fit  for  their  purpose, 
makes  his  a})pearance,  tliey  run  out,  and  with 
the  lasso,  dexterously  noose  him  by  either  leg. 
After  dragging  him  at  full  speed  until  he  is  fa- 
tigued, they  secure  him  more  efTectually ;  and 
tyhig  him  on  the  carcass  of  the  bullock,  draw 
him  in  triumph  to  the  scene  of  action.  By  this 
time,  he  is  exasperated  to  such  frenzy,  that  they 
are  sometimes  obliged  to  throw  cold  water  on 
him,  to  moderate  his  fury  ;  and  dangerous  would 
It  be,  for  horse  or  rider,  were  he,  while  in  thia 
oaroxysm,  to  break  his  bonds. 

A  wild  bull,  of  the  fiercest  kind,  which  haa 
been  caught  and  exasperated  in  the  same  man 


400 


B ON NEVr LIE'S  ADVENTURES. 


ti 


i\    •' 


ner,  is  now  produced,  and  both  animals  are 
turned  loose  in  the  arena  of  a  small  amphithea- 
tre. The  mortal  flight  begins  instantly  ;  and 
always,  at  first,  to  the  disadvantage  of  Bruin  ; 
fiitigued,  as  he  is,  by  his  previous  rough  riding. 
Roused,  at  length,  by  the  repeated  goring  of  the 
bull,  he  seizes  his  muzzle  with  his  sharp  claws, 
and  clinging  to  this  most  sensitive  part,  causes 
him  to  bellow  with  rage  and  agony.  In  his 
heat  and  fury,  the  bull  lolls  out  his  tongue;  this 
is  instantly  clutched  by  the  bear ;  with  a  des- 
perate effort  he  overturns  his  huge  antagonist; 
and  then  dispatches  him  without  difficulty.     * 

Beside  this  diversion,  the  travellers  were  like- 
wise regaled  with  bull-fights,  in  tlie  genuine 
style  of  Old  Spain  ;  the  Californians  being  con- 
sidered the  best  bull-fighters  in  the  Mexican  do- 
minions. 

After  a  considerable  sojourn  at  Monterey, 
spent  in  these  very  edifying,  but  not  very  prof- 
itable amusements,  the  leader  of  this  vagabond 
party  set  out  with  his  comrades,  on  his  return 
journey.  Instead  of  retrachig  their  steps  through 
the  mountains,  they  passed  round  their  southern 
extremity,  and,  crossing  a  range  of  low  hills, 
found  themselves  :*n  the  sandy  plains  south  of 
Ogden's  River  ;  in  traversing  which,  they  again 
suffered,  grievously,  for  want  of  water. 

In  the  course  of  their  journey,  they  encoun- 
tered a  party  of  Mexicans  in  pursuit  of  a  gang 
of  natives,  who  had  been  stealing  horses.  The 
savages  of  this  part  of  California  are  represented 
as  extremely  poor,  and  armed  oidy  with  stone- 


ES, 


INDIAN  HORSE  STEALERS. 


401 


mimals   are 
amphithea- 
antly  ;    and 
!  of  Bruin  ; 
)ngli  riding, 
oring  of  the 
;harp  claws, 
part,  causes 
,nv.     In  his 
X)ugue;  this 
with  a  des- 
antagonist ; 

culty. 

s  were  like- 
tlie    genuine 
IS  being  con- 
Mexican  do- 
lt  Monterey, 
)t  very  prof- 
lis  vagabond 
(U  his  return 
teps  through 
leir  southern 
of  low    hills, 
lins  south  of 
h,  they  again 
er. 

they  encoun- 
lit  of  a  gang 
horses.     The 
e  represented 
with  stone- 


pointed  arrows  ;  it  being  the  wise  policy  of  the 
Spaniards  not  to  furnish  them  with  fire-arms. 
As  they  find  it  difficult,  with  their  blunt  shafts, 
to  kill  the  wild  game  of  the  mountains,  they 
occasionally  supply  themselves  with  food,  by 
entrapping  the  Spanish  horses.  Drivuig  them 
stealtliily  into  fiistnesses  and  ravines,  they  slaugh- 
ter them  without  difficulty,  and  dry  their  flesh  for 
provisions.  Some  they  carry  off,  to  trade  with 
distant  tribes ;  and  in  this  way,  the  Spanish 
horses  pass  from  hand  to  hand  among  the  Indi- 
ans, until  they  even  find  their  way  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

The  Mexicans  are  continually  on  the  alert,  to 
intercept  these  marauders ;  but  the  Indians  aro 
apt  to  outwit  them,  and  force  them  to  make  long 
and  wild  expeditions  in  pursuit  of  their  stolen 
horses. 

Two  of  the  Mexican  party  just  mentioned, 
joined  the  band  of  trappers,  and  proved  them- 
selves worthy  companions.  In  the  course  of 
their  journey  through  the  country  frequented 
by  the  poor  Root  Diggers,  there  seems  to  have 
been  an  emulation  between  them,  which  could 
inflict  the  greatest  outrages  upon  the  natives. 
The  trappers  still  considered  them  in  the  light 
of  dangerous  foes ;  and  the  Mexicans,  very  prob- 
ably, charged  them  with  the  sin  of  horse-stealing ; 
we  have  no  other  mode  of  accounting  for  the  in- 
famous barbarities  of  which,  according  to  their 
own  story,  they  were  guilty ;  hunting  the  poor 
Indians  like  wild  beasts,  and  killing  them  without 

mercy.     The   Mexicans    excelled  at  this  savage 

26 


h 


402 


B ONNE  VI LIE'S  AD  VEN  TVJiES. 


1 


Bport;  chasing  t'leir  unfortunate  victims  at  fuH 
speed  ;  noosing  thera  round  the  neck  with  their 
lassos,  and  then  draf^i'Insr  them  to  death ! 

Such  are  the  scanty  details  of  this  most  dis- 
graceful expedition ;  at  least,  such  are  all  that 
Captain  Bonneville  had  the  patience  to  collect; 
for  he  was  so  deeply  grieved  by  the  failure  of  his 
plans,  and  so  indignant  at  the  atrjcities  related  to 
him,  that  he  turned,  with  disgust  and  horror,  from 
the  narrators.  Had  he  exerted  a  little  of  the 
Lynch  law  of  the  wilderness,  and  hanged  those 
dexterous  horsemen  in  their  own  lassos,  it  would 
but  have  been  a  well-merited  and  salutary  act  of 
retributive  justice.  The  failure  of  this  expedition 
was  a  blow  to  his  pride,  and  a  still  greater  blow 
to  his  purse.  The  Great  Salt  Lake  still  remained 
unexplored ;  at  the  same  time,  the  means  which 
had  been  furnished  so  liberally  to  fit  out  this 
favorite  expedition,  had  all  been  squandered  at 
Monterey ;  and  the  peltries,  also,  which  had  been 
collected  on  the  way.  He  would  have  but  scanty 
returns,  therefore,  to  make  this  year,  to  his  as- 
Bociates  in  the  United  States ;  and  there  was 
great  danger  of  their  becoming  disheartened,  and 
•bandonmg  the  enterprise. 


ri 


3. 

ins  at  fuU 
with  their 

h! 

i  most  cVis- 
re   all   that 
to  collect; 
lilure  of  his 
>s  related  to 
iiorror,  from 
Uttle  of  the 
anged  those 
30S,  it  would 
[utary  act  of 
lis  expedition 
greater  blow 
^till  remained 
means  which 
fit   out  this 
quandered  at 
.ch  had  been 
ve  but  scanty 
|ar,  to  his  as- 
d    there    was 
leartened,  anct 


CHAPTER  XL. 

Travellers'  tales.  —  Indian  lurkcrs.  —  Prognostics  of  Buck- 
eye. —  Signs  and  portents.  —  The  medicine  wolf.  —  An 
alarm.  —  An  ambush.  —  I'he  captured  provant.  —  Triumph 
of  Buckeye.  —  Arrival  of  supplies.  —  Grand  carouse.  — 
Arrangements  for  the  year.  —  Mr.  Wyeth  and  his  new- 
levied  bund. 

HE  liorror  and  indignation  felt  by  Ctpt- 
ain  Bonneville  at  the  excesses  o(  the 
Californian  adventurers,  were  not  par- 
ticipated by  his  men ;  on  the  contrary,  the  events 
of  that  expedition  were  fiivorite  themes  in  the 
camp.  The  heroes  of  Monterey  bore  the  pahn 
in  all  the  gossiphjgs  among  the  hunters.  Their 
glowing  descriptions  of  Spanish  bear-baits  and 
bull-fights  especially,  were  listened  to  with  intense 
delight;  and  had  another  expedition  to  Jalifornia 
been  proposed,  the  ditliculty  would  have  been,  to 
restrain  a  general  eagerness  to  volunteer. 

The  captain  had  not  been  long  at  the  rendez- 
vous when  he  perceived,  by  various  signs,  that 
Indians  were  lurking  in  the  neighborhood.  It 
was  evident  that  the  Blackfoot  band,  which  he 
had  seen  when  on  his  march,  had  dogged  his  party, 
and  were  intent  on  mischief.  He  endeavored  to 
keep  his  camp  on  the  alert ;  but  it  is  as  difficult  to 
maintain  discipline  among  ti'appers  at  a  rendez- 
vous, as  among  sailors  when  in  porL 


40  i 


B ONNE VJLLLTS  AD  VENTURES. 


m> 


^11 


'::!■ 


Buckeye,  the  Delaware  Indian,  was  scanvlalized 
at  tliis  heedlessness  of  the  hunters  when  an  enemy 
was  at  hand,  and  was  continually  preaching  up 
caution.  He  was  a  little  prone  to  })lay  the  prophet, 
and  to  deal  in  signs  and  portents,  which  oc- 
cjisionally  excited  the  merriment  of  his  white  com- 
rades. He  was  a  great  dreamer,  and  believed  in 
charms  and  talismans,  or  medicines,  and  could 
^"oretell  the  approach  of  strangers  by  the  howling 
or  barking  of  the  small  prairie  wolf.  This  animal, 
being  driven  by  the  larger  wolves  from  the  car- 
casses left  on  the  hunting  grounds  by  the  hunters, 
follows  the  trail  of  the  fresh  meat  carried  to  the 
camp.  Here  the  smell  of  the  roast  and  broiled, 
mingling  with  every  breeze,  keeps  them  hovering 
about  the  neighborhood,  scenting  every  blast, 
turning  up  their  noses  like  hungry  hounds,  and 
testifying  their  pinching  hunger  by  long  whining 
howls,  and  impatient  barkings.  These  are  inter- 
preted by  the  superstitious  Indians  into  warnings 
that  strangers  are  at  hand ;  and  one  accidental 
coincidence,  like  the  chance  fulfillment  of  an  al- 
manac prediction,  is  sufficient  to  cover  a  thousand 
failures.  This  little,  whining,  feast-smelling  an- 
imal is,  therefore,  called  among  Indians  the  "  med- 
icine wolf;"  and  such  was  one  of  Buckeye's  in- 
fallible oracles. 

One  morning  early,  the  soothsaying  Delaware 
appeared  with  a  gloomy  countenance.  His  mind 
was  full  of  dismal  presentiments,  whether  from 
mysterious  dreams,  or  the  intimations  of  the  medi- 
cine wolf,  does  not  appear.  "  Danger,"  he  said, 
^*  was  lurking  in  their  path,  and  there  would  be 


h. 


SURPRISED  BY  DLACKFEET. 


405 


some  fiohtinnr  before  sunset."  He  was  bjintered 
for  his  prophecy,  wliich  was  attributed  to  his  havin<^ 
bupped  too  heartily,  and  been  visited  by  bad 
dreams.  In  the  course  of  the  morning,  a  party 
of  hunters  set  out  in  pursuit  of  buffalo,  takini; 
with  them  a  mule,  to  bring  home  the  meat  they 
should  procure.  They  had  been  some  few  hours 
absent,  when  they  came  clattering  at  full  speed 
into  camp,  giving  the  war-cry  of  Blackfeet !  Black- 
feet!  Every  one  seized  his  weapon,  and  ran  to 
learn  the  cause  of  the  alarm.  It  appeared  that 
the  hunters,  as  they  were  returning  leisurely,  lead- 
ing their  mule,  well  laden  with  prime  pieces  of 
buffalo  mert,  passed  close  by  a  small  stream  over- 
hung with  trees,  about  two  miles  from  the  camp. 
Suddenly,  a  party  of  BlacKfeet,  who  lay  in  ambush 
among  the  thickets,  sprang  up  with  a  fearful  yell 
and  discharfjed  a  vollev  at  the  hunters.  The 
latter  immediately  threw  themselves  flat  on  their 
horses,  put  them  to  their  speed,  and  never  paused 
to  look  behind,  until  they  found  themselves  in 
camp.  Fortunately,  they  had  escaped  without  a 
wound  ;  but  the  mule,  with  all  the  "  provant,"  had 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy.  This  was  a 
loss,  as  well  as  an  insult,  not  to  be  borne.  Every 
man  sprang  to  horse,  and  with  rifle  in  hand,  gal- 
loped off  to  punish  the  Blackfeet,  and  rescue  the 
buffalo  beef.  They  came  too  late ;  the  marauders 
were  off*,  and  all  that  they  found  of  their  mule 
were  the  dents  of  his  hoofs,  as  he  had  been  con 
veyed  off*  at  a  round  trot,  bearing  his  savory  cargo 
to  the  hills,  to  furnish  the  scampering  savages 
Arith  a  basquet  of  roast  meat  at  the  expense  of 
the  white  men. 


40G 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


Itii 


ii 


1! 


The  party  returned  to  camp,  balked  of  tlieir 
revenjjj3,  but  still  more  grievously  balked  of  their 
Kupper.  Buckeye,  the  Delaware,  sat  smoking  by 
his  fire,  perfectly  composed.  As  the  hunters  re- 
hited  the  })articulars  of  the  attack,  he  listened  in 
silence,  with  unruflled  countenance,  then  pointing 
to  tlie  west,  "  Tlie  sun  has  not  yet  set,"  said  he ; 
"  Buckeye  did  not  dream  like  a  fool ! " 

All  present  now  recollected  the  prediction  of 
the  Indian  at  daybreak,  and  were  struck  with 
what  appeared  to  be  its  fulfillment.  They  called 
to  mind,  also,  a  long  catalogue  of  foregone  pre- 
sentiments and  predictions  made  at  various  times 
by  the  Delaware,  and,  in  their  superstitious  cre- 
dulity, began  to  consider  him  a  veritable  seer ; 
without  thinking  how  natural  it  was  to  predict 
danger,  and  how  likely  to  have  the  prediction 
verified  in  the  presentinstance,  when  various  signs 
gave  evidence  of  a  lurking  foe. 

The  various  bands  of  Captain  Bonneville's 
company  had  now  oeen  assembled  for  some  time 
at  the  rendezvous ;  they  had  had  their  fill  of 
feasting,  and  frolicking,  and  all  the  species  of 
wild  and  often  uncouth  merry-making,  which 
invariably  take  place  on  these  occasions.  Their 
horses,  as  well  as  themselves,  had  recovered  from 
past  famine  and  fatigue,  and  were  again  fit  for 
active  service;  and  an  impatience  began  to 
manifest  itself  among  the  men  once  more  to  take 
the  field,  and  set  off  on  some  wandering  expe- 
dition. 

At  this  juncture,  Mr.  Cerrd  arrived  at  the 
rendezvous  at  the  head  of  a  supply  party,  bring- 


Wi\ 


ARRIVAL   OF  SUPPLIES. 


407 


rarious  signs 


h\g  goods  and  eqnipments  from  tlio  States.  This 
a(;tive  leader,  it  will  be  recollected,  had  embarked 
the  year  previously  in  skin-boats  on  the  Bighorii; 
freighted  with  the  year's  collection  of  peltries. 
lie  had  met  VNith  misfortunes  in  the  course  of  his 
voyage :  one  of  his  frail  barks  being  upset,  and 
part  of  the  furs  lost  or  damaged. 

The  arrival  of  the  supplies  gave  the  regular 
fniish  to  the  annual  revel.  A  grand  outbreak  of 
wild  debauch  ensued  amonij  the  mountaineers  ; 
drinking,  dancing,  swaggering,  gambling,  quarrell- 
ing, and  fighting.  Alcohol,  which,  from  its  portable 
qualities,  containing  the  greatest  quantity  of  fiery 
spirit  in  the  smallest  compass,  is  the  only  liquor 
carried  across  the  mountains,  is  the  inflammatory 
beverage  at  these  carousals,  and  is  dealt  out  to  the 
trappers  at  four  dollars  a  pint.  When  inflamed 
by  this  fiery  beverage,  they  cut  all  kinds  of  mad 
pranks  and  gambols,  and  sometimes  burn  all 
their   clothes   in    their   drunken    bravadoes.     A 


camp. 


recovermg 


from    one    of    these    riotous 


revels,  presents  a  serio-comic  spectacle ;  black 
eyes,  broken  heads,  lacklustre  visages.  Many  of 
the  trappers  have  squandered  in  one  drunken 
frolic  the  hard-earned  wages  of  a  year ;  some 
have  run  in  debt,  and  must  toil  on  to  pay  for 
past  pleasure.  All  are  sated  with  this  deep 
draught  of  pleasure,  and  eager  to  commence 
another  trapping  campaign ;  for  hardship  and 
hard  work,  spiced  with  the  stimulants  of  wild 
adventure,  and  topped  off  with  an  annual  frantic 
earousal,  is  the  lot  of  the  restless  trapper. 

The  captain  now  made  his  arrangements  for 


■  II 


f 


f\ 


^ 


(lf# 


^w 


408 


nONNE  VI LIE'S  A D VENTURES. 


the  current  year.  Cerre  and  Walker,  with  a 
number  of  men  who  had  been  :o  California,  were 
to  proceed  to  St.  Louis  with  the  packa<^08  of  furs 
collected  during  the  past  year.  Another  party, 
headed  by  a  leader  named  Montero,  was  to 
])roceed  to  the  Crow  country,  trap  upon  its 
various  streams,  and  among  the  Black  Hills,  and 
thence  to  proceed  to  the  Arkansas,  where  he  was 
to  go  into  winter  quarters. 

The  captain  marked  out  for  himself  a  widely 
different  course.  He  hitended  to  make  another 
expedition,  with  twenty-three  men,  to  the  lower 
part  of  the  Columbia  River,  and  to  proceed  to 
the  valley  of  the  Multnomah ;  after  wintering  in 
those  parts,  and  establishing  a  trade  with  those 
tribes,  among  whom  he  had  sojourned  on  his  lirst 
visit,  he  would  return  in  the  spring,  cross  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  join  Montero  and  his 
party  m  the  month  of  July,  at  the  rendezvous  of 
the  Arkansas ;  where  he  expected  to  receive  his 
annual  supplies  from  the  States. 

If  the  reader  will  cast  his  eye  upon  a  map,  he 
may  form  an  idea  of  the  contempt  for  distance 
wliich  a  man  acquires  in  this  vast  wilderness,  by 
noticing  the  extent  of  country  comprised  in  these 
projected  wanderings.  Just  as  the  different 
parties  were  about  to  set  out  on  the  3d  of  July, 
on  their  opposite  routes,  Captain  Bonneville 
received  intelligence  that  Wyeth,  the  indefati- 
gable leader  of  the  salmon-fishing  enterprise,  who 
had  parted  with  him  about  u  year  previously  on 
the  banks  of  the  Bighorn,  to  descend  that  wild 
river  in  a  bull  boat,  was  near  at  hand,  with  a 


EXPEDITION    OF    WYETH. 


40& 


now  IcvicmI  hjind  of  hunters  and  trappers,  and 
was  on  his  way  once  more  to  the  banks  of  the 
Cohnnhia. 

As  we  take  much  interest  in  the  novel  enter- 
prise of  this  "  Eastern  man,"  and  are  phrased  with 
his  pushing  and  persevering  spirit ;  and  as  his 
movements  are  characteristic  of  life  in  the  wil- 
derness, we  will,  with  the  reader's  permission, 
wliile  Captiiin  Bonneville  is  breakirg  up  liis 
camp  and  saddling  his  horses,  step  hack  a  year 
in  time,  and  a  few  hundred  miles  in  distance,  to 
the  bank  of  the  Bighorn,  and  launch  ourselves 
with  Wyeth  in  his  bull  boat;  and  though  his 
adventurous  voyage  will  take  us  many  hundreds 
of  miles  further  down  wild  and  wandering  rivers  ; 
yet  such  is  the  magic  power  of  the  pen,  that  we 
piv/mise  to  bring  the  reader  safe  back  to  Bear 
River  Valley,  by  the  time  the  last  horse  is 
saddled. 


')]V 


r%  \ 


CHAPTER   XLI. 


A  VOYAGE  IN  A  BULL  BOAT. 


I|: 


It  I 


i]T  was  alwut  tlie  middle  of  August  (1833) 
I  that  Mr.  Nathaniel  J.  Wyetli,  as  the 
reader  may  recollect,  lauuvihed  his  bull 
boat  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  of  the  Bighorn,  and 
departed  in  advance  of  the  parties  of  Campbell 
and  Captain  Bonneville.  His  boat  was  made  of 
three  buffalo  skins,  stretched  on  a  liglit  frame, 
stitched  together,  and  the  seams  payed  with  elk 
tallow  and  ashes.  It  was  eighteen  feet  long,  and 
about  five  feet  six  inches  wide,  sharp  at  each  end, 
with  a  round  bottom,  and  drew  about  a  foot  and 
a  half  of  water ;  a  depth  too  great  for  these 
upper  rivers,  which  abound  witii  shallows  and 
sand-bars.  The  crew  consisted  of  two  half-breeds, 
who  claimf  d  to  be  wiiite  men,  though  a  mixture 
of  the  French  creole  afid  the  Siiawnee  and 
Potawattomie.  They  claimed,  moreover,  to  be 
thorough  mountaineers,  and  first-rate  hunters  — 
the  common  boast  of  these  vagabonds  of  the 
wilderness.  Besides  these,  there  was  a  'Nez 
Perce  lac!  of  eigiiteen  years  of  age,  a  kind  of 
servant  of  all  work,  whose  great  aim,  like  all 
Indian  servants,  wits  to  do  as  little  work  as  possi- 
ble ;  there  was,  moreover,  a  half-breed  boy,  of 


'w 


l^i 


THE  BOAT  AND  ITS   CHEW. 


411 


igiist  (1833) 
yeth,  as   the 
lied  his  bull 
Bighorn,  and 
of  Campbell 
was  made  of 
licrht  frame, 
lyed  with  elk 
^eet  long,  and 
at  each  end, 
t  ti  foot  and 
at   for   these 
shallows   and 
o  half-breeds, 
tjrh  a  mixture 
hawnee    and 
cover,  to  be 
;e  hunters  — 
bonds   of    the 
was    a    Nez 
e,  a  kind  of 
aim,  like  all 
tvork  as  possi- 
)rced  boy,  ol 


thirteen,  named  Baptiste,  son  of  a  Hudson's  Bay 
trader  by  a  Flathead  beauty  ;  wiio  was  travel- 
ling with  Wyetli  to  see  the  world  and  complete 
his  education.  Add  to  these,  Mr.  Milton  Sublette, 
who  went  as  passenger,  and  Wi  have  the  crew  of 
the  little  bull  boat  complete. 

It  certainly  was  a  slight  armament  with  which 
to  run  the  jjauntlet  throu^fh  countries  swarminjj 
with  hostile  hoi'des,  and  a  slight  bark  to  navigate 
these  endless  rivers,  tossing  and  pitching  down 
rapids,  running  on  snags  and  bum[)ing  on  sand- 
bars ;  such,  however,  are  the  cockle-shells  with 
which  these  hardy  rovers  of  the  wilderness  will 
attempt  the  wildest  streams  ;  and  it  is  surprising 
what  rough  shocks  and  thumps  these  boats  will 
endure,  and  what  vicissitudes  they  will  live 
through.  Their  dui'ation,  however,  is  but  limited  ; 
they  require  frequently  to  be  haulod  out  of  the 
water  and  dried,  to  prevent  the  hides  from  be- 
coming water-soaked  ;  and  they  eventually  rot 
and  go  to  pieces. 

The  course  of  the  river  was  a  little  to  the 
north  of  east;  it  ran  about  five  miles  an  hour, 
over  a  gravelly  bottom.  The  banks  were  gen- 
erally alluvial,  and  thickly  grown  with  cotton- 
wood  trees,  intermingled  occasionally  with  ash 
and  plum  trees.  Now  and  then  limestone  cliffs 
and  promontoiies  advanced  upon  the  river,  mak- 
ing picturesque  headlands.  Beyond  the  woody 
borders  rose  ranges  of  naked  hills. 

Milton  Srblette  was  the  Pelorus  of  this  adven- 
turous bark  ;  being  somewhat  experien(;ed  in 
this  wild  kind  of  navigation.     It  required  all  his 


412 


B ONNE  VILLE' S  AD  VENTURES. 


attention  and  skill,  however,  to  pilot  her  clear  of 
Band-bars  and  snags,  or  sunken  trees.  There  was 
often,  too,  a  perplexity  of  choice,  where  the  river 
branched  into  various  channels,-  among  clusters 
of  islands  ;  and  occasionally  the  voyagers  found 
themselves  aground  and  had  to  turn  back. 

It  was  necessary,  also,  to  keep  a  wary  eye 
upon  the  land,  for  they  were  passing  through  the 
heart  of  the  Crow  country,  and  were  continually 
in  reach  of  any  ambush  that  might  be  lurking 
on  shore.  The  most  formidable  foes  that  they 
gaw,  however,  were  three  grizzly  bears,  quietly 
promenading  along  the  bank,  who  seemed  to  gaze 
at  them  with  surprise  as  they  glided  by.  Herds 
of  buffalo,  also,  were  moving  about,  or  lying  on 
the  ground,  like  cattle  in  a  pasture  ;  excepting 
such  inhabitants  as  these,  a  perfect  solitude 
reigned  over  the  land.  There  was  no  sign  of 
human  habitation  ;  for  the  Crows,  as  we  have 
already  shown,  are  a  wandering  people,  a  race  of 
hunters  and  warriors,  who  live  in  tents  and  on 
horseback,  and  are  continually  on  the  move. 

At  night  they  landed,  hauled  up  their  boat  to 
dry,  pitched  their  tent,  and  made  a  rousing  fire. 
Then,  as  it  was  the  first  evening  of  their  voyage, 
they  indulged  in  a  regale,  relishing  their  buffalo 
beef  with  inspiring  alcohol ;  after  which,  they 
slept  soundly,  without  dreaming  of  Crows  or 
Blackfeet.  Early  in  the  morning,  they  again 
hiunched  their  boat  and  committed  themselves  to 
the  stream. 

In  this  way,  they  voyaged  for  two  days  with- 
out any  material  occurrence,  excepting  a  severe 


A   CRLW  CAVALCADE. 


415 


thunder  storm,  which  compelled  them  to  put  to 
shore,  and  wait  until  it  was  past  On  the  third 
morning,  they  descried  some  persons  at  a  distance 
on  the  river  bank.  As  they  were  now,  by  calcu- 
lation, at  no  great  distance  from  Fort  Cass,  a 
trading  post  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  they 
supposed  these  might  be  some  of  its  people.  A 
nearer  approach  showed  tliem  to  be  Indians. 
Descrying  a  woman  apart  from  the  rest,  they 
landed  and  accosted  her.  She  informed  them 
that  the  main  force  of  the  Crow  nation,  consisting 
of  five  bands,  under  their  several  chiefs,  were 
but  about  two  or  three  miles  below,  on  their  way 
up  along  the  river.  This  was  unpleasant  tidings, 
but  to  retreat  was  impossible,  and  the  river 
afforded  no  hiding  place.  They  continued  for- 
ward, therefore,  trusting  that,  as  Fort  Cass  was 
so  near  at  hand,  the  Crows  might  refrain  from 
any  depredations. 

Floating  down  about  two  miles  further,  they 
came  in  sight  of  the  ^rst  band,  scattered  along 
the  river  bank,  all  wcfl  mounted  ;  some  armed 
with  guns,  others  with  bows  and  arrows,  and  a 
few  with  lances.  They  made  a  wildly  pictur- 
esque appearance,  managing  their  horses  with  ac- 
customed dexterity  and  grace.  Nothing  can  be 
more  spirited  than  a  band  of  Crow  cavaliers. 
They  are  a  fine  race  of  men,  averaging  six  feet 
in  height,  lithe  and  active,  with  hawk's  eyes  and 
Roman  noses.  The  latter  feature  is  common  to 
the  Indians  on  the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains; those  on  the  western  side  have  generally 
litraisht  or  flat  noses. 


m 


414 


B ONNE VILLITS  A D  VENTURES. 


Wyeth  would  fain  luive  slipped  by  this  caval 
cade  unnoticed  ;  but  the  river,  at  this  place,  was 
not  more  than  ninety  yards  across  ;  he  was  per- 
ceived, therefore,  and  hailed  by  the  vagabond 
warriors,  and,  we,  presume,  in  no  very  choice  lan- 
guage;  for,  among  their  other  accomplishments, 
the  Crows  are  famed  for  possessing  a  Billingsgate 
vocabulary  of  unrivalled  opulence,  and  (or  being 
by  no  means  sparing  of  it  whenever  an  occasion 
offers.      Indeed,    thou^jrh    Indians    are     jicnerallv 

'  O  ft  . 

very  lofty,  rhetorical,  and  figurative  in  their  lan- 
guage at  all  great  talks,  and  higli  ceremonials, 
yet,  if  trappers  and  traders  may  be  believed,  they 
are  the  most  unsavory  vagabonds  in  their  ordi- 
nary colloquies;  they  make  no  hesitation  to  call 
a  spade  a  spade ;  and  when  they  once  undertake 
to  call  hard  names,  the  famous  pot  and  kettle,  of 
vitupeniting  memory,  are  not  to  be  compared 
with  them  for  scurrility  of  epithet. 

To  escape  the  infliction  of  any  compliments  of 
the  kind,  or  the  launcliing,  peradventure,  of  more 
dangerous  missiles,  Wyeth  landed  with  tlie  best 
grace  in  his  power,  and  approached  the  chief  of 
the  band.  It  was  Arapooi>h,  the  quondfim  friend 
of  Rose  the  outlaw,  and  one  whom  we  have  al- 
ready mentioned  as  being  anxious  to  promote  a 
friendlv  intercourse  between  his  tribe  and  the 
white  men.  He  was  a  tall,  stout  man,  of  good 
presence,  and  received  the  voyagers  very  gra- 
ciously. His  people,  too,  thronged  around  them, 
and  were  ofHciously  attentive  after  the  Crow 
fashion.  One  took  a  great  fancy  to  Pia[)tiste,  the 
Flathead  boy,  and  a  still  greater  fancy  to  a  ring 


i 


CROW  CIVILITIES. 


415 


on  liis  finger,  wliicli  he  transposed  to  liis  own 
with  surprishig  dexterity,  and  then  disappeared 
with  a  quick  step  among  the  crowd. 

Anotlier  was  no  loss  pleased  with  the  Nez 
Perce  lad,  and  nothing  would  do  but  he  must  ex- 
change knives  with  him ;  drawing  a  new  knife 
out  of  the  Nez  Perce's  scabbard,  and  putting  an 
old  one  in  its  place.  Another  stepped  up  am? 
replaced  this  old  knife  with  one  still  older,  and 
{I  thii'd  helped  himself  to  knife,  scabbard,  and 
all.  It  was  with  much  difficulty  that  Wyeth  and 
his  companions  extricated  themselves  from  the 
clutches  of  these  ofiicious  Crows,  before  they 
were  entirely  plucked. 

Falling  down  the  river  a  little  farther,  they 
came  in  sight  of  the  second  band,  and  sheered  to 
the  opposite  side,  with  the  intention  of  passing 
them.  The  Crows  were  not  to  be  evaded. 
Some  pointed  their  guns  at  the  boat,  and  threat- 
ened to  fire ;  others  stripped,  plunged  into  the 
stream,  and  came  swimming  across.  INIaking  a 
virtue  of  necessity,  Wyeth  threw  a  cord  to  the 
first  that  came  within  reach,  as  if  he  wished  to 
be  drawn  to  the  shore. 

In  this  way  he  was  overhauled  by  every  band, 
and  by  the  time  he  and  his  people  came  out  of 
tlie  busy  hands  of  the  last,  they  were  eased  of 
most  of  their  superfluities.  Nothiiig,  in  all  prob- 
ability, but  the  proximity  of  the  American  trad- 
ing post,  kept  these  land  pirates  from  making  a 
good  prize  of  the  bull  boat  and  all  its  contents. 

Tliese  bands  wei'e  in  full  march,  equipped  for 
war,  and  evidently  full  of  mischief.     They  were, 


416 


B  ONNE  villi: S  AD  VEN  TUBES, 


\m 


in  fact,  the  very  bands  that  overrun  the  hxnd  in 
the  autumn  of  1833;  partly  robbed  Fitzpatrick 
of  his  horses  and  effects ;  hunted  and  -harassed 
Captain  Bonneville  and  bis  people ;  broke  up 
their  trapping  campaigns,  and,  in  a  word,  drove 
them  all  out  of  the  Crow  country.  It  has  been 
suspected  that  they  were  set  on  to  these  prar.ks 
by  some  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  anxious 
to  defeat  the  plans  of  their  rivals  of  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company  :  for  at  this  time  their  com- 
petition was  at  its  height,  and  the  trade  of  the 
Crow  country  was  a  great  object  of  rivalry. 
What  makes  this  the  more  probable  is,  that  the 
Crows  in  their  depredations  seemed  by  no  means 
blood-thirsty,  but  intent  chiefly  on  robbing  the 
parties  of  their  traps  and  horses,  thereby  disa- 
bling them  from  prosecuting  their  hunting. 

We  should  observe  that  this  year  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Company  were  pushing  their  way  up 
the  rivers,  and  establishing  rival  posts  near  those 
of  the  American  Company ;  and  that,  at  the 
very  time  of  which  we  are  speaking,  Captain 
Sublette  was  ascending  the  Yellowstone  with  a 
keel  boat,  laden  with  supplies ;  so  that  there  was 
every  prospect  of  this  eager  rivalship  being  cur- 
ried to  extremities. 

The  last  band  of  Crow  warriors  had  scarce 
disappeared  in  the  cloud  of  dust  they  had  raised, 
when  our  voyagers  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  and  glided  into  the  current  of  the  Yellow- 
Btone.  Turning  down  this  stream,  they  made 
for  Fort  Cass,  which  is  situated  on  the  right 
bank,  ab.at  three  miles  below  the  Bighorn.     On 


BLACK  FEET  INDIANS. 


417 


5  land  in 
tzpatrick 
•harassed 
broke  up 
>rd,  drove 
has  been 
se  praivks 
1^,  anxious 
he  Rocky 
Lheir  com- 
^(]e  of  the 
of  rivah-y. 
9,  that  the 
^  no  means 
obbuig  the 
ereby  disa- 

ituig. 

the  Rocky 
eir  way  up 
near  those 
,at,  at    the 
Captain 

[tone  with  a 
X  there  was 
being  car- 
had   scarce 
had  raised, 
louth  of  the 
the  Yellow- 
they   made 
In   the    right 
liglioru.     On 


the  opposite  side,  they  beheld  a  party  of  thirty- 
one  savages,  which  they  soon  ascertained  to  be 
Bhickfeet.  The  width  of  the  river  enabled  them 
to  keep  at  a  sufficient  distance,  and  they  soon 
landed  at  Fort  Cass.  This  was  a  mere  fortifi 
cation  against  Indians  —  being  a  stockade  of 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  square,  with 
two  bastions  at  the  extreme  corners.  M'TuUocli. 
an  agent  of  the  American  Company,  was  sta- 
tioned there  with  twenty  men ;  two  boats  of  fif- 
teen tons  burden  were  lying  here ;  but  at  cer- 
tain seasons  of  the  year  a  steamboat  can  come 
up  to  the  fort. 

They  had  scarcely  arrived,  when  the  Blackfeet 
warriors  made  their  appearance  on  the  opposite 
bank,  displaying  two  American  flags  in  token  of 
amity.  They  plunged  into  the  river,  swam 
across,  and  were  kindly  received  at  the  fort. 
They  were  some  of  the  very  men  who  had  been 
engaged  the  year  previously  in  the  battle  at 
Pierre's  Hole,  and  a  fierce-looking  set  of  fellows 
tliey  were ;  tall  and  hawk-nosed,  and  very  much 
resembling  the  Crows.  They  professed  to  be  on 
an  amicable  errand,  to  made  peace  with  the 
Crows,  and  set  off  in  all  haste,  before  night,  to 
overtake  them.  Wyeth  predicted  that  they 
would  lose  their  scalps  for  he  had  heard  the 
Crows  denounce  vengeance  on  them,  for  having 
murdered  two  of  their  warriors  v/ho  had  ven- 
tured among  them  on  the  faith  of  a  treaty  of 
peace.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  this  pa- 
cific errand  was  all  a  pretence,  and  that  the 
real  object  of  ihe  Blackfeet  braves  was  to  haug 

m 


413 


B ONNE  V1LLF:S  AD  VENTURES. 


[( < 


\M 


about  the  skirts  of  the  Crow  bands,  steal  their 
Iiorses,  and  take  the  scalps  of  stragglers. 

At  F'ort  Ciiss,  Mr.  Wyeth  disposed  of  some 
packages  of  beaver,  and  a  quantity  of  buffalo 
robes.  On  the  following  morning  (August  18th), 
he  once  more  launched  his  bull  boat,  and  pio- 
ceeded  down  the  Yellowstone,  which  inclined  in 
an  ea?t-nort beast  direction.  The  river  had  allu- 
vial bottoms,  fringed  with  great  quantities  of  the 
sweet  cotton-wood,  and  interrupted  occasionally 
by  "  blutfs  "  of  sandstone.  The  current  occa- 
sionally brings  down  fragments  of  granite  and 
porphyry. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  they  saw  something 
moving  on  the  bank  among  the  trees,  which  tluiy 
mistook  for  game  of  some  kind  ;  and,  being  in 
want  of  provisions,  pulled  towards  shore.  They 
discovered,  just  in  time,  a  party  of  Blackfeet, 
lurking  in  the  thickets,  and  sheered,  with  all 
speed,  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 

After  a  time  they  came  in  sight  of  a  gang  of 
elk.  Wyeth  was  immediately  for  pursuing  them, 
rifle  in  hfuid,  but  saw  evident  signs  of  dissatisfac- 
tion in  his  half-breed  hunters;  who  considered 
him  as  trenching  upon  their  province,  and  med- 
dling with  things  quite  above  his  capacity ;  for 
these  veterans  of  the  wilderness  are  exceedingly 
pragmatical  on  points  of  venery  and  woodcraft, 
and  tenacious  of  their  superiority  ;  looking  down 
with  infinite  contempt  upon  all  raw  beginnens. 
The  two  worthies,  therefore,  sallied  forth  them- 
belves,  but  after  a  time,  returned  empty-handed. 
They  laid  the  blame,  however,  entirely  on   their 


i 


rRAOhA TI CA L  II CN TERS. 


41S 


eal  their 

of  some 
)f   biiiValo 
U9t  IBtb). 
,  tiiid  pro- 
iicliue*!  'm 

bud  iillu- 
ties  of  tbe 

■rent   occii- 
rriinite  hikI 

f  somelbing 

wbicb  tbey 

1(1,  bein<?   in 

lore.     Tbey 

Blackfect, 

d,  with    all 


r. 


a  gang 


of 


suing  them, 
f  dissatisfac- 
considered 
8,  and   nied- 
apacity;  for 
exceedingly 
d  woodcraft, 
oking  down 
beginners. 

forth  them- 
ipty-handed. 

ely  on  their 


guns;  two  miserable  old  pi{;ces  with  flint  locks, 
which  vvitli  all  their  picking  and  hammering,  were 
contimiully  apt  to  miss  (ii-e.  Tiiese  great  boastera 
of  the  wilderness,  however,  are  very  often  ex- 
ceeding bad  shots,  and  fortunate  it  is  for  them 
when  they  have  old  Hint  guns  to  bear  the 
blame. 

The  next  day  they  passed  where  a  great  herd 
of  butlalo  were  bellowing  on  a  prairie.  Again 
the  Castor  and  Pollux  of  the  wilderness  sallied 
and  again  their  flint  guns  were  at  fault,  and 
missed  fire,  and  nothing  went  off  but  the  buffalo. 

Wyeth  now  found  there  was  danger  of  losing 
his  diimer  if  he  depended  upon  his  hunters;  ho 
took  riHe  in  hand,  therefore,  and  went  forth  him- 
self. In  the  cour.-e  of  an  hour,  he  returned  laden 
with  bufTalo  meat,  to  the  great  mortification  ot 
the  two  regular  hunters  who  were  annoved  at 
benig  eclipsed  by  a  greetdiorn. 

All  hands  now  set  to  work  to  prepare  the  mid- 
day repast.  A  fire  was  made  under  an  immense 
cotton- wood  tree,  that  overshadowed  a  beautiful 
[)iece  of  meadow  land  ;  rich  moi'sels  of  buffalo 
hump  were  soon  roasting  before  it ;  in  a  hearty 
and  prolonged  repast,  the  two  unsuccessful  hun- 
ters gradually  recovered  from  their  mortification  ; 
threatened  to  discard  their  old  flint  guns  as  soon 
as  they  should  reach  the  settlements,  and  boasted 
more  than  ever  of  the  wonderful  shots  they  had 
made,  when  they  had  guns  that  never  missed 
fire. 

Having  hauled  up  their  boat  to  dry  in  the  sun, 
Drevious    to    making    their   repast,  the  voyagers 


fii 


420 


BONNEVILLE'S  AD  VENTURE:^, 


m 


n 


now  set  it  oiicc  more  afloat,  and  proceeded  on 
their  way.  They  had  constructed  a  sail  out  of 
their  old  tent,  which  they  hoisted  whenever  the 
wind  was  favorable,  and  thus  skimmed  along 
down  the  stream  Their  voyage  was  pleasant 
notwithstanding  the  perils  by  sea  and  land,  with 
which  they  were  environed.  Whenever  they 
could,  they  encamped  on  islands,  for  the  greater 
security.  If  on  the  mainhind,  and  in  a  danger- 
ous neighborhood,  they  would  shift  their  camp 
after  dark,  leaving  their  fire  burning,  dropping 
down  the  river  to  some  distance,  and  making  no 
fire  at  their  second  encampment.  Sometimes 
they  would  float  all  night  with  tiie  current,  one 
keeping  watch  and  steering  while  the  rest  slept : 
in  such  case,  they  would  haul  their  boat  on  shore 
at  noon  of  the  following  day  to  dry  ;  for  not- 
withstanding every  precaution,  she  was  gradually 
getting  water-soaked  and  rotten. 

There  was  something  j)leasingly  solemn  and 
mysterious  in  thus  floating  down  these  wild  rivers 
at  night.  The  purity  of  the  atmosphere  in  these 
slevated  regions  gave  additional  splendor  to  the 
stars,  and  heightened  the  magnificence  of  the 
firmament.  The  occasional  rush  and  laving  of 
the  waters  ;  the  vague  sounds  from  tlie  surround- 
ing wilderness  ;  the  dreary  howl,  or  rather  whine 
of  wolves  from  the  plains  ;  the  low  grunting  and 
bellowing  of  the  buffalo,  and  the  shrill  neighing 
of  the  elk,  struck  the  ear  with  an  efl'ect  unknown 
in  the  daytime. 

The  two  knowing  hunters  had  scarcely  recov- 
ered from  one  mortification,  when  they  were  fated 


BALO   EAGLES. 


421 


eeded  on 
il  out  of 
never  tbe 
led  aloii}j; 
,  pleasant 
land,  with 
ever  they 
lie  greater 

a  danger- 
iheir  camp 
;,  dropping 
making  no 

Sometimes 
urrent,  one 
I  rest  slept : 
Lit  on  shore 
y  ;  for  n  Ot- 
is gradually 

iolemn    and 
wild  rivers 
ere  in  these 
tndor  to  the 
nee    of  the 
laving  of 
,ie  surround- 
■ather  whine 
ranting  and 
ill  neighing 
ct  miknown 

ircely  recov- 
were  fated 


to  experience  anotlier.  As  the  boat  \\i^  ghding 
Bwiftly  round  a  low  promontory,  tliinly  coverea 
with  trees,  one  of  them  gave  the  alarm  of  In- 
dians. Tlie  boat  was  instantly  shoved  from 
shore,  and  every  one  caught  up  liis  rifle. 
"  Where  are  tliey  ?  "  cried  Wyeth. 

"  There  —  there  !  riding  on  horseback  !  "  cried 
one  of  the  huntei's. 

"  Yes  ;  with  wliite  scarfs  on  !  "  cried  the  other. 

Wyeth  looked  in  the  direction  they  pointed, 
but  descried  nothing  but  two  bald  eagles,  perched 
on  a  low  dry  branch,  beyond  the  thickets,  and 
seeming,  from  tlie  rapid  motion  of  tlie  boat,  to  be 
moving  swiftly  in  an  opposite  direction.  The  de- 
tection of  this  blunder  in  the  two  veterans,  who 
prided  tiiemselves  on  the  sureness  and  quickness 
of  their  sight,  produced  a  hearty  laugh  at  their 
expense,  and  put  an  end  to  their  vauntings. 

The  Yellowstone,  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Bighorn,  is  a  clear  stream ;  its  waters  were  now 
gradually  growing  turbid,  and  assuming  the  yel- 
low clay  color  of  the  Missouri.  The  current 
was  about  four  miles  an  hour,  with  occasional 
rapids,  some  of  them  dangerous  ;  but  the  voy- 
agers passed  them  all  withojit  accident.  Tiie 
banks  of  the  river  were  in  many  places  precipi- 
tous, with  strata  of  bituminous  coal. 

They  now  entered  a  region  abounding  w'th 
buffalo  —  that  ever-journeying  animal,  which 
moves  in  countless  droves  from  point  to  point  of 
the  vast  wilderness  ;  traversing  plains,  pouring 
-hrough  the  intricate  defiles  of  mountains,  swim- 
ming rivers,  ever  ou  the  move ;  guided  on   its 


mm 


422 


BONNEVILLPa  ADVENTURES. 


liteill 


!    ', 

f; 


boundless  migrations  hy  some  traditioiinry  knowl- 
edge, like  tliti  finny  tribes  of  the  oceiin,  wliich,  at 
certain  seasons,  find  their  mysterious  paths  across 
tlie  deep,  and  revisit  the  remotest  shores. 

Tliese  great  migratory  herds  of  buffalo  have 
their  hereditary  paths  and  highways,  worn  deep 
througli  the  country,  and  making  for  the  surest 
pitsses  of  (tie  mountains,  and  the  most  practicable 
fords  of  the  rivers.  When  once  a  great  column 
is  in  full  career,  it  goes  straight  forward,  regard- 
less of  all  obstacles  ;  those  in  front  being  im- 
p'dled  by  the  moving  mass  behind.  At  such 
times  they  will  brenk  through  a  camp,  trampling 
down  everything  in  their  course. 

It  was  the  lot  of  the  voyagers,  one  night,  to 
encamp  at  one  of  these  buffalo  landing-places, 
and  exactly  on  the  trail.  They  had  not  been 
long  asleep,  when  they  were  awakened  by  a  great 
bellowing  and  tramping,  and  the  rush,  and  splash, 
and  snorting  of  animals  in  the  river.  They  had 
just  time  to  ascertain  that  a  buffalo  army  was  en- 
tering the  river  on  the  opposite  side,  and  making 
towards  the  landing-place.  With  all  haste  they 
moved  their  boat  and  shifted  tiieir  camp,  by 
which  time  the  head  of  the  column  had  reached 
the  shore,  and  came  pressing  up  the  bank. 

It  was  a  singular  spectacle,  by  the  uncertain 
moonlight,  to  behold  this  countless  throng  making 
their  way  across  the  river,  blowing,  and  bellow 
ing,  and  splashing.  Sometimes  they  pass  in  such 
dense  and  continuous  column  as  to  form  a  tera- 
uorary  dam  across  the  river  ;  the  waters  of  which 
rise  and  rush  over  their  backs,  or  between  their 


A  NOOSED  BUFFALO. 


423 


•y  knowl- 
which,  ftt 
ihs  across 


). 


falo  have 
vorii  (le«P 
ihe   surest 
pniclU'able 
at  columa 
rd,  regartl- 
beiiig   iin- 
At    such 
,  trampliiig 

ie  night,  to 
ding-places, 
d  not  been 
I  by  a  great 

and  splash, 

They  hud 

•my  was  en- 

and  makuig 
I  haste  they 
camp,  by 

had  reached 

lank. 

le  uncertain 
rong  making 
and  bellow 
pass  in  such 
form  a  teni- 
ters  of  which 
jetween  their 


squadrons.  The  roaring  and  rushing  sound  of 
of  one  of  tliese  vast  lierds  crossing  a  river,  may 
Bonietimcs  in  a  still  night  be  heard  for  miles. 

The  voyagers  now  had  game  in  profusion. 
Tliey  could  kill  as  many  buffalo  as  they  pleased, 
and,  occasionally,  were  wanton  in  their  havoc, 
especially  among  scattered  herds,  that  came  swinj- 
ming  near  the  boat.  On  one  occasion,  an  old 
buffalo  bull  approached  so  near  that  the  half- 
breeds  must  fain  try  to  noose  him,  as  they  would 
a  wild  horse.  The  noose  was  successfully  thrown 
around  his  head,  and  secured  him  by  the  horns, 
and  they  now  promised  themselves  ample  sport. 
The  buffalo  made  a  prodigious  turm(ul  in  the 
water,  bellowing,  aiul  blcjvving,  and  floundering  ; 
and  they  all  floated  down  the  stream  together. 
At  length  he  found  footliold  on  a  suid-bar,  and 
taking  to  his  heels,  whirleil  the  boat  after  him, 
like  a  whale  when  harpooned  ;  so  that  the  hunt- 
ers were  obliged  to  cast  off  their  rope,  with 
which  strange  head-gear  the  venerable  bull  made 
off  to  the  prairies. 

On  the  24th  of  August,  the  bull  boat  emerged, 
with  its  adventurous  crew,  into  the  broad  bosom 
of  the  mighty  Missouri.  Here,  about  six  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  voy- 
agers landed  at  Fort  Union,  the  distributing  post 
\)f  the  American  Fur  Company  in  the  western 
country.  It  was  a  stockaded  fortress,  about  two 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  square,  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  a  high  bank.  Here  they  were  hospitably 
entertained  by  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  the  superinten- 
dent, and  remained  with  him  three  days,  enjoying 


424 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES, 


the  unusual  luxuries  of  bread,  butter,  milk,  and 
cheese,  for  the  fort  was  well  supplied  with  do- 
mestic cattle,  though  it  had  no  garden.  The  at- 
mosphere of  these  elevated  regions  is  said  to  be 
too  dry  for  the  culture  of  vegetables ;  yet  the 
voyagers,  in  comuig  down  the  Yellowstone,  had 
met  with  plums,  grapes,  chei.ies,  and  currants, 
juid  had  observed  ash  and  elm  trees.  Where 
these  grow,  the  climate  cannot  be  incompatible 
with  gardening. 

At  Fort  Union  Wyeth  met  with  a  melancholy 
memento  of  one  of  his  men.  This  was  a  pow- 
der-flask, which  a  clerk  hati  purchased  from  a 
Blackfbot  warrior.  It  bore  the  initials  of  poor 
More,  the  unfortunate  youth  murdered  the  year 
previously,  at  Jackson's  Hole,  by  the  Blackfeet, 
and  whose  bones  h;id  been  subsequently  found 
by  Captain  Bonneville.  This  flask  had  either 
been  passed  from  hand  to  hauJ  )f  the  tribe,  or, 
perhaps,  had  been  brought  Vi  tLe  fort  by  the  very 
yavage  who  slew  him. 

As  the  bull  boat  was  now  nearly  ^vorn  out, 
and  altogether  unfit  for  the  broader  and  more 
turbulent  stream  of  the  Missouri,  it  was  given 
up,  and  a  canoe  of  cotton-wood,  about  twenty 
feet  long,  fabricated  by  the  Blackfeet,  was  pur- 
chased to  supply  its  place.  In  this  Wyeth  hoisted 
his  sail,  and  bidding  adieu  to  the  hospitable  su- 
perintendent of  Fort  Union,  turned  his  prow  to 
the  east,  and  set  off  down  the  Missouri. 

lie  had  not  proceeded  many  hours,  before,  in 
the  evening,  he  came  to  a  large  keel  boat,  at  an- 
chor.    It  proved  to  be  the  boat  of  Captain  Wil« 


FLOATING    WITH   THE  CURRENT.       425 


ii 


milk,  and 
with  do- 
The  at- 
said  to  be 
i;  yet  the 
rst  ne,  had 
[  currants, 
3.     Where 
^compatible 

melancholy 
vas   a  pow- 
ied   from   a 
Ills   of  poor 
3d  the  year 
3  Black  feet, 
lenlly  found 
:  had  either 
he  tribe,  or, 
by  the  very 

^y  ^vorn  out, 
r  and    more 
t  was  given 
[bout  twenty 
let,  was  pur- 
^yeth  hoisted 
)spitable   su- 
his  prow  to 

iri. 

irs,  before,  in 

ll  boat,  at  an- 

Captaiu  Wil- 


liam Sublette,  freighted  with  munitions  for  carry- 
ing on  a  powerful  opposition  to  the  American 
Fur  Compuny.  The  voyagers  went  on  board, 
wliere  they  were  treated  with  the  hearty  hospi- 
tality of  the  wilderness,  and  passed  a  social  even- 
ing, talking  over  past  scenes  and  adventures, 
and  especially  the  memorable  fight  at  Pierre's 
Hole. 

Here  Milton  Sublette  determined  to  give  up 
further  voyaging  in  the  canoe,  and  remain  with 
his  brother ;  accordingly,  in  the  morning,  the 
fellow-voyagers  took  kind  leave  of  each  other, 
and  Wyetli  continued  on  his  course.  There  was 
now  no  one  on  board  of  his  boat  that  had  ever 
voyaged  on  the  Missouri  ;  it  was,  however,  all 
plain  sailing  down  the  stream,  without  any 
chance  of  missing  the  way. 

All  day  the  voyagers  pulled  gently  along,  and 
landed  in  the  evening  and  supped ;  then  re- 
embarking,  they  suffered  the  canoe  to  float  down 
with  the  current,  taking  turns  to  watch  and 
sleep.  The  night  was  calm  and  serene  ;  the  elk 
kept  up  a  continual  whinnying  or  squealing, 
being  the  commencement  of  the  season  when  they 
are  in  heat.  In  the  midst  of  the  night,  the  canoe 
struck  on  a  sand  bar,  and  all  hands  were  aroused 
by  the  rush  and  roar  of  the  wild  waters,  which 
broke  around  her.  They  were  all  obliged  to 
jump  overboard,  and  work  hard  to  get  her  olf, 
which  was  accomplished  with  much  difficulty. 

In  the  course  of  the  following  day  they  saw 
three  grizzly  bears  at  different  times  along  the 
bank.     The  lust  one  was  on  a  point  of  land,  and 


^' 


KUMM^ 


m 


>'■  I 


426 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


was  evidently  making  for  the  riv^r,  to  swim 
across.  The  two  lialf-breed  hunters  were  now 
eager  to  repeat  the  maneuver  of  the  noose ; 
promising  to  entrap  Bruin,  and  have  rare  sport 
in  strangling  and  drowning  him.  Their  only  fear 
was,  that  he  might  take  fright  and  return  to  land 
j(^fore  they  could  get  between  him  and  the  shore. 
Holding  back,  therefore,  until  he  was  fairly  com- 
mitted in  the  centre  of  the  stream,  they  then 
pulled  forward  with  might  and  main,  so  as  to  cut 
otF  his  retreat,  and  take  him  in  the  rear.  One 
of  the  worthies  stationed  himself  in  the  bow, 
with  the  cord  and  slip-noose,  the  other,  with  the 
Nez  Perce,  managed  the  paddles.  Tliere  was 
nothing  further  from  the  thoughts  of  honest  Bruin, 
however,  than  to  beat  a  retreat.  Just  as  the 
canoe  was  drawing  near,  he  turned  suddenly 
round  and  made  for  it,  with  a  horrible  snarl,  and 
a  tremendous  show  of  teeth.  The  aftVigiited 
hunter  called  to  his  comrades  to  paddle  off. 
Scarce  had  they  turned  the  boat,  when  the  bear 
laid  his  enormous  claws  on  the  gunwale,  and 
attempted  to  get  or  board.  The  canoe  was 
nearly  overturned,  and  a  deluge  of  water  came 
pouring  over  the  gunwale.  All  was  chimor, 
terror,  and  confusion.  Every  one  bawled  out  — 
the  bear  roared  and  snarled  —  one  caught  up  a 
gun  ;  but  water  had  rendered  it  useless.  Others 
handled  their  paddles  more  effectually,  and  beat- 
ing old  Bruin  about  the  head  and  claws,  obliged 
him  to  relinquish  his  hold.  Tliey  now  plied  their 
paddles  with  might  and  main,  the  bear  made  tlie 
best  of  his  way  to  shore,  and  so  ended  the  second 


\\ 


5. 


A  PERILOUS  SITUATION. 


427 


,  to    swim 

were  now 
,lie    noose  ; 

rare  sport 
ir  only  fear 
urn  to  land 
d  t\ie  shore. 

fairly  com- 
,  they   thtiii 

so  as  to  cut 

rear.     One 

in   the  bow, 

ler,  with  the 

There  was 

lonest  Bruin, 

Just  as  the 
,ed  suddenly 
jle  snarl,  and 

Ihe    attVigli^*^^^ 
paddle    off. 
hen  the  bear 
gunwale,  and 
e    canoe  was 
,f  water  came 
was    clamor, 
,awled  out — ■ 
[s  caught  up  a 
;eless.     Others 
[ally,  and  beat- 
claws,  obliged 
[K)W  plied  their 
hear  made  the 
(led  the  second 


exploit  of  the  noose  —  the  hunters  determining  to 
have  no  more  naval  contests  with  grizzly  bears. 

The  voyagers  were  now  out  of  the  range  of 
Crows  and  Blackfeet  ;  but  they  were  approaching 
the  country  of  the  Rees,  or  Arickanis  ;  a  tiibe 
no  less  dangerous,  and  whc.  were,  generally, 
hostile  to  small  parties. 

In  passing  through  their  country,  Wyeth  laid 
by  all  day,  and  drifted  quietly  down  the  river  at 
night.  In  this  way  he  passed  on,  until  he  sup- 
posed himself  safely  through  the  region  of  danger, 
when  iie  resumed  his  voyaging  in  the  open  day. 
On  the  3d  of  September  he  had  landed,  at  mid- 
day, to  dine  ;  and  while  some  were  making  a  fire, 
one  of  the  hunters  mounted  a  high  bank  to  look 
out  for  game.  He  had  scarce  glanced  his  eye 
round,  when  he  perceived  horses  grazing  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Crouching  down,  he 
slunk  back  to  the  camp,  and  reported  what  he 
had  seen.  On  further  reconnoitring,  the  voyagers 
counted  twenty-one  lodges  ;  and,  from  the  mnn- 
ber  of  horses,  computed  that  there  must  be  nearly 
a  hundred  Indians  encamped  there.  They  now 
drew  their  boat,  with  all  speed  and  caution,  into  a 
thicket  of  water  willows,  and  remained  closely 
concealed  all  dav.  As  soon  as  the  night  closed 
in  they  reembarked.  The  moon  would  rise 
early  ;  so  that  they  had  but  about  two  hours  of 
darkness  to  get  past  tlie  camp.  The  night, 
however,  w^as  cloudy,  with  a  blustering  wind. 
Silently,  and  with  muffled  oars,  they  glided  down 
Jie  river,  keeping  close  under  the  shore  opposite 
lo  the  camp,  watching  its  various  lodges  and  fires, 


! 


'm 


'f^ii 


*!l|i 


III: 


SJvt, 


isi 


428 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVEN  TUBES. 


and  the  dark  forms  passing  to  and  fro  between 
them.  Suddenly,  on  turning  a  point  of  hmd, 
they  found  themselves  close  upon  a  camp  on  their 
own  side  of  the  river.  It  appeared  that  not 
more  than  one  half  of  the  band  had  crossed. 
They  were  within  a  few  yards  of  the  shore  ;  they 
saw  distinctly  the  savages  —  some  standing,  some 
lying  round  the  fire.  Horses  were  gi'azing  around. 
Some  lodges  were  set  up  ;  others  had  been  sent 
across  the  river.  The  red  glare  of  the  fires  upon 
these  wild  groups  and  harsh  faces,  contr'^sted  with 
with  the  surrounding  darkness,  had  a  startliim 
effect,  as  the  voyagers  suddeidy  came  upon  the 
scene.  The  dogs  of  the  camp  perceived  them, 
and  barked  ;  but  the  Lxliaus,  fortunately,  took  no 
heed  of  their  clamor.  Wyetli  instantly  sheered 
his  boat  out  into  the  stream  ;  when,  unluckily,  it 
struck  upon  a  sand-bar,  and  stuck  fast.  It  was 
a  perilous  and  trying  situation  ;  tor  he  was  fixed 
between  the  two  camps,  and  within  rifle  range  of 
both.  All  hands  jumped  out  into  the  water,  and 
tried  to  get  the  boat  off;  but  as  no  one  dared  to 
give  the  word,  they  could  not  pull  together,  and 
their  labor  was  in  vain.  In  this  way  they 
labored  for  a  long  time  ;  until  Wyeth  thought  of 
giving  a  signal  for  a  general  heave  by  lifting  his 
hat.  The  expedient  succeeded.  They  launched 
their  canoe  again  into  deep  water,  and  getting  in, 
had  the  deliglit  of  seeing  the  camp  fires  of  the 
eavncfes  soon  fadin":  in  the  distance. 

They  continued  under  way  the  greater  part  of 
the  night,  until  far  beyond  all  danger  from  thia 
band,  when  the}  pulled  to  shore  and  encamped. 


I 


)  between 
of   land, 
ip  on  their 
I   that   not 
id  crossed, 
iiore  ;  they 
ding,  some 
ing  around. 
I  been  sent 
3  fires  upon 
T-^sted  with 
a  startling 
e  upon  the 
aived  them, 
;ely,  took  no 
lily  sheered 
nnluckily,  it 
ist.     It  was 
le  was  fixed 
He  range  of 
B  water,  and 
)iie  dared  to 
ogether,  and 
wuy    they 
thought  of 
,y  lifting  his 
iney  launched 
Id  getting  in, 
fires  of  the 

later  part  of 
rer  from  this 
encamped. 


AFOUL    OF  A   SNAG. 


429 


The  following  day  was  windy,  and  they  came 
near  upsetting  their  boat  in  carrying  sail.  To- 
wards evening,  the  wind  subsided  and  a  beautiful 
calm  night  succeeded.  They  floated  along  with 
the  current  throughout  the  night,  taking  turns  to 
watch  and  steer.  The  deep  stillness  of  the  night 
was  occasionally  interrupted  by  the  neighing  of 
the  elk,  the  hoarse  lowing  of  the  butt'ah),  the 
hootiiiff  of  larjje  owls,  and  the  screechino:  of  the 
small  ones,  now  and  then  the  splash  of  a  beaver, 
or  the  gong-like  sound  of  ;he  swan. 

Part  of  their  voyage  was  extremely  tempestu- 
o  .,  v/ith  high  winds,  tremendous  thunder,  and 
soaking  rain  ;  and  they  were  repeatedly  in  ex- 
treme danger  irom  drift-wood  and  sunken  trees. 
On  one  occasion,  having  continued  to  float  at 
night,  after  the  moon  was  down,  they  ran  under 
a  great  snag,  or  sunken  tree,  with  dry  branches 
above  the  water.  These  caught  the  mast,  while 
the  boat  swung  round,  broadside  to  the  stream, 
and  began  to  fill  with  water.  Nothing  saved  her 
from  total  wreck  but  cutting  away  the  mast. 
She  then  drove  down  the  stream,  but  left  one  of 
the  unlucky  half-breeds  clinging  to  the  snag,  like 
a  monkey  to  a  pole.  It  was  necessary  to  run  in 
shore,  toil  up  laboriously  along  the  eddies,  and 
to  attain  some  distance  above  the  snag,  when  they 
launched  forth  again  into  the  stream,  and  floated 
down  with  it  to  his  rescue. 

We  forbear  to  detail  all  the  circumstances  and 
adventures  of  upwards  of  a  month's  voyage, 
down  the  windings  and  doublings  of  this  vast 
mer ;     iu    the    course    of    which    they    stopped 


t  r- 


430 


2?  ONN£  VILLFJS  A  D  VEN TUBES. 


occasionally  at  a  post  of  one  of  the  rival  fur 
companies,  or  at  a  government  agency  for  an 
Indian  tribe.  Neither  shall  we  dwell  upon  the 
changes  of  climate  and  productions,  as  the  voy- 
agers swept  down  from  north  to  south,  across  sev- 
eral degrees  of  latitude,  arriving  at  the  regions 
of  oaks  and  sycamores  ;  of  mulberry  and  -Jbass- 
wood  trees ;  of  paroquets  and  wild  turkeys. 
This  is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  the  middle 
and  lower  part  of  the  Missouri  ;  but  still  more 
so  of  the  Mississippi,  whose  rapid  current  trav- 
erses a  succession  of  latitudes,  so  as  in  a  few  days 
to  float  the  voyager  almost  from  the  frozen 
regions  to  the  tropics. 

The  voyage  of  Wyeth  shows  the  regular  imob- 
structed  flow  of  the  rivers  on  the  east  side  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  contrast  to  those  of  the 
western  side  where  rocks  and  rapids  continually 
menace  and  obstruct  the  voyager.  We  And  him 
in  a  frail  bark  of  skins,  launching  himself  in  a 
stream  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
floating  down  from  river  to  river,  as  they  empty 
themselves  into  each  other ;  and  so  he  might 
have  kept  on  upwards  of  two  thousand  miles, 
imtil  his  little  bark  should  drift  into  the  ocean. 
At  present,  we  shall  stop  with  him  at  Canton- 
ment Leavenworth,  the  frontier  post  of  the 
United  States,  where  he  arrived  on  the  27th  of 
September. 

Here,  his  first  care  v^as  to  have  his  Nez  Perce 
Indian,  and  his  hi^lf-breed  boy,  Baptiste,  vaccin- 
ated. As  they  approached  the  fort,  they  were 
bailed  by  the  sentinel.     The  sight  of  a  soldier  in 


u 


M:iW''v 


I  ■< 


^i 


THE  "  WHITE  SQUAWS.** 


431 


full  army,  with  what  appeared  to  be  a  long  knife 
glittering  on  the  end  of  his  musket,  struck  Bap- 
tiste  with  such  affright,  that  he  took  to  his  heels, 
bawling  for  mercy  at  the  top  of  his  voice.  The 
Nez  l^erce  would  have  followed  him,  had  not 
AVyeth  assured  him  of  his  safety.  When  they  un- 
derwent the  operation  of  the  lancet,  the  doctor's 
wife  and  tuiother  lady  were  present  —  both  beauti- 
ful women.  They  were  the  first  white  women 
that  they  had  seen,  and  they  could  not  keep  theil 
eyes  off  of  them.  On  returning  to  the  boat, 
they  recounted  to  their  companions  all  that  they 
had  observed  at  the  Ibrt ;  but  were  especially  elo- 
quent about  the  white  squaws,  who,  they  said, 
were  white  as  snow,  and  more  beautiful  than  any 
human  being  tiiey  had  ever  beheld. 

We  shall  not  accompany  the  captain  any  fur- 
ther in  his  voyage ;  but  will  simply  state,  that 
he  made  his  way  to  Boston,  where  he  succeeded 
in  organizing  an  association  under  the  name  of 
"The  Columbia  River  Fishing  and  Trading  Com- 
pany," for  his  original  objects  of  a  salmon  fishery 
and  a  trade  in  furs.  A  brig,  the  May  Dacres, 
had  been  dispatched  for  the  Columbia  with  sup- 
plies ;  and  he  was  now  on  his  way  to  the  same 
point,  at  the  head  of  sixty  men,  whom  he  had 
enlisted  at  St.  Louis ;  some  of  whom  were  ex- 
perienced hunters,  and  all  more  habituated  to  the 
life  of  the  wilderness  than  his  first  band  of  *'  down- 
easters." 

We  will  now  return  to  Captain  Bonneville  and 
his  party,  whom  we  left,  making  up  their  packs 
and  saddling  their  horses,  in  Bear  River  Valley. 


f 


lif  ;    '  •  i :! 

1 1 


f  . 


CHAPTER   XLH. 

Departure  of  Captain  Bonneville  for  the  Columbia.  —  Ad- 
vance of  Wyeth.  —  EfTorts  to  keep  the  lead.  —  Hudson's 
Bay  party.  —  A  junketing. —  A  delectable  beverage. — 
Hone}'  and  alcohol.  —  High  carousing.  —  The  Canadian 
ban  vlvant.  —  A  cache. —  A  rapid  move.  —  Wyeth  and  his 
pliins.  —  His  travelling  companions.  —  IJutTalo  hunting.  — 
More  conviviality.  —  An  interruption. 


T  was  the  3d  of  July  that  Captain 
Bonneville  set  out  on  his  second  visit 
to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  at  the 
head  of  twenty  three  men.  He  travelled  leis- 
urely, to  keep  his  horses  fresh,  until,  on  the  10th 
of  July,  a  scout  brought  word  that  Wyeth,  with 
his  band,  was  but  fifty  miles  in  the  rear,  and 
pushing  forward  with  all  speed.  This  caused 
some  bustle  in  the  camp  ;  for  it  was  important  to 
get  first  10  the  buffalo  ground  to  secure  provisions 
for  the  journey.  As  the  horses  were  too  heavily 
laden  to  travel  fast,  a  cache  was  dio^ged  as 
promptly  as  possible,  to  receive  all  superfluous 
baggage.  Just  as  it  was  finished,  a  spring  burst 
out  of  the  earth  at  the  bottom.  Another  caehe 
was  therefore  digged,  about  two  miles  further  on, 
when,  as  they  were  about  to  bury  the  effects,  a 
line  of  horsemen,  with  pack-horses,  were  seen 
streaking  oyov  the  plain,  and  encamped  close  by. 


il 


A  JLNKEriN'J. 


433 


lolumbia.  —  Ad- 
sad.  —  Hudson'8 
l)l(j  beverat,'e. — 
-The  Canadian 
_  VVyeth  and  his 
ifFalo  hunting.— 


that    Captain 
is  second  visit 
umbia,  at  the 
travelled  leis- 
1,  on  the  10th 
,t  Wyeth,  with 
the  rear,  and 
This  caused 
,s  important  to 
Icure  provisions 
re  \joo  heavily 
as    digged   as 
,11  superfluous 
a  spring  burst 
Another  cache 
lies  further  on, 
the  effects,  a 
,es,  were    seen 
iped  close  by. 


It  proved  to  be  a  small  band  in  the  service  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  under  the  command 
of  a  veteran  Canadian ;  one  of  those  petty 
leaders,  who,  with  a  small  party  of  men,  and  a 
small  supply  of  goods,  are  employed  to  follow 
up  a  band  of  Indians  from  one  hunting  ground 
to  another,  and  buy  up  their  peltries. 

Having  received  numerous  civilities  from  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  the  captain  sent  an  in- 
vitation to  the  officers  of  the  party  to  an  evening 
regale,  and  set  to  work  to  make  jovial  prepara- 
tions. As  the  night  air  in  these  elevated  regions 
is  apt  to  be  cold,  a  blazing  fire  was  soon  made, 
that  would  have  done  credit  to  a  Christmas  din- 
ner instead  of  a  midsummer  banquet.  The 
parties  met  in  high  good-fellowship.  There  was 
abundance  of  such  hunters'  fare  as  the  neighbor- 
hood furnished ;  and  it  was  all  discussed  with 
mountain  appetites.  They  talked  over  all  the 
events  of  their  late  campaigns  ;  but  the  Canadian 
veteran  had  been  unlucky  in  some  of  his  tran- 
sactions ;  and  his  brow  began  to  grow  cloudy. 
Captain  Bonneville  remarked  his  rising  spleen, 
and  regretted  that  he  had  no  juice  of  the  grape 
to  keep  it  down. 

A  man's  wit,  however,  is  quick  and  inventive 
m  the  wilderness  ;  a  thought  suggested  itself  to 
the  captain,  how  he  might  brew  a  delectable  bev- 
erage. Among  his  stores  was  a  keg  of  honey  but 
half  exhausted.  This  he  filled  up  with  alcohol, 
and  stirred  the  fiery  and  mellifluous  ingredients 
together.     The   glorious   result    may  readily  be 

imagined  ;  a   happy  compound,   of  strength  and 

28 


u 


imm 


l5if 


I  i 


434 


BONNE  VILLE'S   AD  VENTURES. 


Bwectncss,  enough  to  soothe  the  most  riifTlcd  tem- 
per, and  unsettle  the  most  solid  understanding. 

The  beverage  worked  to  a  charm ;  the  caL 
circulated  merrily ;  the  first  deep  draught  washed 
out  every  care  from  the  mind  of  the  veteran  ;  the 
second  elevated  his  spirit  to  the  clouds.  Ho 
was,  in  fact,  a  boon  companion,  as  all  veteran 
Canadian  traders  are  apt  to  be.  He  now  be- 
came glorious ;  talked  over  all  his  exploits,  his 
huntings,  his  fightings  with  Indian  braves,  his 
loves  with  Indian  beauties ;  sang  snatches  of  old 
French  ditties  and  Canadian  boat  songs  ;  drank 
deeper  and  deeper,  sang  louder  and  louder,  until, 
having  reached  a  climax  of  drunken  gayety,  he 
gradually  declined,  and  at  L:ngth  fell  fast  asleep 
upon  the  ground.  Afler  a  long  nap,  he  again 
raised  his  head,  imbibed  another  potation  of  the 
"  sweet  and  strong,"  flashed  up  with  another 
slight  blaze  of  French  gayety,  and  again  fell 
asleep. 

The  morning  found  him  still  upon  the  field  of 
action,  but  in  sad  and  sorrowful  condition  ;  suf- 
fering the  penalties  of  past  pleasures,  and  calling 
to  mind  the  captain's  dulcet  compound,  with 
many  a  retch  and  spasm.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
honey  and  alcohol,  which  had  passed  so  glibly 
and  smoothly  over  his  tongue,  were  at  war  within 
his  stomach  ;  and  that  he  had  a  swarm  of  bees 
within  his  head.  In  short,  so  helpless  and  woe- 
begone was  his  plight,  that  his  party  proceeded  on 
their  march  without  him  —  the  captain  promising 
to  l)ring  him  on  iu  safety,  in  the  after  part  of  the 
day. 


ni 

11 

M 

fek^iiL^ 

:s. 

iidlcd  tem- 
taiuling. 

;  the  can 
nrlit  washed 
eteran  ;  tho 
ouds.  Ho 
all  veteran 
le  now  be- 
exploits,  his 

braves,  his 
tches  of  old 
mgs  ;  drank 
ouder,  until, 

I  gayety,  he 

II  fast  asleep 
xp,  he  again 
itation  of  the 
nth    another 

again    fell 

the  field  of 
ndition  ;  suf- 
,  and  calling 
3onnd,    with 
icd  as  if  the 
sed  so  glibly 
it  war  within 
varm  of  bees 
less  and  woe- 
proceeded  on 
ain  ])romising 
er  part  of  the 


WYKril  AND  HIS  PLANS. 


43d 


As  soon  as  this  party  had  moved  oil'.  Captain 
Bonneville's  men  proceeded  to  construct  and  till 
their  cache  ;  and  just  as  it  was  completed  tho 
party  of  Wyeth  was  descried  at  a  distance.  Id 
a  moment  all  was  activity  to  take  the  road. 
The  horses  xvere  pre[)ared  and  mounted  ;  and 
being  lightened  of  a  great  part  of  their  burdens, 
were  able  to  move  with  celerity.  As  to  the 
worthy  convive  of  the  preceding  evening,  he  wa? 
carefully  gathered  up  from  the  hunter's  couch  on 
which  he  lay,  repentant  and  supine,  and,  being 
packed  upon  one  of  the  horses,  was  hurried 
forward  with  the  convoy,  groaning  and  ejaculat- 
ing at  every  jolt. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  Wyeth,  being  lightly 
mounted,  rode  ahead  of  his  party,  and  oveilook 
Captain  Bonneville.  Their  meeting  was  friendly 
and  courteous ;  and  they  discussed,  sociably,  their 
respective  fortunes  since  they  separated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Bighorn.  AVyetli  announced  his 
intention  of  establishing  a  small  trading  post  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Portneuf,  and  leaving  a  few 
men  there,  with  a  (juantity  of  goods,  to  trade 
with  the  neiixhborinof  Indians.  He  was  com- 
polled,  in  fact,  to  tliis  measure,  in  consecpicnce  of 
the  refusal  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Com- 
l)any  to  take  a  supply  of  goods,  which  he  had 
brought  out  for  them  according  to  contract,  and 
which  he  had  no  other  mode  of  disposing  of. 
lie  further  informed  Captain  Bonneville  that 
the  competition  between  the  Rf»cky  Mountain 
and  American  Fur  Companies,  which  had  led  to 
9uch  nefarious  stra^-agems,  and  deadly  feuds,  was 


ill 


m 


V 


m 


43  G 


BONNE  VILLICS  AD  Vh'N  TURKS. 


at  an  ciul  ;  tliey  li.iviiii^  divided  the  country  l)e- 
twecn  thorn ;  allottiiifr  houndjirics,  within  wliich 
^acli  w:is  to  trade  and  hunt,  so  as  not  to  interfere 
with  the  other. 

In  company  with  Wyeth  were  travelHng  two 
men  of  science  —  Mr.  Nuttall,  the  botanist ;  the 
same  who  ascended  the  Missouri,  at  the  time  of 
the  expeditioJi  to  Astoria  ;  and  Mr.  Towushend, 
an  ornithologist.  From  these  gentlemen  we  may 
look  forward  to  important  information  concerning 
these  interesting  regions.  There  were  three 
religious  missionaries,  also,  bound  to  the  shores 
of  the  Columbia,  to  spread  the  light  of  the  Gos- 
pel in  that  fair  wilderness. 

After  riding  for  some  time  together,  in  friendly 
conversation,  Wyeth  returned  to  his  party,  and 
Ca|)tain  Bonneville  continued  to  press  forward, 
and  to  gain  ground.  At  night,  he  sent  off  the 
sadly  sober,  and  moralizing  chief  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  under  a  proper  escort,  to  rejoin 
his  people,  his  route  branching  off  in  a  diiierent 
direction.  The  latter  took  a  cordial  leave  of  his 
host,  hoping,  on  some  future  occasion,  to  repay 
his  hosjjitality  in  kind. 

In  the  morning  the  captain  was  early  on  the 
march,  throwing  scouts  out  far  ahead,  to  scour 
hill  and  (^ile,  in  search  of  buffalo.  lie  had  con- 
fidently expected  to  find  game,  in  abundance,  on 
the  head  waters  of  the  Portneuf ;  but  on  reaching 
that  region,  not  a  track  was  to  be  seen. 

At  length  one  of  the  scouts,  who  had  made  a 
wide  sweep  away  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Black 
foot  River,  discovered  gieat  herds  quietly  grazing 


111:' 


BUFFALO  IIDNTING. 


437 


Hintry  l)e- 
iiin  which 
i  interfere 

elliiig  two 
anist;  the 
lio  time  of 
'ovvusheiKl, 
[?n  we  may 
concerning 
vere    three 
the  shores 
)f  the  Gos- 

,  in  friendly 
,  party,  and 
^88  forward, 
sent  off'  t\ie 
le  Hudson's 
I't,  to  rejoin 
I  a  different 
lleave  of  his 
In,  to  repay 

[arly  on  the 
id,  to  scour 
[le  had  con- 

|)undance,  on 
on  reaching 

;n. 

had  made  a 
)f  the  Black 

lietly  grazuig 


m  the  adjacent  meadows.  Ho  set  out  on  his  re- 
turn, to  report  his  discoveries ;  but  night  over- 
taking him,  he  was  kindly  and  hospiUihly  enter* 
tained  at  the  camp  of  Wy  jth.  As  soon  as  day 
dawned,  he  hastened  to  his  own  camp  with  the 
welcome  intelligence ;  and  about  ten  o'  clock  of 
the  same  morning,  Captain  Bonneville's  party 
were  in  the  midst  of  the  game. 

The  packs  were  scarcely  olF  the  backs  of  the 
mules,  when  the  runners,  mounted  on  the  fleetest 
horses,  were  full  tilt  after  the  buffalo.  Others  of 
the  men  were  busied  erecting  scaffolds,  and  other 
contrivances,  for  jerking  or  drying  meat;  others 
were  lighting  great  fires  for  the  same  purpose ; 
soon  the  hunters  began  to  make  their  appearance, 
bringing  in  the  choicest  morsels  of  buffalo  meat : 
these  were  placed  upon  the  scaffolds,  and  the 
whole  camp  presented  a  scene  of  singular  hurry 
and  activity.  At  daylight  the  next  morning,  the 
runners  again  took  the  field,  with  similar  success  ; 
and,  atler  an  interval  of  repose  made  their  third 
and  last  chase,  about  t',yelve  o'  clock,  for  by  this 
time  Wyeth's  party  was  in  sight.  The  game  being 
now  driven  into  a  valley,  at  some  distance,  Wyeth 
was  obliged  to  fix  his  camp  there ;  but  he  came  in 
the  evening  to  pay  Captain  Bonneville  a  visit. 
He  was  accompanied  by  Captain  Stewart,  the 
amateur  tra^  aller,  who  had  not  yet  sated  his  ap- 
petite for  the  adventurous  life  of  the  wilderness. 
VYith  him,  also,  was  a  Mr.  M'  Kay,  a  half-breed, 
son  of  the  unfortunate  adventurer  of  the  same 
aame,  who  came  out  in  the  first  maritime  ex- 
pedition to  Astoria,  and  was  blown  up  in  the  Ton- 


I 


i  i 
•I 


% 

Hi 

*l 

*^i 


!  . 


^1'  !    ! 


438 


B ONXE VILLE'S  AD  VEN T UR ES. 


quin.  His  son  had  grown  up  in  the  employ  of 
the  British  fur  companies ;  and  was  a  prime 
hunter,  and  a  (hiring  ])artisan.  lie  held,  more- 
over, a  farm,  in  the  valley  of  the  Walhimut. 

The  three  visitors,  when  they  reached  Captain 
Bonneville's  camp,  were  surprised  to  find  no  one 
in  it  but  himself  and  three  men  ;  his  party  being 
dispersed  in  all  directions,  to  make  the  most  of 
their  present  chance  for  hunting.  They  reraon- 
stiated  with  iiim  on  the  imprudence  of  remaining 
with  so  trifling  a  guard,  in  a  region  so  full  of 
danger.  Captain  Bonneville  vindicated  the  policy 
of  his  conduct,  lie  never  hesitated  to  send  out 
all  his  hunters  when  any  important  object  was  to 
be  attained ;  and  experience  had  taught  him  that 
he  was  most  secure,  when  his  lorces  were  thus 
distributed  over  the  surrounding  country,  lie 
then  was  sure  that  no  enemy  could  approach  from 
any  direction  without  being  discovered  by  his 
hunters ;  who  have  a  quick  eye  for  detecting  the 
slightest  signs  of  the  proximity  of  Indians ;  and 
who  would  instantly  convey  intelligence  to  the 
camp. 

The  captain  now  set  to  work  with  his  men  to 
prepare  a  suitable  entertainment  for  his  guests. 
It  was  a  time  of  plenty  in  the  cjimp ;  of  prime 
hunters'  dainties ;  of  buffalo  humps,  and  buffalo 
tongues ;  and  roasted  ribs,  and  broiled  marrow- 
bones :  all  these  were  cooked  in  hunters'  style ; 
served  up  with  a  profusion  known  only  on  a 
plentiful  hunting  ground,  and  discussed  with  an 
appetite  that  woidd  astonish  the  puny  gourmands 
of  the  cities.     But  above  all,  and  to  give  a  bac- 


AN  INIKIIRUPTION. 


439 


chanalian  grace  to  this  truly  masculine  repast,  the 
captain  produced  his  mellifluous  keg  of  home- 
brewed nectar,  which  had  been  so  potent  over  tho 
senses  of  the  veteran  of  Hudson's  Bay.  Pot- 
ations, pottle  deep,  again  went  round:  never  did 
beverage  excite  greater  glee,  or  meet  with  more 
rapturous  commendation.  The  parties  were  fast 
advancing  to  that  happy  state,  which  would  have 
insured  ample  cause  for  the  next  day's  repentance, 
and  the  b*^es  were  already  beginning  to  buzz 
about  their  ears,  when  a  messenger  came  spurring 
to  the  camp  with  intelligence  that  Wyeth's  people 
had  got  entangled  in  one  of  those  deep  and  fright- 
ful ravines,  piled  with  immense  fragments  of  vol- 
canic rock,  which  gash  the  whole  country  about 
the  head  waters  of  the  Blackfoot  River.  The 
»*evel  was  insUmtly  at  an  end ;  the  keg  of  sweet 
and  potent  home-brewed  was  deserted ;  and  the 
guests  departed  with  all  speed,  to  aid  in  extricat- 
mg  their  companions  from  the  volcanic  ravine 


i 


CHAPTKR  XLIII. 

A  rapid  march.  —  A  cloud  of  dust.  —  Wild  horsemen.  -  -  "  High 
jinks."  —  Horse-racing  and  rifle  shooting.  —  The  game  of 
"  Hand."  —  The  fishing  sea.son.  —  Mode  of  fishing. —  Table 
lands.  —  Salmon  fishers.  —  The  captain's  visit,  to  an  Indian 
lodge.  —  The  Indian  girl.  —  The  pocket  mirror. —  Suppir. 
—  Troubles  of  an  evil  conscience. 


■  rl 


Mf 


11 


I) 


1 

|::  ._..i  J... 

, 

P  and  away ! "  is  the  first  thought  at  day- 
light of  the  Indian  trader,  when  a  rival 
is  at  hand  and  distance  is  to  be  gained. 
Early  in  the  morning,  Captain  Bonneville  ordered 
the  half-dried  meat  to  be  packed  upon  the  horses, 
and  leaving  Wyeth  and  liis  party  to  hunt  the 
scattered  buffalo,  pushed  off  rapidly  to  the  east, 
to  regain  the  plain  of  the  Portneuf.  His  march 
was  rugged  and  dangerous  ;  through  volcanic  hills, 
broken  into  cliffs  and  precipices,  and  seamed  with 
tremendous  chasms,  where  the  rocks  rose  like 
walls. 

On  the  second  day,  however,  he  encamped  once 
more  in  the  plain,  and  as  it  was  still  early,  some 
of  the  men  strolled  out  to  the  neighboring  hills. 
In  casting  their  eyes  round  the  country,  they  per- 
ceived a  great  cloud  of  dust  rising  in  the  south, 
and  evidently  approaching.  Hastening  back  to 
the  camp,  they  gave  the  alarm.  Preparations 
were  instantly  made  to  receive  an  enemy;  while 
some  of  the  men,  throwing  themselves  upon  the 


^ 


en. --"High 
The  game  of 
tiing. —  Table 
to  an  Indian 
jr.  —  Supper. 


laht  at  day- 
hen  a  rival 

be  gained, 
ille  ordered 

the  horses, 
)    hunt  the 

o  the  east, 

His  marcli 
jlcanic  hills, 

earned  with 
rose   like 

amped  onco 

early,  some 

hills. 

y,  they  per- 

the  south, 

back  to 

^reparations 

lemy ;  while 

3  upon  the 


nf 


"  nwn  jfNKs:* 


441 


*  running  horses  "  kept  for  hunting,  galloped  off 
to  reconnoitre.  In  a  little  while,  they  made  signals 
from  a  distance  that  all  was  friendly.  By  this 
time,  the  cloud  of  dust  had  swept  on  as  if  hurried 
along  by  a  blast,  and  a  band  of  wild  horsemen 
came  dashing  at  full  leap  into  the  camp,  yelling 
and  whooping  like  so  many  maniacs.  Their 
dresses,  their  accoutrements,  their  mode  of  riding, 
and  their  uncouth  clamor,  made  them  seem  a 
party  of  savages  arrayed  for  war ;  but  they  proved 
to  be  principally  half-breeds,  and  white  men  grown 
savage  in  the  wilderness,  who  were  employed  as 
trappers  and  hunters  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company. 

Here  was  again  "  high  jinks  "  in  the  camp. 
Captain  Bonneville's  men  hailed  these  wild 
scamperers  as  congenial  spirits,  or,  rather,  as  the 
very  game  birds  of  their  class.  They  entertained 
them  with  the  hospitality  of  mountaineers,  feast- 
ing them  at  every  fire.  At  first,  there  were 
mutual  details  of  adventures  and  exploits,  and 
broad  joking  mingled  with  peals  of  laughter. 
Then  came  on  boasting  of  the  comparative  merits 
of  horses  and  rifles,  which  soon  engrossed  every 
tongue.  This  naturally  led  to  racing  and  shoot- 
ing at  a  mark  ;  one  trial  of  speed  and  skill  suc- 
ceeded another,  shouts  and  acclamations  rose  fron*. 
the  victorious  parties,  fierce  altercations  suc- 
ceeded, and  a  general  melde  was  about  to  take 
place,  when  suddenly  the  attention  of  the  quar- 
rellers  was  arrested  by  a  strange  kind  of  Indian 
chant  or  chorus,  that  seemed  to  operates  upon 
them  as  a  charm.     Their  fury  was  at  an  end  ;  a 


li 


i 


tVi 


It  > 


riiii 


442 


n ONNE  viLLr:s  a d yen tures. 


tacit  reconciliation  succecfled,  and  the  ideas  of 
the  wliole  mongrel  crowd  —  whites,  half-breeds, 
and  6(juaw8  —  were  turneci  in  a  new  direction. 
They  all  formed  into  groups,  and  taking  theii 
places  at  the  several  fires,  prepared  for  one  of 
the  most  exciting  amusements  of  the  Nez  Per- 
ces,  and  the  other  tribes  of  the  Far  West. 

The  choral  chant,  in  fact,  which  had  thus  acted 
as  a  charm,  was  a  kind  of  wild  accompaniment 
to  the  favorite  Indian  game  of  "  Hand."  This 
is  played  by  two  parties  drawn  out  in  opposite 
platoons  before  a  blazing  fire.  It  is  in  some 
respects  like  the  old  game  of  passing  the  ring  or 
the  button,  and  detecting  the  hand  which  holds  it. 
In  the  present  game,  the  object  hidden,  or  the 
cache  as  it  is  called  by  the  trappers,  is  a  small 
Bplint  of  wood,  or  other  diminutive  article,  that 
may  be  concealed  in  the  closed  hand.  This  is 
passed  backwards  and  forwards  among  the  party 
"  in  hand,"  while  the  party  "  out  of  hand  "  guess 
where  it  is  concealed.  To  heighten  the  excite- 
ment  and  confuse  the  guessers,  a  number  of  dry 
poles  are  laid  before  eiwh  platoon,  upon  which 
the  members  of  the  party  "  in  hand  "  beat  furi- 
ously with  short  stave,«,  keeping  time  to  the 
choral  chant  already  mentioned,  which  waxes  fast 
and  furious  as  the  game  proceeds.  As  large  bets 
are  staked  upon  the  game,  the  excitement  is  pro- 
digious. Each  party  in  turn  bursts  out  in  full 
chorus,  beating,  and  yelling,  and  working  them- 
Felves  up  into  such  a  heat,  that  the  i)erspiration 
rolls  down  their  naked  shoulders,  even  in  the 
cold  of  a  winter  niffht.     The  bets  are  doubled 


m  H 


':\ 


.^ 


THE  FISHING  SEASON. 


443 


and  trebled  as  the  game  advances,  the  mental  ex- 
citement increases  almost  to  madness,  and  all  the 
worldly  effects  of  the  gamblers  are  often  hazarded 
upon  the  position  of  a  straw. 

These  gambling  games  were  kept  up  through- 
out the  night ;  every  fire  glared  upon  the  group 
that  looked  like  a  crew  of  maniacs  at  their  fran- 
tic orgies  ;  and  the  scene  would  have  been  kept 
up  throughout  the  succeeding  day,  liad  not  Cap- 
tain Bonneville  interposed  his  authority,  and  at 
the  usual  hour  issued  his  marchiuij  orders. 

Proceeding  down  the  course  of  Snake  R*  'er, 
the  hunters  regularly  returned  to  camp  in  the 
evening  laden  with  wild  geese,  which  were  yet 
scarcely  able  to  fly,  and  were  easily  caught  in 
great  numbers.  It  was  now  the  season  of  the 
annual  (ish-feast,  with  which  the  Indians  in  these 
l)arts  celebrate  the  first  appearance  of  the  salmon 
in  this  river.  These  fish  are  taken  in  gi'eat 
numbers  at  the  numerous  falls  of  about  four  feet 
pitch.  The  Indians  fiank  the  shallow  water  just 
below,  and  spear  them  as  they  attempt  to  pass. 
In  wide  parts  of  the  river,  also,  they  place  a  sort 
of  chevaux-de-frize,  or  fence,  of  poles  interwoven 
with  withes  and  formini'  an  an<j^le  in  the  middle 
of  the  currei»t,  where  a  small  opening  is  left  for 
iIh^  salmon  to  pass.  Around  this  opening  the 
Indians  station  tliemselves  on  small  rafts,  and  ply 
^heir  spears  with  great  success. 

The  table  lands  so  common  in  this  region  have 
a  sandy  soil,  inconsiderable  in  depth,  and  covered 
^ith  sage,  or  more  properly  speaking  wormwood. 
Below  this   is  a  level  stratum  of  rock,  riven  oc- 


,      r 

i 


'Hi 


i!  I 


r    -ii 


444 


n ONNE  VILLETS  AD  VENTURES. 


casionally  by  frightful  chasms.  The  whole  plain 
rises  as  it  approaches  the  river,  and  terminates 
with  high  and  broken  cliffs,  difficult  to  pass,  and 
in  many  places  so  precipituous  that  it  is  impos- 
sible, for  days  together,  to  get  down  to  the 
water's  edge  to  give  drink  to  the  horses.  This 
obliges  the  traveller  occasionally  to  abandon  the 
vicinity  of  the  river,  and  make  a  wide  sweep  into 
the  interior. 

It  was  now  far  in  the  month  of  July,  and  the 
party  suffered  extremely  from  sultry  weather  and 
dusty  travelling.  The  flies  and  gnats,  too,  were 
extremely  troublesome  to  the  horses ;  especially 
when  keeping  along  the  edge  of  the  river  where 
it  runs  between  low  sand-banks.  Whenever  the 
travellers  encamped  in  the  afternoon,  the  horses 
retired  to  the  gravelly  shores  and  remained  there, 
without  attempting  to  feed,  until  the  cool  of  the 
evening.  As  to  the  travellers,  they  plunged  into 
the  clear  and  cool  current,  to  wash  away  the  dust 
of  the  road,  and  refresh  themselves  after  the 
'  heat  of  the  day.  The  nights  were  always  cool 
and  pleasant. 

At  one  place  where  they  encamped  for  some 
time,  the  river  was  nearly  five  hundred  yards 
wide,  and  studded  with  grassy  islands,  adorned 
with  groves  of  willow  and  cotton-wood.  Here 
the  Indians  were  assembled  in  great  numbers, 
and  had  barricaded  the  channels  between  the  isl- 
ands, to  enable  them  to  spear  the  salmon  with 
greater  facility.  They  were  a  timid  race,  and 
seemed  unaccustomed  to  the  sight  of  white  men. 
Entering  one    of  the    huts,   CapLiin   Bonneville 


^' 


THE  INDIAN   GIRL. 


445 


3,  too,  were 


found  the  inhabitants  just  proceeding  to  cook  a 
fine  sahnon.  It  is  put  into  a  pot  filled  with  co\d 
water,  and  hung  over  tlie  fire.  The  moment 
the  water  begins  to  boil,  the  fish  is  considered 
cooked. 

Taking  his  seat  unceremoniously,  and  lighting 
his  pipe,  the  captain  awaited  the  cooking  of  the 
fish,  intending  to  invite  himself  to  the  repast. 
The  owner  of  the  hut  seemed  to  take  his  intru- 
sion in  good  part.  While  conversing  with  him, 
the  captain  felt  something  move  behind  him,  and 
turn  in  jT  round  and  removing  a  few  skins  and  old 
buffalo  robes,  discovered  a  young  ^rl,  about  four- 
teen years  of  age,  crouched  beneath,  who  di- 
rected her  large  black  eyes  fiill  in  his  face,  and 
continued  to  gaze  in  mute  surprise  and  terror. 
The  captain  endeavored  to  dispel  her  fears,  and 
drawing  a  bright  ribbon  from  his  pocket,  at- 
tempted repeatedly  to  tie  it  round  her  neck. 
She  jerked  back  at  each  attempt,  uttering  a 
sound  very  much  like  a  snarl ;  nor  could  all  the 
blandishments  of  the  captain,  albeit  a  pleasant, 
good-looking,  and  somewhat  gallant  man,  suc- 
ceed in  conquering  the  shyness  of  the  savage 
little  beauty.  His  attentions  were  now  turned 
to  the  parents,  whom  he  presented  with  an  awl 
and  a  little  tobacco,  and  having  thus  secured  tlieii 
good  will,  continued  to  smoke  his  pipe  and  watch 
the  salmon.  While  thus  seated  near  the  thresh- 
liold,  an  urchin  of  the  family  approached  the 
door,  but  catching  a  sight  of  the  strange  guest, 
ran  off  screammjr  with  terror,  and  ensconced 
himself  behind  the  long  straw  at  the  back  of  the 
but. 


M       ! 


I 


In, 


ilSII 


446 


B  ON  NIC  VILL  hrS  AD  VAN  T  URES. 


Desirous  to  dispel  entirely  this  timiraty,  and 
to  open  a  trnde  wit.li  the  simple  inhal)itants  of 
the  hut,  who,  he  did  not  doubt,  had  furs  some- 
where concealed,  the  cajitain  now  drew  forth 
that  grand  lure  in  the  eyes  of  the  savage,  a 
pocket  mirror.  The  sight  of  it  was  irresistible. 
After  examiniuiT  it  for  a  lonij  time  with  wonder 
and  admiration,  they  produced  a  muskrat  skin, 
and  offered  it  in  exchange.  I'lie  captain  shook 
liis  liead ;  but  purchased  i'.\'j  sVin  for  a  cou})le  of 
buttons — superfluous  tri.  '  ets  ;  as  the  worthy 
lord  of  the  hovel  had  neither  co:  nor  breeches 
on  which  to  place  them. 

The  mirror  still  continued  the  great  object  of 
desire,  particularly  in  the  eyes  of  the  old  house- 
wife, who  i)roduce(\  a  pot  of  parched  flour  and  a 
string  of  biscuit  roots.  These  procured  her  some 
trifle  in  return  ;  but  could  not  command  the  pur- 
chase of  the  mirror.  The  salmon  being  now 
completely  cooked,  they  all  joined  heartily  in 
sup[)er.  A  bounteous  portion  was  (lei)osite<l 
before  the  cajitain  by  the  old  woman,  upon  some 
fresh  grass,  which  served  instead  of  a  platter ; 
and  never  had  he  tasted  a  salmon  boiled  so  com- 
pletely to  his  fancy. 

Su[)j)er  being  over,  the  captain  lighted  his  pii)e 
and  passed  it  to  his  host,  who,  inhaling  the 
smoke,  puffed  it  through  his  nostrils  so  assidu- 
ously, that  in  a  little  while  his  head  manifested 
signs  of  confusion  and  dizziness.  Beinjj  satis- 
fied,  by  this  time,  of  the  kindly  and  companion- 
able qualities  of  the  caj)tain,  he  became  easy  and 
communicative ;  and  at  length   hhited  something 


TROUBLES   OF  AN  KVIL    CONSCIESCE.     447 


li'iity,  and 
hiUiutg  of 
irs  some- 
row   forth 
savage,   a 
rresistible. 
th  wonder 
ikrat  skin, 
tain  shook 
,  couple  of 
)c    worthy 
3r  breeches 

Lt  object  of 
;  old  house- 
flour  and  a 
m1  her  some 
nd  the  pur- 
)cing   now 
leartily   in 
deposited 
upon  some 
a  platter; 
ed  so  com- 

ted  his  pipe 
nhaling  the 
s  so  assidu- 
manifested 

>ehig  satis- 
companion- 
ne  easy  and 
I  something 


about  cxchanmnf;  beaver  skins  for  liorsos.  Tho 
captain  at  once  offered  to  dispose  of  liis  steed, 
which  stood  fastened  at  the  door.  The  bargain 
was  soon  concluded,  whereu])on  the  Indian,  re- 
moving a  pile  of  bushes  under  which  his  valu- 
ables were  concealed,  drew  forth  the  number  of 
skins  agreed  upon  as  the  price. 

Shortly  afte'<vurds,  some  of  the  captain's  peo- 
ple coming  up,  he  ordered  another  horse  to  be 
saddled,  and  mounting  it  took  his  departure  from 
the  hut,  after  distributing  a  few  trifling  presents 
anioni;  its  simple  inhabitants.  Durin<j  all  tho 
time  of  his  visit,  the  little  Indian  girl  had  kept 
her  large  black  eyes  fixed  uj)on  him,  almost  with- 
out winking,  vvatcliing  every  movement  with  awe 
and  wonder ;  and  as  he  rode  off.  remained  gazing 
after  him,  motionless  as  a  statue.  Her  father, 
however,  delighted  with  his  new  acquaintance, 
mounted  his  newly  purchased  horse,  and  foilowiid 
in  the  train  of  the  captain,  to  whom  he  continued 
to  be  a  faithful  and  useful  adherent  during  his 
sojourn  in  the  neiijliborhood. 

The  cowardly  efforts  of  an  evil  conscience 
were  evidenced  in  the  conduct  of  one  of  the 
captain's  men,  who  had  been  in  the  Californian 
expedition.  During  all  their  intercourse  with 
the  harmless  people  of  this  place,  he  had  mani- 
fested uneasiness  and  anxiety.  ^Vliile  his  com- 
panions mingled  freely  and  joyously  with  the 
natives,  he  went  about  with  a  restless,  suspicious 
look,  scrutinizing  every  painted  form  and  face, 
und  starting  often  at  the  sudden  a|>in-()ach  of 
some  meek  and  inotfensive  savage,  who  regarded 


i 


f 


ff 


448 


B  ONNE  VJLLl'TS  A  D  VJCN  TURES. 


him  with  reverenco  as  a  superior  being.  Yet 
this  was  ordinarily  a  bold  fellow,  who  never 
flmched  from  danger,  nor  turned  pale  at  the 
prospeet  of  a  battle.  At  length  he  requested 
permission  of  Captain  Bonneville  to  keep  out  of 
the  way  of  these  j)eo[)le  entirely.  Their  strikiug 
resemblance,  he  said,  to  the  people  of  Ogden's 
Kiver,  made  him  continually  fear  that  some 
among  them  might  have  seen  h*m  in  that  expe- 
dition, and  might  seek  an  opportunity  of  re- 
venge. P2ver  after  this,  while  they  remained  in 
this  neighborhood,  he  would  skulk  out  of  the 
way  and  keep  aloof  when  any  of  the  native  in- 
liabitants  approached.  "  Such,"  observes  Captain 
Bonneville,  "  is  the  effect  of  self-reproach,  even 
upon  the  roving  trapper  in  the  wilderness,  who 
has  little  else  to  fear  than  the  stings  of  his  own 
guilty  conscieuce." 


'^\ 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 

Outfit,  of  a  trapper.  —  Kisks  to  which  ho  is  subjected  — T'art- 
uersliip  of  trappers.  —  Kninityof  Iii<lians.  —  Distant  smoke. 
—  A  couulry  on  tire.  —  (j,iin  Creek.  —  (jraiid  Koncl.  —  Kino 
pastures.  —  Terplexities  in  a  auioky  country.  — ConHugra< 
tion  of  forcbts. 

r  had  been  the  intention  of  Captahi 
Bonneville,  in  descending  along  Snake 
River,  to  scatter  his  trappers  upon  the 
smaller  streams.  In  tills  way,  a  range  of  country 
is  trapped  by  small  detachments  from  a  main 
body.  The  outfit  of  a  trapj)er  is  generally  a 
rifle,  a  pound  of  powder,  and  four  pounds  of 
lead,  with  a  bullet  mould,  seven  traps,  au  axe,  a 
hatchet,  a  knife  and  awl,  a  camp  kettle,  two 
blankets,  and,  where  supplies  are  plenty,  seven 
pounds  of  flour.  lie  has,  generally,  two  or 
three  horses,  to  carry  himself,  and  his  baggage 
and  peltries.  Two  trappers  commonly  go  to- 
gether, for  the  purposes  of  mutual  assistance  and 
support ;  a  larger  party  could  not  easily  esca})e 
the  eyes  of  the  Indians.  It  is  a  service  of  peril, 
and  even  more  so  at  present  than  formerly,  since 
they  have  got  into  the  habit  of  trafficking  peltries 
with  the  traders,  have  learnt  the  vahie  of  the 
beaver,  and  look  upon  the  trappers  as  poachers, 
who    are   filching  the  riches  from  their  streams 

29 


mmm 


I 


I  ■ 


m 


i  t 


ii 


UlliM  ■   > 


450 


B ONNE  VILLE'A  AD  \  ENTURK8, 


and  interfering  witli  their  market.  They  made 
no  hesitation,  therefore,  to  murder  tlie  Holitary 
trapi)er,  and  thus  (Usstroy  a  coni[)etitor,  vvliilo 
they  possess  themselves  of  his  sj)oils.  It  is  with 
regret  we  add,  too,  that  this  hostility  lias  in  many 
eases  been  instigated  by  traders,  desirous  of  in* 
juring  their  rivals,  but  who  have  themselves 
often  reaped  the  fruits  of  the  misehief  they  havo 
sown. 

When  tv/o  trappers  undertake  any  considera- 
ble stream,  their  mode  of  proeeeding  is  to  hide 
their  horses  in  some  lonely  glen  where  they  can 
graze  unobserved.  They  then  build  a  small  hut, 
dig  out  a  canoe  from  a  cotton-wood  tree,  and  in 
this  poke  along  shore  silently  in  the  evening, 
and  set  their  traps.  These  they  revisit  in  the 
same  silent  way  at  daybreak.  When  they  take 
any  beaver,  they  bring  it  home,  skin  it,  stretch 
the  skin  on  sticks  to  dry,  and  feast  upon  the 
Hesh.  The  body,  hung  up  before  the  fire,  turns 
by  its  own  weight,  and  is  roasted  in  a  superior 
style ;  the  tail  is  the  trapper's  titbit ;  it  is  cut  off, 
put  on  the  end  of  a  stick,  and  toasted,  and  it  con- 
sidered even  a  greater  dainty  than  the  tongue  or 
the  marrow-bone  of  a  buffalo. 

With  all  their  silence  and  caution,  however, 
the  poor  trappers  cannot  always  escape  their 
hawk-eyed  enemies.  Their  trail  has  been  dis- 
covered, perhaps,  and  followed  up  for  many  a 
mile  ;  or  their  smoke  has  been  seen  curling  up 
out  of  the  secret  glen,  or  has  been  scented  by  the 
savages,  whose  sense  of  smell  is  almost  as  acuie 
its  that  of  sight.      Sometimes   they  are  pounu;>d 


I A 


A    COUNTRY   ON  FIRE, 


451 


upon  wlioii  in  tho  net  of  sotting  tlicir  imps  ;  at 
other  times,  they  are  roused  IVoni  liieir  sleep  hy 
the  horri'l  war- whoop  ;  or,  perhaps,  have  a  hullet 
or  an  arrow  whisthni^  about  their  ears,  in  the 
midst  of  one  of  tlieir  beaver  ban(picts.  In  this 
way  they  are  pickf^d  off,  from  time  to  time,  and 
nothinj^  is  iiuown  of  them,  until,  perehance,  their 
b()iie«  are  found  bleachin*^  in  some  h)nely  ravine, 
or  on  tiie  banks  of  some  nameless  stream,  which 
from  that  time  is  called  after  them.  INIany  of 
the  small  streams  beyond  the  mountains  thus  per- 
petuate the  names  of  unfortunate  trap[)ers  that 
have  been  murdered  on  their  banks. 

A  knowledge  of  these  dangers  deterred  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  in  the  present  instance,  from  de- 
taching small  parties  of  trappers  as  he  had  in- 
tended ;  for  his  scouts  brought  him  word  that 
formidable  bands  of  the  Ban  neck  Indians  were 
lying  on  the  Boisee  and  Payette  Kivers,  at  no 
great  distance,  so  that  they  would  be  apt  to 
detect  and  cut  olF  any  stragglers.  It  behooved 
him,  also,  to  keep  his  party  together,  to  guard 
against  any  predatory  attack  upon  the  main 
body  :  he  continued  on  his  way,  therefore,  with- 
out dividing  his  forces.  And  fortunate  it  was 
that  he  did  so ;  for  in  a  little  while,  he  encoun- 
tered one  of  those  plienomena  of  tho  western 
wilds  that  would  effectn;dly  have  prevented  his 
scattered  people  from  in  <ling  each  other  again. 
In  a  word,  it  was  the  season  of  setting  fire  to 
tlie  prairies.  As  he  advanced,  he  began  to  per- 
ceive great  clouds  of  smoke  at  a  distance,  rising 
by  degrees,  and  spreading  over  the  whole  face  of 


! 


iiJi 


imIi; 


mm 


452 


BOSNEVlLLt:S  ADVENTURES. 


the  country.  The  atmosphere  became  dry  and 
surcharged  'vitii  murky  vai)or,  parcliing  to  the 
Bkhi,  and  irritating  to  the  eyes.  When  travel- 
ling among  the  hills,  they  could  scarcely  discern 
objects  p.t  the  distance  of  a  few  paces ;  indeed, 
the  least  exertion  of  the  vision  was  j)ainful. 
There  was  evidently  some  vast  conflagration  in 
the  direction  towards  which  they  were  proceed- 
ing ;  it  was  as  y».i  at  a  great  distance,  and  dar- 
ing the  day  they  could  only  see  the  smoke  rishig 
in  larger  and  denser  volumes,  and  rolling  forth 
in  an  innnense  canopy.  At  night,  the  skies  were 
all  glowing  with  the  reflection  of  t.nseen  fires  ; 
hanging  in  an  immense  body  of  lurid  light,  high 
above  the  horizon. 

Having  reacliwl  Gun  Creek,  an  important 
stream  coming  from  the  left,  Captain  Bonneville 
turned  up  its  course,  to  traverse  the  mounUiins 
and  avoid  the  greal  Ijend  of  Snake  River.  Being 
now  out  of  the  range  of  the  Bannecks,  he  sent 
out  his  people  in  all  directions  to  hunt  the  ante- 
lope for  present  supplies ;  keeping  the  dried 
meats  for  places  where  game  might  be  sciirce. 

During  four  di\ys  that  the  party  were  ascend- 
ing Gun  Creek,  the  smoke  continued  to  increase 
BO  rapidly  that  it  was  impossibie  Xjo  distinguish 
the  face  of  the  country  and  ascertain  landmarks. 
Fortunately  the  travellers  xel!  upon  an  Indian 
trail,  which  Iwl  tliem  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Fourche  de  Glace,  or  Ice  River,  sometimes  called 
*,he  Giund  Uond.  Here  they  found  all  the 
plains  and  valleys  wrapped  in  one  vast  conflagra- 
tion ;  wliich  swept  over  the  long  grass  in  billows 


FISHING   ON  GRAND  ROND. 


453 


of  flame,  shot  up  every  bush  and  tree,  rose  in 
great  cohuiins  from  the  groves,  and  sent  uj)  clouds 
of  smoke  that  darkened  the  atmosphere.  To 
avoid  this  sea  of  lire,  tlie  travelhirs  'lad  to  pursue 
their  course  close  along  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  but  the  irritiition  from  the  smoke  con- 
tinued to  be  tormenting. 

The  country  about  the  head  waters  of  the 
Grand  Rond  spreads  out  into  bi'oad  and  level 
prairies,  exti'emely  fertile,  and  watered  by  moun- 
tain springs  and  rivulets.  These  prairies  are 
resorted  to  by  small  bands  of  the  Skynses,  to 
pasture  their  horses  as  well  as  to  baiKpiet  upon 
the  salmon  which  abound  in  the  neiiibborini' 
waters.  They  take  these  fish  in  great  (quantities 
and  without  the  least  dilFicnlty ;  simj)ly  taking 
them  out  of  the  water  with  their  hands,  as  they 
flounder  and  struiriile  in  the  numerous  lonjx  shoals 
of  the  principal  streams.  At  the  time  the  trav- 
ellers passed  over  these  prairies,  some  of  tho 
narrow  deep  streams  by  which  they  were  inter- 
sected were  completely  ohoked  with  salmon, 
which  they  took  in  great  numbers.  The  wolves 
and  bears  frequent  these  streams  at  this  season, 
to  avail  themselves  of  these  gn^at  fisheries. 

The  travellers  continued,  for  many  days,  to 
experience  great  dilHculties  and  discomforts  from 
\his  wide  conflagration,  which  seemed  to  embrace 
Uie  whole  wilderness.  The  sun  was  for  a  great 
part  of  the  time  obscured  by  the  smoke,  and  tho 
oftiest  mountains  were  hidden  from  view.  Blun- 
dering along  in  this  region  of  mist  and  uncer- 
tiv  nty,  they  were  frequently  obliged  to  make  long 


1 

—  - 

1 

,|  ,       .- 

! 
1 

■ 

i' 

I  I 


w" 


!  ; 


i    ll 

i(           1 

454 


BOy NEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


circuits,  to  avoid  obstacles  which  they  could  not 
perceive  until  close  upon  them.  Tlie  Indian 
trails  were  their  safest  guides,  for  though  they 
Bonietimes  appeared  to  lead  them  out  of  their 
direct  course,  they  always  conducted  them  to  the 
j)asses. 

On  the  2Gth  of  August  they  reached  the  head 
of  the  Way-lee-way  River.  IKsre,  in  a  valley 
of  the  mountains  through  which  this  head  water 
makes  its  way,  they  found  a  band  of  the  Skynses, 
who  were  extremely  sociable,  and  appeared  to  be 
well  disposed,  and  as  they  spoke  the  Nez  Perce 
language,  an  intercourse  was  easily  kept  up  with 
them. 

In  the  pastures  on  the  bank  of  this  stream, 
Capt:iin  Bonneville  encamped  for  a  time,  for  the 
purpose  of  recruiting  the  strength  of  his  horses. 
Scouts  were  now  sent  out  to  explore  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  search  for  a  convenient 
pass  through  the  mountjiins  towards  the  AValla- 
mut  or  Multnomah.  After  an  absence  of  twenty 
days,  they  returned  weary  and  discouraged.  They 
had  been  harassed  and  perplexed  i'l  rugged 
mountain  defiles,  where  their  progress  was  con- 
tin  uall}'^  impeded  by  rocks  and  precipices.  Often 
they  had  been  obliged  to  travel  along  the  edges 
of  frightful  ravines,  where  a  false  step  would 
have  been  fatixl.  In  one  of  these  passes,  a  horse 
fell  from  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  and  would 
have  been  dashed  to  pieces  had  he  not  lodged 
among  the  branches  of  a  tree,  from  which  he 
was  extriciited  with  great  difficulty.  These,  how- 
ever, were  not  the  worst  of  their  dillicultios  and 


ilijl 


CONFLAGRATION   OF  FORESTS. 


455 


perils.  The  great  coiiflagnitioTi  of  the  country, 
wliich  had  harassed  the  main  party  in  its  inareli, 
was  still  more  awful,  the  further  this  exploring 
party  proceeded.  Tlie  flames,  vvhieli  swe[)t  rap- 
idly over  tlie  light  vegetation  of  the  prairies, 
assumed  a  fiercer  character,  and  took  a  stronger 
hold  amidst  the  wooded  glens  and  ravines  of  the 
mountiiins.  Some  of  the  deep  gorges  and  deliles 
sent  up  sheets  of  flame,  and  clouds  of  lurid 
smoke,  and  sparks  and  cinders,  that  in  the  night 
made  them  resemble  the  craters  of  volcanos.  Tho 
groves  and  forests,  too,  which  crowned  the  cliffs, 
shot  up  their  towering  columns  of  fire,  and  added 
to  the  furnace  glow  of  the  mountains.  With 
these  stupendous  sights  were  combined  the  rush- 
ing blasts  caused  by  the  rarefied  air,  which  roared 
and  howled  through  the  narrow  glens,  and 
whirled  forth  the  smoke  and  flames  in  impetuous 
wreaths.  Ever  and  anon,  too,  was  heard  tho 
crash  of  faUimx  trees,  sometimes  tumblinfj  from 
crags  and  precipices,  with  tremendous  sounds. 

In  the  daytime,  tho  mountains  were  wrapped 
in  smoke,  so  dense  and  blitiding  that  the  ex- 
plorers, if  by  chance  they  separated,  could  only 
find  each  other  by  shouting.  Often,  too,  they 
had  to  grope  their  way  through  the  yet  burning 
forestiS,  in  constant  perd  from  the  limbs  and 
trunks  of  trees,  which  frecjuently  fell  across  their 
path.  At  length  they  gave  up  the  attempt  to 
find  a  pass  as  hopeless,  under  actual  circum- 
stances, and  made  their  way  back  to  the  camp  to 
report  their  failure. 


i 


it'i    i 


i'l 


CHAFfER  XLV, 


Ill 


The  Skynaes  —  thoir  trallic  —  Imnllnp  —  food  —  borses.  —  A 
liorsa-race. —  Devotional  freling.s  of  the  Skyrisea,  N»;z 
Pertt^s,  and  Flatheada.  —  Prayers.  —  Kxhortutions  —  A 
preacher  on  hcraeback.  —  Effect  of  religion  on  the  manners 
of  the  tribes.  —  A  new  light. 

jURTNG  the  absence  of  this  detachment, 
a  socijible  intercourse  had  l)een  kept  up 
between  the  main  party  and  the  Skyn- 
Bes,  who  had  removed  into  the  neii^hborhood  of 
the  camp.  These  people  dwell  about  the  waters 
of  the  Way-lee-way  and  the  adjacent  country,  and 
trade  regularly  with  the  liudson's  Bay  Company  ; 
generally  giving  horses  in  exchange  for  tho 
articles  of  which  they  stand  in  need.  They  bring 
beaver  skuis,  also,  to  the  trading  posts ;  not  pro- 
cured by  trappifig,  but  by  a  course  of  inr<!rnal 
traffic  with  the  shy  and  ignorant  Shoshokoes  md 
Too-el-iatns.  who  keep  hi  distant  and  unfre- 
quented parts  of  the  country,  and  will  not 
venture  near  #m^  trading  houses.  The  Skynses 
hunt  the  deer  aiwi  elk  occiisionally ;  and  depend, 
for  a  part  of  the  yfi'dr,  on  fishing.  Their  main 
subsistence,  however,  w  upon  roots,  especially  the 
^amash.  This  bullous  r(X)t  is  said  to  be  of  a 
delicious  Havor,  and  highly  nutritious.  The 
women  dig  it  up  in  ^resM;  quantities,  steam  it,  and 


INDIAN  DEVOTION'3. 


457 


deposit  il  in  oiiciies  for  winter  provisions.  Ih 
grovv.v  spontaneously,  and  absolutely  covers  the 
plains;. 

Tiiis  tribe  were  comfortably  clarl  and  equipped. 
They  had  a  few  rifles  among  them,  and  were 
extremely  desirous  of  barterinf;  for  those  of 
Ca})tain  Bonneville's  men,  offerini^  a  couple  of 
goo(<  running  horses  for  a  light  rifle.  Their 
first-rate  horses,  however,  were  not  to  be  pro- 
cured from  them  on  any  terms.  They  almost 
invariably  use  ponie'  ;  but  of  a  breed  in  finitely 
superior  to  any  in  the  United  States.  They  are 
fond  of  trying  their  speed  and  bottom,  and  of 
betting  upon  them. 

As  Captain  Bonneville  was  desirous  of  judging 
of  the  comparative  merit  of  their  horses,  lie 
purchased  one  of  their  racers,  and  had  a  trial  of 
speed  between  that,  an  American,  and  a  Shosho- 
nie,  which  were  supposed  to  be  well  matched. 
The  race-course  was  for  the  distance  of  one  mile 
and  a  half  out  and  back.  For  the  first  half  tnile, 
the  American  took  the  lead,  by  a  few  hands ;  but, 
losing  his  wind,  soon  fell  far  behind,  leaving  the 
Shoshouie  and  Sky  use  to  contend  together.  For 
a  mile  and  a  half,  they  went  head  and  head ;  but 
at  the  turn  the  Skynse  took  the  lead,  and  won 
the  race  with  great  ease,  scarce  drawing  a  quick 
breath  when  all  was  over. 

The  Skynses,  like  the  Nez  Perces  and  the 
Flatheadfi,  have  a  strong  devotional  feeling, 
which  has  been  successfuly  cultivated  by  some  of 
the  resident  personages  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.       Sunday    is    invariably    kept    sacred 


'■% 


1 


1  '<  t 


458 


B  ONNE  VILLFPS  A D  VEN T  UR  ES. 


among  these  tribes.  They  will  not  raise  their 
eamp  on  that  day,  unless  in  extreme  wises  of 
danger  or  hunger:  neither  will  they  hunt,  nor 
fish,  nor  trade,  nor  perform  any  kin<l  of  labor  on 
that  day.  A  part  of  it  is  passed  in  prayer  and 
religious  ceremonies.  Some  chief,  who  is  g,ener- 
ally,  at  the  same  time,  what  is  called  a  ''  meuicmo 
man,"  assembles  the  community.  After  invoking 
blessings  from  the  Deity,  he  addresses  the  assem- 
blage ;  exhorting  them  to  good  conduct ;  to  bo 
diligent  in  providing  for  their  families ;  to  abstain 
from  lying  and  stealing ;  to  avoid  (piarrelling  or 
cheating  in  their  i>lay,  and  to  be  just  and  hospit- 
able to  all  strangers  who  may  be  among  them. 
Prayers  and  exhortjitions  are  also  made,  early  in 
the  morning,  on  week  days.  Sometimes,  all  this 
is  done  by  the  chief,  fi'om  lu^rseback ;  moving 
slowly  about  the  cjimp,  with  his  hat  on,  and 
uttering  his  exhortations  with  a  loud  voice.  On 
all  occasions,  the  bystanders  listen  with  profound 
af  U;ntion ;  and  at  the  end  of  every  sentence 
re.  pjnd  one  word  in  unison  ;  apf»arently  e(juiva- 
lent  to  an  amen.  While  (hese  piuyers  and  ex- 
hortations are  going  on,  (}\'('vy  employment  in 
the  camp  is  suspended.  U  an  Indiiii  is  rltling  by 
the  place,  he  dismounts,  holds  his  horse,  ani 
attt  iids  witii  reverence  until  all  is  done.  When 
/he  'jhief  has  finish''!  hi^:  T)rj)yer  or  exhortation, 
!ie  says,  "  I  have  'leiie,"  upon  which  there  is  a 
general  exclamation  m  unison . 

With  these  religicjus  seivico^,  probably  derived 
from  the  white  men,  the  tribes  above-mentioned, 
minirle    some   of  their   oil   Indian    ceremouiiils : 


EFFECl    OF  RELIGION  ON  FLATHEADS.    459 


such  as  (lancing  to  the  ca<lence  of  a  song  or 
ballad,  wlii(;h  is  gt'iieially  done  in  ii  large  lodge 
piovi<led  tor  the  purpose.  Besides  Sundays,  they 
likewise  observe  the  cardinal  holidays  of  the 
llonian  Catholic  C'hurch. 

Whoever  has  introduced  thtse  simple  forms  of 
relimon  anioni'  these  poor  savai'i's,  has  evidently 
understood  their  characters  and  c^ipacities,  and 
effected  a  great  melioration  of  their  manners. 
Of  this  we  s{)eak  not  merely  from  the  testimony 
of  Captain  Honneville,  but,  likewise,  from  that 
of  Mr.  Wyeth,  who  passed  some  months  in  a 
travellinij^  canii)  of  the  Flatheads.  "  Durinix  the 
time  I  have  been  with  them,"  sa^'s  he,  *'  1  have 
never  known  an  instance  of  theft  amoni'  them ; 
the  least  thing,  even  to  a  l)ea<l  or  j>in,  is  brought 
to  you,  if  f(jund ;  and,  often,  things  that  have  been 
thrown  away.  Neither  have  1  known  any  (piar- 
relling,  nor  lying.  This  absence  of  all  quarrelling 
the  more  surj)rised  me,  when  I  came  to  see  the 
various  occasions  that  would  have  given  rise  to  it 
amoniiC  the  whites  :  the  crowdin*'  toj^ethei'  of  from 
twelve  to  eighteeii  hundred  horses,  which  have  to 
be  driven  into  camp  at  night,  to  be  picketed ;  to 
be  packed  in  the  morning ;  the  giithering  of  fuel 
in  places  where  it  is  extremely  scanty.  All  this, 
however,  is  done  without  confusion  or  dis- 
turbance. 

"  1  hey  have  a  mild,  playful,  laughing  disposi- 
tion ;  and  this  is  portrayed  in  their  countenances. 
They  are  i)olite,  and  unol>tru.sive.  AVhen  one 
speaks,  the  rest  pay  strict  attention  :  when  he  is 
done,  another    assents    by  *  yes,'  or   dissents   by 


f 

If 


i!' 


ill 

V. 


h 


% 


460 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


*  no  ;  * 


and  then  states  his  reasons,  which  are 
listened  to  with  equal  attention.  Even  the  cliil- 
dren  are  more  peaceable  tlian  other  children.  I 
never  heard  an  anij^ry  word  among  them,  nor  any 
(jaarrelling,  altlioiigh  tliere  were,  at  least,  (ivo 
hundred  of  them  together,  and  continually  at 
l)luy.  With  all  this  quietness  of  spirit,  they  are 
brave  when  put  to  tlie  test;  and  are  an  over- 
match for  an  equal  number  of  Blackfeet. 

The  foregoing  observations,  though  gathered 
from  Mr.  VVyeth  as  relative  to  the  Flatheads, 
apply,  in  the  main,  to  the  Skynses  also.  Cap- 
tiiin  Bonneville,  durhig  his  sojourn  with  the  lat- 
ter, took  constant  occasion,  in  conversing  with 
their  principal  men,  to  encourage  them  in  the 
cultivation  of  moral  and  religious  habits ;  draw- 
ing a  comparison  between  their  peaceable  and 
comfortable  course  of  life,  and  that  of  other  tribes, 
and  attributing  it  to  their  superior  sense  of  mor- 
ality and  religion.  lie  frequently  attended  their 
religious  services,  with  his  people ;  always  en- 
joining on  the  la* '«Dr  the  most  reverential  deport- 
ment ;  and  he  observed  that  the  poor  Indians 
were  always  pleased  to  have  tlie  white  men 
present. 

The  disposition  of  these  tribes  is  evidently 
favorable  to  a  considerable  degree  of  civilization. 
A  few  formers,  settled  among  them,  might  lead 
them.  Captain  Bonneville  thinks,  to  till  the 
earth  and  cultivate  grain ;  the  country  of  the 
Skynses,  and  Nez  Perces,  is  admirably  adapted 
for  the  raising  of  cattle.  A  Christian  missionary 
or  two,  and  some  trifling  assistance  from  govern- 


.     ■■  Jtt^ 


INDIAN  SUNDAY  RECREATIONS.        461 


ineiit,  to  protect  them  from  tlio  predatory  and 
warlike  tribes,  might  hiy  tlie  I'oiiiKhition  of  a 
Christian  people  in  tlie  midst  of  the  great  west- 
ern wilderness,  who  would  "  wear  the  Americuna 
near  their  hearts." 

We  must  not  omit  to  observe,  however,  in 
qualification  of  the  sanctity  of  this  Sabbath  in 
the  wilderness,  that  these  tribes,  who  are  all 
ardently  addicted  to  gambling  and  horse-racing, 
make  Sunday  a  })eculiar  day  for  recreations  of 
the  kind,  not  deeming  them  in  any  wise  out  of 
season.  After  i)rayers  and  })ious  ceremonials  are 
over,  there  is  scarce  an  hour  in  the  day,  says 
Captain  Bonneville,  that  you  do  not  see  several 
horses  racing  at  full  speed ;  and  in  every  corner 
of  the  camp,  are  groups  of  gamblers,  ready  to 
stake  everything  upon  the  all-absorbing  game  of 
*'  hand."  The  Indians,  says  Wyeth,  appear  to 
enjoy  their  amusements  with  more  zest  than  tiie 
whites.  They  are  great  gamblers ;  and,  in  pro- 
portion to  their  means,  play  bolder,  and  bet  higher 
than  white  men. 

The  cultivation  of  the  religious  feeling,  above 
noted  among  the  savages,  has  been,  at  times,  a 
convenient  policy  with  some  of  the  more  know- 
ing traders,  who  have  derived  great  credit  and 
mfluence  among  them,  by  being  considered 
"  medicine  men,"  that  is,  men  gifted  with  myste- 
rious knowledge.  This  feeling  is,  also,  at  times, 
played  upon  by  religious  charlatans  ;  who  are  to 
be  found  in  savage,  as  well  as  civilized  life.  One 
of  these  was  noted  by  Wyeth,  during  his  sojourn 
among  the  Flatheads.     A  new  great  man,  says 


w 

m  """""■" 

1 

\ 

1 

\. 

i 

\ 
p 

1                         ' 

1 

1, 

1 

I 

(■    ; 
\ 

!- 


m% 


H! 


4G2 


/? ONNE  VI LIE'S  A D  YEN  TURFS. 


he,  is  riHin<r  in  the  camp,  who  aims  at  i)o\ver  and 
sway.  Ho  covers  his  <lesi<^ns  under  the  arn[)lo 
cloak  of  relii^lon  — inenlcatin<;  some  new  doctrines 
and  ceremonials  amoiii^  those  who  are  more  sim- 
ple than  himself.  He  has  alri-ady  made  prose- 
lytes of  one  fifth  of  the  cump  ;  h(!ginning  by 
workin*^  on  the  women,  the  children,  and  tiie 
weak-min(l(Ml.  His  followt;rs  are  all  dancini^  on 
the  plain,  to  tlieir  own  vocal  nnisic.  Tlu;  mure 
knowin<jj  ones  of  the  trihe  look  on  and  lau^h, 
thinking  it  all  too  foolish  to  do  harm  ;  but  they 
will  soon  find  that  women,  children,  and  fools, 
form  a  large  majority  of  every  connnunlty,  and 
they  will  have  eventually  to  follow  the  jujw  light, 
or  be  considertid  among  the  profane.  As  soon 
as  a  preacher,  or  pseudo  prophet  of  the  kind  gets 
followers  enoui^h,  he  either  takes  connnand  of 
the  tribe,  or  brancthes  of!"  and  sets  up  for  an  iu« 
dependent  chief  and  "  medicine  man/' 


m 


CHAPTER  XLVL 


Scan.  i.  in  (lie  camp.  —  Ilefusal  of  sufijilies  by  the  Iltul.son'i 
Hay  C<;.i>paiiy.  —  CoiiMiict  oC  the  Fiidians.  —  A  liuiif^ry  re- 
treat.—  .I<»hi)  Day's  Hivcr.  —  The  lUiie  MdimtaiiiB.  —  Sal- 
mon lif-hin^  on  Snake  Kiver.  —  MessenpTs  from  tlie  (-row 
coimtry.  —  Hear  iJiver  VaMey. —  Immense  nii^ration  of 
huflalo. —  h.inijer  of  bulValo  huntin^^ — A  wounded  In- 
dian. —  Kutaw  Indians.  —  A  "surround"  of  antelopes. 

R0V18I0NS  were  now  giowinj^  scanty 
in  the  cnnip,  aiul  Captain  Boiinevillo 
found  it  nece.'^sary  to  seek  a  new  neigii- 
boiliood.  Taking  leave,  tlieref«)i'e,  of  hi.s  friends, 
the  Skynses,  he  set  off'  to  tlie  westward,  and, 
crossing  a  low  range  of  motnitains,  encamped  on 
the  head  waters^  of  tl»e  Ottolais.  Biiing  now 
within  thirty  miles  of  Fort  Wallah-Wallah,  the 
trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com})any,  he  sent 
a  small  detachment  of  men  thither,  to  purchase 
corn  for  the  subsistence  of  his  party.  The  men 
were  well  received  at  the  fort,  but  all  supj)lies  for 
their  camp  were  prom[)tly  refused.  Tempting  of- 
fers were  made  them,  however,  if  they  would  leave 
their  present  employ,  and  enter  into  the  service 
of  the  company;  but  they  were  not  to  be  seduced. 
AVhen  Caj;tain  Boinieville  saw  his  messengers 
retin'ii  empty-handed,  he  ordered  un  instant  move, 
for  llu'ie  was  imminent  danger  of  famine,  lie 
pushed   forward   down  the  course  of  liie  Ottolaia 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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464 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTUREa. 


4 


':\ 


which  runs  diagonal  to  the  Columbia,  and  falls 
into  it  about  fifty  miles  below  the  AVallah- Wal- 
lah. His  route  lay  through  a  beautiful  undulat- 
ing country,  covered  with  horses  belonging  to  the 
Skynses,  who  sent  thetn  there  for  pasturage. 

On  reaching  the  Columbia,  Captain  Bonneville 
hoped  to  open  a  trade  with  the  natives,  for  fish 
and  other  provisions,  but  to  his  surprise,  they 
kept  aloof,  and  even  hid  themselves  on  his  ap- 
proach. He  soon  discovered  that  they  were 
under  the  influence  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, who  had  forbidden  them  to  trade,  or  hold 
any  communion  with  him.  He  proceeded  along 
the  Columbia,  but  it  was  everywhere  the  same  ; 
not  an  article  of  provisions  was  to  be  obtained 
from  the  natives,  and  he  was,  at  length,  obliged 
to  kill  a  couple  of  his  horses  to  sustain  his  fam- 
ishing people.  He  now  came  to  a  halt,  and  con- 
sulted what  was  to  be  done.  The  broad  and 
beautiful  Columbia  lay  before  them,  smooth  cid 
unruffled  as  a  mirror ;  a  little  more  journey- 
ing would  take  them  to  its  lower  region  ;  to  the 
noble  valley  of  the  Wallamut,  their  projected 
winter-quarters.  To  advance  under  present  cir- 
cumstance^ would  be  to  court  starvation.  The 
resources  of  the  country  were  locked  against 
them,  by  the  influence  of  a  jealous  and  pow- 
erful monopoly.  If  they  reached  the  Walla- 
mut, they  could  scarcely  hope  to  obtain  sufficient 
flupplies  for  the  winter ;  if  they  lingered  any 
longer  in  tiie  country,  the  snows  would  gather 
upon  the  mountains  and  cut  off  their  retreat. 
I5y  hastening  their  return,  they  would  be  able  to 


\^^.  y 


^  '^ 


a,  and  falls 
rallah-Wal- 
iil  unclulat- 
iging  to  the 
Airage. 
I  Bonneville 
ives,  for  fish 
rpri^e,  they 
on   his  ap- 
tliey    were 
5  Bay  Coni- 
ade,  or  hold 
;eeded  along 
e  the  same  ; 
be  obtained 
[igth,  obliged 
ain  his  fara- 
alt,  and  con- 
broad    and 
smooth  c'ld 
re   journey- 
ion  ;  to  the 
ir    projected 
present  cir- 
^ation.     The 
;ked    against 
s  and    pow- 
the    Walla- 
lain  sufficient 
ingered   any 
ould  gather 
heir  retreat. 
Id  be.  able  to 


HARDSniPS   OF   THE  RETURN. 


465 


reach  the  Blue  Mountains  jist  in  time  to  find 
the  elk,  the  deer,  and  the  bigliorn ;  and  after 
they  liad  supplied  themselves  with  provisions,  they 
might  push  through  the  mountains,  before  they 
were  entirely  blocked  up  by  stiow.  Influenced 
by  these  considerations,  Captain  Bonneville  re- 
luctantly turned  his  back  a  second  time  on  the 
Columbia,  and  set  off  for  the  Blue  Mountains. 
He  took  his  course  up  John  Day's  River,  so 
called  from  one  of  the  hunters  in  the  original 
Astorian  enterprise.  As  famine  was  at  his  heels, 
he  travelled  fast,  and  reached  the  mountains  by 
the  1st  of  October.  He  entered  by  the  opening 
made  by  John  Day's  River ;  it  was  a  rugged 
and  difficult  defile,  but  he  and  his  men  had  be- 
come accustomed  to  hard  scrambles  of  the  kind. 
Fortunately,  the  September  rains  haJ  extin- 
guished the  fires  which  recently  spread  over  these 
regions ;  and  the  mountains,  no  longer  wrapped 
in  smoke,  now  revealed  all  their  grandeur  and 
sublimity  to  the  eye. 

They  were  disappointed  in  their  expectation 
of  finding  abundant  game  in  the  mountains ; 
large  bands  of  the  natives  had  passed  through, 
returning  from  tlieir  fishing  expeditions,  and 
had  driven  all  the  game  before  them.  It  was 
only  now  and  then  that  the  hunters  could  bring 
in  sufficient  to  keep  the  party  from  starva- 
tion. 

To  add  to  their  distress,  they  mistook  their 
route,  and  wandered  for  ten  days  among  high  and 
bald  hills  of  clay.  At  length,  after  much  per- 
plexity, they  made  their  way  to  the    banks  of 

m 


fff 

! 
t'  I 

In 


«■« 


m 


•f 


um^n 


I 


466 


B ONN-E Vr LIE'S  A  D  VENTURES. 


Snake  River,  following;  the  course  of  wliich, 
they  were  sure  to  reach  their  place  of  destina- 
tion. 

It  was  the  20th  of  October  when  they  found 
themselves  once  more  upon  this  noted  stream. 
The  Siioshokoes,  whom  they  had  met  witli  in 
Fuch  scanty  numbers  on  their  journey  down 
tlie  river,  now  absolutely  thronged  its  banks  tc 
{)rofit  by  the  abundance  of  salmon,  arid  lay  u[ 
a  stock  for  winter  provisions.  Scaffolds  werp 
everywhere  erected,  and  immense  quantities  of 
fish  drying  upon  them.  At  this  season  of  the 
year,  however,  the  salmon  are  extremely  poor, 
and  the  travellers  needed  their  keen  sauce  of  hun- 
ger to  give  them  a  relish. 

In  some  places  the  shores  were  completely 
covered  with  a  stratum  of  dead  salmon,  exhausted 
in  ascending  the  river,  or  destroyed  at  the  falls ; 
the  fetid  odor  of  which  tainted  the  air. 

It  was  not  until  the  travellers  reached  the 
head  waters  of  the  Portneuf,  that  they  really 
found  themselves  in  a  region  of  abundance. 
Here  the  buffalo  were  in  immense  herds ;  and 
here  they  remained  for  three  days,  slaying,  and 
cooking,  and  feasting,  and  indemnifying  them- 
selves by  an  enormous  carnival,  for  a  long  and 
hungry  Lent.  Their  horse''-  too,  found  good 
pasturage,  and  enjoyed  a  little  rest  after  a  severe 
spell  of  hard  travelling. 

During  this  period,  two  horsemen  arrived  at 
the  camp,  who  proved  to  be  messengers  sent  ex- 
press for  supplies  from  Montero's  party ;  which 
had  been  sent  to  beat  up  the  Crow  country  and 


\n 


ARRANGEMENTS  FOR    WINTERING.      467 


of   which, 
,f  destina- 

they  round 
ed  stream, 
let  with  in 
ruey  ^^wu 
LS  banks  tc 
and  lay  "I 
ffolds    were 


utintities 


of 


a:^on  of  the 
^emely  poor, 
ance  of  huu- 

3    completely 

on,  exhausted 

at  the  falls ; 

lir. 
reached    the 

they  really 
If    nbundance. 
3  herds;    and 
,  slaying,  t^i^ 
,ifying    them- 
r  a  long  and 
,  found    good 
after  a  severe 

len  arrived  at 
Ingprs  sent  ex- 
party;  which 
L  country  and 


Hie  Black  Ilills,  and  to  whiter  on  the  Arkansas. 
They  reported  that  all  was  well  with  the  })arty 
but  that  they  had  not  been  able  to  acccniplish 
the  whole  of  their  mission,  and  were  still  in  the 
Crow  country,  wiicre  they  should  remain  until 
joined  by  Captain  Bomieville  in  the  sprin»^. 
Tlie  captain  retained  the  messengers  with  him  until 
the  17th  of  November,  when,  having  reached  the 
caches  on  Bear  River,  and  procured  thence  the 
required  supplies,  he  sent  them  back  to  their 
party  ;  appointing  a  rendezvous  towards  the  last 
of  June  following,  on  the  forks  of  Wind  River 
Valley,  in  the  Crow  country. 

He  now  remained  several  days  encamped  near 
the  caclies,  and  havin:jj  discovered  a  small  band 
of  Shoshonies  in  his  neighborhood,  purchased 
from  them  lodges,  furs,  and  other  articles  of 
winter  comfort,  and  arnmged  witii  them  to  en- 
camp together  during  the  winter. 

The  place  designed  by  the  captain  for  the 
wintering  groutid  was  on  the  upper  part  of  Bear 
River,  some  distance  oif.  He  delayed  approach- 
ing it  as  long  as  possible,  in  order  to  avoid  driv- 
ing off  the  buffalo,  which  would  lie  needed  for 
winter  provis.'Oiis.  He  accordingly  moved  for- 
ward but  slowly,  merely  as  the  want  of  game 
and  grass  obliged  him  to  shift  his  position.  The 
weather  had  already  become  extremely  cold,  and 
the  snow  lay  to  a  considerable  depth.  To  enable 
the  horses  to  caiTy  as  much  dried  meat  as  possi- 
ble, he  caused  a  cache  to  be  made,  in  which  all 
the  baggage  that  could  be  spared  was  deposited. 
This  done,  ttie  party  continued  to  move  slowly 
towards  their  winter  quarters. 


I", 

)  ! 


IH! 


n 


!! 


i 


i 


468 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


They  were  not  doomed,  however,  to  suffer 
from  scarcity  during  the  present  winter.  Tlie 
people  upon  Snake  River  liaving  chased  off  tlie 
buffalo  before  the  snow  had  become  deep,  im- 
mense herds  now  came  trooping  over  the  moun- 
tains; forming  dark  masses  on  their  sides,  from 
wliich  their  deep-mouthed  bellowing  sounded  like 
the  low  peals  and  mutterings  from  a  gathering 
thunder-cloud.  In  effect,  the  cloud  broke,  and 
down  came  the  torrent  thutudering  into  the  val- 
ley. It  is  utterly  impossible,  according  to  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  effect 
produced  by  the  sight  of  such  countless  throngs 
of  animals  of  such  bulk  and  spirit,  all  rushing 
forward  as  if  swept  on  by  a  whirlwind. 

The  long  privation  which  the  travellers  had 
suffered  gave  uncommon  ardor  to  their  present 
hunting.  One  of  the  Indians  attached  to  the 
party,  finding  himself  on  horseback  in  the  midst 
of  the  buffaloes,  without  either  lifle,  or  bow  and 
arrows,  dashed  after  a  fine  cow  that  was  passing 
close  by  him,  and  plunged  his  knife  into  her  side 
with  such  lucky  aim  as  to  bring  her  to  the 
ground.  It  was  a  daring  deed ;  but  hunger  had 
made  him  almost  desperate. 

The  buffaloes  are  sometimes  tenacious  of  life, 
and  must  be  wounded  in  particular  parts.  A 
ball  striking  the  shagged  frontlet  of  a  bull,  pro- 
duces no  other  effect  than  a  toss  of  the  head, 
and  greater  exasperation ;  on  the  contrary,  a  ball 
striking  the  forehead  of  a  cow,  is  fatal.  Several 
instances  occurred  during  this  great  hunting  bout, 
of  bulls  fighting  furiously  after  having  received 


M 


5. 

to  suffer 
iter.  The 
sed  off  the 

deep,  im- 
the   nioun- 
sides,  from 
:)unded  like 
X  gathering 
broke,  and 
nto  the  val- 
ng  to   Cjip- 
•f  the  effect 
less  throngs 

all  rushing 

id. 

avellers  had 
heir   present 
ched    to  the 
in  the  midst 
or  bow  and 
was  passing 
nto  her  side 
her   to   the 
hunger  had 

[cious  of  life, 

Ir    parts.     A 

a  bull,  pro- 

)f  the  head, 

ttrary,  a  ball 

■al.     Several 

hunting  bout, 

ing  received 


THE   GOB  ED  HVNTER. 


469 


mortal  wounds.  Wyeth,  also,  was  witness  to  an 
instance  of  tlie  kind  wliile  encamped  witli  the 
Indians.  During;  a  i;rand  hunt  of  the  buffalo 
one  of  the  Indians  pressed  a  bull  so  closely  tiiat 
the  animal  turned  suddenly  upon  him.  His 
horse  stopped  short,  or  started  back,  and  threw 
him.  Before  he  could  rise,  the  bull  rushed  furi- 
ously upon  him,  and  gored  him  in  the  chest,  so 
that  his  breath  came  out  at  the  aperture.  Ke 
was  conveyed  back  to  the  camp,  and  his  wound 
was  dressed.  Giving  himself  up  for  slain,  he 
called  round  him  his  friends,  and  made  his  will 
by  word  of  mouth.  It  was  something  like  a 
death  chant,  and  at  the  end  of  Q\GYy  sentence 
those  around  responded  in  concord.  He  appeared 
no  ways  intimidated  jy  the  approach  of  death. 
*'  1  think,"  adds  Wyeth,  "  that  the  Indians  die 
better  than  the  white  men ;  perhaps,  from  having 
less  fear  about  the  future." 

The  buftalo  may  be  approached  very  near,  if 
the  hunter  keeps  to  the  leeward  ;  but  they  are 
quick  of  scent,  and  will  take  the  alarm  and  move 
off  from  a  party  of  hunters,  to  the  windward, 
even  when  two  miles  distant. 

The  vast  herds  which  had  poured  down  into 
the  Bear  River  Valley,  were  now  snow-bound, 
and  remained  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  camp 
throughout  the  winter.  This  furnished  the  trap- 
pers and  their  Indian  friends  a  perpetual  carnival  ; 
6o  that  to  slay  and  eat  seemed  to  be  the  main 
occupations  of  the  day.  It  is  astonishing  what 
loads  of  meat  it  requires  to  cope  with  the  appe- 
tite of  a  hunting  camp. 


I 


«70 


n ONNK  VILLE' S  AD  VENTURES. 


i  u 


!i  \:  Uhbn  .  f  ,'       list 


at 


^1 


The  ravens  and  wolves  soon  came  in  for  their 
eliare  of  tlie  good  cheer.  These  constant  atten- 
dants of  tlie  liuiiter  gathered  i»i  vast  numhers  as 
the  winter  advanced.  They  might  be  completely 
out  of  sight,  but  at  the  report  of  a  gun  flights 
of  ravens  would  immediately  be  seen  hovering 
in  the  air,  no  one  knew  whence  they  came ;  whiie 
the  sharp  visages  of  the  wolves  would  peep  down 
from  the  brow  of  every  hill,  waiting  for  the  hun- 
ter's departure,  to  pounce  upon  the  carcass. 

Beside  the  buffaloes,  there  were  other  neigh- 
bors snow-bound  in  the  valley,  whose  presence 
did  not  promJse  to  be  so  advantageous.  This 
WHS  a  band  of  Eutaw  Indians,  who  were  en- 
camped higher  up  on  the  river.  They  are  a 
poor  tribe,  that  in  a  scale  of  the  various  tribes 
irdiabiting  these  regions,  would  rank  between  tlie 
Shosho-iies  and  the  Shoshokoes  or  Root  Diggers ; 
though  more  bold  and  warlike  tlian  the  latter. 
Tliey  have  but  few  rifles  among  them,  and  are 
generally  arme<l  with  bows  and  arrows.  " 

As  this  band  and  the  Shoshonies  were  at 
deadly  feud,  on  account  of  old  grievances,  and  as 
neither  party  stood  in  awe  of  the  other,  it  was 
feared  some  bloody  scenes  might  ensue.  Cap- 
tain Bonneville,  therefore,  undertook  the  office 
of  pacificator,  and  sent  to  the  Eutaw  chiefs,  in- 
viting them  to  a  friendly  smoke,  in  order  to 
bring  about  a  reconciliation.  His  invitation  was 
proudly  declined  ;  whereupon  he  went  to  them 
in  person,  and  succeeded  in  effecting  a  suspensioa 
of  hostilities,  until  the  chiefs  of  the  two  tribes 
could  meet  in  councih     The  braves  of  the  two 


:']: 


ANTELOPE  nUNTING. 


471 


rival  camps  sullenly  acquiesced  in  the  arranj^e- 
ment.  Tliey  would  take  tlieir  seats  upon  the 
liill  tops,  and  watch  their  quondam  enemies  hunt- 
ing the  buffalo  i  tlie  plain  below,  and  iividently 
repine,  that  tlieir  iiands  were  tied  up  from  a 
skirmish.  The  worthy  captain,  however,  suc- 
ceeded in  carrying  tlu'ough  his  benevolent  medi- 
ation. The  chiefs  met ;  the  amicable  pipe  was 
Fmoked,  the  hatchet  buried,  and  peace  formally 
proclaimed.  After  this,  both  camps  united  and 
mingled  in  social  intercourse.  Private  quarrels, 
however,  would  occasionally  occur  in  hunting, 
about  the  division  of  the  game,  and  blows  would 
Fometimes  be  exchanged  over  the  carcass  of  a 
buffalo;  b'U  the  chififs  wisely  took  no  notice  of 
these  individual  brawls. 

One  day,  the  scouts,  who  had  been  ranging  tho 
hills,  broufrht  news  of  several  lai-sre  herds  of  an- 
telopes  in  a  small  valley  at  no  great  distance. 
This  produced  a  sensation  among  the  Indians,  for 
both  tribes  were  in  ragged  condition,  and  sadly 
in  want  of  those  shirts  made  of  the  skin  of  the 
antebpe.  It  was  determined  to  have  "a  sur- 
roi'nd,"  as  the  mode  of  hunting  that  animal  i?, 
called.  Everything  now  assumed  an  air  of  mys- 
tiv,  solemnity  and  importance.  The  chiefs  pre- 
pared tlieir  medicines  or  charms,  each  according 
to  his  own  method,  or  fancied  inspiration,  gener- 
ally with  the  compound  of  certain  simples ;  oth- 
ers consulted  the  entrails  of  animals  which  they 
had  sacrificed,  and  thence  drew  favorable  augu- 
ries. After  much  grave  smoking  and  deliberating, 
it  was  at  length  proclaimed,  that  all  who  were 


i 

1. ' 

''           1 

■  t 
i 

> 

1.. 

'! 


472 


B ONNK VILLE'S  AD  VEN T UR KS. 


able  to  lift  a  club,  man,  woman,  or  chilfl,  should 
muster  for  "  the  surround."  When  all  had  con- 
gregated, they  moved  in  rude  procession  to  the 
neare^'^t  point  of  the  valley  in  question,  and  there 
halted.  Another  course  of  smoking  and  delib- 
erating, of  which  the  Indians  are  so  fond,  took 
place  among  the  chiefs.  Directions  were  then 
issued  for  the  horsemen  to  make  a  circuit  of 
alK)Ut  seven  miles,  so  as  to  encompass  the  herd. 
When  this  was  done,  the  whole  mounted  force 
dashed  off,  simultaneously,  at  full  speed,  shouting 
and  yelling  at  the  top  of  their  voices.  In  a 
short  space  of  time,  the  antelopes,  started  from 
their  hidirig  places,  came  bounding  from  all  points 
into  the  valley.  The  riders  now  gradually  con- 
tracting their  circle,  brought  them  nearer  and 
nearer  to  the  spot  where  the  senior  chief,  sur- 
rounded by  the  elders,  male  and  female,  was  sealed 
in  supervision  of  the  chase.  The  antelopes, 
nearly  exhausted  with  fatigue  and  fright,  and  be- 
wildered by  perpetual  whooping,  riiade  no  effort  to 
break  through  the  ring  of  the  hunters,  but  ran 
round  in  small  circles,  until  man,  woman,  and 
child  beat  them  down  with  bludgeons.  Such  is 
the  nature  of  that  species  of  antelope  hunting, 
technically  called  *' a  surround." 


1(1,  should 
1  lijul   con- 
ion   to  the 
,  and  tlicre 
and   delib- 
fond,  took 
were  then 
circuit  of 
s  the   herd, 
nited   force 
d,  shouting 
ces.      In    a 
tarted  from 
n  all  points 
dually  con- 
nearer  and 
•  chief,  sur- 
,  was  seated 
antelopes, 
hi,  and  be- 
no  effort  to 
rs,  but  ran 
onian,  and 
.     Such  is 
e    hunting, 


•I 


CHAPTER  XLVII. 

&.  fefitive  winter.  —  Conversion  of  the  Shoshonies.  —  Visit  of 
two  tree  trappers.  —  Gayety  in  the  camp.  —  A  touch  of  the 
tender  passion.  —  The  reclaimed  squaw.  —  An  Indian  tine 
lady. —An  elopement.  —  A  pursuit. — Market  vahie  of  a 
bad  wife. 

AME  continued  to  abound  throughout 
the  winter;  and  the  camp  was  over- 
stocked with  provisions.  Beef  and  ven- 
ison, humps  and  haunches,  buffalo  tongues  and 
marrow-bones,  were  constantly  cooking  at  every 
fire ;  and  the  whole  atmospiiere  was  redolent 
with  the  L,avory  fumes  of  roust  meat.  It  was,  in- 
deed, a  continual  '*  feast  of  fat  things,"  and  though 
there  might  be  a  lack  of  "wine  upon  the  lees," 
yet,  we  have  shown  that  a  substitute  was  occa- 
sionrdly  to  be  found  in  honey  and  alcohol. 

Both  the  Shoshonies  and  the  Eutaws  conduc- 
ted themselves  with  great  propriety.  It  is  true, 
they  now  and  then  filched  a  few  trifles  from  their 
good  friends,  the  Big  Hearts,  when  their  backs 
were  turned  ;  but  then,  they  always  treated  them, 
to  their  faces,  with  the  utmost  deference  and  re- 
spect ;  and  good-humoredly  vied  with  the  trappers 
in  all  kinds  of  feats  of  activity  and  mirthful  sports. 
The  two  tribes  maintained  towards  each  other, 
also,  a  friendliness  of  aspect,  which    gave  Cap- 


■  t' '..: 


474 


n ONNE VILLICS  A  D  VENTURES, 


\n 


n 


1 


-hM 


tain  Bon?»evillci  reason  to  hope  tliat  all  past  an« 


>on?»e 
was 


invnity  wan  cfllMftiially  buried. 

Tlic  two  rival  bands,  however,  had  not  Ion"; 
been  mingled  in  this  soeial  manner,  before  tlieir 
ancient  jealousy  be^an  to  breal\  out,  in  a  new 
form.      The  senior  chief  of  the  Slioshonies  was  a 


tliink 


in«r  man,  and   a    man   o 


►f  ob.« 


ervation. 


II( 


had  b(H»n  amonj'  tlie  Nez  Perce-s,  listened  to  their 


n 


new  code  of  morality  and  religion  received  from 
the  white  men,  and  attended  their  devotional  ex- 
ercises, lie  had  observed  the  effect  of  all  this, 
in  elevating  the  tribe  in  the  estimation  of  the 
white  men  ;  and  determined,  by  the  same  means, 
to  gain  for  his  own  tribe  a  superiority  over  their 
ignorant  rivals,  tlie  Eutaws.  lie  accordingly  as- 
sembled his  people,  and  piomulgatetl  among  them 
the  mongrel  doctrines  and  form  of  vvoiship  of  the 
Nez  Perccs ;  recommending  the  same  to  their 
adoption.  The  Slioshonies  w(ire  struck  with  the 
novelty,  at  least,  of  the  measure,  and  enteied  into 
it  with  spirit.  Tiiey  began  to  observe  Sundays 
and  holidays,  and  to  have  their  devotional  dances, 
and  chants,  and  other  ceremonials,  about  which 
the  ignorant  Eutaws  knew  nothing ;  while  they 
exerted  their  usual  competition  in  shooting  and 
horse-racing,  and  the  renowned  game  of  hand. 

Matters  were  going  on  thus  pleasantly  and 
prosperously,  in  this  motley  community  of  white 
and  red  men,  when,  one  morning,  two  stark  free 
trappers,  arrayed  in  the  height  of  savage  finery, 
and  mounted  on  steeds  as  fine  and  as  fiery  as 
themselves,  and  all  jingling  with  hawk's  bells, 
i.»ame  galloping,  with  whoop  and  halloo,  into  the 
camp. 


TFTE  DASHING   FRICE    TR^iPPERS.        475 

Tliey  wore  fresh  from  tlie  winter  encamp- 
ment of  the  American  Fur  Comparjy,  in  tiio 
G"een  River  Valley;  and  had  come;  to  pay  their 
old  coiiirades  of  Captain  B()iin(!ville*s  company  a 
visit.  An  idea  may  he  formed,  from  the  scenes 
we  have  already  j^iven  of  conviviality  in  the 
wilderness,  of  the  manner  in  wliieh  these  ^'ame 
birds  were  received  hy  those  of  their  feather  in 
the  camp ;  what  feasting,  what  revelinjr,  what 
boastinp^,  what  h?'a;iging,  what  ranting  and  roaiing, 
and  racing  and  gambling,  and  squabbling  an«l 
fighting,  ensued  jimong  these  boon  companions. 
Captain  Ronneville,  it  is  true,  maintaine<l  always 
a  certain  degree  of  law  and  order  in  his  camp, 
and  checked  each  fierce  excess ;  but  the  trappers, 
in  their  seasons  of  idleness  and  relaxation,  require 
a  degree  of  license  and  indulgence,  to  repay 
them  for  the  long  privations,  and  almost  incred- 
ible hardships  of  their  periods  of  active  service. 

\n  the  midst  of  all  this  feasting  and  frolicking, 
a  freak  of  the  tender  passion  intervened,  and 
wrought  a  complete  change  in  the  scene. 
Among  the  Indian  beauties  in  the  camp  of  the 
Eutaws  and  Shoshonies,  the  free  tnippers  discov- 
ered two,  who  had  whilom  figured  as  their 
squaws.  These  connections  frequently  take  place 
for  a  season,  and  sometimes  continue  for  years, 
if  not  perpetually  ;  but  h^q  apt  to  be  broken 
when  the  free  trapper  starts  off,  suddenly,  on 
some  distfuit  and  rough  ex()edition. 

In  the  present  instance,  these  wild  blades  were 
anxious  to  regain  their  belles  ;  nor  were  the  latter 
loath  once  more  to  come  under  their  protection. 


I" 


iif 


476 


B ONNE VI LIE'S  AD VEN T URES. 


If* 


1 

s 

.lii 

The  free  trapper  combines,  in  the  eye  of  an  In* 
dian  girl,  all  that  is  dashing  and  lieroic  in  a  war- 
rior of  her  own  race,  whose  gait,  and  garb,  and 
bravery  he  emuhites,  with  all  that  is  gallant  and 
glorious  in  the  white  man.  And  then  the  indul- 
gence with  which  he  treats  her,  the  finery  in 
which  he  decks  her  out,  the  state  in  which  she 
moves,  the  sway  she  erijoys  over  both  his  purse 
and  person,  instead  of  being  the  drudge  and  slave 
of  an  Indian  husband  ;  obliged  to  carry  his  pack, 
and  build  his  lodge,  and  make  his  fire,  and  bear 
liis  cross  humors  and  dry  blows.  —  No  ;  there  is 
no  comparison,  in  the  eyes  of  an  aspiring  belle 
of  the  wilderness,  between  a  free  trapper  and  an 
Indian  brave.  "       . 

With  respect  to  one  of  the  parties,  the  mattei* 
was  easily  arranged.  The  beauty  in  question 
was  a  pert  little  Eutaw  wench,  that,  had  been 
taken  prisoner,  in  some  war  excursion,  by  a  8ho- 
shonie.  She  was  I'eadily  ransomed  for  a  few  ar- 
ticles of  trifling  value  ;  and  forthwith  figured 
about  tl.s  camp  in  fine  array,  "  with  rings  on  her 
fingers,  and  bells  on  her  toes,"  and  a  tossed-up 
coquettish  air,  that  made  her  the  envy,  admiration, 
aiid  abhorrence  of  (dl  the  leathern-dressed,  hard- 
working squaws  of  her  acquaintance. 

As  to  the  other  beauty,  it  was  quite  a  differ- 
ent matter.  She  had  become  the  wife  of  a  Sho- 
shonie  brave.  It  is  true,  he  had  another  wifie, 
of  older  date  than  the  one  in  question:  who, 
therefore,  took  command  in  his  household,  and 
treated  his  new  spouse  as  a  slave  ;  but  the  latter 
was  the  wife  of  his  last  fancy,  his  latest  caprice ; 


•  \ 


AN  ELOPEMENT. 


U'i 


t  bad  been 


and  was  precious  in  bis  eyes.  All  attempt  to 
bargain  witb  bim,  tberefore,  was  useless;  tbe 
\Gvy  proposition  was  repulsed  witli  anger  and 
disdain.  Tbe  spirit  of  tbe  trapper  was  roused, 
bis  pride  was  piqued  as  well  bis  passion.  He 
endeavored  to  prevail  upon  bis  quondam  mistress 
to  elope  witb  bim.  His  borses  were  fleet,  tbo 
winter  nigbts  were  long  and  dark,  before  day- 
ligbt  tbey  would  be  beyond  tbe  reacli  of  pursuit ; 
and  once  at  tbe  encampment  in  Green  River  Val- 
ley, tbey  migbt  set  tbe  wbole  band  of  Sbosbonies 
at  defiance. 

Tbe  Indian  girl  listened  and  longed.  Her 
heart  yearned  rJ'ter  tbe  ease  and  splendor  of  con- 
dition of  a  trapper's  bride,  and  tbrobbed  to  be 
freed  from  tbe  capricious  control  of  tbe  premier 
squaw  ;  but  sbe  dreaded  tbe  failure  of  tbe  plan, 
and  tbe  fury  of  a  Sliosbonie  busband.  Tliey 
parted  ;  tbe  Indian  girl  in  tears,  and  tbe  madcap 
trapper  more  mad  tban  ever,  witb  bis  tbwarted 
passion. 

Tbeir  interviews  bad,  probably,  been  detected, 
and  tbe  jealousy  of  the  Sbosbonie  brave  aroused  : 
a  clamor  of  angry  voices  was  beard  in  Ids  lodge, 
witb  the  sound  of  blows,  and  of  female  weeping 
and  lamenting.  At  night,  as  tbe  trapper  lay 
tossing  on  bis  pallet,  a  soft  voice  whispered  at 
the  door  of  bis  lodge.  His  mistress  stood  trem- 
bling before  him.  She  was  ready  to  follow 
whithersoever  he  should  lead. 

In  an  instant,  he  was  up  and  out.  He  had 
two  prime  horses,  sure,  and  swift  of  foot,  and  of 
great    wind.     With    stealthy    quiet,    tbey    were 


§ 


fi! 


;f  .^1 


i,i;'!s 


4 


JSMit' 


m 


m 

1  ^ 

i 

m 


478 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


brought  up  and  saddled  ;  and,  in  a  few  moments, 
he  and  his  prize  were  careering  over  the  snow, 
with  which  the  wiiole  country  was  covered.  In 
the  eagerness  of  escape,  tliey  had  made  no  pro- 
vision for  their  journey  ;  days  must  elapse  before 
they  could  reach  their  haven  of  safety,  and  momi- 
tains  and  prairies  be  traversed,  wrapped  in  all  the 
desolation  of  winter.  For  the  present,  however, 
they  thought  of  nothing  but  flight ;  urging  their 
horses  forward  over  the  dreary  wastes,  and  fancy- 
ing, in  the  howling  of  every  blast,  they  heard  the 
yell  of  the  pursuer. 

At  early  dawn,  the  Shoshonie  became  aware 
of  his  loss.  Mounting  his  swiftest  horse,  he  set 
off  in  hot  pursuit.  He  soon  found  the  trail  of 
the  fugitives,  and  spurred  on  in  hopes  of  over- 
taking them.  The  winds,  however,  which  swept 
the  valley,  had  drifted  the  light  snow  into  the 
prints  made  by  the  horses'  hoofs.  In  a  little 
while,  he  lost  all  trace  of  them,  and  was  com- 
pletely thrown  out  of  the  chase.  He  knew, 
however,  the  situation  of  the  camp  toward  wliich 
they  were  bound,  and  a  direct  course  through 
the  mountains,  by  which  he  might  arrive  there 
sooner  than  the  fugitives.  Through  the  most 
rugged  defiles,  therefore,  he  urged  his  course  by 
day  and  night,  scarce  pausing  until  he  reached 
the  camp.  It  was  some  time  before  the  fugitives 
made  their  appearance.  Six  days  had  they  been 
traversing  the  wintry  wilds.  They  came,  hag- 
gard with  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  their  horses 
faltering  under  them.  The  first  object  that  met 
their  eyes,  on  entering  the  camp,  was  the  Sho' 


\l 


VALUE   OF  A  BAD    WIFE. 


479 


ehonie  brave.  He  rushed,  knife  in  Imnd,  to 
plunge  it  in  the  heart  that  had  proved  false  to 
him.  The  trapper  threw  himself  before  the  cow- 
ering form  of  his  mistress,  and,  exhausted  as  he 
was,  prepared  for  a  deadly  strug!:t;le.  The  Sho- 
shonie  paused.  His  habitual  awe  of  the  white 
man  checked  his  arm  ;  the  trapper's  friends 
crowded  to  the  spot,  and  arrested  him.  A  parley 
ensued.  A  kind  of  crhn.  con.  adjudication  took 
place;  such  as  frequently  occu  s  in  civilized  life. 
A  couple  of  horses  were  declared  to  be  a  fair 
compensation  for  the  loss  of  a  woman  who  had 
previously  lost  her  heart  ;  with  this,  the  Shosho- 
nie  brave  was  fain  to  pacify  his  passion.  He  re- 
turned to  Captain  Bonneville's  camp,  somewhat 
crest-fallen,  it  is  true ;  but  parried  the  officious 
condolements  of  his  friends,  by  observing,  that 
two  good  horses  were  very  good  pay  for  one  bad 
wife. 


le  fugitives 


i,  I 


b  f 


■f  ; 


'■\ 


.  1 1 


Ft       ^    ,    ^^    A 


il 


■f 


CHAPTER   XLVIII. 

Breaking  up  of  winter  quarters.  —  Move  to  Green  River.— 
A  trapper  and  his  riHe.  —  An  arrival  in  camp.  —  A  free 
trapper  and  his  squaw  hi  distress.  —  Story  of  a  Clackfoot 
belle. 

t 

HE  winter  was  now  breaking  up,  the 
snows  were  melted  from  the  hills,  and 
from  the  lower  parts  of  the  mountains, 
and  the  time  for  decamping  had  arrived.  Captain 
Bonneville  dispatcht  1  a  party  to  the  caches,  who 
brought  away  all  the  effects  concealed  there,  and 
on  the  1st  of  April  (1835),  the  camp  was  broken 
up,  and  every  one  on  the  move.  The  white  men 
and  their  allies,  the  Eutaws  and  Shoshonies,  parted 
with  many  regrets  and  sincere  expressions  of  good- 
will, for  their  intercourse  throughout  the  winter 
had  been  of  the  most  friendly  kind. 

Captain  Bonneville  and  his  party  passed  by 
Ham's  Fork,  and  reached  the  Colorado,  or  Green 
River,  without  accident,  on  the  banks  of  which  they 
remained  during  the  residue  of  the  spring.  During 
this  time,  they  were  conscious  that  a  band  of 
hostile  Indians  were  hovering  about  their  vicinity, 
watching  for  an  opportunity  to  slay  or  steal ;  but 
the  vigilant  precautions  of  Captain  Bonneville 
baffled  all  their  maneuvers.  In  such  dangerous 
times,  the  experienced  mountaineer  is  never  with- 


Teen  River.— 
imp. —  A  free 
of  a  Blackfoot 


mg   up, 


the 


le  liills,  and 
i  mountains, 
d.  Captiiin 
caches,  who 
id  there,  and 

was  broken 
e  white  men 

nies,  parted 
ons  of  good- 
the  winter 

passed  by 
llo,  or  Green 
If  which  they 
ins:.    During 

a  band  of 
lieir  vicinity, 

>r  steal ;  but 

Bonneville 

dangerous 

never  with- 


AN  ARRIVAL  IN   CAMP. 


481 


out  his  rifle,  even  in  camp.  On  going  from  lodge 
to  lodge  to  visit  his  comrades,  he  takes  it  with 
him.  On  seating  himself  in  a  lodge,  he  lays  it 
beside  him,  ready  to  be  snatched  up ;  when  lie 
goes  out,  he  takes  it  up  as  regulai'ly  as  a  citizen 
would  his  walking  staff.  His  rifle  is  his  constant 
friend  and  protector. 

Oil  the  10th  of  June,  the  party  were  a  little  to 
the  east  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  wheie 
they  halted  for  a  time  in  excellent  pasturage,  to 
give  their  horses  a  chance  to  recruit  their  strength 
for  a  long  journey  ;  for  it  was  Captain  Bonneville's 
intention  to  shape  his  course  to  the  settlements ; 
having  already  been  detained  by  the  complication 
of  his  duties,  and  by  various  losses  and  impedi- 
ments, fai*  beyond  the  time  specified  in  his  leave 
of  absence. 

AYhile  the  party  was  thus  reposing  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Wind  River  Mountains,  a 
solitary  free  trapper  rode  one  day  into  the  camp, 
and  accosted  Captain  Bonneville.  He  belonged, 
he  said,  to  a  party  of  thirty  hunters,  who  had  just 
passed  through  the  neighborhood,  but  whom  he 
had  abandoned  in  consequence  of  their  ill  treat- 
ment of  a  brother  trapper ;  whom  they  had  cast 
off  from  their  party,  and  left  with  his  bag  and 
baggage,  and  an  Indian  wife  into  the  bargain,  in 
the  midst  of  a  desolate  prairie.  The  horseman 
gave  a  piteous  account  of  the  situation  of  this 
helpless  pair,  and  solicited  the  loan  of  horses  to 
bring  them  and  their  effects  to  the  camp. 

The  captain  was  not  a  man  to  refuse  assistance 
iO  any  one  hi  distress,  especially  when  there  was 

31 


,<N:'! 

-  V   t. 


f 


I  .'I 


t 


482 


B ONNE VILLE'S  A D VENTURES. 


r 


III 


II 

1   ! 

i 

i  . 

:\ 

J 

a  woman  in  tlic  case ;  liorses  were  immediatolj 
dispatcljcd,  with  an  escort,  to  aid  tlic  luifortiinate 
couple.  Tlie  next  day,  they  made  their  appear- 
ance with  all  their  elFects :  the  man,  a  staJwart 
mountaineer,  with  a  peculiarly  game  look  ;  the 
woman,  a  young  Blackfoot  heauty,  arrayed  in  the 
trappings  and  trinketry  of  a  free  trappci-'s  bride. 

Finding  the  woman  to  be  quick-witted  and 
communicative,  Captam  I>onneville  entered  into 
conversation  with  her,  and  obtaijied  from  her 
many  particulars  concerning  the  habits  and  cus- 
toms of  her  tribe ;  especially  their  wars  and  luint- 
ings.  They  pride  themselves  upon  being  the 
"  best  legs  of  the  mountiiins,"  and  hunt  the  bulTalo 
on  foot.  This  is  done  m  spring  time,  when  the 
frosts  have  thawed  and  tlio  ground  is  soft.  The 
heavy  buffalo  then  sink  over  their  hoofs  at  every 
step,  and  are  easily  overtaken  by  the  Blackfeet ; 
whose  fleet  steps  press  lightly  on  the  surface.  It 
is  said,  however,  that  the  buffalo  on  the  Pacific 
side  of  the  Ilocky  Mountains  are  fleeter  and  more 
active  than  on  the  Atlantic  side ;  those  upon  the 
plains  of  the  Columl)ia  can  scarcely  be  overtaken 
by  a  horse  that  would  outstrip  the  same  animal 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Platte,  the  usual  hunt- 
ing ground  of  the  Blackfeet.  Iw  the  course  of 
further  conversation.  Captain  Bonneville  drew 
from  the  Indian  woman  her  whole  story ;  wliich 
gave  a  picture  of  savage  life,  and  of  the  drudgery 
and  hardships  to  whicli  an  Indian  wife  is  subject, 

*'  I  was  the  wife,"  said  she,  "  of  a  Blackfoot 
warrior,  and  \  served  him  faithfully.  Who  was 
BO  well   served  as  he?      Whose  lud^e  was  so  welJ 


STORY  OF  THE  DLACKFQOT  BELLE,      483 


fovtmiiita 
r  iippear- 
,  stiilvvait 
look;  tho 
^cd  in  the 
cr's  bri<lo. 
itted    and 
tcrod  into 
from    her 
s  and  cus- 
and  hiint- 
boing   the 
the  butTalo 
^  when  the 
soft.     The 
»fs  at  every 
Bhxckfeet; 
,111'face.     It 
the  Pacific 
r  and  more 
e  upon  the 
overtaken 
me  animal 
u«ual  hmit- 
course  of 
ville    drew 
ory;  wliich 
le  drudgery 
is  subject. 
Bhxckfoot  ^ 
Wlio  was 
was  so  well 


provided,  or  kept  so  clean  ?  I  lirouglit  wood  iu 
the  morning,  aim  |)laced  water  always  at  hand. 
I  watched  for  his  coming ;  and  he  found  his  meat 
cooked  and  ready.  If  he  rose  to  go  forth,  there 
was  nothing  to  del'>.y  him.  I  searched  the  thought 
that  was  hi  his  heart,  to  save  him  tlie  trouble  of 
speaking.  TVhen  I  went  abroad  on  errands  for 
hnn.  the  chiefs  and  warriors  smiled  upon  me,  and 
the  young  braves  spoke  soft  things,  in  secret ;  but 
my  feet  were  in  tlie  straight  path,  and  my  eyes 
could  see  nothing  but  him. 

*^  When  he  went  out  to  hunt,  or  to  war,  who 
aided  to  equip  him,  but  I  ?  Wlien  he  returned, 
I  met  him  at  the  door ;  I  took  his  gun  ;  and  he 
entered  without  further  tliought.  While  he  sat 
and  smoked,  I  unloaded  his  horses ;  tied  them  to 
the  stakes ;  brought  in  their  loads,  and  was  quickly 
at  liis  feet.  If  his  moccasins  were  wet,  I  took 
them  oiF  and  put  on  others  wliich  were  dry  and 
warm.  I  dressed  all  the  skins  he  had  tiiken  in 
tlie  chase.  He  could  never  say  to  me,  why  is  it 
not  done  ?  He  hunted  the  deer,  the  antelope,  and 
the  buffalo,  and  he  watched  for  the  enemy.  Every- 
tliing  else  was  done  by  me.  When  our  people 
moved  their  camp,  he  mounted  his  horse  and  rode 
away ;  free  as  though  he  had  fallen  from  the  skies. 
He  had  nothing  to  do  with  the  labor  of  the  camp  ; 
it  was  I  that  packed  the  horses,  and  led  them  on 
the  journey.  When  we  halted  in  the  evening, 
•And  he  sat  with  the  ot'.er  braves  and  smoked,  it 
was  1  that  pitched  his  lodge ;  and  when  he  came 
to  eat  and  sleep,  his  supper  and  his  bed  were 
ready. 


484 


D ONNE  VILLIC'S  A D  VENTURES. 


M 


'Ur 


"  I  served  lilni  fiiitlifully ;  jukI  what  wa8  my 
reward  ?  A  cloud  was  always  uii  liis  brow,  aud 
bliarp  lightii'n<^  on  his  tongue.  I  was  his  dog; 
and  not  his  wile. 

"  Who  was  it  that  scarred  and  bruised  me  ?  It 
was  he.  My  brother  saw  how  I  was  treated. 
His  heart  was  big  for  me.  He  begged  me  to 
leave  my  tyrant  and  fly.  AVhere  could  I  go  ? 
If  retal'cn,  who  would  protect  me?  My  brother 
was  not  a  cliief ;  he  could  not  save  me  from  blows 
and  wounds,  perhaps  death.  At  length  I  was 
persuaded.  I  followed  my  brother  from  the 
village.  He  pointed  tlie  way  to  the  Nez  Perces, 
and  bade  mc  go  and  live  hi  peace  among  them 
We  parted.  On  the  third  day  I  saw  the  lodges 
of  the  Nez  Perces  before  me.  I  j^aused  for  a 
moment,  and  had  no  heart  to  go  on  ;  but  my  horse 
ueighed,  and  I  took  it  as  a  good  sign,  and  suf- 
fered him  to  gallop  forward.  In  a  little  while  I 
was  in  the  midst  of  the  lodges.  As  I  sat  silent  on 
my  horse,  the  peo[)le  gathered  round  me,  and  in- 
quired whence  I  came.  I  told  my  story.  A  chief 
now  wrapped  his  blanket  close  around  him,  and 
bade  me  dismount.  I  obeyed.  He  took  my  horse  to 
lead  him  away.  My  heart  grew  small  witliin  me. 
I  felt,  on  parting  with  my  horse,  as  if  my  last 
friend  was  gone.  I  had  no  words,  and  my  eyes 
were  dry.  As  he  led  off  my  horse,  a  young  brave 
fttepped  forward.  '  Are  you  a  chief  of  the  people  ?  * 
cried  he.  '  Do  we  listen  to  you  ir  council,  and 
follow  you  in  battle  ?  Behold !  a  stranger  flies 
to  our  camji  from  the  dogs  of  Blackfeet,  and  asks 
protection.     Let  shame   cover  your   face !     Tho 


%ti  «Si : /.a 


BTORY  OF  THE  l/LA CKF 00TB ELLE.      485 


^f.     w 


was  my 
row,  aucl 
his  dog ; 

me?     It 
treated. 

}d  mu  to 
Id  I  go? 
y  brotlier 
om  blows 
;tli  I  was 
from    tlie 
3z  Tcrccs, 
3iig  them 
Lhe  lodges 
sed    for  a 
t  my  horse 
I,  and  suf- 
,le  while  I 
,t  sileut  on 
lc,  and  in- 
A  chief 
him,  and 
Ly  horse  to 
witliin  me. 
if  my  last 
Id  my  eyes 
|oung  brave 
le  people  ? ' 
|ouncil,  and 
•answer  flies 
t,  and  asks 
face !     The 


stranger  is  a  woman,  and  alone.  If  she  were  a 
warrior,  or  had  a  warrior  by  ner  side,  your  heart 
would  not  be  big  enougli  to  take  licr  liorse.  But 
he  is  youi's.  liy  the  right  of  war  you  may  claim 
him;  but  look!'  —  his  bow  was  drawn,  and  the 
arrow  ready  !  —  *  you  never  shall  cross  his  back  ! ' 
The  arrow  pierced  the  heart  of  the  horse,  and  he 
fell  dead. 

"  An  old  woman  said  she  would  be  my  mother. 
She  led  mo  to  her  lodge :  my  heart  was  thawed 
by  her  kindness,  and  my  eyes  burst  fortli  with 
tears  ;  like  the  frozen  fountains  hi  spring-time. 
She  never  changed  ;  but  as  the  days  passed  away, 
was  still  a  mother  to  me.  The  people  were  loud 
in  praise  of  the  young  brave,  and  the  chief  was 
ashamed.     I  lived  in  })eace. 

"  A  party  of  trappers  came  to  the  village,  and 
one  of  them  took  me  for  his  wife.  This  is  he. 
I  am  very  happy  ;  he  treats  me  with  kindness, 
and  I  have  taught  him  the  language  of  my  peo- 
ple. As  we  were  travelling  this  way,  some  of 
the  Blackfeet  warrix^is  beset  us,  and  carried  off 
the  horses  of  the  party.  AVe  followed,  and  my 
husband  held  a  parley  with  them.  The  guns 
were  laid  down,  and  the  pipe  was  lighted;  but 
some  of  the  white  men  attempted  to  seize  the 
hc-ses  by  force,  and  then  a  battle  began.  The 
Bnow  was  deep ;  the  white  men  sank  into  it  at 
every  step ;  but  the  red  men,  with  their  snow- 
shoes,  passed  over  the  surface  like  birds,  and 
irove  off  many  of  the  horses  in  sight  of  their 
owners.  W'th  those  that  remained  we  resumed 
our  journey     At  length  words   took  place  be- 


■'V 

'■»■ 


iS6 


B ONNE Vf LIFTS  A D  VENTURES, 


!M 

\ 

twcen  the  leader  of  the  party  and  my  husband. 
He  took  away  our  liorses,  which  had  escaped  in 
the  battle,  and  tuinud  us  from  his  camp.  My 
husband  had  one  \foo([  friend  anion<^  the  trappers. 
That  is  he  (pointing  to  '  aan  who  had  asked 
assistance  for  them),  lie  is  a  good  man.  Ilia 
heart  is  big.  When  he  came  in  from  hunting, 
and  found  that  we  had  been  driven  away,  he 
gave  up  all  his  wages,  and  followed  us,  that  he 
might  speak  good  words  for  us  to  the  white  cap* 
tain."  V 


husband. 
;c!iped  in 
up.  My 
trappers, 
uxd  asked 
liin.  Hia 
I  hunting, 


away, 


he 


IS,  that  he 
white  cap* 


CIIAPTEll   XLIX. 

A  retulczvous  at  Wind  Hivor.  —  Campnifjn  of  I\rontoro  nnd 
his  l)rij;a(lo  in  tin;  Crow  coiintry.  —  W'jir.s  between  tho 
Crows  ami  lilaikf'eet.  —  Deatli  of  Arapooish.  —  Hlackfeet 
linkers.  —  Sai;;acify  of  tlie  horse.  —  Di^pendence  of  the 
hunter  on  his  horse.  —  Ueturn  to  the  settloments. 

N  tlie  2'2d  of  June,  Captain  Bonneville 
raised  liis  c:unp,  and  moved  to  the  forkg 
of  Wind  River ;  the  aj)pointed  phice 
of  rendezvous.  In  a  few  days,  lie  was  joined 
there  by  the  brigjide  of  IMontero,  which  had 
been  sent,  in  the  preceding  year,  to  beat  up  tho 
Crow  country,  and  afterwards  proceed  to  the  Ar- 
kansas. IMontero  had  followed  the  early  part  of 
his  instructions  ;  after  tra])ping  upon  son  j  of  the 
upper  streams,  he  proceeded  to  Powder  River. 
Here  he  fell  in  with  the  Crow  villages  or  bands, 
who  treated  him  with  unusual  kindness,  and  pre- 
vailed upon  him  to  take  up  his  winter-quarters 
among  them. 

The  Crows,  at  that  time,  were  struggling  al- 
most for  existence  with  their  old  enemies,  the 
Blackfeet ;  who,  in  the  paf  t  year,  had  picked  off 
the  flower  of  their  warriors  in  various  engage- 
ments, and  among  the  rest,  Arapooish,  the  friend 
of  the  white  men.  That  sagacious  and  raagnin- 
imous  chief  had  beheld,  with  grief,  the  ravages 


i 
I 


V 

l' 


I  ;' 


488 


BONNEVILLE'S  ADVENTURES. 


which  war  wiis  maklug  hi  his  tribe,  and  that  it 
was  declining  in  force,  and  must  eventually  bo 
destroyed,  unless  some  signal  blow  could  bo 
struck  to  retrieve  its  fortunes.  In  a  pitched  bat- 
tle of  the  two  tribes,  ho  made  a  speech  to  bis 
waniors,  urging  them  to  set  everything  at  haz- 
ard ill  one  furious  charge  ;  which  done,  he  led 
the  way  into  the  thickest  of  the  foe.  He  was 
soon  separated  from  his  men,  and  fell  covered 
with  wounds,  but  his  self-devotion  was  not  in 
vain.  The  Blackfeet  were  defeated ;  and  from 
that  time  the  Crows  })lucked  up  fresh  heart,  and 
were  frequently  successful. 

Montero  had  not  been  long  encamped  among 
them,  when  he  discovered  that  the  Blackfeet 
were  hoverinfj  about  the  neighborhood.  One 
day  the  hunters  came  galloping  into  the  camp, 
and  proclaimed  that  a  band  of  the  enemy  was  at 
hand.  The  Crows  flew  to  arms,  leaped  on  their 
horses,  and  dashed  out  in  squadrons  in  pursuit. 
They  overtook  the  retreating  enemy  in  the  midst 
of  a  plain.  A  desperate  fight  ensued.  The 
Crows  had  tlie  advantage  of  numbers,  and  of 
fighting  on  horseback.  The  greater  j)art  of  the 
Blackfeet  were  slain  ;  the  remnant  took  shelter 
in  a  close  thicket  of  willows,  where  the  horse 
could  not  enter ;  whence  they  plied  their  bows 
vigorously. 

The  Crows  drew  off  out  of  bow-shot,  and 
endeavored,  by  taunts  and  bravadoes,  to  draw  the 
warriors  out  of  their  retreat.  A  few  of  the  best 
mounted  among  them,  rode  apart  from  the  rest. 
One  of  their  number  then  advanced  alone,  with 


;j '  fi 


Tnt:   T A  us  TING   HORSEMAN. 


489 


that  martial  air  ami  equestrian  /i^racc  for  which 
the  triho  is  noted.  When  within  an  arrow's 
Hii^ht  of  the  tliieke't,  ho  loosened  his  rein,  uri^ed 
his  liorso  to  full  spee*l,  tlirt-w  his  Iwxly  on  tho 
.pposite  side,  so  as  to  hani^  hy  hut  one  le«;,  and 
present  no  mark  to  tho  foe ,  in  this  way,  ho 
swept  along  in  front  of  the  thicket,  launching* 
his  arrows  from  un<ler  tho  neck  of  his  steed. 
Then  regaining  his  seat  in  the  saddle,  he  wheeled 
round,  and  returned  whoo[)ing  and  scothng  to  liis 
companions,  who  received  him  with  yells  of  ap- 
plause. 

Another  and  another  horseman  repeated  this 
exploit ;  but  tho  Blackfeet  were  not  to  1)0  taunted 
out  of  their  safe  shelter.  The  victors  feared  to 
drive  desperate  men  to  extremities,  so  they  for- 
bore to  attempt  tho  thicket.  Towards  night  they 
gave  over  the  attack,  and  returne<l  all-glorious 
with  the  scalps  of  the  slain.  Then  cjime  on  tho 
usual  feasts  and  triumphs ;  the  sc*alp-<lanco  of 
warriors  round  tho  ghastly  trophies,  and  all  the 
other  fierce  revel ly  of  barbarous  warfare.  When 
tho  braves  had  finished  with  the  scalps,  they 
were,  as  usual,  given  up  to  tho  women  and  chil- 
dren, and  made  the  objects  of  new  parades  and 
dances.  They  were  then  treasured  up  as  in- 
valuable trophies  and  decorations  by  the  braves 
who  had  won  them. 

It  is  worthy  of  note,  that  the  scalp  of  a  white 
man,  either  through  policy  or  fear,  is  treated  with 
more  charity  than  that  of  an  Indian.  The  war- 
rior who  won  it  is  entitled  to  his  triumph  if  he 
demands  it.     In  such  case,  the  war  party  alone 


ft  i.  ' 
If. : 


;| 


lit 


490 


BO    NE VJLLE'S  A D VENTURES. 


dance  round  tlie  scalp.  It  is  then  taken  down, 
and  the  shaijfred  frontlet  of  a  buffalo  substituted 
in  its  place,  and  abandoned  to  the  triumphs  and 
insults  of  tlie  million. 

To  avoid  being  involved  in  these  guerillas,  as 
well  as  to  escape  from  the  extremely  social  iutcjr- 
course  of  the  Crows,  which  began  to  be  oppres- 
sive, JMontero  moved  to  the  distance  of  several 
miles  from  their  camps,  and  there  formed  a  win- 
ter cantonment  of  huts.  He  now  maintained  a 
viirilant  watch  at  niirht.  Their  horses,  which 
were  turned  loose  to  graze  during  the  day,  under 
lieedful  eyes,  were  brought  in  at  night,  and  shut 
up  in  sti  ong  pens,  built  of  large  logs  of  cotton- 
wood. 

The  snows,  during  a  portion  of  the  winter, 
were  so  deep  that  the  poor  animals  could  find 
but  little  sustenance.  Here  and  there  a  tuft  of 
grass  would  peer  above  the  snow ;  but  they  were 
in  general  driven  to  browse  the  twigs  and  tender 
branches  of  the  trees.  When  they  were  turned 
out  in  the  morning,  the  first  moments  of  freedom 
from  the  confinement  of  the  pen  were  spent  iu 
frisking  and  gamboling.  This  done,  they  went 
soberly  and  sadlj'  to  work,  to  glean  their  scanty 
Bubsistence  for  the  day.  In  tlie  meantime,  the 
men  stripped  the  bark  of  the  cotton-wood  tree 
for  the  evening  fodder.  As  the  poor  horses 
would  return  towards  nii^ht,  with  sluofixisli  and 
dispirited  air,  the  moment  they  saw  their  owners 
approaching  them  with  blankets  filled  with  cot- 
ton-wood bark,  their  whole  demeanor  underwent 
a  change.     A  universal    neighing  and  capering 


SAGACITY  OF   THE  HORSE. 


491 


4 


took  place  ;  they  v/ould  riisli  forward,  smell  to 
the  blankets,  paw  the  earth,  snort,  whinny  and 
prance  round  with  head  and  tail  erect,  until  the 
blankets  were  opened,  and  the  welcome  proven- 
der spread  before  them.  These  evidences  of 
intelli<;ence  and  gladness  were  frecpiently  re- 
counted by  the  trai)pers  as  proving  the  sagacity 
of  the  animal. 

These  veteran  rovers  of  the  mountains  look 
upon  their  horses  as  in  some  respects  gifted  with 
almost  human  intellect.  An  old  and  experienced 
trapper,  when  mounting  guard  about  the  camp  in 
dark  nights  and  times  of  peril,  gives  heedful  at- 
tention to  all  the  sounds  and  sii^ns  of  the  horses. 
No  enemy  enters  nor  approaches  the  camp  with- 
out attracting  their  notice,  and  their  movements 
not  only  give  a  vague  alarm,  but  it  is  said,  will 
even  indicate  to  the  knowing  trapper  the  very 
quarter  whence  danger  threatens. 

In  the  day-time,  too,  while  a  hunter  is  engaged 
on  the  prairie,  cutting  up  the  deer  or  buffalo  he 
has  slain,  he  depends  upon  his  faithful  horse  as 
a  sentinel.  The  sau^acious  animal  sees  and  smelh 
all  round  him,  and  by  his  starting  and  whiuny- 
hig,  gives  notice  of  the  a})proa(;h  of  strangers. 
There  seems  to  be  a  dumb  communion  and  fel- 
lowship, a  sort  of  fraternal  sympathy,  between 
the  hunter  and  his  horse.  They  mutually  rely 
upon  each  other  for  company  and  protection ; 
and  nothing  is  more  difficult,  it  is  said,  than  to 
surprise  an  experienced  hunter  on  the  prairie, 
while  his  old  and  favorite  steed  is  at  his  side. 

Montero  had  not  long  removed  his  camp  from 


;!'; 


Si 


492 


B  ONNE VILLETS  A D  VEN  T URES, 


\\\ 


r 

1  '      X 

H 

(ifS 

.1- 


I 


the  vicinity  of  the  Crows,  and  fixed  himself  in 
his  new  quarters,  when  the  Bhickfeet  marauders 
riscovered  his  cantonment,  and  beijan  to  haunt 
tlie  vicinity.  lie  kept  up  a  vi^ihint  watch,  how- 
ever, and  foiled  every  attempt  of  the  enemy, 
who,  at  length,  seemed  to  have  given  up  in  des- 
pair, and  abandoned  the  neighborhood.  The 
trappers  relaxed  their  vigilance,  therefore,  and 
one  night,  after  a  day  of  severe  labor,  no  guards 
were  posted,  and  tlie  whole  camp  was  soon 
asleep.  Towards  midnight,  however,  the  light- 
est sleepers  were  roused  by  the  tramijling  of 
hoofs  ;  and,  giving  the  alarm,  the  whole  party 
were  immediately  on  their  legs,  and  hastened  to 
the  pens.  The  bars  were  down  ;  but  no  enemy 
vas  to  be  seen  or  heard,  and  the  horses  being  all 
found  hard  by,  it  was  supposed  the  bars  had 
been  left  down  throuo^h  neo-liwnce.  All  were 
once  more  asleep,  when,  in  about  an  hour,  there 
was  a  second  alarm,  and  it  was  discovered  that 
several  horses  were  missing.  The  rest  were 
mounted,  and  so  spirited  a  pursuit  took  place, 
that  eighteen  of  the  number  carried  off  were  re- 
gained, and  but  three  remained  in  possession  of 
the  enemy.  Traps,  for  wolves,  had  been  set 
about  the  camp  the  preceding  day.  In  the 
morning,  it  was  discovered  that  a  Blackfoot  was 
entrapped  by  one  of  them,  but  had  succeeded  in 
dragging  it  off.  His  trail  was  followed  for  a 
long  distance,  which  he  must  have  limped  alone. 
At  length,  he  appeared  to  have  fallen  in  with 
eome  of  his  comrades,  who  had  relieved  him  from 
liis  painful  incumbrance. 


was    soon 


RETURN  TO   CIVILIZED  LIFE, 


493 


These  wer^^  the  leading  incidents  of  Montero's 
campaign  in  the  Crow  country.  The  united 
parties  now  celebrated  the  4th  of  July,  in  rough 
hunters'  style,  with  hearty  conviviality  ;  after 
which  Captain  Bonneville  made  his  final  arrange- 
ments. Leavini;  Monte ro  with  a  briijade  of 
trappers  to  open  another  campaign,  he  put  him- 
self at  the  head  of  the  residue  of  his  men,  and 
Bet  off  on  liis  return  to  civiHzed  life.  AVe  shall 
not  detail  his  journey  along  the  course  of  the 
Nebraska,  and  so,  from  point  to  point  of  the 
wilderness,  until  he  and  his  band  reached  tho 
frontier  settlements  on  the  22d  of  August. 

Here,  according  to  his  own  account,  his  caval- 
cade might  have  been  taken  for  a  procession  of 
tatterdemalion  savages ;  for  the  men  were  ragged 
almost  to  nakedness,  and  had  contracted  a  wild- 
ness  of  aspect  during  three  yoars  of  wandering 
m  the  wilderness.  A  few  hours  in  a  populous 
town,  however,  produced  a  magical  metamor- 
phosis. Hats  of  the  most  ample  brim  and  long- 
est nap  ;  coats  with  buttons  that  shone  like  mir- 
rors, and  pantaloons  of  the  most  ample  plenitude, 
took  place  of  the  well-worn  trapper's  equipments ; 
and  the  happy  wearers  might  be  seen  strolling 
about  hi  all  directions,  scattering  their  silver  like 
sailors  just  from  a  cruise. 

The  worthy  captain,  however,  seems  by  no 
means  to  have  shared  the  excitement  of  his  men, 
on  finding  himself  once  more  in  the  thronged 
resorts  of  civilized  life,  but,  on  the  contrary,  to 
have  looked  back  to  the  wilderness  with  regret. 
"  Though  the  prospect,"  says  he,  "  of  once  more 


404 


B  ON  ME  VILLHTS  A  D  VEN  TUBES. 


HI 


i   : 


f 


Himi 


tasting  the  blessings  of  peaceful  society,  uud  pass- 
ing (lays  and  nights  under  the  calm  guardianship 
of  the  laws,  was  not  without  its  attractions ;  yet 
to  those  of  us  whose  whole  lives  had  been  spent 
in  the  stirring  excitement  and  perpetual  watch- 
fulness of  adventures  in  the  wilderness,  the 
change  was  far  from  promising  an  increase  of 
that  contentment  and  inward  satisfaction  most 
conducive  to  happiness.  He  who.  like  myself, 
has  roved  almost  from  boyhood  among  the  chil- 
dren of  the  forest,  and  over  the  unfurrowed 
plains  and  rugged  heights  of  the  western  wastes, 
will  not  be  startled  to  learn,  that  notwithstand- 
inor  all  the  fascinations  of  the  world  on  this  civi- 
lized  side  of  the  mountains,  I  would  fain  make 
my  bow  to  the  splendors  and  gayeties  of  the  me- 
tropolis, and  {)lunge  again  amidst  the  hardships 
and  perils  of  the  wilderness." 

We  have  only  to  add,  that  the  affairs  of  the* 
captain  have  been  satisfactorily  arranged  with  the 
War  Department,  and  that  he  is  actually  in 
service  at  Fort  Gibson,  on  our  western  frontier ; 
wliere  we  hope  he  may  meet  with  further  o})por- 
tuiiities  of  indulging  his  peculiar  tastes,  and  of 
collecting  graphic  and  cliaracteristic  details  of  the 
great  YT'estern  wilds  and  their  motley  inhabitants. 


f  i. 


iM^  y 


I' 


^Vc  here  close  our  picturings  of  the  Rocky 
ISIountains  and  their  wilu  inhabitants,  and  of  tho 
wild  life  that  prevails  there ;  which  wo  have 
been  anxious  to  fii  ou   record,  b(?cause  we  are 


CONCL  UDING   RE  M A  RKS. 


405 


ad  pass- 
•(liauship 
ons ;  yet 
en  spent 
I  watcli- 
less,  the 
urease  of 
ion  most 
e  myself, 

the  (-hil- 
if arrowed 
•n  wastes, 
vithstaiid- 
[  this  civi- 
■•liu  make 
if  the  me- 

hardships 

s   oi  the- 

with  the 

ctually    in 

frontier ; 
ler  oppor- 

s.  and  of 
ails  of  the 

habitants. 


the  Rocky 
and  of  the 
wo  have 
ise  we  are 


awnr:.  tliat  this  siiiLriihir  state  of  tliiiiirs  is  fall  of 
matation,  and  must  soon  nndcrgo  great  change3, 
if  not  cntii'ely  pass  away.  The  fur  trade,  itself, 
which  has  given  life  to  all  this  portraitarc,  is 
essentially  evanescent.  Rival  parties  of  tra})pcrs 
soon  exhaust  the  streams,  es})ecially  when  com- 
petition renders  them  heedless  and  wasteful  of 
the  heaver.  The  fur-bearing  animals  extinct,  a 
com[)lete  change  will  come  over  the  scene  :  the 
gay  free  trapper  and  his  steed,  decked  out  in 
wild  army,  and  tinkling  with  bells  and  trink- 
etry ;  the  savage  war  chief,  plumed  and  painted, 
and  ever  on  the  prowl ;  the  traders'  cavalcade, 
winding  through  defiles  or  over  naked  plains, 
with  the  stealtliy  war  party  lurking  on  its  trail ; 
the  buffalo  chase,  the  hunting  camp,  the  mad 
carouse  in  the  midst  of  danger,  the  night  attack, 
the  stamj)ado,  the  scamper,  the  iierce  skirmish 
among  rocks  and  cliffs,  —  all  this  romance  of 
savage  life,  which  yet  exists  among  the  moun- 
tains, will  then  exist  but  in  frontier  story,  and 
seem  like  the  fictions  of  chivalry  or  fairy  tale. 

Some  new  system  of  things^  or  rather  some 
new  modification,  will  succeed  among  the  roving 
people  of  this  vast  wilderness ;  but  just  as  oppo- 
site, perhaps,  to  the  habitudes  of  civilization. 
The  great  Chippewyan  chain  of  mountains,  and 
the  sandy  and  volcanic  [)lains  which  extend  ou 
either  side,  are  represented  as  incapable  of  culti- 
vation. The  pasturage,  which  prevails  there 
during  a  certain  portion  of  the  year,  soon  with- 
ers under  the  aridity  of  the  atmosphere,  and 
leaves  nothing   but  dreary  wastes.     An   immense 


w 


496 


dONNKVILLtrS  ADVENTURES. 


i  >  ) 


livrn 


belt  of  rocky  mountains  and  volcanic  plains, 
several  hundred  miles  in  width,  must  ever  remain 
an  irreclaimable  wilderness,  intervenhig  between 
the  abodes  of  civilization,  and  affording  a  last 
refuge  to  the  Indian.  Here  roving  tribes  of 
hunters,  living  in  tents  or  lodges,  and  following 
the  migrations  of  the  game,  may  lead  a  life  of 
savage  independence,  where  there  is  nothing  to 
tempt  the  cupidity  of  the  white  man.  The 
amalgamation  of  various  tribes,  and  of  white 
men  of  every  nation,  will  in  time  produce  hybrid 
races  like  the  mountain  Tartars  of  the  Caucasus. 
Possessed  as  they  are  of  immense  droves  of 
horses,  should  they  continue  their  present  pred- 
atory and  warlike  habits,  they  may,  in  time,  be- 
come a  scourge  to  the  civilized  frontiers  on  either 
side  of  the  mountains  ;  as  they  are  at  present  a 
terror  to  the  traveller  and  trader. 

The  facts  disclosed  m  the  present  work,  clearly 
manifest  the  policy  of  establishing  mihtary  posts 
and  a  mounted  force  to  protect  our  traders  in 
their  journeys  across  the  great  western  wilds, 
and  of  pushing  the  outposts  into  the  very  heart 
of  the  singular  wilderness  we  have  laid  open,  so 
as  to  maintain  some  degree  of  sway  over  the 
country,  and  to  put  an  end  to  the  kind  of  "  black 
mail,"  levied  on  all  occasions  by  the  savage  "  chiv- 
alry of  the  mountams." 


:l 


c    plains, 
er  remain 

between 
ng  a  last 
tribes  of 

following 
a  life  of 
LO thing  to 
lu.       The 

of   white 
Lice  hybrid 

Caucasus, 
droves  of 
isent  pred- 
II  time,  be- 
s  on  either 
.  present  a 

ark,  clearly 
itary  posts 

traders  in 
tern  wilds, 

very  heart 
id  open,  so 
Y  over  the 
of  "  black 
vase  "  chiv- 


APPENDIX. 


NATHANIEL  J.   WYETU,  AND  THE  TRADE  OF  TUB  FAR 

WEST. 

Wk  have  brought  Captain  Bonneville  to  the  end 
of  his  western  campaigning ;  yet  we  cannot  close  this 
work  without  subjoining  some  particulars  concerning 
the  fortunes  of  his  contemporary,  Mr.  ^Vyeth ;  anec- 
dotes of  whose  enterj>rise  have,  occtisionally,  been 
interwoven  in  the  party-colored  web  of  our  narrative. 
Wyeth  eflected  his  intention  of  establishing  a  trad- 
ing post  on  the  Portneuf,  which  he  named  Fort  Hall. 
Here,  for  the  first  time,  the  American  flag  was  un- 
furled to  the  breeze  that  sweei>s  the  great  naked 
wastes  of  the  central  wilderness.  Leavinf;  twelve 
men  here,  with  a  sto'k  of  goods,  to  trade  with  the 
neighboring  tribes,  he  prosecuted  his  journey  to  the 
Columbia;  where  he  established  another  post,  called 
Fort  Williams,  on  Wappatoo  Island,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Wallamut.  Tiiis  was  to  be  the  head  factory 
of  his  company ;  whence  they  were  to  carry  on  their 
fishing  and  trapping  operations,  and  their  trade  with 
the  interior ;  and  where  they  were  to  receive  and 
di.«ipatch  their  annual  ship. 

The  plan  of  Mr.  Wyeth  appears  to  have  been  well 
concerted.  He  had  observed  that  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company,  the  bands  of  free  trappers,  as 
well  as  the  Indians  west  of  the  mountains,  depended 


> 


498 


APPENDIX. 


m 


^^': 


f  Mii'K 


for  tliclr  supplies  upon  g(X)(l8  broiiglit  from  St.  Louis; 
whicli,  in  consequence  of  tlic  expenses  and  risks  of 
a  loni'  land  carriniie,  Avere  iiu-nislied  them  at  an  ini- 
luense  advance  on  fii-st  cost.  lie  had  an  idea  tliat 
they  might  be  much  more  ciica])ly  snj)plled  from  tlie 
Pacific  side.  Horses  would  cost  mncii  less  on  tiie 
borders  of  tiie  Coknnbia  tiian  at  St.  Louis:  the  trans- 
portation by  land  was  much  shorter,  and  through  a 
country  much  more  jafe  from  the  hostility  of  savage 
tribes,  which,  on  tiie  route  i'rom  and  to  St.  Louis,  an- 
nually cost  tlie  lives  of  many  men.  On  this  idea,  he 
grounded  his  })lan.  He  combined  the  salmon  fishery 
witli  the  fur  trade.  A  fortified  trading  |X)st  was  to 
be  established  on  the  Columbia,  to  carry  on  ct  trade 
with  the  natives  for  salmon  and  peltries,  and  to  fish 
and  traj)  on  their  own  account.  Once  a  year,  a  ship 
was  to  come  from  the  United  States,  to  bring  out 
goods  for  the  interior  trade,  and  to  take  home  the 
salmon  and  furs  which  have  been  collected.  Part  of 
the  goods,  thus  brought  out,  were  to  be  dispatched  to 
the  mountains,  to  supply  the  trapping  companies  and 
the  Indian  tribes,  in  exchange  for  their  furs:  which 
were  to  be  brought  down  to  the  Columbia,  to  be 
sent  home  In  the  next  annual  ship :  and  thus  an  an- 
nual roimd  was  to  be  kept  up.  Tiie  j)rofits  on  the 
salmon,  it  was  expected,  would  cover  all  the  expenses 
of  the  ship ;  so  that  the  goods  brought  out,  and  the 
furs  carried  home,  would  cost  nothing  as  to  freight. 

His  enterprise  was  prosecuted  with  a  spirit,  intel- 
ligence, and  perseverance,  that  merited  success.  All 
the  details  that  we  have  met  with,  prove  him  to  be 
no  ordinary  man.  He  a]>pears  to  have  the  mind  to 
conceive,  and  the  energy  to  execute  extensive  and 
striking  plans.  He  had  once  more  reared  the  Amer- 
ican flag  in  the  lost  domains  of  Astoria;  and  had  he 
been  enabled  to  maintain  the  footing  he  bad  so  gal- 


APPENDIX. 


499 


lantly  efTDcted,  he  mi<:jht  liavc  rcfrainnd  for  his 
country  the  opulent  trade  of  the  Cohunbia,  of  which 
our  statesmen  have  negligently  suflered  us  to  be  dis- 
possessed. 

It  is  needless  to  go  into  a  detail  of  the  variety 
of  accidents  and  cross-purposes,  which  caused  the 
failure  of  his  scheme.  They  were  such  as  all  under- 
takings of  the  kind,  involving  combined  operations 
by  sea  and  land,  are  liable  to.  What  he  most 
wanted,  was  sulHcient  capital  to  enable  him  to  en- 
dure incipient  obstacles  and  losses;  and  to  hold  on 
until  success  had  time  to  spring  up  from  the  midst 
of  disastrous  experiments. 

It  is  with  extreme  regret  we  learn  that  he  has  re- 
cently been  com})elled  to  dis{)ose  of  his  establishment 
at  Wappatoo  Island,  to  tiie  Hudson's  Bay  Company  ; 
who,  it  is  but  justice  to  say,  have,  according  to  his 
own  account,  treated  him  throughout  the  whole  of 
his  enterprise,  with  great  fairness,  friendship,  and  lib- 
erality. That  company,  therefore,  still  maintains  an 
unrivaled  sway  over  the  whole  country  washed  by 
the  Columbia  and  its  tributaries.  It  has,  in  fact,  as 
far  as  its  chartered  powers  permit,  followed  out  the 
splendid  scheme  contemplated  by  Mr.  Astor,  when 
he  founded  his  establishment  at  thii  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  From  their  emporium  of  Vancouver, 
companies  are  sent  forth  in  every  direction,  to  supply 
the  interior  posts,  to  trade  with  the  natives,  and  to 
trade  upon  the  various  streams.  These  thread  the 
rivers,  traveree  the  plains,  penetrate  to  the  heart 
of  the  mountains,  extend  their  enterprise  northward, 
to  the  Russian  possessions,  and  southward,  to  the 
confines  of  California.  Their  yearly  supplies  are  re- 
velved  by  sea,  at  Vancouver;  and  thence  their  furs 
and  peltries  are  shipped  to  London.  They  likewise 
maintain    a  considerable   commerce,  in    wheat    and 


1 


w 

1 

■  1 

1 

b 

1 

'! 

■f 

1 

500 


APPENDIX. 


lumber,  with  the  Pacific  ishinds,  and  to  the  noiib, 
with  the  Kiissian  sctUements. 

Tliou<;h  the  company,  by  treaty,  have  a  riglit  to  a 
participation  only,  in  tlie  trade  ot*  these  re;rions,  and 
are,  in  fact,  but  tenants  on  suU'erance  ;  yet  have  they 
quietly  availed  themselves  of  the  original  oversij^ht, 
and  subsequent  supineness  of  the  Ajnerican  govern- 
ment, to  establish  a  monopoly  of  the  trade  of  the  river 
and  its  dependencies  ;  and  are  adroitly  proceeding  to 
fortify  themselves  in  their  usurpation,  by  securing  all 
the  strong  points  of  the  country. 

Fort  George,  originally  Astoria,  which  was  aban- 
doned on  the  removal  of  the  main  factory  to  Van- 
couver, was  renewed  in  1830  ;  and  is  now  kept  up  ;ia 
a  fortified  post  and  trading  house.  All  the  placea 
accessible  to  shipping  have  been  taken  possession  of, 
and  posts  recently  established  at  them  by  th«  com- 
pany. 

The  great  capital  of  this  cissociation  ;  their  long 
established  system ;  their  hereditary  influence  over 
the  Indian  tribes  ;  their  internal  organization,  which 
makes  everything  go  on  with  the  regularity  of  a  ma- 
chine ;  and  the  low  wages  of  their  people,  who  are 
mostly  Canadians,  give  them  great  advantages  over 
tl.e  American  traders  :  nor  is  it  likely  the  latter  will 
ever  be  able  to  maintain  any  footing  in  the  land,  un- 
til the  question  of  territorial  right  is  adjusted  between 
the  two  countries.  The  sooner  that  takes  place,  the 
better.  It  is  a  question  too  serious  to  national  pride, 
if  not  to  national  interest,  to  be  slurred  over ;  and 
every  year  is  adding  to  the  difficulties  which  envi- 
•on  it. 

The  fur  trade,  which  is  now  the  main  object  of  en- 
terprise west  of  the  Rocky  INIountains,  forms  but  a 
part  of  the  real  resources  of  the  country.  Beside  the 
lalmon  fishery  of  the  Columbia,  which  is  capable  of 


APPENDIX. 


501 


the  no^tti, 

right  to  a 
tiions,  and 
have  they 
ovursi^ht, 
m  govern- 
['  the  river 
ceeiling  to 
jcuring  all 

was  aban- 
y  to  Van- 
kept  up  iis 
the  phices 
issession  of, 
y  th«  coni- 

their  long 

lence  over 

ion,  which 

of  a  ma- 

who  are 

af»es  over 

hitter  will 

laud,  un- 

d  between 

place,  the 

onal  pride, 

over ;  and 

lich  envi- 

oct  of  en- 
•nis  but  a 
Beside  the 
capable  of 


being  rendered  a  considerable  source  of  profit ;  the 
great  valleys  of  the  lower  c(juntry,  below  the  elevated 
volcanic  plateau,  are  calculated  to  give  sustenance  to 
countless  flocks  and  herds,  and  to  sustain  a  great 
population  of  graziera  and  agriculturists. 

Such,  for  instance,  is  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Wallauiut ;  from  which  the  establislnnent  at  Van- 
couver draws  most  of  its  supplies.  Here,  the  com- 
pany holds  mills  and  farms  ;  and  has  provided  for  some 
of  its  superannuated  ollicers  and  servants.  This 
valley,  above  the  falls,  is  about  fifty  miles  wide,  and 
extends  a  creat  distance  to  the  south.  The  climate 
is  mild,  being  sheltered  by  lateral  ranges  of  mountains  ; 
while  the  soil,  for  richness,  \\\\a  been  e(]ualeii  to  the 
best  of  the  Missouri  lands.  The  valley  oftho  river 
Des  Chutes,  is  also  admirably  cahudated  for  a  great 
grazing  country.  All  the  best  horses  used  by  the 
company  for  the  mountains,  are  raised  Chere.  The 
valley  is  of  such  happy  temperature,  that  gnuss  grows 
there  throughout  the  year,  and  cattle  may  be  left  out 
to  pasture  during  the  winter.  These  valleys  must 
form  the  grand  ooints  of  commencement  of  the  future 
settleuient  of  the  country  ;  but  there  nmst  be  many 
such,  enfolded  in  the  embraces  of  these  lower  ranjres 
of  mountains,  which,  though  at  present  they  lie  waste 
and  uninhabited,  and,  to  the  eye  of  the  trader  and 
trap[)er,  present  but  barren  wastes,  would,  in  the 
hands  of  skillful  agriculturists  and  husbandmen,  soon 
assume  a  dilferent  aspect,  and  teem  with  waving 
crops,  or  be  covered  with  flocks  and  herds. 

The  resources  of  the  country,  too,  while  in  the 
hands  of  a  company  restricted  in  its  trade,  can  be  but 
partially  called  forth ;  but  in  the  hands  of  Americans, 
enjoying  a  direct  trade  with  the  East  Indies,  would 
oe  brought  into  quickening  activity,  and  might  soon 
realize  the  dream  of  Mr.  Astor,  in  giving  rl«e  to  a 
flourishing  :*.ommercial  empire. 


I  ■' 


^A 


wt 


m 


50f 


APPENDIX. 


WRECK    OP    A    .IAl»ANKSR    JUNK    ON    TIIR    N0IITIIWK3T 

COAST. 

TiiK  fc^llowiii;^  extract  of  a  letter  which  we  re- 
ceived, lately,  from  Mr.  Wyeth,  may  he  iriterestlii<^, 
as  throwing  some  liglit  upon  the  (|iu's(ion  ixa  to  the 
manner  in  which  America  has  Ijccii  |)eo})K'<l. 

"  Are  you  aware  of  the  fact,  tiiat  in  tlie  winter  of 
IS.'jy,  a  Japaru'st!  jimk  was  wrecked  on  tlie  nortliwcst 
coiLst,  in  the  nci;;hl)orhood  of  Queen  Cliarlotte's  Island; 
and  that  all  but  two  of  the  crew,  then  nuich  reduced 
by  starvation  an<l  disease,  duriii<]j  a  lon;jf  drift  across 
the  Pacific,  were  killed  by  the  natives  ?  TIk^  two  fell 
into  the  hands  ol'  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com[)any  and 
were  sent  to  England.  I  saw  them,  on  my  arrival 
at  Vancouver,  iu  1831." 


INSTRUCTIONS  TO  CAPTAIN  RONNKVILIiK  FROM 
MA.IOR-OKNKRAL  COMMANDING  THE  ARMY  OF 
UNITED  STATES. 


TliB 
TllK 


IJend-qmirfers  of  l/ie  Ann//.  ) 
Washixo TON,  August  3,  1831.  ) 

Sir,  —  The  leave  of  absence  which  you  have  asked, 
fortius  purpose  of  enabling  you  to  carry  into  execution 
your  design  of  exploring  the  country  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  bevond,  with  a  view  of  ascertainiuii 
the  nature  and  character  of  the  several  tribes  of 
Indians  inhabitino"  those  rcffions  ;  the  trade  which 
might  be  profitably  cari-ied  on  with  them  ;  the  qual- 
ity of  the  soil,  the  productions,  the  minerals,  the 
natural  history,  the  climate,  th(i  geography  and  topo- 
graphy, as  well  cis  geology,  of  the  various  })art.s  of  the 
country  wllhin  the  limits  of  the  territories  belon<j;in2 
to  the  United  States,  between  our  frontier  and  the 
Pacilic,  —  has  been  duly  considered  and  submitted  to 


APPESDIX. 


r)03 


NORTIIWKST 

lil(,li  we  re- 
interesting, 
:)n   JW  to  the 
le<l. 

:ie  winter  of 
ic  northwest 
otte's  Ishuul; 
nu'h  rethiced 
;r  (h'ift  aeross 
The  two  fell 
lon»[)any  and 
n  uiy  arrival 


\     FROM     TUB 
IMY     OF     TilK 

thd  Armif.  1 
St  '^,  1831.  S 

II  have  asked, 
nto  execution 
to  the  Rocky 
f  ascertainlnf; 
ral    tribes  of 
trade  which 
im  ;    the  qual- 
minerals,    the 
pliy  and  topo- 
is  ])arts  of  the 
'ies   belonging 
ntier  and  the 
i  submitted  to 


the   War  Department    for    aj)prova1,  and    has    l>cen 

d  to  be  ab 


d. 


gancttoned.  I  on  are,  thoreloi'e,  aiitrionzini  to  he  aiH 
Ht'iit  from  the  arniv  until  October,  18.33.  If  is  under- 
nt(M)d  that  tlie  j^overnment  is  to  Ikj  at  no  ex[KM);<e  in 
reference  to  your  proposed  exj>edition,  it  having  t^rij*- 
inated  with  yourself ;  and  all  that  you  re«|uired  was 
tiie  perniission  from  the  proper  authority  to  under- 
take the  enterprise.  You  will,  naturally,  in  pn-parin;» 
yourself  for  the  expedition,  provide  suitable  in.-itru- 
ments,  and  esjMjcially  the  best  n»ap8  of  the  interior  to 
be  found. 

It  is  desirable,  l>csldi.''  what  is  enumerated  as  the 
objet't  of  your  enterprise,  that  you  note  particularly 
the  number  of  warrioi-s  that  mav  Ix;  in  each  trilxj  or 
nation  that  you  may  nuiet  with  ;  their  alliances  with 
other  tribes,  and  their  relative  |)osition  as  to  a  state 
of  peace  or  war,  and  whether  their  friendly  or  warlik«3 
dis|)ositions  towards  each  other  are  recent  or  of  lon;^ 
standing.  You  will  gratily  us  by  describing  their 
maimer  of  making  war  :  of  the  mode  of  sul^istinij 
themselves  during  a  state  of  war,  and  a  state  of  j)eace  ; 
their  arms,  and  the  eflect  of  them;  whether  they  act 
on  foot  or  on  hoiseback  ;  detailing  the  discipline  and 
mancuvere  of  the  war  ])arties  ;  the  jwwer  of  their 
horses,  size,  and  general  dt^cription  ;  in  short,  every 
information  which  you  may  conceive  would  be  useful 
to  the  government. 

Y^ou  will  avail  yourself  of  every  opportunity  of  in- 
forming us  of  your  position  and  progress,  and  at  the 
expiration  of  your  leave  of  absence,  will  join  youi 
proper  station. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  Sir, 
Your  obt.  servant. 

ALEXANDER  MACOMB, 
Major-  General,  comniandiny  the.  Army 

Capt.  B.  L.  E.  BoNNEVILLK, 

Ilk  liegt.  oflnjunlnj,  Ntw    York. 


